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    Blog
    Splitting The Hull.
    I had a busy weekend planned. It was time to split the hull. It is fair to say that I had been looking forwards to having a go at this. I had made the special tools last week ready for the split. The first job was to try to fix down the hull to a board perfectly level and rigid enough to ensure that it did not move during the cutting phase. The first thing was to find a suitable flat board, 12mm marine ply, and stick a 1โ€ strip of sandpaper right down the middle to help to reduce the risk of the hull sliding. This done, I placed the hull roughly central on the board and marked out the positions for the anchor points for the elastic bands and screwed them in. I used standard hooks for this. The bands, two at each end, were fitted. It was surprising just how rigid this was but the hull could still slide. To stop this, I had bought some angle brackets. They were to be screwed onto the board, one each side at the centre of the hull. These proved top be very weak and I could still move the hull. A search of the garage followed to find something suitable and I came across two Krick motor mounts which were left over from the Dusseldorf motors. I screwed these to the board and the hull was rigid. I fitted the Dremel to the special tool with four cable ties. These held it very well. I then set the height on the marker pen and tested it at each end of the weld line chosen as the split point. It was around 3mm out at one end so I placed two large
    washer
    s at one end under the hull and this gave me level. I then checked to see if the hull was level across the width and twisted it until the pen made a mark at the same height on both sides using the weld line on the model as a point of reference. I them marked a cut line along both sides of the hull. Next up was to set the height of the slitting saw using the previously drawn line. This done, I then very carefully cut the side walls taking care to only taking shallow cuts as the Polystyrene melts very easily if heated. I did this in stages leaving the hull connected at each end, behind the bands and about ยฝโ€ in the centre to ensure stability when cutting the other side. I completed the cuts on both sides and then remove the hull from the board. The remaining sections still joined were then carefully cut with a 12โ€ hacksaw blade. Success!! I had two pieces. I then roughly cleaned up the cut joints and placed the two halves together. It was good. Finally, for today, I made and fitted a support brace at the stern end of the deck piece as cutting into two had left this area weak. Next time I will improve the cut surfaces, put locking devices on the deck half and location tabs to aid alignment. Thanks for reading. Peter.
    4 years ago by MouldBuilder
    Blog
    Winch Linkage
    For the linkage system I used 8mm x 1mm brass sheet, the first piece from the servo I tapped a M2 hole at servo end with a flat
    washer
    between the servo this is then adjusted for free movement and secured with a lock nut. Second angle piece had both holes tapped M2 and again fitted with flat
    washer
    and fastened with locknut. The pivot piece I soldered a brass tube in centre as seen in photo also had to add spacer pillar of 10 mm to get correct height as a straight pull on pillar is required so no twist on pivot as with the magnet pull there is a lot of strain hence the reason for upgrading from micro servo to 3kg servo. This is fitted with thick
    washer
    and nyloc nut to allow free movement but not sloppy. The final part of the linkage is the most critical this is 2mm brass rod with a long thread for adjustment and ease of fitting, other end is 6mm dia x 2mm thick brass disc also tapped M2 and screwed onto the rod then soldered for for security. Next the two brass pillars one drilled for the rod the other solid both have 1mm shoulders and tapped M2 with the link approx 12mm between centres (may change according to servo movement) on top to move freely on pillars. The hole going through the motor mounting for the rod also tapped M2 with locknuts either side to keep secure. This must be exactly below the centre of the motor shaft to ensure a straight pull from the magnet drum. The operation of servo. When magnet is against chain drum and servo in neutral position inside pillar should be resting against disc on the rod. When servo moves to down position it should pull the the magnet totally free from the chain drum and allow the it to revolve freely the motor at this stage will also turn but if servo is fully over should not affect the free fall. When the servo is returned to neutral position the outside pillar will tap the disc on the rod and the magnet pull draws the magnet drum back home. Now when the servo goes to the raised position the linkage slides along but does not press on disc and the motor will be raising the anchor. Bother motor and servo are connected to same receiver plug. The speed controller allows inching of the anchor as it comes home. Adjusting servo movement on transmitter is not advisable as it will effect motor speed. Best to adjust linkage to get correct. Hope this is all clear any queries with this just ask and I will try to help. Elsrickle
    4 years ago by Elsrickle
    Blog
    Winch detail
    As you can see this is made mostly with printer but am sure could be made with wood or plastic. The base has a slot 8mm wide by 5mm thick a hole 1.8mm goes through it and the sliding motor mount 1.5mm wire is used as guide and holds the mount in place the wire is also held in position with the small keeper block. The mount must be able to slide freely with no tight spots. Pictures show wire in base and on mount. Next chain drum and drive disc have 2.1mm hole all the way through for 2mm brass shaft the 3mm hole drill 10mm deep in drive drum at motor end. The motor then gets fitted on sliding platform. On drive drum face drill 2 holes 6mm Dia and 3mm deep, 180 degs apart for magnets. These are then glued in with a bed of epoxy adhesive as in photo, where the 2mm shaft goes through drill a recess 5mm Dia and 2mm deep for cable drum retaining ring. Also drill a hole 1.5mm Dia about 5mm from end of motor side of drum and tap for M2 grub screw for holding motor shaft. Now fix drum on to motor. At chain drum side cut a thin piece of tin and glue to face of drum this I used super glue and a mall brass nail fitted for a bit of extra security as in photo. Two 1mm holes drilled through the centre length of the drum very close to the outside diameter and clear of centre shaft. A piece of copper wire can be fed through one hole the chain link fed through the copper wire and the wire is fed through the other hole then the two twisted together or soldered to hold chain in centre of drum. Now 2mm brass rod is pushed through the drum ( I fitted 2 x 2mm flat
    washer
    s at this point between mounting bracket and chain drum to ensure the drum did not rub on bracket) making sure sure the drum spins very freely the rod is pushed through the hole in the motor drum until it meets the motor shaft then push hard to slide the motor to end stop. Now slowly push motor forward towards the chain drum (fully open gap between drum 7-10mm) when fully home fit holding sleeve on brass rod at outside of bracket and tighten grub screw this should give the correct length for rod. Now push motor back to end and make sure shaft is still in motor drum. If not adjust until it is still in shaft Next push chain drum back against
    washer
    s and shaft pushed towards motor make a saw cut in brass rod to mark drum position now remove shaft and make a brass ring to fit tightly on saw cut on shaft and solder then clean all solder from chain drum side of shaft refit and check drum still runs freely adjust as required when sure cut off brass rod as photo The base I made is 120 x 50mm x 5mm, chain drum 30mm x 25mm Dia, mountings were 28mm high x20mm wide. Will continue with linkage setup next. Any questions or ideas please feel free to let me know.
    4 years ago by Elsrickle
    Response
    Re: YET ANOTHER SMOKER VERSION
    You are right about the frustration Graham, still waiting for these pumps which arrived in the country 6 days ago and are supposed to be in transit (probably on a tour of the country๐Ÿ˜ ) As I mentioned, it's only a 40 min drive to the airport from my place, so what's the hold up???๐Ÿ˜ โšกโšก๐Ÿ˜ . They should start sending texts to people to give them the option of picking the goods up. Problem is there are too many couriers doing their own thing in their own areas and transferring goods multiple times before they get to the customer. They seem to get to the airport, go through customs, get picked up and taken to a central airport sorting area, bulk courier picks up whatever his company delivers, takes them to their sorting area, another smaller courier picks up and takes them to your local area sorting place, then to another courier (or postie for small packages) to your house. Appears totally inefficient to me, just making work and quad handling everything. Used to take a day to get a letter from o/seas once it arrived in the country. We hardly have a post box now except outside post offices, and they have closed most of them as well, and just have 'agents' (ie service stations/ shops etc) Don't know how they expect older or immobile people to travel miles to post a letter if they don't drive?? Used to be a post box on nearly every corner years ago. I have to drive 2km to the PO to post a letter, (used to just walk 100m till they removed that box a year or so ago.) They want to close our local PO which covers a huge number of people in our area (around 10,000) which is just ridiculous. Banks have also closed all their smaller branches round the country and even removed money machines in some cases, and left people having to travel for hours to the nearest machine or branch. Companies, (like Telcos/power companies) hide in offices and won't talk to you except through a call center in the Philipines or India (even though the company may be 1km away- had that with my new crap Samsung washing machine recently, until I found the local service center number and 'targeted' them,- refused to talk to some Filipino girl who knew nothing, and would ring NZ for info and call you back in 1 or 2 days, - beyond ridiculous!!!๐Ÿ˜ ๐Ÿ˜ ๐Ÿ˜  ) You have to get angry to get results these days with large companies, (got results with my
    washer
    when I told them I'd put it on the side of the main road with a big sign saying "don't buy this crap")๐Ÿ˜Š๐Ÿ˜‚ JB
    4 years ago by jbkiwi
    Response
    Re: SEAPLANE TENDER STAND ADDITION
    Hi All. Interesting debate๐Ÿ˜‰ All I can say is that my experience with lithium grease, whatever the colour, is that it will over time cake and stick to the walls of the tube. Had similar experience using it in car wheel bearings โ˜น๏ธ Seems to be due to the nature of lithium, i.e. plates, which slide over each other to provide the 'lubrication effect'. But it don't last. Eventually the stuff dries out and the plates stick together. Coagulation ๐Ÿ˜ญ I now use Gear-Flon, a PTFE/TEFLON grease from Dupont. Bought mine from Krick here in Germany. I squish it in under pressure with an oversize syringe.๐Ÿ˜‰ You can also find it on Amazon etc. https://www.amazon.de/GEAR-FLON-Hochleistungsfett-mit-Teflon/dp/B00UI0AS40?language=en_GB Cheers, Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž PS To JB: I also inject some into ball races, until it extrudes from the other side, before fitting them!๐Ÿ˜‰ PPS: Almost forgot๐Ÿ˜ฎ I also fit a dished oil saver
    washer
    between the shaft tube and the thrust
    washer
    . A habit I got into while still using oils for shaft lubricants.
    5 years ago by RNinMunich
    Response
    Re: SEAPLANE TENDER STAND ADDITION
    RE- Yet another problem to sort jb, No problem really Peter, more just a slight nuisance. All of my boats weep oil slightly and it's a bit like the old British motorbikes (BSA, Triumph etc) saying, 'when they stop leaking oil it's time to put more in' (my BSA B31 and B40 were prime examples)๐Ÿ˜€ Thanks for the offer on the grease, appreciated, but we have all the different types available here. Probably not allowed to send it these days anyhow!) - nothing remotely flamable,-couldn't even buy a new empty, fluid type Zippo styled lighter on line for my son, had to buy an electronic one! The Lithium is quite good for most things and there is also a similar one which is Calcium Sulfonate, which has even better properties but a bit more expensive and not really warranted. Have included a pic of some SKF grease which looks good but the main problem I have with using grease is getting it into the shaft tube and through the bearings (with shields), and once you put it in you can no longer use oil and will have to try and clean it out before doing that again. A small problem with plain white lithium grease is that it can go hard and 'cake' with age, although if the shaft tube is full it would help stop water getting in as you said. Very little oil weeps out when running as the Teflon
    washer
    s on the shafts push up and close off the bearings. Only an issue in the car or at home (hence the tray) JB
    5 years ago by jbkiwi
    Forum
    Do you Hear there Promotion announcement
    Please welcome to the mess newly promoted WO Bryan-the-pirate. I have so many ranks as I'm a: Captain when operating a vessel, Commodore when with the local group. Warrant Officer on here and Chief cook and bottle
    washer
    at home.
    5 years ago by Bryan-the-pirate
    Response
    Re: Chine strakes and hull painting
    I like your exhaust treatment. I was trying to find a similar suitable surround for the pipes on my ST, but might have to substitute small drilled
    washer
    s instead, (a when I can be bothered job) JB
    5 years ago by jbkiwi
    Forum
    looking for plans
    Roves are like
    washer
    s only slightly domed. Copper nails are square sectioned. They were knocked through the two planks (or whatever), the rove put over the nail on the inside, the nail trimmed to about 1/8 inch and then tapped with the ball of a small hammer until it was flattened onto the rove, tightening it up and holding it on. The apprentice would be underneath the boat holding a lump of metal with a round protrusion, called a dolly, against the head of the nail so that it would not be knocked out by the work going on inside. There would be a nail about every four inches along the length of the plank. Hope that's understandable. Nerys
    5 years ago by Nerys
    Blog
    40'' Seaplane Tender, new build Z-2
    Just a few more bits made,-dash console, instrument panels, wheel and name decals. Wheel was made by gluing (thick cyno) a large thin fibre
    washer
    on to a strip of acetate sheet, then gluing the spokes and center on next, When set, the center segments were dremelled out (leaving the back supported) and outer excess trimmed and sanded, leaving a section to hold the wheel while painting. When dry the rest was removed and a stand-off piece glued to the inside center. Bit rough but it was an experiment to try and make one without soldering. Instrument panels were made from thin coloured Formica (a sample swatch which just happened to be lying on my drive after lots of wind and rain recently?? just the colour I needed!) and drilled with spur drills to get a neat hole. Found some pics of Gauges on line and reduced and printed them. Cut them roughly to size, glued them in position on some printing paper, then glued some Acetate sheet to each Formica panel, and glued that over the 'gauges' Console will be painted below the stained ply top section. The console is removable to enable the floor panels to be lifted, and it also hides a few wires to the receivers which come out of the floor. Throttle quadrant is just painted balsa with 2 glass headed pins glued in and painted. When finished it will be trimmed off the square stock and applied to the dash.
    5 years ago by jbkiwi
    Blog
    40'' Seaplane Tender, new build Z-1
    Didn't quite make it by Z but what the hell. Thought I'd throw a small bit of progress in as there seems to be a bit of a building lull lately. Made the rear wheelhouse partition and 'louvre' door, and 4 cleats, which I think look too small (ran out larger of brass rod) but are made with the vertical stem going through the
    washer
    as a pin, and are not yet glued in. Finished the rear cockpit trimming and internal water diverting coamings, and done one side of the boot topping to try and tidy up the waterline, (the masking tape all seems to be crap and bleeds - unless you want to spend $18 for 'professional' stuff which is probably just as bad!) Hard to find thin trimming tape these days as well, so have to cut your own to go round tight curves. Used to use thin dope to seal the edges years ago (on coloured doped aircraft) but will melt the acrylic and leave a raised edge, which I won't be painting up to. You have to do a number of really light coats if you want to stop it bleeding, and run a blunt tool along the edge really firmly beforehand (still not good enough really). Could have used pin-striping tape but that leaves a raised stripe (scale waterline would be about 1"thick) also $15 a roll with 90% left over (bit of a waste). I also roughly superimposed the model on the original photo to see how it compared. The original is a late model MK 1 narrow hull, but I went with the Mk 2 41'6" version with the longer wider hull (to have more internal room to play with) but with the coamings, masts etc of the original. The MK 2 has a more pronounced 'Clipper' bow with more flare and is wider 'midships' but the wheelhouse is pretty similar. There ain't no one to worry about the accuracy these days as there are few good photos of the original (pretty well just mine and a friends fuzzy super 8 captures) so it's just a rough crack at it (also using a bit of the old 'poetic license'). Will email a pic to the current owner when I've finished and see what he thinks. Just have dash and wheel to do now (I think - bound to have missed something) Oh, that's right, - the rear cockpit canvas and dinghy! (I knew that๐Ÿ˜)
    5 years ago by jbkiwi
    Forum
    What connector to use?
    Have tried many of these ideas, but have settled on a different approach. Since standardizing on LI-PO cells and been concerned about the reports of self immolation and fire have decided to always transport the cells separate from the vessel. This means my deck and wiring should be readily removable to install and remove the cell. Using two wire brush type connectors off a slot car fed the +ve and negative wire through the deck connecting to the brushes. On the underside of the superstructure soldered mating wires onto brass
    washer
    s. Whenever the deck is screwed down a good connection is established.This feeds battery voltage into the superstructure which contains all the control circuitry for lights, scanners etc. Even I cannot forget to disconnect the connecting wires now!
    5 years ago by Rowen
    Forum
    Transport System for model boats
    Yes - you use
    washer
    s. Just one needed at the rear, because a pop rivet already has a rim. This is a common technique. Pick a light rivet and it won't compress the plastic much. For the handle bolts I use a little 4mm spacer, as the web page shows. I use these for EeZeBilts, which are typically light - but the biggest one I have carries nearly 20kg, with spare batteries and radio and everything inside. A kid can sit on them - indeed, I have done so on occasions. You use the 4mm thickness, but if you really want to use them as seats you would probably be better off with 6mm. Of course, if you wish you can build a wooden frame inside if you want to carry something really heavy. What I like is the cost. You can get 5 sheets of 8ftx4ft on ebay for less than ยฃ50 - that's ยฃ10 per sheet with free delivery. If you go to your nearest stockist (look for 'twinflute') and carry them away they will probably be ยฃ5 per sheet. And you can typically get 4 boxes out of a sheet. The cost of a strap handle and some clasps is minimal (a few quid on ebay), so you are looking at a custom-sized box for a fiver or less. Means that you can box ALL your boats at low cost, and then stack them away under beds or out in the shed. I must have a dozen or so of these piled on top of each other... and they are very light, so you are not carrying any extra weight apart from the boat... Incidentally, I've standardised on these toggle clips - they seem to work the best... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Case-Box-Stainless-Steel-Spring-Loaded-Toggle-Latch-Catch-Clip-6pcs-Y6U9/323801617239?hash=item4b64149357:g:3S0AAOSwhMJc004r
    5 years ago by DodgyGeezer
    Blog
    quite a while since last update
    it been quite a while since the last update, holidays, work, sun shine etc all got in the way we have done some amount of work on the model in past few months mostly around the running gear and some electrics Made up a platform on which all of the main electric components will sit on, these include the 2 batteries (6 volt for the steam and lighting) 7.2v for the motor. also on the platform will be the smoke/steam generator, motor, ESC, receiver and at the back the Servo for the rudder. platform made out of MDF and sealed up and then re-enforced with wood strips before fixing the platform inside the huil (permanent fixing) did a "Bath" test to add ballast to the hull as you would imagine that it rides high without anything expect for the platform/batteries and paddles. used Car wheel weights as ballast as you can go done to the nearest gram with those as well as stick on on where needed. once ballasted (not fully as need to put superstructure and deck fittings on before the final a ballast glues (epoxy) the platform, into place (with the ballast under it) we can still put extra to the sides and bow/stern worked out where the Servo is going to go, fitted that to the rear of the platform and used 2 rods to goto the rudder arm added 3 switches to a small shelf on the platform, these will be the main ESC/Motor Power switch, one switch for the steam and 1 for the lights. Also ensured we can get to the 2 battery leads fore charging Added the Navigation lights (and wiring) to the wheel boxes as well as wiring up the small set of lights we have in the engine cover. as we are looking at a removable deck (so the whole thing comes off rather then just sections of the deck)on it if we need to get to the stuff like battery/motor etc we can. looking for a solution pointed me to look at the metal clips that are used to hold car speakers into place in car doors etc, basically a slide on spring clip with a hole one side and a grooved hole the other to screw into. drilled the hole in the deck where needed (8 holes in the main deck and 2 in the stern for the rudder area.) drilled holes in the GRP platform on which the deck rests, clipped the metal clips to the hull/desk rest, i have glued some small metal
    washer
    s to the top of the deck to protect it then we can basically screw the deck to the hull (and remove) without damaging the deck or hull and we are screwing into metal clips and and pulling the deck to the metal clips next thing to do is look at fixing the wheel boxes to the deck, the a way of fixing (but being ale to remove) the house house if needed. then lights and wiring of as we are looking at getting lights to the wheel house as well as a few other places at the same time putting other the deck fittings (Mast, work/life boats) etc once all that done a final ballast, tighten all of the various bolts/screens, charge battery and test sailing (could take a while as working on this slowly)
    5 years ago by barryskeates
    Blog
    New drive Train and Oiler
    Most of this actually took place last August / July! Regular readers may have seen that when Dad built this boat in the 60s he put a Taycol Target field motor in it. About 25 years ago I put a Decaperm and 'modern' transistor ESC in her to provide forward and reverse. Performance was sedate to say the least. I have since modified the Taycol (see below) so it can be run forward and reverse and decided to put it in an ancient Billings Boats Danish fish cutter (Gina) that I inherited from an Aunt. The cutter is badly in need of renovation (see pic 1) and the Taycol will be more suited to her performance requirement! On advice from Canabus in Hobart I obtained a Propdrive 2830 1000kV brushless motor, appropriate ESC and a 35mm 3 blade prop from Raboesch. Pic 2 shows the old and new motors. Next step was to trial fit new motor mount, coupling and prop. Pics 3 &4. While doing this it became obvious that a new shaft was in order, as mentioned in last update. Soooo, - appropriate stainless steel rod, thrust
    washer
    s and set ring were acquired and back to the workshop. After cutting to length to accommodate the new coupling type a 3mm thread was cut a the prop end. At the inboard end I milled recesses for the grub screws in the set ring and the coupling, pics 5 - 7. I don't like to just file(or even mill) flats for the screws cos they have a tendency to slip and work loose๐Ÿ˜ก Trial fitted the new shaft and found I'd boobed a bit with the measurements and need extra thrust
    washer
    s to make up the difference. ๐Ÿ˜ฒ Pic 8. No sweat, they came in a pack of 50 anyway๐Ÿ˜Š You can also see in this pic that I decided to fit an oiler pipe while everything was in bits anyway.๐Ÿ˜‰ To solder it on in a cramped space without setting the boat on fire ๐Ÿ˜ก I packed a wet rag underneath and used a gas Kitchen Torch! Known as a 'Gas Gourmet Burner'. Yep, those handy little gas torches like your Missus uses to melt the brown sugar on her Crรจme Brรปlรฉe!! So do I, delicious ๐Ÿ˜œ๐Ÿ˜‰ The torches are not expensive, small, very handy, refillable with lighter gas and can be adjusted to a very small hot flame. ideal for this job. See pics 9 & 10. Pic 11 shows the new motor & mount, shaft and coupling all trial fitted after using a brass alignment tool I quickly made up on the lathe. Pic also shows the trial electrical installation after cleaning up the 'machinery compartment' a little and painting with silver Hammerite. A Quickrun BL ESC is sitting in the bottom in one of the trays my Dad originally fitted for the 2 wet cell (very wet!) 6V lead acid batteries. The home made board on the left carries the battery and ESC connectors, main ON/OFF switch with LED, blade fuse holder with a 20A fuse and a green LED which tells me if the fuse is blown! Stuck on the walls (OK Bulkheads!) with so called Servo Tape are a 6 ch Turnigy iA6 2.4Gig RX and the arming switch for the ESC. Battery compartment is sized to fit 2S and 3S hard case LiPos. For trials I can fit my Wattmeter forward of the switchboard and splice it into the battery supply using Tamiya connectors. Might change these to XT60s later if current drain is more than 12 to 15A. All for now, all this was pulled out again preparatory to cosmetics on the hull, decks, cabin roof and walls inside and out. But that's another chapter so, 'Tune in next week, same time same channel when once again it's time for 'WHAT DO YOU MEAN BUCK RODGERS IS APPROACHING!? ๐Ÿ˜ Or 'The Saga of the Cabin Roof' ๐Ÿ˜‰ Cheers Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž BTW: After drilling the shaft tube for the oiler pipe I flushed it out with light machine oil (pumped in from a big syringe) and shoved a few pipe cleaners through (rotating them on the way) to remove any remaining drill swarf!!
    6 years ago by RNinMunich
    Response
    Re: Fitting shafts and motors
    I agree Peter, I get a lot of stuff from Krick as well. Prices are acceptable and delivery prompt. I have a few of those pumps (also used in car windscreen
    washer
    s). Found that they do tend to clog in murky waters but otherwise no problem. Funny, I'd forgotten the 'acrylate' part of Cyanoacrylate!! Got too used to calling it CA or Gluper Sue ๐Ÿ˜ Cheers, Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž
    5 years ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Prop size and speed
    Agreed Martin, one thing at a time! BUT: Stuart; I believe we are discussing your 24" Commander here. In which case your results mirror mine with my 24" Sea Scout. Except that my prop shaft did not bind!!๐Ÿ˜‰ It was also reluctant to plane with a 2S LiPo (7.4V nominal) but went very well and planed easily with a 3S (11.1V nominal). I also was using 4000mAH batteries. I published my results using various batteries here in the Media - Video section. Go to the Media Gallery and search for Sea Scout. So, I would leave the motor and prop alone and (after fixing the prop shaft!!!) try a 3S battery. I'm sure you will be satisfied ๐Ÿ‘ Prop technology is complex as Martin said, our old friend Bernoulli raises his head for instance๐Ÿค” But, essentially bigger is better for more speed or same speed with lower shaft revolutions when applied to real size ships. BUT 2: with our electric powered models bigger props often simply increase the load on the motor causing it to draw more current for a fractional increase in boat speed if any. In essence props with fewer blades are inherently more efficient as you hinted. Minimum being 2 of course ๐Ÿ™„ Two bladers are popular with the Fast Electric guys for that reason. I don't do speedboats, I'm a scale guy and my maxim is; If the real vessel had an XYZ screw then so will my model! Summary; first fix the propshaft; lubrication, alignment with motor shaft, ensure a few thou of clearance between prop hub / locknut and the end of the shaft tube. Preferably with a thrust
    washer
    in between. Second, fit a 3S battery preferably crosswise above the C of G of the boat. As you can see in the pic of my Sea Scout 'engine room' in your Commander thread. For those with a mathematical mind, undying curiosity and an afternoon to spare I attach a paper on the Principles of Ship Propulsion from MAN, the supplier of small to huge diesels to probably a majority of ships (commercial and naval) built today. You should find Chapter 2: Propeller Propulsion particularly illuminating! Happy reading ๐Ÿ˜‰ Just remember the paper deals with real ships and real water, we have scale ships but not scale water๐Ÿค” Basic dynamics still apply though. Cheers, Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž
    5 years ago by RNinMunich
    Response
    Re: Capping
    The main hatch is held down currently by the weight of the winch, it seems to be ding the job mainly due the the steel
    washer
    s being used as brake drums! I intend to put a raised hatch in the large hatch for access to the switches. Previously I have put a screw through the deck into a cross beam and then hidden by painting the same colour as the deck and covering with fish boxes as an example...
    5 years ago by GrahamP74
    Blog
    Trawl winch
    I have scratch built the trawl winch using a mix of metal
    washer
    s, bolts, cut Allen keys, wood and plasticard. Sprayed with a Spencer Carter / North Sea winch blue. Further detail will be added in the shape of hydraulic pipes and branding.
    5 years ago by GrahamP74
    Forum
    Hints and Tips.
    DECK FITTINGS Good one(s) DG๐Ÿ‘ I used a similar idea for the bollards on HMS Hotspur, made from short bits of alu tube with 2mm dome head screws through them. They also serve to hold the decks down. 2mm
    washer
    for the base. Visible on the extreme left of the pic. Plywood decks BTW were made from the recycled back of an old bureau ๐Ÿ˜Š Depthcharge throwers were made to John Lambert (RIP) plans from scraps of 0.3mm brass, 1mm copper wire and 5 and 8mm wood dowels. Very fiddly measuring the plans, scaling up and double triple checking the marking up of the thin brass bits. (Never mind the snipping!) But worth it I think. Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž
    5 years ago by RNinMunich
    Directory
    My Retirement Plans !!!
    Hi Everybody, Having decided to finally officially retire, I have been inundated with an assortment of wrecks, part builds, kits etc. As you can see from the attached photos I've divided them into 3 Groups, Military Leisure Craft and Sailing. The Military group consists of a 1:128 Scharnhorst, 2 x 1:24 E.Boats, an unidentified V & W Hull, 1:36 Perkasa, and a 1:144 wooden hull of HMS Victory. The Leisure Craft group consists 1:8 Fairey Huntsman, a 1:36 Billings Sampson II, 1:35 Billings Calypso, 1:24 Clyde Puffer / Tug, Narrow Boat. And the Sailing Boats Group consists of 2 x Unidentified R/C Yachts. Finally there is a concrete Narrow Boat Planter to paint...definitely will not float, it weighs 15kgs!!! So having been forced to give up gainful employment๐Ÿ˜‚ , (I was management so I could delegate), I now find myself back as general dogsbody, chief cook and bottle-
    washer
    . I'm setting up the Workshop, got a computer design area, a general workbench and a painting/ moulding table outside, the rest will be a 3D printer and scanner when funds permit and the wife wont miss a few bob from the holiday fund. So no quiet life for me!!! Can I go back to work please????? Steve
    5 years ago by boatiebennett
    Blog
    Bollards!
    The fittings supplied with the kit include some bollards for the deck but Iโ€™m less than impressed with them and decided to make my own by adapting some brass handrail fittings intended for locomotives. As readers of my blogs will know, I donโ€™t have a lathe but thereโ€™s a lot that can be achieved using a horizontal bench drill and files. The first job was to reduce the diameter of the base to fit inside a couple of steel
    washer
    s that were superglued together and then to the reduced base to form a large flange for the bollard. This was then spun in the drill and files used to radius the edges and blend them into the base. Some brass rod was then used to form the cross piece of the bollard, some tape the same width of the โ€˜ballโ€™ was used to protect the centre section and the outer end reduced to a taper with a file, finally the pieces were reduced to the correct length and the ends rounded off. The cross piece was then superglued into the bollard base and then all four were given a coat of etch primer and then two brushed coats of Tamiya gunmetal grey. There is another bollard on the foredeck and this is just a simple wooden post with a brass cross piece, itโ€™s fixed through the deck into the underlying structure by a brass pin.
    5 years ago by robbob
    Blog
    Lifeboat and Davits
    I looked at various options on how to construct a life boat using paper, balsa wood, etc. However through google I found a kit from China that would fit the bill. Duly ordered and delivered the kit consisted of thin mahogany parts pre cut with a laser. Instructions were basic however after a very fiddly construction the result was very effective. The davits were manufactured using brass sheet, tube, wire and
    washer
    s. Parts soft soldered together. Pulley blocks out of boxwood. More research showed that the boat while hanging under the davits were also secured to the tug using straps. I made these out of knicker elastic with wire eyes on each end.
    5 years ago by Hillro
    Blog
    Fore deck , Etc.
    The fore deck is made from 1.5mm Birch plywood. A template was made out of card. This was then transferred to plywood and cut out a little proud. The plywood was filed, sanded to give a good fit. Deck was then planked using 0.5 x 5mm mahogany strips left over from another project. Holes were drilled as require for anchor chains and lockers. The chain lockers are made from brass tube and brass
    washer
    s. The under deck was reinforced, between frame for the mast, etc. Deck then glued and pinned into position. When secure the winch was fitted in position including the chain locks (Don't know the nautical term)
    5 years ago by Hillro
    Forum
    Cheap motor for a quick fit, but what prop gents?...
    OK, found one, 'discontinued product' ๐Ÿค” Seems Tower pro only make gas engines these days. https://hobbyking.com/en_us/towerpro-brushless-outrunner-2408-21.html Specs "TP 2408-21 The most widely used towerpro motor available today. the 2408-21T is often used in GWS (means Grand Wing System, USA apparently!) upgrades. Paired with just an 18A besc, this motor is an excellent and cheap way to upgrade small planes to brushless. An RD1047, RD9070 or 8040 size propeller are the best choice, with the RD9070 and 8040 giving the best thrust and amp draw balance. For 2-3 Li-Poly Cells (7.2-12.6V) 31 mm diameter x 62 mm length Maximum current: 13A Weight: 50.2 grams / 1.77 oz Comes with stick mount plastic frame Firewall mount capable Comes with two prop nuts and one
    washer
    3mm shaft diameter 10mm x 10mm stick mount Kv: 1750 9 Stator Poles, 12 Magnets" So it's OK for a 3S LiPo, which will give about 19.400rpm OFF LOAD. Max current 13A ON LOAD. No way of finding the other little one without at least a hint๐Ÿค” Looks like an Outrunner plane motor as well. Suck it and see! Probably similar specs to the Tower motor. The two brushed ESCs should be good for your Taycols as none of them should take much more than 10A or so. Use 15A fuses, as I have already fitted to your converter boards.๐Ÿ˜‰ Bon chance mon ami, Cheers, Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž Re GWS; https://www.google.com/search?q=GWS+models&client=firefox-b&tbm=isch&source=iu&ictx=1&fir=Yy9FOffyN9znOM%253A%252Cm55UYJTjtHfuaM%252C_&usg=AFrqEzdcX_L57leaM37UXLA9kg6sVLbSag&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwiyo8mUnO_cAhUkB8AKHc_UDNEQ9QEwAnoECAYQBA#imgrc=Yy9FOffyN9znOM: Pic is a typical GWS small plane, called 'Slow Stick'. if I had one I would name it 'Spindle-shanks' ๐Ÿ˜
    6 years ago by RNinMunich
    Blog
    Make shift
    washer
    !
    It's said necessity is the mother of invention. Well, I looked at the top of zap-a-gap bottle top. Saw it was shaped like a 1/6" nylon
    washer
    . Drilled through the center and presto! One nylon thrust
    washer
    , made up! As soon as I have a chance. I'll go to the local Hardware store. And I will get some stainless steal
    washer
    s! Thank you, all for your valuable in put. It is well appreciated!
    6 years ago by figtree7nts
    Response
    Test fit the Rudder!
    Evenin' Ed, No! you need some kind of thrust
    washer
    between the prop / locknut and the end of the tube! Otherwise when full ahead the prop or nut will grind against the tube ๐Ÿ˜ก I would swap the thick nylon
    washer
    for a thin stainless steel
    washer
    . A good DIY store should have some. Should win you a mm or so. if the shaft moves back and forth more than that then something else is wrong. The movement on my Sea Scout shaft is about 20 thou max. Or as RH suggests you could use Loctite to secure the prop instead of the locknut. I would prefer the stainless
    washer
    . Cheers Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž BTW: I also fit
    washer
    s at the inboard end, between a collet and the tube. As shown in pic attached of my new Sea Scout installation. New propshaft was milled to lock the collet in place (Pic 2). Cocked it up slightly so I needed extra spacing
    washer
    s! ๐Ÿ˜ no one's perfect ๐Ÿ˜‰
    6 years ago by RNinMunich
    Response
    Test fit the Rudder!
    Looks a bit close for comfort to me ๐Ÿ˜ฒ As Colin says forward thrust will help keep it clear, but going astern might be tight??? Is that really a bush, or just a nylon
    washer
    ? If it is bushed into the tube to hold the shaft then I would be tempted to shave half a mil off the end of the tube. And/or file a slight dip into the leading edge of the rudder. If there is a bearing in the tube end and this is just
    washer
    I might reduce it's thickness on some wet n dry, or replace it with a thinner stainless
    washer
    . Cheers Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž
    6 years ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Too Powerful Brushless ?
    Hi, Thanks for the info Peter and Dave, very much appreciated! The hull is all wood. I will order an 1100kv motor and make sure there is Thrust
    washer
    's on the Propsharft. Thanks again Graham
    6 years ago by Traiderman
    Forum
    Too Powerful Brushless ?
    I have to agree with Peter's comments. I would also suggest that you look at the coupling and fitment of your prop shaft. it could be that the whole unit is seizing together. You also need to check it is true and free running. You need a prop and locknut followed by a thrust
    washer
    then at the inboard end a thrust
    washer
    locknut and coupling. There should be a gap between the thrust
    washer
    and bearing of a few thou', we used to use a Rizla paper, Make sure all joint are tight and that the shaft turns freely and smoothly. The motor need to be securely mounted to a good solid base and 100% aligned with the coupling and prop shaft. Personal experience tells me you don't get a second chance with brushless, you have been fortunate if it is only the prop tube has suffered. Is your hull wood, plastic, fibreglass? Whilst Araldite is a fine adhesive you may need to use Stabliz Express or UHU Acrylit Plus which provide an exceptionally strong joint. E-bay have sellers of UHU in the UK. Good luck and please keep us posted
    6 years ago by Dave M
    Forum
    Prop Shaft Grease
    I would add that it is important that you also have a thrust
    washer
    at each end of the propshaft. We used to use Rizla cigarette papers to gauge the clearance.
    6 years ago by Dave M
    Forum
    Motor problem
    Hi Richard, Good morning, Prop first, if the blade to hub is 30mm, it is a 60mm diameter prop, think of the circle of sweep, twice the size that your 550 motor can take. As the shaft is free running, we can discount drag, simply the motor working to extreme, so we need to prop down considerably, If you are staying with the 540 motor in the pics, a 35mm 3 blade prop is the maximum, a rough guide is no bigger than the motor diameter. I would save myself a lot of problems in the future and fit a larger motor, Canabus is right a watt meter will save its readings so you can get a proper idea what the motor is doing. I would swing towards the 850, or the 700. Not expensive but safe to run with a smaller prop. The 700 might fit your mounting but the 850 will need a new one, usually supplied in the box. The Sea Commander will serve you well as a great sailing model, once you are past the teething problems. Just looked back, your first post said the hull was built in the 60's, it might have a 4ba thread, not many ba props available these days, a 4mm prop will fit but it will be tight, don't forget the locking nut (to many props at the bottom of the lake) also a thrust
    washer
    to protect the motor bearings. Mark
    6 years ago by jarvo
    Forum
    Crash Tender Shaft Tube Poistion
    Hi Neil, (Old (Sea) Dogs can learn๐Ÿ˜‰). My pleasure, happy to help. Today (quite coincidentally!) I ran across a mathematical dissertation on the relationships between prop, rudder and hull (Yawn!) done by Marin Corp. for a symposium on 'Fast Mono-hulls'. Primarily naval. Full of Froude numbers and Lord knows what. But the upshot was that the optimum distance between prop and rudder should be 0.47 x radius of prop. So with my 30mm prop and 17mm distance I'm a 'bit' off๐Ÿค” 15x0.47=7.05. Shucks; where are my thrust
    washer
    s? Need a couple more ๐Ÿ˜‰ Never mind, I wanted to make a new shaft anyway, to fit the brushless upgrade mounting. Ho hum! Whatever - Have fun, Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž
    7 years ago by RNinMunich
    Blog
    The electrics, drive & radio
    The switch panel and wiring loom was made, tested and dry fitted a while ago and so it only needs securing to the bulkhead with four fixing screws, the two NiMh batteries were strapped down to the bearers with cable ties as close to the chines as possible and the XT60 connectors mated. I have read that placing the heavy batteries as far away from the keel as possible improves the handling, all other heavy items are centered along the keel for symmetry and should help the boat to sit evenly in the water. Iโ€™m not sure if I will need to do any ballasting, hopefully the maiden voyages should give me an indication. The prop shaft was greased and fitted, and with the prop, thrust
    washer
    s and lock nuts in place, the clearance was adjusted and locked with some Loctite so the motor could then be installed. The initial motor alignment was made with a solid coupler which was then replaced with the universal joint, I took the precaution to grind a flat on the motor shaft so that the locking grub screw has better grip on the shaft. The grease tube was then fitted to the shaft clamp and secured to the side of the switch panel. The ESC was fixed to the back of the bulkhead with another couple of cable ties and the input cables, again XT60 types, and the three pole XT60 motor connectors mated. I have also fitted a Turnigy in-line volt, amp and watt meter in the circuit before the ESC so that I can log readings in case of spurious fuse blowing issues or unexpected battery life problems. The water cooling tubes were then run from the water pickup, through the ESC and then back to the transom โ€˜exhaustโ€™ outlet, all water connections are fitted with spring clips to ensure water tight connections. I have used quite a large bore silicone tubing to ensure maximum water flow and made sure that all bends are kink and compression free. The R/C receiver is fixed to the rear cabin wall with some Velcro pads for easy removal, the two aerials were fitted in some plastic tubing at 90 degrees to each other as recommended for 2.4 gig systems and as high above the waterline as possible. The receiver is connected to a separate 4.8 volt NiMh battery via a changeover switch that also has a charging connection and LED power indicator, and I have also fitted a battery voltage indicator, just because they are cheap and convenient although the R/C system that I have has telemetry that reports RX voltage as standard. The battery charger I have chosen can handle the 16 cell series configuration of the drive batteries and so they can be charged in-situ when the main power switch is toggled over to the charge position. The RX and lighting batteries are charged separately. All of the servo and lighting switch cables are routed through the hull to the receiver through pre drilled holes in the bulkheads at high level for neatness and to retain the integrity of each compartment just in case ๐Ÿ˜ฒ!!. The servo and cables and the water cooling tubes are strapped to a supporting bar between the bulkheads for neatness and security. With the TX switched on first, the RX is then powered up and the main power switch toggled to the โ€˜operateโ€™ position, the ESC then gives a reassuring series of bleeps that confirm that all is well. The ESC was set up using a Turnigy programming card specifically for that model of controller and if required I can tweak the settings once the boat has had a few sailings. The last things to do now are to fit some strong magnets to hold the hatches and roofs down securely and then finally raise the RAF ensigns ๐Ÿ˜
    7 years ago by robbob
    Response
    propellers specilly made
    Hi Dave theres a grub screw on the prop so i filed a small flat area on the shaft to take the grub screw and little bit of thread lock on the grub screw and yes theres is thrust
    washer
    . cliff
    7 years ago by Mataroa
    Response
    propellers specilly made
    Hi cliff How are you going to attach the props to the shaft? Normally if the prop shaft has a plain and threaded end, the threaded end goes to the prop with a locknut and thrust
    washer
    , The other end inside the boat has a thrust
    washer
    and a collett with grub screw(s). Dave
    7 years ago by Dave M
    Response
    The Taycol Target Renovation
    Flippin' 'eck! Which of the 17 million Royal Blues did you mean??? I assume you mean the original darker version with a hint of red/purple? Might start with primary blue and add a dollop or two of maroon or burgundy! Yep, you're right navy blue knickers were rather boring, but the contents generally not so ๐Ÿ˜‰ Don't know when you were last in Munich but Conrad now has two stores here, a small overcrowded one in Tal in the city and a newer huge superstore opposite the Olympia Einkauf Zentrum in the north of the city. That's right, where that nutter started shooting at people last year! if they ain't got it it probably ain't made๐Ÿ˜‰ 'Qual der Wahl' as they say round here. Wanted to see what the Target was going to look like, so here a couple of impressions. I'm rather pleased with it and myself ๐Ÿ˜ Can't wait for the PB to arrive. Just discovered another use for it - thrust
    washer
    s๐Ÿ˜ฒ Cheers ๐Ÿ˜Ž
    7 years ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Battery problems
    Hi Patto I agree with what has already been posted, but it would help if we knew the size and type of prop you are running with your brushless motor. Fast large racing props do not work well with brushless unless your battery can provide the very heavy sustained current required. As Haverlock suggests a Wattmeter will allow you to select the best prop for your set up. LiPo power will give you all the speed you need but at an initial high cost as they require special chargers and correct management. You could use NiMh batteries which are lighter than SLA and are more suited to high discharge currents. You can get these in 12v packs and 5000mAhr would be a good starting point. If your motor is cutting out it is more likely the ESC is the culprit due to too high current draw. Another possibility is that the propshaft is too tight, it should turn freely with no tight spots and have thrust
    washer
    s at both ends. Dave
    7 years ago by Dave M
    Forum
    Richards 48'' Swordsman
    Hi Richard Whilst the delamination appears local chance are the fuel has penetrated well into the laminates together with water. Use whatever you want to patch the damage but a fresh piece of ply will probably be cheaper and more resilient. Cascamite will not work well with cyano. I would, after sorting the damage, use a thin resin poured and swilled around the hull insides to seal, followed by a covering of glass fibre or cloth over the outside impregnated with polyester lay up resin. You can fill any resulting blemishes with car body filler. As the model had an ic engine chances are the prop shaft will be showing signs of its age. Even if the bearings appear ok'ish the shaft is most likely bent or twisted. I suggest whilst you are sorting out the delamination you purchase a new unit of the same size. Most modern kit is metric so your shaft should fit any props and couplings you purchase. Some use an allen key to secure the coupling so this may not apply. Don't forget to fix a locknut and thrust
    washer
    at either end of the prop tube. If you look at the blogs on this site there are several example of how others have completed similar tasks Hope this helps Please keep asking if you need any further help Dave
    7 years ago by Dave M
    Forum
    Skeg on King Fisher
    Hi Grandpa Looking at the latest photos suggests the shaft and keel will be secure and if the prop is clearing the hull then the shaft may be long enough. You may need to add an extended coupling to allow for the motor. As I mentioned it would be a good idea to fit the motor, coupling shaft and prop now to make sure it all fits nice and square and runs freely. Don't forget you must have thrust
    washer
    s at either end of the propshaft together with a locknut for both the coupling and prop.๐Ÿ˜ I am in the Crewe club and Mark I believe sails with Etherow. We are both North West clubs so a few hundred miles from Canterbury. Good to hear you have a local modellers Club. Good building Dave
    7 years ago by Dave M
    Forum
    Propshaft Alignment
    Hi cormorant Can't actually see the
    washer
    between the coupling and the proptube which appears to have a nylon bearing. It would benefit from a slightly more balanced fit on the motor shaft and propshaft with the coupling having equal gaps at either end. Most motors will move on their bearings in their case when running and it is important to make sure that the prop assembly does not exert any force on the motor. That's the function of the thrust bearings. Correctly fitted there should be a small gap between the prop tube and the
    washer
    . Rixla cigarete paper was popular as a guide to set the gap in the days of IC and is still a good indicator. Hope this helps Dave
    8 years ago by Dave M
    Forum
    Propshaft Alignment
    Hi Cormorant I believe you should have selected the jigs to match the length of your chosen coupling. Once you glue the shaft in place and the adhesive has hardened you disconnect the shaft and motor from your jig and rebuild with your chosen coupling. Do make sure you include a lock nut and thrust
    washer
    between the coupling and shaft. There should be a similar
    washer
    and lock nut at the prop end. Dave
    8 years ago by Dave M
    Forum
    Blowing fuses
    HI Georgio I have an Aerokits Solent (pics attached). Some pics show the model in an earler guise. I have recently upgraded the electrics and corrected the number. its a model of the Douglas Currie 48-016 This type of lifeboat had a top speed of about 9/10 knots so was not as fast as the later fast afloat boats. Two 850 motors would be much to powerful for this model. Regarding the waterline most models I see are usually ballasted far to low in the water, the real boat had a draught of 4'8" and in service it was usually possible to see the white bottom paint just above the waterline. I use two Bhuler 12v motors with two electronize ESCs and a 12v 12 amp SLA. Sails at scale speed and I can usually get a good hour if I use fast speed sparingly. The fact that you have lost a prop suggests that you may not have thrust
    washer
    s and locknuts at either end of your prop tubes. As you have found without a locknut the props can and do become detached. Another symptom is that without lock nuts the whole shaft can tighten up and seize, especially if you do not have a locknut at the drive end. The thrust
    washer
    s take the load when going ahead or astern and you should adjust so that there is minimal play between the
    washer
    and bearing. We used to use cigarret paper to set the clearance. Glad to hear you are managing to sail, I used to sail on the original lake when I lived on the Wirral, and I do hope you can sort out all the niggling little problems. Cheers Dave
    9 years ago by Dave M
    Forum
    How do I fit a propellor shaft ?
    HI Dave Could you explain more about the thrust
    washer
    maybe a picture not to sure if I have this on my boat maybe a picture of whole thing Ie prop, nut, sharft bearing,
    washer
    and prop shaft any help is appreciated I cant wait to get this running right so I can enjoy this boat. Regards George
    9 years ago by georgeo5664
    Forum
    How do I fit a propellor shaft ?
    HI George Yes you do need to lock the prop to the shaft with the lock nut. I have made special thin spanners to hold the nut so I can adjust in situ. You also need a thrust
    washer
    between the nut and the shaft bearing, preferably brass. The play between the
    washer
    and the bearing is minimal, at one time we used to use a cigarette paper like a feeler gauge but unless you are running at high revs you can set this by eye and feel. As long as there are no tight spots you should be OK. At the other end of the prop shaft you should have another
    washer
    and nut again locked to the drive joint. This will protect the bearings in your motor as they are not designed to take longitudinal force. Failure to lock the connections will either result in the prop or drive becoming detached or the drive and shaft seizing resulting in damage to the motor or ESC. For this reason you should also have a fuse fitted between the battery and ESC rated at less than the mtor stall current or the max amps for the ESC, whichever is the lower. Hope this helps Dave
    9 years ago by Dave M
    Response
    Vosper 1/16th scale crash tender
    I would check the rudder shaft. At full speed the model is sitting well down in the water and if you have the shaft low to allow for the well deck the water pressure will be considerable. I try to use close fitting shafts and tube and place an 'o' ring above and below the tube with a brass
    washer
    holding the ring against the tube top and bottom. You should have a thrust
    washer
    at either end of your prop tube with minimal clearance (a cigarette paper used to be used in the past). I agree with Alan, the prop shaft bearing should be a close fit. if you can feel any play at either end they probably need replacing. Hope you can solve the problem
    9 years ago by Dave M
    Forum
    Motors overheating
    HI Thom The question over shaft alignment, it does cause a lot of extra drag if not in line, but as you say your stuck with it. Replace the bent shaft, but test the motor out of the hull against the good one, possible it needs "running in" before you splash the cash. What I meant with the lock nuts and thrust
    washer
    s, there needs to be slight end float on the shaft, the
    washer
    s act as a bearing against the end of the shaft tube. Did you use oil to lubricate the shafts or did you use grease? Grease can cause a lot of drag with high speed motors Mark
    10 years ago by jarvo
    Forum
    Motors overheating
    HI Mark, Think I found one motor which is a bit faulty (doesn't turn as freely as the other) and possibly a very slight bend in the shaft. I'm also using raboesch couplers from motor to shaft so they seem to be fine regardless of the angle. They aren't perfectly aligned but as close as I can get considering the hull design and motor size. I'll try a new shaft and a new motor and see how it handles. As for locknuts - everything is tight so there is no movement at all. No thrust
    washer
    s in place on either side. Would that make a huge difference? Thanks again for your help! Thom
    10 years ago by Thom
    Forum
    Motors overheating
    HI Thom I was thinking you had something like 60mm props, with small props there is something wrong with the driveline. Are the motors and shafts in line both vertically and horizontally? If you remove the couplings the shafts should be very free to spin if not remove the shaft from the tube and role it across a piece of glass, (the glass is very smooth) there should be no wobble or twitching anywhere along the shaft, if there is the shaft is bent and will need replacing. The amp test will show which one is the worst and go from there. Just had a brainwave!!!! (don't happen very often these days.) The locknuts on the props and couplings, is there a little end float, IE. the shaft can move back and forth slightly, possible the shaft is locking up. Also are the thrust
    washer
    s in place on both ends???? Mark
    10 years ago by jarvo
    Forum
    prop shaft
    You should be able to tighten the nuts /
    washer
    s so that the shaft is a nice sliding fit on the bearings in the prop shaft. 3mm is too much. I would check that there is indeed a bearing at each end of the shaft as they can sometimes push out and 3 to 4mm is about the thickness of a bearing outside the shaft. If you do not have the correct clearance water will run up the shaft, but worse the shaft will not have the benefit of a thrust bearing at each end allowing it to move away from the motor / coupling. Won't do either any good. If this is a commercial item I would speak with the vendor and ask for their help. Could be that the
    washer
    s supplied are too thin. Good luck ๐Ÿ˜€
    11 years ago by Dave M


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