Forum

Richardson/Southampton Smoke Generator

Hello: My Hobby Engine Richardson tugboat is a “premium” model with a factory-installed smoke system. Unfortunately, the instruction manual has no information whatsoever about the smoke system; not a single word. With a lot of generously given advice & help from Doug (RNinMunich) & other Model Boats members, I’m working on upgrading the tug’s lighting system & adding missing details. Unfortunately everything came to a halt last fall because of a fall & surgery to fix me up. So, for the time being I’m doing things that don’t require much finesse for fine work. I’m working on plans for future work as well as disassembled the tug’s deckhouse to access its circuit board. Once I had the deckhouse floor removed, I discovered that the smoke system isn’t a single unit. There’s a blower motor mounted in one location & the component that creates the smoke mounted in another spot. Tubing connects these two parts, then additional tubing exits the smoke generator unit & splits via a tee to each funnel. If anyone reading this post has a Richardson or Southampton “premium” model I would greatly appreciate information about the following: 1. There is a black rubber plug underneath the deckhouse. When the plug is removed I can see that it’s directly below the smoke generator. I noticed that the generator has white foam rubber inside. Is this where smoke fluid is to be placed? If not, then where? 2. Assuming there are different types of smoke fluid available, which one should be used in the tug? 3. How many drops of fluid should be placed in the system? I would appreciate any information about the Richardson or Southampton smoke system specifically & smoke systems in general. I’m not familiar with them at all & I need to learn. Thanks very much, Pete

5 years ago by PittsfieldPete

Forum

New Smoke Generators

HI to all, I hope everyone had a good Christmas... I have started a new line of smoke generators here In Australia, At the moment I have 2 sizes available and more on the drawing board. These new units will run on 12 volts and draw about 1 amp using oil based fluid. Two Sizes SG-1 80 x 45 x 50mm outlet 1/2" This unit Is design for the smaller craft or small spaces a neat little unit that performs great runs for 25mins on 1 fill of the tank (25mls) $65.00 SG-2 100 x 65 x 60mm outlet 1/2" Designed for the larger boats with a bigger tank and more powerful fan unit runs for 40min on 1 fill of the tank (35mls) $75.00 Both smoke generators can be connected directly to your power supply or to your motor for control of the fan speed ( Just need to make sure your speed controller can handle the extra power) you can set It up for 1 stack or 2 with 1/2" copper pipe fittings from your local Hardware shop.. Kit Includes : 1 x Smoke generator 1 x Smoke fluid (100mls) 1 x wire (300mm) 1 x nuts & washers Check out the short clip of the smoke generator SG-1 at youtube http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g3vpE0-ovlA or on my website www.modelboatsandfittings.com email: *Removed, PM Only - Admin*

13 years ago by shane

Blog

Smoker Update!

Today I had to decide whether to send the smoker. I purchased almost two weeks ago! Which I am because it doesn't smoke like it's contra part! So, I called Harbor Models Spoke with Nick. I told him how it wasn't really smoking! He agreed so come this Friday morning. I'll be shipping it out to be looked at! Now the 12 volt smoker works like a charm! A very good unit I might say!

5 years ago by figtree7nts

Blog

Build Finalized

Hello, Finally put some finishing touches on my Rescue Vessel BUILD. Added rubber bumpers to assist in rescuing at bow and stern. Removed the smoker unit as these was complicating the build and was against one of my original objectives....Keep it Simple! Overal all I am pleased with is build, it was fun, quick and built mostly with scraps and parts on hand. The Springer Tug design is a great starter design and can be easily modified to personal tastes. I recommend this to those out there to get some initial or just more experience at building. it's fun! Joe

5 years ago by Joe727

Response

Fan Surround

Michael, Thank you for your interest and the questions, I appreciate it. 1. With regard to the rubber stopper, good question. I have not done a lengthy test as yet, but will do. My thinking was that it would not effect the rubber as heat generated seems to be concentrated on the oil. I like the idea of a a metal cap, you have given me an idea, I have some small plumbing pieces that may work. it would be good to eliminate all flammable materials! 2. Varying the smoker with the engine speed has not been one of my goals, here is my thinking. I plan to use this unit on a steam tug, steam boilers seem to put out a constant smoke as the burning does not vary on a steam engine, the steam is just regulated. Hence, I have not done this, many commercial units offer this. I recently purchased a commercial unit for over $100 USD and was not happy with the output, that is why I started this build. From my video you can see how the smoke shoots out. I wanted to slow it down so it just puffs. I have experimented with lowering the fan voltage, but it cuts out below 3 volts. The attached sketch shows my experimenting with allowing some of the air from the fan to npbe redirected out. The tin that I soldered up is shown, took a lot of effort, did not work as planned. I did like the fact that it looked like a whiskey still. 3. Yes, there are smaller fans available on line. I was just using some salvage ones I had - 28mm square. I may experiment with some small fans if budget allows. I am now retired and counting pennies... More on the puffing aspect to come... Joe

5 years ago by Joe727

Forum

Smoke generator

Thank you for the responses! The mention of asbestos brings back the memories of school labs, we all handled the stuff, an amazingly durable material, too bad it has side effects. Will try different smoke fluid mixes once I get a unit built, it's on the list of projects ongoing. Joe

5 years ago by Joe727

Media

Modified Heng Long smoker unit

This is a first try at a simpler quieter . I used the smoker box/element off the Heng Long tank/car smoker unit with a 40x40 5v fan (the fan being voltage controlled by a 5v UBEC and the lot being run by a 2s Lipo (with a y splitter for the fan UBEC and the element using JST leads. Doesn't smoke that well as I had broken then repaired the element previously, but the other one I have smokes a lot better, and has a better type of element (possibly a newer version) Some photos etc on the smoker discussion. Unit is almost silent (the noise you hear is the camera and outside noise, as the window was open)

5 years ago by jbkiwi

Forum

Smoke generator

Have just made a prototype of a fan forced smoker which seems to be working well (despite breaking the heater coil by moving it while hot, - had it apart, broke wire, screw and washer repair, not quite as hot) I bought a couple of Heng Long smokers (for R/C tanks or cars) to play with, for $10 NZ each(or 5.3 Euros to you Northerners give or take a yen) from Bangood and just bought another from Ebay. There seem to be 2 different models, as one has a long coil with a lamp wick draped over it, which is sitting in the oil reservoir, the other has a small coil inside a piece of heat resistant woven tubing (as you might find insulating toaster/heater wiring etc) which acts as a wick and that also sits in cotton wool in the reservoir, (this seems to be the better of the two) Tip - don't fill the tank right up, only enough to soak the cotton, element should be just out of the oil. The wick loads the element. The better model seems to have a black top to the tank (also maybe either brown or black tank) and the other has a brown top and dirty brown tank. As with most of this stuff you won't know till you get it what it's going to be. What I did was remove the tank and cut off the pump tube just in front of the screw lugs (see black line in photo) then fitted the tank, and a 40x40x10 5v ESC fan (voltage controlled by a UBEC set to 5v on the jumpers) into a plastic electronics utility box from Jaycar (our local electronics and hobby store). I made up a double JST lead for the 2s 1800Mah Lipo and fired it up (using baby oil). it's pretty much silent and smokes well once it gets warmed up, ( starts smoking in about 5 seconds) You could control it (on/off volume) by either a remote on/off switch or perhaps a small cheap 10A brushed ESC. I would leave the fan running and control the element to avoid burning the element. The original pump tank inlet hole seems ok as is (approx 1.5mm) but you could enlarge it very slightly to get a better flow if you could find a better oil. At the electronics store they have proper smoke machine oil for $20 NZ per litre so I may have a look at that. The reason I went for the fan idea was that I found in std pump form, if I immersed a tube from the tank in water, it sucked water back into the tank. I was hoping it would pump smoke out of my HSL exhausts at water level alongside the cooling water but it would need a very light non return valve to do this. The fan seems to pump the smoke through 2mm ID silicone tube ok, so tubing of similar ID to the OD of the tank outlets should work well. These pumps in original form work pretty well for the price, and are cheap enough to keep a few for spare elements, the only thing is they are a bit noisy but in an 'engine sounding' way, (might add to the effect on a tug or work-boat though) What you have left after this mod is a very handy little geared motor with an eccentric output wheel which could be used for winches, radar and whirly bits of any description (see pic of motor leftover and original) To avoid burnout, these should be run on no more than a 2s (around 7.5v-(suggest 8v max with fan running) The other tank is going to work a lot better than this one but I'm not making a tug, just want a bit of exhaust smoke on start-up etc to go with the 2 sound units. Very cheap to make (around $25 NZ with pump, box, fan and UBEC all through Ebay, Aliexpress and Bangood (and local electronics store) if you wanted to run an ESC to control the smoke and you have no channels left to control it proportionally, you can always try using a second receiver bound to your TX, (if your TX will allow it,) power it and a brushed ESC (wired to the element) as normal and use the throttle channel to plug in your smoke control. This should work if you want more smoke as you accelerate or if you are using only 1 stick on a 2 stick TX you could use your 'elevator' stick pushed up (or a toggle switch if available) to start/stop the smoke (through the brushed ESC setup) . This setup weighs 100g (10g more than std) The quest for lots of smoke continues Will try to upload vid later and update progress.

5 years ago by jbkiwi

Forum

Smoke generator

A bit of confusion over what i wrote last night (note to self dont mix the internet with rum) I did not use a piezo unit, I used ultrasonic units, the kind that are fitted to fire places to produce the smoke and flame effect. The water depth seems to be the critical factor in the amount of mist produced. I am not looking for masses of dark smoke just enough to simulate diesel exhaust. This was just a prototype that works quite well but I am going to revisit it and try to improve the output and look for an ultrasonic unit that will work at 12v

5 years ago by marlina2

Forum

Smoke generator

I have made a smoke generator using a piezo transducer and a P68s variable speed brush less fan controller from action electroncs. The transducers tend to be 24v dc and are relatively cheap (£2-£3 each). I am using S3 lipos so I only have 11.4 available but a very cheap variable output unit gives me 24v. The fan is connected in-between the receiver channel for the throttle and the speed controller. The fan speed increases with the throttle and follows the throttle speed regardless of direction. The net effect is quite pleasing for diesel exhaust simulation, with a steady stream when the stick is centralised and the fan just idling. On fwd/rev throttle movement you get an increasing amount of exhaust dependent on speed. I have this installed in my Forceful paddler with twin funnels. The effect is quite realistic but can be difficult to see. I am looking for a another transducer that will produce more vapour. in its present configuration it will run for around 3 hours before topping up is required.

5 years ago by marlina2

Forum

Smoke generator

Hi Dick, It's a small smoker. So, I figure it probably smokes for about 45-1 hour! The one I have. smokes for 3 hours. On one fill of smoker liquid! But maybe you can call Cornwall Model Boats. And ask some questions! 01840 211009 Cornwall Model Boats Ltd Unit 3B, Highfield Rd ind Est, Camelford, Cornwall, PL32 9RA, United Kingdom. Cheers, Ed

5 years ago by figtree7nts

Forum

Steam whistle sound with smoke

Just pondering how one would set up and sincrconize a simulated steam whistle. Since I’m not running on steam I could use smoke from my and of course a steam sound module. Any ideas as how To do this? My thought was using the RAM ship whistle which works with a micro switch. One servo would control both the whistle and at the same time release squeezing off neoprene tubing would allow smoke to issue out the whistle. Anyone thoughts on this would be appreciated.

6 years ago by Mikep

Media

Sterling American Scout

American Scout C2 cargo ship power MACK 3-1 drive 12 volt 2 x 6 volt 3000 mah batteries. Harbor model weighs 15 lbs.

6 years ago by Mikep

Forum

LED Tug Mast Navigation Lights

When I had another try at the big hatch it came right off easily. I think it was a bit stuck on the gasket. The push-to-release latch is really something; a 50/50 blend of wow & ridiculous. it’s an impressive mechanism but it’s also seriously over-designed. The battery hatch under the pilot house has a simple quarter-turn catch to hold it shut while the aft hatch has a fancy spring-loaded push button release assembly. Doesn’t make much sense, really. My boat has a piece of foam in the bilge, too, but I’m reluctant to remove it. Although it’s no use for flotation my theory is that it may serve two purposes. First, it might be there for sound dampening. Those two big motors & their reduction gears make a lot of noise in that large void surrounded by stiff plastic. Second, any seepage through the stuffing boxes would be absorbed by the foam & keep bilge water away from the motors. Those are my thoughts but I could be way off. The Richardson does indeed have different electronics compared to some of the other Hobby Engine tugs. it’s got working interior & exterior lighting, horn & s, plus it has a 2.4ghz transmitter & receiver, which is a nice feature in that it does away with a mast-style antenna. That’s the main reason I chose my boat; I don’t know enough about R/C models to be able to say if 2.4ghz actually performs any better than 27mhz. Anyway, thanks again for the excellent advice. I learned more about my boat without breaking it. Outstanding!

6 years ago by PittsfieldPete

Directory

(Tug Boat) SATURN

Fold down funnel, hunter , lights (Motor: Mfa) (ESC: Mtronik) (10/10)

6 years ago by kimbo

Directory

(Tug Boat) H.M.S. Attentif W68

I think that this is a Assurance class Tug of world war two vintage, It has tank steering, sound unit and a water vapor , H.M.S ATTENTIF W68 French Naval Tug. Allocated SNO Portland for towing Bombardons. Built 1938 Forges et Chantiers de la Gironde, Bordeaux. L114.75’. B27.75’. 672grt. 1000ihp 3cylTE steam engine. Armament 1x20mm AA, 2xMG. 1938 Delivered to French Navy. 19-6-1940 Arrived Plymouth. 3-7-1940 Seized and Req by RN. 9-1940 Based Devonport. 0-1940 Based at Aberdeen. 1-1941 Based at Milford Haven. 2-1941 – 1942 Based Aberdeen . 1942 – 1944 Based at Harwich. 5-1944 - 1945 Based Portsmouth. 6-1944 Towed 30ton crane 1206 Cardiff to Plymouth. 5-6-1945 Released from Overlord tug pool. 7-8-1945 Returned to French Navy, pennant A671. 1946-7 Renamed Locmine. 6-3-1964 Laid up at Brest. The Bombardons were large 200 ft (61 m) by 25 ft (7.6 m) cross-shaped floating breakwaters fabricated in steel that were anchored outside the main breakwaters that consisted of Gooseberries (scuttled ships) and Phoenixes (concrete caissons). 24 bombardon units, attached to one another with hemp ropes, would create a 1 mi (1.6 km) breakwater. During the storms at the end 1944 some Bombardons broke up and sank while others parted their anchors and drifted down onto the harbours, possibly causing more damage (5/10)

6 years ago by Fred

Blog

Smoke Generator!

Received my smoke generator in today's post. Haven't had the opportunity to test it yet! Also need 5/8" brass tubing. To run up the stack! I had ordered some 5/8" plastic tubing. But I don't like it. it's all curved up don't like at all! Note: I used 1/4" piece of wood dowel. To hold the clear hose that's used for the smoker! It worked really nice! and has practically no weight what so ever!

6 years ago by figtree7nts

Forum

Seuthe Smoke Generator

Hi Ballast The unit needs to be mounted vertically inside or under the smoke stack, with access to allow you to top up the smoke fluid into the unit. Current draw is about 2-3 amps so you will either need a relay/microswitch driven by a servo or electronic switch capable of switching 3 amps to switch it on or off. You will need a spare channel on your Rx to operate, preferably one controlled by a switch on the tx. You can use the main battery but it will reduce your running time because of the high current. You will need a 6v unit if you wish to use your existing battery.

6 years ago by Dave M

Response

RSS P71 Sovereignty

Many thanks for the Turnigy tip👍 much cheaper than the 20 quid Action /Component Shop version 😉 I hated wasting channels, and multi-channel sets were horrendously expensive😡 so many many 🤔 moons ago I made my own 4 function switch decoder for my destroyer, home made PCB, a few 5V CMOS chips, driver transistors and 5V 5Amp relay outputs. Pics 1, 2 & 3. Gave 4 functions Nav lights, Signal Lamps flashing, Whoop Whoop siren, and from one proportional channel. Still seems to work 30 years later!😊 Around the same time I added a winch for the crane on the stern deck and also made a home cooked PCB with a simple forwards / backwards motor driver; again CMOS chips, driver TRs and relays. Pics 4 & 5. Pulled in well but there was no free-run mode on the winch so it needed something like a tin o' beans on the hook to run it out 🤔 . Lovely smelly etching for the PCBs 😆 Ferrous oxide!? Or was it ferric chloride? Never did like chemistry, I was a physics man. But it worked😊 Most of the bits were sort of 'lying around' at work😉 BTW: if anyone needs CMOS or 7400 series TTL chips I still have pretty good stock! Nowadays it's all plug n play and such things are miniaturising so fast one day they'll disappear up there own whatsits! Back then half the fun was doing it yourself and squeezing the utmost out of a 2 or 4 channel radio. Happy days? 🤔 Cheers Doug (AKA Rambling Man😁)

7 years ago by RNinMunich

Blog

Hobby Engine 'Richardson' Tug Upgrade

This is the beginning of a ‘diary’ of events. it involves a small Tug, the Hobby Engine Richardson and my attempts to improve its performance. This is my first attempt at such a project and would not have been possible without the assistance of certain members of this site. For those not familiar with this model here are the basic details......... Pic1&2 At 1/32 scale ( 1 metre = 31.25mm; 1 inch = 2 feet 8 inches), it has a Length of 54cm (21.25 inches) beam 17cm (6.75inches) height to radio aerial top 37cm (14.5inches) and weight at 1924grams (4.5 lbs) with standard battery and fittings. It comes with 2.4 digital radio, 7.2v 800mAh rechargeable battery and charger. Features include:- Twin 280 motors, functioning internal lights, external lights, smoke and horn. So some (such as Rallyst) have quite rightly said “Why change it”? My answer is that I can never ‘leave well alone’ , that I found the transmitter controls rather ‘rough’, the battery life too short, the horn sound very weak and the smoke almost non existent. Plus the fact that it has been reported elsewhere that the steering when going astern was very hit and miss. So I started to take it apart! Pic3 It is easy to remove the Wheelhouse by sliding the dark grey locker at the front of the wheelhouse/bridge and the stairway. Once the unit is released, the white electrics connector underneath can be difficult and needs very gentle prising with a small screw driver. The other two plugs come easily. This is where members ‘Jarvo’ and ‘RNinMunich’ came to my aid............. However, some of the screws are obvious but others have been well hidden. They are to be found under some of the fittings on the deck. Pic4,5,6,7. The next move will be to remove the deck, but that is for next week. What am I hoping to achieve.....well from zero knowledge I would like to have engine sound connected to the throttle control, good horn sound, better control of steering when going astern and a six channel receiver with new transmitter that feels good to use!

7 years ago by NPJ

Forum

Smoke Generator (Water Vapour type)

I recently required a smoke generator (ultrasonic Type) it is not in working order but I have rigged it up to test and bypassed the circuit board powered by 2 X 12 volt batteries and managed to get the vapourising unit to function, and the 12 volt fan motor with a separate supply to also work. With some work to replace the 12v to 24v converter CN6009 it should satisfactory. This unit appears to be a DIY job but very similar to MMB Foggy Smoke Generator which is available. Note the component required CN6009 I have sourced on ebay. Soon as it arrives I will set it up and test its suitability for a 1/24 scale TID tug boat model I am building. Problem might be size of smoke generator and other components required to fit in the hull in addition to a 12 volt 9ah battery scooter battery, there aint much space. There are smaller smoke generators available which burn oil (fan powered) which I have in one of my other models (Blazer Tug Boat) which is OK with no wind and close up but at any distance hard to detect if any smoke is being produced. The Oil recommend for this unit is Baby Oil which smells OK but I have wondered if I could use another oil based fluid which would produce more smoke (Any suggestions)?

7 years ago by andyhynes

Forum

CLYDE PUFFER

For sale is my Clyde puffer 1/24 scale approx , 33"long and a beam of 9", f/g hull, it is similar to the Mountfleet Highlander fitted with motor and ESC also a simple smoke😁 unit , needs a little tidying up , cash on collection only, *****now sold ***

7 years ago by agoodboater

Forum

working well now. I got a new diaphragm from the maker marksmodelbits.com who sent it to me free of charge, so thanks all that tried to help.

8 years ago by tidtug

Forum

The diaphragm or whatever you call it has packed up on my smoke machine is there a way to fix it or do I buy another one?

8 years ago by tidtug

Forum

WE used bits cut from cycle inner tubes Easy to cut with scissors 😎

8 years ago by onetenor

Forum

You can get replacemnet diaphrams from garden centres and aquatic firms they are used in pond misters. Cheers Max

8 years ago by MAXTON

Forum

HI Tid, can you see how to get inside the smoker?? could be just a small piece of rubber like material to cut and re-fit, if not put some detail piccies and lets have a look Mark

8 years ago by jarvo

Directory

(Working Vessel) Clyde Puffer ''Boozer''

Bought many years ago from Martin Models at E Port spring show. Swapped with a friend who built the model. Now back in my possession following his death. Uses three internal tanks for water ballast plus about 1lb lead to bring to waterline. Has a Tomahawk and smells like the real thing. Very stable on the water and looks the part. (Motor: Car Fan Motor) (ESC: Mtronic) (8/10)

8 years ago by Dave M

Forum

Smoke Generator

This is the in Imara. Standard toilet type overflow pipe. Unfortunately to get to the funnel it requires a long length which may cause some "smoke" to condense on warm days. But cold days its quite effective. "Model smoke effect.com. The case for the unit is 3D printed apparently (useless information I know) 😎

8 years ago by Derek

Forum

Smoke Generator

looking around I found this https://www.modelboatsmoke.com/ The unit I checked on uses 200ml of water that will weigh app 200gms or just over 7 oz. Looking at the size of the unit provided your stable with the unit full using the water will only lower the CofG so making your model more stable.

8 years ago by Haverlock

Forum

Smoke Generator

I was looking on ebay (Model Boat Smoke Effect Unit V1 12v - Uses Water (No Oil / Smoke Fluid)

8 years ago by martinsperring070558

Forum

Smoke Generator

The Steam Master Unit uses water which is vaporised by an ultrasonic nebuliser. it looks very effective and draws a reasonably low current. For both of my models, I built my own tank from styrene to suit the size and shape of my model. it comes supplied with 20mm dia discharge piping. One of my models had a 13mm dia funnel discharge. This cuts down on the flow (but still looks effective) but also requires a conical reducer from 20 to 13mm to make it work. Another model has the Harbor Models oil-filled . it has a 1/2" discharge, a small tank, and draws 3A. I have not come across a unit which uses glycol, but would be interested to learn about one. Roy

8 years ago by Trillium

Media

Wahine

Wahine was a car passenger ferry of the Union Steamship Co. of New Zealand, and completed by Fairfields in 1966. She was lost in a major storm in the Cook Strait in 1968 with the death of 53 people. The model is substantially scratch-built with some fittings purchased. it is driven by two Graupner Speed 500 motors powered from two 6.6V 3200mAh LiFe batteries. it is fitted with twin stern and a single bow rudders, and bow and stern thrusters as on the original. The smoke effect is provided by a Steam Master Unit.

8 years ago by Trillium

Directory

(Working Vessel) glenross

scratch built puffer 1;24 scale with smoke generator and technobots sound unit (Motor: graupner) (ESC: viper) (8/10)

8 years ago by miketom

Response

Queen

In between the & motor,there are two pass (8.4v & 12v)

8 years ago by skegness

Response

Queen lifeboat

Fitted with a (water)

8 years ago by skegness

Media

Queen lifeboat

This was a static model, that the gentleman I got it off had it for two years and when I asked why don't you put it in a box his reply was the box would be to high at 36" so I said to him is it radio control,NO static model only but can be converted,so I brought it and also showed him that if you move the tube slider on the mast it folds(one unhappy chappy),so I set about radio controlling it with a (water) and it gets quite a bit of attention at shows because it's different,the model is based on the Queen from new Brighton 1897-1923

8 years ago by skegness

Blog

Trawler D.728

im fitting

9 years ago by Mataroa

Forum

Smoke generator

HI Bob Its designed for 24v and using a lower voltage may not work. Component Shop stock a small unit that converts 12v to 24v and I used one to repair a friends 24v so I know it works. You could use a separate small12v battery in series with your main battery. The unit doesn't need much current so you could use pencells. I seem to recall 24v worth of pencells being recommended at one of the shows I attended. Dave

9 years ago by Dave M

Directory

(Naval Ship) HMCS Flower Class Corvette

Plastic convention 1-72 scale. Good little boat and fantastic on indoor pools. I have put a and sound unit in too (Motor: MFA 400) (ESC: Mtroniks ) (8/10)

9 years ago by Spitfire99

Blog

EMPRESS QUEEN ISLE OF MAN STEAM PACKET

1. Some of the deck detail and access to down under. Stanchions again from Display Models in Northumberland 2. Paddle motors in place and wired up. 12volt 7AH battery and fuse holder also on view. 3 The rudder servo in place. Close inspection you will see the gearing up of the rudder to provide a bigger rudder shift from the servo. Although this was not really necessary as individual control of the paddles made steering very good. 4. The Viper speed controllers.Also an added micro switch to control the home made . Close inspection again yo will see the backs of the multi- port holes covered with hot-glue to provide waterproofing.

10 years ago by MAXTON

Media

Mona's Isle

This is the fifth of the six sisters of the isle of Man Steam Packet Company, entered service in 1952 and scrapped in 1980. it is built on a Metcalf Models hull, and the superstructure is scratch-built from styrene. Fittings are a mix of scratch and purchased. it is powered by 2 Electronize motors with 2 ESC's by EA Electronics, has a from Harbor Models controlled by a Viper ESC, a sound system from Model Sounds inc of Ontario, and powered by NiMH batteries. it is also fitted with a working bow rudder and lights, all controlled from a Robbe F14 Navy radio fitted with 2 twin sticks. Preferred sailing location is Lake Lisgar in Tillsonburg, Ontario.

10 years ago by Trillium

Directory

(Working Vessel) IOM Steam Packet Snaefell

Scratch built on a commercial hull from Scale Hobbies in Skelmersdale. Home made "masters" for fittings; duplicates moulded in white metal by Steve from Scale Hobbies. Model took about 4 months to build and uses plasticard for the upper superstructure. Working bow rudder, , home made sound unit for triple steam horn. Working anchor. Deck lights and nav lights all functional. (Motor: johnston) (ESC: viper) (9/10)

10 years ago by MAXTON

Forum

S

Hi! Paul, I am afraid, I can't go to SHMBC as I am already committed to the Hoylake Clubs Open Day, but wish you every success at your do. I am doing Haydock if you are at that one and also Woodvale Transport Fest in Victoria Park with the Southport Club. Yes the elusive black smoke seems to have got us all beat. One of the Old New Brighton Club members said it was easy and I bet him £50 he couldn't do it, I am still waiting!! I use glycerine and water mix now as it smokes at a lower temp, as you say disco fluid is OK as well. Cheers Max

10 years ago by MAXTON

Forum

S

I have spent many years developing various types of s. The first photo shows the what I have ended up with, this Is built around a 2"x3"x1" plastic box, a 22mm plastic plumbing pipe end and a minI fan unit. Inside Is fibreglass roof Insulation wadding and a small electric element from old hair dryers and the like. The fibreglass wadding Is soaked In Glycerine and water mix 70% /30%. These can be made In either a 6 or 12 volt version. the bits are obtained from the TINTERNET. This produces a non toxic vapour at a far lower temperature than the oil types I used to make. The white box (last photo) shows the water vapour type which used a pond mister but these have a short life and require 24 volts for the mister. I stopped doing them. The others are just old cigar tubes etc. filled with wadding and a small element Inside but they get hot Inside the funnel and these also are no longer made by me. I still have not discovered a method to produce BLACK smoke so If any body has any Ideas???? I have had a top PHD on this problem but unless you are on the RED ARROWS team I think Its a NO NO!.

10 years ago by MAXTON

Forum

S

HI Max, my "Orca" you did is still working fine, (6 yrs old?)I just give it a once a year service, changing the matting etc, but I think its due an update, so next time we meet we can discuss (are you going to the SHMBC day this sunday?) I run it on a mix of disco fog fluid and baby oil. I have discussed the black smoke with numerous chemists, but cannot produce it. I have tried carbon, baby oil, power steering fluid, disco smoke fluid, old oil, new oil, various cooking oils, food colourings, etc etc etc!

10 years ago by pmdevlin

Blog

Wallasey III Mersey Ferry

1. You will notice a round hole behind the central cab where the funnel is to go. it was at this stage I decided to fit the sound unit here instead of my updated s. 2. The sound unit. 3. The sound unit fitted. 4. The alternative small home made fitted at the top end of the funnel.

10 years ago by MAXTON

Response

Wallasey III Mersey Ferry

Thanks Paul. Yes it will be fitted with my latest type of , fan assisted with glycerine and water mix for the vapour. Runs a lot cooler than the old oil type. Cheers Max

10 years ago by MAXTON

Response

Wallasey III Mersey Ferry

great work Max, I take it you will have a bespoke on the way! Paul

10 years ago by pmdevlin

Forum

Smoke Generator

Cheapest way and one ofthe most efficient is to use a 'Mist Generator' rather than smoke. Uses far less energy to power as you are not heating an electric element. I have made one recently for my trawler and it works a treat. The only setback is they need 24 volts , I have used 2 lipos in series. The Mist Generators are very cheap, I bought 4 from Hongkong for about £12 incl.p&p. They need about 12mm of water above them, too much and they will not work, if the water gets too low they have a clever cut off. Use distilled water not tap. I made mine using a CLEAR plastic container with a full plastic screw lid about 4" diam and 4" deep, make it deeper if you have the space reasons coming up! Use a tube for ducting the mist up the funnel, I used a 22mm piece of overflow plumbing pipe. Make a hole in the lid to accept the pipe, a tightish fit allows for easy adjustment up and down. Also in the lid you need to fit a small fan to encourage the mist up the pipe so keep the hole for the mist pipe to one edge of the lid and the fan hole opposite. I used a fan from a defunct 320 amp speed controller and powered is from 3 x aa batteries. You need to fit a plate just under the hole for the fan to prevent any water spitting up into the fan electronics, obviously the deeper the container the lest chance of this happening. Before going any further you need to calculate the length of 22mm pipe needed so site the unit in position in the hull so pipe lines up under the funnel, now measure distance between the bottom of the container and just short of the top of the funnel. From this dimension deduct the height of the Mist Generator (MG) as this will be mounted on the base of the pipe. Measure the inside height of the container and deduct the height of the MG less about 5mm, mark this distance up the pipe and another about 5mm from the bottom of the pipe where the MG will fit. Between these 2 marks cut 2 slots, top to bottom as wide as possible leaving just 2 small strips of plastic again about 5mm wide each. The 2 slots allow the air flow from the fan to go up the pipe and allow water onto the top of the MG that now needs to be attached to the bottom of the pipe, I used a couple of elastic bands through the slots. A further hole needs to be made in the lid to take a grommet to accept the electric wires from the MG unit. Screw the lid assembly into the container and push the pipe down so the MG is just shy of the container base. Fit the whole unit back into the hull, use a funnel to pour some water into the unit covering the MG by about 12mm, connect the power, switch on the fan and away you go. Hope this helps.

10 years ago by HoweGY177