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PS Iona - Steering
Fairly standard stuff, the steering. Rudder is made from brass and held to the stainless shaft with glue / pins. There's a chain drive from the servo to the tiller arm, both sides. Servo is accessed from the stern hatch lifting off, and the rear grid (3D printed) also lifts off. Despite having individual drive to each paddle, the rudder is quite useful for steering, although with paddles driven in opposite directions, Iona will turn on the spot. Nice🤓
5 months ago by Harvey Kitten
Vintage Model Works 46'' RAF Crash Tender
Here's the history bit so pay attention...
Many years ago as a boy in the fifth year of my north London secondary school, circa 1971, our woodwork class was given the option to make something of our own choice.
Having mastered the majority of joints, wood turning, finishing techniques and the making of table lamps, stools and bookshelves etc. this seemed a good idea, so myself and a fellow classmate and model making chum asked if we could construct a model boat.
The teacher, on hearing that it was to be from a kit and not from scratch was a little surprised but agreed.
So my friend and I jointly invested about 20 quid in an Aerokits 34.5 inch RAF Crash Tender from Blunts' model shop in Mill Hill (long since gone like many others) and we set about construction during lesson time and sometimes at break times.
I recall we used "Cascamite" to glue it all together on the advice of the woodwork teacher because neither 'Scotch' glue nor PVA was suited to marine construction.
Good progress was made over the course of our last year at school but it was never fully completed, only requiring painting, running gear and detailing.
My friend decided that he needed to withdraw from the project as he was enrolling in a college away from home to study for a career in the merchant navy and I agreed to buy out his share and continue with the project.
And so it was that I carried on with the painting and installing the running gear which consisted of a 1.5 cc marine diesel engine, water pickup, prop shaft and rudder and a MacGregor radio system with a stick for steering and a single button for speed control.
The engine and radio came from Michael's Models in Finchley (also long gone) for £20 as my elder brother, who had started a Saturday job there, was able to get a staff discount for me.
The diesel engine was noisy and smelly and a pig to start with a leather thong around the flywheel and I decided to abandon this means of propulsion (I foolishly ran it for slightly too long 'dry' and melted the soldering around the brass water jacket!).
By now I had graduated from my part time job in Woolies to an engineering apprentice with Post Office Telephones and my new income of 20 quid per week could support my modelling and electronics hobbies after my contribution to the household for my keep.
So off to the model shop to buy a Taycol Supermarine electric motor, two 12v volt lead acid batteries and a suitable charger.
The diesel came out and was sold on Exchange & Mart and the mount and coupling re-made to accommodate the new Taycol motor.
What an improvement that was!
I can't remember now what speed controller or servo I used but whatever it was did the job, and it went like the clappers on Friary Park boating lake (also long since gone) even though the radio control system was a bit crude with the non-proportional steering and 'blip' throttle control.
The boating took a back seat when I acquired my driving licence and my first car (a rusty old Cortina Mk 1) and I also got involved in sound recording for radio.
I decided to sell the boat and bits for £60 through Exchange & Mart and bought an Akai 4000DS tape recorder and a 'Chilton' audio mixer, built a home studio and along with a good mate of mine started making radio commercials for the new commercial radio stations including London's Capital Radio.
We even won a 'Campaign' advertising award for one of our efforts! And so after several years as a 'phone engineer I moved into professional recording for A/V and broadcast and then into TV production.
Fast forward to today.
Semi-retired with grand kids and with more free time on my hands I still had an interest in model making so in Jan 2016 went to the Model Engineer exhibition at nearby 'Ally Pally'.
It was there that I saw an RAF crash tender just like the one I built all those years ago and got into conversation with the chap on the stand.
This re-ignited my model making interests and I researched the hobby and that model in particular.
3 years ago by robbob
Chris-Craft Special Runabout
OK, you know and I know that this is an Aerokits Sea Hornet, BUT, with a little reworking, it becomes a very passable Chris Craft Special (sometimes Custom) Runabout. One cockpit, long engine deck. I think it suits the Sea Hornet shape and proportions very well. Generally, I think too much is expected to be going on with a basic Hornet and the deck furniture is too simplistic.
Also, don't be tempted to call this one a barrel back They had one continuous curve right over the transom from chine to chine, whereas this hull and the Special Runabout had a break, albeit a small one at the deck level.
Anyway, I redecked the Hornet with 1/16th" ply, leaving the engine hatch long. I also had to make a small hatch at the stern to service the tiller and its connection. Then I realised I would never be able to get to the two starboard screws that hold the
in, so a wee hatch went in over them too. That will be held in with a small magnet and just popped up from inside the engine 'ole hatch.
Because the hull needed filling and various repairs, I decided to paint it, but veneer plank the deck. many Chris-Crafts were painted and I think this one in a nice off-white with a varnished Mahogany and pear deck will look just the job with nickel plated deck furniture, made in brass and nickel silver and plated in nickel to look like chrome in scale. Chrome is a) difficult to get these days and b) too bright and garish on a model.
The hull has been epoxied and rubbed down then brush panted heavily with cellulose primer surfacer. This rubs down a treat ready for a sprayed enamel top coat or three.
11 months ago by Westquay
Cheap motor for a quick fit, but what prop gents?...
yes, very similar sizes. (Nice finish on your Sea Hornet, btw. Mine cost me 99p off ebay!). My drill motor is from a 14.4Volt one, if I can find it! OR, I'll buy a 20,000 rev one from ebay. Roughly the same I should think. I'm going brushed because I have ESCs to use up, apart from the one or two for the Taycols, thanks to your kind provision of electro-boards. I was thinking 30-35mm prop. so that's good to have confirmed. This is actually the first full installation I've ever done in a model boat. My Sea Urchin is free running, the Crash Tender was installed by my Dad with REP single channel stuff and I once put a rudder servo in my brother's borrowed 575 yacht. Everything else (and that's a lot) has been static.
Just got the
mounted and made a sweet wee box for the Rx to help prevent it getting wet.
11 months ago by Westquay
Charging NiMhs, one for Doug?...
Evenin' Martin, Just back from 'nosh' with Gisela, my camera girl in the vid!
She's mean like that too, keeps me hoppin' about like the proverbial cat on the proverbial hot stuff 😡
Can't wait to see the rotating teddy👍 Put a couple of mini Cam lenses in his eyeballs and you'll get a terrific 360° First Person View from the driving seat😁
Re Sea Scout,
I took your advice and did the hull in Royal Blue (no navy knickers!😆) or what passes for that here. Anyway I'm pleased how she turned out.
OK, I admit I accidentally turned her into a Sport Fishing Boat😁
She's 24" what scale do you think that makes her?
I'm looking for crew figures and stuff to fit out the cockpit but I'm not sure what size to look for. I thought maybe 1/20 i.e. a 40 footer? Waddya think?
Re Kako; while recently trying (fruitlessly🤔) to make space in the workshop (got two renovations on the go in parallel - saves getting the same tools, rattle cans an' stuff out twice!😁) I ran across the original Kakos and Mabuchis I used in my scratch 53" H class destroyer Hotspur in 1966. She ran off a 4.5V EverReady flat (form not volts😁) battery until Granny took pity and bought me some 6V Lantern batteries!
I ran 'em up on a power supply and they turned but now sound like mini football rattles! Think they need new big end shells 😁 Jeez, how many guys under pension age have ever been down to the bitza bazaar looking for 50 thou oversize bearing shells and compression and oil control rings??
Pics show her Sea trials in Radnor Park pond, Folkestone, Kent, summer 1966. Sorry about the quality, only had a Box Brownie 127 in those days and could only afford Gratispool free B/W films🤔 Pentax? Canon? Sony? Not to mention Digital? HD? Wassat? 50 years on I got all three😉
I like Lupins too, preferably the blue and purple ones.
BTW, for your steering guy's arms you don't need a separate RC function or channel! You just need a coupling from the rudder control to turn a pulley and cord which turns a suitably scaled pulley attached to the wheel axis. The arms are fixed to the wheel and go with it! Dead simple (to write anyway😁) and no lecktrickery! 😊
OR you could just put one of his hands on the wheel and the other on the throttle. Then use a 'Y' cable to split the ESC cable into two.
Connect the second output to a servo which moves the throttle lever via a push-me-pull-you-rod, pulleys and cord or gears or whatever. Sure you can figure out the mechanics better than I.
Whatever, have fun and don't electrocute yourself, keep your socks dry😉 Cheers, Doug 😎
1 year ago by RNinMunich
LED Tug Mast Navigation Lights
Thanks again, Doug.
Am I correct in thinking that the circuit board in the pilot house is the only one on the boat? Does that one board include the receiver, speed control, sound & light functions & an output for the
? For some reason I thought there was another board under the big hatch on the deck behind the pilot house. I haven’t been able to remove that hatch (yet) but I will. I want to familiarize myself with the entire boat, so I’ll have to get that hatch open. I thought it would pop up by pressing the square spring-loaded button but no luck. Later this morning I’ll pry it carefully with the same thin blade I used to get the pilot house roof off.
I’m probably the only Hobby Engine tugboat owner on this site who hasn’t removed that hatch to see what’s inside. But that’ll change later today.
Full speed ahead!
1 year ago by PittsfieldPete
Hi all and thanks to Ron and Doug I have not forgotten about the TGY-i6 set and have looked at the suggestions from Ron. I looked at a lot of stuff it can be a bit of mine field, I have fond this at Cornwall models Servo, Batteries, Charger & 15A ESC This pack provides the radio control unit and all items necessary to complete an RC boat kit. Certain models may need a motor Contents: 2-Channel transmitter Reflex Pro 3.1 2.4GHZ 5-Channel receiver, CS-3
(3kg/cm force) Transmitter batteries, 7.2v/2100mAh drive battery 15Amp Marine Electronic Speed Controller Plug charger Multi-lingual instructions Part No: CMBRCP15 I think this may be the way for me to go as it seem to have all the things I need to learn about in the one package, I know I may have to up grade some parts but for the first timer I think it would do your opinions would be much appreciated
1 year ago by teejay
Servo choice for yacht
Me again. I am finding the choice of servos mind-numbingly huge. I feel I should have a new
for Vanity. I have a lot of other servos kicking around and I can only assume they work on a modern Orange Rx, but I'm thinking even a tight wad like me can justify a new servo. I would like it to be a bit lower than the Futaba I currently have out as it has to operate below the bottom of the winch drum and take two Bowden cables to the rudder as the rudder shaft is steeply raked, so only cable operation will do.
Any suggestion welcome. I don't need speed or even especially accuracy, although reliability would be nice. 4.8volts too please.
1 year ago by Westquay
Vanity, Victorian Cutter
R/C gear going in on a 2 piece plank, so it'll fit through the hatches.
Some deck planks going on, king plank too. Coamings to help water proof from splash. These are Foamex, completely waterproof stuff. The hatches and houses will be fitted with magnets eventually.
The planking is NOT a la yacht. For some reason Dan Hatcher laid deck planks like workboats and motor boats, parallel to the King plank, not the covering boards. Believe me when you've lived on one of these and put every pot you have under the deck leaks when it rains, you know the pattern of the laid deck!
Rear deck half just rested on as the R/C gear is yet to be finished. Waiting for some more allly tube to guide the steering cables and braided line for the sheet control.
coming this afternoon.
1 year ago by Westquay
Radio in a yacht
Whilst I can make almost anything, I have absolutely no idea how to install modern R/C gear in a model, much less a yacht.
I have an Orange Rx which has 6 channels for some reason, but I only need 2. BTW, when did functions become channels? I grew up with proportional being 2 channels per function. Anyway, that's a 2.4 doodah. I have a GWS sail winch a drum jobbie. I also have a few different servos for the rudder, but I don't know what voltage they are. I will stuff 4 pen cells in a holder and therefore get 4.8 volts, is that right? This will all fit a treat on a removable piece of ply which I can secure with a slider at one end and a wingnut at tother. Said ply with all gear will slide through the main companionway with that item removed.
So, how do I know which servos will work for steering? Will they work with a 2.4 Gg set? Or must I buy new? Will the Rx be OK sited near the battery pack and servos? And how the hell does one "bind" the Tx to the Rx? I've had the Tx for 3 years and it ain't yet out of its box. It's a Spektrum Dx5e. I'm using NiMhs in the battery pack as I don't understand LiPos and will only be using the yacht occasionally. And I can charge NiMhs with a wall charger. I have fancy metallic blue thing that does everything, but the Chenglish instructions defeated me, so it hasn't been out of its box either. (Get the impression I ain't big on working models, folks?)
Any info/instructions/encouragement gratefully recieved.
And anything helpful about rigging the damned thing under the deck is welcome too! No idea where to start there. I have very limited space through companionways and deck lights which are all removable, but smallish, if evenly spaced.
1 year ago by Westquay
the superconductor is coming on ok just using photos and adjusting the scale .I,ve used a snake for the steering as ther doen't seem to be enough room for a servo near to the rudders .I,ve found a small motor in my bits and fitted that to the bow thrusters.I,e had the radio connected to and everything seems to work ok so 'i've glued the deck in place .I need to put some strengtheners in the main cabin as it will need to support the mast assembly.
I am stuggling to get the curved bits right for the bow and the front of the bridge but will get it right eventually
1 year ago by spitfiresooty
Somebody was either disillusioned with model boats or impecunious to the Nth degree because he let me have this BRAND NEW Ripmax Tomkat complete with Motor, ESC, brand new
,action man driver,decals and instructions for a brownie with a bluey postage.
Not my usual type of model but will make a fun change down at our 'postage stamp' lake (?)
1 year ago by bilzin
Another of my Foam hulled, own designs using an own design Azipod thruster with B/L motor submerged and running in water. Steering by sail winch servo via geared pulleys, can rotate unit 360 degrees. Hope to put build write up in MB mag. Wierd model that turns in its own length and is powerful enough to clear the weeds on the pond (and break ice!) (Motor: Own Azipod Drive) (10/10)
2 years ago by ronrees
Hobby Engine Richardson Upgrade
Neville, toilet rolls, problem, especially if you have a cat!!!.
3 screws at the stern, 1 central 2 at the corners under bollards, leaver up with thin screwdriver.
1 each side of the rear deck hatch.
1 each side opposite the cabin rear hold down bollards screw fitted in inboard side of each one.
1 each side rear of the forward hatch.
1 each side forward hatch, again hidden by bollard screw from side.
3 in the bow area.
PS all screws in the deck are under small plastic plugs, be gentle with them as you want to put them back to seal the deck again.
You should have 14 screws now, the deck is sealed with a gasket, 'O' ring, and what seems like Vaseline, and splits at the rubbing strip just behind the tyre fenders, might need a bit of a pull, going round the hull as you go. Once the deck is off, it is all in front of you.
Looking down into the hull, there is a black battery plate, held down with 4 screws, the receiver and the on/off switch.
I have kept the plate, but cutaway the dividing 'walls' was needed, for the new receiver etc to fit.
It is not big enough for the buggy type battery, so i glued a thin platform on top for the battery to sit on. Battery is held with self adhesive velcro pads to keep it in place.
'Central hull' is the motors and gearbox, follow the long Red and Black wires back to the receiver and cut them as close to the receiver as you can, ready to wire into the ESC, i used a 'chocolate' block, 10ah.
Stearn is the servo and steering linkage, nothing needed here just a smear of grease to lubricate. A couple of drops of oil on the ends of the propshaft won't go amiss.
'Battery position', i have mine on the radio plate, but with care and a little trimming you can fit it across the hull, above the propshafts, or with care between the propshafts, fore and aft. Make sure there is a side plate fitted to stop the battery fouling the rudder servo.
Hope this is clear, don't force the deck be gentle
2 years ago by jarvo
I think those doublers will need explosives to get them off...
I've hit a bit of a roadblock with the big K7, I need to get Donald built up so I can position the steering wheel & dash correctly, the animatronic resin upper torso & arms I bought came with no instructions or info on what servos to use. I got some micro servos & they didn't fit, Dremel out & all fits now but I'm now struggling with connecting the servo arm to the rotating neck. I'll suss it out eventually but I need a rest.
I've been doing bits on my 1/12 scale K7 in the background, if all goes well it should be ready for paint in a couple of weeks.
As normal I've been waiting for parts to arrive from China, the brushless motor & esc arrived today for the blue rigger, I can make a start on that soon..
I've just finished printing the parts for the cabin for a Springer tug hull I got from Sonar & I've just started printing the first parts of a WW2 landing craft, its 1/16 scale nearly a metre long, I guess I'll be making a tank for it when it's completed.
Then there's the Robbe Diabolo, on the instructions it says to use self tapping screws to hold the plastic dual rudders in place. No good to me as I've upgraded to dual aluminium rudders, these buggers need bolts!
Trouble is the waterproof electronics box is used as a doubler for the central transom, when it's glued into place there isn't any room to access where the rudder bolts come through the doublers, ohhh the joy of problem solving....
So I'm keeping busy but my butter is spread a bit too thin.
2 years ago by Midlife306
Tug 'DHB Dauntless'
Scratch Built 1:32 scale Dover Harbour Board Tug, DHB Doughty.
The main hull is a standard Damen hull purchased from Mobile Marine Models, see their website for Portgarth.
the hull is fitted with 2 x T12 Motors for the main propulsion,2 x 60 degree kort nozzles for steering, with 2 x purpose made brass props.
Also fitted is a 12v Graupner water pump for the working fire monitor and Fwd spray bar, 2 x Mtronks 15 amp ESC's, Futaba
and Futaba 40 MHz Receiver.
Approx Dimensions including fendering Loa 41" Beam 14"
3 years ago by barnet
Aerokits Sea Urchin Sea Nymph
Hi Harleydream1, I like what you have done with the Sea Urchin, its hard to see in the image but are you operating the tiller steering with lines run forward to a servo?
Many thanks Jon
3 years ago by jonbliss152
Sailing a straight line
I appreciate all the good ideas and suggestions. I'm going to work through the list in an order which I think will be easiest and/or most effective.
Starting off with increasing the rudder size by mechanically attaching something grossly oversize. if that works, I'll reduce the size step by step to find out what's the minimum size that makes sense. The rudders at present are oversize compared to the plan of the original.
One of my early fixes attempted was to attach a 1" deep brass plate about 20" long under the bottom centreline of the hull as an external keel. I considered that would make a big improvement, but it made no difference.
Steering control has a servo rotating a toothed pulley. The toothed drive belt goes around it and the two rudder pulleys. The toothed belt ensures the rudders move and stay synchronized.
3 years ago by Trillium
Poor run time
I have the Sea Queen which has a Jp C50-20 brushless motor.
I use a 12v lead acid battery as power supply.
The battery powers the motor and the
My issue is that when fully charged the boat gets up goes very well,however after about 10 mins I can have the throttle stick wide open and it's hardly moving.
When I use my % tester on the battery afterwards it tells me I have 60% left.
If that's the case way won't it go.
Seems a false economy to charge a battery for hours for so little run time.
Should I change to a different power supply or am I doing something wrong.
3 years ago by randhbarker
ok here we go you will need a mixer a v tail mixer should do the job
that's waterproof! you will also need to use a "Y" lead so you can take a rudder feed to your rudder servo. That way your motors should give steering in addition to the rudder.
A bow thruster would be on its own channel.
NB. if you have 2 LIPOs and intend to run each motor from its own LIPO you HAVE to have a connection between the negatives from each battery so the negative rail is common.
The feed from the ESCs to the mixer should solve that for you.
if your ESCs give BEC you need to remove the positive "servo wire" from one of the ESC or you may fry your receiver.
3 years ago by Haverlock
Servo current draw.
I can't find the cem040 drive via google but U -tube produced https://youtu.be/qDYKT4M8eUY. The steering is continuous on this design but other units suggest 90deg servos scaled up to 180deg. in this case they will need to be metal gear and high tork. I would suggest speaking to some one at Servo Shop in Frodsham as they stock many servos and should be able to offer you advice on the correct servo.
Sorry the ( ) plus sign was omitted from my last post and does refer to positive
3 years ago by Dave M
Servo current draw.
Thanks for that Haverlock,what a can of worms,there are at least 2500 different types so where do you start when deciding which ones to use ?
Going back to the feeds for the servo it looks like the three wires are pos,neg and what I call a trigger wire,so as long as they come from the same power source that's fine ?
I am building a harbour tug with azimuth schottel drives with 180 degree steering and using astern for the other 180 if that makes sense both drives independent of each other. is there a gyroscopic reaction that would make it necessary to use heavier servos ?
3 years ago by Stour-boy
(Tug Boat) 'Westbourne' PLA Tug
Westbourne is a Port of London Authority steam Tug from the Caldercraft Mini-Fleet Range - it is 1:48 scale. This model was discontinued a few years ago but I did manage to purchase a brand new boxed one via ebay a couple of years ago. it has taken me about 18 month to complete but only working off and on for some time until recently when I decided I needed to get a move on with it. The hull has limited access for the RC, batteries,
and motor but I have managed to fit it in neatly with access to all parts, I have fitted batteries on both sides amidships in the hull acting as both ballast and stability. I have now run my tug on our club pond and she sits perfectly on the water and no other ballast required. I originally installed a geared motor at 2.5:1 and I thought that the tug was sailing a little faster than I wanted so I changed to my 6:1 setup but the speed and control was poor, so I went back to my original set up. On the whole I am very pleased at how she has turned out. Now started on my Northlight Clyde Puffer. (Motor: MFA) (ESC: Viper 15 Marine) (9/10)
3 years ago by ads90
12v so ok there
2200mAh that's fine.
Duration ( takes a deep breath) it depends upon your prop and how free your shaft etc. is.
Max efficiency is at 8A so 22/8= 2.75 hours.
HOWEVER your not going to get that!!!
You lose some current to the esc. and if you have a bec. to your receiver and
Added to this is the fact that the battery voltage will fall so speed will reduce.
figure 30 min to 1 hour.
4 years ago by Haverlock
Getting wiring to be neat
My boat a twice scale Cariad, has two drum sail winches, one arm sail winch, a
, a speed controller and a motor. These have all been installed but not wired up yet. To wire them up I have a lot of wires! How would you fix these wires so as to look neat but functional?
The first photo is the main board containing the motor, receiver and speed controller. There is also a bus bar where I was planning on having all the main electrical connections meeting up. The second photo is similar but looking towards the stern. Two of the sail winches are just visible. The third picture is looking towards the bow where the other drum winch is installed (the threaded rod is for raising and lowering the mast for transportation). The last photo is of the rudder servo at the stern.
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
4 years ago by cenbeth
HI Haverlock, I've built a quad copter from scratch before now which includes GPS, gyros and accelerators. The system can be programmed also for model cars (see http://rover.ardupilot.com) but I don't see why it couldn't be also used for boats, it's the same principle except steering would be done through the rudder and not wheels.
You could easily build some Arduino software to do this too. You'd need an arduino board, GPS module, probably compass module too. Arduino PWM outputs are perfect inputs to servos and ESC's.
One problem perhaps though, is that GPS alone is not wholly accurate. it can be out by 2-5 meters at best.... more likely 10 meters. On a calm day you could probably rely on the compass alone, but I don't think GPS will keep it on course accurately enough.
Interested to see this working!
4 years ago by Fireboat
E.M.Cotter fire boat ready for sea try outs
Kept running gear simple Electronic speed control
Airtronics 2.4 G.hz. transmitter
4 years ago by GARTH
All In place
Here the motor and
have been mounted properly. The motor is as near in line with the prop shaft as possible.
All wood bits have been yacht-varnished before being glued in.
The speed controller is a Mtroniks Viper 20.
5 years ago by GrahamSmith
Metcalf Mouldings - ''The Scout'' Waveney Class Lifeboat
Had a good look at the Action stuff today and found the P40D at £28-00p which sounds promising, brief description from the website:
"Connects to the Throttle and Steering outputs from the Rx and automatically slows down the motor on the inside of a turn when a rudder command is given. Four user-selectable degrees of mix to suit models from fast launches to very manouverable workboats. Works with both brushed and brushless speed controllers. ABS case 45.5mm x 32mm x 20mm with onboard connectors for the two outer speed controllers/motors, one centre speed controller/motor (if used) and the
, thus eliminating the need to purchase extra 'Y' leads."
What did you think of the motors and speed controllers? Found a couple of compatible motors slightly more powerful on Hobby King at less than half the price 💭
This internet a wonderful thing but the more use I make of it the more confused I get 😯
5 years ago by Flack
hi, Iv bought a mobile marine lady jan........its a completed model......its running a t12 motor.......electronize fr15hvr esc......and a futaba
all good so far...I bought a planet 2.4g 5 channel radio for It......I put the radio In, the esc worked fine,the
threw a wobbler when you turn the transmitter on.......the
stopped working........I replaced the servo with a cheapy from the local model shop.that did the same..so I changer the receaver and tranny to an analog set and the
still playing up doing the same.swapped the esc for a new mtronics esc still the same...iv swapped the wiring extension to the
Incase that had shorted even took the servo out the boat and collected It straight to the receaver..the main 12v battery Is charged up.........................iv had a fare amount to do with rc cars mainly fg 5th scale and nitro.....this has got me completely lost...PLEASE HELP!!!!! 😭
5 years ago by grace
Stern deck fitted
A bit further today. I fitted a Stern deck, needs to be removable to access rudder and
6 years ago by chrislang
Further to my request last August for a source of 8-9cm diameter Paddles which was satisfied by Stephen producing some for me.
The prolonged wet spell has finally got me doing something with the hull & wheels I now have.
Please allow that I have no machine tools and only a little cluttered shed, and probably minimal skills. But I publish this in the hope that it might encourage others to have a go.
So far I've fitted deck supports and boxed in the bow section as a (hopefully waterproof) chamber, Sourced a 'Heng Long' 1/16th Tank motor & gear chain which via some old 'Meccano'gears will drive the Paddle Wheels. The bushes for the paddle drive shaft are cut from an old stern tube. Also I've mounted a
and made a rudder assembly from some brass scrap, the rudder arm is a suitably drilled and filed brass negative pin from an old 13A plug.
I've also painted Stephen's wheels, which seem to be taking forever to dry!
More as it happens!
6 years ago by chrislang
Victory Industries Vosper Fire Boat RC conversion part 3
So to the steering. Before we start, all the wire used in this was kindly donated by various paperclips of different sizes. First cut a hole in the cockpit floor around the embossed hatch markings and adding the 2 semI circular extensions to give access to the tops of the rudder shafts. Make sure to leave an adequate lip to mount a false floor over the hole and make a watertight join. Attached is a jpeg file of the shape of the floor to act as a template but the resultant floor will need fettling to get a good fit. This is supposed to be a pdf file but I can't upload that so I can't guarantee the size. I recommend cutting a thick paper or thin card one first to check for problems before cutting a plastic one. I made mine out of 1mm plastic and to avoid an ugly gap around the steps I shortened slots for the sides of the steps by about 1mm and the chamfered the ends of the slots so they rest against the steps. The original hatch is marked on the pdf so when transferring the shape down you can pin prick through to mark the corners and then draw the hatch, I used the point of a pair of dividers.
Fitting a small servo between the humps where the prop shafts exit the hull seemed a good idea. There is a central lug to the rear of these that is used to mount the battery box on some boats that offered a handy mounting point for a base plate to mount the mechanism on. The base plate was made to fit comfortably between the humps to locate it sideways and long enough to fit over the lug and be screwed down. The mounting for the servo was glued to this plate. (Photo 4)
6 years ago by smiggy
(Racing Boat) LYNX 47
PRESTWICH MODEL BOATS LYNX 47, with fully modified 29.5cc Zenoah 9, arrowshark water cooled tuned pipe, twin 6mm stern water inlets, 1/4 inch flexI drive through stern mounted strut, ,high torque
, Zenoah easy start fitted, and lots more all purchased from Prestwich model boats and fitted by me. (Motor: FULL MODIFIED ZEN 9) (5/10)
6 years ago by hydroman
HI all. Thought you might like some of the bits I made. it will be cable steering, the rudder extension is a prototype and will be redesigned if it works. Servo mount looks cool.
6 years ago by galactictoad
Maggie B a modified Southampton
this is the Maggie B she is a modified Sothampton R T R tug. there is a video of her in the video section. the main casing was taken off and the lower three quarters of it was cut off, so that it reduced the overall height., she is fitted with two M tronic speed controllers and a new larger5,000millI amp battery which is fitted across the hull behind the motors and in front of the
, she still has the original props but they are now turnig outwards to go ahead. she is now a very handy and stable boat.
6 years ago by modeltugman
HI Frank I have built model of jolie brise from plans I got from France made few years ago as static model, I have made uo a false keel that I can fit as and when I get round to making sails, have provision for steering via chords running thro the deck in tubes to the
, as yet no thought as to how to install sail winch as have only small openings where hatches fit. you are right about her being pilot cutter and winning fastnet 3 times, she was however built by Monsieur Paumelle in 1913, I hope at some time to get her on the water.
7 years ago by chiffs
Thankyou for the photos and information. I had not thought of laying the servo on it's side.It works much better and operates smoother than upright. Thankyou again.Regards Keith
7 years ago by Keith
I am trying to connect a servo to the rudder.It has been over 40 years since I have done this. I am having trouble. I am restoring a 34 Inch Fireboat.Iam using a an XQ Power S2025D servo Any help would be appreciated.Maybe a photo.Thankyou Regards Keith
7 years ago by Keith
I restored my 34" Fireboat, and yes the space available does not allow an upright mounted servo. Not sure of the details re your servo but mine uses a standard size servo mounted sideways. You can then place a sunken deck over the fitting and retain the correct appearance. I am attaching photos of my model and the installation including the rudder detail. I used a brushless motor and LiPo to keep the weight down.
Hope this helps.
7 years ago by Dave M
(Pleasure Craft) century
this one started out with vector thrust but I stripped out the cheap & nasty insides and put in my own
,esc,rudder & radio gear.
great to just mess about with. (Motor: twin 380's) (6/10)
7 years ago by hydroman
60 Inch crash tender
You can if you so wish, stay with a single rudder, but needs to be a fair size for it to be able to cope with twin props as you do say, you will fit twin rudders. if fitting twin rudders, you only need to fit a "rod link run a single rod to a single servo, this then covers the steering point.
by running twin motors, allows you to fit 2 smaller capacity motor controllers [esc's], "M troniks" are some of the simplest to install and waterproof too. if you purchase a servo "Y" lead, it will allow you to link the 2 motor controllers together and still ooperate from the single point on the reciever. remember to cut ONE of the REd wires on ONE of the motor controllers before you connect to a power supply. This is to ensure that only one of the controllers acts as the power supply to the reciever.
power wise, I dare say that a pair of 25 amp esc's will now suffice and cover the load without problem. prop wise, I would recommend starting with a pair of 45 or 50mm 3 blade brass jobs, raboesch do some nice kit and you wont go far wrong.
As for battery, be careful with the weigth of a lead/acid battery, you could overload the hull and no matter what size of motor you fit, the hull will be too heavy to get any speed out of. You may prefer to run with either a pair of 12v nimh sticks, or even 11.1v Lipo packs for lightness.
I can forward soem wiring and rudder setup sketches for you, but unable to add to this type of message, so if you kindly "pm" me with your email address, I will send direct, no problem. 👍
7 years ago by Gregg
SbambI 34'' Fireboat Renovation
Thanks for the response, Balsabasher. it has taken me about one & a half years to complete working on the boat when I had some spare time.
Look forward to meeting you at Hartsholme Lake. I had a similar problem with the steering and found that the plastic rudder servo arm I fitted was slipping on the brass rudder shaft as I could not tighten the screw enough, I decided to replace the plastic rudder servo arm with one I made out of aluminium I also filled a flat on the rudder shaft and fitted a setscrew and lock-nut to the aluminium servo arm so that once the steering is setup I can lock the arm properly. Don't have any more problems now with steering.
8 years ago by sbambi
my Sea Rover project
following a couple new modifications my sea rover has been re motored with a vision 600 without the two torque rings , now running a 7.2 or 9.6 battery pack fitted under the rear floor , Ive also reinstated the box at the stern which has my
mounted underneath it , the "box is to full deck height with a removable top for servo acsess , Ive included a helm position c/w a period helmsman ( hes still got his teddy boy quiff ! ) although Ive not fitted the roof over the cockpit , Ive also cut a door into the front cabin , which will in time have a pair of opening barn doors & a small hinged top hatch over them . working 3mm led navigation and cabin lamps have also been fitted although Ive used a more modern cover for them , After looking through one of my magazines the sea rover bears a very close resembelance to a moody 27 gentlemans sports boat of the mid sixties !
9 years ago by triumphjon
DGzRS Graupner Lifeboat
This boat, craft,vessel,ship [call It what you wish - Im not arguing] Was originally designed to have a rescue net suspended between the forward steering position and 2 aerial posts on the forward deck. to be honest Ive studied the drawings and It looks really awful when Installed on the model, plus Ive decided to build a slightly later version of this boat, so now Ive mounted a fire monitor on the forward deck, just In front of the steering cabin, so having a rescue net suspended above this would be crazy, as anyone landing In It would hit the fire monitor below It. So didnt want to bin the net, still wanted a rescue net onboard, so what to do?
Silliest of Ideas, why not make It a "collapsing net", operated by a servo? So after a bit of scribbling on some paper, bit of brass wire bending/shaping, here goes [see pic's]. It folds flat [ish] against the side of the main cabin, then at press of servo, extends sideways to full width, allowing passengers/victims aboard sinking vessel to jump down on to the net, clamber across and on to the upper deck of the boat. Well, these rescue boats normally pull alongside a stricken vessel anyway, so why not use this for victims on higher levels than the rescue boat?
Perhaps I ought to be In rescue/design [ha ha].
10 years ago by Gregg
2.4ghz radio gear
I have this set. I agree the instructions are not easy to follow but they are helpful once you understand the terms used. My set has a ratchet on the left up down stick and I find this best. As you say you can set the throttle and concentrate on the steering. As delivered the throttle control gave no control at the centre position and forward up reverse down. if your set doesn't then someone has altered the settings. You have not said if this was a new or used set, but if it was new it could be faulty and I would take it back to the supplier. However you can test the functions quite simply on the bench. Connect up all four servos to the receiver, add a battery supply, switch on the tranny then the receiver. Once the lights show green you can move each stick in turn and see what the servos do. Hopefully they all work off one stick. if not you may have a mixing function setup but hopefully restoring factory defaults has removed this setting. The servo controlled by the throttle stick is the one you need to adjust. With the set switched on press the mode switch.
The system will show the trim settings for each channel in turn, you can adjust the trim for any channel by pressing the trim adjustment up or down to centre your servo - the display will stay on your chosen stick whilst you adjust. To make other adjustments press both mode and select together. This identifies the model (1 to 6) for which you will adjust settings. You select the model with the up/down switch to the right of the display. Then press the mode switch, this will scroll through all the settings. You change the stick number(1-4) using select then use the up/down switch to alter the setting on the screen. As you alter the setting the servo will respond so you can see what you have set. When finished press mode and select together and your settings are saved. By setting each of your models up this way saves ages. Just remember to select the correct model number before you switch on the receiver. My only criticism of the set is the three letters available to identify the model. Otherwise a brilliant set.
Hope this helps
10 years ago by Dave M
sorry for the lack of posts
well I was able to do a few bits this weekend on the boat first time since the last post, I have started to mount the
, for a long time I have used this methoud to mount servoes from my days in 12th cars, I find it is neat and makes changing a quick job, cannot stand it when people use double sided tape or just glue them in , I think they need to be secure but with a bit of play in the link,not a lot 1/16 " thats all , I also think you have to be semetrical to get equal throw .anyway hear is the mount Ill try and fit it and put a picture of that on as well I have made the rudders and link and will take a picture of that as well
11 years ago by Peter HS93
Grey Funnel Steamers built by Bob Blease
This model is a British "Hunt" Class destroyer.
It is a Sirmar limited edition (100) semI kit at 1/48 scale and some 6 feet in length. When he bought the model it was already constructed, but as a static model. So out came the jigsaw, Manual NOT powered.
The deck around the aft gun turret was cut to allow a good inspection of the inside of the hull. He tried to remove the bridge superstructure but this would have meant destroying it to remove. Out came the jigsaw again and cut an access hatch in the main deck.
was fitted and attached ( by keyhole surgery ) and 2 x MFA 800 motors were fitted. Scale Prop Shop Props were fitted and the radio gear just jury rigged for her first trial. She was roughly ballasted with 2 x 12volt 7Ah batteries and she was ready for her first trials.
She sailed well with no water ingress to the hull, so the radio gear was installed properly with individual speed controllers to each motor. The results are as seen here.