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    Blog
    Cooling the motor โ€“ update.
    Iโ€™m grateful to mturpin013 for commenting that he considered using the propeller adaptor supplied with the Turnigy motor as it prompted me to retrieve mine from the box and adapt it to secure the fan on the end of the motor. I cut off the threaded shaft from the prop adaptor and the end was ground flat and then I placed it on the end of the motor stub and used a scriber through the bolt holes to mark the positions on the flange of the fan. The fan was then removed and the holes drilled through and opened up to 3mm and then it was a simple matter to put the fan back on the motor and attach the new piece to the motor using the three 2.5mm cap head screws which are supplied with the prop adaptor. I think this is a far better โ€˜engineeringโ€™ solution to securing the fan to the rotor than a spot of CA. Because the addition of the fan was so straightforward and effective I have decided to implement it on the model anyway so I cut an opening through the end panel of the motor cover and put some stainless steel mesh over that to finish it. The motor is now connected to the ESC and I have done some tests with the motor running and Iโ€™m delighted to report that thereโ€™s a very healthy airflow through the motor cover ๐Ÿ˜๐Ÿ‘. It turns out that my modification is not unique at all and credit is due to reilly4 who did something similar to the
    twin motor
    s on one of his boats long before I came up with the idea. He posted a โ€˜photo of his boat when replying to mturpin013 on the subject of servo mounts. Take a look at the motors in his picture!
    9 months ago by robbob
    Forum
    Mclaren Clockwork Submarines U50
    Ahoy Mateys, U50 under construction. its got twin contra rotating props. I made the chassis for the gearbox and motor from an old gas fire that some kind person dumped at the end of my street.I don't mind anything metal but I can do without the mattresses! Cheers.
    9 months ago by mactin
    Forum
    Mtronics W-tail marine mixer connections.
    Thanks John, that's what I was thinking of trying, finally getting my head around the details of the mixing at source. I have another old futaba set with mixing as well, which I used for a Lancaster and found that by controlling ort and starboard motors via mixing made it a really stable flyer. Just hope it will work as well on my boats as I have a couple of fast launches with
    twin motor
    s to get restored and back on the water. Thanks for all the help from everyone and especially you and Dodgy. Cheers Colin
    10 months ago by Colin H
    Forum
    Mtronics W-tail marine mixer connections.
    My boat was already built with
    twin motor
    drive. So I will stick with what I have, may even keep the original rc gear and esc, servo if I locate a transmitter that will operate it successfully. But I thank you for your input, cheers Colin.
    10 months ago by Colin H
    Directory
    (Fire Boat) Fireboat
    Recently acquired Fireboat that needs refurbishment. Existing loose single shaft removed and twin shafts and rudders fitted. To fitted with twin (possibly brushless) motors, each with its own battery and controller. Updates to follow. (5/10)
    11 months ago by Welshsailor
    Directory
    (Pleasure Craft) Hocus Pocus
    A 1950's Fleetline Vagabond boat updated by the previous owner recently converted to RC with 2 "future" 50hp Evinrude Big Twin 50 motors. Vessel is steered buy individual motor speed rather than turning the motors. (Motor: (2) K&O 1957 Evinrude motors) (ESC: (2) Alloet 320 A) (5/10)
    11 months ago by Puddle-pirate
    Response
    BRAVE BORDERER
    Hi there is some stuff on Youtube regards your problem I wonder , I think the
    twin motor
    car people use sensored motors Cheers Ian
    12 months ago by TOWN3810
    Response
    HMS BRAVE BORDERER
    Rowen, here are a couple of things that may be of use to you (and others). The battery alarm will save you worrying about running out of steam as they can be set to beep at varying voltages to warn you of low battery, just put one on each batt balance lead and when one goes off (when an individual cell drops below the set voltage) it means start heading back. These can be picked up on Ebay for a few dollars. I use them on my planes as well and are audable from around 100m (these twin horns are the best) Secondly, re your ESC switches, these electronic switches (AliExpress) are great for this sort of thing (as long as you have enough aux switches on TX ) You can link them with a Y cable to work together or use them independantly for anything, (lights, pumps etc, - they can be operated by TX rotary switches as well) The ESC and 2000kv motor (HK) are the ones I am using in my ASR model and will work smoothly down to a crawl, the purple 1980 kv seems to have superseded these but I think they will be as good. The props are from Ali Express and are resin and available in L and R hand, are only a few bucks and perform perfectly while looking quite scale(ish). I painted them with an acrylic bronze which seems to have stayed on pretty well. Model weighs 2.8kg and will run at more than 10mph flat out with this set-up (using the 26mm L+R) props) which is silly speed and that's with 2x 2s 2200mah lipos (which will last till you get sick of it and still have 60% left) I was just looking at your Daman set-up and noticed the wiring method from the batts to the ESCs. You might want to make your batt to ESC connections direct to your ESCs (as per original ESC lead length)as your capacitors may get a thrashing (spikes) due to the extra length/ resistance you have there. There is a general rule that you don't lengthen the batt to ESC wiring without adding a 220mf capacitor of same voltage as the ESC for every 4"of extra wire length (ESC to motor - not so much). Might want to check this out in case you fry your ESCs You probably have thought of this but thought I'd mention it, 'just in case' Might help with your modulation as well. Have chucked in a vid of the HSL manouvering (first trials so wasn't perfect) and also the MTB (brushed) which I have just converted to a twin system (was twin but single Electronize unit) plus a sound unit. You may know that you can use as many RECs (bound to the same TX) for various purposes on the same boat (have run 2 boats together from the same TX) Might get you round the mixed brushless/ brushed problem with a bit of thought. Have you thought of changing your old HK silver 6DF TX to twin throttles, it's a piece of cake(as is the TGY 6x), just remove the aileron/rudder centering spring and make a friction plate as per throttle stick, and use the elevator channel as your other throttle. Set your ESCs and you can then use a twin system giving you perfect control. Saves a lot of hassle.
    1 year ago by jbkiwi
    Forum
    Brushless motors (again)
    Again, as not wanting to nick someone else's thread. Huntsman 31 currently has a geared (belt) brushed motor which was probably quite a good spec. many years ago. I don't remember how quick it was but having watched brushless boats running this morning in Southsea I have decided now is the time for change before I start painting. I've been reading various threads and gleaned some info but it is still a minefield. Whilst this boat (original) is twin screw I am not yet ready to go that far so will stay single screw. A thread suggested 3639 -1100KV which is fine as a spec. but there are a zillion different makes and models for that spec. Cornwall models seem to offer 6 or 8 so I am looking for more specific advise for make and model of each piece of the power system...motor, ESC, battery, charger. I'm not going to say 'money no object' just that I don't 'need' to buy bottom spec. I suspect there will be as many different suggestions as 'Cornwall' have motor makes but something good will come out of it. Many thanks Steve
    1 year ago by steve-d
    Response
    Friday's Child Fairey Huntsman 31
    They are a great looking craft, I am restoring one myself, please be aware that red paint may contain lead, so wear a mask while sanding. My restoration is of a old Fibre glass hull I intend to install twin rudders and motor shafts and go brushless, I am building the superstructure from scratch with some help from old plans. I want to have a swordsman type cabin.
    1 year ago by CB90
    Forum
    Veron Vosper F.P.B. 52''
    Hi This model is a particular favorite of mine. I am restoring one having converted to twin electric motors. Quite a rare kit but impressive when made and is 52" hull. Hull is really strong and initially made for 10/15cc engine. Cabin structure quite testing to assemble. I have totally re worked mine. Quite a rare kit and probably collectable. Would probably sell well on e bay. Fleetscale do a hull deck and running gear but the cabin would be a challenge due to its unique shape and flying bridge. An excellent find. Regards Kevin
    1 year ago by kevinsharpe
    Forum
    twin motor
    Perkassa
    I attach some pics of my 34" Perkassa. It uses two large water cooled brushed motors (650?). Two Mtronic 25amp ESCs with one red wire disconnected. You can see the ESCs on off switches over the former in the next to last pic. Presently has a Planet Tx/rx and I use 9.6v or 8.4v NiMhs of 3 to 5 amps. Not fused (naughty). The battery sits between the prop shafts towards the stern in a tray. I control the motors on the left and right sticks with the rudder on the right horiz stick. The left stick has a ratchet so I set the speed with that and use the right sticks to keep straight and steer. As an ex flyer this is an easy set up for me. Run time is about 10/15 mins but that's long enough for me and the other models on the lake!
    2 years ago by Dave M
    Blog
    BRAVE BORDERER - BRUSHLESS SUMMARY
    Although have modeling experience, all my earlier vessels used brushed motors. This was my first brushless. The model is now running well, but thought, for the benefit of others considering this transition to summarize my experiences. Must stress the performance of a brushless motor is incredible when compared to a similar sized brushed; for a vessel such as this they are almost obligatory. They are worth the trouble! Had been advised that the best powertrain installation for a 37โ€ Brave Borderer is either a single or twin screws, not three. This was good advice! Much heartache could have been avoided with a single screw installation. Unfortunately, that is not the correct layout for a scale builder. Tried three major powertrain iterations, with several variations within each group. All motors are 28mm O/D : 1) The original installation used 3 x 4600kV inrunner motors with 30 A ESCs. Had bought these items used. The motors were too fast and had little torque. The ESCs also did not have adequate capacity. The result was erratic performance, a high fuse failure rate and the eventual failure of an ESC and motor Picture #1. 2) First upgrade was to 2 x 2400kV inrunner motors, using 50A capacity ESCs. The centre shaft was fitted with a brushed motor. This combination did work, although suffered greatly from motor โ€œsquealโ€ and โ€œstutterโ€. Eventually a motor burnt out and failed. Picture #2 3) Upgrade two: retained the 50 A ESCs, with 2 x 2600 kV outrunner motors, again with the brushed inner shaft motor. Reprogrammed the ESCs to soft start parameters. Much better, performance and reliability can now be considered acceptable. The squeal and stutter are largely corrected it has justified the challenges of getting here. Picture #3 Have tried both 2 and 3S Li-Po batteries, suggest use the minimum voltage needed to achieve the desired performance. Higher voltages translate into faster response and performance, but with less control modulation. The model can be easily overpowered. In summary, from my experience. For a marine application; chose low (under 2000kV) kV rating motors with an outrunner layout wherever possible (produce more torque than inrunners). Use ESCs with a ratings comfortably in excess of the motor ratings, fit fuses to supplement any ESC protections. Ensure the ESCs are programmed to โ€œsoft startโ€ characteristics. Also, the obvious check of making sure shaft alignment is correct is even more important with the higher speed capability of brushless motors. in spite of the trails, cost and tribulations of getting here. Have enjoyed the challenge and the end result does justify the means. Also, do not finally fit the deck until you are satisfied with the performance. Making the changes described with limited access would have been very difficult and frustrating.
    1 year ago by RHBaker
    Media
    ASR 64ft R/C VID 2
    Boat is Scratch built 36" British Power Boat 64ft High Speed ASR Launch which belonged to the RNZAF. The launch was one of the 22 built and was shipped to NZ in 1940. it was the only one of its type in the Southern Hemisphere. Model has
    twin motor
    s, ESCs, sound units etc. Has remotely switched water pump for water cooled brushless 2000kv in runner motors and remotely switched lighting. Uses 2x 2200mah 2s LiPos for drive and 1 1800mah LiPo for the pump (also a separate battery for the LED lights. Boat is built with strip planked balsa on ply frame and fiber glassed. Deck is ply, wheelhouse is varnished balsa. The colour is as it was for most of its time in the RNZAF . Took about 5 years on and off to build and finished it last year. (please ignore the time date - can't get rid of it .
    1 year ago by jbkiwi
    Response
    BRAVE BORDERER
    If you are using 2 ESCs/BEC/UBECs with 2 plugged into 1 receiver you should remove the red wire from one of the plugs and tape it back to the lead, as both plugged in will possibly supply too much voltage for the receiver (you are getting double the voltage from 2 different sources) and this can cause the ESC to stutter . You should have no problems with Brushless out-runner motors as with the correct match with the ESC they should be as smooth as brushed. I have dual 2000kv 28/45 in-runners (with water jackets) and twin ESCs and 2 sound units using 1 receiver in my 64ft ASR model with no problems regarding proportional control (fwd or rev). I had a 28mm O/R in a Maiami ASR and it would crawl along (but the high noise was ear wrecking so have changed it back to brushed for now. I do have a similar slight high pitched squeal at certain speeds on one motor and this may be caused by the particular motor not 'syncing'properly with the ESC (Chinese cheap ESCs and HobbyKing /made in china motors) but short of changing that motor and ESC I am just putting up with it for now. The high pitched sync noise is fairly common and sometimes not fixable, (a number of my larger planes do it and its audible from 100m away (also amplified by a hull,-nice sound box). it can depend on the way a particular motor is wound (no 2 are identical) or even magnet placement/timing, as the may be hand wound by 2 very nice Chinese ladies at different ends of a bench ( just read some of the Hobby King motor reviews ) You could try changing the frequency on the ESC if it has that option as a higher motor Kv sometimes requires a higher frequency. Also make sure your ESC is set to the correct battery cell count. if it has an auto setting that should usually work best for general applications unless you are running fancy motors. Regarding interference, make sure you keep your aerial as far as poss from the motors and ESCs (even on 2.4 - I put mine right up in the bow) and there should be no problems. I have had 2 twin engined boats (my MTB & ASR) 1 brushed and 1 brushless running side by side 10" apart using the same radio for both (same type of Rec in each boat) with no problems at all. The bow down is probably prop shaft angle (the shallower the better) but if you are using counter rotating props you could try swapping props (inward rotation to outward) and motor rotation to see if it makes a difference. Also with 2800Kv motors you should be using small props (around 28-30mm diam 3 blade) as these motors are made to rev) as on a 2s battery they will be turning at around 20,000 dry and perhaps 18,000 wet (depending on prop) and if you load them too much they will cook with no cooling (assuming they are around 28mm dia ?) Only other thought - silicone couplings will squeal real loud if they slip.
    1 year ago by jbkiwi
    Forum
    bulkheads
    Hi Haig, seems to be a common mistake to get Schottel Drives (Z-Drives) and Voith - Schneider confused with one another! First two pics show a twin Voith propeller on a tug hull (as on the plan above) and the operating principle. 3rd pic is cross section of the Z-Drive as produced by the Schottel company. it is a 360ยฐ rotating 'pod'. Newer versions have electric motors built into the pod and don't need the mechanical Z transmission from inside the hull. With such pods under bow and stern even bow and stern side thrusters are redundant ๐Ÿ˜Š 4th pic is the Graupner version, Mk II. https://www.graupner.com/Schottel-Drive-II-new-version-/2335/ Cheers, Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž
    1 year ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    1/16th scale Tamar
    I'm considering Model Slipay Tamar Class as my next project. I have never used styrene before (other than Airfix in my youth). Every article I have read on this model have used a twin Speed 600 ECO set up. I am toying with the idea of brushless but have no idea where to start in terms of equivalent motors etc. any idea anyone?๐Ÿ˜
    1 year ago by marlina2
    Blog
    BRAVE BORDERER
    Blog 4 update โ€“ Adjustable transom flap using metallic tape did not work. Think the vibration caused flexing and fatigue, so it finally split. Fortunately had established the correct angle, so reproduced the flap arrangement with a fixed thin alloy plate. Much more robust. Have installed the new brushless motors and ESCs. The current layout is brushless motors on the outer propellers and brushed on the centre, all powered by a single 3S Li-Po battery and Rx. Am hoping to commence water trails this week, but have found an issue which was also present with the original brushless motors. When either brushless motor is powered up it operates nicely, however, as soon as the second motor is started either motor โ€œstuttersโ€ and a pronounced โ€œsquealโ€ can be heard. The brushed motor is unaffected. Have now tried several ESCs but to no avail, the issue remains. It can be cured though by powering each brushless motor with it's own battery. When this is done everything powers up cleanly and quietly. The obvious solution is to use two Li-Po batteries and abandon the single battery approach. Am reluctant to do this as the model weight will increase yet again. Has anybody experienced this when using twin brushless motors and, if so, how was it resolved?
    1 year ago by RHBaker
    Forum
    Which battery?
    I have a 1:16 Taymar lifeboat with twin Graupner 600 motors. Which batteries, Lead Acid or NiMH. Can anyone help please, what is the benefit of one over the other?
    1 year ago by Brianaro
    Forum
    RE ads90's Vosper Firefloat
    Your answer even quicker ๐Ÿ˜ฒ OK, if you don't want to practice
    twin motor
    control using two sticks, like tank driver, then I suggest the Action Electronics mixer board (as discussed during your aborted tug conversion๐Ÿค”). You'll probably need the 20A version with those motors. Cheers, Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž
    1 year ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    RE ads90's Vosper Firefloat
    Hi Neil, Looks like a somewhat simplified Range Safety Launch to me, the 43ft version from 1955 - , but the number is dead wrong. http://www.rafboats.co.uk/rsl43.html Scale between around 11 - 12 to 1. LoA - 11.7 Beam - 11.1! Twin props should ALWAYS turn in opposite directions to counteract the so called prop walk which otherwise shifts the stern sideways in the direction the props are turning - seen from behind when the boat is moving forward. the jury is still out on whether they should turn outwards or inwards; with respect to the top of the prop when going forwards and seen from behind. Separate motor control (so called 'Tank Steering') is great for slow speed manoeuvrability and very sharp turns at speed (to be used with caution!), but is not easy and needs a lot of practice! A twin ESC / Rudder Mixer is easier๐Ÿ˜‰ For scale; 3 blade props. Suggest you start a new thread for this. Ciao, Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž
    1 year ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    RE ads90's Vosper Firefloat
    Is this the right p[lace for.......................... So this is what I haveโ€ฆโ€ฆโ€ฆโ€ฆโ€ฆ. A good size to get my hands in! I assume it is a โ€˜Tenderโ€™ of some sort. What is best to do with the โ€˜outlineโ€™ so it meets some sort of classification? At 44inches long and 14 inches wide would that be 1/12 scale? Should the twin props both turn the same way (left)? Is it worth running motors separately for greater control? Two blade prop or three? Is there someone there with all the answers? Well that will do for a startโ€ฆโ€ฆโ€ฆโ€ฆโ€ฆ.. NPJ
    1 year ago by NPJ
    Forum
    Brushless motor selection
    I am hope to change twin prop drive on an old Aerokits 46" Crash Tender to brushless motors. Current drives are Graupner 820 Race motors with "Propshop" 35mm diam. 3 blade cleaver props. Would like to retain props as they are efficient but can someone with experience recommend some good inrunner brushless motors for me. Thanks in advance
    2 years ago by robhenry
    Forum
    46''Vosper Crash Tender Lesro
    Have a query here busy with Vosper 46" I intend to put a twin drive in using aP94 electronic controller ex action electronics Some of the design says to use 2 Graupner 900 speed motor these are no longer available any suggestions as I need the gel cells for ballast I think MFA Come 850's might be overkill Thanks
    2 years ago by Ianh
    Forum
    It's a sad day!.
    Martin you do have a way with words, I like it!, yes, and steam locomotives run on at least ten times the pressure of a steam driven boat. Happy memory's of the old New Brighton lake, my nan and mum would take me over from Liverpool on the ferry, which in those days went to New Brighton, with my pride and joy under my arm, my "victory models fire boat" remember the one? all plastic with twin brass screws driven by a mighty midget motor. The old lake was demolished approx' 10 to 15 years ago and the new one constructed 30 yards further up. I was there as demolition was going on and the old lake was a large heap of concrete and rubble fenced off to the public. Do you know to this day I so so regret not squeezing through the fence and taking a hand size piece of the concrete side wall, the concrete wall I would have lent over 1000 times as a young boy of seven to launch my boats.
    2 years ago by stormin
    Directory
    (Naval Ship) MTB379
    This model was originally built by my father in the 50's for i.c. power. it was laid up in 1962 and remained inactive until two years ago. At that point, I egan recommissioning it, fitting twin brushless motors in place of the deafening single glow motor and straight-cut gears. I also added a great deal detail that my dad had never added. it performs very well nicely in this guise with the added drama of a throttle-linked digital sound system. (5/10)
    2 years ago by wunwinglo
    Blog
    WWII Italian MAS 562
    Skinned the frames added deck and splash rail also started on cabin and superstructure, added rudder and installed twin brushed Graupner 600 motors via Graupner style direct couplings. Motor mounting system through a bulkhead gives extra support to motors which mount on to end of the shafts. currently adding a rudder servo mount, as rudder is a close copy of the real boat's and still functional.
    2 years ago by CB90
    Blog
    H.M.S. BRAVE BORDERER
    Just to clarify. Shipping was only 7 days to Canada, manufacture slightly longer. Examined the hull closely and was pleased. it is dimensionally accurate and robust, but light. it had also been reinforced in strategic areas and trimmed to the correct deck line. My many questions to Christian Sheppard โ€“ Capurro of MTBHulls were quickly and knowledgeably answered. A company I would recommend others. Reviewing the build blogs and U Tube videos of the both the Brave and Perkasa models, shows most use either single or twin screws. The original vessel had a triple screw contra - rotating layout. Experience from others suggests the third screw just adds weight and complexity, but little to the performance. Nevertheless, it was how the Braves were built, so that was how it would be. Christian gave several suggestions for other modelers who have built this vessel. Contacted them and was readily provided with information and advice. The finished weight of this model is important and a target of around 6 lbs recommended for a 1:32 scale version. This is to achieve the potential performance. Plans for drivetrain are 3 x 2835 4500kVa brushless motors, direct driving 3 x scale 3 blade 30mm screws. Decided use a single Li-Po battery for the best performance with minimum weight. It was suggested three batteries, each powering a single motor would be the best layout. After some research, concluded this would introduce a weight penalty and was discounted. There are various ideas for the best drivetrain. Unfortunately none for triple screws. Decided the best approach would be to fit the bare hull out as planned, then try it. Leaving all the finishing features for later. A contact in Australia had already done this using a single screw layout and kindly sent pictures of his hull layout and then under test. Very informative. The positions of the rudders, propellers and shafts are established by the scale dimensions and were permanently installed. Everything else was to be temporarily fitted, so it could be moved or replaced if necessary.
    2 years ago by RHBaker
    Directory
    (Racing Boat) Interceptor
    Zoom 1 (Interceptor) Mono boat. Built from a Glassfibre hull, brought on Ebay for ยฃ35 the hull is a slim mono racing type with a self-righting side cabin it runs a 1400W 14V 2958 4200KV Brushless Motor and 29-S Water Cooling Jacket with additional air cooling fan. I did not want to use a flexi drive as high maintenance and prone to failure so the shaft runs via two universal joint one at each end. the propeller is a 38mm copper alloy The ESC is a 200A and water cooled the twin rudders supply separate water one for the motor and one for the ESC. The rudder are positioned to reduce prop-walk and are hinged to prevent damage if hit a object in the water and ride adjustment. Turn fins and trim tabs for ride adjustment were provided by a spares kit for another boat. also foamed and added an inner sealed hatch, a rubber bump strip and safety loop. The Boat is fast and over-powered used at half throttle, may use a 7.4v lipo instead, the self righting works well. 20th April 2018 while running on 11.1v the boat stopped, no response on retrieval it was found that the manufacturers battery connector had melted and the connection lost see later pictures. the battery was made by FLOUREON and was a 35C with 5500mah capacity the 80A fuse had not blown. (Motor: 2958 watercooled) (ESC: Unknown 200A) (8/10)
    2 years ago by CB90
    Forum
    Aerokits Patrol Torpedo Boat
    Hi Mate, there was an offer on ebay ยฃ5 each for 2200mah 3s lipo's, so i took the plunge, bought 8 of the beasts, 2x2 in my Fireboat, with twin 700BB motors, thinking of swapping to brushless but SWIMBO has ideas for the garden!!!! Mark
    2 years ago by jarvo
    Response
    Hovercraft
    One of our members used a couple of old drone bits to make a twin prop version with steerable nozzles. Worked OK but very twitch as only a small craft like yours and the motors were powerful.
    2 years ago by Dave M
    Forum
    Flyer 15, racing hydroplane
    thank you boaty thought i might put small twin brushless motor and use a mixer to save trying to fit a rudder.
    2 years ago by BigAlio
    Forum
    Fairey Huntsman & Swordsman
    I dont uses mixes, but do use exponential and rates (spektrum dx6i) with my twin screw brushless 4 foot fireboat. When at speed rates on, then it turns nicer, no roll, when going slow rates off so turns are sharper, if that makes sense. Mixing the throttles.. interesting not thought of that, but it will lose power/speed. We use mixing on planes for taxiing, particularly on water, but once airborne its off. My avatar has this as the cheapo motors just wont balance so it compensates for this on the water. With the boat its easier to control with rudder input. I like the thinking though!๐Ÿ˜
    2 years ago by pmdevlin
    Forum
    Fairey Huntsman & Swordsman
    Does any one have experience of models with
    twin motor
    s in the Fairey Huntsman and Swordsman? (Or any boat) Would like what size the model was - what motor(s) were used and prop sizes, and was there any 'mixing' of motor control with rudder control.
    2 years ago by AndyG009
    Forum
    46'' Firefloat What Motor/Battery
    Hi John, you might now be scratching your head, and wishing you have not asked the original question! This seems to be a common issue, as the boating community is light years behind the other disciplines, rc cars, planes helis and so on, its probably due to the facts general boating doesnt really need the later generation technology, the average boater age is probably higher than the other disciplines so budgeting might be an issue, and there is less younger blood in the clubs to explain the lipo/brushless etc. We see posts with a load of numbers, specs, warnings etc, its enough to put people off. Im a big fan of brushless/lipo/ 2.4 etc, been doing it for years, its cheaper and more efficient (once you have the basics) but for the average guy, who just wants to spend an easy afternoon at the local lake gently cruising around, brushed motors, nimhs batteries, even lead acid, will do the job๐Ÿ‘ Your 4 foot ply boat, once painted, with fittings, will be heavy, I know, I own one. Those 600 motors are not big enough, they are better suited to the smaller 3 foot boat, then, pushing them with a 6v lead acid, just cant do it. The battery will be screaming HELP!! I started 15 years back exactly the same, 600 motor, 6v battery, massive 50mm prop, I knew no better and took advise from people who didnt know what they were talking about๐Ÿ˜ก, remember those gold hi tech speed controllers!! I had one, it melted, literally melted on the first use๐Ÿ˜ญ Get 700 size motors, they will need to be water cooled, as mentioned by jarvo, the nominal voltage or below isnt good enough, power them at the max voltage. Brushed means you can use one apropriate esc, look out for electronize (are they still in existance?) or mtroniks, preferably use nimhs batteries over lead acid with a high mah. If after all this you want to venture into lipos and brushless motors, go to a club, spot a boat that is similar in size to yours, if you like the performance talk to the owner and gain experience and knowledge that way, it will save money, lost time and a lot of disappointment, I have been there so feel your pain. I say I would never go back to brushed motors and none lipo batteries, but I always want silly speed, not runtime, after 15 minutes Ive had enough and am bored. Rambling over! My 4 foot boat is twin brushless and uses 4 lipo 5000mah cells per motor, it will do 25mph for 15 mins, then I go home๐Ÿ˜ Message is, you can get a "reasonable" performance from brushed motors, with the correct batteries, right props, but weight is the enemy. Looks lie you are at Biddulph, get onto Dave M a moderator on here, and arrange to go over to see the crewe and district boys on one of their sailing days, take your boat with you, they will help๐Ÿ‘
    2 years ago by pmdevlin
    Forum
    34'' Crash Tender - prop / rudder type
    Peter, Had a look at the Raboesch site, the prop i looked at was the Metric 162 - 17, 40mm dia. As you are looking at a 42mm motor, this should give more than enough grunt. What make of motor are you looking at??? my 46" Crash Tender has
    twin motor
    s, with 45mm dia props, the motors are from Airtec, a Yorkshire model shop, might be worth a look at their site Mark
    2 years ago by jarvo
    Forum
    46'' Firefloat What Motor/Battery
    Hi Jarvo I also have a 46" Fire boat, but, it's only single shaft as I am the second owner. I am using a L5055-700kv, 4S 5800mah 40C Lipo, 60Amp esc and a 2 blade 52mm prop. In a twin setup a pair of Hobbyking 3639-1100kv on 3S or 4S batteries with 60Amp ESC's and 3 blade 37mm props and if you wish more speed a straight change over to the sister motors the 3648-1450kv but you may have to drop the props back to 2 blade 40mm. Canabus
    2 years ago by canabus
    Response
    The Vosper 46โ€ RAF Crash Tender Kit By Vintage Model Works
    Hi Mate and welcome to the forum, (mad as hatters!!!) I have built the 46" and before you get to far in you need to decide if your having single or
    twin motor
    s, and rudders, that way you dont fall foul of bulkheads, and shaft mountings, mine has Graupner 700bb motors on 3s lipos, but i am up-grading them to brushless soon, have the new ESC,s and the motors are on order. Great model to build and sail, attracts a lot of attention. Mark
    2 years ago by jarvo
    Forum
    Props
    Hello Doug Thanks for all of the useful information and yes it is a 'Black Art' and I have been party to some heated debates regarding props on large passenger carrying boats. I was highly amused by the link to 'Raboesh' which if it wasn't a Chinese company should have been. The model I am building is a Rother class lifeboat which will have twin props and a single rudder and I have read that due to the limited swing of the rudder the turning circle of the boat is much improved by having independently powered motors. Not at that stage yet still early days of the build. Thanks again and best regards Chris G
    2 years ago by ChrisG
    Response
    Al KHUBAR 2
    Built one of these a few years ago. Great for tug towing and rescue work. Had an Action mixer at one time and with two separate 6v batteries worked great. I could literally spin in the spot. Moved to
    twin motor
    control as I used to fly model planes and was used to using all four stick axis. Not sure a bow thruster will work well on this model as it is so manouverable. Makes into a nice realistic model and I wish I had kept mine. If I were to make another I would make a better seal of the rear deck, it leaks like mad in it's designed fit. I eventually made a raised coaming round the opening. Coming along nicely.
    2 years ago by Dave M
    Directory
    (US WESTERN RIVER TOWBOAT) ILLINI LOYAL
    ANOTHER ON THE WAYS: SALVAGED DUMAS ABS HYDRODYNE HULL, 35 X 10 X 2" ORIGINALLY IN THE AMERICAN BEAUTY KIT. MY INTENT IS TO SCRATCH BUILD FROM THIS HULL, A SINGLE-DECK TWIN SCREW LINEHAUL TOWBOAT WITH A FUNCTIONING TELESCOPING PILOTHOUSE. THEY ARE COMMON ON THE UPPER ILLINOIS RIVER WHERE THERE ARE FIXED OVERPASSES OR LOW OBSTRUCTIONS SPANNING THE WATERWAY. THE DES PLAINES AND CALUMET RIVERS IN THE CHICAGO AREA ALSO HARBOR THESE PUSHBOATS. THE PLAN IS TO KEEP HER LIGHT WITH A LOW CG, BUT POWERFUL ENOUGH TO PUSH SOME SCALE WEIGHT; I RECKON 775 MOTORS WITH 50MM 5-BLADE WHEELS WILL SUFFICE. THIS BOAT WILL BE STEERED WITH STANDARD RUDDERS, NO FLANKING RUDDERS, BECAUSE I WANT TO KEEP IT SIMPLE. (K.I.S.S.) I AM STILL BRAINSTORMING THE SYSTEM FOR RAISING/LOWERING THE PILOTHOUSE; POSSIBLY A SERVO WINCH & CABLE OR LINEAR SERVO. A PNEUMATIC RIG IS ALSO A POSSIBILITY I RECKON. SHE WILL BE WEARING THE ORANGE TRIM AND MIDNIGHT BLUE PAINT SCHEME OF MY SHOP-ILLINIWEK MARINE SCALE SHIPYARD. I USE LIGHTHOUSE LED's & MINI SWITCHES FROM THE SEATTLE AREA EXCLUSIVELY, 9V, 3MM. HARBOR MODELS 1.5V WORKING RADAR & MAYBE A 6V WORKING DECK CAPSTAN WILL BE ADDED. SHE IS MY 5TH ADDITION TO THE ILLINIWEK MARINE FLEET, AND WILL OF COURSE PUSH AHEAD THE MATCHING BARGES. GO FIGHTING ILLINI! (Motor: 775 JOHNSON TYPE) (ESC: DIMART 320A FAN-COOLED) (8/10)
    2 years ago by circle43nautical
    Forum
    Twin Esc/Mixer
    I have an Esc/Mixer from Action Electronics. A P94 which I am thinking of using to control the
    twin motor
    s on a Richardson Tug. Now I am very new to this sort of thing and when I unpacked it I found it has two plastic panels attached to the circuit board at right angles and measuring 50mm or 2โ€ up into the air. I cannot find any reference to these in the paper work. Are they just to attach the board to something or of greater significance? Also when connecting up the unit to the motors, are there any โ€˜special issuesโ€™ I need to be aware of? Help needed please. NPJ
    2 years ago by NPJ
    Forum
    46'' Firefloat What Motor/Battery
    Hi JJ. Just a word of warning, your Mtronics esc will not work with brushless motors, also 20amps is close to its limit with
    twin motor
    s and fairly large props, performance wise, brushless is the way to go, but will need 2 esc's, wont run with one, if your dropping hints to the elves, spec your motors at about 700 watts and 600-700kva great torque with good revs at 7.2v even better at 12v Mark
    2 years ago by jarvo
    Response
    Electronics Down Below (5)
    Hi Neil, You read too much!! ๐Ÿ˜‰ Before you give yourself the work of altering the rudders see how she performs with the twin ESC & rudder mixer. For slow manoeuvring, especially in reverse, I'm pretty sure the rudders will be almost irrelevant, apart of course for controlling the mixer and hence motors. If you use the P94 in Mode 3 you can spin the boat on it's axis๐Ÿ˜‰ The guys with small rudders in front of the props most likely don't have twin ESCs and a mixer. Two maxims: Why complicated when simple works! If it ain't broke don't fix it! I intend to 'suck it and see' first. Whatever you do have fun with it, but don't 'over engineer', cheers Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž
    2 years ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    twin motor
    control problem
    I was just nice to see her sail Dave. it was very quiet at Bury today, I guess a lot of people thought the lake would be frozen with the early frost we had.
    2 years ago by John2
    Forum
    twin motor
    control problem
    Twin 550 brushed motor Pt 109. Motors run fine on the bench (forward and reverse). When in the water the boat goes only in reverse despite the direction of the stick. Have tried another radio and have the same problem. The motors have independent viper ESCโ€™s. Originally it used a cable splitter and then used a mixer and the problem remains any ideas?
    2 years ago by John2
    Forum
    twin motor
    control problem
    Hi John Glad to hear you have a working boat. The new wiring and ESCs have clearly removed any previous faults in the connection between the battery and the ESCs. It was a beautiful calm day at Boundary Park, Cheshire and I sailed my Perkassa so must have been a good day for fast patrol crafts.
    2 years ago by Dave M
    Forum
    twin motor
    control problem
    Very please to hear that Happy sailing ๐Ÿ˜Š Although as an engineer I always hate unsolved mysteries, gives me a creepy feeling that the real problem hasn't gone away ๐Ÿค” All's well that ends well! ๐Ÿ‘
    2 years ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    twin motor
    control problem
    Hi Doug, I am running late tonight due to my list of jobs! The problem is solved! I still do not understand what the problem was but the replacement of the escs has done the trick and she now performs as she should! Sailing today was a real pleasure thanks everyone for your help.
    2 years ago by John2
    Forum
    twin motor
    control problem
    Hi John, earlier you wrote "Sometimes I have control of the speed on other occasions it has gone to full speed reverse and I have no control." Full reverse and non control is the classic case of aircraft Failsafe - Throttle full back!!!! You need to reset your TX to Throttle OFF for failsafe, and then look very closely at where your antenna is mounted. The RX should / may have two antenna wires these must be arranged at 90ยฐ to each other and one vertical, one horizontal. Cheers Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž
    2 years ago by RNinMunich


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