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    Hawlspipe and Bollards Completed!
    Today I worked on the Hawser pipe! Which were tricky to work with. They're small so had to keep. My
    from sticking to them! Luckily there's only 5 to work with! I also worked on the Bullards. They're not totally completed yet though! I like Bollards with caps on them. I think I'll put caps on them! Oh, The Cap is the very top of the Bollards. It keeps the rope from popping off the Bollard! I think putting the Cap. Will give the Model more detail! Also keep the string from popping off When I go to tow my model barge! Tomorrow, I will complete the Bollards! Then start working on her superstructure! Here comes the fun part......๐Ÿคž
    3 years ago by figtree7nts
    Re: One hour challenge.
    Hi Jb, I was a little bit younger, thinner, and had a bit more hair on my head. A friend I know has but a ship in a bicycle light bulb, but it took him a lot longer than one hour. He used a microscope,
    and a small piece of a scalpel blade to calve out the hull and superstructure. He also fitted guns. I must see if I can contact him and get some photos. Martin555.
    3 years ago by Martin555
    Fibre optic lighting
    Hi Martin, Somewhere on the site, under Electrical gubbins?, I posted some info and photos on some LED lighting experiments I was doing, partly to assist guys wanting to add lights and equip small masts etc. I included a test board with tiny SMD LEDs. They fit nicely between the tracks of a 0.1" (2.54mm) pitch Veroboard ๐Ÿ˜‰ I bought these tiny LEDs primarily with my 1/350 Plastic Magic conversions in mind. Be prepared to work with fine
    and a 1mm temp controllable soldering iron bit, as well as spending time grovelling around on the floor looking for "the one that got away" ๐Ÿ˜  Cheers, Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž
    3 years ago by RNinMunich
    New supplies required!
    Had to do the โ€˜glue runโ€™ today. Was in Southampton so went to the Poundland there to buy my tried and trusted two part epoxy and super glue. The spray cans are also great to have and a new product which I hadnโ€™t seen before were the pack of four
    . All for a ยฃ5 note!
    3 years ago by GrahamP74
    Hints and Tips.
    Good one Martin๐Ÿ‘ SELF GRIP
    Also; you can make fine
    'self-gripping' by slipping a piece of flexible silicon tube over the points ๐Ÿ˜Š Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž
    3 years ago by RNinMunich
    Hints and Tips.
    Hi Guys, How many times have you had that small piece that you have been working on ping out of your sharp nose pliers or
    never to be seen again? Well my solution is to use a couple of pieces of rubber insulation from electrical wire or some heat shrink tubing. Just pop it over the tips of said tools, this will give a little more grip with out damaging the piece and stops it from pinging out. Martin.
    3 years ago by Martin555
    Best suggestion i Can give is a good industrial barrier cream. Like Rosalex but more modern.Better for Elf'n safety too.Use cocktail sticks or splints of wood to apply small amounts of glue etc. You can't be that bad if you're on the 3rd build though.We all suffer for our hobby like that to some extent . I well remember biting balsa and plastic cement off my fingers. Barring solvents ( Chloroform ,Ether , Acetone,Celly thinners etc) still the best way to shift it. Also use disposable
    to handle small parts or steel ones you can scrape or burn off Good luck John.๐Ÿ˜› P S I found a liquid called Plastic Magic. It is applied to the closed( close fitting )joint with the tip of a fine brush. Just a drop. It shoots along the joint by capillary action. Gravity helps too.๐Ÿค”. I've yet to find a plastic it won't glue/join.brilliant stuff. regards holding things steady to dry many things can be used. Pins,bulldog ,clips,clothes pegs, steel blocks,Lego type blocks
    3 years ago by onetenor

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