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    Blog
    F-14 Upgrade soon to Arrive!
    Now once the upgrade to the F-14. Arrives I'll be able to install it! I have found miniture switches. From Cornwall Model Boats! Which I'll be using for her lights! I source quite a bit from here. As here in the states there's it's very limited. What, I can find here by the way of model
    supplies
    ! As a matter of fact! All of my
    supplies
    have come from CMB. All except the smokers. That, I'll be putting in the Smit Nederland build!
    2 months ago by figtree7nts
    Response
    Re: Smit Nederland Model!
    Hi Martin, It sure does! I'm paciently waiting for the kit and
    supplies
    to arrive! Aw, I'm dieing from antisipation! I can't even track the model. So, I can only count the days left! And my
    supplies
    well, they'll get here sooner or later!
    2 months ago by figtree7nts
    Blog
    Smit Nederland Model!
    8 more days and counting! She's on her way. I don't know exactly where she is! All I know is she'll be here in 8 days! I'm hoping earlier though!🤞 But, I'm still waiting for other
    supplies
    to arrive as well!
    2 months ago by figtree7nts
    Blog
    Batteries and Charger!
    And other
    supplies
    were ordered today! I also had to order some metric drills. I only had a few american standard drills! I also ordered some wood glue! I know I should of asked before ordering. I ordered some Admiralty Glues Water Resistant PVA Wood Glue 200ml! I hope this was a correct purchase! The batteries should be here in a few days time!
    2 months ago by figtree7nts
    Forum
    Krick and Hobbyking
    I second that Pete👍 I buy most of my
    supplies
    from Krick. A few more esoteric odd and ends from Hobbyking/Hobbywing. So far no complaints at all, and very quick delivery from Krick, often next day.😊 Doug😎
    2 months ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Night Watch
    Dispatch recd. with thanks Chief, Seven days leave granted. For his determined and successful action under fire PO Errol T Cat is herewith awarded the Feline Distinguished Service Medal (FSDM) and promoted Lt. jg with immediate effect. Command of San Jacinto and Red River Patrol is confirmed. Congratulations to him and crew, BRAVO ZULU👍 Red River Patrol is authorised to carry out SEAL raids on the Oklahoma shores to augment Catnip
    supplies
    . Sig: Adm. Fleet Commander. Message Ends.😎
    2 months ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Work with Balsa wood
    Hi All, Really surprised at all this "too short" only 18" stuff😮 I buy my balsa
    supplies
    from Krick here in DE. https://www.krickshop.de/e-vendo.php?shop=krick_e&SessionId=&a=re_search&SearchStr=searchfield_technic_0%3Abalsaholz&select=brand%3DKRICK Can still get 1m lengths of sheets and profiles. 😊 Get a stock in chaps and chapesses, before Boris Yellow Hammer mucks everything up!☹️ Snag is no local shops where you can "taste and try". So far so good though with Krick. If it's a bit soft I harden it with diluted EzeKote like Colin👍 Surely SLEC etc must also have decent lengths? (Not what Alice might be thinking Nerys 😮 keep her under control! 😉) Cheers, Doug 😎 PS Our posts crossed DG, thanks for the SLEC confirmation👍)
    3 months ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Work with Balsa wood
    If you are having trouble finding dope, try full sized aircraft
    supplies
    . They may sell it in bulk, and as previously mentioned I buy US stuff by the quart can, (a lot cheaper than hobby shops) and lasts for years if well sealed (thin with acetone if it gets too thick, - or the proper thinners) JB
    3 months ago by jbkiwi
    Forum
    Wiring help needed.
    Evening Commander (😉) First the 6V loads- What you need is a 6V voltage regulator tacked on to the 12V supply. Simplest way is a 3 pin IC regulator (looks like a power transistor😉) from the L78xx series. The xx stands for the output voltage, so here L or LM or MC 7806. Thing to watch for when buying is their current capability, most are only 1Amp. There are some around for 1.5A or even 3A. Check your usual component supplier, or Google around (don't let Caroline catch you 😉) Attached is a datasheet for a 1.5A version. Fig. 3. shows how to wire it into yout 12V supply. Don't worry about the capacitors. They are intended for mains derived
    supplies
    to suppress voltage transients on the input, which you won't get from a battery. The cap on the output is to suppress transients from the load when you switch it on. Not worth worrying about if the thruster motor is small. But if you happen to have a 0.1uF (100nF or 104 code often printed on the ceramic) ceramic plate cap kicking about ... NOT an electrolytic can type!💥 https://www.google.com/search?q=0.1uf+capacitor&client=firefox-b-d&tbm=isch&source=iu&ictx=1&fir=aT8JdfspcXDrEM%253A%252CkimvVilj_2DqfM%252C_&vet=1&usg=AI4_-kQAb-VMPkepdmZJ-2Vd36rwOQKpWA&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwiKpbOmxqbkAhVIYVAKHTOBC80Q9QEwDHoECAcQHA#imgrc=aT8JdfspcXDrEM: Bow thruster- Just use a small ESC same as for propulsion.😊 What current does the thruster motor draw? Radar motor won't drink a lot I would think. Mine (converted servo) runs on a D size 1.5V dry cell for months! I don't bother with an RC switch for radar, just switch on (by inserting the battery!😊) at launching. Cheap n cheerful but woiks! BTW; if you want to turn on the proverbial sixpence (that's dime for our colonial brothers😁) fit a stern thruster as well, wire it's motor back to front and feed it from the same ESC via a Y cable. Don't disappear down your own funnel though 😮😮 Another way is a so called Universal BEC. This
    supplies
    power to the RX and connected loads. Some can cope with up to 5A. Google UBEC. Minor snag is that all the ones I've seen so far are 5V! Might be enough ? If you go this way disconnect ALL red power leads in the cables from ESCs to RX IF they have BECs, or they'll fight each other! Cheers, Doug 😎 BTW How's your Commander Commander? I seem to be missing some refit progress reports 😠 (Drums fingers on desk while pouring a tot of calming Pusser's Rum!) OK Grauer Burgunder actually😊 PS Welcome back DG👍
    3 months ago by RNinMunich
    Event
    Bring and Buy
    Dear editor Would please place our Bring and Buy Notice in your next issue of Model Boats Best Regards Colin Travis 29th September 2019 Mutual Model Boat Society Grand Modellers Bring & Buy Sale Crimble croft Community Centre Aspinal Street, Heywood, Manchester OL10 4HL Come along and enjoy this famous event, Either to sell or purchase your
    supplies
    There are always lots of unusual bargains to be had Opening time for sales 09.30am Opening time for traders 08.30am Food available from 09.00am Closing time 1.00pm The whole site is wheel chair friendly Admission £1.50 includes a raffle ticket To Reserve a sellers Table, 6ft x 2ft =£10.00 Please contact Kevan Winward 07803 975089 or Colin Travis 07905028298
    4 months ago by ColinT
    Response
    Re: New
    supplies
    required!
    Agreed poundland is where I get most of my
    supplies
    . In Hereford they now stock uhu glues, and the self mixing 2pack epoxy is great. Should throw the mixing nozzle away after use, but I flush it out with cellulose thinner. Cheers Colin.
    5 months ago by Colin H
    Forum
    LED Lighting tip
    Hi Martin. The idea seems to reduce problems with
    supplies
    for LEDs However ,how have you handled the differences in voltages required for different colours. Regards Robert
    7 months ago by Hillro
    Event
    Grand Modellers Bring & Buy Sale
    7th April 2019 Mutual Model Boat Society Grand Modellers Bring & Buy Sale Crimble croft Community Centre Come along and enjoy this famous event, Either to sell or purchase your
    supplies
    There are always lots of unusual bargains to be had Opening time for sales 09.30am Opening time for traders 08.30am Food available from 09.00am Closing time 1.00pm The whole site is wheel chair friendly Admission £1.50 includes a raffle ticket To Reserve a sellers Table, 6ft x 2ft =£10.00 Please contact Kevan Winward 07803 975089 or Colin Travis 07905028298
    10 months ago by ColinT
    Response
    Enclosing the controls.
    I've spent a few bob with SLEC up to now, I get all of my modelling timber
    supplies
    from them, excellent range of hardwood and softwood, very good prices and next day delivery....what's not to like 👍 Rover P4, a beautiful car and well worth restoring too. Just remember to compliment your wife on the excellent condition of her chassis and low running costs now and again 😜. She might be happy for you spend more on boats then 😁. Rob.
    9 months ago by robbob
    Forum
    Richardson/Southampton Smoke Generator
    Hi Pete, 45 years, Wow! Well I'm glad you have some switches. you can use on your project! It wouldn't have been a problem. I would have sent you some switches! I'm glad you have some though! Yes, Harbor Models is a good place to look for model
    supplies
    ! There's also Cornwall model boat in the UK. They have a good amount of
    supplies
    as well! I also know what you mean about your appointments! It always seams as if there not going to end! Nick, is good people and very helpful! Let me know how you make out! Ed
    9 months ago by figtree7nts
    Blog
    Rescue Vessel - Springer Tug
    Hello all, Even though I am in the middle of several projects, including refitting two of my boats, I can't resist starting a new one. I am sure that I am not the only one with this affliction, I get bored quickly and jump from project to project. To keep them moving, I mostly work simultaneously. So here goes, my first ever Build Blog, bear with me.... Picked the Springer Tug as it is very simple and it will just be used ss a backup recovery vessel. I intend to build it a zero cost from my parts box and scrap wood pile. I put together my extra props, driveshaft, gearbox, motor, esc and RX. May have to buy a SLA Battery to get descent run time. Started last evening by making a template based on the plan in photo, credit goes to hull designer, see photo. Then I determined my motor location and Drive Line Angle so I could design the stuffing tube. Constructed that the same night using a 3/16" SS steel drive shaft. Bronze bushings from local hardware store and brass tubing from my
    supplies
    . See photos... Had the 500dc motor, Master Airscrew Gearbox, drive shaft, coupler and 2" brass prop. More to come..... Joe
    11 months ago by Joe727
    Forum
    Aeronaut Pilot Boat
    Hi Peter, Thanks for idea for making easier access to Rudder Connections. I have modified mine to similar to yours and all seems well so far. I have not continued with "above" Deck Building but that will be next on the plan. How "Electrical Minded" are you regarding LED wiring etc.? I am looking for a good Website, both for getting advice on Wiring along with suitable
    supplies
    for UK source. Any ideas? Thanks again. Ron
    10 months ago by RonW
    Response
    Crack in seam Repaired!
    Ed, I have the plastic hull. I used a strip of fiberglass per instructions and never have had a leak issue. At the time I did this, about 4 years ago, I was doing a lot of fiberglass work so I had the proper
    supplies
    . Adheres to plastic hull well. My current build is a Springer Tug Rescue Vessel, I am hoping to get the plywood hull sealed only with paint. We will see... Joe
    11 months ago by Joe727
    Blog
    Day Two Springer
    Springer build log for website Hello all, Even though I am in the middle of several projects, including refitting two of my boats, I can't resist starting a new one. I am sure that I am not the only one with this affliction, I get bored quickly and jump from project to project. To keep them moving, I mostly work simultaneously. So here goes, my first ever Build Blog, bear with me.... Picked the Springer Tug as it is very simple and it will just be used ss a backup recovery vessel. I intend to build it a zero cost from my parts box and scrap wood pile. I put together my extra props, driveshaft, gearbox, motor, esc and RX. May have to buy a SLA Battery to get descent run time. Started last evening by making a template based on the plan in photo, credit goes to hull designer, see photo. Then I determined my motor location and Drive Line Angle so I could design the stuffing tube. Constructed that the same night using a 3/16" SS steel drive shaft. Bronze bushings from local hardware store and brass tubing from my
    supplies
    . See photos... Had the 500dc motor, Master Airscrew Gearbox, drive shaft, coupler and 2" brass prop. More to come..... Joe Day 2 Hello, Next I traced the hull sides on to 12mm/1/2" Baltic birch plywood from Woodcraft store. I nailed two pieces together prior to cutting so as to match. I don't have a scroll saw so I built a table mount for a jigsaw that attaches to my homemade drill press table. Cut them together, but the jigsaw does not cut well in terms of verticality. So I clamped them in a vise and hand sanded till they matched and were at 90 degrees. I showed my simple rig for the sabre saw / jigsaw table. if you need detail, just ask. I also showed my custom made 4 1/2 table that I made because I could not find a scaled down table saw for model making. (Could not afford, I am retired and have a low budget. Glued up the sides and ends tonight with Titebond 3, temporary nails to help hold it into place. Note: As to any joints whether it be electronic, woodworking, etc., a good practice is to use this both adhesive and mechanical fastener. I swear by these as one or the other will eventually fail This is as simple as using a screw, nail or rod, and the appropriate adhesive. Model building, as most will say is cheaper than therapy. Joe
    11 months ago by Joe727
    Forum
    HMS M.33
    "Manxman was about when I was in the RN in the sixties." Yes Nick, but by then apparently not in her original form, role or speed! Cheers, Doug 😎 "Summary of Post War Service. HMS MANXMAN was first deployed to support the repatriation of British and nationals of allied nations and carried stores and
    supplies
    from Sydney to Japan. On later trips she went to Shanghai and Hong Kong which was used as the base for the BPF in 1946 and 47. in June 1946 the ship returned to UK and was refitted at Sheerness before returning for further service with the BPF in February 1947 as relief for HM Cruiser EURYALUS. At the end of that year she was nominated for reduction to reserve status and returned to join the Reserve Fleet at Sheerness. In 1951 this ship was brought forward for operational use and following a refit joined the Mediterranean Fleet in September 1951. After two years she was again placed in Reserve and laid-up in Malta where she remained until again refitted. The after 4” mounting was removed and she re-commissioned in February 1956 for duty as Flagship of the Mediterranean Fleet Flotillas. During this service she took part in relied operations after an earthquake in the Lebanon as well as taking part in NATO and Fleet exercises in the Mediterranean. She was deployed for headquarters duties during the Suez operation later in 1956 and the next year returned to Malta to lay-up in Reserve. Refitted for further service after tow to Gibraltar in 1958 she returned to lay up Malta until 1961 when she was selected for conversion into a Support Ship for minesweepers at Chatham where she was taken in hand by HM Dockyard on 17th July that year. During this work the other two 4” mountings and two boiler rooms were removed which reduced her speed significantly. Additional accommodation and support workshops were fitted to suit her new role and work was completed during February 1963. Whilst on trials in April 1963 she visited the isle of Man where she grounded whilst in Douglas Bay. On returned to Chatham the ship prepared for service in the Far East and re-commissioned on 23rd September that year for support of the 6th Minesweeping Squadron at Singapore. She deployed in that role until late in 1968 and arrived at Portsmouth on 12th December." "In reserve at Malta and refitting She was refitted in Chatham in the early 60's and converted to a minesweeper support vessel. When the forward boiler was removed and the compartment was fitted with diesel generators to supply outboard power to minesweepers, she was fitted with a dummy forward funnel, which housed the diesel exhausts and ventilation for the compartment. Much of the mine stowage was removed to make way for additional accommodation. Commissioning in 1963, she was subsequently stationed in Singapore. Returning to the UK in 1968, Manxman was used for engineering training at Devonport and following a fire, was transferred to the reserve at Chatham Dockyard until broken up at Newport in 1973."
    1 year ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Nomenclature...
    Hi Martin, BEC is the Battery Eliminator Circuit built into an Electronic Speed Controller. UBEC is a Universal BEC which takes power from the main (drive) battery and
    supplies
    5V or 6v to the receiver. it can be a linear device. SBEC does the same job as a UBEC but is a so called Switched device which is more efficient than a linear. So functionally for our purposes there is no difference. Alles klar Herr Kommissar!? 😉 Cheers, Doug 😎
    1 year ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Saving Lives At Sea
    It’s a great programme. I have colleagues and friends who volunteer in various locations and I’m also proud to be working for the company that
    supplies
    their kit...
    1 year ago by GrahamP74
    Blog
    Rebuild starts
    Well it has been a while but I can now continue with the renovation. I have purchased most of the weaponry from Battlecraft and I must say that I am impressed with the quality. I will add pictures of these later in the build. I have started to prime all of the wood. Removal of the final areas of the original paint was a task but I got there in the end. I have applied sanding sealer and rubbed it down with 1000 grit wet and dry. it is starting to look and feel quite smooth. Have you built the 50cal guns yet Doug? I would like to buy some but I am concerned that they might be a little brittle for me to handle.🤔 Just a couple of questions to ask before I get on. Can I have suggestions as to who
    supplies
    good quality wooden kits to build at reasonable prices. I need to consider my next project. I want to buy a 0.8mm air brush for the larger areas as I am finding 0.5mm too small. I have my eyes on an Iwata HP-EP. This is for sale on ebay new at £122. Are there any suggestions for a better and or cheaper solution. Thanks.🤓
    1 year ago by MouldBuilder
    Blog
    Now Coating and Matting
    On to Coating and Matting. (as well as sanding!) Now have at least finished all the stripping. Then did the ‘bright light in the hull bit’ to look for areas that needed patching. The major problem area was in the bow and that did not receive the light as it is a totally blanked off compartment. However, it was obvious from the outside anyway so, could I assume it was the only leak? Decided to put a fine matt over the whole hull, not deck, just to be sure of best chance of success. I can imagine what will be said here if it still leaks after all this! I had ordered some
    supplies
    ready for the next stage and drew up a plan view of the boat to help think through layout of electrics and other items. Made my usual mistakes about size. Some fittings purchased too small………However, never too large now that’s interesting. Some materials purchased too large. Now have a life’s worth of Resin……(when does it ‘go off’ by?) Also have a lounge floors worth of tissue matting! Also Sandpaper. Now there is a mine field. So now I know a bit more about that and which way the numbers work! When I forgot to put the mask on, I had some of the crispest 'bogies' in years.............. No images posted! On the plus side, although I never wanted to get into this stripping sanding, filling sanding, sealing sanding, matting sanding, painting sanding, painting, sanding bit……………. I now feel I started out with someone’s boat I had bought and now it has become “my boat” for real! I am at the stage now where I have put some filler in and applied the first coat of Eze-Kote from DeLuxe Materials To use Eze-kote read stuff from RNinMunich on this blog or the’ leaking boat’ thread. Washes out of the brushes very easily. There is such as this ..... Youtube link - watch?v=yP05qv3QtUk RNinMunich or Colin H. and the like have bits of extra comment and experience that is always very helpful. BTW, after that finer sanding before first coat, I did the dust down and vacuuming bit but it still felt a bit ‘chalky’ so I gave it a wipe with Methylated Spirits. Now I realise that has water in it, so if anything goes wrong it could be blamed on that................. Having left the first coat to dry I started to cut out the light matt to apply after the next sanding. The matting I have is called Glassfibre Surface Tissue EGlass from FibreGlass Direct. A part of Tricel Composites (NI) Limited. Available internationally in lengths from a metre upwards, it is quite fine in weave so we shall see what happens. I have left quite a wide margin at the moment but may reduce that when I have tried using it! This is another first for me so plenty of room for mistakes............... Will need to cover with the matt in stages as I cannot get around all the boat without changing its position. Going for the bottom of the vessel and stern board first as I figure they are going to be easier than some of the other bits. Then will leave that to cure before moving the boat. Really worried about the joins/overlaps and how well I will cope with those, not to mention the curved bit! Started to look at electrics and layout for a bit of a change. I will post again when I have had the first battles with the matting! TTFN. NPJ
    1 year ago by NPJ
    Forum
    Brass bashin' Chris Craft deck fittings...
    Interesting Mark, 👍 I'll have a sniff round my local art
    supplies
    shop. Can get a variety of woods, profiles, stains, lacquer and resins an' such there as well! Cheers, Doug 😎
    1 year ago by RNinMunich
    Response
    BRAVE BORDERER
    Hi Rowen, Interesting snag! Can you send me a wiring diagram please. Sounds like you might be getting some cross coupling of control pulse ripple through the battery wiring. Reminds me of similar problems on naval COMMS systems where we had to fit filters to all the power
    supplies
    to prevent cross coupling of sensitive info from 'Secure' to 'Plain' systems via the power leads! BTW: All brushless squeal and scream until the the pitch gets beyond human hearing frequency range 😉 Alternative: if you use two 3S LiPos, each of half the capacity of the original, you should get the same endurance with only a small weight penalty. This ain't curing the real problem though 😉 Cheers, Doug 😎
    1 year ago by RNinMunich
    Response
    Deans Robert E. Perry Libertyship
    Agree Donnie, I might be inclined to name her SS John Barry https://www.wikiwand.com/en/SS_John_Barry But then I'm biased, I spent some time working in Muscat, Oman and in the Marriot Hotel there is a 'John Barry Bar' commemorating the loss of the ship off the coast of Oman with several mementoes of the ship. Happy building, my next 'new build' is also a Deans kit, HMS Manxman a fast minelayer / cruiser which played a large part in running
    supplies
    to Malta. I'm impressed with the hull quality as I'm sure you are too.👍 I intend to add some cross braces to the hull, sized to ensure that the decks fit before I start stiffening or any other work on the hull. Cheers, Doug 😎
    1 year ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    LED Tug Mast Navigation Lights
    Good afternoon, Doug: I found the flat-topped LEDs at Ali Express. The url for these LEDs is: https://m.aliexpress.com/item/32462840779.html? I’ve included another photo of the LED that has a dimensioned sketch with it. FYI, I’ve ordered lots of stuff from Ali Express, such as hobby tools &
    supplies
    , electronic components, gizmos, gewgaws & doodads. One particularly nice thing I purchased is a wireless guitar-to-amp device. Everything I’ve bought has been top-quality, but because nearly everything ships from China it can take several weeks to be delivered to me here in Massachusetts. Now for the inevitable question: If I use your drawing as it is now & modified the circuit board, added the resistors as you’ve already indicated & connected white LEDs in all locations, everything would work OK, but some LEDs would be brighter than others because your design was based on using colored LEDs. Correct? Based on your observations & experience would any harm be done? Don’t worry, I’m not going to jump the gun without your final drawing (which I’m in no rush for...take your time). I’m just curious. Which leads to my last remark, for now. For some reason my wife thinks I ask far more questions than “normal” people do. She claims that I’m exceedingly curious. I don’t know what she means, but her offhand remarks have inspired me to rechristen the Richardson. When the LED project is complete & the tug is all ship-shape & Bristol fashion, her new name will be: “Curiosity”.
    1 year ago by PittsfieldPete
    Forum
    Norfolk Wherry Fans
    Thanks for the heads up.I agree re the Wherry sails being heavy and their being "prettier" And yes they were enclosed. The Dutchies were much lighter with lighter sailcloth as they were on canals and didn't have to contend with the rigours of the sea.Also their journeys were short between pick up and drop off points. Much like a lot of our canal boats. Often carrying domestic
    supplies
    so their cargo needed to be "Get attable" frequently hence the tarpaulins instead of Hatch covers. With my barge being just ten inches and made of balsa a heavy cloth would capsize her. Their is little draught just side/draught/lee boards instead of a keel to keep them from being pushed side ways by the wind. I suppose I could just finish it as static but where's the fun in that? LOL Regards John O/T👍
    1 year ago by onetenor
    Forum
    LED Tug Mast Navigation Lights
    before you use RS to buy your wrapping wire you might like to look here https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/0-25mm-30AWG-Insulated-Silver-Plated-Single-Core-Copper-PCB-Kynar-Wrapping-Wire/122010525608?hash=item1c6864dfa8:m:mSSbrt6-g4kFAe2TYtm4QGg I didn't realise anyone was still making wire wrapping
    supplies
    .
    1 year ago by Haverlock
    Response
    engine
    Hi Hammer, Dremmel do some as well I think, maybe not so expensive, but if you want them to last ..... My pension is a bit complex; part UK, part Germany, part my old company! Anytime now the German Taxman will want his bite!🤔 The Proxxon and Dremmel stuff I buy here in various DIY / builders
    supplies
    stores, much cheaper than their own online prices😊 Google them some time, you might be pleasantly surprised👍 Dunno about 'intelligenz', when I get stuck I just go back to basic principles and work back up! Anyway; who says mechanical engineers and craftsman are less intelligent? Definitely NOT me! You guys do things I can only aspire to! My Grandad was an 'old' Master Carpenter, I learned an awful lot from him, especially how to look after tools and sharpen chisels so you could slice tomatoes with 'em😉 Keep up the good work. Cheers, Doug 😎
    1 year ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Fitting Propshafts
    Afternoon Doug, See, this is why I too. Go around buying different
    supplies
    !
    1 year ago by figtree7nts
    Response
    Handrails Painted!
    For flags I've always used Mike Alsop scale flags and ensigns but he uses silk to make the flags. But unlike some
    supplies
    he can do the flags date specific as he does them by hand . Tel: 01476 573331 email: scaleflags@outlook.com Ron
    1 year ago by kmbcsecretary
    Forum
    LED Tug Mast Navigation Lights
    Hi Pete, Number 1, Get yourself some more batteries! You'll want a spare at the pond anyway 😉 Better still, get a variable mains power supply for such bench tests so you don't have to mess with batteries until you're on the pond! Here in Munich I got a Basetech 30V 5A regulated PSU for less then the price of a decent boat kit. See 2nd pic, shows mine during my test of a converted field coil motor to make it run forwards and backwards. it saves a lot of faffing about with batteries for a quick test of a circuit😉 Get one where you can set a current limit down to mAmps so you don't risk blowing components, e.g. LEDs! Re Connectors: if you are going to make a little distribution board for the lights then why not use this for all connections to the superstructure? I.e. first solder all the wires from the circuit board into the input end of your Veroboard. At the output end solder a strip of 1/10" pitch connector pins. Try Radio Shack! For each output to lamps, smoker etc you can then use the little 2 pin JST plugs. See pic. Type JST-RCY. Try Googling them. Sure you can get these from any half decent Online RC
    supplies
    shop over there. They are often used in Park Flyer planes etc. Doing it that way you only have half the wires to squash into the tiny plugs 😉 As soon as we have the voltage readings we can work out the connections and resistors etc for your little board. Happy measuring😁 Looking forward to your sketch. Cheers, Doug 😎
    1 year ago by RNinMunich
    Response
    Recieved some
    supplies
    !
    Have fun Ed😉 Write the values on the tape holding them together as well. Helps when you've got several out the bags! BTW: are the toes an optional extra these days? 😁😁 Don't get too lit up, G'night all, Doug 😎
    1 year ago by RNinMunich
    Blog
    Recieved some
    supplies
    !
    Today besides spray painting the handrail to the Brooklyn. I recieved the resister and Switches. I had ordered two weeks ago! The resisters come in a plastic bag. With the various values on the reverse! Now all I have to do. is spend the weekend sorting resisters. And putting them in other plastic baggies. With the values written on them Oh, joy!😱
    1 year ago by figtree7nts
    Forum
    Fittings & Detail Parts
    You’re right, Doug. Lithium shouldn’t be in contact with pond or lake water, even in tiny amounts. I feel like a dope for considering lithium at all because for 20 years I designed & detailed water treatment equipment designed to remove that kind of thing! I took another look at my N scale maintenance
    supplies
    & it turns out that the grease I have is the PTFE/Teflon type as you mentioned. Another thing you mentioned about lithium grease that’s also true is that it does indeed tend to clump & become semi-solid over time. So obviously lithium grease gets crossed off the lube list. I don’t think the Hobby Engine prop shafts have bearings. it looks to me like the shafts just pass through tubes, essentially using the tubes as long sleeve bearings. When they’re greased they turn quite freely, plus the grease blocks water from entering the boat. There aren’t any oil tubes in my boat, either. Like you (& I assume just about every scale boater) I like to run at scale speeds. Anyone who has ever seen a real tug moving along knows that they can’t exactly reach planing speeds & they’re not likely to be seen towing water skiers. All things being equal, the WYEFORCE tug, which definitely appears to be the boat Hobby Engine designed their models from, has a top speed of 11 knots or 1114 feet per minute. The model’s scale is 1:36, so it’s top speed should be 0.306 knots or about 31 fpm. I don’t think the model can run that slowly, but again I say it’s about having fun. I won’t lose any sleep if the model has a faster scale top speed than the real boat as long as it looks good doing it.
    1 year ago by PittsfieldPete
    Forum
    Radio in a yacht
    Right chaps, firstly many thanks for your suggestions. I won't be doing LiPos, because the charging is too complicated for me. I can't read the instructions of my fancy charger so it remains in its box. I forgot that I can get NiMhs in sealed packs, so that'll be something I get hold of, although the shop had more out of stock than in! Secretary, I liked the look of that servo you linked me to and will be getting one. Norman, I have today picked up my Spektrum DX5e from my daughter's place where it was in store. I found it whilst looking for something else as always! I already have the Orange Rx and can now try binding it, when I have some batteries for both items. I also have 27meg gear, three different lots and WILL be using it in my classic speedboat models. I waste as little as possible! I have now settled on a continuous loop for the sail control, which doesn't need spring tension, though haven't decided a good way to attach the sheets to the loop or how to tell when the loop has gone as far as it dare before getting a bit mixed up. But I have sorted out the plank system by making one section trap a second, both of which can be removed separately. I found a gear and shaft out of an old printer which I chucked in the lathe and turned a groove in for the loop line. Then I found a use finally for that 6mm ball race I've had in my drill drawer for years! it was an interference fit on the shaft. I had some PTFE plate for another task and in some spare I made a hole that the ball race pushes into a treat, below it an identical plate supports the other end of the shaft, PTFE being very low friction. All this levels the return "pulley" with the servo drum. I only have a limited length of run for the loop line, but it should be enough. it's all I got anyway. About 10" between pulley and drum centres. if I attach the sheet part way down the boom instead of the end I should have enough movement. So, progress. My son-in-law supplied some bike gear cable for the rudder actuation as the rudder stock is at an extreme, typically cutter, angle. A hunt through the
    supplies
    (Pringles tins) gave up enough aluminium tube to guide the cable. Alas, I installed with lots of epoxy the rudder tube and it turns out to be 4.5mm bore! Gawd knows where that came from. The tube built into the back of the rudder itself is 4 mm. So that'll be some lathe work ahead. All good fun between the gardening chores. Cheers, Martin
    2 years ago by Westquay
    Response
    Sanding down.
    Hi Peter, wow 24 ltr tank 😲 mine's only about 10max I think. Yep regulator and oil / water strippers are indispensable for best results 👍 Sounds like you have a nice setup there. Mine is the Revell Master Class with all the trimmings so sort of semi-pro 😉 I also have two 'guns' (one single action and one double action) for large and small quantities and a variety of needles and jets from fine line (without the guts to test it yet😁) to large areas like hulls. If you go to a DIY place that the pros also go to (Building
    supplies
    ?) you should find acrylics in half and 1ltr cans. For my 'grey ladies' (up to 1.5m long) I use the 1/2 ltr cans of RAL standard colours, e.g. RAL 1001 is medium navy grey, RAL 7035 is a lighter grey more like the RN hull colour. 1/2 litre thinned to the consistency of milk (low fat😉) does a lot of hulls and you don't want it to harden in the can do you! 😡 A good shop should be able to mix any colour you want. Take the paint chart with you and the mixer should be able to look up the mix code on a computer. if he hasn't got one - go somewhere else!! You should also find the primer filler there (usually only grey I'm afraid), if not go to a pro car
    supplies
    shop - you'll find the Protection Lacquer there as well. Cheers Doug 😎
    2 years ago by RNinMunich
    Response
    The Lone Ranger Rides Again or Hull Finishing ;-))
    Hi Boatshed, Know what you mean about brushing and brushes! You CAN achieve the same effect with brushes, but it takes much longer, with much more flattening in between coats. So much more 'secret ingredient is needed! Brushes from DIY shops, and most model shops, you can forget 🤔 too synthetic, too coarse and too prone to shedding hairs. 😡 For tiny detailing work, esp on Plastic Magic projects, I went to an art
    supplies
    store! Prompted by the GF who is into oil and water colour painting! There you will find a great selection of very fine real hair brushes in sizes from 'Help I can't see it'! to about 1" flat, used for applying 'washes' 😉 Not cheap, but quality never is! For example; I'm using a 1/4" flat camel hair brush for renovating the wood decks of my Graf Spee and HMS Belfast with sealer and satin varnish from the Lord nelson range. Will also apply some Jotica Oak stain to dampen the bright colour a bit. For the pinstripe / Boot Topping on the Sea Scout I'm 'Going for Gold', to be applied with the finest airbrush nozzle I have and using Tamiya masking tape to get a good clean edge. hardest part will be getting the tape on right 😲 Hope I don't mess up what I have already achieved! Cheers Doug 😎
    2 years ago by RNinMunich
    Response
    The Lone Ranger Rides Again or Hull Finishing ;-))
    Hi Mark, thankyou 😊 The paint is, not surprisingly for me, from a German manufacturer: Peter Kwasny Gruppe. They also make the pro car paints I sometimes use. It's article number 320 078. Königsblau / Royal Blue. The can top is darker than the finish actually turns out! To me it's lighter than Royal Blue but I'm happy with it. I also used - the white primer from the same company; article number 320 411, before that light grey filler primer, # 233 032, and finally clear high gloss protective lacquer # 633 017. The blue and the white primer I found in a local building
    supplies
    store under the name 'Hit Color Decospray'! They are specified for indoor and outdoor use; emission class A+. 👍 You might find something similar in your local DIY shop. I think your Puffer would look superb in this colour. if you want a darker shade you might try a thin coat of matt or satin black after the primer? The primer filler and lacquer I bought online some time ago as part of a Pro Scratch Repair kit for my last car. Now what can I do with the rest of the Toyota Navajo Red ??? I sent them the paint code from my car registration and they mixed up an absolute perfect match and delivered in about 10 days 😊 I'll dig in the archive for the web link. Ciao, Doug 😎 PS I think you're right, I'll go for Gold (😉) and hope I don't mess up the hull! Tamiya tape should help.
    2 years ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Lifeboat
    Hi Lee Another useful supplier for most modelling
    supplies
    is https://eileensemporium.com/ They sell bass wood stringers in all sizes.
    2 years ago by Dave M
    Forum
    Brushless motors
    Hi Spitfire Yes you need to isolate one of the BEC
    supplies
    from the ESC (red wire). You can cut the wire but I prefer to remove the connector from the plug, you will find a small tab holds the connector in place and if you carefully lift this tab with a scalpel blade the connector will pull out of the plug and can be taped to the other leads. it will then be available for future use should you need a BEC supply. Good luck
    2 years ago by Dave M
    Forum
    Sea Queen Water Line
    Andy The original model was produced in the early 1960s when IC engines were the norm and scale and RC for sailing models were in their early development stages.
    supplies
    were limited and we made do with whatever was available. The plans were typically sheet on frame, probably plywood from an old tea chest and cascamite resin glue ( it was water proof and slow setting). The designer would suggest suitable wood to use but many chose to use what they could acquire and as a result the finished models often finished up heavy or very heavy. Coupled with the large IC engine and flywheel and large heavy RC escarpments and big drycell batteries, it is not surprising that the hulls sat well in the water. To the modellers of the period the waterline really didn't matter as we were after speed, control and endurance. This may explain why the early plans did not show a waterline, as in my experience the draught varied greatly between models. Today we have scale plans and
    supplies
    that allow us to build true replicas and all the important detail is a must for a true scale model. Personally as an ex flyer I try and build lite, bricks tend to fall or sink, and my Sea Queen rides high in the water with a slight bow up. A 42xx brushless and LiPo add little weight and I have two 8oz lumps of lead in the stern section to achieve this. If it looks right, sails well and you are happy, then enjoy your model.
    2 years ago by Dave M
    Forum
    Happy Hunter
    Yep Mark, under the brand name roMarin. It's advertised on several German model
    supplies
    sites with accessory / fitting set, e.g. https://www.cmc-versand.de/en/roMarin/Happy-Hunter-Bergungsschlepper-Baukasten-arnr-19-ro1106 or direct from Krick. http://www.krickshop.de/e-vendo.php?shop=krick_e&SessionId=3327x041c5f9cdbcc81d2b242d0b4290a8e06&a=search&SearchStr=Happy+hunter Cheers Doug 😎 PS cheaper at CMC but ONLY ONE LEFT! I have bought lots of 'stuff' from CMC and find them them very quick, helpful and reliable.
    2 years ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    DISCHARGE CONUNDRUM
    Hi Les Thank you. There are three LEDS which change from red to green when fully charged. I can see no mention of setting a half charge. Haverlock was right in thinking each cell was charged by the balance lead so you will be protected from overcharging. The solution is to buy a battery checker theirs is DYN4071 and I have one in my collection. Using the checker involves plugging the battery via the balance lead into the balancer and each cell voltage is displayed sequentially. So you charge for half your normal length of time and check the voltage of each cell is about 3.7 to 3.8v. Bit clunky but would work. A better solution would be to invest in a balancer charger which will automatically charge to full voltage or the storage charge. There are several available some with mains power
    supplies
    and others needing a DC power source. Have a look at https://www.componentshop.co.uk/catalogsearch/result/?q=balance+charger I have a Giant Power G6AC but they all work just as well. Please ask if you need more info
    2 years ago by Dave M
    Directory
    (Pleasure Craft) Swordsman hull
    This was my first serious attempt at model boating and the hull a Swordsman fibreglass 34.1/2" was purchases 50 years ago from Radio Control
    supplies
    isleworth in 1967 along with a used RCS Sequential radio. Over the years it's been powered by an ED 2.46 Racer a Merco 35 and finally my treasured OS61 VRM With a tuned pipe from Prestwich model boats. Now it's time for a a total rebuild so i,be decided to try twin contra rotating screws and brushed 600 motors. I'm looking to fit a superstructure akin to a Sea King. So far the hull has been stripped of all its hardware and all holes made good with resin and glass fibre tape. Currently making jigs to set up the two new propshafts On first test run brushed motors were very disappointing so onto plan B. Latest setup will be 2 x 3670 2100kv each with 100amp ESC. The lead acid battery made the hull very unstable so it's back to lipo batteries (Motor: 3670 x2) (ESC: Chinese) (9/10)
    2 years ago by Rex3644
    Forum
    Twin Esc/Mixer
    The large protusion will be the heat sinks for the power Mosfets. Looks like a cardboard spacer in between to protect during transit.The case top with slots will fit over the plates to protect. The green screw connections are for the motors. You take the two motor leads and insert into the connectors and tighten the screws. If the motor(s) run in the wrong direction just swop over the leads for the relevant connectors(s). The two black and red wires are for the separate battery
    supplies
    . Make sure you connect the red to positive and the black to negative and its is advisable to fit an inline fuse (=
    2 years ago by Dave M
    Forum
    Denatured Alcohol
    Yes Doug we will get slapped wrists.Good point about reloading and I' ve got a domed 50b but I left it dirty after the last run .Combined with a bit of damp and the hole has corroded away round half the circumference.I'll try that Free Flight
    supplies
    shop. Tried getting onto Jetex forum but had to send E mail asking how. No form evident on site . With apologies to the mods for the Hi -Jack . if you need to say more go on chit chat or something. Cheers John Have a few forXXX me 👍
    2 years ago by onetenor
    Forum
    Denatured Alcohol
    sorry, he got his spare parts from Free flight
    supplies
    ,seemingly you can get enough spare parts to build a near complete engine they also had Rapier model engines Marky
    2 years ago by marky


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