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    Forum
    Electronics 43x esc
    hi there, just an update. Electronize is around (in a fashion) although they don't advertise - Dave Mainprize, the owner of Electronize, is still running the Company. Although they aren't producing the 30 amp
    speed controller
    , I am lead to believe they are still doing the 43X which is a 15 amp one. How you go about purchasing I am unsure - however - if you do a web search you can come up with his telephone number/address. John
    2 months ago by JOHN
    Forum
    Electronics 43x esc
    Hi. These
    speed controller
    s are really excellent quality and can handle a high degree of voltage and amps. I use two in my vosper which each handle 24 volts. Be warned though you can seriously damage them if you reverse the polarity when connecting to the battery. There are two adjustments on them. I think one is sensitivity around the low speed response which improves greater low speed control. The other is speed range which gives you adjustment on the range of speed in relation to your radio stick throw. I have found these to be excellent high quality controllers giving excellent service and performance. You can wire in an anti reverse polarity circuit using a diode which is described in the instructions. Regards Kevin
    2 months ago by kevinsharpe
    Forum
    Fairmile c class maiden voyage
    hi there Chewi having read through your postings and watching your video - I am not sure if you have the ACTion P94 set up correctly. You should be able to spin that model round on the spot as the P94 contains a rudder motor mixer built into it. However, be warned, the P94 doesnt like certain 2.4 transmitter sets. Basically, you have to set your transmitter back to zero manufacture settings with no mixing at all on your transmitter to get it working - and - its all done in the ESC - I have built several triple screw vessels myself - the RAF63and the MTBs and basically what I used to do there is use the old Electronize
    speed controller
    s from the 90s which dont have the pre-programmed chips in them so that I could switch the signal on and off to the
    speed controller
    , thus allowing me to control the centre prop by switching the signal off and on. So, when I wanted speed I ran on all 3 props but when I wanted to manouvre I switched the centre prop off and allowed the 2 outboard motors to spin the vessel with the rudders, using mixers. In this particular model - I would ditch the gelcel battery and go for a Ni-MH battery and the 9.6 volt 500 mAh - 3 of these batteries one for each motor should give you ample run time. John
    3 months ago by JOHN
    Forum
    What batteries?
    HI all, I am building a 1/24th Perkasa wooden kit. And I have no idea how to power it. I have bought two Graupner Speed 700BB turbos that run from 9.6v to 12v. I don't want to use a 12v gel battery as the boat will sail like a brick! I want to use two coupled 50 amp
    speed controller
    s with Lipos, but I dont think I can use them with these controllers as they are for brushed motors and have a bec 5v / 1amp which I think would destroy the Lipo. What size Nimh battery pack would you recommend, and would I need two packs or would one pack be enough. I have other boats that only have one motor and are smaller than this one so have not had this sort of conundrum! I am on a limited budget so cant afford to waste money on trial and error combinations. I would be very grateful for any suggestions.😭
    3 months ago by Daveyboy
    Forum
    Slightly confused newbie
    hi ya, I have just been reading up on your transmitter and it looks as though your transmitter was originally made for cars but it doesn't make any difference. Apparentlyit is a 2 channel transmitter which is supplied with a 3 channel receiver. Therefore when you plug the
    speed controller
    into channel 3, it isn't going to work. So the way you originally had it set up is the only way to get it working unless you go for a different transmitter. What is the range of these transmitters? because I have one myself which is a Planet 2.4 Advance T5 and its got an extremely short range because its called a park flyer - I am wondering if yours will be the same just for curiosity. Best of luck. John
    6 months ago by JOHN
    Forum
    Slightly confused newbie
    hi ya J that looks like an Mtroniks
    speed controller
    in the pic - does this one have the button on that you press to set it up? because I know what you would need to do is set your trim in the neutral position for the throttle and then go through the procedure of switching on the transmitter and then the receiver and then pressing the button on the
    speed controller
    so it recognises where neutral is. I believe some of these Mtroniks are something like 100% rpm forward and something like 75% rpm in reverse. if this idea doesn't work you could always swap the wires over on the motor. (NOT ON THE BATTERY) πŸ€“ Chinee smokey come out of
    speed controller
    if you do dat 😲 John
    6 months ago by JOHN
    Forum
    Mtronics W-tail marine mixer connections.
    hi ya Colin, sorry for the delay - but I am going to open up a can of worms here. Although a lot of people use the 'Y' tail or the 'W' tail mixer from MTroniks or other Companies to actually mix two
    speed controller
    s and a rudder movement in the marine environment, (personally) I don't think this is effective as a dedicated marine mixer. The reason for this, is, I built the Forceful tug a little while ago and I incorporated the 'W' tail mixer in it for independent control of the 2 paddles and the rudder and when this model did 'sea trials' 😊 on the lake & in the test tank (the bath) πŸ‘I was never 100% happy with this. it didn't seem to perform quite right, especially in reverse. The model seemed to go better in one direction than the other. One motor always seemed to lead the other motor so therefore the model would steer off course and you were always correcting it. When I eventually checked the speed of each motor individually with a tachometer I found that one motor was indeed increasing in revs so - I took out the 'W' mixer and went for tank steering (using 2 individual sticks on the transmitter). This was a lot better and saved the day at the lake. Then I wend and had a look at what mixers are available and yes there is the ACTion P94 which in my eyes is extremely expensive - but - there are one or two on Ebay market but also there is a guy called Alan Bond he runs a company called Forge Electronics and they make an independent mixer which I use myself. I find it extremely good. πŸ‘ the name of the game though is for yourself to try setting up the 'W' tail mixer and playing around with it or you could look at individual mixers that do not have the
    speed controller
    s built in with them i.e. there is one from ACTion as well, there is one from Forge and as I say there are 2 or 3 off the web market place. Have a look - here are a couple of pics of the Forceful and my set up. The
    speed controller
    s I am using in this tug are Electronize and it's Alan Bond's original mixer which used to be sold from Technobots - but he opened up business on his own and I will put a link on when I find it. http://www.forge-electronics.co.uk/ http://www.forge-electronics.co.uk/
    6 months ago by JOHN
    Forum
    Aeronaut Pilot Boat
    Hi Ron. I have just fitted the rudders and controls last weekend. I have built almost the complete model but held off from fitting the deck until I had time to consider this problem. The best I could come up with was to reverse the control arms so that their screws fixing them to the rudders were accessible from the front after the deck had been fitted. Doing the linkages this way means that you have to bend the control arms to miss the strength rib in front of the rear skin and also you might have to reverse the servo travel direction on the Tx. I had to do this.πŸ˜‰ I have included a picture to show what I have done. it does not solve all of the problems but makes adjustment possible. I have also included a picture of the dual
    speed controller
    . I know you have solved this problem but I have tested this unit and it works very well. I hope this helps in some way. Peter.😊
    7 months ago by MouldBuilder
    Forum
    Aeronaut Pilot Boat
    Hi Ron. I am currently building the Aeronauts Pilot Boat Kit. it is reasonably well advanced now but I still have to fit the electronics. I bought two 400 sport brushed motors and was advised at a very early stage that two
    speed controller
    s were necessary. I looked into various solutions and found that Hobbyking sell a dual
    speed controller
    especially for two motors. it is a Hobbywing Quicrun 860. I hope this helps.😊 Peter.
    7 months ago by MouldBuilder
    Forum
    Aeronaut Pilot Boat
    Steve. Since my last message, I have made progress, purchased a kit from Cornwall Models. Started building hull just before Xmas and as you mentioned, you need to have patience to get it right. Before going to far, I am planning how to set up the Motors and the
    speed controller
    . I have got a Viper Marine 25 ESC and 2 Motors (380's). Looking back at some photos of yours, it looks as you have 2
    speed controller
    s. I am having problems in getting the ESC to talk to the 2 Motors. Do I need to have a second ESC to operate the 2 Motors? How would this be set up through my Hobbyking Controller? Would appreciate some clarity of my thinking. Best Wishes. RonπŸ‘πŸ˜
    7 months ago by RonW
    Forum
    Brushless motor(s)
    Hi, I have recently purchased a Precedent KD Perkasa kit 37" and would like to power it with a brushless motor, but being an Old F**t I know nothing at all about Brushless Motors or their relevant
    speed controller
    s or battery power. So I would like your input on what exactly I need, obviously I would like the model to have a fair turn of speed. Thanking you in anticipation of your much needed assistance. Little Charlie
    10 months ago by Little-Charlie
    Forum
    Does anybody recognise this old boat
    Hi all does anybody recognise this old model l have been given she,s in good nick but needs a serious update. the chap who gave it to me said the model belonged to his grand father and is at least 40 years old ( l can believe it the
    speed controller
    looked like a clock face with lots of wires comming from it.) She,s 24 ins long and 10 ins wide. been kept in a dry loft so some of the joints have come apart.
    8 months ago by jimdogge
    Forum
    How to RC small boats?
    There's no great need to dismantle a servo to get motive power - nowadays you can buy model motors that are not much thicker than a typical boat propshaft, and
    speed controller
    s the size of a thumbnail. Usually for about a pound. These small drones have really helped in this regard. This one, for instance, is 0.6cm diameter by 1.5cm long - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Original-JJRC-H20-RC-Drone-H20-08-CW-Motor-Spare-Part-For-JJRC-H20-08-RC-He-M4S2/332826605276?hash=item4d7e02f6dc:g:7AIAAOSw989bsxkP:rk:39:pf:0 Your biggest problem will usually be rudder control - there will be little room for a servo and tiller right at the stern of small boats. For an EeZeBilt I recommend a closed loop system which lets you relocate the servo anywhere convenient - see http://eezebilt.tk/radio.html The EeZeBilt Terrier below is 10.75 inches long...
    8 months ago by DodgyGeezer
    Forum
    Smoke/steam output for models
    Here is the vaporiser I have managed to scrounge, its missing it's battery pack, but have tested with a borrowed battery pack. I am thinking of using a small cylinder pump like a bicycle tyre pump, running on a crank, with its own
    speed controller
    allowing for a gentle puff-puff at low speeds, and speed it up for getting a more constant stream of vapour. Another option is a 12v air pump from a fish tank setup, another item in my oddments box. All ideas will be considered before starting the build. I think it should work with most of my larger scale models as it works either vertical or horizontal. Give me your views, cheers Colin.
    8 months ago by Colin H
    Forum
    Smoke generator
    I have made a smoke generator using a piezo transducer and a P68s variable speed brush less fan controller from action electroncs. The transducers tend to be 24v dc and are relatively cheap (Β£2-Β£3 each). I am using S3 lipos so I only have 11.4 available but a very cheap variable output unit gives me 24v. The fan is connected in-between the receiver channel for the throttle and the
    speed controller
    . The fan speed increases with the throttle and follows the throttle speed regardless of direction. The net effect is quite pleasing for diesel exhaust simulation, with a steady stream when the stick is centralised and the fan just idling. On fwd/rev throttle movement you get an increasing amount of exhaust dependent on speed. I have this installed in my Forceful paddler with twin funnels. The effect is quite realistic but can be difficult to see. I am looking for a another transducer that will produce more vapour. in its present configuration it will run for around 3 hours before topping up is required.
    9 months ago by marlina2
    Forum
    My other hobby
    Hi. Mi private pilots license also does not include night flying. But interesting is to consider when they define what is included. When having a certain number of instructed night flights you are entitled to fly in the vicinity of an airport. Vicinity of an airport German definition is that you have to be able to see the traffic in the pattern of an airport. When I did my flight from San Jose, CA to Phoenix SkyHarbour, I was able to see the traffic being about 1.5 hours from the airport. The night definition is that the night begins 30 minutes after sunset. So was entitled to do this night approaches as you can see the traffic in the pattern, on a large airport like Sky Harbour, and in the Southwest of the USA from very far. But when doing these landing operations at a large international airport, shortly before touch-down you are flying into a black hole. Due to this on my first landing in Sky Harbour, I made an awful 3-point-landing making the plane jump 2 or 3 times. Fortunately, I was aware of how to react properly when this happens. The second special experience is when you are taxiing on the runway to get to its exit and report "runway vacated" in a small plane like a Cessna Cutlass the lights lose their structure. So I went to search for the yellow line on the left side of the runway until it curved into the exit. But this yellow line and the blue runway lights are hugely distant from each other so I had to focus my efforts to stay to the right of the blue lights but still being able to see the yellow line. Once I crossed the lines that mark that you are leaving the runway I could report back to the tower "runway vacated". My second-night landing was when I did try to fly to an airport next to the "Grand Canyon". As the report of the airport said expect gain or lose 40 knots of speed on final I decided not to land and flew back To Phoenix. What a wonderful experience. The landscape was already impressive on my flight to the Grand Canyon, but it was topped when I flew by night. First I was in contact with one center in charge while being above a certain altitude. Then this center passes you to one in charge below that altitude. Makes you feel like a professional pilot. Finally, this center did pass me to the tower of Sky Harbor. I was approaching from the north. Then, what controllers of large airports like they make you cross the airport midfield what ensures you stay away from the other traffic of the airport. You cannot imagine what a sight it is when you approach a large city like Phoenix by night. After he gave me its clear to land I was remembering my awful night landing earlier. When I did have the feeling that I was about to touch-down I did control the airplane so that all you felt on touch-down was the vibration of the wheels turning. A Geman friend of mine that was on the plane with me was so impressed that he said he would fly again with me at any time. One other fact I want to share is the importance to really dominate the phraseology of radio communication and what Americans call to know the system. On my first approach by night to Phoenix, I did confuse the last VOR with the ILS beacon. So when switching to what I thought to be the last VOR the needle got full to the right and stayed there. So I did a report I was not able to tune in the VOR and so tower did give me instructions for the further approach. When you fly in from the west you fly over a mountain full of antennas and the red lights on top of it. I felt very good being routed by the tower. Those of you familiar with night-flight and how to find the location of the airport know the rule of the black spot within the lights of the city is where the airport is. Well, Sky Harbor has the terminal building between its 2 runways and so Sky Harbor does not look like a black spot. So when the tower asked me if I had field in sight I did respond negative a couple of times until he reported that I was on the 45 for the runway. Then I finally saw the airport. Here is something that is the consequence of good radio training. My instructor always said to report negative until you are really enabled to say affirm. So Tower knows when you are really able to report affirm. Do not be shy, it is your and others life! The second time on that approach was when tower gave me the instruction: 3-60 to the right until further advice! My teacher played the role of the tower and one of the things he said to teach us the right behavior was to stay silent and fly as instructed until tower contacts you again. I do confess I had never done 3-60s neither by night nor during the day! So I put the plane into a standard curve, kept it there, watched my altitude and speed. Being so familiar with this instruction from the tower I felt "at home" and this being relaxed was very useful!
    9 months ago by Hellmut1956
    Blog
    Vintage Model Works 46'' RAF Crash Tender
    Here's the history bit so pay attention... Many years ago as a boy in the fifth year of my north London secondary school, circa 1971, our woodwork class was given the option to make something of our own choice. Having mastered the majority of joints, wood turning, finishing techniques and the making of table lamps, stools and bookshelves etc. this seemed a good idea, so myself and a fellow classmate and model making chum asked if we could construct a model boat. The teacher, on hearing that it was to be from a kit and not from scratch was a little surprised but agreed. So my friend and I jointly invested about 20 quid in an Aerokits 34.5 inch RAF Crash Tender from Blunts' model shop in Mill Hill (long since gone like many others) and we set about construction during lesson time and sometimes at break times. I recall we used "Cascamite" to glue it all together on the advice of the woodwork teacher because neither 'Scotch' glue nor PVA was suited to marine construction. Good progress was made over the course of our last year at school but it was never fully completed, only requiring painting, running gear and detailing. My friend decided that he needed to withdraw from the project as he was enrolling in a college away from home to study for a career in the merchant navy and I agreed to buy out his share and continue with the project. And so it was that I carried on with the painting and installing the running gear which consisted of a 1.5 cc marine diesel engine, water pickup, prop shaft and rudder and a MacGregor radio system with a stick for steering and a single button for speed control. The engine and radio came from Michael's Models in Finchley (also long gone) for Β£20 as my elder brother, who had started a Saturday job there, was able to get a staff discount for me. The diesel engine was noisy and smelly and a pig to start with a leather thong around the flywheel and I decided to abandon this means of propulsion (I foolishly ran it for slightly too long 'dry' and melted the soldering around the brass water jacket!). By now I had graduated from my part time job in Woolies to an engineering apprentice with Post Office Telephones and my new income of 20 quid per week could support my modelling and electronics hobbies after my contribution to the household for my keep. So off to the model shop to buy a Taycol Supermarine electric motor, two 12v volt lead acid batteries and a suitable charger. The diesel came out and was sold on Exchange & Mart and the mount and coupling re-made to accommodate the new Taycol motor. What an improvement that was! I can't remember now what
    speed controller
    or servo I used but whatever it was did the job, and it went like the clappers on Friary Park boating lake (also long since gone) even though the radio control system was a bit crude with the non-proportional steering and 'blip' throttle control. The boating took a back seat when I acquired my driving licence and my first car (a rusty old Cortina Mk 1) and I also got involved in sound recording for radio. I decided to sell the boat and bits for Β£60 through Exchange & Mart and bought an Akai 4000DS tape recorder and a 'Chilton' audio mixer, built a home studio and along with a good mate of mine started making radio commercials for the new commercial radio stations including London's Capital Radio. We even won a 'Campaign' advertising award for one of our efforts! And so after several years as a 'phone engineer I moved into professional recording for A/V and broadcast and then into TV production. Fast forward to today. Semi-retired with grand kids and with more free time on my hands I still had an interest in model making so in Jan 2016 went to the Model Engineer exhibition at nearby 'Ally Pally'. It was there that I saw an RAF crash tender just like the one I built all those years ago and got into conversation with the chap on the stand. This re-ignited my model making interests and I researched the hobby and that model in particular.
    3 years ago by robbob
    Blog
    Must get the skins on before I pull all of my hair out!!
    This build is proving to be much more difficult than I had expected. 😀 I think I started this project thinking that all of the parts were ready to fit and glue. As I went on, it became clear that this is not the case. Due to this, and as detailed in the earlier post, I have had to break down the glue joints of the hull frame, and reposition after deepening some of the assembly slots. I have re-assembled the bulkheads, stringers etc. and then started to fit the side skins. This has proven to be the most difficult task so far. You need six arms. After several failures, removal of all of the fixing tape and then starting again, they finally started to look reasonable. I watched a time lapse video on you tube and he seems to do it fairly easily. Oh well. πŸ€” Now that I was happy with the fit of the sides, it was time to start on the bottom skins. I started by trying to form chamfers along the keel centre joints so that they look reasonable. Then I once again applied tape to hold them in position whilst glueing with my other three hands, I wish. This only took two attempts. I must be getting better. I still have most of my hair also. Next, I tried to mount the motors onto the angled bulkhead. The front location was very loose so I made a couple of thin silver steel rings to improve the fit. They work very well. 😊 Next job was to fit and align the prop shafts. I decided to make these solid joints and avoid the use of universal joints. The first motor went straight on with perfect shaft alignment. The second was not so good. After two hours of fiddling with a packer, I finally achieved perfect alignment. Next job was to give good joint strength and make the hull water tight. Rightly or wrongly I use a lot of glue to give that perfect seal. I used epoxy for all of the skin inner joints and Stabilit for the outer seams and joints. I used the Stabilit around the shafts as well which looks a little messy at the moment, but I will tidy all of this up next. I will paint the inner Stabilit with white paint to hide a little. This weekend I will do a water test to ensure it is water tight.😱 I think after that I will fit all of the electrics, servo and
    speed controller
    . Then I will spray the hull and the main deck prior to fixing together. I would be interested to know what others think about when to paint, before or after assembly, especialy regarding the hull. Enough for now.🀐 I will try to speed up the build a bit now as I am expecting the new 46" Crash Tender to arrive soon. Wood!!! Love it.😊
    10 months ago by MouldBuilder
    Forum
    Mixer
    Hi TJ, RE: RX battery. Any 4 or 5 cell (4.8 or 6V) NiMh of 1000mAh up will do. Use the biggest one you can without upsetting the boat's trim or reducing it's performance / planing etc. BUT: don't forget to disconnect the red wires between your ESCs and RX to disconnect the BECs in the mTroniks
    speed controller
    s!!! Also check that your RX and mixer module etc can handle 6V+! If not use the 4 cell pack. A fully charged NiMh will be significantly above 6V. Some modules; e.g. Action Electronics / Component Shop don't like that 😑 Alternatives are, esp if you need to save weight, 1 use ONE of the red BEC leads from ESC to RX, e.g. the centre one, and disconnect the other two, 2 Use a separate 5V UBEC module to syphon power off the drive battery for the RX, AND disconnect all three red BEC wires from the ESCs. Cheers, Doug 😎
    10 months ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    VOSPER 46'' Crash Tender
    Actually 4 pole , "Graupner HPD 2920-4000 High-end brushless motor Particularly suitable for: MiniMono, MiniHydro, MiniCats, MiniHydroplanes, aircraft with wingspan up to 1 m, off-road and on-road 1:12 Features ?Special CNC-machined housing for maximum heat dissipation ?High-efficiency 4-pole 12-slot brushless motor ?High-performance rotor with Kevlar reinforcement ?High-purity copper coils for optimised conductivity ?Extremely strong sintered neodymium magnets ?Intense torque at low weight Specification Operating voltage range : 4,2-16,8 V No-load speed: 29600 U/min All-up weight, approx. : 90 g Free shaft length: 10 mm Recommended controller: Navy V75 G7257 Output : 650 W Number of poles: 4 Permissible motor direction : R und L Nominal voltage: 7,4 V Case length: 30 mm Shaft diameter: 4 mm Case diameter: 29 mm Revolutions/Volt: 4000 " Taken from one Google, first response at Cornwall Models Boats!πŸ˜‰ Note. 650W, Nominal voltage 7.4V. No wonder it's a bit quick on 11.1V 😲 Cheers, Doug 😎
    10 months ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Hobby Engine Factory Tug Motors
    Hi I have just read your post about your tug, I am one of those who modified mine to two new motors:- A. Because the original gear box nylon pinion gears split and there was no way that one could get them to fix securely back on to the motor shaft, plus the fact that when initially refitted they would no longer mesh and if the motors stopped at the wrong point they would not restart they just jammed. B. I wanted to make the tug more manoeuvrable so fitted separate
    speed controller
    s to each motor enabling me to run one motor forward and one in reverse this with suitable rudder positioning allows the tug to rotate on its axis with very little forward or reverse motion. C. I was able to use a 6v 4Ah Gel type battery which gives a much greater runtime. As to the old gearbox I think that because the gears were split it was disposed of. Somewhere in my harbour here there should be some photo’s of the conversion. I am now using speed 300 motors with a 2.5:1 reduction position much further forward in the hull an I made extension shafts to the original fitted ones, and it all works. Hope this helps and perhaps explained the need to change the original setup. Graham
    11 months ago by jelley_baby
    Forum
    Nomenclature...
    Hi Martin, BEC is the Battery Eliminator Circuit built into an Electronic
    speed controller
    . UBEC is a Universal BEC which takes power from the main (drive) battery and supplies 5V or 6v to the receiver. it can be a linear device. SBEC does the same job as a UBEC but is a so called Switched device which is more efficient than a linear. So functionally for our purposes there is no difference. Alles klar Herr Kommissar!? πŸ˜‰ Cheers, Doug 😎
    11 months ago by RNinMunich
    Directory
    (Working Vessel) Elke HF 408
    This is a restoration project - my first radio control boat 'Elke', is a small fishing boat with plastic hull, a Graupner kit, purchased in Germany when I was serving in the Army there in 1974. I am restoring it for my grandson. it used to be a good runner with a 6v battery, small electric motor, two servos, one wired so it could move boat in reverse as well as forward. A good little sailor, light in weight and a good pond model. Had to be careful of wave height. Anyway, it has been in the garage for 40 years now so much to do. The inside is a bit of a mess and everything has a layer of dust. I will fit a
    speed controller
    and NiMH battery. But nothing too difficult so hope to have it finished for Christmas. (Motor: 6v) (5/10)
    11 months ago by Neil-S
    Response
    Clyde Puffer
    Correction on details of Hydro. Gordon tells me the boat is Japanese from the 1980's made by Gunze Sangyo . it has the original Mitsubishi motor and mechanical speed wiper controller [gets very hot ! ] . The hull is fine glass fibre not plastic.
    11 months ago by lesliebreame
    Media
    landing craft
    I built this from scrap wood i had lying around i bought the tanks from china the motor is a 850 mfa with a
    speed controller
    powered by a 11.1v 5000 mah battery still in progress πŸ˜‰
    11 months ago by Northumbrian
    Place
    E s c
    Guys advice please.
    speed controller
    s for my boat , viper too expensive alternatives please for the johnson 600 motors please. I’m pulling my hair out trying not to have todown grade motors. Regards Terry Nobby
    12 months ago by Nobby-Clark
    Blog
    Krick Police Launch
    I have just started to build the Police Launch that I have had for a while. Work commitments have left me with little time lately but hopefully I can get a good run on this one for a while. I hope to finish it by late July which just leaves me enough time to send it to Hungary so that I can test it. The kit is said to be good for a beginner. This would be good as many years ago I built a Patrol Torpedo Boat which took me five years. I am currently restoring this one as well but I think that will take most of this year to complete.😁 I have started by buying the
    speed controller
    . The motor is a 400 brushed. Probably not going to be too difficult to keep up with this one. The kit itself is not too bad considering the price, but I do feel that the ABS vacuum formed hull could be of a slightly better quality. Also I am finding the ply wood to be rather brittle. Does anybody have an idea for a good filler to use to fill the chips which will take to acrylic paint. I have prepared the hull and added the propeller shaft and rudder holes. Care taken here to avoid splits in the plastic. Cellotape on both sides before drilling helps.πŸ€“ I have assembled the internal parts which hold the motor, battery and rudder and also fitted the prop shaft.😲 I will start on the deck and superstructure next. An additional note about the kit. The instructions are reasonable but they are in black and white which is not helpful considering they are photograph based with text. I found a PDF on the web which is in full colour. Why don`t Krick supply this. Surely not that expensive.πŸ€”
    1 year ago by MouldBuilder
    Forum
    Graupner Jumbo 540 motors
    Help required please, I have two Graupner Jumbo 540 6volt motors in an eboat circa 1978, I had fitted an Mtroniks
    speed controller
    replacing the Bob's board only to find that when the voltage dropped below 6 volts down to 5.6 volts I was experiencing intermittent operation of the esc. I have been informed by Mtroniks that the minimum voltage for operation of the esc is 6volts. Graupner have also confirmed that the maximum voltage for the Jumbo 540 motors is 6 volts. Do I have any alternatives other than refitting the Bob's board?
    1 year ago by Will-I-Am
    Forum
    Graupner Jumbo 540 motors
    Doug, The 6volt battery is currently an NiMh battery not an SLA. The problem was that according to Mtroniks the minimum voltage to the ESC to adequately run the BEC connection is 6volts. That is why I was getting erratic control when the battery voltage was 5.6 volts. The action
    speed controller
    will work 2-12 volts and I am going to use a separate receiver battery as suggested by Dave Milbourn just to make sure. Regards Will
    1 year ago by Will-I-Am
    Place
    Motor upgrade
    Guys, hi I came down to hartsholme today to trial run the build and was made extremely welcome thanks greatly. Er motor widthThe motors are T4A from mobile marine they were extremely hot so prop size adjustment is needed. I am building again this time an inshore mine sweeper I have 50 mm graupner props on at the moment and am looking for a pair of motors to run off 12v LAB with 15 amp
    speed controller
    s per motor but cooler with out going to big I have 50mm per motor width allowance and 70mm length. I would like to keep up speed as inshore sweepers were fairly nippy 20knots real time. is there any recommendations please ,apart from rebuild again. Regards Nobby
    1 year ago by Nobby-Clark
    Forum
    Windows, stoopid question.
    Hi Doug, I dread to think what a Proxxon version of a Jacobs chuck would run to. They seem to be outrageously expensive things. I only have a Proxxon drill because it was on a deal too good to miss, but the electronic
    speed controller
    went nappoo after a few weeks, so I cut it out and wired it direct, so it's flat out all the time. Having said that it has tolerated that for literally years since. I also use the Proxxon transformer to power my other mini tools, which are all the much missed and very reasonably priced Mini(Maxi)craft stuff. I have a circular saw, orbital sander and disc sander and all are plugged into the Proxxon power box when required. The circular saw must have cut miles of deck planking by now! Cheers, Martin
    1 year ago by Westquay
    Forum
    What do you do when...
    Morning Doug Yes gotcha. I was thinking heavy magnet like a speaker magnet. OR arrange a relay with a double throw switch to reverse the current and hence the motor. Piece of P-ss for you mate.Just have enough weight to avoid tangles as you strip the line from the reel and fine synthetic string better than fishing line. it is less likely to be pinched in the roll on the drum. Also more scale.You may want a
    speed controller
    or esc perhaps. Or just rely on the gear ratio. An old brushed motor would do I think with about 4volts.You may still need a pawl to prevent the load stripping line when power is off the motor. I hope I tickled your little grey cells mon ami. Bon chanceπŸ‘
    1 year ago by onetenor
    Forum
    Warped wood
    Central heating. Death to nice wood. I have had central heating for the first time in my life these last 2 years and my china cabinet, which my Grandad made in the late 1920s has a crack you can pass a match through in the bow top. Grandad would be furious! But I've cut a diagonal in pear and forced it in under the smaller roof and that's sorted that one and the larger roof is already repaired in three corners with the fourth tomorrow. Already getting the slight droop out of the bigger one and glued with epoxy. I was delighted to find the square connector of the Taycol coupling still there along with the original Mersey Marine bow fender. Also the
    speed controller
    of my Proxxon drill, which went home very soon after I got the drill, so I ripped it out and wired straight through, so it's been flat out ever since! I wouldn't be without it though! I shall be pressing my epoxy into use to coat the ply both sides, using an old credit card to press it into the grain. Then this 54 year old baby will be good for another 54. Cheers, Martin
    1 year ago by Westquay
    Forum
    LED Tug Mast Navigation Lights
    OK Got 'em! N channel MOSFETS good for 180V, 4A DC and 16A Pulsed (as with our
    speed controller
    s) so more than enough for our 'little toys' 😊
    1 year ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    LED Tug Mast Navigation Lights
    Hi Pete, Go easy with the prying!! You're right. The spring loaded button is the way in. But it can be very stiff and underneath the hatch is a dense foam rubber gasket which makes the hatch catch (πŸ˜†) difficult to release. Press the button firmly down while trying to ease the hatch forward with your blade. In my basic version there ain't much underneath except the rudder servo. But that's where I intend to put a decent battery. Re electronic
    speed controller
    (AKA ESC); it MAY be on the cct board but I doubt it cos I don't see the FET power transistors for the outputs to the motors! Unless that's them in the bottom left corner in the second pic? In mine it's a separate square block with the heat-sink tabs of the transistors clearly visible. Trace the wires back from the motors to find yoursπŸ˜‰ Everything else, RX and switched outputs, is on the cct board. Check out the blog with the link above and you will find all the secrets about removing the deck without busting anythingπŸ‘ More later, ciao, Doug 😎
    1 year ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    What Li-po?
    I think that if you are considering changing to LiPo's then it is worth the complete transition and also move to brushless motors and appropriate
    speed controller
    s. However if you don't wish to go to the expense involved in such a move an appropriate battery size in Lipo would be 7.4v, the higher the capacity in mah will only increase the an mount of time it will last. I think the performance will prove to be exciting.
    1 year ago by Flack
    Forum
    advise required
    Hi all and thanks to Ron and Doug I have not forgotten about the TGY-i6 set and have looked at the suggestions from Ron. I looked at a lot of stuff it can be a bit of mine field, I have fond this at Cornwall models Servo, Batteries, Charger & 15A ESC This pack provides the radio control unit and all items necessary to complete an RC boat kit. Certain models may need a motor Contents: 2-Channel transmitter Reflex Pro 3.1 2.4GHZ 5-Channel receiver, CS-3 steering servo (3kg/cm force) Transmitter batteries, 7.2v/2100mAh drive battery 15Amp Marine Electronic
    speed controller
    Plug charger Multi-lingual instructions Part No: CMBRCP15 I think this may be the way for me to go as it seem to have all the things I need to learn about in the one package, I know I may have to up grade some parts but for the first timer I think it would do your opinions would be much appreciated
    1 year ago by teejay
    Response
    More running in at Bournville.
    The motor is only a few months old, bought new for Howe's models. I've heard of old radio caps going dry and I means after 40 years of service, since the brother in law repairs old radios and juke boxes. But not capacitors after 16 weeks, the motors only done 3 or 4 hours of service in total. I've added an additional cap across the terminals. I also had a reply from the
    speed controller
    company they said to check the fail safe on the transmitter which incidentally is working to kill the throttle channel as its a fly sky intended for a (plane).
    1 year ago by Novagsi0
    Blog
    More running in at Bournville.
    Dennis The Menace, the captain at the helm strikes again, after a radio outage the cockpit ended up full of water up to his waist. Some fresh paint need on the bow. Need to find out why the
    speed controller
    without warning goes mad. Tio Marine 50A ESC and fly sky receiver paring.
    1 year ago by Novagsi0
    Forum
    Proboat Impulse 31
    Used Proboat "Impulse 31" in good condition. Deep "V" ready to run speedboat capable of 45+mph 1750kv 4 pole water cooled brushless motor Dynamite 120amp water cooled electronic
    speed controller
    Flex shaft drive system Offset rudder set up Use with dual LiPO's with EC5 connectors (batteries not supplied) 2.4Ghz upgraded Spektrum DX4C transmitter and SR210 receiver. Length 31 inches (787mm) Beam 9 inches (229mm) Height 3.66 inches (93mm) Β£200 plus p&p
    1 year ago by Flack
    Forum
    47'' Fireboat power question
    Just a word of caution - I fitted my 47 inch fireboat with a JP Energ I.C. 60 O/R 670 (C50-20) Brushless Motor which is similar to the one you are considering fitting. I use it with a Fusion hawk 120 amp electronic
    speed controller
    and it is powered by two 4s LiPo batteries. The performance is exciting to say the least and I find that once it is on the plane it becomes unstable and prone to capsizing. Shaun.
    1 year ago by Flack
    Forum
    Graupner ranzow refitting
    I originally built this about 6 years ago when I was still a novice builder and some mistakes were made and it ended up partially sinking , it was left in the workshop for about a year before I decided to refit it out. The deck just lifted of the framing without any problems because it was rotten as well as some of the framing , the motors and prop shafts had seized and most of the electrics and the battery had shorterd and corroded due to the sinking. I had been doing the odd bits of the refit over the past couple of years not really in any rush to complete it. After replacing the rotten framing I started to replace the electrics with all new gear Battery 12v 7mah Motors Mtronic 560 Working crane using 3 mini motors with Mr RC world micro
    speed controller
    s Working anchor winch (krick I think) Full lighting kit and working radar Main
    speed controller
    s electronize The pictures shows as it is now ready for the new decking to be fitted
    1 year ago by kmbcsecretary
    Forum
    AL Khubar 2
    Hi As seen in my build blog list of items fitted. 2 MFA Geared 6-1 Motors. 2 Aqua power 128 FNR
    speed controller
    s. Brass props. Bow thruster. Brass Korts. Sound unit. Horn. Lights. all in working order. Sailed very well yesterday at Owls pond. In good working order sold as seen with no returns too detailed to pack collection only please. Β£300 ovno. Any Question please ask. Plans and instructions also.
    1 year ago by dragon
    Forum
    Mtronic 10amp
    speed controller
    s for sale
    Now sold subject to the usual
    1 year ago by kmbcsecretary
    Forum
    Mtronic 10amp
    speed controller
    s for sale
    These were fully working when removed but both have had the switches removed but this is easy to replace if wanted . Looking for around Β£15 for the pair posted
    1 year ago by kmbcsecretary
    Forum
    Graupner ranzow refitting
    Here we have the working crane for lifting the buoy's into/out of the water. Again this was converted to working by using three micro motors rated at 300-1 plus one gear box at 5-1 to operate the rotation and a 4-1 gear box to operate the lift and lower first pic shows the crane completed second pic shows the line winch motor which is just a 300-1 micro motor. third pic shows the lift and lower arm with the motor and gear box is hidden in the crane body fourth pic shows the micro motor and gear box that controls the rotation, there is a similar layout that controls the lifting arm the final pic shows the micro
    speed controller
    s that you can do the fine control of setting the required speed that you want. Ron
    1 year ago by kmbcsecretary
    Forum
    Graupner ranzow refitting
    Here we have the working radar and search light . The radar was easily converted to working by using a micro geared motor rated at 300-1 controlled by a micro
    speed controller
    thanks to mr rc world electrics. The original radar mould was first filed flat underneath then a small hole was drilled and a brass rod was glued into the hole with about 5mm sticking out and this was attached to the micro motor using some heat shrink. The second pic shows the micro motor hidden in the bracket
    1 year ago by kmbcsecretary
    Media
    Vintage Aerokit Crash Tender
    Brought this vintage Aero Kits RAF Crash Tender for Β£50 from Newcastle area, it is the 34in version. To my surprise at home I found that it had a Bullet 30 motor installed these motors were the top drawer motor of early fast electrics in the early 1980's and its the only one I've ever seen, it can run on 24v and pull around 15A giving 300w not bad for a brushed motor. due to the power of this motor I have modified the hull under the water line with turn fins and trim tabs to reduce torque roll and improve turning stability, the underside is incorrect already as it only has one propshaft, where the original had two and I believe that both props turned in the same direction. The Pictures here show some of the work in progress I have remounted the motor and added a
    speed controller
    rated at 24v I have remade the stern compartment and rudder gear under it. I have blocked windows and foamed the front half of the boat. made missing parts and repaired delaminating ply. Note old ply is not as good as modern, the glue is not as water resistant. Have painted the hull and have just ordered the decals from Cornwall model Boats :-https://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/cgi-bin/sh000001.pl?WD=hose%20fire&PN=becc_fire_tender%2ehtml#aB_2dFTS1_2e32 The 34in is 1/16 scale Fitting can be brought but many are cast white metal and can add weight to the boat, I have made two water cannons and plan to buy plastic fittings from this site. This has turned out to be a task that is difficult to assess how much effort and money to spend on a hull that has been built by someone else (say no more). Have just finished the steps for the stern compartment. Painted and now for the test run. the Bullet 30 motor ran well between 14 and 18v,
    1 year ago by CB90
    Directory
    (Naval Ship) PT 109
    PT 109 The famous ww2 PT boat skippered by JF Kennedy (later to be President of the USA) This has be one of my have to have model boats and it was by luck that I found one for sale on a model boat club's web site in 2013, Β£100.00 later and a journey from Cumbria to Yorkshire and back, I had myself a ProBoat PT 109 This was a ready made RTR model when new and is 40in (1m) long, the boat needed some small repairs but after a test run I found that the running gear was noisy and on investigation discovered that both propshaft were bent and had no bearings from new, the couplings were just direct connections. So with great care I replaced both prop-shafts, propellers, coupling for two double Huco's (universal) and the single ESC by two new Aqua
    speed controller
    s and both motors with Graupner speed 600's Note I also foamed the front compartments to make it unsinkable in theroy. (Motor: Graupner 600s) (ESC: 2x Aquapower) (7/10)
    1 year ago by CB90
    Blog
    Up Grade NDQ speed boat
    This is not a build but a modification of a cheap Chinese boat just for fun, I got a bit bored of scratch building projects as they take so long especially as I am not retired yet. The NDQ 757 Coastal Brother 1:25 Radio Controlled Racing Power Boat cost about Β£25 each from Amazon. These boats have a basic 27mhz radio and two 380 type motors which have forward and reverse and you steer by powering one motor or both for straight ahead. I bought two of these boats as they are light and about 24 in long, one to convert/upgrade radio, esc and brushed motors. The second was to upgrade radio, esc for brushless motors. The brushed motor version I put in two higher rated motors (390) with cooling fans built in, but same motor diameter but longer body I had to modify the mounts, kept same couplings and shaft/propellers. I did remove trim tabs (fixed) and replaced the straight running adjuster for a racing rudder. The brushless version is the same but has brushless motors 2x 2845 2600KV sensor less Specifications: KV(RPM/Volt): 2600KV RPM: 50000 Max Current: 42A The boats ran well but trimming needs attention, as hull is curved up at the back so trim tabs down, to prevent proposing, in-fact at one stage the boat left the water, but need to distribute weight towards the bow. Tried on 3S (11.1v) for brushless went well but got slightly hot after 10 mins. 7.4v for brushed also got slightly hot after 10 mins., and went nearly as well as the brushless. Surprised!!
    1 year ago by CB90


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