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    Forum
    EeZeBilts From Keil Kraft
    Well, if we have finished discussing ladies' underwear, I would like to go on with the discussion on plan creation... Actually, paint finishes on EeZeBilts is a bit of a problem. It's true that balsa is not a good surface to paint on, and a common trick has been to cover it - with tissue, brown paper, nylons or fibreglass - and then work on that. I have always found this to be a bit fiddly and time-consuming, and prefer to get a reasonable surface with sanding sealer, then use car
    spray paint
    s and finish off with spray lacquer. Remember to seal the inside as well - balsa can swell like anything if it absorbs water. I'm currently trying sprayed acrylic paints in an effort to lower the cost - they seem to work if well sealed.. Anyway, back to the design... It turns out that this hull is not a simple one to convert to an EeZeBilt. The angles on it make the shape critical to get right, and we have no measurements or any precise pictures at right angles. Still, we will do our best... Now we have got a basic hull shape, we look at it, compare with pictures and see if it looks right... When I did this, I thought that the stern should be fatter and the hull should taper towards the bow. Martin555 pointed out that the funnel should be lower and wider, and the mast should be wider... so I tweaked the hull and superstructure until it looked a bit closer... compare fig 10 with fig 11. As we develop a reasonable plan and elevation, we can start to consider cross-sections. In this case I am thinking about powering the hull with water-jets, so I think about where they will fit. Most of the hull can be a simple box structure which the egg-box design is great for - it will only need a different approach at the bow. In fig 12 you can see various stern cross-sections being tried out for jet fitting and similarity to the rear photo. A CAD package is really handy here - you can just nudge lines and angles until they look OK. When the hull shape looks like it's settled down, we can add the cross bulkheads. You can see these in fig 13. From this drawing we will be able to generate the bulkhead shapes, the deck and sub-deck and the keel, just by measurement. But only for the main part of the hull. We will leave the ways you can do EeZebilt bows for the next session...
    1 year ago by DodgyGeezer
    Forum
    Painting over epoxy
    I have used several Halfords Aerosol spray cans on boats over the recent years. In each case I have sanded the hull down to bare wood as the boats were vintage ones and did have coats of paint on them that could not be identified. Best to use thin applications of both primer then paint then build up on that after leaving 24 hours between each coat. Another good point is that Halfords also stock plastic primer in their paints range which is ideal if your boat has a polystyrene hull or you have plastic fittings. Boaty😎
    1 year ago by boaty
    Forum
    Painting over epoxy
    Halfods spray cans will work brilliantly of if you know of someone who works in a body shop get them to spray it with 2 pak paint for you Dave
    1 year ago by Dave J
    Response
    Painting
    Thanks Doug. Do you have any idea as to why white
    spray paint
    is much more difficult to get good coverage with than most other colours.πŸ€“
    1 year ago by MouldBuilder
    Forum
    Propshaft Lubrication
    You can still get greases that are applied in liquid form but they now tend to be in spray form. I personally do not use silicon oil or grease, it is fine until you need to repaint your boat, it forms a film that is almost impossible to remove, even cellulose thinners has no effect and any paint applied fish eyes and separates, there are dedicated removers but we tried one on a contaminated bike frame which had been blasted, with poor results we had to treat it several times and had to reblast it, we discovered silicone grease had been used in the bottom bracket. Keep silicone away from any surface you may need to paint.
    2 years ago by TheBlacksmith
    Blog
    Net bins
    The boat is nearly complete now, the final part is to fill the deck with fill nets! I have found that the Heinz snap pots for baked beans are the perfect size! Top removed, sprayed and weathered and then a body buff has been cut up and stuck inside along with some twine. I’ve then painted the net to make it look dirty and some varnish to give it a wet look.. 2 down 1 more full one required and then a stack of 3 empties... but first dinner, and yes, it’s beans on toast for me!!!
    2 years ago by GrahamP74
    Blog
    Painting
    Well it is nearly Christmas again and time to go to my testing river in Hungary. This boat will not be ready but I hope to complete the Police Launch this trip. I have started the painting process on the Pilot Boat. Very early on I had a dilemma. When is the correct time to paint. As I generally use rattle cans and an airbrush, I think it best to paint prior to major assembly. I am still not sure if this is the correct approach but I am concerned with masking an assembled unit. I hope that the glue does not ruin the paint finish when I put it together. It is a bit difficult
    spray paint
    ing this time of the year due to the fumes. I spray in the garage with the door open but I am always concerned about air temperature. The finish looks good so perhaps this is not of great concern yet.πŸ€“ I will now leave the hull to dry prior to applying the lacquer. I have completed the insides of the bridge and rear room and will start to assemble this part next prior to masking and painting the outside walls. I have bought a roll of special low tack clear film to protect the windows and frames. I hope this works. I have used the same film to cover the instrument panel which so far seems to be staying on well. I think that these models by AeroNaut are really well designed. it still amazes me that the model looks so natural even though it is made generally from flat thin sheets.πŸ˜‰ I will attach the deck next and then start on the main structures. Happy Christmas to all.
    2 years ago by MouldBuilder
    Forum
    spray paint
    s
    If they are enamels like Plastikote used to be, yes, but as far as I know, Plastikote changed formulae to acrylic, which, if their brush pots were anything to go by are complete crap. I had one that reacted with itself! I complained bitterly to them and they sent me every pot of enamel they had left in the office! Martin
    2 years ago by Westquay
    Forum
    spray paint
    s
    This looks handy folks.---https://www.metals4u.co.uk/tools/c190/decorating-wood-care/c2518/paints-spray-paints/c2846/decorative-sprays/c3834?source=mailer&utm_campaign=m4u+nov+2018&utm_source=emailCampaign&utm_content=&utm_medium=email πŸ‘
    2 years ago by onetenor
    Forum
    Pretend deck planking
    Hello from Australia, First start off with a scrap piece of plywood the same as you intend to use for the deck. Work out the width of the planks and score lightly with a scriber (not to deep). Using a ruler or suitable guide ,mark the lines with a no 3 fine tipped marker pen. wait till dry(usually 24hours to stop bleeding) then either spray or paint on satin laquer. (3coats). Always works for me. Good luck. Sid
    2 years ago by sidley70
    Response
    Spraying Again.......
    Hi Neville, Check out my Sea Scout 'Jessica' renovation blog for how to achieve good paint finish! 'Wet n dry' is the ONLY way to go. Right from the priming stage. it stops the 'riding' you describe and the generation of flying dust which is anathema to any paint or varnish finish, but you do have to clean and re-wet the paper and the object you are sanding from time to time!!! Any mistakes at that stage will carry through to the top coats and still be visible 😑 Don't quite understand how you created 'mouths'. I'm wondering if you sprayed too close and/or too heavy!? Your apparently exorbitant paint consumption seems to hint at thisπŸ€” For the record; I started with 240 on the primer/filler for my Sea Scout and worked up through 400, 600, 1000, and 2000 and 3000 for the final top coats and deck varnish. All 'Wet', with a few drops of liquid soap added at the top coat stages, i.e. from the 1000 stage. At the end I polish with a mild cutting polish 'Anti hologram' they call it here, from the auto industry. Tedious I agree and a generous dollop of patience is required (the 'Secret ingredient' I have often mentioned here πŸ˜‰ But when you see the result it warms the cockles and makes it all worthwhile.😊 Happy spraying, cheers, Doug 😎 BTW; for the blue on my Sea Scout hull I used a 400ml rattle can for several coats (more than three in the end) and there's still some left ! BTW2; For masking I use Tamiya tape for nice crisp edges. Fill in behind that with 'normal' fine masking tape and newspaper.
    2 years ago by RNinMunich
    Blog
    Spraying Again.......
    Well had a break of a few weeks, now back on the job. So now have a Red Oxide boat rather than Yellow one……………… Although these next stages are a bit β€˜ samey’, I have learnt a few things as it happens. For example, I had put three coats of the Halfords filler/primer on a couple of days before I had a break. Now when I left it all looked dry, well covered and β€˜solid’. When I came back to it some weeks later the longer drying period had shown up some gaps. Well not gaps actually but β€˜mouths’ where tissue I had overlapped had pulled apart slightly. interesting, easily fixed with some 240 grit sanding, showing that the drying period is longer than it would appear. At least for filler/primer which is a much thicker substance than just
    spray paint
    . With the sanding, I had not appreciated the difference between the grades say from 240 upwards (or is it downwards) as my experience was with doorframes and floorboards. For the stage I am at, 240 and 400 seem very effective and leave a good surface. What I did find was how important dust becomes……………… The sandpaper rides on it (the powdery dust) and so becomes much less effective and I found brushing with a thin 2 inch brush worked well, using the vacuum cleaner to clear up later. I did try blowing it off with the heat gun but that put the dust up in the air too much. it is my intention to try β€˜wet and dry’ approach for later coats and looking for a better answer when it comes to finishing coats. Another interesting discovery was coverage per rattle can. It may be my β€˜beginner’ technique, but it seems to take a lot of paint. On this size of boat hull, 44inches (112cm) by 14 inches (36 cm), it took a 500ml rattle can of yellow filler/primer for three coats. For two coats of the red primer it took the whole of a 300ml can. Also discovered, using these β€˜rattle cans’ for the first time, that the primer on its own comes out differently to the filler primer. This unsettled me for a minute or so but appreciate may be due to the different density so will be aware next time. Another issue that became obvious was…………..I must improve my β€˜masking off’ ! So that is it so far. Next stage is - going to buy a couple more cans for the finishing coats, do a bath test, mark the white line point, more sanding down and then start applying the finishing coats. Any helpful comments will be much appreciated. NPJ
    2 years ago by NPJ
    Forum
    Painting
    Ah! I thought Fairey might prove the exception to the planking rule. Well, it'll look nice, that's for sure. Paint. I always use enamel and my local auto paint shop will make me 1/4 litre tins up, of HMG, which lasts a long time from a small spray gun. Failing that, Rustoleum do some lovely rattle cans in a range of colours that spray very well and are only just over a fiver a tin. One tin would do you if you're careful. I've just given my Darby One Design its second coat of blue after a rub down and I'm happy with that. Dries very quickly, but is a nice gloss. it is a bit thin, so be very careful how you spray. Better to do two coats than one thick one. But really, if you can get it, HMG is the best bar none. Worth hunting for. Paint, alas, just ain't cheap anymore. Would that we could get tins of Valspar or Japlac, eh? The proper original stuff. Plastikote was a good paint when it was an enamel, now it's acrylic water based muck. No coverage and reacts with itself, let alone owt else. I would be inclined, btw, to do that curved deck in veneer, so all your mistakes will be made before it goes on the boat. in which case, once the planks are made and fit bang on, go up the edges with a black marker pen. it will look like caulking when all is done. Good luck, Martin
    2 years ago by Westquay
    Blog
    Must get the skins on before I pull all of my hair out!!
    This build is proving to be much more difficult than I had expected. 😀 I think I started this project thinking that all of the parts were ready to fit and glue. As I went on, it became clear that this is not the case. Due to this, and as detailed in the earlier post, I have had to break down the glue joints of the hull frame, and reposition after deepening some of the assembly slots. I have re-assembled the bulkheads, stringers etc. and then started to fit the side skins. This has proven to be the most difficult task so far. You need six arms. After several failures, removal of all of the fixing tape and then starting again, they finally started to look reasonable. I watched a time lapse video on you tube and he seems to do it fairly easily. Oh well. πŸ€” Now that I was happy with the fit of the sides, it was time to start on the bottom skins. I started by trying to form chamfers along the keel centre joints so that they look reasonable. Then I once again applied tape to hold them in position whilst glueing with my other three hands, I wish. This only took two attempts. I must be getting better. I still have most of my hair also. Next, I tried to mount the motors onto the angled bulkhead. The front location was very loose so I made a couple of thin silver steel rings to improve the fit. They work very well. 😊 Next job was to fit and align the prop shafts. I decided to make these solid joints and avoid the use of universal joints. The first motor went straight on with perfect shaft alignment. The second was not so good. After two hours of fiddling with a packer, I finally achieved perfect alignment. Next job was to give good joint strength and make the hull water tight. Rightly or wrongly I use a lot of glue to give that perfect seal. I used epoxy for all of the skin inner joints and Stabilit for the outer seams and joints. I used the Stabilit around the shafts as well which looks a little messy at the moment, but I will tidy all of this up next. I will paint the inner Stabilit with white paint to hide a little. This weekend I will do a water test to ensure it is water tight.😱 I think after that I will fit all of the electrics, servo and speed controller. Then I will spray the hull and the main deck prior to fixing together. I would be interested to know what others think about when to paint, before or after assembly, especialy regarding the hull. Enough for now.🀐 I will try to speed up the build a bit now as I am expecting the new 46" Crash Tender to arrive soon. Wood!!! Love it.😊
    2 years ago by MouldBuilder
    Forum
    Styrene Allergy?
    .... and make sure the working area is well ventilated, an extractor fan helps enormously, as also with
    spray paint
    ing or soldering (esp with the old lead based solders). it's the solvents drying your skin out, removes all the skin oils. Can make your eyes sting as well. 😭 Cheers, Doug
    2 years ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Brass bashin' Chris Craft deck fittings...
    Just got white metal castings back of the Chris Craft fittings and very nice they are too. They have started to burnish up a treat and will polish well as Paul uses a good quality metal. Nice and hard. Now I have to make the light lenses. Also put the blue bottom on her at the weekend using my one and only pot of Plastikote enamel paint, not the acrylic muck they've turned over to and it went on through my spray gun as smooth as could be. Even my masking worked. Just waiting for a gold pin stripe tape for the boot topping now. The final bit will be masking the deck to paint the covering boards and king plank with the same blue. For those not lucky enough to have a wee pot of proper Plastikote in the paint cupboard, I also got a couple of tins of Rustoleum spray, only 5-25 a pot, enamel (of course) in a nice French blue and a rich cream. These colours will look good on my Darby One Design single stepper "WHO'S DARBY?". Very post War. I think the Oulton Broad One Design single stepper will be Burgundy and the Whippet One Design will be varnished mahogany. I know of no other classes of British stepped hydroplanes. These will all be 1/6th scale as they're all around 12-13 ft. long. I'll probably put the same motors in them eventually. The Darby is well advanced and has a Speed 400, but I may go brushless. Any suggestions for a cheap Brushless/ESC combo will be welcome for, say, 3S Li-Pos. it would be good to see these period boats all racing together. I also plan to make reverse clinker Singer cadet and a Percy See Bugatti engined boat for which I have plans. I'm hoping to get a response from the current keepers of Berylla II about measuring that, too, since it also uses a Lea Francis engine, like the Whippet.
    2 years ago by Westquay
    Forum
    1/16th scale Fire Boat decals
    Hi all, got my Crash Tender bottom sprayed red today, so I'm nearing when I'll need the hull decals for FIRE, roundels and numbers. Anyone know where they can be had from? Also what does that stuff on the bow say/look like. I can hand paint that if necessary. Cheers, Martin
    2 years ago by Westquay
    Response
    Range Safety Launch?
    Hi Neville, I recognise the 'I want it all and I want it now syndrome' cropping up againπŸ˜‰ Wev'e been down this road before haven't we!? You don't have any "structural' problems. The original builder simply cheated and covered over the 'back bay' instead of fitting it out. And - Why do you want to mess with the cabin tops? To get the boat going for some fun just leave the superstructure like that for now and think about it and fiddle with it in the winter. The deck looks fine from the photos. Just flat off with some 1000/1500 grit wet & dry and give it a spray of medium sea grey and finish with satin or matt varnish. After you've fixed and repainted the hull. If you do all we've said to fix the hull, and apply the fix up to the joint of hull and deck there will be as good as no chance that the deck will leak. When all is said and done YOU saw the boat before you bought it and YOU had a specific purpose in mind apparently. Namely; some quick fun. Soooo - fix the hull, have some fun learning to drive it, and leave the fiddly bits and embellishments until the 'closed season'. Then you can deliberate and decide if you want to restore it as an RSL or convert it into something more exotic. Looking forward to your cogitations on the electrical layoutπŸ˜‰ What Action bits are you thinking of using? BTW: if you had a fire at all with the heat gun either you have it too hot, turn it down to about 300 -350Β°C, or you're hanging about too long in one place. The gun should only be just hot enough to start the paint surface bubbling up. ATB Doug
    2 years ago by RNinMunich
    Blog
    Added ESC
    Added a 60A ESC of Chinese origin, improved waterproofing, and modified the rudder water pickup. Repainted trim tab extension as while it sat in the test tank (AKA the bath) the water got into the wood and split the paint work car
    spray paint
    not as water proof as I had hoped. On the test I found it was pulling over 40Amps which is not what I want as this is a race boat with limited battery capacity so cut down propeller by filling of the lagging edge of the prop via a drimmel and a file, so now pulls under 30A at full throttle. At the pond I will check current and prop-sizes.
    2 years ago by CB90
    Blog
    One Bottle of Thinner!
    Had to order a small bottle of Testers Thinner. See, I used spray cans to paint the superstructure of the Brooklyn! So there was some area's that need to be tidied up a bit! So my idea is to spray some of the leftover paint. into a small cup and use one of my small brushes. To paint over some area's that have over spray! So, I need a way to clean my brush! Hence the Thinner...…….! Now, I can finish the build of the Brooklyn! Tommorrow, I plan on working on her running lights! For this I must give credit where it is do, Thanks to RNinMunich Doug, for you hard work and dedication, Thanks again Doug! I printed out the diograms you sent me. They are a lot of help!
    2 years ago by figtree7nts
    Response
    Painting.
    Evenin' Neville, For a first attempt spraying that's damn goodπŸ‘ I prefer to use a 0.8mm nozzle for 'big' areas such as hulls. 0.5 for the 'fine' stuff, e.. cabins and fittings, which I still need to practice! Will need it when I come to the cammo pattern for PT109. Practice makes perfect they say! Basic rules (THEY also say😁) are- Paint consistency should remind you of milk (no cream!), Don't get to close, Don't move too slow! Keep up the good workπŸ‘ Cheers, Doug 😎
    2 years ago by RNinMunich
    Response
    Painting.
    Hi Doug. Thanks. You are right about the first aid. Clumsy. Good that my wife is a nurse me thinks.πŸ˜† No. This is my first attempt at spraying anything like this. That is why I ask a lot of questions. I try to build up knowledge and the courage to have a go. I was lucky this time, so far anyway. it is not perfect by any stretch, nothing like yours, but I am relatively happy with it. Takes quite a while with a 0.5mm nozzle but once you get going, you soon learn that the paint does not go on too thick so the chances of it running are less, I think.
    2 years ago by MouldBuilder
    Media
    Sterling Emma C Berry
    Model is 49” long and with ballast keel added weighs 17 lbs. hull is covered with 2 layers of 2 oz. cloth fiberglass cloth and painted with Krylon spray can paint. Hitec sail winch servo for main sail and standard servo for jib. Model has auxiliary 6 volt electric power to compincate for my sailing ability’s and wind conditions. Sails are Mylar.
    2 years ago by Mikep
    Blog
    Final Finishing before Sea trials ;-)
    A quick Flashback to May 😲 Got sidetracked with 'lectrickery' an' stuffπŸ€” Hull was given a final spray top coat and gloss clear lacquer coat. All flatted back in between coats with 3000 grit Tamiya W&D sponges. Used wet with a drop of liquid soap. Then a few hours of polishing with car paint cutting compound and finally with 'anti hologram' polish until it feels like glass.😊 Same polishing procedure for the decks and cabin sides. Fitted a few deck fittings; tank filler caps, which also hold the aft deck down, and 'Jam' cleats fore and aft. Both from the 'Riva' range from Krick. Apart from the cockpit she's done! Need suitable scale crew and cockpit furniture now. Ship's wheel I have but that's it so far. Last pic is a reminder of how the 'old girl' started out last year, after 25 years of neglect in the cellar! Sea Trial soon. Cheers, All, Doug 😎
    2 years ago by RNinMunich
    Response
    The Lone Ranger Rides Again or Hull Finishing ;-))
    Hi Doug. After spraying, how long is the minimum time before removing the masking tape. Acrylic paints used. Thanks.πŸ˜‰
    2 years ago by MouldBuilder
    Blog
    Brooklyn Pilot House!
    The Brooklyn's pilot house is made of clear plastic. That's got groves indentations and so forth! You have to tape up the windows. before you paint them! Then you have to paint the window frames. after you paint the pilot house! I used
    spray paint
    for the pilot house. So, I have to be patient and accurate! I should be done by this Sunday! if not OK Monday or even Tuesday!
    2 years ago by figtree7nts
    Forum
    Trent deck colour
    Thanks once again for the information. I have found that the "sprinkling sand" method of recreating the non slip surface can be a little hit and miss unless you take exceptional care to get the covering uniform. instead I have used a can of textured
    spray paint
    available from Halfords and then overpainted it with my chosen colour. Regards Shaun
    2 years ago by Flack
    Forum
    Windows, stoopid question.
    Doug, I could indeed and should have splooshed the frames over in one hit, but I didn't have the spray gear out and it's just so hot I don't want to be outside, but I could get the frames cut out indoors in the cool, so being impatient I did that. OK they're all done, but I will have to brush paint them. I am now going to get the spray gear out to have a crack at the main spray jobs. Good job my neighbours are half deaf. If I were you, I would do ally frames for that sweet little Jessica. Desrves it. Dummy screws put on with a bit of sharpened up fine tube. A sheet of K&S Metal Centre ally, which is bloody good stuff, cut out with a piercing saw used in a vice and you'll have some seriously nice frames. Make a styrene pattern for the outside shape first. Cheap, easy and quick. Transfer to the ally and draw a line about 2-3mm inside it. That's your cut line. Keep it close to the vice jaws and you shouldn't suffer any distortion. Clean up with Swiss files and polish. Cheers, Martin
    2 years ago by Westquay
    Response
    Handrails made up!
    Very neat Ed πŸ‘ but how are you going to spray them without over-spraying the cabin and details you have already so carefully painted !!?? 😲 BTW: small tip for photography πŸ˜‰ Try not to photograph against a bright background. The auto exposure of the camera will adjust to the bright background (like your backlit window) and makes the foreground darker and obscures the detail we all want to see πŸ€” Cheers, Doug 😎
    2 years ago by RNinMunich
    Response
    54 year old Crash Tender
    Boaty, it's amazing how many people HAD Taycol motors, but don't anymore, apart from our chum Doug in Munich. And I'll pick his brains later maybe for info on controlling the Taycol Supermarine in the Crash Tender. Then again, I might just set it off on one pack for slowish and switch in another for faster. I ain't into reverse. Boats don't go backuds. I've had enough real ones to know that! Two of those didn't have any gears. One had a clutch and the other didn't even have that. it starts, it goes, quickish! Always had a paddle handy in the Albatross! I'm not really into the boat club festivals of steering round stuff or backing into docks, so why trouble myself with ESCs which seem to fail often still and weren't around when I had the boat originally. I have gel cells, but the damned things have all gone dead on me, so I might see about Nimh packs when the time comes. I went to get some one shot cellulose putty to fill the cracks and grain bits and the old nail head dips. But my favourite auto paint shop said they hadn't sold it in ages and offered me some acrylic crap in a tube. Not a bloody chance!!! "Gimme the thickest brushing primer you got and it better be cellulose". Yeah, got that, he said. "So why ain't you got stopper?" No answer. Anyway I get this stuff home and it's thick, cellulose (skin forming after 3 minutes) and bang on the right shade of light grey for a Crash Tender. I shall experiment with my Chinchila dust next for the non-slip areas and mix a pot of the primer with a bit of white to do the cabin sides, when I finish spray. For the moment, I very quickly slapped it on with a brush and will leave it for today to harden then start a very big, dusty, rub down session tomorrow. OK a litre of primer ain't cheap, but it's cheaper from a car paint suppliers and it's bang on colour. it'll also do a LOT of boats! I have a black primer in enamel for Vanity, which will also go on the sides of the Crash tender, followed by black gloss enamel, but's a way down the road yet. Talking of old stuff boaty, the white enamel my dad insisted on painting the boat back in the early 60s is hard as rock! He used to get it by the 20 gallon can from a "mate on the docks". We had docks in those days. Dad called it ship enamel. We all knew what he meant. Our entire house was shades of pastel tinted ship enamel! Tints courtesy of another mate on the docks. He had a lot of mates on the docks. it was difficult to be a Cockney family and not have mates on the docks! Pics later of the slapped on grey primer, which, I should say, argued a bit with the sanding sealer. Nuffin' a good rub down won't sort out. Martin
    2 years ago by Westquay
    Blog
    Recieved some supplies!
    Today besides
    spray paint
    ing the handrail to the Brooklyn. I recieved the resister and Switches. I had ordered two weeks ago! The resisters come in a plastic bag. With the various values on the reverse! Now all I have to do. is spend the weekend sorting resisters. And putting them in other plastic baggies. With the values written on them Oh, joy!😱
    2 years ago by figtree7nts
    Forum
    Crash Tender davit info...
    Martin. The textured spray I used came from Halfords and was applied in very thin layers to build up the required texture, bear in mind that the finishing colour will 'fill' the texture to some degree. I also applied a satin lacquer to seal the final surface. Sprinkling pixie dust (or crushed chinchillas 😱) onto wet paint sounds a bit hit & miss to me 😁. Whatever you do is acceptable as 'modellers license', and why not be individual with a two-tone grey schemeπŸ‘πŸ‘. Doug. I think I saw these books and others on Amazon UK when I doing my initial research but concluded that they probably wouldn't have any specific info or 'photos on the flying boat crash rescue tenders which are the subject of the discussion here and I didn't want to shell out on the off-chance that they would, but certainly very useful for the other RAF boats. RAF Hendon museum is very close to me, I could walk there in 20 minutes if I was feeling energetic, and it could be worth asking to see what 'photos and documents they have there. Robbob.
    2 years ago by robbob
    Forum
    Crash Tender davit info...
    Spray textured paint? I've seen it all now, but actually I recall seeing something along those lines in the newly opened Wicks in our nearest town, so I might return to have a butchers at their range. Failing that it'll be chinchilla dust sprinkled into grey enamel (slower drying) paint. And I think I might try the all grey, but different shades, just to be doggedly different. Cheers, Martin
    2 years ago by Westquay
    Forum
    Warped wood
    Hi Martin, Yes I'm very happy with it. 😊 Not the cheapest but very good. I use the whole range from Base coat Pore Filler (Sanding sealer) through matt, satin and full gloss varnishes. in both brushing tins, for small part brushing, and spray cans for the bigger stuff like hulls and decks. The cans don't reveal what the base is but the thinners is white spirit or any of the usual 'universal' substitutes. It's made in Holland, supposedly specially formulated specifically for model builders! But it's available all over the shop, I get mine here from Krick. Just Google Lord Nelson varnish and you'll find loads of outlets, and Hotels πŸ€”! For Sea Scout I used all spray; 2 base coat, 2 coats of satin varnish, as undercoat! Then 2 coats of Gloss varnish. Needless to say thin coats! And left to harden under a 300W halogen lampπŸ˜‰ Lots of 'flatting' back in between culminating with 3000 wet & dry, wet with a little liquid soap. Final polish using two stage paint cutting / polishing paste from the Petrol Head world. See pics. Full details (including the bloopers😑) in my Sea Scout Build Blog. Have fun with it, cheers, Doug 😎 PS Shame about the Lupins😑, that hybrid sounds fantabulous! πŸ˜‰ BTW: if you use the brushing stuff thin with 10 to 20% white spirit, otherwise you'll find, as I just did with base coat sealer on the deck of my PTB, that it takes yonks to get the brush marks out πŸ˜†
    2 years ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Warped wood
    OK, Doug, you just sold me on Lord Nelson spray varnish! is it enamel? Obviously it's external capable, but I never heard of it. it would seem to have done your mahogany a treat! I have brush painted and rubbed down cellulose sanding sealer on all the woodwork on Vanity, but will need to varnish it all eventually and whilst I find brushing varnish with a fine sable an almost therapeutic activity, there's always the risk of it building up in internal corners which is almost impossible to shift. Cheers, Martin
    2 years ago by Westquay
    Blog
    Deck Hardware Painted!
    Today was a good day to
    spray paint
    the Deck Hardware. I also hand painted the Fire Monitor too! I painted the Deck Hardware black. The main Deck will be a light Tan. And the Main Cabin Deck light Grey! Note: I used duct tape to hold the small parts. While I painted them!
    2 years ago by figtree7nts
    Forum
    Fire Boat (crash tender) colours...
    Evenin' Martin, just a quick thought before I hit the hay! For the non slip deck paint why don't you cover the deck with a suitable wet and dry paper? πŸ˜‰ With a bit of luck you might even find some wet n dry the right shade of grey!! Don't know the size / scale you are building but maybe around 120 / 240 would do! Cut to fit, glue it down with a spray glue, I found some in the 'Creative Corner' of a garden centre near me. Also a good source of fine gauge steel, brass, copper, gold and silver wire and nylon thread, and anchor chainsπŸ˜‰πŸ˜Š Then seal with a spray-on flat sealer or varnish, then spray a satin colour you want. Humbrol H129 might be a good substitute for 'Cerrux Deck Grey'. See Model Boat Mayhem for references to Cerrux Grey πŸ˜‰ I agree the cabin sides are a much lighter shade of grey, almost white. Just ripped all the innards and deck fittings off my PTB. Just got the bare hull and shaft tubes left. Just havin' a wee dram then up the 'apples and pears to Bedfordshire' before I get tempted to sand and paint through the night. it happens sometimes 😲 G'night all, cheers Doug 😎 ZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZ
    2 years ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Painting
    Most model boat hulls are way too big for an airbrush and in fact, even a spotting gun on a decent compressor can take a while with it's small spray pattern, but a rattler can ain't gonna last long on say a 30" hull. I'd say brush paint with a decent enamel, like HMG. Martin
    2 years ago by Westquay
    Blog
    Forward H Bitt & Aft H Bitt!
    I assembled the forward & aft H Bitts also painted them! They are a bit flimsy. But once glued to the deck. They become stronger! The deck is black from over spray. I will be painting the deck tan or a good shade of wood! The deck has tape all over it! So, I won't have to prime the deck!
    2 years ago by figtree7nts
    Response
    Stem Post & Bollards!
    Hi Donnieboy, I'm going to paint the superstructure. 90 Beige Green Matt - 150ml Acrylic
    spray paint
    . by Humbrol #AD6090! This will help for the Tug to stand out on the ponds! With olive drab for contrast! But I'm taking my time with the project. Because I may also be going to put deck light. and running lights as well!
    2 years ago by figtree7nts
    Forum
    spray paint
    ing hulls.
    Ah, cellulose, of blessed memory. I still have some, come to think of it, but forgetfully, I bought black gloss enamel for Vanity and some enamel primer for it also in black First coat on today. But I will definitely experiment with spraying the final coats. I sprayed an old pre-War Marblehead with enamel and it went on well. You can still get cellulose if you can convince the dealer it's for your classic car. My son has a 1951 Renown so I could always quote all IT'S details to get it, but I don't think they'll post it and I'm nowhere near any suppliers geographically. I couldn't see the point in paying for epoxy tissue so I bought a huge bag of J cloths from Poundland and used that with epoxy. Slarred the epoxy on the mahogany hull (made from old chair legs my Grandad had made a dining suite with) and then laid the J-cloth on the tacky epoxy and slarred more on with an old credit card. All my credit cards are old now and a damned site more useful as epoxy squeegees than they ever were before. Got a few ridges where they overlapped, but filler sorted that out. The hull is still very light, so will need all the large lead weights on the end of a long fin keel (removable) as it carries a big rig, (see avatar). Good luck, Martin
    2 years ago by Westquay
    Forum
    spray paint
    ing hulls.
    Hi guys, I spray my hulls using various systems. I have an industrial 120 litre 3hp compressor, with devilbiss spray guns which are for larger areas. I also have Badger air brushes and compressor with 2litre tank for the smaller hulls and detail work. I sometimes use cans, which I usually get mixed at local automotive paint supplier. I try to stick to R.A.L. paint codes. Most automotive paint from my supplier is acrylic or water based. But I always try to use good quality synthetic lawyer. I recently tried a polyester based laquer but it didn't thin down very well. But whatever method is used for painting it's the preparation that makes the end result, and that's 90% patience and 10% skill. I certainly have more patience than skill as I've only been doing it for 50+ years. Cheers Colin.
    2 years ago by Colin H
    Forum
    spray paint
    ing hulls.
    Well done Westquay, you spotted the deliberate mistake. No seriously it should have said lacquer, but was written whilst on brain numbing pain killers, my personal favourite paint was always cellulose. Although recently have been experimenting with thinned down Gel Coat, sprayed over extra fine glass cloth. Will let you all know when I get it right. Cheers Colin.
    2 years ago by Colin H
    Forum
    spray paint
    ing hulls.
    A synthetic Lawyer, Colin. Ain't they all, mate, ain't they all? I always use enamel as I hate anything water based except my tea. I have a middling sized compressor and tank and use a spotting gun. I could use a bigger spray gun, but I'm too tight with paint wastage. it's silly expensive stuff. Having said all that i just primed my sailing model of Vanity with a brush. Went on a treat, but the final gloss coat of good old British yacht Black will be sprayed. Martin
    2 years ago by Westquay
    Forum
    Which Paint?
    A couple of years ago i scratch built a 1/24 scale Vosper Long boat MTB 510. I
    spray paint
    ed the hull and super structure with Halfords white and gray primer. The Hull was given coat of Matt clear laquer Spray (Plasticote). The deck and super structure were also coated in a matt laquer spray. This product was Rustoleum Crystal Clear Matt Laquer. I have used this product before on acrylic base paints, and had no problems. Do not use on oil based paints as it will crinkle the surface. The Plasticote product i used on the Hull was fine at the time but a couple of years on the surface has become crazed. so i will have to repaint the complete hull sometime in the future. Can any one out there recommend a paint combination or product that is satisfactory, and will not craze like an old masters oil painting from the 1500s.
    2 years ago by andyhynes
    Forum
    Which Paint?
    I've always used the Halfords rattle cans for all my boats and never had any problems. Are you using a tacky cloth before you sprayed your boats ? As I have found it helps to remove any oily/greasy deposits , I always wipe down after each coat of paint after rubbing down with wet and dry 2500grit paper .
    2 years ago by kmbcsecretary
    Forum
    Bristol pilot cutter mascotte
    Back to the main hull Have finally got the hull sprayed today with this heat it has been drying faster than I can spray it on πŸ˜„ Firstly the hull was sanded with a 200grit paper to sand of the shiny coating to give the paint something to key too. It has had three coats of undercoat sanded with 2500grΓ­t wet and dry paper between each coat.the undercoat used was Halfords rattle can plastic primer. Then the lower hull colour was sprayed on again three coats sanded with 2500grit paper between each coat.colour used was Halfords rattle can ford arctic blue. the top half of the hull was sprayed with two coats only with it being black plus I didn't have enough paint to give it a third coatπŸ˜‹ colour used was Halfords rattle can satin black. Finally the hull was sprayed with Halfords rattle can clear lacquer three coats sanded with 2500grit paper between each coat.
    2 years ago by kmbcsecretary
    Response
    Sanding down.
    Thanks to you too Peter πŸ‘ Will be watching your progress also with interest. As you have an airbrush you can buy concentrated paint of the exact specific colour you want, don't have to rely on 'well it looks similar' from spray cans, and you will have much more control over spray area and shape, overspray and above all an even spray pressure. Compressor with air tank highly recommended for the latter πŸ˜‰ I'm collecting the bits and paints for my ELCO PT Boat but I'm determined to finish the restoration / upgrade of Dad's old Sea Scout first. I hope he's looking down and is happy with what I've done with his boat up to now. Spent yesterday making a mahogany aft deck / hatch and sub-frame for it. Now more sanding and varnishing!! Happy painting, Doug 😎PS: before you start with the colour coats on your boat I can highly recommend that you apply a coat or two of primer / filler, not just the thin normal primers. White primer would be better under the light Pacific Green and grey under the antifouling red. πŸ˜‰
    2 years ago by RNinMunich
    Response
    Sanding down.
    Hi Peter, you're right about the sanding down. Take your time and apply a generous Dollop of Patience πŸ˜‰ Any short cuts here will show up all through the painting process πŸ€” See my Sea Scout 'Jessica' renovation blog re hull restoration!! My motto for painting is 'Brush for little fiddly bits, spray for big bits' e.g. hulls. I agree model shop spray cans are usually small and relatively expensive for big hull. I use giant cans from the professional suppliers, again see my Sea Scout blog for descriptions and suppliers. Also agree about care with the thin skins. After sanding and sealing, with Lord Nelson pore sealer, I reinforced my Sea Scout inside (where I could get to!) and out with DeluxeMaterials EzeKote resin. it's not the cheapest but it's water based, doesn't pong and doesn't need mixing with hardener Brushes just wash out in warm water. Couldn't be easier 😊 Flat off starting with about 600 or 1000 grit annd work up to 3000 grit and you should end up with a finish like glass - see decks of my Sea Scout😊 For my ELCO PTB I bought Colour Coats MTB Green (from Sovereign Hobbies in UK) for the darker camo patches and italeri Flat Sky, # 4856, which is almost identical to the lighter Pacific Green for the base coat. After painting and detailing, pennant number and decals and such, I shall seal it all with a matt spray varnish. i use the big Lord Nelson spray cans for that. Re Gun Tubs: love the gun carriages but I guess they're much too big for my 28" boat. 😭 BTW: forward gun tub is too far forward. it should be further aft just in front of the screen round the bridge entrance starboard side and should be set half into the forward cabin. Just cut half of the lower section of the tub away on the inboard side to match the cabin height. See pics. You might find this Pinterest site useful for more detailπŸ‘ https://www.pinterest.de/pin/557039047643301834/ Register to get full access, it's free and you can get updates for the things that interest you. Hi Ray, attached are pdf files of the Aerokits plan. Just scale up to what you need and awaaay you go πŸ˜‰ Look forward to the BlogπŸ‘ Cheers Doug 😎
    2 years ago by RNinMunich
    Response
    The Lone Ranger Rides Again or Hull Finishing ;-))
    Hi MT, agreed the synthetics are better than they used to be, but still can't beat a good 'well run in' sable brush. πŸ˜‰ Spray for the big bits, brushes for the fiddly bits! E.g. 600 scale, even for those I don't use the paint (e.g. Humbrol, Colourcoat or Revell etc) straight from the can, it's too thick and gluey for detail work πŸ€” I thin it about 2 parts paint to 1 thinners. Some matt and satin maybe a bit less thinners, varies with type, colour and make. Practise, practise ... All good fun Eh!? 😎
    2 years ago by RNinMunich


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