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    Hi Jb, I don't know much about that tank. Maybe it would be posable to drill a small hole in the top then you could fill it using a
    , then plug the hole with a small bung. Martin555.
    4 months ago by Martin555
    "Has anyone tried petroleum jelly (Vasoline) ?" Have never tried it Martin, never even considered it! Metal to metal is not quite what it was developed for, and I strongly suspect that it's melting point is far too low and it would rapidly exit stage astern!πŸ€” BTW: Whatever grease / oil you use injection under pressure from a
    is always recommendable. πŸ‘ As mentioned above; if fitting ball races or roller bearings injection / filling with grease under pressure BEFORE fitting is also highly recommendable. Cheers, Doug 😎 PS Apropos Teflon grease: If it's good enough for the Teflon President (DJT) then it's good enough for my boats!😁
    5 months ago by RNinMunich
    Hi Guys, Has anyone tried petroleum jelly (vasoline) ? I have heard some years ago now of someone forcing it in a tube with a
    . Martin555.
    5 months ago by Martin555
    "Just a little idea using a
    body, small motor and fan propeller." I can see why it's labelled "Single Use Only" Martin πŸ˜‰ One trip and the coil has melted through the
    and set fire to the boat 😭😭 Exit one VERY unhappy camper er sailor! 😎
    5 months ago by RNinMunich
    EeZeBilts From Keil Kraft
    ".......what about boring a 20mm hole in each section, pour plenty of the thin stuff in, swirl it around, pour the excess back into the container and repeat for each cavity........" Some of the sections ARE 20mm in size. There may well be sections behind sections - to a depth of three or more. And having watertight sections is a useful safety feature when you have a thin balsa hull. On the whole, using a
    makes the whole process much less messy and more manageable. Balsa is easy for a needle to pass through. Just remember not to inject with a solvent which dissolves the glue... 😭
    7 months ago by DodgyGeezer
    Re: 40'' Seaplane Tender, new build Q
    Hi Martin, I've filled it up to the top with a
    but the small bubbles are good for an indicator as you can't see any movement otherwise. I could just make a small header tank, (or even a bit of the large silicon tube mounted vertically on a T and it would bleed itself. I'll see if it gets hot, and if so I'll probably make a small tank for expansion so it doesn't pop the hoses off. There is good circulation all round so hopefully it won't be an issue, I certainly won't be racing it, (it's getting heavier by the minute - coming up on 6lbs and with paint and batteries probably a shade over.) It will need the weight to make it sit properly as the hull was only about 1 3/4 lbs . It will be interesting to see how these motors perform, these are 6v 45T but I can always go to 60T or 12v for more grunt. The combinations are endless!
    8 months ago by jbkiwi
    two part epoxy resin
    "....How true, that's capitalism for you and we are the victims...." Socialism has a pretty poor track record of providing goods as well... :( As RN says, running under a hot tap will improve things. And with the
    , be sure to push evenly in the middle, otherwise the two plungers can get angled and jam. If it's really stiff, I wonder if using a clamp to push the plunger in would help? And, of course, you should check that the two liquids have not merged together at the nozzle and set - thus blocking the outlet and making it impossible to get any out...
    8 months ago by DodgyGeezer
    New drive Train and Oiler
    Most of this actually took place last August / July! Regular readers may have seen that when Dad built this boat in the 60s he put a Taycol Target field motor in it. About 25 years ago I put a Decaperm and 'modern' transistor ESC in her to provide forward and reverse. Performance was sedate to say the least. I have since modified the Taycol (see below) so it can be run forward and reverse and decided to put it in an ancient Billings Boats Danish fish cutter (Gina) that I inherited from an Aunt. The cutter is badly in need of renovation (see pic 1) and the Taycol will be more suited to her performance requirement! On advice from Canabus in Hobart I obtained a Propdrive 2830 1000kV brushless motor, appropriate ESC and a 35mm 3 blade prop from Raboesch. Pic 2 shows the old and new motors. Next step was to trial fit new motor mount, coupling and prop. Pics 3 &4. While doing this it became obvious that a new shaft was in order, as mentioned in last update. Soooo, - appropriate stainless steel rod, thrust washers and set ring were acquired and back to the workshop. After cutting to length to accommodate the new coupling type a 3mm thread was cut a the prop end. At the inboard end I milled recesses for the grub screws in the set ring and the coupling, pics 5 - 7. I don't like to just file(or even mill) flats for the screws cos they have a tendency to slip and work loose😑 Trial fitted the new shaft and found I'd boobed a bit with the measurements and need extra thrust washers to make up the difference. 😲 Pic 8. No sweat, they came in a pack of 50 anyway😊 You can also see in this pic that I decided to fit an oiler pipe while everything was in bits anyway.πŸ˜‰ To solder it on in a cramped space without setting the boat on fire 😑 I packed a wet rag underneath and used a gas Kitchen Torch! Known as a 'Gas Gourmet Burner'. Yep, those handy little gas torches like your Missus uses to melt the brown sugar on her CrΓ¨me BrΓ»lΓ©e!! So do I, delicious πŸ˜œπŸ˜‰ The torches are not expensive, small, very handy, refillable with lighter gas and can be adjusted to a very small hot flame. ideal for this job. See pics 9 & 10. Pic 11 shows the new motor & mount, shaft and coupling all trial fitted after using a brass alignment tool I quickly made up on the lathe. Pic also shows the trial electrical installation after cleaning up the 'machinery compartment' a little and painting with silver Hammerite. A Quickrun BL ESC is sitting in the bottom in one of the trays my Dad originally fitted for the 2 wet cell (very wet!) 6V lead acid batteries. The home made board on the left carries the battery and ESC connectors, main ON/OFF switch with LED, blade fuse holder with a 20A fuse and a green LED which tells me if the fuse is blown! Stuck on the walls (OK Bulkheads!) with so called Servo Tape are a 6 ch Turnigy iA6 2.4Gig RX and the arming switch for the ESC. Battery compartment is sized to fit 2S and 3S hard case LiPos. For trials I can fit my Wattmeter forward of the switchboard and splice it into the battery supply using Tamiya connectors. Might change these to XT60s later if current drain is more than 12 to 15A. All for now, all this was pulled out again preparatory to cosmetics on the hull, decks, cabin roof and walls inside and out. But that's another chapter so, 'Tune in next week, same time same channel when once again it's time for 'WHAT DO YOU MEAN BUCK RODGERS IS APPROACHING!? 😁 Or 'The Saga of the Cabin Roof' πŸ˜‰ Cheers Doug 😎 BTW: After drilling the shaft tube for the oiler pipe I flushed it out with light machine oil (pumped in from a big
    ) and shoved a few pipe cleaners through (rotating them on the way) to remove any remaining drill swarf!!
    2 years ago by RNinMunich
    Hi Guys, I need to simulate tiny rivets on a little something that I am making. I have tried using a
    and needle with pva glue without much success They are not uniform and scrapes off easily. Dose anyone have any ideas please. Martin.
    10 months ago by Martin555

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