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    Forum
    LiPo batteries
    Please can I get some advice on LiPo batteries. I intend to buy a 3300-5000mAh battery to run an offshore power boat model. I will be taking the battery with me to Hungary to use on my local river which I have found is ok as hand luggage properly protected from short circuit. My problem is that at present, I only go there three time a year so the battery would remain unused for 4 months at a time. If I leave the battery with a safety charge, will it last for four months unused or will it fall below the critical
    voltage
    . If it is felt that it will not hold the charge, I will have to carry it with me forward and back. Thanks.😊
    1 year ago by MouldBuilder
    Forum
    Anteo 2 Tug
    Alternatively, pick a sensible master
    voltage
    for the boat, and use step-up/down converters to provide auxiliary
    voltage
    s for other purposes? They provide efficiency in the 90% range, and power of about 5A for a couple of quid. I have been doing this to get radar dishes to rotate at precisely the speeds I want....
    4 months ago by DodgyGeezer
    Response
    The motor cover.
    I know exactly what you mean, it's do-able but there's not enough room inside the box for a miniature fan, I could mount it externally on the forward vertical face of the box over another opening and I'd need to derive a 12v dc
    voltage
    to drive it as well. All of which would spoil the apperarance and add to the complexity. it would seem logical for the motor to turn it's own cooling fan 😜
    4 months ago by robbob
    Blog
    Engine Room Refit Completed!
    Captain's Log: Tug Brooklyn is now a 6 volt Model! There’s actually no difference except for the
    voltage
    drop. I have tested the new 6 volt motor and her new 6 volt smoker. All is a go! Patiently waiting for Spring!😎
    5 months ago by figtree7nts
    Blog
    Model Smoker Build
    Hello, Yesterday, I showed a Model Smoker that I built, I have had requests to share details. This blog will walk you through what I did. Please note that this was built from ideas gathered from the web, I did not invent this. Also, anything that has
    voltage
    and anything that creates heat can be a hazard, I am not responsible for any damage caused. Again, just sharing information. First, I researched the web and saw how others made a smoker, then I just wanted to cobble together one mainly from parts I have. You can see this on a variety of searches and videos. First, Collected parts required. 1. Thrift store hair dryer 2. Wick lamp or Tiki torch, or similar wick 3. Wire crimps 4. 18 GA wire 5. Box, enclosure, container 6. 5v -12v fan, direction pushes air into box. 7. Foil, had copper sheet of aluminum foil 8. Adhesive, used CA 9. Mint tin or other Since I did not photograph the original, I will put together some build steps and sketches. More to come, see photos for parts used. Joe
    5 months ago by Joe727
    Forum
    Lidl disk sander
    Pity they don’t have a multi
    voltage
    version for the US market.
    5 months ago by ChrisR
    Response
    Fan Surround
    Michael, Thank you for your interest and the questions, I appreciate it. 1. With regard to the rubber stopper, good question. I have not done a lengthy test as yet, but will do. My thinking was that it would not effect the rubber as heat generated seems to be concentrated on the oil. I like the idea of a a metal cap, you have given me an idea, I have some small plumbing pieces that may work. it would be good to eliminate all flammable materials! 2. Varying the smoker with the engine speed has not been one of my goals, here is my thinking. I plan to use this unit on a steam tug, steam boilers seem to put out a constant smoke as the burning does not vary on a steam engine, the steam is just regulated. Hence, I have not done this, many commercial units offer this. I recently purchased a commercial unit for over $100 USD and was not happy with the output, that is why I started this build. From my video you can see how the smoke shoots out. I wanted to slow it down so it just puffs. I have experimented with lowering the fan
    voltage
    , but it cuts out below 3 volts. The attached sketch shows my experimenting with allowing some of the air from the fan to npbe redirected out. The tin that I soldered up is shown, took a lot of effort, did not work as planned. I did like the fact that it looked like a whiskey still. 3. Yes, there are smaller fans available on line. I was just using some salvage ones I had - 28mm square. I may experiment with some small fans if budget allows. I am now retired and counting pennies... More on the puffing aspect to come... Joe
    5 months ago by Joe727
    Response
    Fan Surround
    Joe I admire your persistence with this and it seems to have paid off. Each of your attempts has improved well done. I have a question - 1 - is there a chance that the rubber stopper being so close to the heating element could be damaged or melt the rubber? Have you considered a metal screw top, you can sometimes get a metal can with a screw cap, glue tins come to mind you could cut the end off and use the screw cap and just solder the end up. 2 - have you considered adjustable fan speed /element
    voltage
    to vary the amount of smoke according to engine speed. 3 - finally what about a smaller version, can you get smaller fans? just a thought, keep up the good work Michael
    5 months ago by mturpin013
    Blog
    Rubber stopper wick & element
    In the previous post in the video, note that a black rubber stopper is inserted into a brass tube soldered to the tin container. Starting with the element again, select proper length of heater wire by applying
    voltage
    to lengths as show previous. Crimped wire to one end. Next photo shows a rubber stopper, I use my drill press to drill to straight holes to allow the
    voltage
    supply wire to pass through it. Then I put together a wick with a brass rod (1/16") to provide support and to secure it to the stopper. Brass rod with wick is pushed thru the stopper, drill a pilot hole for the brass rod centered in the stopper. See photos, the supply wires will come thru the stopper at each side of the wick. Put one wire through the stopper, then I wrapped the heating element around the wick. This is tricky and took several attempts to get it done cleanly. The supply wire for the end is then fed back through the stopper. This is a weak part of the design as it must run back to the stopper without touching the heater element. it does work, but I will try to improve on this. This entire assembly fits into the tin can and is the correct length to just submerge the bottom portion of the wick and not the wires. I forgot to do a sketch showing a section through this, but will try tomorrow. Joe
    5 months ago by Joe727
    Media
    Modified Heng Long smoker unit
    This is a first try at a simpler quieter smoke unit. I used the smoker box/element off the Heng Long tank/car smoker unit with a 40x40 5v fan (the fan being
    voltage
    controlled by a 5v UBEC and the lot being run by a 2s Lipo (with a y splitter for the fan UBEC and the element using JST leads. Doesn't smoke that well as I had broken then repaired the element previously, but the other one I have smokes a lot better, and has a better type of element (possibly a newer version) Some photos etc on the smoker discussion. Unit is almost silent (the noise you hear is the camera and outside noise, as the window was open)
    6 months ago by jbkiwi
    Forum
    Smoke generator
    Have just made a prototype of a fan forced smoker which seems to be working well (despite breaking the heater coil by moving it while hot, - had it apart, broke wire, screw and washer repair, not quite as hot) I bought a couple of Heng Long smokers (for R/C tanks or cars) to play with, for $10 NZ each(or 5.3 Euros to you Northerners give or take a yen) from Bangood and just bought another from Ebay. There seem to be 2 different models, as one has a long coil with a lamp wick draped over it, which is sitting in the oil reservoir, the other has a small coil inside a piece of heat resistant woven tubing (as you might find insulating toaster/heater wiring etc) which acts as a wick and that also sits in cotton wool in the reservoir, (this seems to be the better of the two) Tip - don't fill the tank right up, only enough to soak the cotton, element should be just out of the oil. The wick loads the element. The better model seems to have a black top to the tank (also maybe either brown or black tank) and the other has a brown top and dirty brown tank. As with most of this stuff you won't know till you get it what it's going to be. What I did was remove the tank and cut off the pump tube just in front of the screw lugs (see black line in photo) then fitted the tank, and a 40x40x10 5v ESC fan (
    voltage
    controlled by a UBEC set to 5v on the jumpers) into a plastic electronics utility box from Jaycar (our local electronics and hobby store). I made up a double JST lead for the 2s 1800Mah Lipo and fired it up (using baby oil). it's pretty much silent and smokes well once it gets warmed up, ( starts smoking in about 5 seconds) You could control it (on/off volume) by either a remote on/off switch or perhaps a small cheap 10A brushed ESC. I would leave the fan running and control the element to avoid burning the element. The original pump tank inlet hole seems ok as is (approx 1.5mm) but you could enlarge it very slightly to get a better flow if you could find a better oil. At the electronics store they have proper smoke machine oil for $20 NZ per litre so I may have a look at that. The reason I went for the fan idea was that I found in std pump form, if I immersed a tube from the tank in water, it sucked water back into the tank. I was hoping it would pump smoke out of my HSL exhausts at water level alongside the cooling water but it would need a very light non return valve to do this. The fan seems to pump the smoke through 2mm ID silicone tube ok, so tubing of similar ID to the OD of the tank outlets should work well. These pumps in original form work pretty well for the price, and are cheap enough to keep a few for spare elements, the only thing is they are a bit noisy but in an 'engine sounding' way, (might add to the effect on a tug or work-boat though) What you have left after this mod is a very handy little geared motor with an eccentric output wheel which could be used for winches, radar and whirly bits of any description (see pic of motor leftover and original) To avoid burnout, these should be run on no more than a 2s (around 7.5v-(suggest 8v max with fan running) The other tank is going to work a lot better than this one but I'm not making a tug, just want a bit of exhaust smoke on start-up etc to go with the 2 sound units. Very cheap to make (around $25 NZ with pump, box, fan and UBEC all through Ebay, Aliexpress and Bangood (and local electronics store) if you wanted to run an ESC to control the smoke and you have no channels left to control it proportionally, you can always try using a second receiver bound to your TX, (if your TX will allow it,) power it and a brushed ESC (wired to the element) as normal and use the throttle channel to plug in your smoke control. This should work if you want more smoke as you accelerate or if you are using only 1 stick on a 2 stick TX you could use your 'elevator' stick pushed up (or a toggle switch if available) to start/stop the smoke (through the brushed ESC setup) . This setup weighs 100g (10g more than std) The quest for lots of smoke continues Will try to upload vid later and update progress.
    6 months ago by jbkiwi
    Forum
    All hooked up, nowt happens...
    Hi All I use the Hobbyking car ESC's HK-45A, HK-60A SL and HK-100A which all use the same program card(HK PROG-CARD). I use the same setup for all my boat, only changing the battery setting for the 2s, 3S and 4S Lipo. 1 Cutoff
    voltage
    for 3S=10.2 and 4S=13.6 2 Start Power Percent=5% 3 Advance Timing=4 4 Run Mode=2 5 Brake Force=1 6 Drag Brake Force=1 7 Neutral Range=1 8 initial Brake Force=1 9 Reverse Force=1 It works for me. Canabus
    6 months ago by canabus
    Response
    Internal wiring & bottom skins
    Hi Rob, the Police Launch is coming along nicely. I see that you have long leads from the battery to the ESC. The general rule is that these leads should be kept as short as possible to minimize
    voltage
    spikes caused by the fast switching currents and the inductance of the leads. Brushless ESC's have large capacitors, often visible at the end to absorb the transients. You may well get away with it but the life of the ESC could be reduced. Hope your Xmas goes well, Alan
    6 months ago by ukengineman
    Forum
    Proximity (Hall effect) sensor wiring
    I do not know how much knowledge of electronics your friend has but I need to point out that a hall effect sensor is not like a relay. While they do act like a switch ( sort of) they need to be powered and have a hall effect
    voltage
    to switch. This would mean in the use intended there would be a current drain on the sensor and if the power supply ( battery?)
    voltage
    fell to far it would not function. The effect you want could be replaced by a reed relay cheap and simple to use. However reed relays can only pass low currents so would need to be cascaded with a higher rated relay before switching the main battery supply on and off. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10-Pcs-2-5X14mm-3-Pin-4W-Glass-Reed-Relay-Magnetic-Switches-N-O-N-C-SPDT/372165424048?hash=item56a6c9b3b0:g:vgAAAOSwJtdaL2~p:rk:53:pf:0 these reed relays have both normally open and normally closed contacts and at a couple of quid for 10 worth buying so he can experiment.
    7 months ago by Haverlock
    Response
    aeronaut classic
    Hi Sandgrounder, Good stuff from Canabus BUT- If you are going to parallel connect batteries there are some safety rules to observe to prevent potential fires on board - ESPECIALLY IF USING TWO LiPos!! The two batteries must be identical types with the same capacity and state of charge. Otherwise the one with higher
    voltage
    will try to charge the other. This can result in high currents which represent a high fire risk - most especially with LiPo Power 😑 To prevent this you need a pair of high current blocking diodes between the batteries - fast Schottky diodes. If you are electronically minded this is easy to do yourself. If not, Component Shop market an Action Electronics module to do the job. Spec attached as PDF. Link to purchase is below You can buy the board here (No I don't have shares in the company but have used several A.E. modules and they are well made good qualityπŸ‘) https://www.componentshop.co.uk/p103-parallel-power-board.html I think 15 quid is a good price to protect the rest of your investment πŸ˜‰ Have fun, cheers, Doug 😎
    7 months ago by RNinMunich
    Response
    aeronaut classic
    Hi Sandgrounder There are a number of speed 400's with
    voltage
    range from 4.8 to 7.2 volts. The revs range is between 16,400 to 22,000 rpm. So 28mm brushless like a Prop Drive V2 2836- 1800kv(shaft 3.175mm) on a 3S Lipo battery with give you 19,980 rpm. ESC 45Amp. Prop 30-32mm 2 blade. If it's tight of battery space Hobbyking have small ones you can parallel together like the Turnigy 3S 1500mah 25C (73 x 33 x 27 mm). Regards Canabus
    7 months ago by canabus
    Forum
    fuse holder
    Hi all thank you all for advice and comments , I have had a good look at all the suggestion and decided to go for the 3m scotch suitcase type and I will let you know if they are ok. now I have a question for all when choosing motors should you chose a
    voltage
    rating equal to the of the battery or higher then the
    voltage
    of the battery
    7 months ago by teejay
    Response
    HMS BRAVE BORDERER
    Don't know what happened to my last post but I'll try again. This link, https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?1148637-wire-lengths-between-ESC-motor-ESC-battery may be a useful read and explain what I am on about (rough idea in pic). I don't think too many people are aware of some of the problems which can be caused by altering Batt to ESC wiring. I don't think its too much of a problem at lower
    voltage
    s but see what you think. Not sure if you have a throttle curve facility on your new TX but if it has, using that you can create a gentle start, ramping up steadily, no matter how fast you push the stick up. You can ram the stick up but it will only follow the curve you set. eg pic showing random curve (you can make this any shape you want to control any function) there are usually a number of curves you can set and save for throttle, rudder - anything you want to control automatically. Not sure about your TX but my 9xr even has a feature whereby you can slow the servo action down (I use that on my Piper Super Cub flaps which come down slowly in 2 stages (2 pos switch) and go up faster. Your new TX probably has a lot of these features and once you find how to use them it will open up a whole new world of fun. Another example of what you can do with these computer radios is, on one of my models I am using 'flapperons' to slow it for landing and as the ailerons come down the elevator is mixed to move up to compensate to stop the plane nosing down. it's pretty much endless what you can do. I'm still exploring after 8 yrs of computer radio use. I remember a guy somewhere talking about the flashing lights on his plane and saying it wasn't the lights on a flasher unit it was the TX telling them to flash.
    7 months ago by jbkiwi
    Response
    HMS BRAVE BORDERER
    Hi Rowen, Re Relays. The so called 'back emf' (reverse
    voltage
    ) is caused when you switch off the relay. The magnetic field collapses and the energy is releases as a
    voltage
    spike with opposite polarity to the 'pull in'
    voltage
    . Since you are using an electronic switch this spike could damage the output transistor of the switch.😑 The diode is connected across the relay coil as a blocking diode, i.e. back to front wrt the operating
    voltage
    , and absorbs the spike. Each and any relay coil needs one! This is a manifestation of the induction effect which makes E-motors and generators work πŸ˜‰ Capacitors: Parallel!! An idea with the Y leadπŸ‘ You'll lose the 'tank' steering assistance function though.😲 Happy experimenting, cheers, Doug 😎 PS I use the same alarms, also good for testing batteries on the bench, and ESCs from the same Quicrun range (in my Sea Scout for example), reliable and simple to set up. Even simpler if you buy the little programming card for them. Only a few bucks and well worth it. I've been wondering if it's the response of your ESCs which causes your 'modulation' problem! Remind me; which ESCs are you using? PPS have a look here for an explanation of the suppression (flyback) diode and how to connect it 😊 https://www.wikiwand.com/en/Flyback_diode
    7 months ago by RNinMunich
    Response
    HMS BRAVE BORDERER
    Rowen, here are a couple of things that may be of use to you (and others). The battery alarm will save you worrying about running out of steam as they can be set to beep at varying
    voltage
    s to warn you of low battery, just put one on each batt balance lead and when one goes off (when an individual cell drops below the set
    voltage
    ) it means start heading back. These can be picked up on Ebay for a few dollars. I use them on my planes as well and are audable from around 100m (these twin horns are the best) Secondly, re your ESC switches, these electronic switches (AliExpress) are great for this sort of thing (as long as you have enough aux switches on TX ) You can link them with a Y cable to work together or use them independantly for anything, (lights, pumps etc, - they can be operated by TX rotary switches as well) The ESC and 2000kv motor (HK) are the ones I am using in my ASR model and will work smoothly down to a crawl, the purple 1980 kv seems to have superseded these but I think they will be as good. The props are from Ali Express and are resin and available in L and R hand, are only a few bucks and perform perfectly while looking quite scale(ish). I painted them with an acrylic bronze which seems to have stayed on pretty well. Model weighs 2.8kg and will run at more than 10mph flat out with this set-up (using the 26mm L+R) props) which is silly speed and that's with 2x 2s 2200mah lipos (which will last till you get sick of it and still have 60% left) I was just looking at your Daman set-up and noticed the wiring method from the batts to the ESCs. You might want to make your batt to ESC connections direct to your ESCs (as per original ESC lead length)as your capacitors may get a thrashing (spikes) due to the extra length/ resistance you have there. There is a general rule that you don't lengthen the batt to ESC wiring without adding a 220mf capacitor of same
    voltage
    as the ESC for every 4"of extra wire length (ESC to motor - not so much). Might want to check this out in case you fry your ESCs You probably have thought of this but thought I'd mention it, 'just in case' Might help with your modulation as well. Have chucked in a vid of the HSL manouvering (first trials so wasn't perfect) and also the MTB (brushed) which I have just converted to a twin system (was twin but single Electronize unit) plus a sound unit. You may know that you can use as many RECs (bound to the same TX) for various purposes on the same boat (have run 2 boats together from the same TX) Might get you round the mixed brushless/ brushed problem with a bit of thought. Have you thought of changing your old HK silver 6DF TX to twin throttles, it's a piece of cake(as is the TGY 6x), just remove the aileron/rudder centering spring and make a friction plate as per throttle stick, and use the elevator channel as your other throttle. Set your ESCs and you can then use a twin system giving you perfect control. Saves a lot of hassle.
    7 months ago by jbkiwi
    Blog
    HMS BRAVE BORDERER
    Finally the new brass propellers arrived, delayed about a month in one of Canada's regular postal disruptions. After minor modifications to the boss profile (the brass are more streamlined and thus longer than nylon) to give clearance with the rudder leading edges, they were easily installed. Could now refit the electrical equipment previously removed to get access to the shaft couplings. Inevitably took the opportunity to make β€œimprovements”, so then could not get anything to work! After much frustration determined the problem was not from my improvements, but from the cheap and nasty slide switches provided with ESCs. These must have got damp during the test runs and corroded internally. Suggest when using these switches they be consigned to the garbage and replaced with proper toggle ones. Had decided to use the centre brushed motor/propeller for manoeuvring and low speed operation and then the outer brushless for high speed. Brushless ESCs do not modulate smoothly and motor operation is erratic. This was particularly evident when going from forward to reverse and vice versa. Using a lever control Tx, it was also easy to inadvertently operate the brushless control along with the brushed making the model response unpredictable. After some thinking, decided to insert a small relay into each of the white signal wires for the brushless motor ESCs. These relays would be controlled by a RC switch operated by another channel on the Rx. Hoping this way the brushless motors could be switched on and off whenever desired. The two relays would retain the ESCs as separate circuits and avoid any interference between them. The idea worked, can now operate the brushed motor confidently knowing the brushless will not be inadvertently triggered. This means low speed manoeuvers can be gently undertaken using the modulation and control ability of the brushless motors and, by selecting the auxiliary control, can add the high speed capability of the brushless. Am also hoping that when the Li-Pos trigger the low
    voltage
    cut-outs in the ESCs, this will retain a β€œget-home” facility on the brushed motor as that ESC operates independently. Much to look forward to when next on the water.
    7 months ago by RHBaker
    Forum
    All hooked up, nowt happens...
    You're as BAD as me Boaty πŸ˜‰ but I had a Rover 2000 with fully reclining seats back then - no problem 😁 Re 3 wires on a brushless. Simply put, this is analogous to a 3 phase AC motor (such as used in bathroom extractor fans etc). If you apply a single phase AC
    voltage
    to an AC motor it just twitches backwards and forwards in the same place as the
    voltage
    crosses from the positive to the negative half cycle. Thus 3 phases are applied giving 3 'shoves' in sequence to keep things moving. A starter capacitor is also needed to give the motor a 'belt' to shove it off. Similarly with a brushless: the ESC senses where the motor armature is in relation to the magnet poles and applies a DC pulse to the next armature coil in sequence. When you shove the throttle up the pulse width lengthens applying a longer shove and thus more energy and speed. Pulling the throttle back with a reversible ESC just turns the pulse train upside down so that negative DC pulses are applied to the motor, reversing the magnetic field created in the armature and thus the rotation. Simple really. It's the sensing and timing done inside the ESC that's the tricky bit, which is why we had to wait about a hundred years from the invention of the AC motor (Nikolai Tesla) until we could use them in models - thanks to micro-electronics. Here endeth today's seminar 😁😁 Happy brushlessing Folks, cheers, Doug 😎 Hmmm, perhaps that's why electric toothbrushes use brushed motors! 😁😜
    7 months ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    All hooked up, nowt happens...
    Hi rapidair65, Most Brushless ESCs seem to assume that you are using either LiPo or NiMh batteries. it needs to know which so it can set the correct cut off
    voltage
    per cell, e.g. 3.=V for Lipo. From the applied
    voltage
    it can work out how many cells and the correct cut off. If you are using two SLA I assume 2x6V in series giving 12V. So tell the ESC that you are using NiMh and it will assume 10 cells @ 1.2V / cell. I'll be interested to hear how you get on as an SLA has nominally 2V per cell!! You should get away with it as the ESC checks the total
    voltage
    applied - it has no access to individual cells πŸ˜‰ it will probably let the battery
    voltage
    go down to 11V before stopping the motor(s)😲 Good luck, Cheers, Doug 😎
    7 months ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    All hooked up, nowt happens...
    Hi Martin, maybe! Maybe not! You might be lucky. Check the RX with just a servo plugged in somewhere. Then try setting up the ESC according to the instructions I sent. Basically all you have to do is tell it what type of battery you are using. Then it sets the correct 'Cut Off'
    voltage
    . BTW: since this is a 'One way only' ESC before you switch the system on make sure the throttle stick is pulled right back. Otherwise the motor will start up straight away. Mind yer fingas!! 😑 Also check that the throttle channel is not reversed at the TX - like most Futaba sets for some crazy reason - or again the motor will start up with the throttle pulled back. PDF: as Steve says; click on the Icon, then on [Download] in the top left corner. Windows should then offer you the choice of 'Open' or 'Save'. Click 'Save' and Windows will ask where you want to put the file. Cheers, Doug 😎
    7 months ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    All hooked up, nowt happens...
    Hi Martin, Looks like this one XXD HW30A 30A Brushless Motor ESC For Airplane Quadcopter Which means it ain't got no backuds! But I don't suppose that bothers you. Attached is the manual as pdf. Before you can run the ESC you have to program the type of battery; LiPo or NiMH. The ESC then sets the correct cut off
    voltage
    to protect the battery from deep discharge. See second page of pdf file for instructions. The ESC has a 5V 2A BEC. if you use a separate RX battery you MUST disconnect the small red wire from the RX plug! Bon chance, Cheers, Doug 😎
    7 months ago by RNinMunich
    Response
    BRAVE BORDERER - BRUSHLESS SUMMARY
    I used this pump from E Bay which pumps well, and with the rubber mounts is quiet. 6-12v (I use a 2 cell LiPo which seems perfect) and am cooling 2 2000kv 28mm in-runners. Have tried a few different pumps and these have been the best so far. You have to be careful that you don't over pressurize your plumbing system, as if the hoses come off while running you can fill your boat up in no time. it's safest to adjust your pump
    voltage
    or piping to a 'neutral' pressure rather than risk hosing down your electrics. I used twin pick-ups behind the props and separate feeds, one for the pump and one direct in case the pump stopped or blocked.
    8 months ago by jbkiwi
    Forum
    RC....mixers? And other unknowns..
    Ok... Currently trying to build a Itaieri Schnellboot, ...but am questioning if what little I think I know to be correct/ workable... I have amassed the following : 3- Hobbyking ST3007 1100KV brushless motors each direct drive to 32mm plastic props.... (2 right hand drive and 1 left hand drive props... swapped over leads on on motor to get it to run as yet untested the left hand prop) 3- Turnigy nano tech 3s 3000mh 25-50C Lipo ( Have got a balance charger and board , flame proof charge bag , battery
    voltage
    check/ alarm units, and will check and charge them await the only local help I have in RC / lips battery a helicopter flyer who has no experience with RC boats ) I just read the post on WTail mixer and wonder if I need that or if my current unkowning idea to just connect all 3 ESC β€˜s together to one channel on the radio , again was give Eflite Blade SR HP6DSM 2.4GHz to try out ,Will this unit work or do I need something else , currently will/ can use all 6 channels but would / could use more if I had them ... last time I had anything to do with RC was a a kid/ teen and back then you had ground radios and flight radios and the two should not be mixed .. Ok please advise , how far off am I or am I still within range of keeping it simple ? Thanks All Bill
    8 months ago by BW3
    Forum
    voltage
    increasing via regulator
    OK, Understood, I think! If you just want to boost the bow thruster why don't you just fit a small 12V (or 11.1V LiPo) just for that? Frankly I might start with an 9.6V batt before I jump from 7.2 to 12V. I assume it's just either On or OFF, i.e. no ESC. As you can see from the specs of your Booster, as the output volts increase the deliverable current (for a given input volts) decreases inversely, as I predicted! Ya don't get summat for nuttin! Soooo, you need to carefully check the specs of the thruster motor; max
    voltage
    , current at maximum efficiency versus volts applied! That will tell you the max volts battery that you can safely and most efficiently use, and you can check if your booster can deliver the required current at the
    voltage
    needed. I'd just use a separate battery and a servo operated micro switch, but then I'm just a dumb engineer!😲 Bon chance mon amiπŸ‘ Cheers, Doug 😎
    8 months ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    voltage
    increasing via regulator
    Evening all, I have a
    voltage
    regulator I’d like to fit to my Southport tug (currently running on 7.2v Ni-MHs) in order to get it up to 12v. I’m after more speed/power and would particularly like the bow thruster running a bit faster than it does on 7.2v. So, the questions are, where to fit it in the wiring loom, and what will the effect be on the battery life? Advice please! Thank you in advance...
    8 months ago by EricMB
    Forum
    voltage
    increasing via regulator
    Sorry, photo wrong way up!
    8 months ago by EricMB
    Forum
    voltage
    increasing via regulator
    Thanks for the in-depth answer Doug, much appreciated! The component was incorrectly labelled - my fault.. it’s a
    voltage
    Booster! Pic attached... to clarify, it’s really the bow thruster (a very small one at that!) I’d like running a bit faster, you’re right about tugs not being sprinters! Regards, Eric
    8 months ago by EricMB
    Forum
    voltage
    increasing via regulator
    A somewhat confused question if I may say so Eric!😲 You can't 'regulate up' only down. The regulator's job is to produce a constant lower
    voltage
    from a range of higher
    voltage
    s. I often use one to produce 5V for the RX and servos from a 12V SLA drive battery. A little 3 legged device (type LM7805) which looks just like the power FETs in a high current ESC. My version of a UBEC! πŸ˜‰ What is this 'regulator' you have? Type number? Manufacturer? Photo? To get 12V from 7.2V you would need to use a
    voltage
    converter (also known as an inverter). This works by converting the DC input from the battery to an AC
    voltage
    which can then be increased using a transformer. More elegant (and expensive!) versions use a transistor oscillator and amplifier. This uses hi-power transistors instead of the transformer. The AC output of the transformer (or amplifier) is then rectified back to DC. All this is very inefficient which is why it is normally only used for very light currents, where the losses are not so significant, and when there is no other alternative, not often the case! You can't beat the physics and you will never get the same power out that you put in. This leads to a basic design question:- What is the total current consumption of the load? I.e. the motors. A simple example:- Let's say that at 7.2V the motors draw 10Amps total, i.e. 72W (or VAmps). Assuming a utopian 100% efficiency at 12V this would equate to 6A. Due to the three stages of conversion; DC to AC, transformation / amplification of AC to 12V, AC back to DC, you'll probably be lucky to get an efficiency of around 60% to 70%. Thus if you stick 720W in you'll get around 430 to 504W out. Not much of a gain is it!πŸ€” Your battery would be exhausted in about 2/3 the time it is now 😑 If your motors draw more than 10A the problem just gets worse. So what is it you really want to do? If you just want to up the volts to your motors stick a 12V SLA or an 11.1V LiPo (3S) in and hope that you don't cook your motors! Frankly I don't really know why you're bothering, tugs aren't sprinters! If you want more pulling power with the existing setup try experimenting with prop sizes and pitch. Will probably achieve much more than fiddlin' about with
    voltage
    converters. BTW: All this assumes that the RX has it's own separate 5V battery supply or from a BEC in the ESC. Some clarification needed from your side. Cheers, Doug 😎
    8 months ago by RNinMunich
    Blog
    Motors
    Don't know what happened MOTOR COMPARISON Model Number Caldercraft CEM 900T MFA Torpedo 850 Nominal
    voltage
    12v 12v Operating Range 6-24v 12v Type Brushed Brushed Current Cons No Load 0.4A 1.9A Current Consumption Max Eff 5A 10,8A Stall Current 20.3A 40A RPM at Nominal
    voltage
    3000r/min 9778r/min Prop Caldercraft 75mm The Motor I am putting in this Sea Queen is a Torpedo 850. This is due to the Caldercraft motor only manages just above walking pace.
    8 months ago by Ianh
    Forum
    Margaret's health
    Doug they don't say what Mah is for. just the figure alongside the
    voltage
    . A 1000 and a100 Ohm both too big so will try 10 to 20 range. thanks Doug πŸ‘πŸ‘ I can't do pics. Not equipped.
    8 months ago by onetenor
    Forum
    Margaret's health
    Hi John, Yes, two or three times actually. I wanted to know the current the charger is rated for. Should be on a label or embossed on the case somewhere. Given that the calculation is easy. V=I*R --> R=V/I Given an initial charging
    voltage
    of approx 7.4 +10% = 8.14V and a charge current of 0.5A; V=15-8.14 --> 6.86 R=6.86/0.5 --> 13.72Ω so you need a 12 or 15Ω resistor. P=I*V = 0.5*6.86 --> 3.43W. So you need at least a 5W resistor. A ceramic resistor if there is enough space. Alles klar Herr Kommissar? πŸ˜‰ Cheers, Doug 😎
    8 months ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Margaret's health
    Thanks luv you all. Btw doug did you ever reply to my query re
    voltage
    dropping. 15 v raw down to whatever needed for charging 7.4v (7.5/6 )???πŸ‘ What resistor would I need?
    8 months ago by onetenor
    Forum
    VOSPER 46'' Crash Tender
    Actually 4 pole , "Graupner HPD 2920-4000 High-end brushless motor Particularly suitable for: MiniMono, MiniHydro, MiniCats, MiniHydroplanes, aircraft with wingspan up to 1 m, off-road and on-road 1:12 Features ?Special CNC-machined housing for maximum heat dissipation ?High-efficiency 4-pole 12-slot brushless motor ?High-performance rotor with Kevlar reinforcement ?High-purity copper coils for optimised conductivity ?Extremely strong sintered neodymium magnets ?Intense torque at low weight Specification Operating
    voltage
    range : 4,2-16,8 V No-load speed: 29600 U/min All-up weight, approx. : 90 g Free shaft length: 10 mm Recommended controller: Navy V75 G7257 Output : 650 W Number of poles: 4 Permissible motor direction : R und L Nominal
    voltage
    : 7,4 V Case length: 30 mm Shaft diameter: 4 mm Case diameter: 29 mm Revolutions/Volt: 4000 " Taken from one Google, first response at Cornwall Models Boats!πŸ˜‰ Note. 650W, Nominal
    voltage
    7.4V. No wonder it's a bit quick on 11.1V 😲 Cheers, Doug 😎
    9 months ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Mtronics and Lipo's
    Basically ads is correct, but that's only half the story! The clue is to look for 'LiPo Safe' when buying ESCs. That tells you it has a programmable Cut Off
    voltage
    setting to prevent damage to your battery. Default is usually 3.2V per cell. Absolute minimum is 3.0V. Below that you risk irreversible damage to the battery due to chemical changes that can't be reversed. The alternative is to fit a battery monitor which can trigger an audio and/or visual alarm to warn you to 'make nearest port best speed' before your battery is deep discharged, from which it will not recover! Some ESCs have a programmable function which allows to preset a reduction of the max power to the motor (instead of a total shut down) to give you the chance to get home before disaster. PLEASE don't ask me which ones. Check the specs carefully before you buy. Many current TX/RX sets will tell you on the TX display when the battery volts are low. Cheers, Doug 😎
    9 months ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Mtronics and Lipo's
    The TIO has a safety low battery
    voltage
    cut-off for LIPO batteries whereas the Viper 15 does not have this facility. if you are confident in not running down your LIPO battery to below a 'safe limit' then you should be OK to just use the ordinary Viper.
    9 months ago by ads90
    Response
    20th Scale ELCO 80ft PT boat part 9
    Hi thanks for your input The pictures do not show the mini fans now attached to each motor which were robbed from PC cooling fans. The boat is not a performance craft I will hopefully only pull 20 to 30A from each of the low kv motors. Spec. 2808 1400KV 14 Poles Brushless Motor Max Watt: 350W
    voltage
    range: 7-15V Max amps: 35A No load: 1.2A
    9 months ago by CB90
    Blog
    BRAVE BORDERER - BRUSHLESS SUMMARY
    Although have modeling experience, all my earlier vessels used brushed motors. This was my first brushless. The model is now running well, but thought, for the benefit of others considering this transition to summarize my experiences. Must stress the performance of a brushless motor is incredible when compared to a similar sized brushed; for a vessel such as this they are almost obligatory. They are worth the trouble! Had been advised that the best powertrain installation for a 37” Brave Borderer is either a single or twin screws, not three. This was good advice! Much heartache could have been avoided with a single screw installation. Unfortunately, that is not the correct layout for a scale builder. Tried three major powertrain iterations, with several variations within each group. All motors are 28mm O/D : 1) The original installation used 3 x 4600kV inrunner motors with 30 A ESCs. Had bought these items used. The motors were too fast and had little torque. The ESCs also did not have adequate capacity. The result was erratic performance, a high fuse failure rate and the eventual failure of an ESC and motor Picture #1. 2) First upgrade was to 2 x 2400kV inrunner motors, using 50A capacity ESCs. The centre shaft was fitted with a brushed motor. This combination did work, although suffered greatly from motor β€œsqueal” and β€œstutter”. Eventually a motor burnt out and failed. Picture #2 3) Upgrade two: retained the 50 A ESCs, with 2 x 2600 kV outrunner motors, again with the brushed inner shaft motor. Reprogrammed the ESCs to soft start parameters. Much better, performance and reliability can now be considered acceptable. The squeal and stutter are largely corrected it has justified the challenges of getting here. Picture #3 Have tried both 2 and 3S Li-Po batteries, suggest use the minimum
    voltage
    needed to achieve the desired performance. Higher
    voltage
    s translate into faster response and performance, but with less control modulation. The model can be easily overpowered. In summary, from my experience. For a marine application; chose low (under 2000kV) kV rating motors with an outrunner layout wherever possible (produce more torque than inrunners). Use ESCs with a ratings comfortably in excess of the motor ratings, fit fuses to supplement any ESC protections. Ensure the ESCs are programmed to β€œsoft start” characteristics. Also, the obvious check of making sure shaft alignment is correct is even more important with the higher speed capability of brushless motors. in spite of the trails, cost and tribulations of getting here. Have enjoyed the challenge and the end result does justify the means. Also, do not finally fit the deck until you are satisfied with the performance. Making the changes described with limited access would have been very difficult and frustrating.
    9 months ago by RHBaker
    Forum
    motor sizeing
    Hi Jim I used a Hobbyking D3548/4 1100kv , a car ESC (hk60A-SL)(electric fan on top for cooling), program card(HK PROG-CARD) and a 40mm 2blade prop(test out the one on the boat first). Battery a 3s 5800mah 30C Lipo. This is in my Sea Commander and gives a good turn of speed with a long run time. ESC set up:- 1 Cutoff
    voltage
    for 3S=10.2 and 4S=13.6 2 Start Power Percent=5% 3 Advance Timing=4 4 Run Mode=2 5 Brake Force=1 6 Drag Brake Force=1 7 Neutral Range=1 8 initial Brake Force=1 9 Reverse Force=1 Canabus
    9 months ago by canabus
    Forum
    Nomenclature...
    Doug a quick one for you I've got a wall wart with a blown / burnt resistor. The rest is working fine and I would like to replace the resistor and put back into use with the model it belongs to. I can't read the res as its burnt black (output leads got shorted.) it's the last one in the circuit ( output lead )
    voltage
    up to it is 15v. it is to charge 7.4v Ncads/ Nimhs AA/AAA packs. I can't work out what the value should be. Should be simples for you if you'd be so kind as to do the maths for me. I'll luv ya forever if you do. Not literally of course but ye know warrimean. Regards JohnπŸ‘ No comments like ducky etc please. Oh yes remember your remarks re our local pubs? The owner of our nearest the STAR ( ex plough Still got one on roof of main windows) rang our bell. He'd seen Marg go off in an ambulance 2 days on the trot and wanted to know if he could help.( We were customers now and again) He brought a wine for Marg and a nice flask of bitter each for Ant and I. Luvverly. He stayed about 2 hours nattering and when he left he said ring him if we needed help any time. We had the same offer from a young chap who helped Marg up the path too with a mate. Our adjoining neighbour looked after their shopping. Starting to see some signs of neighbourliness again it seems.πŸ‘πŸ˜.
    9 months ago by onetenor
    Forum
    Nomenclature...
    Hi Martin, 'Linear' in this context just means more or less a passive analogue device, and when it's on it's ON full stop. Decades ago I made my own with a simple one chip circuit using a 3 legged
    voltage
    regulator L7805 5V 1A and they're still going strong😊 The SBEC uses a fast switching type of power circuit, similar to the pulsed DC outputs of the ESCs. The switched type is an active device and is more efficient, less battery power wasted as heat, but can cause interference with older 27 / 40Meg RC receivers. Shouldn't affect 2.4Gig sets though. Cheers, Doug. PS even in a blackout I think I would find my way to the wine cooler or my malt whisky! πŸ˜πŸ˜‹
    9 months ago by RNinMunich
    Response
    BRAVE BORDERER
    If you are using 2 ESCs/BEC/UBECs with 2 plugged into 1 receiver you should remove the red wire from one of the plugs and tape it back to the lead, as both plugged in will possibly supply too much
    voltage
    for the receiver (you are getting double the
    voltage
    from 2 different sources) and this can cause the ESC to stutter . You should have no problems with Brushless out-runner motors as with the correct match with the ESC they should be as smooth as brushed. I have dual 2000kv 28/45 in-runners (with water jackets) and twin ESCs and 2 sound units using 1 receiver in my 64ft ASR model with no problems regarding proportional control (fwd or rev). I had a 28mm O/R in a Maiami ASR and it would crawl along (but the high noise was ear wrecking so have changed it back to brushed for now. I do have a similar slight high pitched squeal at certain speeds on one motor and this may be caused by the particular motor not 'syncing'properly with the ESC (Chinese cheap ESCs and HobbyKing /made in china motors) but short of changing that motor and ESC I am just putting up with it for now. The high pitched sync noise is fairly common and sometimes not fixable, (a number of my larger planes do it and its audible from 100m away (also amplified by a hull,-nice sound box). it can depend on the way a particular motor is wound (no 2 are identical) or even magnet placement/timing, as the may be hand wound by 2 very nice Chinese ladies at different ends of a bench ( just read some of the Hobby King motor reviews ) You could try changing the frequency on the ESC if it has that option as a higher motor Kv sometimes requires a higher frequency. Also make sure your ESC is set to the correct battery cell count. if it has an auto setting that should usually work best for general applications unless you are running fancy motors. Regarding interference, make sure you keep your aerial as far as poss from the motors and ESCs (even on 2.4 - I put mine right up in the bow) and there should be no problems. I have had 2 twin engined boats (my MTB & ASR) 1 brushed and 1 brushless running side by side 10" apart using the same radio for both (same type of Rec in each boat) with no problems at all. The bow down is probably prop shaft angle (the shallower the better) but if you are using counter rotating props you could try swapping props (inward rotation to outward) and motor rotation to see if it makes a difference. Also with 2800Kv motors you should be using small props (around 28-30mm diam 3 blade) as these motors are made to rev) as on a 2s battery they will be turning at around 20,000 dry and perhaps 18,000 wet (depending on prop) and if you load them too much they will cook with no cooling (assuming they are around 28mm dia ?) Only other thought - silicone couplings will squeal real loud if they slip.
    9 months ago by jbkiwi
    Forum
    Taycol Supemarine Resurrection
    Mornin' John, agree re chromite, but still don't know what chroDite is! I only personally own the one Taycol Target. I got into this whole Taycol business while I was renovating Dad's old Sea Scout last year and decided I wanted a bit more Oomph so upgraded it to a 1000kV brushless, which gives goods results on a 3S LiPo. See the vids I've posted of the the 'Sea trials' (Lake Trials!?). So I decided to use the Target in the ancient Billing Boats Danish fish cutter I'm restoring and converting from static to RC. Figured the Target would cope OK with the plodding pace of a fish cutterπŸ˜‰ BUT, I wanted it to be reversible without cumbersome external switches or relays as recommended by Taycol / Keil Kraft in those days. After surfing around a bit a found a website where others had tackled the same problem. Looked at their solutions and refined them slightly. All I do is rectify the pulsed (square wave) signal from the ESC with a bridge rectifier (4 hi-current diodes in a bridge form in one package), apply the + and - outputs from the rectifier to the field coil so that it produces a constant magnetic field just like the permanent magnet of a canned motor. The two alternating (pulsed) outputs of the ESC are applied to the AC (~) inputs of the rectifier, which go + / - or - / + according to the command from the TX, I apply to the brush terminals just like a normal brushed motor setup. The output of the ESC is a train of either positive of negative going DC pulses. Pic 2 the positive train on the scope. Pic 3 the negative train. The larger and wider the pulse the higher and longer the
    voltage
    is applied and the faster the motor spins. So called Pulse Width Modulation (PWM). The gaps between the pulses are smoothed out by the inertia (flywheel effect) of the motor, and anything hanging on it - like a prop and a few million gallons of wet stuff 😁 Hey presto, a field coil motor that runs forwards or backwards on command 😊 Main thing is simply to separate the field coil from the armature coil (i.e. brush gear) so you can control each one independently. No rocket science but highly satisfying when it all comes together and works on the pond. OK, I'll look up Mr Lynch, wasn't he the Sarge in Z Cars 😁😁😁 Cheers, Doug 😎
    9 months ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    54'' long Cervia tug.
    My Cervia was ready built. I have replaced the Electric motor with a large servo motor (Brushed) .Direct drive and being heavy helps with ballasting. lead acid gel cells are power source. Motor rated
    voltage
    24 v but run it on 12v . low rev high torque no load current 1 amp. Shaft diameter 0.5 in. Gives some idea of power out. Being servo motor (ex computer drive 30 years old) well balanced no vibration. Photo near shore shows power of motor.
    10 months ago by tysonyoung
    Forum
    Launch ELAINE,
    Hi Colin, As discussed on the phone; 2V grid bias, 90V anode supply! In those days they had 90V dry batteries, they musta run it 'sumow'! 😁 Don't give up so easy! Nowadays how about a 24S LiPo? Or even Martin's 'big box' solution. http://www.batterysupports.com/lion-lipo-nbsp-88v-nbsp-24s-c-32_62.html 24V chargers / balancers won't be cheap thoughπŸ€” 2V is no sweat; 2V SLA, a la Glow Plug starter. How big is the boat an' how much weight can she carry? My first car radio was an ancient Echo valve job, with an inductive inverter bolted under the dash to produce the 90-100v for the bottles. Took me ages to find a way to mount it so it didn't make the whole dash hum like a swarm of bees😲 Later there was briefly a generation of 'low
    voltage
    ' valves. Soon superseded by transistors from 1948 on. (And NO I'm not pre '48 vintage, well not quite!πŸ˜‰) Looking forward to your progress reports. Would really love to witness one of your displays. Please keep me posted about dates. All the best to you both, Cheers, Doug 😎 PS building a transmitter to match won't be easy. A TX on the right frequency is relatively easy, the tricky bit is the 'modulation' for the control functions! Hats off to your guy 'up the road' if he manages it! I'd really really love to see THAT!
    10 months ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    SLA Batteries!
    Ed, What you are writing makes no sense whatsoever!😲 Where are you measuring these
    voltage
    swings? PM or mail me a sketch of the set up and wiring in your boat with photos showing all power connections please. Are you sure the batts are in series? Something's very peculiar somewhere. SLAs only go reverse polarity, and then not much, when they have been deep discharged and then neglected for a while. But they NEVER recover and come back from that! Cheers, Doug 😎
    10 months ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Schnnelleboot Battery
    Not necessarily, it would depend on the amount of current your 3 motors would draw & the
    voltage
    + ah rating of the battery. For instance, my tug has 2 motors - 2 esc - 2 sla batteries, they make 2 separate systems, port & stb, so if I lose one side, I can still tug with the other. They would both run just on 1 battery if that's all I put in the boat, but using 2 batteries saves me having to use a lot of lead for ballast.
    10 months ago by Kipper


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