Blog

Speedline 1/48th scale Huntsman

Have started to build. Like all good builders I started with the stand. this comes with the model and Is laser cut from perspex. not easy to photograph!!! The hull has been trimmed and the chine strips and have been added. Also the slot for the prop shaft and the hole for the rudder post have been drilled. The final photo Is just to give some scale to the model. The unfinished project In the background Is my Sea Breeze. Cant wait to get to the electrics, I think I'll need a microscope!!!!

10 years ago by jeremy

Forum

Work with Balsa wood

If you are bending things like stringers, chine etc soak the part you want to bend in a trough (if you have one- wallpapering trough is good) of boiling water for about 4-5 mins, -remove and bend around screws/panel pins set to the radius on a flat board and weight down till dry (long enough pins will let you stack a number of pieces). If you are bending sheet balsa, the softer the better, (across the grain and with it, careful bending across,- snaps easily if too firm or thick) This will also depend on how tight a radius you need, ( if only gradual- like a clinker dinghy) you might get away with firm balsa. 2mmx 10mm wide strips will follow a curve nicely. For a bow with a flare you will need to plank (vert or angled)with soft to med balsa strips (10mmx 2mm or thereabouts)- gives you room to sand and fair. The trick is to feel how the plank likes to lay around a flare with the least stress, and go with that angle if poss. If the hull past the flare is flatish you can use whole sheets to speed things up. For the truest shape, complete planking gives the best result (although a bit time consuming and a bit more sanding involved). JB

5 years ago by jbkiwi

Blog

The Waterline/Boot Topping.

I don’t know what it is about successfully applying a white waterline to a hull that gives me so much grief. I had problems with getting a good result with my Crash Tender and similarly with this model too. The common denominators are; 1. Me. 2. The hull. 3. Trimline Tape. On both occasions I’ve used this tape it has refused to adhere properly where it crosses the and on this occasion it also lifted in lots of places along the hull sides so that when the finishing lacquer was sprayed on it got behind the tape, lifted it more, and looked awful 😞 and this was despite meticulous cleaning and keying of the surface before application. Without meaning to do an injustice to the product I suspect that it’s just the way I was applying it and perhaps I had greater expectations of the product. Consequently I had to remove all of the tape and flat down the step in the lacquer coat 😠 and consider another approach, perhaps masking tape and white paint or an alternative tape. I decided to persist with the ‘tape’ method so I found a seller on eBay that could supply very thin PVC car body ‘coachlining’ tape in any colour or width to order, so I bought 10 metres of 4mm in white for just a couple of quid. What a difference!😊 This stuff went on beautifully straight, sticks like the proverbial and has stayed firmly in place over all of the contortions of the and hull. Furthermore when the hull was re-lacquered with a clear satin finish it behaved impeccably….success at last.😀👍

5 years ago by robbob

Blog

40'' Seaplane Tender, new build K

Deck is now on and trimmed and chine and gunwale rubbing strip are on. Will be making the toe rails next and a few tweaks here and there, and inside edge of deck trimming to balsa facings (to be fixed) before undercoating. Cabin is a work in progress and still to be 'fitted'to deck ( whole sandpaper sheets strapped down tight to deck, and cabin placed on top and sanded fore and aft till a good fit) Cabin will fit over an internal coaming/upstand to keep water out. and rubbing strip are hard balsa toughened with cyno (toe rails will be the same) Glue for decks was West System 105 resin with 404 powder additive (magic stuff, most widely used epoxy for full sized boats in NZ.)

5 years ago by jbkiwi

Forum

Sea Queen - strakes

Have you got any pictures of these triangular ?

5 years ago by BOATSHED

Forum

Sea Queen - strakes

I found when fitting to use triangular stock like trailing edge section for aircraft wings. it looks neat and bends more easily than square stock.Fitted thin edge up the right angled face forming the deflecting face. Filled and sanded it blends well into the hull. Maybe not true scale but looks nice. it comes in many sizes and suppliers.SLEC is one for starters and Hobbies is another. Balsa Cabin another. Just loads if you use uncle Google.👍

5 years ago by onetenor

Forum

Sea Queen - strakes

The principle is simple. Fluid flowing over a surface tends to stick to it (Google Coanda Effect). it's worse at the low Reynolds numbers that models work at. The result is that water displaced by the boat at speed tends to flow up the sides of the hull, sticking to them, and can even pour onto the deck. This slows the boat down and can swamp it. If you have a sharp chine, you can force the water to move away from the hull at the discontinuity, because it can't easily flow around a sharp angle. ideally, you can deflect it downwards and get some lift, helping the boat onto the plane. So a lot of models have small rails along the chine, shaped to deflect the water downwards a bit. This is what many of the Aerokits models have. Deep Vee design relies on these a lot - the bottom of the hull has a series of parallel so that as the boat rises in the water the spray is deflected downwards by each rail in turn and an ever-smaller part of the hull bottom is wetted - reducing drag a lot. But the Sea Queen is not a Deep Vee, and doesn't need more that the one set of rails along the chine. Deep Vee can also help to cushion the shock when a boat drops back into the water after leaving it - but that's more useful in full-size practice rather than models....

5 years ago by DodgyGeezer

Forum

Chine

Hi William, First; it looks like the rail was not fitted according to plan🤔 However; my Sea Scout has no rails at all (Yet!) and as you have seen in your other thread on this topic she runs fine with the same profile rudder. BUT; I notice that your rudder extends well below the prop. Mine only to about half way down the lower blade and she's very responsive with no sign of digging in. Before messing up a nice hull I would trim the rudder back to at least the lowest extremity of the prop. Do another sea trial and if she still digs in a bit lop a bit more off, to about half way down the lower prop blade. 😲 Easier to mess with the rudder than with the hull 😉 Cheers, Doug 😎

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Forum

Chine

I have a modav Huntsman 31, which heels over quite a lot on turns even after slowing down. I was looking at the chine at the rear of the boat (see picture) they do not dip below the outgoing angle of the hull as shown on the plan (see picture). Would a triangular fillet located under the existing chine strip to simulate the plan for a length along the hull from the transom improve the heeling over in turns?

6 years ago by Will-I-Am

Forum

Chine

tend not stop heeling, on tight high speed turns they will dig in causing a heel, you could fit adjustable stabilisers on the lower transom like on racing boats. Cheers Colin.

6 years ago by Colin H

Forum

Sea Queen - strakes

Yep, all v hulls need and it makes your power requirements less for any case. Properly done it looks good,too. With the Sea Queen being a bit on the lardarse side it helps even more to get her "on the step" Martin

6 years ago by Westquay

Forum

Aerokits MTB, what is it?...

BTW Martin; just looked at the video link you posted. That boat looks underpowered to me, or too much weight forward? Bow hardly comes outta the wet stuff, my little Sea Scout performs better than that 😁 Also seems to need the fitting. With all that splash the crew would have had a lotta fun arming the torpedoes 🤔😲 PS; I'm about to test run the first Taycol conversion board I made for you on my Taycol Target. More soon 👍

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Blog

BRAVE BORDERER

Whilst waiting for the new motors and ESCs, reviewed videos of the vessel under power and noted that as the speed increases, the bow lifts towards a plane. However, as she gathers speed the transom flaps become effective, forcing the bow down in a cloud of spray. At this point the plane has been lost and the model becomes almost uncontrollable. Decided to temporarily ballast the hull to simulate the new motors and ESCs, then try to establish the optimum flap angle using just the centre propeller and shaft. This is the original 2838 brushless motor installation with a 30 mm propeller. With this simulated drivetrain it would also be an opportunity to determine the best battery locations for both 2 and 3S Li-Po batteries. Made up an angle template with a spirit level to get the correct deck inclination with the vessel floating at rest. From this located each type of battery statically - somewhere close to the mid-point of the hull. Which also seemed as good a place to start as any! Somewhere in the research for this model found a reference to the transom flap angle. This was at a 2 degree -ve (pointing downwards) angle. installed the 2S battery and tried the model. The bow dug in at speed. Adjusted the flap to a straight and level position and tried again. The bow still wanted to dig in, but to a reduced extent. Readjusted the angle to 2 + ve and repeated. The bow now lifted so the forefoot just cleared the water and then remained in that position. Replaced the 2S battery with the 3S. The extra power obviously increased speed and the bow lifted slightly further. The spray was deflected by the chine rails and a level plane established. The conclusion is that the transom flap angle is critical to the correct planing of this model and that it should not be negative. Until the new motors and ESCs are fitted will leave the transom flap and battery locations as is. Once these components are installed, intend to repeat the test. Am confident that with some fine tuning the model can be now made to plane properly at a scale speed. Interesting to note that the model will just about plane with only one propeller operating – wonder what it will be like with all three?

6 years ago by Rowen

Forum

Windows, stoopid question.

Hi Guys, many thanks for the responses👍 So, in chronological order:- Mike: I did chamfer but probably not enough 🤔 Yes I know about the lead in side of the die 😉 and I know the one step forward half step back technique 👍 I bought this tap n die set recently, made by Toolcraft so not cheap rubbish, maybe expensive rubbish?🤔 3mm is the smallest in this set and the holder (with ratchet action🤔) is big an' clunky and weighs 340gm so not the easiest tool to keep level. Maybe good for a 1/2" Whitworth but not so super for a 3mm which is the smallest in this set. My 'Fine thread' set only goes to 2.5mm 🤔 As you can see from the pics the die is solid and there is only one locating screw so I can't open the die slightly as you say, and I remember from my car restoration days. Cutting oil I also have, mostly used on my two lathes, both Proxxon, one for the BIG stuff and one for the twiddly bits, pics 4 & 5. Have just used the littl'n to drill a 4mm brass bolt screwed into a 35mm prop so I can reduce the thread to 3mm for the shaft, pic 6. IF only I can get a decent thread onto the shaft 😲 I'll put the shaft back into the littl'n and turn a taper on the end as you advise. My Milling machine is only a teeny weeny one with no possibility of mounting the die on it, pic 7. it's very useful for pre-drilling precision holes in in an' such to take the 0.5mm pins for fixing. Just used it to pre-drill the new keel for the cutter. I have tail stocks for both lathes but no possibility to mount a die holder. Will investigate that pronto cos I'm gonna be faced with this snag again soon; 2 new shafts for my Graf Spee and 4 for my HMS Belfast. Might also look for a different die set😲 In the meantime I'll try improving the chamfer👍 Martin; as you can see from above I do have lathes, and a good selection of silver steel rod, so many thanks for your kind offer but now you've pointed the way I'll have a go at making my own punch. That piercing saw set looks good so I'll spring a few € for that 👍 You never know I might be able to use some shortened blades in my ancient Minicraft jig saw, for which you can no longer get spares 🤔 Your MB III looks great, and I can see why you were taken for that German musician - Doppelgange! Thanks for all the advice Gents 👍👍 G'night. Doug 😎 PS Just put me name down at Frau Schmutterputz's, but I'd more likely be found in the roses or perhaps petunias singing- "I'm a lonely little petunia in the onion patch ...." 🤓😲

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Forum

Windows, stoopid question.

Doug, sorry, I should have answered you last time on that. A good impression of a dummy screw can be made in aluminium with a piece of tube sharpened on the end so it looks like a miniature leather punch. Obviously better if you can do it with something you've done in the lathe, in steel, but you don't have one. SO....PM me your postal and I will send you something I will knock up for you tomorrow in steel. That will last you into your dotage, when you will be found dribbling into the geraniums with this little tool in your mitts making impressions on the window cills of Frau Schmutterputz's Home for Englische Modelbauen. You will be able to "sharpen" it buy running it round on a stone lightly, rolling it as you draw it backwards. Can't add to Squire Turpin's words at all. I have a slide tailstock on my wee Taig lathe which makes screw forming easy as the thread takes the tap/die as it wants it, square and true. The piercing saw has clamps for much finer blades rather than the relatively big fret saw blades which generally have a pin at the ends. Sometimes you'll break a blade at one end. Then the adjustability makes sense as you just re work the length and re-use the broken blade. Tight wads like me appreciate such things. Car booked in tomorrow for repairs. About £300, so not as bad as I thought it might be. it's passed for the last two years. Busy boy today as I sprayed the Crash Tender grey on its upper works and by the looks of it it just needs a few areas of fine filler and a rub down on the toe rails and one more coat then it'll be ready for the gloss sides and the hull proper. Then I even used my brand new saw to mitre the corners of the topping to Chris's new garden pond casing. it's a stand up one to save our backs. So now, I am gonna sit and watch shite telly, even shiter than normal as it is all infested by ball kickers playing grown ups and failing miserably . G'night. Martin

6 years ago by Westquay

Response

Krick Police Launch

Hi nice to see your build, I built a Krick police boat about 18 to 20 month ago and it is my favourite boat to sailI have a 550 motor in it and although it was very fast I experimented with props and I am down to a rough scale speed. The only other mods are I fitted on the chine and I used a longer propshaft and reversed the position of the motor and batteries, it sits in the water at just the right level with no ballast and planes beautifully. I bought a couple of 5mm. 9v. led's and used one along with a siren kit from the now defunct Maplins. Happy sailing😁

6 years ago by TheBlacksmith

Blog

Another great summer day!

Today is another great summer day! So, I took to spraying the Handrails and Davits. The handrails that go around the cabin aft. Need to be made up and sprayed as well! The Life rings that come with the kit. Are made of white metal. I figure for now spray them orange. And put white ribbons every 90 degree's! Kind of make them look like life rings!

6 years ago by figtree7nts

Blog

What do you think?

It is a beautiful summer day. Thought I'd do some spraying! So I sprayed the Brooklyn's Pilot house and main cabin! The origanal Brooklyn was a deep dark green. But I thought against using a dark green! I myself like a light green tug! But the port lights will be a dark green! to show some contrast. The pilot house window frames will be a brown (Using brown primer) for this! All the hand rails will be black.... So, What do you think?

6 years ago by figtree7nts

Response

Sea Scout 'Jessica' Sea Trial - at last!

Thanks Ron, must say I was very happy with the performance. Was a good afternoon out 😁 Now to finish off the fixtures and fittings! And fit !! Many thanks also once again to Canabus of Hobart, Tasmania for recommending that motor and prop combo to me👍👍 JFF I also bought a 3500kV motor. Reckon if I fit that and run on 3S it'll rip the shaft out 😲 Have to find another boat to fit that in 😁 BTW: the 'Daddy' swan in the last scene chased me out to the middle of the lake and also tried to bite my leg!!!

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Forum

Calling Devon boaters. Help!

RNinMunich , Any suggestions re ? Charlie

6 years ago by wunwinglo

Forum

Calling Devon boaters. Help!

Thanks for the kind thoughts, guys. I will let you know how it goes. There will be a rum tot! The hull does have the original , but they clearly need development which may or not be done by the 28th. Keystone - we will be thereabout from 0930 until about 1100, depending on the weather. is the park open in the evening so we could have a recce the night before?

6 years ago by wunwinglo

Forum

Calling Devon boaters. Help!

Looks very good I hope your Uncle enjoys the day. Doug don't think it matters about as long as they have a good day. My the Force be with you

6 years ago by dragon

Forum

Calling Devon boaters. Help!

Looks good👍 Did you fit ??

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Blog

Vivace Patrolboat More progress

Some more progress during the last days. I was not totally good with surface of the stocking so I gave it at thin layer of P100 and cleared the surface with 120grid paper. I soaked the spray-rails for a few hours and pined them to the hull and left the to the next day, then glued them with 2K epoxy. The total weight is now 562g, GG estimate that the perfect weight would be 800g. Hope to have it watertight before April 7th, as we have the monthly day at the indoor pool at that date.

6 years ago by Tica

Response

The Caprail Guards

Hi Ed, if they belong to the original then YES! I might be inclined to spray the hull and caprails first though, reduces the amount of tedious masking 😉 Cheers Doug 😎 PS Get in the way of what??

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Forum

Aerokits Patrol Torpedo Boat

I have an Aerokits Fast Patrol Boat, what scale 20mm deck gun did you buy is it 1/24? Also I was thinking of powering mine with a Graupner 700BB Turbo motor and Nicad battery packs or Lipo batteries. My hull doesn't have , should I fit some? Sorry for all the questions but I'm returning to powered model boats after a long absence! Thank you for any help received.

6 years ago by Biggles

Forum

SG&K gentlemans runabout

Stancraft boat has from bow to front of cockpit but I think there needed when you have 625hp on tap : StanCraft Torpedo Viper V10 625hp. think i might build mine as a stancraft version.

6 years ago by BigAlio

Forum

SG&K gentlemans runabout

Hi BigAlio Thank you for the you tube link, some very nice boats. The double seat SG&K with the motor up front was especially interesting. My single seat model preformed spot on straight up. I would drop the sides down from the bow and add in some hidden , has it is a very wet boat at slow speed and cornering.

6 years ago by canabus

Response

The Vosper 46” RAF Crash Tender Kit By Vintage Model Works

Dear Modellers and builders of the Vintage Model Works kit series. You will find my earlier pictures and various writings on the original earlier postings by me in OZ of my still some 30/plus years Crash Boat in which I wore out several I/C motors and my girl still runs in Salt Water at the local LAKE ILLAWARRA in New South Wales and you are somewhat fortunate with ready made fittings. I did not ever know of the "page" ( wish I had a copy ) on your wall of the rear well of fire hose details and fittings , wow what a bonus, as a colonial had several years till Peter Dimberline and I had contact and he helped me to authenticate my vessel. The ESSENTIAL secret of the Crash Boat is the . So many look toy in the videos and TOOOOOOO fast . The are doubled at width protruding from the hull and lesser at the point of "rise of the wood " towards the upper bow point. The depth is not too critical at a bit of about an eighth of an inch thickness or a bit thinner for the whole length as you do not want to see a "thick log ", rather again it is the width rather than depth. I know I have written on this before on this webb site in the past. The turns thus on the go become when starting on and STAY more on the go are more flatter rather like a full sized hull which has a planing/ flatter hull turn to the flatness of the water than a typical poorly behaving model boat hull which invariably heels TOOOO much and somewhat digging in , (in turns). The HARD CHINE hull design was meant to not only rise to a comfortable plane attitude but ALSO to turn without that annoying behaviour of "digging in" when it should still perform and exhibit that hard chine design attitude when in a turn . "Digging in" equals water resistance AGAINST the hull and loss of performance and loss of plane attitude and against wave resistance when the hull designers team is trying to maintain hard chine performance in the forward turning direction. I harp on this point that this hull design is one to respect . The older I get the more I expect of all my model machines that I am lucky to see on computers, as we certainly have more need to respect the masters, the likes of Peter Du Cane and T E Lawrence and Hubert Scott Payne of Vospers and Thornycroft and The British Power Boat Company and ELCO and Higgins, all of whom I have researched so much over my life and I have been to the memorial of Lawrence in the desert in Wadi Rum. I try to do it right. Regards to all builders Lyle. My mates and I have to run in 2 to 3 inch chop at times, such is the Lake Channel ! My wife has reminded me that some of my fleet do seem to have BLACK hulls and I only would build one model boat, when I bought the Aerobats Crash Boat home, the pictures are of some of my scratch built fleet.

6 years ago by Lyle

Forum

How do I make Bow Railings

HI Grandpa, if you mean the entire pulpit railing from cabin to the bow and round. First measure the deck, marking where each upright will be, the uprights seem to be the same height, so that part is easy, source some 16g welding rod, (stainless will be to difficult to braze) then shape to the size of the deck, try to keep the bends smooth as it may kink. Second. Get a scrap board bit bigger than your deck, mark each stanchion position and drill holes to match, stand the stanchions in the holes and start to lay the top rail silver solder for strength each stanchion as you get to it, might be easier to work side to side towards the bow, this will stop you burning your fingers!!!! To finish you could have the rails chromed or use a chrome spray paint, can't tell if the rails have feet (small washers) if so add these over the stanchions before you solder the top rail, they will stop them going too deep into the deck, finally drill and glue the railing into the deck, a sod of a job but the look will enhance your model Hope this helps Mark

6 years ago by jarvo

Forum

Sea Queen

Yes some more recent models, predominantly made for racing do have moulded rails along the bottom. Two reasons, one to add strength, especially if of thin material and secondly to provide lateral stability at the high speeds encountered. When the Aerokits were designed in around 1960s plastic was not commonly available to hobbyists and models were designed using wood/plywood and the originals did not even have fitted. The running gear was also heavy and bulky resulting in much heavier models than are possible today so the hulls did not plane so easily and the rails were not needed for most models. Technology can now turn out hulls in bulk using extruded and formed plastic and the rails add to the strength to help keep the shape. You can see this on most plastic packaging used for consumer items

6 years ago by Dave M

Forum

Sea Queen

Anyone fitted to a Sea Queen (or Commander) ? If yes - size(s) and where ?

6 years ago by AndyG009

Forum

Sea Queen

There are some fibreglass boats have them built in in fibreglass along the under side of the hull and not the side edge. Why is this. I don't understand this.

6 years ago by BOATSHED

Forum

Sea Queen

My Sea Commander "Jaydee" has about 3/16th inch square. Have a look at the Aerokits photo gallery. There is a picture of it out of the water and some in action. I believe rails are a must for stability in the turns when going at speed as well as helping lift the boat onto plane. Ian

6 years ago by IanD

Forum

Sea Queen

Yes you do need to fit. Can't remember the exact size but about 1/8" square should suffice. I fixed mine with epoxy and cocktail sticks pushed thro a hole drilled in the rail and hull. Make sure you seal well once finished as any water will be under pressure at speed and will find the smallest of holes! The pic of mine shows the rail just above the joint on the side skins rising slightly at the front. This was an after fit as the water was filling the cockpit at speed. Position is not too important but my model is light (brushless + LiPo) and sits high in the water. if your model floats lower you may need to fit slightly higher, its really the bit that's out of the water when planing that needs to deflect the spray.

6 years ago by Dave M

Blog

First Run

Hi Guys Well today is the day. CG of the boat at 410mm from the bow and it sits in the water on the waterline. Cruised of at a slow pace with camera man taking pics. Up to 1/3 throttle and up on the plane, nice smooth turns with the rudder. Water flying all over the place!! Up to 1/2 throttle and sitting up nice on the plane. The boat handling as smooth as butter, the spray of water from the boat is about the same as one with . Pop up to full throttle and well pass scale speed, but by this time the camera man was not keeping up to the job. Totally happy with the boat, but still requires a few bits to finish the job. Enjoy the pics and happy boating. Canabus

7 years ago by canabus

Blog

Rasta Craft - Jamaican Pleasure Boat

1 JUL 17 - Using a borrowed Lisa M yacht hull made by German manufacturer Krick and the cockpit of a scratch built I made earlier (now defunct), I'm now working on this new vessel. For no logic reason, I decided to use Jamaican Rasta culture for inspirational purposes. Just something different for may flotilla. Water tested with a 30A Mtroniks "Tio" controller, a 500-series motor, a 10.8 NIHM battery and a 40mm propeller. A winning combination for this boat. I added and just painted the hull in yellow

7 years ago by Krampus

Media

Mi Nuh Biznizz

First sea trial of "Mi Nuh Biznizz" (meaning "I don't care" in Jamaican slang). All plastic built using an altered Krick Lisa-M hull. Work in progress. Pretty wet run. Needs some , that's for sure 🤔

7 years ago by Krampus

Blog

Damen Stan 4207

Decided to advance LI-PO plans and try a 4S 4000mAh pack. This weight of this pack reduced overall model weight by 8 oz, so it is now 9.6 lbs, close to the original target. Was also to slide the pack further sternwards until it touched the inner face of the RIB slipway, about 2.5” from the stern. The effect on the waterline was limited; the model now sits slightly higher with the waterline remaining level. Slowly increased the speed of the motors to assess the LI-PO performance. There was a significant improvement. There is no need to use “ full” power as it probably exceeds max scale speed. As the model accelerates the bow lifts exposing an area of the red bottom paint. The wake streams down the side of the vessel and curls off the . She looks very realistic. The attached picture is at part speed. The model is totally controllable, the influence of the centre fins is noticeable as the heeling is not pronounced unless extreme manoeuvring is tried. After 90 minutes of use decided all original objectives for the model are now accomplished. She looks and performs well. The next task is to tidy up the temporary wiring and fit the LI-PO properly. Will also have to re-route more accessories through the voltage reducer fitted for the bow thruster so the LED lights are not overpowered. Have also bought a small r/c controlled child’s jet ski toy with the intention is using the drive and control system in the RIB. it will require much mutilation of both the jet ski and the RIB to work them in together, but think it can be achieved. My next blog will tell.

7 years ago by Rowen

Forum

3 Footer on a very rare outing

They where planning boats Martin, capable of 30 knots, look at this, the front quarter of the boat is out of the water http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=URhrnE3T8cs This model was originally built in 1962 and over time has gone through a coupe of refurbs, I made it way too heavy and it sits too low in the water. The brushless motor is too big, hence thinking of just swopping it with a smaller motor as it doesn't need to go as fast as I originally wanted a few years ago. its never handled very well, the are now worn and pretty ineffective. At slow speeds the weight displacement is all wrong, and its bow heavy, almost ploughing the water, and it takes too much speed to get on the plane, I think she needs a diet, new , and a rethink on the battery placement. Unfortunately its a boat that very rarely sees the light of day, it would be interesting to know what other peoples boats weigh, without batteries, if anyone knows? thanks

7 years ago by pmdevlin

Blog

The radio aerial & handrails.

Only the aerial base is supplied in the set of white metal fittings so it needs a rod added to complete it. First I bored out a hole through the base using a 2mm bit in a pin drill and then I used a short length of 2mm brass rod for the aerial. This rod was tapped with a 2mm thread and a nut filed to a round profile used as an end stop on the thread. I left sufficient thread below the base for fixing through the tapered aerial base, cabin roof and the reinforcing piece on the underside of the wheelhouse roof. The upper end of the rod was fitted with a hand turned knob as a finishing piece and for safety and the piece was sprayed with etch primer and two coats of white gloss. Finally I tapped a 2mm thread into a small piece of brass which was glued to the underside of the roof for the piece to screw into. The handrail bases were bought on-line from Polly Model Engineering and are 3½" gauge stanchions, normally used on steam locomotives, along with some 3/32" stainless steel rod and 8BA fixing nuts and washers. The fitting of these was quite straightforward but the two rails on the wheelhouse roof need to be bent to follow the roof curvature. The rods are fixed into the stanchions with a drop of thin superglue.

7 years ago by robbob

Forum

Tamar lifeboat

I have recently started to build a model slipway tamar class lifeboat and when marking out the holes for the bow thruster I noticed that the lower were not symetrical and that the front 220mm of the port side needed building up gradually from 0 to 5mm and back to 0 in order to correct the problem. I only noticed this because I printed two bow thruster position patterns instead of using the one supplied in the booklet and when used together showed up the problem. Not to difficult to resolve, but hope this might be useful to other tammar builders. If anyone has any other hints or tips for making this boat I would be most grateful👍

7 years ago by Helineil

Blog

The deck anti-slip finish.

The original Vosper drawings state that the deck was finished in a special anti-slip finish called ‘Cerrux’ and according to some well-respected contributors to this site the best way to achieve this finish is to apply a coat of a textured paint on the areas required and then overspray with the desired finish colour. Others have used a Rustoleum product but that proved difficult to obtain but I found a product from Halfords that looked promising. As always I did a test piece using this to see what the results would be like and after the finish colour was applied the effect looked very consistent in texture. At model shows I had previously seen some lifeboat decks that had been ‘texture finished’ and noted that non-textured areas had been carefully masked off. This seems like a great idea and would serve to emphasise the textured effect and also to distinguish it from a very bad spray job! I applied a low tack masking tape to the deck areas and features where I wanted a smooth finish and very carefully trimmed the tape to leave a narrow border, I also masked the positions of the metal deck fittings. Everything else was masked off and the textured spray applied in two very light coats and left to dry. When the masking was removed it revealed a very neat defined border around the foot rails, cabin sides and deck fittings. The deck and cabin sides will be over-sprayed with a couple of light coats of the ‘BS631 RAF Light Grey’ that I have had custom mixed and will be, hopefully, accurate to the prototype. 😁

7 years ago by robbob

Blog

Strips

The pictures are slightly out of sync but no matter...Now ready for the chine (cedar) and from triangular section plasticard strips glued with rubberised cyanoacrylate. Paint used was auto acrylic spray cans; lots of filler primer sanded back and a couple of topcoats.. I thought masking the waterline would be a problem but using thin lengths of blue masking tape to get the line then adding full width with paper mask, it worked out fine.

7 years ago by manyboats

Blog

DAMEN STAN 4207

Removed all the internal components and wiring, then painted the inside of the hull with a light grey paint. The upper hull was sheathed with 1mm ply from the spray rail to the deck. The construction adhesive used to reinforce the bottom sheathing worked so well, used it entirely on the upper. Applied a generous amount to the faying surfaces, then squeezed the excess out and smoothed it into a fillet shape. The forward hull sheathing was left oversize as the drawings show the hull side contours extend up beyond the deck to become plated bulwarks. Once the upper hull sheathing was complete, fitted a series of brass rod stanchions to the foredeck to support both the upper hull sheathing and a section of styrene used to extend this sheathing up to the top of the plated bulwark, as shown in pictures. Have found the stanchions idea helps when butting one thin sheet to another as it reinforces the joint. After the adhesive had cured, the plated bulwark upper edge was gently filed to the correct contour and size. The hull sheathing was covered in glass fibre cloth and resin, which was lipped over the bulwarks and then carried down the inside face to deck level. This adds immeasurably to the stiffness and robustness of the bulwarks. Have always thought hard chine hulls would be easier to make than round bilge ones. This one has proved the opposite, perhaps the raised bulwarks, operable sterngate, RIB well and chine rails have added to the complexity and account for the challenges experienced. The hull has now been covered in glass fibre cloth and resin with the interior painted. This was an opportune time to fit everything and check operation before the rubbing down and finishing was started. Any further modifications could thus be completed without damaging the finished model. All the components were refitted and the operation rechecked.

8 years ago by Rowen

Response

Fitting the side skins.

Hi Paul. Thanks for your encouraging comments. The motor is a Turnigy SK3-4250-500kv brushless outrunner, batteries are 2 x 9.6v NiMh 5000mA, a combination recommended for this boat by VMW. You are not the only one to express a concern on it's potential performance but I'll go with what I have and if indeed it does under perform I can easily up-rate the motor and battery combination. The ESC I have is more that capable apparently. I'm too far down the road to reconfigure to a two motor setup and really I'm building this as a test of my re-awakened model making skills and for the satisfaction of it all rather than terrifying the pond life and myself to boot, assuming I can find a 'pond' that is. The are indeed a nice square profile as you suggest and will hopefully help with the cornering. I'm trying to find out more about the mysterious stern navigation light that appears in a couple 'photos I have seen, I might like to incorporate this in my boat if it's a significant detail...anyone know? This is the sort of constructive criticism that I was hoping to get from other members to my blog so please do chip in if I'm getting it wrong, albeit too late for me but for others building similar boats. By the way, my comments about the fire boat content of the plans and docs section is not intended to offend anyone, but I can't understand why 'copyright issues' means that 'photos and drawings have to be deliberately blurred to render them next to useless, it's like giving someone a book to read and then poking then in the eyes! Rob

8 years ago by robbob

Response

Fitting the side skins.

H Rob, really nice woodwork skills, I am unable to do that! I just rescue other peoples builds and make them pretty! If I may, I have some concerns about your drivetrain, something I have spent a lot of time testing etc. That motor, with nimhs just isn't going to deliver the power needed to push this heavy old girl along, please consider lipo's, or even twin screw, you still have time to do this, its very easy, I did it! As you have seen on the youtube videos, these boats where fast, they handle real great in a straight line, its cornering that things get difficult. One real good tip, make sure the are square profile. HS93 told me this, and it works a treat to aid turning at speeds, this hull wants to roll quite a lot! Regarding the mysterious rear light, I saw a picture years ago, it was blue, we thing it had something to do with pre trial river requirements, I cannot find that info anywhere, so left it off mine. Paul

8 years ago by pmdevlin

Forum

Brushless

I'm no expert on this, so will leave to others. But while wait.I also have one with the original silly size prop thread. So let that alone. Mine runs on brushed at about scale with. Was told on the hull help planing. Regards brushess. if a 1000kv. That means for every battery volt used, it's 1000rpm. So 1000 kV x11.v (lipo) or whatever is used gives motor speed. Personally I'd do what I do,use a similarly size can to the brushed one you have from eBay. A speed control from eBay China . I have some good water proof stupid Amp rating ones. never a moments bother. around £15 I think. Have fun once you get someone more knowledgeable.

8 years ago by Derek

Response

PT 301 (Snuffy Smith)

Motor has been left insitu, Prop shaft found to be vibrating and has now been fixed. Hull stripped back to bare wood and repainted in camoflage. fixed to the hull have made a big difference to stability. Not on the original Aerokits drawings. Can now concentrate on Deans Cossack. Plenty of sheet lead for stability but looks good.

8 years ago by Gabby

Forum

Air Brush

Hi Cormorant, mine was of ebay, not got a name on it, but I would strongly advise get a compressor with a tank, the tank prevents the airbrush chuffing in use, you get a smooth air supply, also get a moisture trap, I have one at both ends of the hose. and a good pressure gauge, practice does make prefect, old cardboard boxes and old paint, practice mixing paint and spraying. Get a good mask, mine is from 3m, again from ebay, and most of all, unless you are painting outside, make very sure you have quality fume extraction, not just a fan!! a spray booth is easy to construct, mine is made from shower curtains from a pound shop, the "rails" are a piece of rope strung from the roof of my shed. Hope this helps Mark

8 years ago by jarvo