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    HMT Resolve by Caldercraft
    Having already started the build, Martin555 suggested I do a build log. Never done one before so here goes. First impressions of the kit - very comprehensive and parts of good quality, as I would expect from the manufacturers, Jotika. However, I soon found that quite a few parts had been numbered incorrectly, so be careful! Two
    versions
    can be built, civilian and Royal Navy. Being a keen military modeller, there was no contest. My first decision was the power plant. Steam far too expensive and complicated, so I decided on electric. Recommended were 900 brushless motors which are very big lumps. Consultation with Jotika resulted in 540 2.5:1 geared motors which had the added advantage of lower shafts, making it easier to connect the prop shafts, which are parallel to the hull. 60mm 4 bladed props completed the drive train, which as you will see later from the sea trials proved very effective.
    2 months ago by cormorant
    Forum
    LATEST SMOKER, E-CIG ELEMENT
    Hi Mike, A Thermistor is a resistor whose resistance varies with it's temperature. PTC means Positive Temperature Coefficient. Which means that the resistance increase with temperature. Thermistor heaters come in various forms from tiny to huge and are used instead of nichrome wire for all sorts of heating jobs such as hair driers, bathroom fan heaters and in cars. They have the advantage that they can be designed for specific temperature ranges and when they reach their maximum design temp they stay there as long as the volts are applied๐Ÿ˜Š Possible disadvantages for our purposes are the initial heat-up time and operating current. Current is typically high while heating up but falls dramatically when at operating temperature when the resistance is at maximum. I=V/R ๐Ÿ˜‰. We'll see. After reading that article I started trolling my usual suppliers for suitable
    versions
    . No luck yet, either too small or way too big โ˜น๏ธ Anyway, I'm concentrating more on the alchemy side at the moment. I have several commercial mini smokers, e.g. for HO/OO scale locos etc., to experiment with. So I'm attacking the problem of the elusive 'Black Smoke'. As soon as I find some suitable thermistors heaters I'll be off and running๐Ÿคž Cheers, Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž
    22 days ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    LATEST SMOKER, E-CIG ELEMENT
    Appreciate the comment Elsrickle, I'm still having fun with new ideas as the possibilities are endless and open to your imagination. I'm sure you'll have fun experimenting (it's actually quite addictive). I think if anyone is thinking of building a smoke unit for a new boat, the idea might be to get one going well, then design in a place to mount it with easy access for filling/replacing element etc. Not the sort of thing to be completely built in. I like the ready made coils shown as they are tidy and easy to replace. Weight wise for eg, - the vertical vape tank version, (model X) weighs 100g (1/2 the weight of a 540 motor) and the alloy box coil only version was the same weight. The model X is 45mm Diam x 55mm H, so not that large considering, (40mm waste pipe with stop ends) and keeps it all tidy. A complete tank could be used just as a screw fitting (threads are very fine and hard to produce) without the glass and placed in a smaller tube and packed with cotton wool (to be soaked in smoke liquid) and air pushed through the element. So many
    versions
    are possible. JB
    23 days ago by jbkiwi
    Forum
    LATEST SMOKER, E-CIG ELEMENT
    Here are the various smoker
    versions
    I've made and the vape coils and tank I have used. Also the Heng Long smoker in standard form and the modified forms - box with fan, fan on tank and one converted to a pulsing air pump (red side outlet) All items were bought from Ali Express, but can be found on EBay etc. I have used the Vaporesso brand tank and coil which seem well made. The 'VECO' tank I bought comes in a proper box with authentication laser sticker and a spare tank glass, spare element and spare o-ring set, very nice! You will need to make an adapter if you use these, as they are made to be part of a complete device which houses the battery (which you don't need) The coil or tank have the body as one contact and an insulated inner (with coil) which is the other contact (see pics mine and Grahams to see methods used. I've shown here the independant coil attachment and the tank attachment methods I used in my applications. There are dozens of vape manufacturers and device types so it's up to you to work out how you will do it, $$ etc. I know these
    versions
    work well as long as you can get good controllable air flow and and control / set the voltage (regulators cheap on Ali Express in various forms). Happy smoking!๐Ÿ˜Šor๐Ÿ˜‰ JB, R&D at the Smoketory๐Ÿ˜‰
    24 days ago by jbkiwi
    Forum
    TRIAL FITTING SMOKE UNIT TO THE HSL
    Smoker fitted with new brass tube exhausts, plumbed up and working. Now waiting for a decent day to try it out on the water. Thinking of swapping the sound units for the new compact all in one
    versions
    which are a bit lighter, and will take up less room. Present ones are car sound and light
    versions
    with a separate control box and speaker taking up a lot of space. I want to get the exhausts up a bit, as at present they are right on the waterline (boat is a bit heavy and floats above the scale line). New smaller 6v water pump works fine. JB
    28 days ago by jbkiwi
    Response
    Re: Thames Barge.
    "I'd gladly send you some .." Thanks for the offer Nerys, but I guess you're right. 5 to 10 days underway would be a bit dodgy. โ˜น๏ธ Probably contrary to some PO or EU rule anyway๐Ÿค” I can get a reasonable range of English comestibles here in Munich. Lidl for one has frequent 'country' weeks, including English. Packs of frozen Chish & Fips etc. HP and Lee & Perrins sauces and Chivers jams / marmalade are quite common in supermarkets. As are Huntley & Palmer and Crawfords biscuits and shortbread. There are (or were?) two "English Shops" who get regular deliveries of English bacon and sausages an stuff, although the German & Danish
    versions
    here aren't bad. Beef sausages are very rare tho . Go there for me mince pies and Christmas Puds ๐Ÿ˜‹ Must check if the shops are still there, if so wonder what will happen to them after BREXIT! The Dijon "things" were probably full of mustard ๐Ÿ˜ฎ๐Ÿ˜ Have fun on Sunday ๐Ÿ‘โ›ต Cheers, Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž
    3 months ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Movies.
    Missing the landing part in the full movie I watched last night Red, 2
    versions
    perhaps? Didn't realize there was a Kiwi actress (Barbara Ewing) in it till later.
    4 months ago by jbkiwi
    Forum
    Workshop
    "Nifty little lathe,- Proxxon- looks German? " Correct! (Richtig๐Ÿ˜‰) https://www.proxxon.com/en/micromot/24150.php The little milling machine is also Proxxon. https://www.proxxon.com/en/micromot/27110.php There's also now a CNC ready version - There wasn't back then ๐Ÿ˜ญ๐Ÿ˜ญ https://www.proxxon.com/en/micromot/27112.php Might invest in the MICRO compound table KT-70/CNC-ready! to upgrade my manual job! They have a range of bigger
    versions
    as well https://www.proxxon.com/en/micromot/precision-lathe-and-milling-systems.php Not the cheapest around, but built like the proverbial brick "whatsit" house๐Ÿ˜‰ Google / Ebay around, should be able to find some at reasonable prices. Think I paid around โ‚ฌ150 for my little lathe back then. The miller around โ‚ฌ90. Happy machining folks, don't forget the goggles๐Ÿค“ Cheers, Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž PS Odd!? Someone else's pics keep creeping in?? A new phenomenon!๐Ÿ˜
    4 months ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    46'' RAF Crash Tender
    Hi I realise this is some what behind the thread, but I do wonder if the Towing Light is correct. It would be for today and possibly this millennium but back in the 1950's I wonder. There are 200 plus pages in the attached IMO link and not some much as a peep about Nav Lights, which seem to appear in the 1972
    versions
    . The is if you wish to be a pedantically accurate scale modeller, your call. Do not forget to scale up the distance you are viewing a model at, so many have there nose stuck to he model, so at 1/24 you are 24 inches away for every inch you are away from the model. So a couple of foot becomes 48 real feet, Time for a rest now as that is all to hard for an average modeller
    5 months ago by ikseno99
    Forum
    Magnetic motors
    Hi Martin, "This type of motor would be good if you could control the speed." Since the motor uses permanent magnets on both stator and rotor the speed will also be permanent and unalterable, as both magnetic fields are constant. To alter the speed of the vessel (or go astern!) you would need to alter the pitch of the prop and hence the thrust. 'Variable pitch propellers!' This is the operating principle of constant speed turbo-prop aero engines for example. VP props are also used on many ships these days. Needs some intricate gearing built into the prop hub, and controlled by !? ๐Ÿค” Control shaft running inside a hollow prop shaft? Don't know of any model
    versions
    on the market so if you find one, or come up with a way to DIY one I'd be MOST interested.๐Ÿ˜‰ A constant speed version driving a generator might be useful though๐Ÿ‘ IF it has enough torque. Might work with a decent gearbox? Cheers, Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž
    5 months ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Magnetic motors
    So now you know how our brushless motors work as well Martin ๐Ÿ‘ Giant
    versions
    must be driving HMS Queen Elizabeth and the T-45s. ๐Ÿ˜Ž
    5 months ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Motor reversing
    Thanks for the link Fred๐Ÿ‘ First thread I looked at 'Submarines and 2.4GHz' is a timely warning! Read it and you will understand why I have a stock of 40MHz RXs from Standard to Pico
    versions
    . And why I bought all the 40Meg crystals I could find locally a few years ago. I also have two MC-10 40Meg transmitters plus the 40Meg job that came with my Southampton tug. Southampton is being converted to 2.4Gig leaving that TX free for my subs๐Ÿ˜Š Cheers, Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž http://www.theassociationofmodelsubmariners.com/t83-openlrs-and-2-4-ghz-and-submarines BTW: I think this should be a good source of 40Meg sets, tailored to submarine use๐Ÿ˜Š, for some time to come. This guy is a specialist who does ONLY sub stuff. https://engel-modellbau.eu/shop/en/home/
    5 months ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Help identify
    Hi Sidley, Glad I could help resolve the mystery ๐Ÿ˜Š Clue was the most unusual structure of the foredeck. I'm pretty certain that this 'one off' never ever wore the number 1258! I've not seen any other
    versions
    with this foredeck structure. Which of course doesn't necessarily mean they didn't exist! I can only assume that the model builder used the Pennant number 1258 from sheer nostalgia for a boat he may have served on, but 1258 sure wasn't built like the model you have. Whatever, have great fun sailing her, post some pics / videos when she's finished please ๐Ÿ‘ All the best, Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž
    6 months ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Battery backup
    Hey! Thought you hitting the sack? What happened? Sack hit back? ๐Ÿค•๐Ÿ˜‰ Yep, on the LiPo
    versions
    (like mine) you can set the threshold for 2.7V upwards. Didn't know there were also NiMh
    versions
    . But then - I haven't looked! The primary function of these cheap little gadgets is a quick rough indication of the battery voltage, and the individual cell voltages. It's only a rough guide - Go / No Go for another run so to speak. My comparative measurements using a mains Lab voltmeter showed considerable discrepancy so I'm not sure I'd rely on it as an alarm. OTOH; if it works for your aircraft - Why not? I agree, LiPo conversion is the way. I've tried my best here but some folks are still afraid of LiPos. I have tried to explain that if you buy quality not cheapest you can find and follow the rules there shouldn't be any problem. I admit I still have some NiMh which I use together with ESCs which are not 'LiPo safe'; i.e. they do not have the built in cut off function (or throttle limiter on some hi end
    versions
    ) designed for use with LiPos. So far I have ONLY seen this function for LiPos. Coming up to midnight up here so it's my turn to 'hit the sack', G'night all. Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž ๐Ÿ’ค๐Ÿ’ค PS I get RX Low battery warning on the TX display! ๐Ÿ˜‰
    6 months ago by RNinMunich
    Response
    Re: (Naval Ship) HMS Belfast
    Hi Doug. I have a half built Graupner Taucher Wulf in my โ€œstashโ€ of kits. I put it away to come back to later. That kit, like your Premium Line warships, is a little disappointing. The hull is fiberglass, and some of the fittings are ok, but the instructions are horrid. Iโ€™m an accomplished modeler, but donโ€™t make me guess where to drill for the rudder post!!! Things like that. Iโ€™ve built 3 Micro Magicโ€™s, all race
    versions
    , the first was an original German kit, the last two are from later, when Graupner reorganized. If I hadnโ€™t built the original kit first, I would have a heck of a time building the other two. Now, to Graupner credit, the last MM I built seemed to be a little better than the second, and all three sail well. I just wish Graupner would do a little better job on their manuals, and quality control. Krick has done a fine job with the RO-Marin kits, hope they keep it up. Part of the reason I like German kit manufacturers so much is a bit of nostalgia, I was stationed at Ramstein AB from 1988 to 1992, I have fond memories of building kits from Robbe, Graupner and Krick when I was stationed there. Anyhow, back to the new Graupner kits...I feel your pain.
    7 months ago by Cashrc
    Forum
    Look for a simple balsa build
    Having owned a laser cutter for nearly 10 years , I have found that most old hand drawn plans are inaccurate and a lot of the old die cut kit parts are not only inaccurate but in most cases the bulkheads for instance are asymmetrical. When making a model you have to first correct the bulkheads etc (not difficult using Corel) and then cut a prototype to determine what further errors there are. Back to the drawing board to correct those, and then a further test cut etc. In the early days it would take about 6
    versions
    to correct all the errors , but with experience have now whittled it down to about 3 as areas likely to have errors can be anticipated. There is also the difficulty of for instance "3mm" thick material that can vary from about 2.7mm to 3.4mm and that can mean parts don't fit. Having said that I have cut most of the EezEbilt models from the site and the errors are minor besides being balsa they are easy to correct especially using water-resistant quick drying PVA glue. With enlarged
    versions
    you have to correct the slots etc so its easy enough to check on Corel for any inaccuracies. (That is one of the beauties of digital plans - you can produce a model at any size you choose). Most Lasers use dxf CAD files which Corel converts for you either way importing or exporting. One of the drawbacks my partner and I see is that in CAD drawings a curve is represented by a large number of straight lines which makes for a very large file. In Corel a curve is simply a curve and hence a much smaller file. PDF files are very problematic for most modellers as for instance two files imported from the same source can vary in size dramatically and you then have parts that don't match. The same applies to printing pdf plans in parts on an A4 printer - the pages very often don't line up. JPG files are much less of a problem as sizes go. My personal feeling is that the mismatch of parts is probably due to the use of pdf files with their associated problems. Some printers unfortunately do not allow you to adjust sizes other than in a rudimentary fashion.
    8 months ago by redpmg


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