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    Forum
    Movies.
    Missing the landing part in the full movie I watched last night Red, 2
    version
    s perhaps? Didn't realize there was a Kiwi actress (Barbara Ewing) in it till later.
    2 days ago by jbkiwi
    Forum
    Fishtailing
    Hi Doug, I found that when I went to play it windows media player says it's got an extension (.mpg4) which it doesn't recognize but will still play it. Probably a basic or older
    version
    of WMP although I've found that problem now and again for years. My TV satellite receiver records in an odd format (TS) so I had to get a converter app for that (along with an FLV converter) My new-ish HP Pavilion 23 -Windows 8.2- converted all my MPG movies from my 2TB external HD- previously from Vista, into FLV format without being asked to, when I first plugged it in๐Ÿ˜ ๐Ÿ˜ ??). Pain in the butt having to convert things, don't know why the world doesn't standardize, would make life simpler!
    3 days ago by jbkiwi
    Forum
    Workshop
    "Nifty little lathe,- Proxxon- looks German? " Correct! (Richtig๐Ÿ˜‰) https://www.proxxon.com/en/micromot/24150.php The little milling machine is also Proxxon. https://www.proxxon.com/en/micromot/27110.php There's also now a CNC ready
    version
    - There wasn't back then ๐Ÿ˜ญ๐Ÿ˜ญ https://www.proxxon.com/en/micromot/27112.php Might invest in the MICRO compound table KT-70/CNC-ready! to upgrade my manual job! They have a range of bigger
    version
    s as well https://www.proxxon.com/en/micromot/precision-lathe-and-milling-systems.php Not the cheapest around, but built like the proverbial brick "whatsit" house๐Ÿ˜‰ Google / Ebay around, should be able to find some at reasonable prices. Think I paid around โ‚ฌ150 for my little lathe back then. The miller around โ‚ฌ90. Happy machining folks, don't forget the goggles๐Ÿค“ Cheers, Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž PS Odd!? Someone else's pics keep creeping in?? A new phenomenon!๐Ÿ˜
    5 days ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Movies.
    and they couldn't even spell Michael Redgrave's name right on the remastered
    version
    ! ๐Ÿ™„ On the other hand- "obviously not a big budget movie" Were there any "big budgets" back in those austere post war times? Guess they had to go with what they had / could afford and tried to make an entertaining ''hero worship" film to get bums on seats rather than a documentary. You're right; a lot of the acting was pretty hammy ๐Ÿค” but the boat details are good, as long as you know what you are supposed to be looking at๐Ÿ˜‰ See attached pics of a 100 series and the 2561 Hants & Dorset ๐Ÿ˜‰ Cheers, Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž
    8 days ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    EeZeBilts From Keil Kraft
    A fellow member of this site saved all the EeZeBilts from extinction by setting up a website - obtaining all the kits or drawings thereof , drawing parts and publishing them free to all. He has done a lot more including trying to save "Orphan" model boat plans in the way Outer Zone and Aerofred have done for model aircraft plans on the Old Boats site. In addition there are websites for Taycol Motors and Adamcraft besides the Vintage and Old boats section of RC groups On the EeZeBilt website is a challenge to produce what he has called EeZeBilt 50+'s being larger models built the same way. So far he has produced most of them ranging from a Steam Launch , PT Boat , a Sea Queen
    version
    . Life Boats , Fire Tender and his latest a Russian OSA missile boat. Model Boats magazine has published a few plans in a similar genre lately in A3 sized plans - and a few years ago the story of a build of two of his models featured in the magazine without any kind of acknowledgement. What I would like to do is issue a challenge to fellow members to have a go at designing a new 50+
    version
    over the winter building season . I have been trying for a few years to finish the design of a Miami Crash Boat - SA
    version
    R9 which a friend purchased from the SAN many years ago. Determined now to have it finished before Christmas - and publish the plans in the new year. I am willing to help put the plans into usable format (jpg) using Corel Draw for anyone with only hand drawing facilities. Would be nice to see a few fishing boats - more tugs - Cabin Cruisers etc etc.
    28 days ago by redpmg
    Response
    Re: 40'' Seaplane Tender, new build (V2) sound units
    Hi Carlos, Lucky bugger, what a great job! I was in the RNZAF marine section for a short while while they were still using the STs for target towing for the new (at the time) P3b Orions). I wanted to stay there but they wanted me to go back to training for aircraft engines. We still have 3 or 4 STs left in NZ (including one running, one being restored and a locally built one in the RNZAF museum). Assuming 1502 is the MK 2 wider hulled
    version
    ? Think I saw a story on her restoration somewhere.
    9 days ago by jbkiwi
    Response
    Re: 40'' Seaplane Tender, new build U
    Hi MT, sound units are actually for cars but have a choice of 58 sounds from V8s to diesels and are the only ones I've seen which seem to sound ok. You have to go through all the sounds and try them through the throttle range but there are a number which sound ok for boats. You can also plug them into your computer and make a few changes such as throttle sensitivity, turbo sound and volume etc. The sounds are proportional, from starting to full throttle and are all WAV sounds which seem to be split up into small 'samples' and as such, some are not quite linear but are useable. There are 2 different models, One is the 'GT Power' sound and lights model -
    version
    2 (the better I think) which comes with all the pre wired and plugged LEDs needed for a car, (h/l, t/l, indicators etc) and comes as a module and separate speaker, (you can plug 2 speakers into this module for better sound). The other model is the 'GT Power' Car Engine Sound 'mini' which is just the sound module and speaker in one box. This works the same as the
    version
    2 model but at present I'm having a problem with the Mini, which has the wrong model for USB adjustment installed, (sounds can be selected manually on the module but when you plug the module into the comp and open the module control panel, it's for the wrong model, - sound files are still viewable though) I'll have to contact GT Power for a fix (going by their on line help page, they seem quite ready to sort problems out and give solutions) Cost is around $56 NZ for the
    version
    2, and around $ 51 for the 'Mini'
    version
    which is comparable to most other sound units available, but with more features than some. Apparently, if you send the GT Power tech/help guy a complete WAV sound file (ie, start, idle, and steady slow acceleration to full and back they will make a sound file for your unit and email it back to you,(yet to try but would be brilliant if true) Units are sold on Ebay, Ali Express and Banggood (and many other model shops) and it's worth shopping around all of them, as there are big price differences. These are also sold as GOOL RC sound units but are made by GT Power. ( http://www.gt-rc.com/en/msgBoard.jsp ) You will see the home page on there. I use a number of their products such as battery chargers, rev counters, battery checkers etc and all seem very reliable and work well. I don't think they sell direct, but they are sold everywhere. For Rooky Sailors benefit, the motors are Gool RC 540-45T 7.4V brushed car motors which have ball bearings and replaceable brushes (motor is rebuildable). Haven't tried them on the water yet, but the 45T (12000rpm) should be tourqy enough (different turn Nos are available) John B
    10 days ago by jbkiwi
    Forum
    EeZeBilts From Keil Kraft
    You can create the element, or Icon (also known as "Shapes" in some programs), by grouping the vector objects. It can then be easily moved around in one lump ๐Ÿ˜‰ When I have the object I group it, write the Part name/
    version
    into a box then group that with the object. If you have the Element, Icon Shape (whatever!) sidebar open you can copy your new "thing" straight into it for future use / reference. The program then stores the shapes associated with that particular drawing or drawings where they are used. Separate shapes files are created which enables their use in new drawings. Sets of particular types of shapes can thus be created. You'll be amazed how soon you have a comprehensive library ๐Ÿ˜Š Of course you can use all the normal aspect, scaling, modification functions as usual when you add a basic shape to a new drawing. Update the label and away you go again!
    11 days ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    EeZeBilts From Keil Kraft
    I think the original
    version
    dates from the early 90's. I first used it in the mid 90's while working on the Niteroi Frigates (Vosper Mark 10) in the Naval Arsenal in Rio. Jolly times ๐Ÿ˜‰ Surely it must be possible to add a text box to each element in your package?
    11 days ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    EeZeBilts From Keil Kraft
    "....or multi-page drawings with an incremented dwg / variation number...." I tried that. I got multiple different drawings with no clear idea of which one had the latest
    version
    of which feature...๐Ÿ˜ญ Actually, what I do is not too bad. I work across the screen, left to right, adding stages developing the plan. At each stage I am working on several varying features - these get developed down the page. So you can look at a page and say "I'll have one of those bows with that stern.." - but if you don't keep to this positioning things become difficult and you end up going to a new
    version
    ... "...I thought you meant at the stage of assembling to prove the drawings ..." The advantage of doing it on CAD is that there is little need to prove the drawings - if it fits on the screen it will fit in real life. Ideally, I should learn 3-D cad and then I can virtually assemble and look at clearances without any need to cut materials at all...
    12 days ago by DodgyGeezer
    Forum
    EeZeBilts From Keil Kraft
    Rhino 3D is a very good programme. Developed originally, like CATIA, for aircraft design and also used by boat companies. Used to be available for a certain number of free saves, a student
    version
    and the final fairly expensive
    version
    for commercial use. Martin
    17 days ago by Westquay
    Forum
    46'' RAF Crash Tender
    Hi I realise this is some what behind the thread, but I do wonder if the Towing Light is correct. It would be for today and possibly this millennium but back in the 1950's I wonder. There are 200 plus pages in the attached IMO link and not some much as a peep about Nav Lights, which seem to appear in the 1972
    version
    s. The is if you wish to be a pedantically accurate scale modeller, your call. Do not forget to scale up the distance you are viewing a model at, so many have there nose stuck to he model, so at 1/24 you are 24 inches away for every inch you are away from the model. So a couple of foot becomes 48 real feet, Time for a rest now as that is all to hard for an average modeller
    27 days ago by ikseno99
    Forum
    Magnetic motors
    Hi Martin, "This type of motor would be good if you could control the speed." Since the motor uses permanent magnets on both stator and rotor the speed will also be permanent and unalterable, as both magnetic fields are constant. To alter the speed of the vessel (or go astern!) you would need to alter the pitch of the prop and hence the thrust. 'Variable pitch propellers!' This is the operating principle of constant speed turbo-prop aero engines for example. VP props are also used on many ships these days. Needs some intricate gearing built into the prop hub, and controlled by !? ๐Ÿค” Control shaft running inside a hollow prop shaft? Don't know of any model
    version
    s on the market so if you find one, or come up with a way to DIY one I'd be MOST interested.๐Ÿ˜‰ A constant speed
    version
    driving a generator might be useful though๐Ÿ‘ IF it has enough torque. Might work with a decent gearbox? Cheers, Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž
    28 days ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Re: Workshop
    It's alive, we have power all machinery now wired in, only the lighting to do now .managed to get an old bobbin sander(allegedly obsolete) that was being replaced by a newer
    version
    and a box of assorted bobbins free gratis from my old work ,don't know if it will make my boats any better but better of in the shed than in a skip. Waiting for a laser or 3D printer to become obsolete soon๐Ÿ˜‚๐Ÿ˜‚
    1 month ago by marky
    Forum
    Magnetic motors
    So now you know how our brushless motors work as well Martin ๐Ÿ‘ Giant
    version
    s must be driving HMS Queen Elizabeth and the T-45s. ๐Ÿ˜Ž
    1 month ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Boat retrieval
    Interesting thought. There's always the bedside cranes they have for lifting patients around in hospitals, There is a hydraulic
    version
    , so doesn't need electrics, but I don't rate one of those (yet). They would be very heavy and awkward to lug around though. I take most of the night watches on this ship! Need another drink and a snack before I turn in. No doubt, speak tomorrow, I mean today. Cheers, Nerys
    1 month ago by Nerys
    Forum
    Motor reversing
    Thanks for the link Fred๐Ÿ‘ First thread I looked at 'Submarines and 2.4GHz' is a timely warning! Read it and you will understand why I have a stock of 40MHz RXs from Standard to Pico
    version
    s. And why I bought all the 40Meg crystals I could find locally a few years ago. I also have two MC-10 40Meg transmitters plus the 40Meg job that came with my Southampton tug. Southampton is being converted to 2.4Gig leaving that TX free for my subs๐Ÿ˜Š Cheers, Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž http://www.theassociationofmodelsubmariners.com/t83-openlrs-and-2-4-ghz-and-submarines BTW: I think this should be a good source of 40Meg sets, tailored to submarine use๐Ÿ˜Š, for some time to come. This guy is a specialist who does ONLY sub stuff. https://engel-modellbau.eu/shop/en/home/
    1 month ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Turnigy A-6-10 200W Balance charger & discharger
    Hi Michael, I had to make up adaptor leads as well for my bigger NiMhs; one for Tamiya and one for XT60s. The third pin on the socket has no connection. The manufacturer of these gizmos seems to assume that they will only be used for RX batteries!๐Ÿค” "These batteries will be used in parallel so can they go through this discharge/charge process linked together? " If you mean all connected in parallel - I'm afraid not๐Ÿค” The charger controller would get awfully confused! As it has to be able to read the individual pack voltages in order to control the process and know when to stop discharging and start charging. To cycle both batteries simultaneously you need a two port charger. Something like the one in attached pic. I also recently acquired a Graupner Polaron EX two port charger. https://www.graupner.com/Polaron-EX-charger-red/S2011.R/ More expensive (a lot!) but it can also do a lot more for your battery management. You can programme and store several different types and capacities of batteries; SLA, NiMh, LiPo, LiFe etc and set all necessary parameters; number of cycles, discharge current, charge current, stop criteria, timer etc. A selectable tabular or graphic display shows you how the cycle is progressing and the status of the battery. It will also tell you the internal resistance of the battery to give you an idea of it's quality and suitability for high current applications๐Ÿ˜‰ Does LiPos and SLAs as well. I just bought the two port DC only
    version
    without mains input cos I already had a 13.8V 17A supply kicking about doin' nowt! You can also hang the charger on a 12V SLa or car battery. As I have a considerable number of LiPos and NiMhs for various purposes, and having had sad and costly experiences in the past with failed batteries, I considered it a reasonable investment to get the most out of my batteries! Cheers, Doug
    1 month ago by RNinMunich
    Response
    Re: Mermaid sport fisherman
    Had the same motor (MK 1
    version
    ) on the back of my own design tunnel, went quite well but had a job getting main bearings (odd size) so re built it and sold it.
    1 month ago by jbkiwi
    Forum
    Batteries in a DX5e
    "Straighten up and fly right, by Sammy Davis Junior, the best entertainer the world has ever seen" I almost agree Martin๐Ÿ‘ But SDJ didn't write it. Nat King Cole and Irving Mills did in 1943 I think. But Sammy did a good cover on his 1965 'Nat King Cole Songbook album. I like the
    version
    (Major!) Glenn Miller arranged for the Big Band and played with his Army Air Corps Band in London during the war. Somewhere I've still got copies of 'The Secret Recordings' made during those concerts which were broadcast to the troops after D-Day and collated by the late great Alan Dell. Great stuff. Cheers, Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž BTW I hope that during the winter you diligently checked and charged all your batteries, Lipo or especially NiMH??? As we discussed back then๐Ÿ˜‰
    2 months ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Batteries in a DX5e
    Hi Martin, Save your money, time and effort! Just like my DX6 your TX needs 6V from Alkaline batteries. To get 6V from NiMH you'll need 5 cells, which you haven't got a cat in hells chance of squishing in. A fully charged 4 cell pack may show up to around 5.6V OFF LOAD. So you start around half a volt short in the first place. Shortly after a load is applied the cell voltages will drop to their nominal 1.2V. Giving 4.8V for the TX. This is roughly the voltage of 4 nearly flat alkaline cells. 2000mAH cells have been recommended. Good quality Alkaline cells made to the IEC standard, such as Varta or Duracell, have a capacity of around 2500mAH. Make sure you get the Heavy Duty
    version
    , i.e. for cameras. These will last for ages, unless you forget to turn it off ๐Ÿ˜‰ When I tested your TX the switch was perfectly OK and I don't think you can get a toggle switch in without major surgery anyway. I'm not fan of slide switches either, they are always the first thing I have to replace in Gisela's garden lights and fountain pumps etc, usually due to corrosion. But considering the low usage, without getting wet (unless you fall in the pond with it๐Ÿ˜ฎ), it will have in your TX it shouldn't be a problem. The reason your rechargeables kept popping out is that many of them are a fraction larger than the alkalines. I've had this problem with several devices. I use alkaline in my DX6 and my Turnigy clone. No problems. The only TX I use NiMH in is an old Graupner MC-10, 40Megs for my submarines. But it was designed for use with a 9.6V pack in the first place and has a charging socket. Does your DX5E have a charging socket? No! Neither does my DX6. Cheers, Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž
    2 months ago by RNinMunich
    Response
    Re: Joining the fuselage.
    Hi again Pete, Check the specs before you order! MFA's 380
    version
    does about 19k revs!!๐Ÿ˜ฎ Look for original Mabuchis or Johnsons. They are a bit tamer๐Ÿ˜‰ 25mm could be a problem! I think the 380s / 385s are all 27-28mm๐Ÿค” Scrape a mil off the inside of your tech rack tube!? OR, go for a 280 size (23.8mm dia๐Ÿ˜Š) such as this from AliExpress- https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Gasoline-generator-accessories-2-7KW-168F-170F-188F-190F-gasoline-engine-GX160-spark-plug/32829174930.html Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž
    2 months ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Help identify
    Hi Sidley, Glad I could help resolve the mystery ๐Ÿ˜Š Clue was the most unusual structure of the foredeck. I'm pretty certain that this 'one off' never ever wore the number 1258! I've not seen any other
    version
    s with this foredeck structure. Which of course doesn't necessarily mean they didn't exist! I can only assume that the model builder used the Pennant number 1258 from sheer nostalgia for a boat he may have served on, but 1258 sure wasn't built like the model you have. Whatever, have great fun sailing her, post some pics / videos when she's finished please ๐Ÿ‘ All the best, Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž
    2 months ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Hints and Tips.
    Great tip Colin, thanks๐Ÿ‘ Now I know how to fix a model of a boat I sailed on in Brazil several years ago 'Queen Lory' in Buzios. I was working in the Brazilian navy yard in Rio for several weeks and used to go up to Buzios at the weekends. That's the sort of thing I miss since retiring. All the office politics rubbish I don't miss at all ๐Ÿ˜‰ Managed to stick my thumb through the cabin roof of the modelโ˜น๏ธ Been thinking of scaling it up to make an RC
    version
    . I'll take some pics tomorrow. (make that later today๐Ÿ˜ฎ) Cheers, Doug PS Wadaya know! Found some pics of the original on the web! https://www.google.com/search?q=queen+lory+buzios&client=firefox-b-d&tbm=isch&source=iu&ictx=1&fir=ouxXG__-25HQmM%253A%252CGg1hT_kx_6p82M%252C_&vet=1&usg=AI4_-kQw9hQsdZ1jaB_ASAtDMfmBHHKh4g&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwiapu__0OziAhVDU1AKHZQ2D3QQ9QEwBXoECAAQBg#imgrc=ouxXG__-25HQmM:
    2 months ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Reversing Field-Wound motors
    That's what I intend to do Dodgy, with my Target. If I'm happy with it I'll fit it to my fish cutter. As you say it eliminates the voltage drop across the diodes, and also the heat generated in the bridge๐Ÿ‘ @ Colin-H; if you like I'll send you one to replace the rectifier
    version
    you have? Cheers, Doug
    2 months ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Battery backup
    Hey! Thought you hitting the sack? What happened? Sack hit back? ๐Ÿค•๐Ÿ˜‰ Yep, on the LiPo
    version
    s (like mine) you can set the threshold for 2.7V upwards. Didn't know there were also NiMh
    version
    s. But then - I haven't looked! The primary function of these cheap little gadgets is a quick rough indication of the battery voltage, and the individual cell voltages. It's only a rough guide - Go / No Go for another run so to speak. My comparative measurements using a mains Lab voltmeter showed considerable discrepancy so I'm not sure I'd rely on it as an alarm. OTOH; if it works for your aircraft - Why not? I agree, LiPo con
    version
    is the way. I've tried my best here but some folks are still afraid of LiPos. I have tried to explain that if you buy quality not cheapest you can find and follow the rules there shouldn't be any problem. I admit I still have some NiMh which I use together with ESCs which are not 'LiPo safe'; i.e. they do not have the built in cut off function (or throttle limiter on some hi end
    version
    s) designed for use with LiPos. So far I have ONLY seen this function for LiPos. Coming up to midnight up here so it's my turn to 'hit the sack', G'night all. Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž ๐Ÿ’ค๐Ÿ’ค PS I get RX Low battery warning on the TX display! ๐Ÿ˜‰
    2 months ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Hints and Tips.
    Or a shorter
    version
    I was told when about 12yrs old, by a boat builder,- there's no red port left in the bottle. Same thing but different. (NZ
    version
    )
    2 months ago by jbkiwi
    Forum
    Help and advice please
    Excellent suggestion TG ๐Ÿ‘ I use the German branded
    version
    of this system and it works perfectly. You only have to first dump or overwrite all the default aircraft/heli presets! Gren: dump the 27MHz receiver. Your chances of finding a matching transmitter are remote. And the 27MHz band is prone to severe interference anyway ๐Ÿค” Cheers, Doug Oh! BTW: Welcome aboard ๐Ÿ‘
    2 months ago by RNinMunich
    Response
    Re: WTC/Sub Driver.
    Thanks Martin. This project really does look right up my street. I will give it some thought. That`s enough of that thinking. Over rated. I will look for the basic kit. Amazon have the Revell 850394 which appears to be the same kit but a later
    version
    . I will look into that. Thanks Martin. Peter. Yes Doug....Another project. I hope to be retired for a very long time.๐Ÿ˜Š
    3 months ago by MouldBuilder
    Forum
    Glue
    Martin - don't you have to use something like Mek Poly for ABS . I bought a model tug kit with ABS hull (George Turner) - ordinary polystyrene cement did not even touch it The UHU
    version
    which is stronger than the other types did not work. Tried 4 different glues with nothing doing then used Mek Poly - instant bond. Been told that its actually used as a hardener for polyester resin - so got 500ml of hardener (cheap) but have not had cause to use it yet.
    3 months ago by redpmg
    Response
    Re: (Naval Ship) HMS Belfast
    Hi Doug. I have a half built Graupner Taucher Wulf in my โ€œstashโ€ of kits. I put it away to come back to later. That kit, like your Premium Line warships, is a little disappointing. The hull is fiberglass, and some of the fittings are ok, but the instructions are horrid. Iโ€™m an accomplished modeler, but donโ€™t make me guess where to drill for the rudder post!!! Things like that. Iโ€™ve built 3 Micro Magicโ€™s, all race
    version
    s, the first was an original German kit, the last two are from later, when Graupner reorganized. If I hadnโ€™t built the original kit first, I would have a heck of a time building the other two. Now, to Graupner credit, the last MM I built seemed to be a little better than the second, and all three sail well. I just wish Graupner would do a little better job on their manuals, and quality control. Krick has done a fine job with the RO-Marin kits, hope they keep it up. Part of the reason I like German kit manufacturers so much is a bit of nostalgia, I was stationed at Ramstein AB from 1988 to 1992, I have fond memories of building kits from Robbe, Graupner and Krick when I was stationed there. Anyhow, back to the new Graupner kits...I feel your pain.
    3 months ago by Cashrc
    Forum
    Aerokits pt boat plan
    The second of these is the Aerokits 40" PT Boat. It was the only plan which came with the kit, though there were comprehensive instructions as well. The first of these is a rather confusing mixture of two copies of the EeZeBilt 20" PT boat cutting lines (of completely different construction to the Aerokits), the EeZeBilt RAF Crash Tender (early
    version
    with errors), two sets of PT boat instructions and the cutting lines for a small original Keil Kraft propeller. Don't you think it would be much better to reference the web site for download, where A&R can select a boat, see the build log, completed pictures, and obtain the latest plans with error corrections for them - http://eezebilt.tk/plans.html ?
    4 months ago by DodgyGeezer
    Media
    Fairacre broads cabin cruiser
    Saved from a farm rubbish bin and restored. It was originally scratch built from a 60s/70s RCM ? plan. Photos of rebuild are in the harbour. Not sure if it was originally built in the UK and immigrated to NZ as it's an unusual subject for a NZ build. Plans are apparently still available. I've just found some info on Bates 'Starcraft' cruisers, UK. Looks like the original R/C plan may have been modeled on a
    version
    of one of the 'Starcraft' variants.
    4 months ago by jbkiwi
    Forum
    Look for a simple balsa build
    Having owned a laser cutter for nearly 10 years , I have found that most old hand drawn plans are inaccurate and a lot of the old die cut kit parts are not only inaccurate but in most cases the bulkheads for instance are asymmetrical. When making a model you have to first correct the bulkheads etc (not difficult using Corel) and then cut a prototype to determine what further errors there are. Back to the drawing board to correct those, and then a further test cut etc. In the early days it would take about 6
    version
    s to correct all the errors , but with experience have now whittled it down to about 3 as areas likely to have errors can be anticipated. There is also the difficulty of for instance "3mm" thick material that can vary from about 2.7mm to 3.4mm and that can mean parts don't fit. Having said that I have cut most of the EezEbilt models from the site and the errors are minor besides being balsa they are easy to correct especially using water-resistant quick drying PVA glue. With enlarged
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    s you have to correct the slots etc so its easy enough to check on Corel for any inaccuracies. (That is one of the beauties of digital plans - you can produce a model at any size you choose). Most Lasers use dxf CAD files which Corel converts for you either way importing or exporting. One of the drawbacks my partner and I see is that in CAD drawings a curve is represented by a large number of straight lines which makes for a very large file. In Corel a curve is simply a curve and hence a much smaller file. PDF files are very problematic for most modellers as for instance two files imported from the same source can vary in size dramatically and you then have parts that don't match. The same applies to printing pdf plans in parts on an A4 printer - the pages very often don't line up. JPG files are much less of a problem as sizes go. My personal feeling is that the mismatch of parts is probably due to the use of pdf files with their associated problems. Some printers unfortunately do not allow you to adjust sizes other than in a rudimentary fashion.
    4 months ago by redpmg
    Forum
    CNC boat kits...?
    Aluminium for stables? Perhaps a slab of oak would be more appropriate? I am cutting slices off old oak fence posts for use as coasters and think I can engrave them using the 'boat motor cutter' - so long as the cut is not deep. A laser would be ideal - but the cost and the danger mean that it needs a bit of thinking about. I must look up the Rumba and mega2560. One issue I have with the Uno and GRBL is that the software does not do 'tool radius compensation'. You have to do this in your con
    version
    , and Dfx2Gcode does not do this either. I do not know if there is a GRBL
    version
    running on the 2650 which does do this. Essentially you need a GRBL which implements G41/2 commands, or you will have to do the compensation in your original drawing. I am using sub-milimeter cutting tools for balsa, so the compensation required is negligible and can be ignored, but when cutting ply I may need to worry about it. Your TMC2130s may not need endstops, but the limit switches are also used for homing. You will find that if you want to cut lots of parts out of a single sheet of material, it helps to be able to home accurately. GRBL allows you to have a 'master machine home' and then several subsidiary homes. So, when cutting, I start with the cutter in the master home position in the top right corner, then move it to a secondary home position which is directly over the workpiece top right, then do all of my cutting in relation to that secondary home position...
    4 months ago by DodgyGeezer
    Response
    Re: Z-39 German WW2 Destroyer
    Excellent job Haig๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿ‘ I see you've even managed to build in the lousy seakeeping of the originals!๐Ÿ˜‰ Caused by trying to make up for lack of numbers by giving them light cruiser guns. Looking forward to one of your great videos of her. I have the 1/72 plans for an earlier type 1936
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    in my stash. Idea is to make a contemporary opponent for my 1/72 H class HMS Hotspur H01 as in the Narvik battle. HMS Hotspur in pic alongside my 1/72 U-25. She has rotating aft turrets only as the foredeck is one piece glued in to stiffen the hull. Working on a 'plug-in module' idea (like the Blohm & Voss MEKO ships) to get round that. Also has NAV, search and signal lamps, whoop whoop and fog horns, smoker and a somewhat 'out of period' rotating radar on the director tower. That will be replaced with a more typical Yagi array - when I can get around to it.๐Ÿค” (Anyone got a Round Tuit to spare please?๐Ÿคฃ) Keep 'em coming Haig. Cheers Doug๐Ÿ˜Ž
    4 months ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Model Boat crew....
    Maybe another way (certainly in 1/72 scale) is to pewter cast new crew. I took the original figures included with the Flower Class model and made a RTV silicon cast of them (to ensure I had an original copy) This method is simple - place the figures into plasticine contained within a lego 'walled' structure, then pour on something like GP-3481 from Polycraft (Although I use MBR-s
    version
    ). Once cured, repeat in reverse to get complete figures i.e put half silicon mold containing the figures at bottom of box, paint on some vaseline as a mold release and to stop the silicon bonding to itself, then pour more silicon. Wait for it to set and then split the new mold, remove the original figures, cut some feed and vents and then clamp halves together after dusting with talc and then cast them in Pewter. I made about 20 figures and then set about changing arm positions, legs, caps etc with simple jewellers files etc. Then I recast the figures in more silicon, more pewter and finally painted and posed them. The RTV and Pewter casting techniques are widely seen on YouTube and I found it so easy. It's not the cheapest way (although it undercuts buying cast white metal figures commercially) and it meant I could not only get the crew looking how I wanted, but the molds last ages and I can recast many more at any time for the next project. Incidentally, I always use scrap lead free pewter found on line or in local car boots for pennies. As an aside, I also used the same technique to make many more splinter canvases for the bridge of HMCS Regina - saved me buying more!
    5 months ago by Spock66
    Response
    Re: Steam engine.
    I am pleased to hear you are doing a building blog, and even more so in the fact it will be steam powered. Both myself and plenty of others will be monitoring your progress with interest, and I wouldn't worry about the time factor as it takes as long as it takes, and it's as simple as that. I think your Formidable LT100 has inspired me enough to buy the John Hemmings
    version
    of the same, despite the fact it is rather expensive. you are an inspiration young man enjoy your build, I think I can safely say that as everyone is younger than me. Regards, Gary.
    5 months ago by GaryLC
    Forum
    Transmitter Mode 2
    Hi JK, Mode 1, Mode 2? Pooh pooh! I have the German branded
    version
    of the i6, also a Spektrum D6 and a Graupner MC-10 40Meg set (for my subs๐Ÿ˜‰). I use a simple convention on all of them. Throttle and rudder are both on the right stick, channels 1 and 2 respectively. ALL aircraft special functions and mixers are switched OFF. Connect ESC and rudder servo to the corresponding outputs at the RX and away you go. Regardless of which Mode the TX thinks it is. This means that I can control the boat with one thumb. Leaving the other hand free for the special function pots and switches, or the Bierkrug๐Ÿ˜‹ I sail at the Ostpark Lake here in Munich, sitting at the edge of the Biergarten on the bank of the lake ๐Ÿ˜ See pic of my usual corner. My TX can be set to either Mode 1 or 2. I left in Mode 1. Mode 1 or mode 2 doesn't matter, unless some sets have the self centring stick built in on the left. Even these can be swapped over to the right. Or use the left thumb for navigating! Only minor irritation with this setup; on all the modern 2.4Gig sets designed for the fly boys, is that on switch-on the TX still demands that the throttle,which it 'thinks' is left stick, is pulled down or it won't boot โ˜น๏ธ Safety feature for aircraft motors! No chopped fingers๐Ÿ˜ฎ Haven't found a way to switch this off yet. It's embedded in the firmware.๐Ÿค” Cheers, Doug๐Ÿ˜Ž
    5 months ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    New forum rankings.
    Thanks Tertius, Carry on with your superb ships and I'm sure we'll be chatting in the Wardroom again soon enough. How's the MEKO sailing? Got the heli flying yet? ๐Ÿ˜‰ As you know, having worked on MEKOs I've got a 'soft spot' for them! Maybe one day I'll 'scratch' the successor to the SAN type, the Algerian Navy
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    MEKO-200-AN, for which I designed the COMMS system. Hard work but also good fun. During the project 'somehow' a set of outline and GA drawings 'fell' into my hands๐Ÿ˜‰ "Ohhhh, a life on the ocean wave ...." Cheers, Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž
    5 months ago by RNinMunich
    Response
    Re: Virgin Atlantic Challenger
    Hi there the plans were free issued in Model Boats July 1995 - they are a very simplified
    version
    of the real boat. They are very straightforward and easy to build from. Magazine Exchange has a copy of the magazine - but I don't think the plans are with it from their website. http://magazineexchange.co.uk/cw/model-boats-magazine-july-1995-issue.html but this gives you an idea what to look for - the Magazine - together with plans attached - do often come up on Ebay. To answer your question about the rudder; I just wanted to keep the rudder as per plan and sail the model as its fun to sail as it is - as you can see on the short video. By the way I do apologise for the video - the camera person was getting used to her new phone :-) John
    5 months ago by JOHN
    Forum
    Editing Models in Harbour
    I have tried to edit the photos of my boats in the Harbour and try as I may there seems to be something wrong. If you delete a photo, what you then get is a silhouette of a head but no photo. Used to be no problem on the previous
    version
    but seems to be an issue now. Alan
    5 months ago by ads90
    Forum
    New Website Sneak Peak
    Hi. i have previously used my ipad but the new site loads but will not allow me to use any of the features, not even log in with face book .is this because i could not use the app before as my ipad
    version
    was to early and now its to early for the web site too. Im am sending this from my phone. Rogal.
    5 months ago by Rogal118
    Blog
    Gina 2 Billing Boats Fish Cutter - Restoration & Con
    version
    As promised (or threatened?๐Ÿ˜) stage two of the hull work and thoughts on motorisation. The hull was sprayed with two coats of grey primer/filler. Pic1. As usual this showed up the remaining imperfections (pics 2 & 3), but I'm not going to worry about them until I've got prop shaft tube and rudder stock sorted out and permanently fitted ๐Ÿ˜‰ After my attempts to make and thread a 3mm prop shaft went awry Martin (Westway the Mechanicals Master๐Ÿ‘) stepped in and made me a decent one complete with a bushed stuffing tube ๐Ÿ‘ Vielen Dank Meister๐Ÿ˜Š I did however manage to make a 4mm to 3mm reducer so that I could fit a Rabeosch 35mm prop as seen in pics 2 & 3. The tube and shaft from Martin, arrived Saturday an' he only made it on Monday๐Ÿ˜Š, have been dry fitted so that I can start setting up the gears, necessary to bring the drive down to the prop shaft fitted very low down in the hull, and motor mount. Pic 4. Motorisation: (Remember folks - this kit was designed and built as a static model!) I want to use the old 1950s Taycol Target motor which my Dad originally fitted in the Sea Scout which I have renovated and upgraded to work forward and reverse with a standard ESC. See Build blog 'Sea Scout - Jessica' Many of you will know that the Taycol motors were field coil motors, meaning that they have no permanent magnet around the rotor coil, and thus reversing the battery connections to the brushes had no effect on the direction of rotation, as this simply reversed the magnetic fields of both stator and rotor coils๐Ÿค” To counteract this so that the motor could be used in both forward and reverse with a conventional brushed ESC I modified the motor slightly (separated the two coils) and built a simple converter board to connect it to the ESC. Again see the Sea Scout blog for the details of the con
    version
    . Basically; once the field coil and brush-gear (rotor coil) have been separated a simple diode bridge can be used to apply the output of the ESC to the motor. This enables the reversal of EITHER field OR rotor coil polarity, depending on how you connect the converter to the motor. Thus reversing the direction of rotation of the motor. Beneficial side effect is that the diodes also suppress the commutator sparking๐Ÿ˜Š In my case, with the Taycol Target, I also cleaned, flattened and polished the commutator. Thus significantly reducing the potential for spark generation in the first place! A peculiarity of the Taycol motors is that they all use metal brushes, pressed phosphor bronze strip, so they need oiling! DO NOT oil conventional brushed motors with carbon brushes unless the brushes are exchangeable or you want to have to buy a new motor!!!!! Pics 5 & 6 show the proposed position of the Taycol in Gina 2 and pic 7 the prototype converter board I knocked up to test the motor, together with a Graupner Navy V30R Marine Brushed ESC. Details and results in the Sea Scout blog, including video of the sparks and oscilloscope pics of the drive waveforms before and after con
    version
    ! The latter showing the spark suppression effect of the converter๐Ÿ˜Š Some samples attached - last 3 pics. Pic 8 pic shows a more compact
    version
    of the converter, one of a few types I'm doing for Martin's various Taycols as a trade for the prop shaft he made for me and some useful material he sent. Thanks mate๐Ÿ‘ Next steps will be 1) mounting the gears correctly on the shafts, requiring the manufacture of a 3/32" to 4mm adaptor and a 1/8" to 4mm adaptor, and keying them to the shafts - Hooray for mini milling machines ๐Ÿ˜‰ 2) manufacturing bushed end plates to hold the gears in place, 3) fitting the motor mounting platform. I'll probably borrow from my experiences of real shipbuilding and do this as a suspended 'false floor', i.e. mounted on stiff springs to enable adjustments to optimise the gearing mesh! On real naval ships this is done to improve shock resistance and to minimise engine noise / vibration conduction to the hull, thus significantly reducing the acoustic signature of the ship. Not that I'm tooo worried about being torpedoed ๐Ÿ˜ Worth a try๐Ÿ˜‰ Pic 9 shows the cleaned up and renovated Taycol Target motor. Pic 10 shows the drive waveform complete with sparks before modification.๐Ÿค” Pic 11 the cleaned 'forward' waveform with the converter board. Pic 12 the cleaned 'reverse' waveform, no suppression capacitors needed ๐Ÿ˜‰ More soon folks, Cheers, Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž PS Along the way a new keel was fitted as can be seen in pics 1 to 3. The original builder had 'buried' the keel in the hull planking! ๐Ÿ˜ฒ
    1 year ago by RNinMunich


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