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PS Enterprise

This model is intended to be used to carry camera such as a go pro. my current camera vessel is a barge and I can't turn the barge without it looking bad on so I wanted a vessel that can move under its own power but not too fast. The model is 1/20 and will have 2 paddles wheels, one on each side. This particular vessel is currently in Canberra NSW but it used to operate in Uchuka NSW.

5 years ago by rcmodelboats

Forum

LED Lighting tip

Hi Martin, There's a saying over here amongst ship model builders, which translated means "Ship modellers will collect and save anything that won't start to stink after a few days!"😉 I do the same as you with old recorders, PCs, dead garden solar lamps etc etc. Great sources for motors, LEDs, power supplies, fans, connectors, ribbon cables, cogs n pulleys ..... I also browse around the flea markets here; great sources for odd bits n pieces. Have found boxes of assorted cog wheels and pulleys, once even a whole tray of miniature 5V relays. Which I used for a home made controllable switchboard in my destroyer. See pics! Carry on recycling👍 Cheers, Doug

5 years ago by RNinMunich

Forum

Motor, speed controller

All got off ebay. The drone boys use this sort of thing extensively. Go there and google the items below. I have added approximate current prices - but I can recall getting some items considerably cheaper.... FPV Mini Digital Camera - about £6 Eachine RC832 Boscam 5.8G 48CH FPV Receiver Combo - 5.8Ghz Tx and Rx - about £14.80 7 inch Professional FPV Aerial Photography Monitor For Ground Station - about £17.50 FPV-Pro-DVR-Mini--Audio-Recorder - about £11.30 Plastic-FPV-PT-Pan-Tilt-Camera-Platform - 99p! I also got an extra stick - about £10, a nice plastic box - about £25(!), and various connectors, switches, etc. The box contains a gel battery for the , which can power the main R/C transmitter down the connector line - that's what the buttons and voltmeter on the panel are for... Note that the transmitter runs hot - most of them seem to - which is fine on a drone, but thermal control needs some consideration on a boat. You can see a little heat-sink that I added.... P.S. Oh, and you'll need to arrange a 180 deg servo for the panning... P.P.S. You might want to consider a clover-leaf aerial. That enables what they call 'circular polarity' transmission, which is really useful for drones when the transmitting aerial is performing contortions in the air. For boats, a vertical aerial pumping out vertically-polarised waves may suffer from 'bounce' off the water surface, which turns the reflected waves horizontal. But these are very cheap anyway, and can be experimented with - a bit like different propellers...

5 years ago by DodgyGeezer

Blog

Fairmount Alpine - TUG!

I have to admit I'm a bit of a novice and tend to work on my own a lot, although I have looked at build s on YouTube. I often wonder about the best time to paint the various bits as it seems some will be difficult to do later. So I painted the guard rail uprights and glued them in... then clamped the painted guard rails (proper names?) then started adding the hull sides, glued, clamped, and pinned where necessary. Size comparison picture with tug Annabelle (Billings Banckert) Fairmount is 1:75 scale, Banckert is 1:48

6 years ago by Harvey Kitten

Response

Friday's Child Fairey Huntsman 31

Hi Stuart, At 23" your Huntsman is only a tad smaller than my 24" Sea Scout which I refurbished last year, look for the build blog 'Jessica - A Sea Scout restoration' on this site. I fitted a 1000kV 28mm Propdrive motor and Quicrun 16BL30 30A ESC from Hobbywing. including the ESC programming card the whole kit an' caboodle was just under 40 dollars from Hobbyking.com. With a 2S LiPo (7.4V) performance was sedate to adequate. With a 3S LiPo performance is 'twinkling' and a lot of fun to drive. Check out attached links. Pt1: https://youtu.be/zPgYicA0yGw First run with a 3S LiPo. Pt2: https://youtu.be/oMUlSOaAREM 'The competition'! Pt3: https://youtu.be/b0BWJ3duzDw 'Final run', the Bier was getting warm Prop is a brass 30mm 3 blade from Raboesch. Hope this helps, Happy Sailing. Cheers, Doug 😎 PS is in HD 1080p, taken at the Ostpark Lake in Munich (adjacent to the Biergarten😉😁) May 2018.

5 years ago by RNinMunich

Forum

Help identifying

appears to have been taken at Fleetwood boating lake.

5 years ago by Wingcoax

Response

Cooling the motor - an experiment.

That looks great, pretty cool 😎 and nicely done. I cannot wait to see the finished boat. Also some of her on her maiden run. Keep up the great work.👍👍

5 years ago by BOATSHED

Forum

Slightly confused newbie

Q.E.D. 😊👍 That's the main thing - whatever you do or how you do it - Enjoy it!! Apropos Normal or Reverse at the TX:- Terry is quite right. 👍 If I remember my history correctly the Reversing function was originally added many years ago mainly to accommodate the 'fly boys'. It made reversing servos very simple when the confined installation space made mechanical reversing very difficult or downright impossible. For ailerons in thin wings for example. Have fun with your boat JB, and don't forget to put her in your harbour with some pics / . All the best, Doug 😎

5 years ago by RNinMunich

Media

MV Ionia

A from Hubertus taken onboard the Camera barge

5 years ago by rcmodelboats

Forum

Receiver aerial

You're talking about using one of these? https://www.rcworld.co.uk/acatalog/2-4Ghz-400mm-Extended-Aerial-Pair-P_RA2_4G_400.html or on ebay... https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/Futaba-2-4ghz-400mm-Extended-RX-Aerial/1504309322 So long as these are the advised spec by the manufacturer, why worry about the impedance? You might be interested in this discussion I had a little while ago on the Single Channel site about replacing 2.4Ghz aerials - points Martin made include: "......I tested all my detachable 2.4 GHz antennas and found quite a wide range of frequencies they were best tuned for, ranging from about 2.1 to 2.6 GHz - but they all work fine and have pretty good SWRs at the 2.45 GHz point. What was more interesting was testing various antennae that I've received for various pieces of kit over the years that run at 433 MHz, 5.8 GHz and the GPS frequencies of 1.2 and 1.6 GHz. Many of these are just 2.4 GHz antennas - I even have one that is labelled 433 MHz, but is really a 2.4 GHz and quite useless at 433 MHz!......." ".....It is important to realize that all the coax cables we use (all relatively light and thin) are all quite lossy at 2.4 GHz, so you shouldn't make the non-transmitting (intact cable) part any longer than it needs to be. if you have a foot or two of coax feeding the active part of the antenna (the modified bit at the end) then you can easily lose half of the available signal....." http://mode-zero.uk/viewtopic.php?f=52&t=389 I would also add that polarisation may become important when you have an aerial close to a horizontal reflective plane like a lake. I suspect that you might get a lot of the signal coming at you horizontally polarised, which a vertically mounted aerial won't like. For output from a boat I've been using the circular polarised aerials that the drone operators use in an attempt to maintain signal at distance - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-4GHz-Circular-Polarized-clover-leaf-Antenna-set-with-short-connector-RP-SMA/253889968333?hash=item3b1d0578cd:g:YkEAAOSw5LZcZF3Y:rk:3:pf:0

5 years ago by DodgyGeezer

Forum

Richardson/Southampton Smoke Generator

Morning Pete, I'm so glad you found out where to put smoking liquid. 👍 Especially where to put it! when you have the Tug smoking make a ! We would all like to see her smoking! Now all she needs is her lights! But that's a different project.... PS. When you use the smoker. Don't let it dry out. You'll burn the coil! Just keep track of it! And have fun!!!😊

5 years ago by figtree7nts

Response

Tug Brooklyn!

Nice boat and ,dancing with joy when it all comes together tends to make the camera move around 😂👍

5 years ago by marky

Response

FREDERICK SPASHETT

Very nice !👍 Water a bit choppy!

5 years ago by figtree7nts

Forum

Slightly confused newbie

John, I followed the exactly, using ch.3 instead of the ch.2 recommended with the radio gear, but then I could not get response from the esc. Mine is a 25amp; would that make any difference? I then switched it back to ch.2 (having already reversed the motor leads) and ran the setup again. The throttle now runs in the right direction, but if I switch the trim to normal, the motor runs at full speed forward. Switching it back to reverse, it functions normally. What am I doing wrong??

5 years ago by J Barry

Blog

Ram48 Sound Generator - Cont!

Captain's Log: Today I installed the RAM48! It works OK for a Sound Generator! Take a look at the Gallery. For a Test of the Steam Engine Sound Generator! Or take a look here! https://youtu.be/LHcmt44yMvI

5 years ago by figtree7nts

Forum

Mtronics W-tail marine mixer connections.

Its really quite simple modern radio systems are computerised so you can do all the mixing you want from the transmitter. No need to buy mixers for the receiver end. Setting things up the first time you do it is confusing I agree but once you have a grip on things it becomes more simple. The good thing about using a modern system is that you can change things on the fly and even have different mixes selectable on the same model and change while your sailing. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yq_H9vzCz8g there is a so you can see what I am talking about.

5 years ago by Haverlock

Forum

Uploading pics

I've been given a very smart camera will do as well as stills. Too clever for me by half. It has disc to load into my comp to enable all sorts of things like loading film from the camera. Also has a chip/ memory card. what i want to do is upload pics from the mem card without loading the disc? Is this possible?👍

5 years ago by onetenor

Forum

RC steam lever

Hi Gary Yes I watched the s great work . I only have a small boiler but should get about 15 mins. run time and yes I'm hoping the eyes hold up the good thing is I can take my time at it. The slide valve timing may be another issue I will have to learn. Will keep you up to date when the engine comes in . Rick

5 years ago by Newby7

Forum

RC steam lever

Hi Rick, did you clock the two s Danish steam I put on the section?

5 years ago by GaryLC

Response

Danish Steam.

Hello Tica, and very nice to make your acquaintance, and I very much appreciate your comment. I think the two clips posted are quite incredible, and very much admire the skills of the builders and the finely detailed finish on both boats. I rather wish we had more steam enthusiasts in this country, but I am afraid it is nearly all electric motors more is the pity. Regards to yourself and Bernhard definitely the king of fine detail. Gary.

5 years ago by GaryLC

Media

Danish Steam.

Another youtube offering, and also Danish as per the last . A very neat steam engine installation of a twin cylinder slide valve, in an open hardwood boat. The three figures on board are to a very high standard and dressed very much the same as the last . it would seem besides bacon, Denmark is the place to find one's authentic boat crew.

5 years ago by GaryLC

Forum

RC steam lever

Hi Rick, I have just posted a bit of on here which I found very interesting, mainly due to the fine detail of the two figures in the boat, and the fact they are animated via servos. The stuff in the boat has to be seen to be believed, from a Bulldog to a shotgun and tools and stuff everywhere. Very very realistic, and steam beats electric motors every time, welcome to the club. Regards, Gary.

5 years ago by GaryLC

Blog

Test

Today I did a full test of current smoker build, it went very well, nice consistent smoke, very visible. I used just straight a mineral Oil, type sold in Pharmacies. I chose not to use the baby oil again because it had too much of an odor. See attached. I ran it for one hour, it stays consistent and there was no build up of heat, tin stayed cool. Check of the heating element and wick showed no damage, no build up of any kind, very clean. When I get a chance, I will put a multimeter on it and test the draw so I can fuse it properly. Thanks for you interest. Joe

5 years ago by Joe727

Blog

Model Smoker Build

Hello, Yesterday, I showed a Model Smoker that I built, I have had requests to share details. This blog will walk you through what I did. Please note that this was built from ideas gathered from the web, I did not invent this. Also, anything that has voltage and anything that creates heat can be a hazard, I am not responsible for any damage caused. Again, just sharing information. First, I researched the web and saw how others made a smoker, then I just wanted to cobble together one mainly from parts I have. You can see this on a variety of searches and s. First, Collected parts required. 1. Thrift store hair dryer 2. Wick lamp or Tiki torch, or similar wick 3. Wire crimps 4. 18 GA wire 5. Box, enclosure, container 6. 5v -12v fan, direction pushes air into box. 7. Foil, had copper sheet of aluminum foil 8. Adhesive, used CA 9. Mint tin or other Since I did not photograph the original, I will put together some build steps and sketches. More to come, see photos for parts used. Joe

5 years ago by Joe727

Blog

Cabin detail part 6 panel light

Cabin detail part 6 panel light The panel light presented a difficult challenge in that I assume the real one has a tubular light fitting in it, difficult in 1/12 scale. However, creating the tube assembly was not difficult using some annealed 1/8” brass tube and making a bending jig, (simply a 1/8 grove milled using a ball ended slot drill into a piece of hardwood I formed the tube into the required shape. I used the back of the jig to hold the piece while I filled the tube half way through along it top inside edge @ 45 degrees this is where the LED tube will fit. The LED tube is from one of the new type LED garden light bulb that use a small solar panel to illuminate it during the during dark hours. Smashing the bulb leaves 4 filaments which can be used independently, these are very delicate and need the wires attaching very carefully finally feeding it into the brass tube and then after all this fiddling, if it still lights, epoxy it in place. The next job is to make some brackets to fix it to the instrument panel. The bracket was made from 1/8” bore tube and some 0.010” brass shim I drilled some holes in the sheet prior to cutting to size, this was done using only a 1/8” dia centre drill and then enlarged with a clock makers reamer until the tube fitted snugly through this was then soft soldered in place. The whole unit was then epoxied in place on the instrument panel. All the wiring for the panel LEDs can now be completed ready for connection to the random flashing circuit board. (this came as a kit for just £3:90) The circuit board is fastened to the panel with a sub-board made from a scrap piece of ply with PCB supporting pillars in the corners, when this is completed I will post a of it working. The LEDs on the circuit board are only for testing and will be replaced with the panel LEDs.

5 years ago by mturpin013

Response

Fan Surround

Michael, Thank you for your interest and the questions, I appreciate it. 1. With regard to the rubber stopper, good question. I have not done a lengthy test as yet, but will do. My thinking was that it would not effect the rubber as heat generated seems to be concentrated on the oil. I like the idea of a a metal cap, you have given me an idea, I have some small plumbing pieces that may work. it would be good to eliminate all flammable materials! 2. Varying the smoker with the engine speed has not been one of my goals, here is my thinking. I plan to use this unit on a steam tug, steam boilers seem to put out a constant smoke as the burning does not vary on a steam engine, the steam is just regulated. Hence, I have not done this, many commercial units offer this. I recently purchased a commercial unit for over $100 USD and was not happy with the output, that is why I started this build. From my you can see how the smoke shoots out. I wanted to slow it down so it just puffs. I have experimented with lowering the fan voltage, but it cuts out below 3 volts. The attached sketch shows my experimenting with allowing some of the air from the fan to npbe redirected out. The tin that I soldered up is shown, took a lot of effort, did not work as planned. I did like the fact that it looked like a whiskey still. 3. Yes, there are smaller fans available on line. I was just using some salvage ones I had - 28mm square. I may experiment with some small fans if budget allows. I am now retired and counting pennies... More on the puffing aspect to come... Joe

5 years ago by Joe727

Response

Sea Trials and mods.

I have just been watching your again of your Crash Tender on the water. I do have a couple more questions, first is what motor is in her and second is she going full throttle on the water or not. Sorry to be nosey.

5 years ago by BOATSHED

Blog

Rubber stopper wick & element

In the previous post in the , note that a black rubber stopper is inserted into a brass tube soldered to the tin container. Starting with the element again, select proper length of heater wire by applying voltage to lengths as show previous. Crimped wire to one end. Next photo shows a rubber stopper, I use my drill press to drill to straight holes to allow the voltage supply wire to pass through it. Then I put together a wick with a brass rod (1/16") to provide support and to secure it to the stopper. Brass rod with wick is pushed thru the stopper, drill a pilot hole for the brass rod centered in the stopper. See photos, the supply wires will come thru the stopper at each side of the wick. Put one wire through the stopper, then I wrapped the heating element around the wick. This is tricky and took several attempts to get it done cleanly. The supply wire for the end is then fed back through the stopper. This is a weak part of the design as it must run back to the stopper without touching the heater element. it does work, but I will try to improve on this. This entire assembly fits into the tin can and is the correct length to just submerge the bottom portion of the wick and not the wires. I forgot to do a sketch showing a section through this, but will try tomorrow. Joe

5 years ago by Joe727

Forum

Fairmile D 1/24 Scale Build

Sakibian, My friend Graham built his E-boat with a fibreglass hull but scratch-built everything else. He does magnificent detail work. For you to build this hull you first need to get the plans to the scale you want to build. 1/24 is good for these models. The cross sections are essential. You need to determine how many bulkhead frames you will require. You won't require as many as shown on their plan and photos - maybe less than half - as many as will enable you to support the stringers to give you a shape of the hull on to which you can fix the planking or skin. The frames you choose need to be at or very close to cross sections, so you can use them to mark and cut your frames. I use 5mm plywood. There is a photo of my Fairmile D frame earlier in this series of posts. One of my earliest posts on this website was a Youtube with the E-boat and my Fairmile D in action with sound effects.

5 years ago by reilly4

Forum

Fairmile D 1/24 Scale Build

"........Regards, Doug 😎 BTW: still waiting for the pics / s of your 'Hooben' (?) and the Perkasa...." That reminds me - how are you coming along with the Taycol Board tests? And the modified circuit? I remain interested to see what you have done. Have I missed the post? ".........Do those boards follow the circuit diagrams on the Taycol web site? I seem to remember that you said you had 'refined them slightly'? Hi Dodgy, The board for Colin's Supermarine yes. After I modified my original version when I discovered excessive heating effects during initial trials. The 'little ones' I made for my Taycol Target no, not quite! Will publish details, with wiring diagrams and test results, in the relevant blogs shortly. Cheers, Doug 😎..........."

5 years ago by DodgyGeezer

Forum

Fairmile D 1/24 Scale Build

Hi John, You seem to have missed the point entirely, as you also did with your first post on this thread, in which instead of trying to help Andy and answer his question you attempt to dissuade him from his goal. Unfortunately I missed Andy's question back in March as I was embroiled with family matters. BUT, if he hasn't in the meantime been 'scared off' by the lack of constructive response I will do my best to help, having several times been down the road of multiple screws, as have many other better constructors than me on this site. Nearly all my ships have two, three or even four screws. Only the Sea Scout and ancient Billing Boats fish cutter (a restoration and conversion from static to RC project) have single screws - as per originals. About a year ago I acquired a model of a US Elco PTB fitted with two shafts. I am restoring it, rebuilding as Kennedy's PT109, and will fit the third shaft to complete it to scale as per original. Why? Because that's what scale modelling is about and because it's a challenge - pushing limits. Far be it from me to decry or put down anyone (as you now seem to be trying with me). We all have the enthusiasm (or we wouldn't be here) and do the best we can with the skills nature gave us and what the budget and state of health allows. I have often been astounded and appropriately applauded, and supported where I can, what fellow members have achieved with very limited resources and under very different circumstances from those we in the so called 'Western World' enjoy. That guy in Bangladesh blows my mind with what he manages in the back of beyond! Look for his post about his March '71 boats. WHEN I pitch in here I try to do so with constructive assistance, drawn from my own modelling experience and a lifetime spent working with navies and shipyards, to help a guy achieve his aims and dreams. NOT to immediately deflate him by saying 'Why do that? I did mine this way, it's not what you want but it works for me'. So far the Likes, PMs and mail feedback, request for assisitance I have tell me I'm doing something right. if I do boob (we're all human) I'm prepared to admit it and make amends / corrections. I have no idea what this 'Hooben' is that you yatter on about BUT - if "every little detail (is) reproduced with superb accuracy" why then ruin the overall effect by not continuing this attention to detail on the underwater ship and fitting shafts and screws appropriately? Whatever you do have fun with it, but don't dissuade others from pursuing their dreams. True there are "many roads to travel before one reaches there (!sic) destination" BUT as Confucius said "Every journey begins with the first step." if at the first step someone says 'Your destination is the wrong one' instead of offering a roadmap ..... ! Regards, Doug 😎 BTW: still waiting for the pics / s of your 'Hooben' (?) and the Perkasa.

5 years ago by RNinMunich

Response

Holy SMOKE !! , Tin Can Madness

BTW: I grew up with valves (or bottles as we Brits also call 'em) as well. I still have a box of several vintage 'bottles' in the cellar, many of them new still in the original boxes. if you ever run out of triodes, pentodes or tetrodes give me a buzz! Think I still have some pristine EL80s - collectors items these days - lots of Oomph 😁 My next non-model boat electronic project is a pair of digital clocks in 'Art Deco' cases, using bottle decade counters. The forerunners of the fluorescent tubes and then the LED clocks, but much more fun😉. About forty years ago I spent a year or so servicing and calibrating the radiation monitors around UK nuke power plants using these decade counters. One cosmic radiation click = one jump in the base counter and so on. Never ever saw anything above the basic cosmic radiation background count which is always there. A remnant of the 'Big Bang'. 😲 Funny where an interest in electronics and radio can getcha 😁 Look forward to your chimney experiment report👍 My destroyer has two funnels but I found that the little railway smokers were not man enough to feed two funnels via a branched tube. But two working in parallel off the one RC channel did the trick. Regarding the chimney effect; Works well at rest or at low speeds, but I also found that instead of a fan some traditional air vent scoops mounted forward of the smoker augmented the effect well at higher speeds. And my long thin destroyer with 2 x 540s on 12V made a lot of 'speed boats' look silly 😁 Have fun, ciao, Doug 😎

5 years ago by RNinMunich

Response

Holy SMOKE !! , Tin Can Madness

Hi Joe 👍 In the full size ships I worked on we used Co2 injectors to smother fires in our equipment racks! Guess you could try the Co2 capsules for soda siphons. I have a box of those I 'm considering using for torpedo power! Carry on innovating Man👍 Cheers, Doug 😎

5 years ago by RNinMunich

Response

Holy SMOKE !! , Tin Can Madness

Doug, That's a very impressive list of ships! I was just thinking yesterday about how to build a smoker without a fan, your chimney effect caught my attention. My experimental builds so far push the smoke out quickly, I would prefer it puffing out. Deleting the fan and adding the proper length of stack could work, I will try. Your electronics are impressive, nice skills you have. I'm still working with vacuum tubes, valves. Regards, Joe

5 years ago by Joe727

Response

Holy SMOKE !! , Tin Can Madness

Doug, Yes, thanks for clarifying the Vision, sound good. I think I will add a monoammonium phosphate fire extinguisher system to mine so I can just keep on sailing. Regards, Joe

5 years ago by Joe727

Response

Holy SMOKE !! , Tin Can Madness

Hi Joe, "If an alarm was used, you still need to get it back to shore before it .........." That's why I suggested a circuit to cut off the power to the heating coil. An alarm is only useful if you are 'hanging around on the spot' to do something about it! 😲 Do you have 'the Vision' now? 😉 PS That's also why I made the decoder to make mine RC.

5 years ago by RNinMunich

Response

Holy SMOKE !! , Tin Can Madness

Hi Joe, When you click on the Media File icon have you ever noticed the [Download] button in the top left corner of the media window!!?? 😲 Click on that and you are given the choice to Open or Download the file 😉 BTW: to answer your question above - No scale railway at all! I intend to use the loco smokers in RC conversions of 1/350 scale plastic navy ships, such as; HMSs Ark Royal, Colossus, King George Fifth, Prince of Wales, Exeter, and KMSs Bismarck and Graf Zeppelin. As well as RMS Titanic and my 1/128 HMS Belfast and Graf Spee. Two more perhaps for my Southampton tug. Have used them in the dim and distant past for my 1/72 scale RN destroyer. Built a little RC pulse decoder using CMOS chips followed by a transistor driver to switch a relay supplying the smoker coil. See pics of self etched decoder board. The other three outputs are for various lighting effects and destroyer 'Whoop whoop' siren. 30 years old now and still going 😊 The smokers work pretty well just using the capillary action of the thin glass feeder tubes. So no wick to come into contact with a a hot wire coil 😊 They were mounted on a bridge across the cap of a large spray can which I used as the oil tank. Exhaust used the chimney effect of a 10mm alu tube running up the funnel. I'm also still pondering how to turn the usual white steam/smoke black! Cheers, Doug 😎

5 years ago by RNinMunich

Response

Holy SMOKE !! , Tin Can Madness

Did the work for you guys? I still can't see it.... Joe

5 years ago by Joe727

Response

Holy SMOKE !! , Tin Can Madness

Michael, Anything can be done but I strive to keep things simple. Like a dipstick for level and fuses to protect the electronics from getting out of control. I generally end up with double fuse protection as well. Best to just get in the habit of keeping an eye on things. The fluid drain is very slow so I don't foresee a real issue with that. If an alarm was used, you still need to get it back to shore before it .......... Cheers, Joe

5 years ago by Joe727

Response

Holy SMOKE !! , Tin Can Madness

Yep Michael, A thermocouple, a capacitive level sensor, an OR Gate, and a transistor driver for a cut-off relay. Calibration and setting the threshold limits are the tricky bits 🤔 😎

5 years ago by RNinMunich

Response

Holy SMOKE !! , Tin Can Madness

Great result , well done that man, is there any way of putting an electronic safety device to protects against overheating/lack of fluid etc.

5 years ago by mturpin013

Response

Motor, mount & prop-shaft.

Thanks for your reply. I am more of a speed freak. I love the Vosper /MTB's style hulls as you can really push them to there limits, as I can also with the deep V huntsman style hulls. My Proboat Miss Geico catamaran I can run flat out even on turns. But am unsure about fitting an out runner, I have scaled down the Crash Tender to 28" and have just put in a small outrunner but very apprehensive of running her. This is because i'm unsure of overheating and catching fire. Silly rally as she is a fireboat. But as you have one in your Crash Tender with no problems, then I will finish her off and give her a run. Thanks for your help. I am watching this build as eagerly as I did your wonderful Crash Tender. I cannot wait to see the en result and some of her on water. I'm sad I wasn't able to get along to the show this weekend.

5 years ago by BOATSHED

Response

Holy SMOKE !! , Tin Can Madness

One more thing, I did not try just straight Baby Oil, will try that later... Joe

5 years ago by Joe727

Response

Holy SMOKE !! , Tin Can Madness

Thanks, did the PLAY? it's not showing up on my end. For smoke fluid, I used some Baby Oil (mineral oil), and some glycerin. Using an eyedropper I used about 5 eyedropper of baby oil and 1 of glycerin. 5 to 1. The Glycerin was purchase from a store that sells cake decorating, it's used in icing, in the states, Michaels, Hobby Lobby, Walmart, etc. I would think that pharmacies would have as well. The baby oil is Johnson's. Thanks for the comments, Joe

5 years ago by Joe727

Response

Holy SMOKE !! , Tin Can Madness

Great success Joe, What are you using for fuel?

5 years ago by figtree7nts

Blog

Holy SMOKE !! , Tin Can Madness

Hello, Experiment with a tin can smoker works great, see ! I will have to sketch this one up so it's clear on what the pieces are. Uses a little cpu squirrel type fan, two brass tubes, a rubber stopper and a wick. Could not wait to test, will add detail. Had to shoot this under a bathroom exhaust fan to avoid potentially setting off smoke alarms. it works! Joe

5 years ago by Joe727

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Sea Trials and mods.

Wow Robbob, I have just seen the of your Crash Tender. She is amazing. Looks great on the water. I just love the way these hulls sit on the water. Virtually no roll at all, it's as if they are glued to the waters surface. The Aerokits Crash Tender was my very first boat back int 1959, it was my 9th birthday present and my father and I started to a build. But he wasn't happy about building the original kit straight outright. As our first ever build, he brought home broken down tea chests and orange boxes and he got me to draw round all the parts and he went on to cut each piece out with a nice new fretsaw. So as the first one went together and it seemed to go well then the Aerokits one followed on. He then bought me a ED Hunter 3.46cc Diesel engine for my Christmas present that year. I say he I should say my parents both bought them for me. Sadly I never got to have radio control in it. I was weird as we went on to build another five in all. One was given to my younger brother, his had a Taycol Standard in it, and I had the job of taking the accumulator to the local model shop to have it charged up as we never had a charger for it. I think they used to charge something like a shilling each time it was done. The other five that we built he actually gave away to friends and one even went to the milkman. I still have a 34 and a 46 inch still new in boxes. The 34" is an original that Was Released in 1994 by Aerokits on the 50th Anniversary and the 46" is a VMW kit. I have a 46" to refurbish and have scaled one down and built a 28" in Balsa wood. As well as a 46" PT 109 with a 26cc in her that also sits on the water the same way. Sorry to waffle on it just brings back old memories. I'll leave it there. I just love your Build such detail.

5 years ago by BOATSHED

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HMS BRAVE BORDERER

Hi Canabus, Do you have before and after photos as this sounds intriguing? A would also be helpful if you have one. Thanks Rowen

5 years ago by Rowen

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Sea Queen

Wow great bit of , she performs very well on the water and turns seem to be very stable. Nice one. I have a Sea Queen I have got to renovate. What motor are you running in her please.

5 years ago by BOATSHED

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Fast Patrol Boat

How does the coupling work, as it looks to be a flexi coupling. There also looks like you have a wooden support under the motor? With the torque on brushless motors will it not wave about? I look forward to seeing her on the water, hope you do a bit of of her.

5 years ago by BOATSHED