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Re: Build now finished
That worked a
thank you for your help.
3 months ago by Martin555
Re: Billings Fittings Kit!
Your Smit Rotterdam looks great!
I hope to do a great job.
On my build of the Smit Nederland!
Aquiring the Brass Becker Rudders was a
I think it's more authentic to the Model!
3 months ago by figtree7nts
They like to eat leeks, and as a special
they love any England Rugby supporters.
They can be tamed easily, and given plenty of rest, are willing to work at the prod of a stick. And even their toilet effluents can be dried, and stored for future use as a garden manure.
Their fire production is second to non, and can also be used to promote steam power for all boiler needs, kitchen needs, washing facilities, and general all round heating of the ship.
Hope this give a positive feed back to the capture and training of Welsh Dragons 🐉
Signing off now for other household duties.
3 months ago by KenThompson
Re: And now for something different!
A great LED tester Ed, bought one myself from Components Shop, works a
4 months ago by Rookysailor
Work with Balsa wood
Dad and I used to build full size Dinghys on our verandah (had a very tolerant mother and even with two dinghys in build there was still room to sit and enjoy the view) At one stage a GP 14 and an Enterprise, then a Mermaid with a Heron plus an 8' Feather duck boat.
When wanting to bend gunnel strakes etc we tried steaming in a long metal pipe (old fashioned drain) with a fire underneath - but not successfully . Then Dad hit on the idea of wrapping the wood in old sheet strips and pouring boiling water over it . That worked a
with the Meranti we used.
So now I fill the kitchen sink with about 2" of hot water from the geyser and soak the strips in that for about 5 minutes. (Held down by crockery to hand). Quickly wipe dry and pin in place. Let dry then glue. Works with balsa and ply (aero) (no need to try liteply yet) and most model woods - some like jelutong and red cedar require a little longer soaking. We have a lot of old cleaning rags as trophies etc need cleaning from the residue left by laser cutting so I don't get into trouble. Dry rag wipes laser cut balsa edges for glueing nicely.
6 months ago by redpmg
Re: WTC construction.
I have a 3mm gap all around the tube. I have not thought as far as the connection between the forward and rear planes yet. I will stumble over that one later.
I am still considering having a tube through the centre or near the top for wiring. I will see how it pans out.
(Wish this spell checker used proper English and not US English).
The inner tube is a nice slide fit inside the WTC. My plan is to get the servo, battery and motor frames to hold it in place. The length is only a guess at this stage and if only a small amount of water is needed to submerge the submarine, then I will probably shorten it.
I have used 4mm wall section tube for the ballast tank and I am going to tie rod the caps in place using brass bolts with SS threaded rod between. I will modify the bolts with M4 internal threads and o rings under the heads. Should work a
6 months ago by MouldBuilder
Re: 40'' Seaplane Tender, new build Z-1
"Didn't quite make it by Z but what the hell."
Never mind Number One, just tack the German umlauts on the end 😉
Ä, Ö, Ü, and their funny double S, ß ! That gives you four more chances😁
Boat looking highly Bristol fashion, Chapeau 👍
Ref the masking tape.
Any form of crepe / decorators tape is a dead loss for modelling, as you've discovered.
I use Tamiya masking tape. Comes in widths of 8mm upwards, gives a good clean sharp line, is flexible to go round compound curves (such as chine and bilge lines etc) and doesn't pull paint off. No scalpel needed. Dodgy business that!🤕
I just mark the waterline with 8 or 10mm Tamiya tape then apply newspaper and normal masking tape to cover the rest of the model. Works a
, every time😊
Available all over the shop!
Try plastic kit or model railway shops. They usually have it in stock along with the paints👍
I buy mine in "mini-bulk" along with Tamiya sanding sponges and other supplies from places like Krick here in Germany.
BTW Lovely clean windows and cabin interior👍
Apropos cleats; they do look a bit "toylike" JB
Cheers, Doug 😎
6 months ago by RNinMunich
Whatever medication you're on Martin, it's working a
, (perhaps I need some,-just tried to pay the doctor with my supermarket card today😂)
7 months ago by jbkiwi
EeZeBilts From Keil Kraft
"I have no experience of Ezekote "
Sorry but that was immediately apparent from your comments I'm afraid.
Also I wasn't talking about the relatively heavy and harder to work 'cloth' but the extremely light glass fibre tissue.
If you can brush on varnish or paint you can brush on Ezekote and tissue just as quick and easy. It dries in around 20 to 30 minutes, depending on ambient temperature and humidity.
I used this technique to stabilise the hull of the Billing Boats Danish Fish Cutter "Gina 2", see Blog on this site. Works a
and is very easy and quick. No faff at all.
Work as you would for brush varnishing / painting and the flatting back is no worse.
Before painting I did a ballasting test and left it floating about in the bath (sorry Domestic test Tank 😉) for hours. No leaks or signs of external ingress.
BTW: the old Sea Scout that Dad built and I restored recently, was originally painted with JapLac. Never leaked as far as no know. But, when I came to renovate it although there were no signs of leaks visible on the inside, there was some evidence of flaking and delamination of the ply visible on the outside.
Cheers, Doug 😎
7 months ago by RNinMunich
Martin Westquay's Piper Cub ;-)
BTW, your repair to my DX5e worked a
as one chap at the club bound it to the Orange Rx. (again, just to show me) and another old master flyer gave the Pietenpol its maiden using the Tx and reported no problems as he flew the wee foamboard plane beautifully.
Thanks again for your great work.
7 months ago by Westquay
Batteries in a DX5e
My son and daughter have been doing car drawing prints for me, but I didn't fancy the cost of ink. But I must say, doing an instant print to take into the workshop is a big help. I have the Matra almost done inside a day!
I also have the fuselage part built on the Pietenpol. Very well designed kits. Everything fits a
and very inexpensive. Shame they've married up with Graupner. That's just an excuse to put prices up.
8 months ago by Westquay
Hey, what a coincidence John. What you describe is virtually what we do Use our rescue dinghy with an electric O/B and a Big Alloy Hay Rake. But we run it backwards. The electric O?B turns through 360 deg. so we run stern first with the O/B Pulling us and the big rake over the bow at around 1 metre down. If we get some real heavy stuff we have an I/C engined long handled hedge cutter that we hang off the stern and the rake catches it at the other end. Works a
and is quite efficient and cost effective. Just needs some man power. Happy sailing Ian,
8 months ago by ikseno99
Re: 40'' Seaplane Tender, new build E
"I wonder if all of the filler dust could be reused?"
If at all you'd probably need a two part resin to set it.
The 'dust' having been 'cured' once already would be more or less inert.
So literally just a filler material.
I used that trick once for an 'invisible' repair of a terracotta figurine for Gisela. 'Is 'ead 'ad fawllen orf ☹️😭
I filed down some scraps of broken terracotta and mixed it with clear two part epoxy glue.
and the figurine is still intact after several years on her terrace😊
Cheers, Doug 😎
PS Now go and lie down in a quiet and dark room for a little while Martin 😉💤
9 months ago by RNinMunich
Re: WTC/Sub Driver.
Well all that just flew straight over my head!
Electronics is not one of my strengths.
The question of IC type well I will post the answer shortly.
All I will say is it works a
9 months ago by Martin555
Hints & Tips
Would it be possible to start a topic on hints & tips in building?
For instance I struggled for years with filler application , and when going through my old artist type oil paints etc to pass on to my kids , came across some old W&N palette knives. They work a
from the very small to very large applications. Had bought a cheap set before leaving UK from one of those outlets that pop up from around Christmas, dug that one out and the broad and angled blades work well for the large applications. The flexible heads push the filler in very well and practically no wastage.
10 months ago by redpmg
hull trouble on vintage yacht
Why would that be Colin?
Suitably flattened off with wet n dry and then primed there shouldn't be any problem!
At least I never had any.
Mind you, I personally prefer to use the Deluxe Ezekote (Ezecote?)
It has several advantages over epoxy:-
One part so no messy mixing
No rushing about if you put too much hardner in😮
Water based so no 'orrible pong and no rock hard brushes😆
just wash 'em out with warm water😉
Dries and can be sanded and primed in 20 - 30 minutes.
That's what I've done with the wooden hulls of my Sea Scout, fish cutter and PTB and it's worked a