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Mersey ferry hull
a1960s onwards Mersey ferry grp hul
10 months ago by davidhgreatbatch
Aerokits 46'' twin screw brushless conversion
Today I had a run with the new batteries, and It was a great success. I wasn't after more speed, although I couldn't help myself seeing how fast It would go, but
more efficiency, which didn't happen as I went too fast, and better run time.
When you have a big lake all to yourself on a sunny bank holiday morning, you just got to open It up. Data logging was on board, so with 5 cells per motor, almost 20 mins going fast most of the time, I recorded 25.3mph which Is stupid speed for this boat as It Is so heavy now and a whopping 939watts, 51.82 amps, which are maximum spikes.
On a smaller lake It would last a lot longer, but I like speed! 😀
6 years ago by pmdevlin
This model is intended to be used to carry camera such as a go pro. my current camera vessel is a barge and I can't turn the barge without it looking bad on video so I
a vessel that can move under its own power but not too fast. The model is 1/20 and will have 2 paddles wheels, one on each side. This particular vessel is currently in Canberra NSW but it used to operate in Uchuka NSW.
11 months ago by rcmodelboats
Ketch Barge ''Pearl of Ipswich''
As I have mentioned before, I like the workboats from the age of sailing. The sailing barges caught my interest some time ago on one of my stays in the UK and I recently purchased a number of books on them. interesting history, more to it than I realized. Finally decided to build a Ketch Barge that is categorized as a Boomie as well. Several reasons; I
to model one of the larger ones, this one is 85', and I like gaff rigged boats with booms. Topsails a must as well and I like ketches. This one fits the bill and who could resist the chance to set 7 to 8 sails!
Frank Carr's book tells the story of the barge Pearl and included plan, elevation, lines and sail plans. Nice bit of information, I can build with that. See attached photos. This will probably be a lengthy build, my Falmouth Gaff-rigged Cutter took me two years. I built that one while on assignment in Grand Cayman using only my small kit OD hand tools. More to come, hope to start this week. Cheers, Joe
10 months ago by Joe727
because I am tight fisted and
to get my monies worth! 😜
8 months ago by Haverlock
I have looked and better looked for a decent servo mount but could not find one that suited the position I
to put the servo, so I decide to make my own. I bought some aluminium channel, which would act as a platform and base for the standard servo. Space in terms of height is at a premium and so some material had to be removed from the keel area to make sure the servo arms did not catch on the underside floor of the rear deck. As the space tapers in height from stern>forward then the best position for the servo would be next to the forward bulkhead
8 months ago by mturpin013
CNC boat kits...?
Well, I've got my eShapeoko. I bought all the electronics and motors as well as the mechanical kit from the same source, which meant that I didn't have to do all the work to check compatibility. Total cost, including VAT and postage, was £563 - which is remarkably cheap for a machine with this size cutting bed. if I had
to save money and use the free LinuxCNC with a Chinese breakout board I could have dropped the price to around £400 - probably below £350 if I had gone for Chinese Ebay steppers as well.
There are more things to get, of course. Tooling and workholding are the standard extras for any big workshop machine. The eShapeoko is designed to hold a Dremel clone, but I will probably be using a more delicate tool to cut out thin balsa shapes for EeZeBilts. The eShapeoko is quite capable of milling metals, but I don't expect to do that very often. So I can't see the total price rising by a lot - perhaps another £20 or so before I can be cutting my first parts.
The first thing I did when I got the parts was assemble them roughly to check that it all went together properly. Here is a shot - minus the wiring and controls, of course - to give an idea of the size of the thing. With it I can cut keel lengths up to about 36". The maximum cutting width is about 14". I can easily expand it in length by adding longer rails, but this represents a balance between what would be useful and what would fit easily in the shed!
Assembling it is just like making a Meccano kit. Which should present no difficulty to someone of a certain age...! For anyone interested this is the site I got it from: https://amberspyglass.co.uk
9 months ago by DodgyGeezer
I have two steam boats, an Alexandra and a Tug which was destined for the bin, until my friend suggested that he may know someone who
it. I refurbished the boat and the steam plant went to Clevedon Steam who stripped it, reset the burner etc and added a few new bits, glass water gauge etc.
The rudder is controlled by an electric motor, NOT a servo, so you have to return the motor to central after a manouevre, so you have to think well ahead of where you are, and where you want to be!!
9 months ago by CaptainFlack
Thanks for that,....this is what I was thinking of, just
to see if there any out there that needed re-purposing!!
9 months ago by misterbee
Slightly confused newbie
Dog I tend to agree except after I spoke to mtroniks they
mu to return it because they said it was not how it should bec
9 months ago by J Barry
New to Forum
Hello fellow model boaters. I'm new here so forgive my posting mistakes. Just
to introduce myself, I've been building model boats (static) for about 5 years. I mostly build my concept of a boat, however I have built from some plans. I build small models, 10" is my biggest and most are under that. I also have a fascination with air boats and have built several. Does anyone deal with soldering metal components, having a problem with material. Usually I draw what I want to build, make templates, transfer to balsa, and build. Are any of the clubs focused on non RC models? Looking to learn and share!👍
9 months ago by retirement-hobby
Emma C. Berry
I need some help. I've successfully refurbished my static display Emma C. Berry model and added remote control. I have the sails on a winch loop, I have the rudder on a servo, I even managed to add a motor, and an extended keel with weight. The one issue that I have not been able to resolve is maneuvering under sail. Primarily, I cannot get it to move through the irons when coming about. She responds and the sails will luft, she might even catch some wind but she never makes enough of a turn to change direction. I've already changed out the rudder for the larger size on the plans. I've also tried extending the depth of the rudder. Bottom line, she is mainly being driven by the current. In this situation, by current I mean whichever way the wind is blowing the small lake. It is a local park lake and doesn't really have any inherent current. My one suspicion is the keel I added. It is doing its job to keep her upright and providing some resistance but in the end, the underwater current is overpowering her response to the rudder and/or trimming the sails. See Photo. I had originally
to incorporate a more rounded profile on the ends of the weight and the shafts but I remember reading somewhere that it isn't that critical Sails are per the plans and made from the material that came with the kit (25+ years ago). I even added a couple of sailor figures but we still can't establish control. 😭
9 months ago by carpemoment
PS Iona - Motors
So to power the tug I needed some sort of motor gearbox arrangement, and I
2 of them so I could drive the paddles independently, using 2 ESCs / batteries. The answer came in the form of 1:16 scale model tank motors/gearboxes. I managed to find a couple on a well known selling platform... someone was upgrading their tank to metal gears and had 2 for sale. The gearing got the speed of the output shaft down to almost sensible, so I just needed to reduce it and connect the output to the paddle shafts... using Meccano gears & chains of course. This works well and allows scale speed running of the paddles up to much faster than scale speed!(if it's windy)
Oh, just to mention the motor frames were mounted with grommets to blocks of wood to provide some suspension, and be removable if necessary.🤓
9 months ago by Harvey Kitten
You are quite right, I intend to flip it over, build some jigs, when it's time to do the hull "planking". My methods are to experiment along the way on a Build, try different ideas along the way. Decided that I first
to build a very straight, rigid keel with stern and bow ribs first. That's why the build board is just a lightweight flat straight surface, I figure out how to clamp it best as I go. Your interest and comments are appreciated, it made me think more about the planking, thanks! Joe
9 months ago by Joe727
Determine Scale / Ribs / HELP with building board ideas?
To clarify this build, it will be a RC Sailing Boat with full functioning rudder and sails. I say this as I am using the PEARL for its design overall, but as to detailed historical details it will have some, but be simplified.
Boat's Dimnsions were shown in Imperial, 21' width x 85'-6" length. The bowsprit adds about another 25% in length. To determine what scale I
to build in I thought most about storage, weight to lift and how to transport to the pond. I like to keep things simple, I prefer to rig it and transport while assembled, with the topsail mast dropping and the bowsprit retracted. Have done this before and it has worked well for me.
Looking at potential scales and finished sizes.
* 3/4" or 1/18 scale would be 16" x 64"
* 1/2" or 1/24 scale equals 10.5" x 42.75"
* 3/8" equals 8" x 32"
I prefer a larger bout in length as it is easier to get to sail correctly, at least in my experience. Anything under 32" get tricky. I like the 64" size, but with bowsprit will be about 88" LOA. This will be a little too large for my vehicle. I decided to go with 1/2" scale as it will still be a good length hull.
Ribs - I took the hull line drawings from the book, which were very small, just about an inch wide. I scanned the image and using the app "paint" on my laptop. I cropped it close around the hull rib drawing, I then enlarged it to 1/2" scale. Then I printed on standard letter sized paper, then mirrored the image cut them in two, pasted up as seen in the photos to show the completed rib sections.
Next I will put together a building board / hull jig. I want to build bottom up for planking. DO any of you have any good ideas for the best one to build? I have never done this except for tiny boats.
Ideas, Help would be appreciated. Joe
9 months ago by Joe727
LED Tug Mast Navigation Lights
As “luck” would have it I managed to fall down several of our basement stairs last Fall (no pun intended, I promise. But I really hope it’s the “last fall” I ever take). I had a good hold of the railing & I don’t have any idea why I fell. Luckily it was only about six steps; it could have been much worse.
As it is, though, I dislocated my right shoulder & tore the right biceps tendon loose from the bone. The dislocation was fixed with physical therapy but surgery via scope was needed to install two titanium anchors in the front of the shoulder bone. The tendon tatters were trimmed, then it was sutured to the anchors.
Seeing that I can tie my shoes by myself again now I’m trying to get back to work on my tug. I’m still severely klutzy but I’m getting better every day & my fine motor skills are coming back OK.
When the doctor told me I needed surgery I said I
a second opinion. He said: “OK, you’re ugly, too”. Then I asked him if I’d be able to play the violin when I’m all better. He said I shouldn’t have any problem playing at all. That’s great news for me seeing as I can’t play one now. Seriously, I do miss not being able to play my guitars.
Well, that’s all I can write for now. I hope you’re doing really well & having great success with all of your projects.
Take good care.
10 months ago by PittsfieldPete
Model Smoker Build
Yesterday, I showed a Model Smoker that I built, I have had requests to share details. This blog will walk you through what I did. Please note that this was built from ideas gathered from the web, I did not invent this. Also, anything that has voltage and anything that creates heat can be a hazard, I am not responsible for any damage caused. Again, just sharing information.
First, I researched the web and saw how others made a smoker, then I just
to cobble together one mainly from parts I have. You can see this on a variety of searches and videos.
First, Collected parts required.
1. Thrift store hair dryer
2. Wick lamp or Tiki torch, or similar wick
3. Wire crimps
4. 18 GA wire
5. Box, enclosure, container
6. 5v -12v fan, direction pushes air into box.
7. Foil, had copper sheet of aluminum foil
8. Adhesive, used CA
9. Mint tin or other
Since I did not photograph the original, I will put together some build steps and sketches. More to come, see photos for parts used.
10 months ago by Joe727
Thank you for your interest and the questions, I appreciate it.
1. With regard to the rubber stopper, good question. I have not done a lengthy test as yet, but will do. My thinking was that it would not effect the rubber as heat generated seems to be concentrated on the oil. I like the idea of a a metal cap, you have given me an idea, I have some small plumbing pieces that may work. it would be good to eliminate all flammable materials!
2. Varying the smoker with the engine speed has not been one of my goals, here is my thinking. I plan to use this unit on a steam tug, steam boilers seem to put out a constant smoke as the burning does not vary on a steam engine, the steam is just regulated. Hence, I have not done this, many commercial units offer this.
I recently purchased a commercial unit for over $100 USD and was not happy with the output, that is why I started this build.
From my video you can see how the smoke shoots out. I
to slow it down so it just puffs. I have experimented with lowering the fan voltage, but it cuts out below 3 volts. The attached sketch shows my experimenting with allowing some of the air from the fan to npbe redirected out. The tin that I soldered up is shown, took a lot of effort, did not work as planned. I did like the fact that it looked like a whiskey still.
3. Yes, there are smaller fans available on line. I was just using some salvage ones I had - 28mm square. I may experiment with some small fans if budget allows. I am now retired and counting pennies...
More on the puffing aspect to come...
10 months ago by Joe727
original Graupner carina named "juliette" the 1st one I built.
to be a classic model. (9/10)
10 months ago by Smaragd
Hello to Gary
to up-date you on the puffer build the steam plant came in and is now mounted in the puffer everything seems to work so far needs water testing to see how it will run.
10 months ago by Newby7
The deck planking.
The kit I’m constructing is a pre-production prototype and consequently it does not have the ‘laser etched planking’ feature that has been subsequently introduced in the final production kits on the ‘upper’ deck and the ‘well’ deck.
This is of no concern to me because I think I prefer to do my own planking anyway but I do have to do a bit of preparatory ‘laying out’ of the deck pattern to ensure that it’s symmetrical and laid in a pleasing fashion.
I have chosen to use 1.6 mm x 9.5 mm obeche hardwood strip-wood (from SLEC) for this with a thin black plasticard caulking between the planks. This is what I did when I constructed the VMW Fire Tender and the result was very effective and visually pleasing.
Obeche has a pleasing grain, takes stain very easily and is also considerably cheaper than mahogany which I feel would be far too ‘dark red’ when finally lacquered.
an outer curved plank around the hull edge I had to cut this from 1.6mm obeche sheet to the correct shape and width as it would be impossible to bend a strip to this extreme curve. These also needed a section trimmed out to allow the bow gunwales to be positioned correctly.
Once both sides were cut and shaped I could then form the ply gunwales to the correct curve by my heating and bending process and glued them down to the deck. I understand that on the production kits these gunwales are now incorporated into the side skins which will make the construction a bit easier.
The remaining outer planks on the hull edges were made from straight lengths of obeche but required some easing cuts so that they could be bent to the curve of the hull. Hopefully these cuts will not be too noticeable in the finished deck.
When all the edge planks were glued in place I temporarily laid out the obeche planking strips with a thin strip of black plasticard as caulking and all held in place with masking tape. The centre plank was arranged to lie over the centre line from bow to stern. The setting out of the planks in this manner confirmed that the layout worked as intended and so I began fixing down the planking from the centre plank of the hull outwards with a fast bonding superglue and the process proved to be quite quick to complete. The side deck planks were equally straightforward but did require some to be carefully shaped in a tapered fashion at each end to fill the remaining gaps.
The rear deck was also planked by working out from the centre plank and thankfully the planking layout matched and followed the bow deck planking perfectly.
The surplus plasticard ‘caulking’ was then trimmed flush to the planks with a very sharp chisel and the entire deck rubbed down with my sanding plate until it was all perfectly smooth.
For those building this model that don’t feel confident enough to do ‘real planking’ will probably want to make use of the laser etched planking on the ply deck panels to achieve a similar result with very minimal effort, but I quite like the challenge of doing it the hard way and the benefit of a slightly better finish.
10 months ago by robbob
36” RAF fire/crash tender
36” RAF fire/crash tender
kit or made.
10 months ago by Boat660
Speedline 1/16 Severn Lifeboat....
10 months ago by Jerry1
Did you see my note about the 2 pound batteries? At the local battery and light bulb shop they
about $24 for each. I got my TWO for $22 from Walmart. Pays to shop around.
10 months ago by Joe727
Model Slipway - Sentinel
Or you can buy THE ORIGINAL if you like - nice quick Houseboat 😁
10 months ago by RNinMunich
Model Slipway - Sentinel
Anyone have a Sentinel Customs Cutter for sale? Please send PM with details, location, and price. Thanks
10 months ago by ModelHover
Model Slipway - Sentinel
There's kit for her here MH,
More info here, kit comes from Barnsley!
See pdf attachment.
77 Arundell Drive, Lundwood
Barnsley S71 5LE
Answerphone/Fax: 01226 - 715576
I think Sea Craft also do a kit, available from Harbor Models in the US.
Cheers, Doug 😎
10 months ago by RNinMunich
Looking for the Lesro Sprite kit or built if anyone has one sitting around.
10 months ago by Boat660
CNC boat kits...?
I'm doing the eShapeoko - I
a more rigid machine for general purposes, and I liked the fact that you could specify the X and Y axis lengths. For cutting model boat parts you rarely want something as wide as 1 foot - but you often want items of length greater than 1 yard. The eShapeoko has standard sizes as extreme as 15 inches by 60 inches, and can easily be extended. I've gone for 18 x 36 inches - should be fine for EeZebilts...
One of the things that's a bit annoying with GRBL is that it doesn't currently do tool radius compensation. I'm using an arduino with grbl as well, and if I cut my plans as drawn they will all be a tool radius out. I am currently looking to use a 0.5mm tool so the effect will be small - but if you know of a better driver interpreter...?
10 months ago by DodgyGeezer
Have just made a prototype of a fan forced smoker which seems to be working well (despite breaking the heater coil by moving it while hot, - had it apart, broke wire, screw and washer repair, not quite as hot) I bought a couple of Heng Long smokers (for R/C tanks or cars) to play with, for $10 NZ each(or 5.3 Euros to you Northerners give or take a yen) from Bangood and just bought another from Ebay. There seem to be 2 different models, as one has a long coil with a lamp wick draped over it, which is sitting in the oil reservoir, the other has a small coil inside a piece of heat resistant woven tubing (as you might find insulating toaster/heater wiring etc) which acts as a wick and that also sits in cotton wool in the reservoir, (this seems to be the better of the two) Tip - don't fill the tank right up, only enough to soak the cotton, element should be just out of the oil. The wick loads the element.
The better model seems to have a black top to the tank (also maybe either brown or black tank) and the other has a brown top and dirty brown tank. As with most of this stuff you won't know till you get it what it's going to be.
What I did was remove the tank and cut off the pump tube just in front of the screw lugs (see black line in photo) then fitted the tank, and a 40x40x10 5v ESC fan (voltage controlled by a UBEC set to 5v on the jumpers) into a plastic electronics utility box from Jaycar (our local electronics and hobby store). I made up a double JST lead for the 2s 1800Mah Lipo and fired it up (using baby oil). it's pretty much silent and smokes well once it gets warmed up, ( starts smoking in about 5 seconds)
You could control it (on/off volume) by either a remote on/off switch or perhaps a small cheap 10A brushed ESC. I would leave the fan running and control the element to avoid burning the element. The original pump tank inlet hole seems ok as is (approx 1.5mm) but you could enlarge it very slightly to get a better flow if you could find a better oil. At the electronics store they have proper smoke machine oil for $20 NZ per litre so I may have a look at that.
The reason I went for the fan idea was that I found in std pump form, if I immersed a tube from the tank in water, it sucked water back into the tank. I was hoping it would pump smoke out of my HSL exhausts at water level alongside the cooling water but it would need a very light non return valve to do this. The fan seems to pump the smoke through 2mm ID silicone tube ok, so tubing of similar ID to the OD of the tank outlets should work well.
These pumps in original form work pretty well for the price, and are cheap enough to keep a few for spare elements, the only thing is they are a bit noisy but in an 'engine sounding' way, (might add to the effect on a tug or work-boat though) What you have left after this mod is a very handy little geared motor with an eccentric output wheel which could be used for winches, radar and whirly bits of any description (see pic of motor leftover and original) To avoid burnout, these should be run on no more than a 2s (around 7.5v-(suggest 8v max with fan running)
The other tank is going to work a lot better than this one but I'm not making a tug, just want a bit of exhaust smoke on start-up etc to go with the 2 sound units. Very cheap to make (around $25 NZ with pump, box, fan and UBEC all through Ebay, Aliexpress and Bangood (and local electronics store)
to run an ESC to control the smoke and you have no channels left to control it proportionally, you can always try using a second receiver bound to your TX, (if your TX will allow it,) power it and a brushed ESC (wired to the element) as normal and use the throttle channel to plug in your smoke control. This should work if you want more smoke as you accelerate or if you are using only 1 stick on a 2 stick TX you could use your 'elevator' stick pushed up (or a toggle switch if available) to start/stop the smoke (through the brushed ESC setup) . This setup weighs 100g (10g more than std)
The quest for lots of smoke continues Will try to upload vid later and update progress.
10 months ago by jbkiwi
HMS Campbeltown 1941, 1/96 scale
Thankyou Nerys for your very kind words 😊👍
'One does what one can!' 😉
HMS Manxman is one of my favourite ships and the subject of my next major project. I have the 1/96 scale Deans marine kit.
Her history has always fascinated me. Built my first 1/600 Airfix model of her many many moons ago!
Should you happen to have any photos of her in the Medway I would be most grateful if you could post them or mail them to me👍
Re 'the wealth of information'; comes from having spent over thirty years working in naval communication systems for navies and shipyards around the world. Many of the projects were refits of ships which were built towards the end of WW2. Such as the ex RN Colossus class carrier I worked on in Rio de Janeiro. Ex Vengeance then NAeL Minas Gerais. Pics show her as built as Vengeance and as rebuilt / reconfigured as Minas Gerais as I knew her in the nineties.
Through that work I developed a knack for research; if I didn't know something about a ship or a COMMS process that a customer
I damn soon found out. Was essential to stay ahead of the competition 😉
It also gave me an undying interest and insatiable curiosity about the history of the ships and the men who sailed and fought in them.
My first working model was a scratch build of the H class destroyer HMS Hotspur which I built at 1/72 from measurements taken from a 1/600 Airfix kit, when I was 15! 52 years ago now 🤔 See penultimate pic, shows her alongside my 1/72 Type IIA U-Boat. A contemporary of Hotspur, both commissioned in 1936. Last pics are of her maiden voyage in Radnor Park Folkestone in 1966. Sorry, only had a Brownie 127 camera back then 😁
Her history, from Narvik to Dominican Republic was also very chequered and eventful. Like Manxman, despite being severely damaged several times she survived until the early seventies.
Apart from the Manxman kit I have recently found a 1/350 kit of the Colossus class carriers. So I promptly bought two of 'em. One I will build as the original HMS Vengeance, the other I will try to reconfigure as NAeL Minas Gerais with an angled flight deck etc. Wish me luck 😉
Good luck with all your projects Nerys and All the very best for 2019.
Cheers, Doug 😎
BTW; footnote to SS Peking; German TV recently showed the old Miss Marple film 'Murder Ahoy' in which the Peking was used for the external scenes as the Training Ship Battledore. An amazing coincidence, following so soon after your enquiry!
10 months ago by RNinMunich
Totally agree with all points mentioned👍, another way is to make a note of the things you need, now and in the future i.e. glue, fittings,paint etc, and then visit the model boat shows advertised around the UK, some are close, others not, for me I like Doncaster show, Haydock and Blackpool, going to shows allows you to choose from various traders and cherry pick the bits you want, it works for me along with the internet for items
10 months ago by Rookysailor
anything to help me complete a Graupner Collie. Plans, drawings, part kits please ? Thank you .
11 months ago by wmbc40
Hatch & Tow Bitts
Last night I started on the large hatch that will cover the entire deck opening rather than several hatches, this is to keep with simple approach. The pilot house and whatever else I decide to add will be attached to this for easy removal and access for battery charging and maintenance. it's not as easy as a flat deck hatch as I curved the deck and
to curve the hatch as well. See photos, I cut curved sides, then I clamped it to blocks on the bench to bend , glued and let dry for 24 hours.
While that's setting up I started on building some tow bitts. These I am making from styrene that I had from my railroad scratch building. See two small for aft and 1 larger at the bow that is in progress.
In addition, I showed some shots of my Brooklyn Tug Bitts. These are heavy duty and were made of brass!
Still enjoying this simple build..... Joe
11 months ago by Joe727
Sailing Ship Peking
That's exactly the sort of information I
, many thanks. As you know, my sister and I have a personal interest in Peking, having spent many years with her, as Arethusa, being a background to our home and our father his entire teaching career on board her.
11 months ago by Nerys
Merry Christmas and a Happy New year.
🎄🎄 Merry Christmas 🎄🎄 everyone!
Thank you all too for another fantastic year. Thanks to everyone who's supported the website and donated. Soon you'll all see a brand new, faster and easier to use website. Development has been going on across the year, so fingers crossed there will be a launch soon 😉
It's all your continued support that makes upgrades possible 👍
Have a super day, hope Santa brings everything you
🎅 and enjoy your times with family & friends.
11 months ago by Fireboat
Re syringe method. I just tried several sizes of hyperdermic needle to get the rivet size more or less right. Then ground off the sharp point on the needle and used the PVA undiluted with the needle positioned vertically above where I
the rivet to be. This prevented any elongation of the rivet and I only had to worry about the size being extruded. Good point about the temp...that could definitely have been a factor here!
11 months ago by Joburg-sailor
Sea Queen Frames
Sorry a bit off the original topic but here's a picture of my Swordsman build underway, ready for skinning.
I made quite a few modifications to the drawings because I
the aft cockpit version at a scale of 1:12 and added a spine and "fingers" to help with construction.
11 months ago by ChrisF
This Swede Johnson and his yawl and its captain, Popeye. Swede pasted away several years back, I
to post this in his memory. He scratch built all of his boats over the years and was well know for his leading edge designs like the US1 Meters and Marbleheads. He taught me to scratch build boats and sails. Yes, Popeye's arm moves with the acting tiller.
11 months ago by Joe727
HMS BRAVE BORDERER
Back to the build. Next milestone, to complete the superstructure and engine covers. The superstructure is essentially a cowl that supports the open bridge and serves as the air intake for the gas turbines. The engine covers fit into the rear of it.
The superstructure is full of curves and will be interesting to make. Still trying to save weight, decided to make it out of glassfibre. Rather than first make a plug then a female mould and finally the cowl,
to try the technique of making a plug out of styrene foam sheet, then covering it in a glass fibre matt. Once the glass fibre is set, the foam is dissolved out using a solvent and the cowl remains – inshallah!
To ensure the foam did not react to the glass fibre resin, painted the finished cowl with enamel paint before sticking the matt down. See pictures.
What a mess! The resin had crept under the paint and into the foam dissolving it. When the
resin dried the plug had shrunk slightly and had the surface finish of a quarry. First thought was to hurl it and start again, this time in wood.
On second thoughts, wondered if the plug could still be used. Decided to build it up with wood filler and from it make a female mould, as originally intended. The cowl would then be made from the mould. Built the damaged plug up and sanded it smooth. As the plug would be covered in fibreglass, the surface finish was not critical. Brushed a coat of fibreglass on the plug and, after drying filled any defects with glaze putty and sanded smooth.
Once the finish and dimensions were satisfactory, applied a thicker coat of glass fibre to the plug. This was again smoothed down, waxed with carnauba polish and then covered in mould release. From it the cowl was made.
Picture shows plug, mould and cowl placed side by each. The cowl requires reinforcement; the fittings and various mountings then adding before installing. A trial installation showed that it fitted properly the deck and was accurate.
A lesson for the next time is to make the plug and mould much deeper than the finished item. That will allow any rough edges, on either the mould or the component, to be trimmed off leaving a smooth fibreglass edge.
11 months ago by RHBaker
Broads River Cruiser Yachts
Many thanks Guys, yes we did a trial business in 2016, to test the market 'Broadland Classics'. The initial runs sold with real enthusiasm, and reported back to us the best they had ever had as kits, however, sadly, my own failure was being far to fussy on getting every kit out more than perfect, and treating the kits as so individual to every customer per real commissions, that I slowed down the production process massively, thus creating self worries on demands, which I became concerned if we could not keep up with supply. We were so lucky to have gained the original lines plans from these classics life sized craft, but I had to make a decision, and following our one year trial, ceased, which I recognise broke many potential customers hearts. I was simply not prepared to do mass production in the sense of same, same. Every customer to us had to have their kits as though the real thing, beyond perfect,a commissioned kit if you like. I know perhaps crazy, but there you go, it is what we strived for and just took far longer than any other kit manufacturer to produce.
We are looking at way of perhaps re-producing the kits that people may enjoy, or even do commissions, but just need to carefully think it all through one final time. Being we have the complete rights to the designs in model form, there is no rush from our part against competition, and of course only we know every real detail imposed on the real Broads craft to relay to every kit.
Lots to think about all over again, but it has finally come to light following lots of enquiries of our kits, that we simply
to show them in their pride and glory here.
Cheers to you all.
12 months ago by NorfolkBroads
After a long lay-off, not requested or
. The call of the sawdust was here again.. Looking back at the Gentlemans Cruiser, i decided to start afresh with its sister ship, Elizabeth.
She is a hard chine construction so was hoping to get her to water in record time. But the gremlins set in when the hull had to be skinned.. The bottom skins did not want to play ball, or maybe it was me on a not so good day, but persevered and then planked the bottom in Obechie 6mm x 3mm, and then fitted the side skins vertical grained, and i must admit they fell on, no grunting and moaning with the hull frame in a half nelson trying to bash home a few pins, it was like hanging wallpaper..
The basic hiull is not as drawing with built up bulkheads but the keel and bulkheads are 5mm ply. Chines are 3/8" x 1/8" spruce and Obechie, obechie to the outer edges, easier to work.
1 year ago by muddy
My other hobby
Yeah! Doug, I think about it now and wished I had continued. in
1979 my wife (at that time my fiance) and I, went to Doncaster light aviation club to see a Piper Cherokee that was for sale.(very cheap), when I saw it, I realised why the price was so low....all the interior had been fitted out in.............PINK FUR!!!! it was Cr**. Then a friend of mine asked if I
a 1/4 share in a Grumman Traveller stored at Barton in Manchester, it sounded good, but only getting the aircraft on days the other's didn't want was not good with me, so I bought an E type, with kept me amused for a while😊
12 months ago by Rookysailor
My other hobby
Greetings Hellmut1956. Missed my PPL by two hours in 1978. Was asked by the service engineer name Bob at Blackpool Aerodrome if I fancied having a lesson two or three times a week, as he
to teach but needed to collect the hours required. I had a band at Pontins holiday camp, and Bob used to come in the bar nearly every night, and asked if I liked the idea of learning to fly👍
The question was 'How much', no charge just sign my teaching sheet, so 30hrs in a Cessna 150, very nice , but the season ended Oct 30th 1978, and I needed two more hours, but without an aircraft! why bother.....
Wished I could have had a video recorder to keep the memories.
12 months ago by Rookysailor
Constructing 'The Box'
Phil Smith, the original designer of the Thames River Police Launch, based the construction on a rigid box structure around which bulkhead formers are fixed to give the hull it’s shape, a design feature of many of the Veron kits.
In the Vintage Model Works kit all the components of this box are laser cut and require no additional trimming before assembly, I have used Titebond 2 aliphatic glue throughout the construction as it bonds wood very firmly and dries quickly too.
I started by joining the edges of the two sheets of balsa that form the base of the box, these were held firmly together with some scrap wood and weighted down on the cutting mat and left to dry.
Meanwhile the box sides were similarly glued together taking care that the two pieces that form each box side are in perfect alignment using the laser etched vertical lines that mark the bulkhead former positions, these were also wedged together and weighted while the glue set.
Once the bottom and sides are dry the ends can be added to complete the box construction, a try-square was used to check the box for accuracy and everything was held together with some ‘push pins’ while the glue set.
As this box forms the foundation of the hull it’s essential that there’s no twist or anything out of square.
This was all done in one evening, clearly the assembly of this kit could be completed quite rapidly if you really
12 months ago by robbob
HMS BRAVE BORDERER
Thanks jbkiwi and RN in Munich for your suggestions:
Have never used Ali Express, those components look interesting. Will follow up. I have used a battery alarm of the type suggested and it does work well. Have a couple for use once back on water.
The rule about adding a capacitor into the ESC circuit is new to me. Have ferrite rings fitted so will now explore adding capacitors too. Are these is series or parallel with the wiring?
The relays are not used with diodes or any electronic gubbins.
to make the circuit as simple as possible for a Mechanical Engineer, so used one separate relay per ESC. The relay operation is controlled by a RC switch off another Rx channel. it seems to work. Am aware of the back feed possibilities and hope to have avoided them with the separate circuits. Appreciate any thoughts though, can add diodes if necessary.
Am using a new FLYSKY 10 Ch. Tx/Rx on this model which opens up a host of programming opportunities. Am experimenting with various features such an the interval between Fwd/Rv also limiting ESC response. As am now using the brushless motors essentially in unison, also toying with controlling the 2 x ESCs on a “Y” lead on a single control.
Much to think about, pity our winter has arrived early and the pond has been converted to a skating rink.
12 months ago by RHBaker
to build a WW11 oil tanker of the type my father skippered during the war. it’s named after a tanker he left to go on leave. The crew didn't want him to leave as he would take their luck. it lies off the west coast of Scotland, the captain, a friend of the family, going down with her. it's not the actual Cadillac as it was an older ship, artistic license!
12 months ago by oldcodger
just need cable (wire)...
the soft floppy silicon covered wires, so Halfords wouldn't do.
Doug, the odd thing is that when I worked in Germany as a clay modeller, I was often given hard modelling jobs (not clay) which usually meant making complex little mechanisms. So much so that I became known as Mechanical Martin or just "Mekanist".
Yet back home fitting all the worky bits to a model boat or even a slot car/model railway loco is the bit I hate! Don't know why, except maybe in the boats/slotcars/locos there is a certain way of doing it which I find a drudge and in the clay studios there was always an element of invention required. indeed I am the nominated inventor on a VW patent!
But, I have run out of space for storage boxes and can only rarely get to a decent pond to run anything, so I am going over to static models only now. 1/24th scale models of mahogany hot rods (woodies), some in scenic set-pieces, maybe. But I'll finish the models I have on the go first.
1 year ago by Westquay
Don't have a direct answer but would suggest you check the instructions and find the max card size you can use. A 64 card would pretty much cover anything you
to do and they are not expensive.
1 year ago by steve-d
RC....mixers? And other unknowns..
I recently tried 2 ESC(s) into one battery connection then into 2 channels of the radio. Received wisdom said that one of the red leads to the radio should be disconnected. This I tried and one ESC ceased to function. So to prevent un
feeding on the positive lead from one ESC to another I fitted a diode to each of the ESCs. if you were to do the same I think your setup would work. However if your TX has mixing capability then why not use that ability to mix rudder with the 2 outboard motors so you have the added steering of the 2 outer motors? Any how fit the diodes please this should prevent the ESCs damaging each other its a simple job
20 diodes for £1 the silver band is positive so goes towards receiver plug.