Blog

Hawlspipe and Bollards Completed!

Today I worked on the Hawser pipe! Which were tricky to work with. They're small so had to keep. My from sticking to them! Luckily there's only 5 to work with! I also worked on the Bullards. They're not totally completed yet though! I like Bollards with caps on them. I think I'll put caps on them! Oh, The Cap is the very top of the Bollards. It keeps the rope from popping off the Bollard! I think putting the Cap. Will give the Model more detail! Also keep the string from popping off When I go to tow my model barge! Tomorrow, I will complete the Bollards! Then start working on her superstructure! Here comes the fun part......🤞

4 years ago by figtree7nts

Response

Re: One hour challenge.

Hi Jb, I was a little bit younger, thinner, and had a bit more hair on my head. A friend I know has but a ship in a bicycle light bulb, but it took him a lot longer than one hour. He used a microscope, and a small piece of a scalpel blade to calve out the hull and superstructure. He also fitted guns. I must see if I can contact him and get some photos. Martin555.

5 years ago by Martin555

Forum

Fibre optic lighting

Hi Martin, Somewhere on the site, under Electrical gubbins?, I posted some info and photos on some LED lighting experiments I was doing, partly to assist guys wanting to add lights and equip small masts etc. I included a test board with tiny SMD LEDs. They fit nicely between the tracks of a 0.1" (2.54mm) pitch Veroboard 😉 I bought these tiny LEDs primarily with my 1/350 Plastic Magic conversions in mind. Be prepared to work with fine and a 1mm temp controllable soldering iron bit, as well as spending time grovelling around on the floor looking for "the one that got away" 😠 Cheers, Doug 😎

5 years ago by RNinMunich

Blog

New supplies required!

Had to do the ‘glue run’ today. Was in Southampton so went to the Poundland there to buy my tried and trusted two part epoxy and super glue. The spray cans are also great to have and a new product which I hadn’t seen before were the pack of four . All for a £5 note!

5 years ago by GrahamP74

Forum

Hints and Tips.

Good one Martin👍 SELF GRIP Also; you can make fine 'self-gripping' by slipping a piece of flexible silicon tube over the points 😊 Doug 😎

5 years ago by RNinMunich

Forum

Hints and Tips.

Hi Guys, How many times have you had that small piece that you have been working on ping out of your sharp nose pliers or never to be seen again? Well my solution is to use a couple of pieces of rubber insulation from electrical wire or some heat shrink tubing. Just pop it over the tips of said tools, this will give a little more grip with out damaging the piece and stops it from pinging out. Martin.

5 years ago by Martin555

Forum

Glue

Best suggestion i Can give is a good industrial barrier cream. Like Rosalex but more modern.Better for Elf'n safety too.Use cocktail sticks or splints of wood to apply small amounts of glue etc. You can't be that bad if you're on the 3rd build though.We all suffer for our hobby like that to some extent . I well remember biting balsa and plastic cement off my fingers. Barring solvents ( Chloroform ,Ether , Acetone,Celly thinners etc) still the best way to shift it. Also use disposable to handle small parts or steel ones you can scrape or burn off Good luck John.😛 P S I found a liquid called Plastic Magic. It is applied to the closed( close fitting )joint with the tip of a fine brush. Just a drop. It shoots along the joint by capillary action. Gravity helps too.🤔. I've yet to find a plastic it won't glue/join.brilliant stuff. regards holding things steady to dry many things can be used. Pins,bulldog ,clips,clothes pegs, steel blocks,Lego type blocks

5 years ago by onetenor