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    Response
    Re: Joining the fuselage.
    Hi again Pete, Check the specs before you order! MFA's 380
    version
    does about 19k revs!!๐Ÿ˜ฎ Look for original Mabuchis or Johnsons. They are a bit tamer๐Ÿ˜‰ 25mm could be a problem! I think the 380s / 385s are all 27-28mm๐Ÿค” Scrape a mil off the inside of your tech rack tube!? OR, go for a 280 size (23.8mm dia๐Ÿ˜Š) such as this from AliExpress- https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Gasoline-generator-accessories-2-7KW-168F-170F-188F-190F-gasoline-engine-GX160-spark-plug/32829174930.html Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž
    4 hours ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Help identify
    Hi Sidley, Glad I could help resolve the mystery ๐Ÿ˜Š Clue was the most unusual structure of the foredeck. I'm pretty certain that this 'one off' never ever wore the number 1258! I've not seen any other
    version
    s with this foredeck structure. Which of course doesn't necessarily mean they didn't exist! I can only assume that the model builder used the Pennant number 1258 from sheer nostalgia for a boat he may have served on, but 1258 sure wasn't built like the model you have. Whatever, have great fun sailing her, post some pics / videos when she's finished please ๐Ÿ‘ All the best, Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž
    7 days ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Hints and Tips.
    Great tip Colin, thanks๐Ÿ‘ Now I know how to fix a model of a boat I sailed on in Brazil several years ago 'Queen Lory' in Buzios. I was working in the Brazilian navy yard in Rio for several weeks and used to go up to Buzios at the weekends. That's the sort of thing I miss since retiring. All the office politics rubbish I don't miss at all ๐Ÿ˜‰ Managed to stick my thumb through the cabin roof of the modelโ˜น๏ธ Been thinking of scaling it up to make an RC
    version
    . I'll take some pics tomorrow. (make that later today๐Ÿ˜ฎ) Cheers, Doug PS Wadaya know! Found some pics of the original on the web! https://www.google.com/search?q=queen+lory+buzios&client=firefox-b-d&tbm=isch&source=iu&ictx=1&fir=ouxXG__-25HQmM%253A%252CGg1hT_kx_6p82M%252C_&vet=1&usg=AI4_-kQw9hQsdZ1jaB_ASAtDMfmBHHKh4g&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwiapu__0OziAhVDU1AKHZQ2D3QQ9QEwBXoECAAQBg#imgrc=ouxXG__-25HQmM:
    10 days ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Reversing Field-Wound motors
    That's what I intend to do Dodgy, with my Target. If I'm happy with it I'll fit it to my fish cutter. As you say it eliminates the voltage drop across the diodes, and also the heat generated in the bridge๐Ÿ‘ @ Colin-H; if you like I'll send you one to replace the rectifier
    version
    you have? Cheers, Doug
    12 days ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Battery backup
    Hey! Thought you hitting the sack? What happened? Sack hit back? ๐Ÿค•๐Ÿ˜‰ Yep, on the LiPo
    version
    s (like mine) you can set the threshold for 2.7V upwards. Didn't know there were also NiMh
    version
    s. But then - I haven't looked! The primary function of these cheap little gadgets is a quick rough indication of the battery voltage, and the individual cell voltages. It's only a rough guide - Go / No Go for another run so to speak. My comparative measurements using a mains Lab voltmeter showed considerable discrepancy so I'm not sure I'd rely on it as an alarm. OTOH; if it works for your aircraft - Why not? I agree, LiPo con
    version
    is the way. I've tried my best here but some folks are still afraid of LiPos. I have tried to explain that if you buy quality not cheapest you can find and follow the rules there shouldn't be any problem. I admit I still have some NiMh which I use together with ESCs which are not 'LiPo safe'; i.e. they do not have the built in cut off function (or throttle limiter on some hi end
    version
    s) designed for use with LiPos. So far I have ONLY seen this function for LiPos. Coming up to midnight up here so it's my turn to 'hit the sack', G'night all. Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž ๐Ÿ’ค๐Ÿ’ค PS I get RX Low battery warning on the TX display! ๐Ÿ˜‰
    13 days ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Hints and Tips.
    Or a shorter
    version
    I was told when about 12yrs old, by a boat builder,- there's no red port left in the bottle. Same thing but different. (NZ
    version
    )
    16 days ago by jbkiwi
    Forum
    Help and advice please
    Excellent suggestion TG ๐Ÿ‘ I use the German branded
    version
    of this system and it works perfectly. You only have to first dump or overwrite all the default aircraft/heli presets! Gren: dump the 27MHz receiver. Your chances of finding a matching transmitter are remote. And the 27MHz band is prone to severe interference anyway ๐Ÿค” Cheers, Doug Oh! BTW: Welcome aboard ๐Ÿ‘
    18 days ago by RNinMunich
    Response
    Re: WTC/Sub Driver.
    Thanks Martin. This project really does look right up my street. I will give it some thought. That`s enough of that thinking. Over rated. I will look for the basic kit. Amazon have the Revell 850394 which appears to be the same kit but a later
    version
    . I will look into that. Thanks Martin. Peter. Yes Doug....Another project. I hope to be retired for a very long time.๐Ÿ˜Š
    22 days ago by MouldBuilder
    Forum
    Glue
    Martin - don't you have to use something like Mek Poly for ABS . I bought a model tug kit with ABS hull (George Turner) - ordinary polystyrene cement did not even touch it The UHU
    version
    which is stronger than the other types did not work. Tried 4 different glues with nothing doing then used Mek Poly - instant bond. Been told that its actually used as a hardener for polyester resin - so got 500ml of hardener (cheap) but have not had cause to use it yet.
    2 months ago by redpmg
    Response
    Re: (Naval Ship) HMS Belfast
    Hi Doug. I have a half built Graupner Taucher Wulf in my โ€œstashโ€ of kits. I put it away to come back to later. That kit, like your Premium Line warships, is a little disappointing. The hull is fiberglass, and some of the fittings are ok, but the instructions are horrid. Iโ€™m an accomplished modeler, but donโ€™t make me guess where to drill for the rudder post!!! Things like that. Iโ€™ve built 3 Micro Magicโ€™s, all race
    version
    s, the first was an original German kit, the last two are from later, when Graupner reorganized. If I hadnโ€™t built the original kit first, I would have a heck of a time building the other two. Now, to Graupner credit, the last MM I built seemed to be a little better than the second, and all three sail well. I just wish Graupner would do a little better job on their manuals, and quality control. Krick has done a fine job with the RO-Marin kits, hope they keep it up. Part of the reason I like German kit manufacturers so much is a bit of nostalgia, I was stationed at Ramstein AB from 1988 to 1992, I have fond memories of building kits from Robbe, Graupner and Krick when I was stationed there. Anyhow, back to the new Graupner kits...I feel your pain.
    2 months ago by Cashrc
    Forum
    Aerokits pt boat plan
    The second of these is the Aerokits 40" PT Boat. It was the only plan which came with the kit, though there were comprehensive instructions as well. The first of these is a rather confusing mixture of two copies of the EeZeBilt 20" PT boat cutting lines (of completely different construction to the Aerokits), the EeZeBilt RAF Crash Tender (early
    version
    with errors), two sets of PT boat instructions and the cutting lines for a small original Keil Kraft propeller. Don't you think it would be much better to reference the web site for download, where A&R can select a boat, see the build log, completed pictures, and obtain the latest plans with error corrections for them - http://eezebilt.tk/plans.html ?
    2 months ago by DodgyGeezer
    Media
    Fairacre broads cabin cruiser
    Saved from a farm rubbish bin and restored. It was originally scratch built from a 60s/70s RCM ? plan. Photos of rebuild are in the harbour. Not sure if it was originally built in the UK and immigrated to NZ as it's an unusual subject for a NZ build. Plans are apparently still available. I've just found some info on Bates 'Starcraft' cruisers, UK. Looks like the original R/C plan may have been modeled on a
    version
    of one of the 'Starcraft' variants.
    2 months ago by jbkiwi
    Forum
    Look for a simple balsa build
    Having owned a laser cutter for nearly 10 years , I have found that most old hand drawn plans are inaccurate and a lot of the old die cut kit parts are not only inaccurate but in most cases the bulkheads for instance are asymmetrical. When making a model you have to first correct the bulkheads etc (not difficult using Corel) and then cut a prototype to determine what further errors there are. Back to the drawing board to correct those, and then a further test cut etc. In the early days it would take about 6
    version
    s to correct all the errors , but with experience have now whittled it down to about 3 as areas likely to have errors can be anticipated. There is also the difficulty of for instance "3mm" thick material that can vary from about 2.7mm to 3.4mm and that can mean parts don't fit. Having said that I have cut most of the EezEbilt models from the site and the errors are minor besides being balsa they are easy to correct especially using water-resistant quick drying PVA glue. With enlarged
    version
    s you have to correct the slots etc so its easy enough to check on Corel for any inaccuracies. (That is one of the beauties of digital plans - you can produce a model at any size you choose). Most Lasers use dxf CAD files which Corel converts for you either way importing or exporting. One of the drawbacks my partner and I see is that in CAD drawings a curve is represented by a large number of straight lines which makes for a very large file. In Corel a curve is simply a curve and hence a much smaller file. PDF files are very problematic for most modellers as for instance two files imported from the same source can vary in size dramatically and you then have parts that don't match. The same applies to printing pdf plans in parts on an A4 printer - the pages very often don't line up. JPG files are much less of a problem as sizes go. My personal feeling is that the mismatch of parts is probably due to the use of pdf files with their associated problems. Some printers unfortunately do not allow you to adjust sizes other than in a rudimentary fashion.
    2 months ago by redpmg
    Forum
    CNC boat kits...?
    Aluminium for stables? Perhaps a slab of oak would be more appropriate? I am cutting slices off old oak fence posts for use as coasters and think I can engrave them using the 'boat motor cutter' - so long as the cut is not deep. A laser would be ideal - but the cost and the danger mean that it needs a bit of thinking about. I must look up the Rumba and mega2560. One issue I have with the Uno and GRBL is that the software does not do 'tool radius compensation'. You have to do this in your con
    version
    , and Dfx2Gcode does not do this either. I do not know if there is a GRBL
    version
    running on the 2650 which does do this. Essentially you need a GRBL which implements G41/2 commands, or you will have to do the compensation in your original drawing. I am using sub-milimeter cutting tools for balsa, so the compensation required is negligible and can be ignored, but when cutting ply I may need to worry about it. Your TMC2130s may not need endstops, but the limit switches are also used for homing. You will find that if you want to cut lots of parts out of a single sheet of material, it helps to be able to home accurately. GRBL allows you to have a 'master machine home' and then several subsidiary homes. So, when cutting, I start with the cutter in the master home position in the top right corner, then move it to a secondary home position which is directly over the workpiece top right, then do all of my cutting in relation to that secondary home position...
    2 months ago by DodgyGeezer
    Response
    Re: Z-39 German WW2 Destroyer
    Excellent job Haig๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿ‘ I see you've even managed to build in the lousy seakeeping of the originals!๐Ÿ˜‰ Caused by trying to make up for lack of numbers by giving them light cruiser guns. Looking forward to one of your great videos of her. I have the 1/72 plans for an earlier type 1936
    version
    in my stash. Idea is to make a contemporary opponent for my 1/72 H class HMS Hotspur H01 as in the Narvik battle. HMS Hotspur in pic alongside my 1/72 U-25. She has rotating aft turrets only as the foredeck is one piece glued in to stiffen the hull. Working on a 'plug-in module' idea (like the Blohm & Voss MEKO ships) to get round that. Also has NAV, search and signal lamps, whoop whoop and fog horns, smoker and a somewhat 'out of period' rotating radar on the director tower. That will be replaced with a more typical Yagi array - when I can get around to it.๐Ÿค” (Anyone got a Round Tuit to spare please?๐Ÿคฃ) Keep 'em coming Haig. Cheers Doug๐Ÿ˜Ž
    2 months ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Model Boat crew....
    Maybe another way (certainly in 1/72 scale) is to pewter cast new crew. I took the original figures included with the Flower Class model and made a RTV silicon cast of them (to ensure I had an original copy) This method is simple - place the figures into plasticine contained within a lego 'walled' structure, then pour on something like GP-3481 from Polycraft (Although I use MBR-s
    version
    ). Once cured, repeat in reverse to get complete figures i.e put half silicon mold containing the figures at bottom of box, paint on some vaseline as a mold release and to stop the silicon bonding to itself, then pour more silicon. Wait for it to set and then split the new mold, remove the original figures, cut some feed and vents and then clamp halves together after dusting with talc and then cast them in Pewter. I made about 20 figures and then set about changing arm positions, legs, caps etc with simple jewellers files etc. Then I recast the figures in more silicon, more pewter and finally painted and posed them. The RTV and Pewter casting techniques are widely seen on YouTube and I found it so easy. It's not the cheapest way (although it undercuts buying cast white metal figures commercially) and it meant I could not only get the crew looking how I wanted, but the molds last ages and I can recast many more at any time for the next project. Incidentally, I always use scrap lead free pewter found on line or in local car boots for pennies. As an aside, I also used the same technique to make many more splinter canvases for the bridge of HMCS Regina - saved me buying more!
    3 months ago by Spock66
    Response
    Re: Steam engine.
    I am pleased to hear you are doing a building blog, and even more so in the fact it will be steam powered. Both myself and plenty of others will be monitoring your progress with interest, and I wouldn't worry about the time factor as it takes as long as it takes, and it's as simple as that. I think your Formidable LT100 has inspired me enough to buy the John Hemmings
    version
    of the same, despite the fact it is rather expensive. you are an inspiration young man enjoy your build, I think I can safely say that as everyone is younger than me. Regards, Gary.
    3 months ago by GaryLC
    Forum
    Transmitter Mode 2
    Hi JK, Mode 1, Mode 2? Pooh pooh! I have the German branded
    version
    of the i6, also a Spektrum D6 and a Graupner MC-10 40Meg set (for my subs๐Ÿ˜‰). I use a simple convention on all of them. Throttle and rudder are both on the right stick, channels 1 and 2 respectively. ALL aircraft special functions and mixers are switched OFF. Connect ESC and rudder servo to the corresponding outputs at the RX and away you go. Regardless of which Mode the TX thinks it is. This means that I can control the boat with one thumb. Leaving the other hand free for the special function pots and switches, or the Bierkrug๐Ÿ˜‹ I sail at the Ostpark Lake here in Munich, sitting at the edge of the Biergarten on the bank of the lake ๐Ÿ˜ See pic of my usual corner. My TX can be set to either Mode 1 or 2. I left in Mode 1. Mode 1 or mode 2 doesn't matter, unless some sets have the self centring stick built in on the left. Even these can be swapped over to the right. Or use the left thumb for navigating! Only minor irritation with this setup; on all the modern 2.4Gig sets designed for the fly boys, is that on switch-on the TX still demands that the throttle,which it 'thinks' is left stick, is pulled down or it won't boot โ˜น๏ธ Safety feature for aircraft motors! No chopped fingers๐Ÿ˜ฎ Haven't found a way to switch this off yet. It's embedded in the firmware.๐Ÿค” Cheers, Doug๐Ÿ˜Ž
    3 months ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    New forum rankings.
    Thanks Tertius, Carry on with your superb ships and I'm sure we'll be chatting in the Wardroom again soon enough. How's the MEKO sailing? Got the heli flying yet? ๐Ÿ˜‰ As you know, having worked on MEKOs I've got a 'soft spot' for them! Maybe one day I'll 'scratch' the successor to the SAN type, the Algerian Navy
    version
    MEKO-200-AN, for which I designed the COMMS system. Hard work but also good fun. During the project 'somehow' a set of outline and GA drawings 'fell' into my hands๐Ÿ˜‰ "Ohhhh, a life on the ocean wave ...." Cheers, Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž
    3 months ago by RNinMunich
    Response
    Re: Virgin Atlantic Challenger
    Hi there the plans were free issued in Model Boats July 1995 - they are a very simplified
    version
    of the real boat. They are very straightforward and easy to build from. Magazine Exchange has a copy of the magazine - but I don't think the plans are with it from their website. http://magazineexchange.co.uk/cw/model-boats-magazine-july-1995-issue.html but this gives you an idea what to look for - the Magazine - together with plans attached - do often come up on Ebay. To answer your question about the rudder; I just wanted to keep the rudder as per plan and sail the model as its fun to sail as it is - as you can see on the short video. By the way I do apologise for the video - the camera person was getting used to her new phone :-) John
    3 months ago by JOHN
    Forum
    Editing Models in Harbour
    I have tried to edit the photos of my boats in the Harbour and try as I may there seems to be something wrong. If you delete a photo, what you then get is a silhouette of a head but no photo. Used to be no problem on the previous
    version
    but seems to be an issue now. Alan
    3 months ago by ads90
    Forum
    New Website Sneak Peak
    Hi. i have previously used my ipad but the new site loads but will not allow me to use any of the features, not even log in with face book .is this because i could not use the app before as my ipad
    version
    was to early and now its to early for the web site too. Im am sending this from my phone. Rogal.
    3 months ago by Rogal118
    Blog
    Gina 2 Billing Boats Fish Cutter - Restoration & Con
    version
    As promised (or threatened?๐Ÿ˜) stage two of the hull work and thoughts on motorisation. The hull was sprayed with two coats of grey primer/filler. Pic1. As usual this showed up the remaining imperfections (pics 2 & 3), but I'm not going to worry about them until I've got prop shaft tube and rudder stock sorted out and permanently fitted ๐Ÿ˜‰ After my attempts to make and thread a 3mm prop shaft went awry Martin (Westway the Mechanicals Master๐Ÿ‘) stepped in and made me a decent one complete with a bushed stuffing tube ๐Ÿ‘ Vielen Dank Meister๐Ÿ˜Š I did however manage to make a 4mm to 3mm reducer so that I could fit a Rabeosch 35mm prop as seen in pics 2 & 3. The tube and shaft from Martin, arrived Saturday an' he only made it on Monday๐Ÿ˜Š, have been dry fitted so that I can start setting up the gears, necessary to bring the drive down to the prop shaft fitted very low down in the hull, and motor mount. Pic 4. Motorisation: (Remember folks - this kit was designed and built as a static model!) I want to use the old 1950s Taycol Target motor which my Dad originally fitted in the Sea Scout which I have renovated and upgraded to work forward and reverse with a standard ESC. See Build blog 'Sea Scout - Jessica' Many of you will know that the Taycol motors were field coil motors, meaning that they have no permanent magnet around the rotor coil, and thus reversing the battery connections to the brushes had no effect on the direction of rotation, as this simply reversed the magnetic fields of both stator and rotor coils๐Ÿค” To counteract this so that the motor could be used in both forward and reverse with a conventional brushed ESC I modified the motor slightly (separated the two coils) and built a simple converter board to connect it to the ESC. Again see the Sea Scout blog for the details of the con
    version
    . Basically; once the field coil and brush-gear (rotor coil) have been separated a simple diode bridge can be used to apply the output of the ESC to the motor. This enables the reversal of EITHER field OR rotor coil polarity, depending on how you connect the converter to the motor. Thus reversing the direction of rotation of the motor. Beneficial side effect is that the diodes also suppress the commutator sparking๐Ÿ˜Š In my case, with the Taycol Target, I also cleaned, flattened and polished the commutator. Thus significantly reducing the potential for spark generation in the first place! A peculiarity of the Taycol motors is that they all use metal brushes, pressed phosphor bronze strip, so they need oiling! DO NOT oil conventional brushed motors with carbon brushes unless the brushes are exchangeable or you want to have to buy a new motor!!!!! Pics 5 & 6 show the proposed position of the Taycol in Gina 2 and pic 7 the prototype converter board I knocked up to test the motor, together with a Graupner Navy V30R Marine Brushed ESC. Details and results in the Sea Scout blog, including video of the sparks and oscilloscope pics of the drive waveforms before and after con
    version
    ! The latter showing the spark suppression effect of the converter๐Ÿ˜Š Some samples attached - last 3 pics. Pic 8 pic shows a more compact
    version
    of the converter, one of a few types I'm doing for Martin's various Taycols as a trade for the prop shaft he made for me and some useful material he sent. Thanks mate๐Ÿ‘ Next steps will be 1) mounting the gears correctly on the shafts, requiring the manufacture of a 3/32" to 4mm adaptor and a 1/8" to 4mm adaptor, and keying them to the shafts - Hooray for mini milling machines ๐Ÿ˜‰ 2) manufacturing bushed end plates to hold the gears in place, 3) fitting the motor mounting platform. I'll probably borrow from my experiences of real shipbuilding and do this as a suspended 'false floor', i.e. mounted on stiff springs to enable adjustments to optimise the gearing mesh! On real naval ships this is done to improve shock resistance and to minimise engine noise / vibration conduction to the hull, thus significantly reducing the acoustic signature of the ship. Not that I'm tooo worried about being torpedoed ๐Ÿ˜ Worth a try๐Ÿ˜‰ Pic 9 shows the cleaned up and renovated Taycol Target motor. Pic 10 shows the drive waveform complete with sparks before modification.๐Ÿค” Pic 11 the cleaned 'forward' waveform with the converter board. Pic 12 the cleaned 'reverse' waveform, no suppression capacitors needed ๐Ÿ˜‰ More soon folks, Cheers, Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž PS Along the way a new keel was fitted as can be seen in pics 1 to 3. The original builder had 'buried' the keel in the hull planking! ๐Ÿ˜ฒ
    11 months ago by RNinMunich


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