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    Response
    Re: power fin
    There is a traditional
    version
    of the fin, Chinese if I remember correctly. It's called the Yuloh. It's a long sweep over the stern, balanced on a fulcrum but it also has a lanyard which is fastened between the oar and the boat and evidently this makes the oar move in the figure of eight movement just by pushing back and fore. I know that sounds a bit vague, but it's a difficult thing to describe. I am a great believer in sculling, so much easier to handle a boat in confined spaces. Unfortunately it's not often seen in amateur boating circles, but is mainly used by professional boatmen such as sailing barge crews. Nerys
    2 days ago by Nerys
    Blog
    HMT Resolve by Caldercraft
    Having already started the build, Martin555 suggested I do a build log. Never done one before so here goes. First impressions of the kit - very comprehensive and parts of good quality, as I would expect from the manufacturers, Jotika. However, I soon found that quite a few parts had been numbered incorrectly, so be careful! Two
    version
    s can be built, civilian and Royal Navy. Being a keen military modeller, there was no contest. My first decision was the power plant. Steam far too expensive and complicated, so I decided on electric. Recommended were 900 brushless motors which are very big lumps. Consultation with Jotika resulted in 540 2.5:1 geared motors which had the added advantage of lower shafts, making it easier to connect the prop shafts, which are parallel to the hull. 60mm 4 bladed props completed the drive train, which as you will see later from the sea trials proved very effective.
    2 months ago by cormorant
    Response
    Re: Futaba F-14 Con
    version
    Problem!
    Hi Doug, I didn't know there was a marine
    version
    ! But, the controller I was sent. Just came with the receiver! I had to purchase a separate servo! Anyway, I took out the 2.4 TX! Reverted back to 40mhz! Cheers, Ed
    9 days ago by figtree7nts
    Response
    Re: Supplies Arrived!
    Hi Ed, when I was at the Warwick boat show I was talking to the guys on the Howes Model supplies stand about the F14, and they assured me that if you purchase the marine
    version
    in 2.4ghz everything works and even the expansion modules, I will have to check with Futaba as I was going to order one for myself as a Christmas present. Thanks for the heads up. Cheers Colin.
    12 days ago by Colin H
    Forum
    LATEST SMOKER EXPERIMENTS, REDUCING SIZE & NEW BITS
    Picked up some bits today from the vape shop and managed to score a complete battery module (with good 1s LiPo) and a vape tank base (to screw the coil/element into and that into battery base) for free from their spare bits collection. I bought a 3 pack of coils to play with also. The battery module even has a rotary wattage selector which works (for more or less smoke or different wattage coils) even has a timeout control and LEDs which all work. I managed to get it apart after a bit of experimenting (found the ends were splined and pressed into the alloy tube body)- nothing a small screwdriver and hammer could't change😁 I modified the wiring to accept Deans type plugs for future use, as the unit was solid wired and no use in that form. As the smoke comes out the air inlet using my method (model x method), the whole coil and vent must be inside a sealed tube, air fed into the mouth piece (sticking out of the tank) and forced down the tank and out the exhaust outlet/s (the tank will be stuffed with cotton wool around the coil with a clearance left for the smoke to escape.) This
    version
    might have to be totally enclosed and air fed in through a tube, as there is no mouthpiece. I think I'll be able to get the size down to around 40x40 and work horizontally which is sort of what I'm aiming for. The timeout electrics on the unit aren't really necessary and the micro button for activation would require a servo arm to operate it (maybe holding right stick on-center off) but the timeout would be nice to incorporate in the system somehow for 'startup smoke', I wouldn't even need another battery as this one works real well and still putting out 4V (think the unit was replaced because the micro button press cover was broken,- nothing else wrong). It will be interesting to see how this
    version
    will work. After this will be further tests using pre-wound coils in similar containers. I can sense Martin getting excited already😂 Young guy running the vape shop was really interested in what we are doing with the coils, and was very helpful (also flies quads so he's in the R/C hobby area which helps) JB
    18 days ago by jbkiwi
    Forum
    LATEST SMOKER EXPERIMENTS, REDUCING SIZE & NEW BITS
    (This is an update to the original post.) This is the model Y smoker and is a lot smaller than The model X. I was just setting it up to take a vid when the voltage regulator spat the dummy ( think it blew a power reg) causing the full 12v from the batt to go straight through to the smoker control and causing bad smoke to leak from the 3.7V electrics. Up to that point it had been working perfectly, with the air pump (ex HSL large water/air pump) being varied to reduce or increase smoke. The battery V was set to 3.5V using one regulator (fizzer) and the pump on another battery and regulator for the test. I was also using the vape module regulator as a safety for the coil (which in the event did work) The main regulators I'm using are supposed to handle 5A (probably Chinese Amps - like their shoe sizes😁) but I think I'll have to go up more in amps for the next one I buy. I've had no trouble with these on pumps etc but they obviously don't like more than 2-3A. I've removed the vape electrics and its now wired straight to the back plate and center pin, working well again using another regulator (might buy them by the gross). There are 2 exhausts and a filler pipe on top, and the air inlet in the end of this
    version
    , and the pics show the components in order. A small piece of 6mm f/glass heat tube sits in the end of the element and mates with the brass air tube so the air is directed into the element. Pic of it running is at 2.5V and th 12V pump running on about 4V. Feet are just more pipe material, heated, bent and glued on with pipe solvent. The cotton wool wick is packed around the element and blocks any stray air from the pump escaping past the element to the exhaust. All the main UPVC tube sections are a push fit and are not glued so as to make servicing easy. It doesn't seem to leak (yet) as the end caps are a good tight fit. A small foil tray might be needed inside the model to catch any spills etc. A cap will be made for the filler as some smoke escapes from it as it is. Pipes are std 31mm UPVC plumbing but you can use any size you desire and if necessary this can be stood up and the air pipe run through the side (like the exhausts)rather than the end. Wherever the brass 5mm pipes are fitted, I've used some extra pipe material to double the thickness and thin cyano'd the pipes in, (making them a tight press fit when drilling). And she's now racing metallic blue as well. Hope to do the vid tomorrow, Happy smaping. JB
    15 days ago by jbkiwi
    Forum
    Night Watch
    Porridge, I agree that it is an essential part of life, as for cooking methods I'm willing to try them all. Back in the 60's I was going out with a girl from Burrow Head on the West Coast of Scotland. I stayed with her family a couple of times and her dad used to do a 20 gallon couldron full every Sunday, we all had a bowl with a spoon of honey, the rest was poured into trays lined with grease proof paper and stacked in the larder. Then each morning it was sliced and we had it grilled with butter or fried with streaky bacon and egg and mushrooms, with a great splodge of brown sauce. I wasn't keen on the grilled
    version
    but the fried was lovely. I suppose its a bit like marmite you either love it or hate it. Cheers Colin.
    16 days ago by Colin H
    Response
    Re: Build now finished
    Hmm! When you click the box it should open a window giving you the choice of Download or Open. The Open option should also suggest a suitable viewing APP found on your PC. If it suggests TWAIN of some
    version
    use that. Worked for me. Otherwise Download it, find it in your Downloads directory and click 'Open With', You should then get a window with a list of possible viewing Apps, e.g. Windows Media Player or Films and TV. Either should work. Bon chance mon ami🤞 😎
    17 days ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    LATEST SMOKER, E-CIG ELEMENT
    I've used an E-cig element in this
    version
    so as to be able to change elements easily. Element is on a bracket screwed to the base of the alloy tank (which acts as the fluid tank and neg connection) The pos wire goes from the back contact on the element through silicone tube out the back of the tank. I've given the tank a 7mm haircut on the mill to remove a bit of weight and unnecessary size (now 50x50x26 but could be 1/2 the width) Have to make a filler plug and dipstick for the oil yet The tank is filled with cotton wool (soaked in smoke oil) packed around the element which is run on 2v for this test (can go up to 4.5v) and using the old Heng Long piston pump to pulse the smoke. Waiting for a couple of air pumps to arrive and will re do the water with this
    version
    . Graham has done a similar thing but used the whole E-cig unit (modified) which is progressing well, this
    version
    uses the element only. I have also ordered a complete E-cig tank as well to try, as the idea is to get these smoke/water units as compact as possible so people can copy them to fit in smaller boats.
    1 month ago by jbkiwi
    Response
    Re: Anchor Winch
    Re- This is now the the mark six
    version
    Very ingenious! JB
    25 days ago by jbkiwi
    Forum
    LATEST SMOKER, E-CIG ELEMENT
    Hi Mike, A Thermistor is a resistor whose resistance varies with it's temperature. PTC means Positive Temperature Coefficient. Which means that the resistance increase with temperature. Thermistor heaters come in various forms from tiny to huge and are used instead of nichrome wire for all sorts of heating jobs such as hair driers, bathroom fan heaters and in cars. They have the advantage that they can be designed for specific temperature ranges and when they reach their maximum design temp they stay there as long as the volts are applied😊 Possible disadvantages for our purposes are the initial heat-up time and operating current. Current is typically high while heating up but falls dramatically when at operating temperature when the resistance is at maximum. I=V/R 😉. We'll see. After reading that article I started trolling my usual suppliers for suitable
    version
    s. No luck yet, either too small or way too big ☹️ Anyway, I'm concentrating more on the alchemy side at the moment. I have several commercial mini smokers, e.g. for HO/OO scale locos etc., to experiment with. So I'm attacking the problem of the elusive 'Black Smoke'. As soon as I find some suitable thermistors heaters I'll be off and running🤞 Cheers, Doug 😎
    25 days ago by RNinMunich
    Blog
    Anchor Winch
    This is now the the mark six
    version
    (previous
    version
    s scrapped) after various attempts I found the use of magnets for the clutch the most reliable. The drum with the chain has a metal disc made from top of soup tin as this was thin and light, superglued to drum with a small brass nail in to give extra security. A brass rod going through the chain drum also protrudes through into the drive drum for a short distance top keep things in alignment. A brass ring is also soldered to the brass rod to keep chain drum in firm position, the drive drum is also recessed for this ring enabling magnets to close up to metal ring. The servo is used to disengage the magnet allowing the anchor to free fall in lower position servo neutral position brings magnet back to chain drum holding anchor taut then when the servo is push forward it only slides on linkage and the motor turns to raise the anchor. The motor is a small geared motor of about 100 rpm and has a esc fitted for better control when inching home the anchor. Both magnet and servo I operate from tx stick. Care has to be taken to get the adjustment on the linkage correct and the chain drum must spin very freely. I also had to change the servo to a 3kg servo to beat the magnet pull and fit ball joints on linkage for better adjustment. My anchor was 4grams and that seemed the lightest the drum would move freely with. However the motor can lift 40 grams as that what I tested the lift at. Also did 100 non stop free fall drops and lifts to check reliability and everything was firm after my test.
    26 days ago by Elsrickle
    Forum
    LATEST SMOKER, E-CIG ELEMENT
    Appreciate the comment Elsrickle, I'm still having fun with new ideas as the possibilities are endless and open to your imagination. I'm sure you'll have fun experimenting (it's actually quite addictive). I think if anyone is thinking of building a smoke unit for a new boat, the idea might be to get one going well, then design in a place to mount it with easy access for filling/replacing element etc. Not the sort of thing to be completely built in. I like the ready made coils shown as they are tidy and easy to replace. Weight wise for eg, - the vertical vape tank
    version
    , (model X) weighs 100g (1/2 the weight of a 540 motor) and the alloy box coil only
    version
    was the same weight. The model X is 45mm Diam x 55mm H, so not that large considering, (40mm waste pipe with stop ends) and keeps it all tidy. A complete tank could be used just as a screw fitting (threads are very fine and hard to produce) without the glass and placed in a smaller tube and packed with cotton wool (to be soaked in smoke liquid) and air pushed through the element. So many
    version
    s are possible. JB
    27 days ago by jbkiwi
    Forum
    LATEST SMOKER, E-CIG ELEMENT
    That one turned out quite well Martin. I was on the lookout for some sort of can to put the tank in and was prowling round our local Bunnings home depot/hardware store and was in the plumbing section when I suddenly had an epiphany. Remembered I had 40mm waste pipe at home so I bought 2 end caps and a bit of sanding drilling and fitting later, voila'
    version
    X. not that small but plenty small enough to go in most boats and very easy to make. There is a turn of loose wire inside so I can lift the tank up to fill it. Strange that it would not work as planned with a bottom air feed, and had to work in reverse. Not to worry, it makes houseloads of smoke, is self contained and easy to fill, (end caps are just a push fit and the top holds the tank in place by the mouth piece) which is pretty much what I was after. I know we can use the vape coils now and I'm sure I can make a small
    version
    with just a coil (same idea as the alloy one, - just need to make or find a smaller can) not too worried at the moment as I think I have enough smoke devices for now. Be interesting now Myself and Graham have kicked it off, to see what the rest of the crew come up with (I think there are a few under way at the moment). I'm sure no one is going to pay silly prices for the commercial smokers now! (which are pretty much what we have done but in a colorful tin) when you can do it yourself. Seen a few vids on You Tube of people making their own by winding coils on f/glass rope (stove door seals). They work ok but more effort to make. Ready made coils are so cheap (wound coils and replacement screw ins) that it's not worth mucking around. You can buy boxes of various wound coils very cheaply if you make something to use those in. Endless fun. Thank-you E-Cigs!😊 JB
    28 days ago by jbkiwi
    Forum
    LATEST SMOKER, E-CIG ELEMENT
    No Jb the white tube
    version
    . Martin555.
    28 days ago by Martin555
    Forum
    LATEST SMOKER, E-CIG ELEMENT
    Here are the various smoker
    version
    s I've made and the vape coils and tank I have used. Also the Heng Long smoker in standard form and the modified forms - box with fan, fan on tank and one converted to a pulsing air pump (red side outlet) All items were bought from Ali Express, but can be found on EBay etc. I have used the Vaporesso brand tank and coil which seem well made. The 'VECO' tank I bought comes in a proper box with authentication laser sticker and a spare tank glass, spare element and spare o-ring set, very nice! You will need to make an adapter if you use these, as they are made to be part of a complete device which houses the battery (which you don't need) The coil or tank have the body as one contact and an insulated inner (with coil) which is the other contact (see pics mine and Grahams to see methods used. I've shown here the independant coil attachment and the tank attachment methods I used in my applications. There are dozens of vape manufacturers and device types so it's up to you to work out how you will do it, $$ etc. I know these
    version
    s work well as long as you can get good controllable air flow and and control / set the voltage (regulators cheap on Ali Express in various forms). Happy smoking!😊or😉 JB, R&D at the Smoketory😉
    28 days ago by jbkiwi
    Forum
    TRIAL FITTING SMOKE UNIT TO THE HSL
    Smoker fitted with new brass tube exhausts, plumbed up and working. Now waiting for a decent day to try it out on the water. Thinking of swapping the sound units for the new compact all in one
    version
    s which are a bit lighter, and will take up less room. Present ones are car sound and light
    version
    s with a separate control box and speaker taking up a lot of space. I want to get the exhausts up a bit, as at present they are right on the waterline (boat is a bit heavy and floats above the scale line). New smaller 6v water pump works fine. JB
    1 month ago by jbkiwi
    Response
    Re: MORE SMOKER STUFF 2
    RE its a great deal of experimentation you are doing JB Looks complex Red but it's probably that it's all spread out and messy. Not that expensive really as the smoke unit in the vid (modified Heng Long with fan) cost around $10, the voltage reg about $4, water pump around $4 a length of silicone pipe and a bunch of JST leads,- around $4 and the 2 air pumps around $6. The metal box for the Vape coil
    version
    was $10 and the guy in the vape shop gave me the coil FOC, so all in all, not a huge amount. I don't smoke or drink so I'm happy to spend a few $$ to try an idea which might be of use to others. Graham has sorted the electronic
    version
    which is excellent, and I'm trying to sort a cheap more 'mechanical' system for those who are high tech electronically challenged like myself😮 Re force air methods,- I did think about the small CO2 cartridges (soda syphon) through a valve but they might be a bit dangerous. Also thought of aircraft retract pump up cylinders but they cost lots. Really just have to find a good small high pressure pump with a good output (either that or make something) Also thought about compressed air in a can (for electronics cleaning etc) but that's $20 a can! and you still have to figure out how to connect it (plus the room factor. If you have plenty of room in a boat to fit a bit of gear it's no problem, but with say, twin engined models in the 3ft range with a few extras, space gets a bit scarce (see pics of my attempt at trial fitting this
    version
    in the HSL,)- major rewiring and re routing plumbing etc (looks like a bit of room by the smoker but the batteries go either side) JB
    1 month ago by jbkiwi
    Response
    Re: Vietnam River Gun Boat (Pibber)
    Interested in your build of the Pibber River Gunboat. I have the Pro Boat
    version
    which performs well. Would like a bit bigger hull as there is not much room for normal size batteries. Which hull did you use? Also interested in the Patrol Craft Fast ( Swift boat)of the Vietnam era
    1 month ago by TP87
    Response
    Re: Another Exhaust Smoker V2
    Hi Doug, Yes, probably too much smoke at present, but I can always turn it down once I’ve tried it on the lake. I think it probably needs to be a bit OTT to make it obvious on the lake. In discussion with JB, he suggested that the smoke should only be on when the throttle is idle as you won’t be able to see it when the boat is motoring fast. So last night I wrote some code for a PIC microchip to switch the smoker on/off based on throttle setting. I could just have used another channel on the R/C to switch it on/off, but I’m short on channels and this way is more interesting. The functionality is initially with the throttle at idle, the smoker will be off. A quick jab forward on the throttle and back to idle will turn the smoker on. It will then remain on until the throttle is held forward for a couple of seconds, i.e. the boat is underway, when the smoker will turn off. It will then remain off whatever the throttle setting, until another quick jab forward from idle. I still need to test and debug the code. I have been using PIC microchips for all sorts of projects for many years and use a whole range of different types depending on the application. They are all programmed with a PicKit2 which plugs in to the USB port on my laptop. I think the current
    version
    is PicKit3. I write software in assembler code and compile it with the free software available from Microchip. I have found that for model boat applications the requirements are generally very simple, and very few I/O pins are needed. I have been using PIC10f220 chips for these as I have a stock available left over from a product I used to manufacture and sell online. These have 4 I/O pins and work well for RCswitches, pulse stretchers, and the functionality described above. There are more powerful chips available for mor complex applications. Regards Graham93
    1 month ago by Graham93
    Forum
    LATEST SMOKER, E-CIG ELEMENT
    I'll have to wait and see how it's made Martin, I know it's a top fill
    version
    but I'm not familiar with its construction. From what I have gathered, these things are not used flat, more inlet pointing down to prevent possible leaks?. Really have no idea about this vaping as I gave up polluting my lungs about 20yrs ago when my arms started going numb😂😮☹️ Thought that was the tank (Kangertech) you were using in the pic you posted or was that just an example? JB
    1 month ago by jbkiwi
    Media
    Smoker test 8 E-Cig
    version
    This
    version
    of a smoker box uses an E-Cig element in an alloy electronics enclosure.I gave the lid and box a 7mm haircut on the mill to reduce the size, (now 50x50x26, - was 50x50x33) but it could still be 1/2 the width. haven't found a smaller alloy box yet but might come across one, (only really needs to be 35mmx35mmx25mm The element is mounted on a bracket screwed to the bottom of the box (the box being the resevoir and neg) and against the outlet tube, and the pos wire runs through the side (in silicone tube) to the element. The box is packed with cotton wool which is surrounding the element and soaked in smoke fluid (in this case baby oil) but leaving a passage through the center for air flow. I'm waiting for a couple of air pumps to arrive but I've used the old smoker unit pump again to demo the smoke and pulsing, (makes good smoke rings too)😊 The element is capable of taking 4.5v, but I'm only using 2v for the test and it smokes quite well. The pump is running on 7v but can be varied from around 3v - 8v. The large tubes are to allow for later exhaust fitting (water or dry stack). Once I get the air pumps I'll be running this one with the water again. I've done this (like Grahams
    version
    to be able to easily replace the element as the Heng Long smokers, while working ok (but noisy) have non replaceable elements, so if you kill one, it's off to file 13 at the end of the bench😉😁 The pump actually works quite well and if you mount it on sponge rubber it is reasonably quiet and could still be useful in a boat with a bit of interior room.
    1 month ago by jbkiwi
    Forum
    Night Watch
    Doesn't really matter, don't lets split hairs over a few odd words, you have your freedom again and that's what matters. We can now get things back to our
    version
    of normal and the BC patrol will go looking for sensible folk escaping the excesses of idiotic politicians and any other worthy cause we can think of. G'night , Lt.Nerys
    2 months ago by Nerys
    Response
    Re: Fire Monitors Part 3
    I think all of the solutions look good but the best does look to be the geared
    version
    . Really like the prototype setups.
    2 months ago by MouldBuilder
    Response
    Re: 34'' Vosper RAF Crash Rescue Tender - Aerokits model
    Agreed Sub. There were actually ten
    version
    s of the Fire Float (seemingly often erroneously called a 'Crash Tender') ranging from 37.5' to 60'. http://www.rafboats.co.uk/ff46vmk2.html Most popular
    version
    (don't know why!) seems to be the 46'
    version
    of which only two examples were ever built and which never saw the exciting and heroic service of their predecessors. Each to his own I suppose! 😎
    2 months ago by RNinMunich
    Response
    Re: EXHAUST SMOKE AND WATER TEST 3.
    Re - How about a flap valve in the water line Hi Peter, been thinking of ways to do this, but the exhaust is only 5mm, so getting an external flap (rubber on the full size) to be that small and flexible is a problem. I have some polyester covering fabric which I could use to make the discs, then silicone coat the disc and leave a silicone 'hinge' on a tab or do it a different way by using an air pump to disrupt the flow. On full sized boats, unless they have a 'water lock'muffler, the cooling water is usually a continuous flow (unlike the water lock which has a low inlet, a split chamber and higher outlet- thereby giving the spurting effect at idle as the water fills and discharges from the chamber) This system requires a reasonable exhaust pressure to work, so unless I could find a decent powerful small air pump to mimic that I'm stuck with low pressure (almost zero) smoke and reasonable water pressure. We almost have it sorted though, so with people chucking ideas at it, we might come up with a 'world first' for model boats, (somebody will say it's already been done, then they can tell us how, to save all this work!😁) I'm already onto the MK IV
    version
    and will see if that makes an improvement. As I've said to people many times, unfortunately, with model boats, about the only thing you can't scale, is H2O. Thoughts and ideas welcome! JB
    2 months ago by jbkiwi
    Blog
    Fire Monitors Part 1
    The white metal items supplied are OK but really don‘t lend themselves to being working items. Graham93 has already completed a
    version
    which looks just like the drawing and photos available, and are the best I’ve seen. The bar has been set so here goes, whenever an item like this is been contemplated it’s always good to spend some time in planning a sequence of operations and assessing the problem area’s at the start of the work and if possible dealing with these parts first. Failure of the difficult process doesn’t mean you have wasted work on other parts that are now scrap. I think the most difficult and problematic piece is the pipework that sits at the top and curves round in two halves, this in reality is a casting, however replicating it can be done using brass pipe. Brass pipe can be purchased in annealed form; however my stock wasn’t so the first job was to anneal the tube. Heating to a dull red heat and allowed to cool, this treatment will soften the metal completely. In some books it is suggested that the brass should be quenched in water (which is what I do) after heating but this is to speed up the commercial process, and quenching has no effect on the annealing process. So tube annealed we need some method of retaining its tubular form during bending, in plumbing I use a spring but when you compare wall thickness/dia a spring would have to be mighty strong and so small. An easy alternative is to crimp one end of the tube and put some soldering flux down the tube, follow this by heating with a low temperature blow torch to melt solder and fill the tube, then allow to cool. You now have a soft tube which when bent will hold its shape. That’s the next challenge, the shape, and being able to replicate it twice, so an easy jig is required. Having marked out a scrap piece of hardwood I cut the “U” shape using the band saw and filled a groove along the top edge, this was then placed under my drill press with the appropriate dia bar (this must be calculated accurately as it helps to create the final form) on top of the tube, then just pull gently down (it takes very little force) this jig leave a small amount to finish bend to a complete a circle, the excess length is trimmed off and then I used a piece of hard wood with a small radius on the end to tap the final curve. Next the circle needs to be cut into two pieces I used a small slitting saw in the milling machine. Now it’s time to remove the solder, simply heat up holding in plyers and then shake vigorously to expel the solder. (Make sure you do this on your own and wear safety glasses.) The white metal “main pillar fitting” and the monitors final “exit pipe” will be used in the unit and all that is required is to mount them in the lathe and drill a 4mm hole through each and clean up the casting. Next I cut 4 pieces of 4mm brass pipe; these will form the main water passage. Two more machine turned items are the “pivot post top” that feeds water through the 2 brass pipes into the “junction block” which then feeds into the exit pipe, sounds all very simple? Having made all the components, it’s time to think about fastening them all together. First items to be joined are the “upstand pipe” to the “pivot post top” X 2 also the “feed to exit pipe” and the “junction block” X 2, these four joints are all to be silver soldered. I mounted them in a piece of wood and placed a tight spring brass ring around the upright pipe to stop then sliding down when heated. Having the joints spotlessly clean is paramount, the flux is added, I insert very small pieces of silver solder into the holes at the top cross holes (less is more) a gentle heat, and watch as the flux goes “glassy”, this is closely followed by the solder melting, watching at the lowest point of the joint for the tell-tale shinny liquid metal. No fettling is required so the 4 parts are dipped for 45 minutes in masonry brick cleaner (dilute hydrochloric acid) the parts are now clean and ready for the next soldering activity. See part 2
    2 months ago by mturpin013
    Forum
    Not so cheap glue!
    Dad and I used both Aerolite and Cascamite on our dinghys (not both at the same time) - years later thought to give Cascamite a bash on an enlarged
    version
    of the Grey Goose SGB hull (6')- turned out to be big mistake - old Stuart Sun type steam engine with large original boiler not very responsive so rammed into the bank going fairly fast - joints in the stem shattered on impact - glue had turned brittle. Had to re glue and use fibreglass & poly resin covering as a lot of planking sprung too. Shame as it looked great in its varnished state. Locally Balcotan (polyurethane?) is used for boat building - but a friend advised it has the same problem as Cascamite as it also shatters on impact . Not tried it myself as its smelly and messy and difficult to clean up.
    2 months ago by redpmg
    Response
    Re: SEAPLANE TENDER STAND ADDITION
    Re - Are the shafts ball bearing at both ends? and can’t you get sealed bearings Hi Mike, they have dual bearings which are MF 74 flanged bearings - 4x7-(8.2)x2.5 - steel double shielded, so are quite small, and are a tight fit in the brass tube so I don't want to disturb them until I need to. I've ordered some Zokol branded bearings from Ali Express as future replacements' so I'll see what they are like when they come. I might order some MBA stainless bearings if they have them as well, as I know you can trust them to be good quality. Have found some Chinese bearings to be very soft and give out early, even though regularly lubed (planes) as against the better FAG, SKF, Koyo, Timken MBA etc which I've replaced them with which last for years, (haven't replaced a replacement yet in 10+ years) Not sure if you can get these particular mini bearings in a sealed
    version
    , (I haven't seen one in the mini bearings range) I've added the pic for others to view regarding lubrication, which may be of interest . (see also comment above to Martin. JB
    2 months ago by jbkiwi
    Forum
    Admiral's
    That's a good one JB - must have been a very interesting trip - only similar one I can recall was the US sailors who bought a Landing Craft - not sure which
    version
    maybe a LCT - and sailed it all the way back to the USA from the Med somewhere shortly after WW2. Not one of them was a deck officer....... All I know is the modern sailors could not cope without their gadgets - forgetting that in the vastness of the sea things can break and electronics stop working - and they would not even carry a sextant or know how to use it Slocum used an old alarm clock and the stars to navigate by, my Dads pal Harry Pidgeon used a sextant but still managed to run aground about 120 miles up the west coast from Capetown while asleep - had to be towed +-300yards back to the sea by a team of oxen - no leaks so Islander must have had a tough hull.........
    2 months ago by redpmg
    Forum
    Bismark
    I have a couple of P94 ESC Doug, which I thought were the only one's available, what is the difference with the lite
    version
    ?😊 Cheers, Peter
    2 months ago by Rookysailor
    Response
    Re: (Naval Ship) PT 109
    He's got a petrol motor Doug, no problem doing that. Just cracked the electric
    version
    , see vid,- basic prototype but it works! JB
    2 months ago by jbkiwi
    Response
    Re: Carla (Neptune)
    Hi Boatshed, Maybe worth having a chat with the Fleet Admiral (Doug) He might know if you could get an English
    version
    . Or possibly know how you can translate them in to English. Martin555.
    2 months ago by Martin555
    Response
    Re: 40'' Seaplane Tender, new build. mods and improvements.
    Ahah a Vampire no less - have about 6 or 7 hours flight time in a DH Vampire T11 courtesy RRAF . First jolly as a raw recruit - was told by pilot - I'm the Captain and will leave the ship last - but if I say "Eject" and you say "What" you will be talking to yourself........... Love them Went up to 49,000ft - wallowing well - then vertical dive . Reading the dymo tape on the dash "Thou shalt not exceed 550 knots" as the ASI crept up to 600 with the canopy shaking like a leaf ....... Pulling out at 20,000 but only leveling out at about 10,000 but was too busy staring at the floor unable to move - don't know how many G - but sure it was in excess of limits....... Could not wait to go up again........... Have a plan for a ducted fan Vampire - but gave up flying years ago when distracted for a second by a stupid question - the newly built Bipe tried to demolish the wall of the ablution block (the only building on the field). Eyesight also deteriorated afterwards and now after a double cataract op see better than in my youth - but responses are no longer up to scratch........ As to Lipos - have a couple of hard celled ones like giant AA batteries , one soft cell 7.4v and two small Lifes 6.6V? Not used any one of them yet - electrics & myself do not get on - years ago trying to put courtesy lights in my Cortina Mk1 GT was called for lunch - and then promptly asked if the car should be smoking like that ...... The Cressida was very popular here , the one you have is a great
    version
    . Invited especially to the local launch of the Cressida as the company I worked for had a fleet of 600 odd vehicles........ and I was responsible for the transport division........
    3 months ago by redpmg
    Forum
    Plans for Billings African Queen
    Hi Doug, Whilst I wait for a suitable steam plant to be sourced I have restored the African Queen to it's original Billings electric
    version
    using the plans you kindly posted on here. I am awaiting a Union Flag, two figures (Charlie Allnut and Rose Sayer) plus making the oxygen and hydrogen bottles. A little light weathering and she is ready for her maiden voyage. Mike
    3 months ago by ModelHover
    Forum
    My Shed Find.
    Well it's a typical fast attack craft, motor gunboat thingee as they used to be called isn't it. Not my cup of tea, but a lot of people love them, proved by the recent thread and umpteen posts for the new Eezebilt
    version
    .
    3 months ago by Nerys
    Response
    Re: Futaba F14 Dual Thottle Installed!
    Hi Doug, I didn't know there was a different
    version
    ! Or that it came with the batteries. Next time I'll ask questions????? The reciever I have is the Futaba R3008SB. T-FHSS AIR S.BUS 2 8 Channel with High Voltage System! With Dual Antenna's Only thing is I'll have to wait. Till I have the batteries to test the unit! PS. The instructions you have provided. Are the same ones I had downloaded. From futaba wedsite! Thanks, Though appriciate it! Cheers, Ed
    3 months ago by figtree7nts
    Response
    Re: Futaba F14 Dual Thottle Installed!
    Hi Ed, Shame you didn't order the Navy
    version
    in the first place🤔 Comes with the Twin Stick already fitted. Such a set also comes with a TX battery and an appropriate receiver. Which receiver do you have? Attached is the manual for the Navy
    version
    . Maybe it's better than what you got, dunno! Seems pretty well written and clear to me😉 Anyway, have fun 👍 I remember when the F14 Navy first came out, many years ago, I could only dream about one back then🤔 Cheers, Doug 😎
    3 months ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    What have I got?
    Very pleased we have all been able to help. Let's see your boat on the water before long. You could always build a lighter from the Eezebilt plan for your motorised
    version
    to tow. That was quite a normal thing to see when there was a lot of barge traffic on the Thames.
    3 months ago by Nerys
    Response
    Re: Thames Barge.
    "I'd gladly send you some .." Thanks for the offer Nerys, but I guess you're right. 5 to 10 days underway would be a bit dodgy. ☹️ Probably contrary to some PO or EU rule anyway🤔 I can get a reasonable range of English comestibles here in Munich. Lidl for one has frequent 'country' weeks, including English. Packs of frozen Chish & Fips etc. HP and Lee & Perrins sauces and Chivers jams / marmalade are quite common in supermarkets. As are Huntley & Palmer and Crawfords biscuits and shortbread. There are (or were?) two "English Shops" who get regular deliveries of English bacon and sausages an stuff, although the German & Danish
    version
    s here aren't bad. Beef sausages are very rare tho . Go there for me mince pies and Christmas Puds 😋 Must check if the shops are still there, if so wonder what will happen to them after BREXIT! The Dijon "things" were probably full of mustard 😮😝 Have fun on Sunday 👍⛵ Cheers, Doug 😎
    3 months ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Cheap (steampunk?) homemade ESC
    This contraption is a speed controller I made from a Dick Smith voltage regulator kit (almost before you could buy any modern ESCs). Servo turns the pot and micro switch turns power off in neutral (stopped) Reverse was a toggle switch operated by a servo (as described previously in the 'cheap reversing switch' post. The other pic is of ready made
    version
    I just bought (Ali Express) which is more powerful, and can also be used as a speed controller/voltage reg for anything. Could be operated by a servo on its side with a flexible coupling. $3.55 NZD cheap as! JB
    3 months ago by jbkiwi
    Forum
    Work with Balsa wood
    I haven't tried it, but even I, who am not very mechanically minded think it must be possible to devise a simple miniature steam bending device. I remember seeing in a boatbuilding yard a very long time ago, a boiler fired by the sweeping's of shavings and chippings from all round the yard (Apprentice's job) the steam going up into a long square 'pipe' into which the boat builders put the planks or whatever they were steaming. The heat of the steam was intense enough that after half hour or so, the wood was cooked enough to bend around whatever. A miniature electric or calor gas
    version
    of this must be easily designed and built. No doubt someone will tell me that this has been done and is sold by X.
    3 months ago by Nerys
    Forum
    Missing plans and construction booklet
    Nearly 25 years ago I was bought the kit for the KD Perkasa MTB and the plans for the Vosper Fire Tender (34"
    version
    ). Having a young family at the time construction didn't very far until now. Having more time on my hands I am returning to where I left off but have found both sets of plans are missing and the construction booklet for the Perkasa. Can anyone help advise where I might get the missing items? In anticipation...
    4 months ago by stevecw
    Forum
    Night Watch
    Sub Lt. Dodgy! Wavy Navy or not you're in For The Duration!! Re: See 'Sink the Bismark', So you were on Prince of Wales? My 1/350
    version
    will have servo driven turrets with silicone greased bearings😉 Carry on Sub 👍
    4 months ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Work with Balsa wood
    I think, therefore I'm spam... (or do I just think I am? 🙄😎) The
    version
    of that one which I like the best came in an old 'My Word' radio show - the bit where contestants were required to produce funny stories to explain the origin of well-known sayings. Frank Muir had his Descartes looking after the cakes for his wife's carefully-planned New Years party, and passing a written message to someone who was eating them too early... "I think they're for 1 a.m...... ?"
    4 months ago by DodgyGeezer
    Forum
    Wiring help needed.
    Evening Commander (😉) First the 6V loads- What you need is a 6V voltage regulator tacked on to the 12V supply. Simplest way is a 3 pin IC regulator (looks like a power transistor😉) from the L78xx series. The xx stands for the output voltage, so here L or LM or MC 7806. Thing to watch for when buying is their current capability, most are only 1Amp. There are some around for 1.5A or even 3A. Check your usual component supplier, or Google around (don't let Caroline catch you 😉) Attached is a datasheet for a 1.5A
    version
    . Fig. 3. shows how to wire it into yout 12V supply. Don't worry about the capacitors. They are intended for mains derived supplies to suppress voltage transients on the input, which you won't get from a battery. The cap on the output is to suppress transients from the load when you switch it on. Not worth worrying about if the thruster motor is small. But if you happen to have a 0.1uF (100nF or 104 code often printed on the ceramic) ceramic plate cap kicking about ... NOT an electrolytic can type!💥 https://www.google.com/search?q=0.1uf+capacitor&client=firefox-b-d&tbm=isch&source=iu&ictx=1&fir=aT8JdfspcXDrEM%253A%252CkimvVilj_2DqfM%252C_&vet=1&usg=AI4_-kQAb-VMPkepdmZJ-2Vd36rwOQKpWA&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwiKpbOmxqbkAhVIYVAKHTOBC80Q9QEwDHoECAcQHA#imgrc=aT8JdfspcXDrEM: Bow thruster- Just use a small ESC same as for propulsion.😊 What current does the thruster motor draw? Radar motor won't drink a lot I would think. Mine (converted servo) runs on a D size 1.5V dry cell for months! I don't bother with an RC switch for radar, just switch on (by inserting the battery!😊) at launching. Cheap n cheerful but woiks! BTW; if you want to turn on the proverbial sixpence (that's dime for our colonial brothers😁) fit a stern thruster as well, wire it's motor back to front and feed it from the same ESC via a Y cable. Don't disappear down your own funnel though 😮😮 Another way is a so called Universal BEC. This supplies power to the RX and connected loads. Some can cope with up to 5A. Google UBEC. Minor snag is that all the ones I've seen so far are 5V! Might be enough ? If you go this way disconnect ALL red power leads in the cables from ESCs to RX IF they have BECs, or they'll fight each other! Cheers, Doug 😎 BTW How's your Commander Commander? I seem to be missing some refit progress reports 😠 (Drums fingers on desk while pouring a tot of calming Pusser's Rum!) OK Grauer Burgunder actually😊 PS Welcome back DG👍
    4 months ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    The FLIP SHIP
    Hi Doug, If I was to make the flip ship I would have to do some serious modifications to Big Blue first to increase the depth LOL. I like the idea of the Duck lift, maybe a bigger
    version
    for Swans. Martin555.
    4 months ago by Martin555
    Blog
    40'' Seaplane Tender, new build Z-1
    Didn't quite make it by Z but what the hell. Thought I'd throw a small bit of progress in as there seems to be a bit of a building lull lately. Made the rear wheelhouse partition and 'louvre' door, and 4 cleats, which I think look too small (ran out larger of brass rod) but are made with the vertical stem going through the washer as a pin, and are not yet glued in. Finished the rear cockpit trimming and internal water diverting coamings, and done one side of the boot topping to try and tidy up the waterline, (the masking tape all seems to be crap and bleeds - unless you want to spend $18 for 'professional' stuff which is probably just as bad!) Hard to find thin trimming tape these days as well, so have to cut your own to go round tight curves. Used to use thin dope to seal the edges years ago (on coloured doped aircraft) but will melt the acrylic and leave a raised edge, which I won't be painting up to. You have to do a number of really light coats if you want to stop it bleeding, and run a blunt tool along the edge really firmly beforehand (still not good enough really). Could have used pin-striping tape but that leaves a raised stripe (scale waterline would be about 1"thick) also $15 a roll with 90% left over (bit of a waste). I also roughly superimposed the model on the original photo to see how it compared. The original is a late model MK 1 narrow hull, but I went with the Mk 2 41'6"
    version
    with the longer wider hull (to have more internal room to play with) but with the coamings, masts etc of the original. The MK 2 has a more pronounced 'Clipper' bow with more flare and is wider 'midships' but the wheelhouse is pretty similar. There ain't no one to worry about the accuracy these days as there are few good photos of the original (pretty well just mine and a friends fuzzy super 8 captures) so it's just a rough crack at it (also using a bit of the old 'poetic license'). Will email a pic to the current owner when I've finished and see what he thinks. Just have dash and wheel to do now (I think - bound to have missed something) Oh, that's right, - the rear cockpit canvas and dinghy! (I knew that😁)
    4 months ago by jbkiwi
    Forum
    Veron Huntsman 28 riding the white horses!
    Yours is the blue & yellow
    version
    if I remember correctly Paul. ("as I recall Paul" sounded odd, so I changed it 😁) Must dig out your mail about the tweaks again. Seem to recall there was a YouTube link in it. Bought the Orange stabiliser you mentioned, but it don't woik wiv my DX6 😭 Must look again for the Lemon
    version
    (and hope that it isn't one😮) Wonder if there's a Pineapple flavoured
    version
    ?😋 Finding enough grass in Munich with no human obstacles on it is the snag! Thinks! Might be a disused Luftwaffe field just south of Munich I could try. I'll give you your thread back now 😁 Cheers, Doug 😎
    4 months ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Veron Huntsman 28 riding the white horses!
    Yep! The Dynam
    version
    , Paul (pmdevlin) got me hooked on it after seeing his videos "Almost a boat" on this site. 1.5m span😮 Oops! We've digressed again😉
    4 months ago by RNinMunich


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