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    Fairacre broads cabin cruiser
    Saved from a farm rubbish bin and restored. It was originally scratch built from a 60s/70s RCM ? plan. Photos of rebuild are in the harbour. Not sure if it was originally built in the UK and immigrated to NZ as it's an unusual subject for a NZ build. Plans are apparently still available. I've just found some info on Bates 'Starcraft' cruisers, UK. Looks like the original R/C plan may have been modeled on a
    of one of the 'Starcraft' variants.
    23 hours ago by jbkiwi
    Look for a simple balsa build
    Having owned a laser cutter for nearly 10 years , I have found that most old hand drawn plans are inaccurate and a lot of the old die cut kit parts are not only inaccurate but in most cases the bulkheads for instance are asymmetrical. When making a model you have to first correct the bulkheads etc (not difficult using Corel) and then cut a prototype to determine what further errors there are. Back to the drawing board to correct those, and then a further test cut etc. In the early days it would take about 6
    s to correct all the errors , but with experience have now whittled it down to about 3 as areas likely to have errors can be anticipated. There is also the difficulty of for instance "3mm" thick material that can vary from about 2.7mm to 3.4mm and that can mean parts don't fit. Having said that I have cut most of the EezEbilt models from the site and the errors are minor besides being balsa they are easy to correct especially using water-resistant quick drying PVA glue. With enlarged
    s you have to correct the slots etc so its easy enough to check on Corel for any inaccuracies. (That is one of the beauties of digital plans - you can produce a model at any size you choose). Most Lasers use dxf CAD files which Corel converts for you either way importing or exporting. One of the drawbacks my partner and I see is that in CAD drawings a curve is represented by a large number of straight lines which makes for a very large file. In Corel a curve is simply a curve and hence a much smaller file. PDF files are very problematic for most modellers as for instance two files imported from the same source can vary in size dramatically and you then have parts that don't match. The same applies to printing pdf plans in parts on an A4 printer - the pages very often don't line up. JPG files are much less of a problem as sizes go. My personal feeling is that the mismatch of parts is probably due to the use of pdf files with their associated problems. Some printers unfortunately do not allow you to adjust sizes other than in a rudimentary fashion.
    3 days ago by redpmg
    CNC boat kits...?
    Aluminium for stables? Perhaps a slab of oak would be more appropriate? I am cutting slices off old oak fence posts for use as coasters and think I can engrave them using the 'boat motor cutter' - so long as the cut is not deep. A laser would be ideal - but the cost and the danger mean that it needs a bit of thinking about. I must look up the Rumba and mega2560. One issue I have with the Uno and GRBL is that the software does not do 'tool radius compensation'. You have to do this in your con
    , and Dfx2Gcode does not do this either. I do not know if there is a GRBL
    running on the 2650 which does do this. Essentially you need a GRBL which implements G41/2 commands, or you will have to do the compensation in your original drawing. I am using sub-milimeter cutting tools for balsa, so the compensation required is negligible and can be ignored, but when cutting ply I may need to worry about it. Your TMC2130s may not need endstops, but the limit switches are also used for homing. You will find that if you want to cut lots of parts out of a single sheet of material, it helps to be able to home accurately. GRBL allows you to have a 'master machine home' and then several subsidiary homes. So, when cutting, I start with the cutter in the master home position in the top right corner, then move it to a secondary home position which is directly over the workpiece top right, then do all of my cutting in relation to that secondary home position...
    5 days ago by DodgyGeezer
    Re: Z-39 German WW2 Destroyer
    Excellent job Haig๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿ‘ I see you've even managed to build in the lousy seakeeping of the originals!๐Ÿ˜‰ Caused by trying to make up for lack of numbers by giving them light cruiser guns. Looking forward to one of your great videos of her. I have the 1/72 plans for an earlier type 1936
    in my stash. Idea is to make a contemporary opponent for my 1/72 H class HMS Hotspur H01 as in the Narvik battle. HMS Hotspur in pic alongside my 1/72 U-25. She has rotating aft turrets only as the foredeck is one piece glued in to stiffen the hull. Working on a 'plug-in module' idea (like the Blohm & Voss MEKO ships) to get round that. Also has NAV, search and signal lamps, whoop whoop and fog horns, smoker and a somewhat 'out of period' rotating radar on the director tower. That will be replaced with a more typical Yagi array - when I can get around to it.๐Ÿค” (Anyone got a Round Tuit to spare please?๐Ÿคฃ) Keep 'em coming Haig. Cheers Doug๐Ÿ˜Ž
    7 days ago by RNinMunich
    Model Boat crew....
    Maybe another way (certainly in 1/72 scale) is to pewter cast new crew. I took the original figures included with the Flower Class model and made a RTV silicon cast of them (to ensure I had an original copy) This method is simple - place the figures into plasticine contained within a lego 'walled' structure, then pour on something like GP-3481 from Polycraft (Although I use MBR-s
    ). Once cured, repeat in reverse to get complete figures i.e put half silicon mold containing the figures at bottom of box, paint on some vaseline as a mold release and to stop the silicon bonding to itself, then pour more silicon. Wait for it to set and then split the new mold, remove the original figures, cut some feed and vents and then clamp halves together after dusting with talc and then cast them in Pewter. I made about 20 figures and then set about changing arm positions, legs, caps etc with simple jewellers files etc. Then I recast the figures in more silicon, more pewter and finally painted and posed them. The RTV and Pewter casting techniques are widely seen on YouTube and I found it so easy. It's not the cheapest way (although it undercuts buying cast white metal figures commercially) and it meant I could not only get the crew looking how I wanted, but the molds last ages and I can recast many more at any time for the next project. Incidentally, I always use scrap lead free pewter found on line or in local car boots for pennies. As an aside, I also used the same technique to make many more splinter canvases for the bridge of HMCS Regina - saved me buying more!
    18 days ago by Spock66
    Re: Steam engine.
    I am pleased to hear you are doing a building blog, and even more so in the fact it will be steam powered. Both myself and plenty of others will be monitoring your progress with interest, and I wouldn't worry about the time factor as it takes as long as it takes, and it's as simple as that. I think your Formidable LT100 has inspired me enough to buy the John Hemmings
    of the same, despite the fact it is rather expensive. you are an inspiration young man enjoy your build, I think I can safely say that as everyone is younger than me. Regards, Gary.
    25 days ago by GaryLC
    Transmitter Mode 2
    Hi JK, Mode 1, Mode 2? Pooh pooh! I have the German branded
    of the i6, also a Spektrum D6 and a Graupner MC-10 40Meg set (for my subs๐Ÿ˜‰). I use a simple convention on all of them. Throttle and rudder are both on the right stick, channels 1 and 2 respectively. ALL aircraft special functions and mixers are switched OFF. Connect ESC and rudder servo to the corresponding outputs at the RX and away you go. Regardless of which Mode the TX thinks it is. This means that I can control the boat with one thumb. Leaving the other hand free for the special function pots and switches, or the Bierkrug๐Ÿ˜‹ I sail at the Ostpark Lake here in Munich, sitting at the edge of the Biergarten on the bank of the lake ๐Ÿ˜ See pic of my usual corner. My TX can be set to either Mode 1 or 2. I left in Mode 1. Mode 1 or mode 2 doesn't matter, unless some sets have the self centring stick built in on the left. Even these can be swapped over to the right. Or use the left thumb for navigating! Only minor irritation with this setup; on all the modern 2.4Gig sets designed for the fly boys, is that on switch-on the TX still demands that the throttle,which it 'thinks' is left stick, is pulled down or it won't boot โ˜น๏ธ Safety feature for aircraft motors! No chopped fingers๐Ÿ˜ฎ Haven't found a way to switch this off yet. It's embedded in the firmware.๐Ÿค” Cheers, Doug๐Ÿ˜Ž
    28 days ago by RNinMunich
    New forum rankings.
    Thanks Tertius, Carry on with your superb ships and I'm sure we'll be chatting in the Wardroom again soon enough. How's the MEKO sailing? Got the heli flying yet? ๐Ÿ˜‰ As you know, having worked on MEKOs I've got a 'soft spot' for them! Maybe one day I'll 'scratch' the successor to the SAN type, the Algerian Navy
    MEKO-200-AN, for which I designed the COMMS system. Hard work but also good fun. During the project 'somehow' a set of outline and GA drawings 'fell' into my hands๐Ÿ˜‰ "Ohhhh, a life on the ocean wave ...." Cheers, Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž
    1 month ago by RNinMunich
    Re: Virgin Atlantic Challenger
    Hi there the plans were free issued in Model Boats July 1995 - they are a very simplified
    of the real boat. They are very straightforward and easy to build from. Magazine Exchange has a copy of the magazine - but I don't think the plans are with it from their website. http://magazineexchange.co.uk/cw/model-boats-magazine-july-1995-issue.html but this gives you an idea what to look for - the Magazine - together with plans attached - do often come up on Ebay. To answer your question about the rudder; I just wanted to keep the rudder as per plan and sail the model as its fun to sail as it is - as you can see on the short video. By the way I do apologise for the video - the camera person was getting used to her new phone :-) John
    1 month ago by JOHN
    Editing Models in Harbour
    I have tried to edit the photos of my boats in the Harbour and try as I may there seems to be something wrong. If you delete a photo, what you then get is a silhouette of a head but no photo. Used to be no problem on the previous
    but seems to be an issue now. Alan
    1 month ago by ads90
    New Website Sneak Peak
    Hi. i have previously used my ipad but the new site loads but will not allow me to use any of the features, not even log in with face book .is this because i could not use the app before as my ipad
    was to early and now its to early for the web site too. Im am sending this from my phone. Rogal.
    1 month ago by Rogal118

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