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    Forum
    Sea Commander restoration.
    Evening Colin, Nowt on the haunted fish tank so I took another look at your pics. Something was itching at the back of my mind! Looking again at the last pic it occurred to me. I think I would be inclined to reverse the yoke on the rudder post, otherwise it's going to be blocked by the
    water
    pickup /
    water
    tube ๐Ÿ˜ฎ Just a thought. I still get one once in a while ๐Ÿ˜ Cheers and G'night all, Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž
    2 months ago by RNinMunich
    Event
    SOUTH WEST SHIP SHOW
    Our annual Ship Show with more model boat clubs than ever attending including Swindon MB & Engineering club, Cardiff Marine Modellers, Woodspring MSC, Peter Kenrick (OWLS MBC), Surface Warship Association, Shepton Mallet Drifters, Warminster MBC, and Cwmbran MBC. Adam Slater, a model boat manufacturer of Mountfleet Models, Doncaster will be present with his trade stand, and RC Bits on the Move will have modellers' bits and pieces available. This is all in addition to many of our regular stands with books, postcards, artwork,
    water
    line ship models and more.
    4 months ago by coastal1s
    Directory
    (Yacht) Koh-i-Noor
    I bought this yacht via a well known auction website. it was owned by an old gent who had passed away and was covered in dust and the ABS white hull had yellowed with age. I cleaned the yacht up, rubbed the timber decks down and varnished them, re-painted the superstructure, rubbed down the hull and spayed the hull a grey/brown colour. it came complete with auxiliary motor, batteries, sail winch servo, ESC and navigation light switching unit. The yacht sails perfectly and looks great on the
    water
    . A real bargain buy. (Motor: Robbe) (ESC: Hitec Gold) (9/10)
    2 years ago by ads90
    Directory
    (Naval Ship) Sir Kay (T241)
    This is my Sir Kay (T241) - Round Table Class Minesweeper. it is from the Caldercraft range and I was fortunate to recently acquire it - I would have much preferred to have built it but couldn't miss the opportunity of it being given to me by an old retiring modeller. it just needed new RC throughout, a good clean, a tidy up and some fresh paint here and there plus a bit of rigging renewal. Not tried it in the
    water
    yet but will do tomorrow at our Club meet. (Motor: MFA Geared 2.5:1) (ESC: Mtroniks) (5/10)
    9 months ago by ads90
    Directory
    (Naval Ship) Graf Spee
    It's a Graupner premium line ATR! ;-/ Wanted some 'quick fun' while working on more complex constructions (HMS Hotspur H Class Destroyer 1936, 1:72 and Type IA U26 also 1936). Didn't work out that way! On first test of motors and ESC I discovered that the shafts were so badly fitted that they were binding ;-( So back in dry dock for some hull surgery! That's why some inputs are missing above. Plan is to gradually add functions and special effects; lighting, gun controls, magicians Flash Paper for gun flashes. Maybe fired using my old glow-plugs!!?? Now I'm freshly retired I have more time for this ;-), as long as Gisela doesn't drag me off around the world too often ;-) I also have HMS Belfast from the same series (approx 1:128) also awaiting fitting out. More soon - don't hold your breath please ;-) in the pipeline is some 'Plastic Magic' with Ark Royal, Hood and Bismark all to 350 scale ca 70-80cm. Sorry been in Munich for over 30 years don't think in inches any more (except when buying mag wheels for the chariot!) Cheers, and as my German boating friends say 'Immer ein Handbreite Wasser unterm Kiel!) = I wish you always a hand-widths
    water
    under your keel. I sail on the lake in the Ostpark near me in Munich. Very convenient, right next to the Biergarten! ๐Ÿ˜Ž (Motor: 600) (ESC: Graupner Navy V30R) (5/10)
    2 years ago by RNinMunich
    Response
    Re: Enclosing the controls.
    Hi Alan. You are correct, I had tucked that leg of the aerial alongside the ESC and probably would have used that position but I'll take your advice and move it away as far as practical. I'll put it in a thin plastic tube at the front of the enclosure so it will be correctly distanced as you rightly suggest. I had not considered that any nasty RFI from the ESC (or any other acronyms ๐Ÿ˜‰) would be an issue with 2.4G kit. The other leg of the aerial is passed through a hole in the side wall of the well deck into the hull cavity and extends forward, it's also above the
    water
    line too so that should be OK. The aerial wires will be at 90 degrees to each other which I know is desirable too. BTW. I have developed the fan cooling of the motor a bit more so I'll post an update on that soon ๐Ÿ˜. Thanks ๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿ‘. Rob.
    4 months ago by robbob
    Blog
    Hull finishing touches
    The Huntsman Hull has now had the finishing touches applied...Sanding Sealer, Eze-Kote, glassfibre sheet and hull chine bars added. The inside of the hull has been given a good dollop of Eze-Kote to seal it and
    water
    proof it so next job is to fit the prop tube and motor before the whole hull gets a coat of primer... I've only just realised, but the kit from SLEC does not contain any decking, so I need to sort out whether to just go for plain mahogany veneer or try to find teak decking which is laser cut to fit with plank marks....any help or advice here welcome for a novice! (I can't find anything suitable on the internet). ๐Ÿ˜ก
    4 months ago by StuartE
    Blog
    Painting the hull โ€“ Part 1 primer & anti fouling.
    Thereโ€™s no putting it off any longer, I need to start painting the hull before I do any more on the boat so the hull was given a final rub down with a fine abrasive and then the deck and gunwales carefully masked off. I used some panel wipe to thoroughly de-grease all the surfaces and then put the hull in the โ€˜spray boothโ€™ on my turntable and applied two coats of Halfords grey primer. I left this for a couple of days to dry and harden off before setting it on my bench. The next stage involves levelling the hull fore and aft and side to side so that the
    water
    line can be established. Fortunately the well deck floor is meant to be perfectly level when the boat is afloat and at rest and this is the datum I used to level to using a couple of spirit levels. The rough
    water
    line points were measured off the plan and transferred to the hull to be used as approximate starting points for the
    water
    line. For my previous build I bought a self-levelling laser to indicate the
    water
    line so this was brought out for the same purpose. The laser level was placed on another workbench a couple of metres away and gradually raised with packing pieces until the projected line agreed with the rough position marks Iโ€™d made on the hull and then finely adjusted until the line was correct and pencil marks made at intervals along the projected line. The process was repeated for the other side of the hull and then also marked across the stern, fortunately the stern line and bow markings joined up accurately confirming that the levelling was spot on. Good quality low tack masking tape was then applied all around the hull and the area above the line masked off with a couple of layers of newspaper. The exposed hull was then keyed with a fine Scotchbrite type pad and cleaned off with panel wipe before two coats of Halfords red oxide primer applied as the anti-fouling.
    4 months ago by robbob
    Response
    Servo Mount
    Hi reilly4. Thanks for your response. I didn't think it was a standard feature, it does seem to work though and I did note your
    water
    cooled motor mounts too. Hi Mike. Sorry to hi-jack your thread ๐Ÿ˜‰.
    4 months ago by robbob
    Forum
    Planking
    Hi Dave, I was faced with the same question last year when renovating and restoring the hull of an ancient Billing Boats Fish Cutter 'Gina 2' that I had inherited. The Blog gives blow by blow account of how I stabilised and
    water
    proofed the hull. https://model-boats.com/builds/view/43305?goto=43306 Otherwise Haverlock is quite right too๐Ÿ‘ I would have liked to have had a varnished wood finish but the original hull construction was so bad I had to fill it (after applying glass-fibre tissue to the inside) and the green filler gave it a tortoise shell effect!!๐Ÿ˜ฒ have fun. Cheers, Doug๐Ÿ˜Ž
    4 months ago by RNinMunich
    Blog
    The motor cover.
    I want to keep the motor cover as compact and in proportion as much as possible so I drew up a design to visualise it and get some practical working dimensions, it also needs to enclose the prop shaft and coupling, and the MT60 connection for the motor so there will not be very much free air space inside. Because of this the motor cover will need some ventilation as the brushless outrunner motor canโ€™t be
    water
    cooled and I donโ€™t want to fit a fan, so the side panels of the box will need some gauze covered slots so that any heat generated can escape, assisted (perhaps) by the rotation of the motors outer โ€˜rotorโ€™ creating some air movement. I donโ€™t intend to run this boat very fast so Iโ€™m hoping that the motor will not get too hot anyway๐Ÿคž. I transferred the dimensions of the side panels from my drawings to some 1.5mm obeche panels and cut the side pieces to size and cut out the ventilation slots, some framing pieces and cross braces were fitted internally and the whole assembly glued and clamped together. Additional framing was added to support the part that covers the shaft and coupling and obeche panels applied to these. Some finishing details were applied around the base and the top to improve the appearance. The internal framing will later incorporate some small cylindrical neodymium magnets that will hold the motor enclosure down on the deck, Iโ€™ll fit these later when the deck floor has been fitted. The mesh is some of the stainless steel mesh that I had used in the
    water
    pickup tube on my RAF Crash Rescue Tender hoses, and this was cut to size and epoxied in place. The completed enclosure was finished with the same Teak stain as the rest of the boat. Next up will be an enclosure at the rear to conceal the control electronics.
    5 months ago by robbob
    Media
    DS 30
    Took time out from my new build to test float the barge I am building for my push boat to give it a long awaited float test for leaks and to mark the
    water
    line. First decent day this winter!
    5 months ago by Mariner85
    Forum
    Replacement motor
    I agree but the heavy Surfury blasts along as it should being an off shore racer and much faster than when powered by an Irvine 61 plus it all stays nice and cool. it will take 6 s too but there is no need. The lighter Cigarette is running a 2045 KVA with 120 A speedo both
    water
    cooled from HK, running a 45 mm prop on 4 cell again quick runs cool without hassle. I run 5s in a Pursuit 1650 KVA with 120A hk speedo, shallow V on 3 bladed bronze prop it goes like stink but not sure motor would take 6 s, so there are lots of combinations that seem to work ok
    5 months ago by vortex
    Forum
    Replacement motor
    I run 1100KVA brushless from HK
    water
    cooled with 120A
    water
    cooled speedo on 4s 5200`s in my Surfury and Cigarette 36" and they belt along with 50mm 2blade Mocom props but you dont have to run it flat out.
    5 months ago by vortex
    Forum
    Shroud for Model Air Boat
    Hello, Airboats are not something I have real experience with, but your one comment got my attention: SuperGlue, or CA, an abbreviation, as it is commonly referred to. It does not withstand constant exposure to
    water
    . it is not
    water
    proof. Now there is likely to be a storm of comments against this, but this is based upon experience over 20 years. CA is great and I do use it for some applications on my boats. However if it's below the
    water
    line make certain to adequately sealed or properly painted over it. This is a good rule for most glues that sit below the
    water
    , with the exception of truely
    water
    proof glues like epoxy. Good luck with your projects. Cheers Joe
    5 months ago by Joe727
    Response
    PS Iona - misc fittings
    Thanks for the compliments! it's been a good project, just adding the final touches a couple of days ago. One bonus about paddle steamers is they don't usually take on
    water
    as the paddle shafts are above the
    water
    line๐Ÿ‘
    5 months ago by Harvey Kitten
    Blog
    6 Volts of Course of Course!
    Captain's Log: The right battery for the job! I found a battery that volts and amp's are just right! The most important thing the right weight! The battery weigh's in at 3 lbs. 1 ounce. Which is just right for the Brooklyn! Give or take a once or two.... But, can be adjusted to trim the
    water
    line! The battery is a 6 volt 8.5 amp battery. Which will power Brooklyn for 2.5 hours. Or 1.6 hours with her smoking unit on! Brooklyn will run on 5.2 amps with the smoker. Or 4.0 amps with out the smoker! Unfortunately you live and learn. I tried using the batteries from. Serenity, she's 12 volts 2.5 amps! This was no good, not enough power! Also the 12 batteries weigh too much! So, A 6 volt battery was the way to go! Next is replacing the motor and smoker! Am expecting the motor this morning! Will soon order the smoker! And again she will be completed. For a spring launching!๐Ÿ‘
    6 months ago by figtree7nts
    Response
    Sports cruiser ''ALI''
    Planking by 2mm pvc. its not smooth. I normally use the paint putty,with cement powder. its good and
    water
    proof.
    6 months ago by Sakibian
    Response
    Sports cruiser ''ALI''
    Hello, Looks good! I use PVC for all my wood. CA is not very
    water
    resistant. if you can get the
    water
    proof type PVC, use that. if not, if it is just a white glue, make sure all glued areas are covered with a
    water
    proof coating. Such as varnish or paint. When I glue wood, I put glue on each joint, let it sit for a few minutes while it soaks into the wood grain. Apply a bit more glue and press together. Clamp or somehow hold the joint securely while it dries. Most PVCs take at least 30 minutes to set. Depending on the joint, I usually will come back a day later and fill any gap that may appear. PVC creats a joint stronger than wood. CA is brittle and the joint can snap. Give it a try and good luck to you. Joe
    6 months ago by Joe727
    Forum
    Fairmile D 1/24 Scale Build
    Hi biker, Depends on whether you want to build true scale model and build it 'right', or just a near scale 'Runabout'. Rowen has learned (with a little help form his friends ๐Ÿ˜‰) to build it right which is extremely satisfying and the correct detail under
    water
    truly compliments his superb detailing above the
    water
    line. To me the two are inseparable. Seems to me that that is what Andy wants as well. I applaud him. About time we gave him some constructive answers - but first we need to know something about his boat:- Length, beam, probable max weight? If all you want is a near scale quickbuild fast runabout John there are plenty of ARTR/RTR options on the market. But then; that's just my opinion - and whadda I know!๐Ÿ˜ Look forward to at least some pics / vids of your boat in action Biker. Cheers, Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž
    6 months ago by RNinMunich
    Response
    Motor, mount & prop-shaft.
    How does an outrunner fare with heat when closed in? The one you are using is goint to be even more closed in as it has a box built round it. I have been reluctant with an outrunner in a hull for this reason. I have a Miss Geico with an inrunner which is fine as it has a
    water
    jacket.
    6 months ago by BOATSHED
    Directory
    (Naval Ship) March'71
    The BEST thing about this one is, she's very smooth on the run. Decent power, makes it more fun. When it turns with speed, gets down like a bike. So that's the time when it leaks a tiny amount of
    water
    . Bcz it's not
    water
    proof on the deck. Can take 2s-3s Lipo. Bcz the motors are 3s rated only. Have a plan to change them into better Mabuchi ones. (Motor: 180 brushed motor) (ESC: Hnadmade by arduino) (8/10)
    6 months ago by Sakibian
    Blog
    Weight Too Much!
    Captain's Log: After careful consideration. I have decided to use only one battery at a time! This being 6.5 lbs. is way too much weight. Her bow is too low to the
    water
    line. She get's thrown off by the weight. So, one battery at a time will be used! Now, having lowered the volts. From 12 volts to 6 volts is a problem. See her main motor and smoker. Are 12 volts each! So, now I have to replace. The main motor and the smoker. To a 6 volt system! This is not so easy. If any of you are familiar. With Dumas and Harbor model products. You know this ain't cheap!๐Ÿ˜ญ Luckily, I will be selling both parts. Together next month! As both parts are in new condition! I will then order a 6 volt main motor and Smoker! Oh, each battery will give me about 1.5 hours of run time! And that's not bad at all..... NOTE: I'm only losing $10.00 on the resale of her Motor and Smoker!
    6 months ago by figtree7nts
    Response
    Fitting the rubbing strakes.
    Hi All. I'm frantically trying to get the boat to a reasonable state of completion for showing at the London Model Engineer Exhibition next weekend. I've finished painting the hull, just need to apply the white
    water
    line and lacquer the hull with a satin finish. The pictures (taken today) show the current state so there's still a lot of detail to add to the decks and cabin. It will be definitely be displayed as 'work in progress'. Robbob.
    6 months ago by robbob
    Blog
    Fitting the rubbing strakes.
    Before I can apply the final coats of epoxy on the hull I need to fit the two rubbing strakes. I started with the bottom rubbing strake which runs along the chine where the side skins and bottom skins meet. The strakes meet the external keel at the bow and also extend across the stern. I used a length of square section of obeche which needed a gentle curve towards the bow, rather than steam the wood I soaked it in
    water
    for a few minutes to soften it and then used a heat gun while bending the strip gently to the required curve. When the wood had cooled and dried the bend was set I did a test fit and drilled very fine holes through the strip so that the modelling pins I use to hold the piece in place would not split the wood. A 30 minute epoxy was used to fit the strakes on both sides of the hull and stern. Above this bottom strake is a second rubbing strake and this also meets the keel at the bow and runs across the stern, I used a broader and thinner obeche strip for this and it was prepared and fixed in the same way. The final pieces to fit will be the gunwales which run around the hull where the sides meet the deck but I will not fit them until I have planked the deck.
    6 months ago by robbob
    Forum
    Smoke generator
    Have just made a prototype of a fan forced smoker which seems to be working well (despite breaking the heater coil by moving it while hot, - had it apart, broke wire, screw and washer repair, not quite as hot) I bought a couple of Heng Long smokers (for R/C tanks or cars) to play with, for $10 NZ each(or 5.3 Euros to you Northerners give or take a yen) from Bangood and just bought another from Ebay. There seem to be 2 different models, as one has a long coil with a lamp wick draped over it, which is sitting in the oil reservoir, the other has a small coil inside a piece of heat resistant woven tubing (as you might find insulating toaster/heater wiring etc) which acts as a wick and that also sits in cotton wool in the reservoir, (this seems to be the better of the two) Tip - don't fill the tank right up, only enough to soak the cotton, element should be just out of the oil. The wick loads the element. The better model seems to have a black top to the tank (also maybe either brown or black tank) and the other has a brown top and dirty brown tank. As with most of this stuff you won't know till you get it what it's going to be. What I did was remove the tank and cut off the pump tube just in front of the screw lugs (see black line in photo) then fitted the tank, and a 40x40x10 5v ESC fan (voltage controlled by a UBEC set to 5v on the jumpers) into a plastic electronics utility box from Jaycar (our local electronics and hobby store). I made up a double JST lead for the 2s 1800Mah Lipo and fired it up (using baby oil). it's pretty much silent and smokes well once it gets warmed up, ( starts smoking in about 5 seconds) You could control it (on/off volume) by either a remote on/off switch or perhaps a small cheap 10A brushed ESC. I would leave the fan running and control the element to avoid burning the element. The original pump tank inlet hole seems ok as is (approx 1.5mm) but you could enlarge it very slightly to get a better flow if you could find a better oil. At the electronics store they have proper smoke machine oil for $20 NZ per litre so I may have a look at that. The reason I went for the fan idea was that I found in std pump form, if I immersed a tube from the tank in
    water
    , it sucked
    water
    back into the tank. I was hoping it would pump smoke out of my HSL exhausts at
    water
    level alongside the cooling
    water
    but it would need a very light non return valve to do this. The fan seems to pump the smoke through 2mm ID silicone tube ok, so tubing of similar ID to the OD of the tank outlets should work well. These pumps in original form work pretty well for the price, and are cheap enough to keep a few for spare elements, the only thing is they are a bit noisy but in an 'engine sounding' way, (might add to the effect on a tug or work-boat though) What you have left after this mod is a very handy little geared motor with an eccentric output wheel which could be used for winches, radar and whirly bits of any description (see pic of motor leftover and original) To avoid burnout, these should be run on no more than a 2s (around 7.5v-(suggest 8v max with fan running) The other tank is going to work a lot better than this one but I'm not making a tug, just want a bit of exhaust smoke on start-up etc to go with the 2 sound units. Very cheap to make (around $25 NZ with pump, box, fan and UBEC all through Ebay, Aliexpress and Bangood (and local electronics store) if you wanted to run an ESC to control the smoke and you have no channels left to control it proportionally, you can always try using a second receiver bound to your TX, (if your TX will allow it,) power it and a brushed ESC (wired to the element) as normal and use the throttle channel to plug in your smoke control. This should work if you want more smoke as you accelerate or if you are using only 1 stick on a 2 stick TX you could use your 'elevator' stick pushed up (or a toggle switch if available) to start/stop the smoke (through the brushed ESC setup) . This setup weighs 100g (10g more than std) The quest for lots of smoke continues Will try to upload vid later and update progress.
    6 months ago by jbkiwi
    Forum
    Paint for Thames River Police Boat.
    Can anyone confirm the correct colour for the hull of The Thames Police Boat above the
    water
    line? I have seen various shades of blue on other models, some very light which doesn't look at all right, and some in black. The instructions state it should be a dark blue and I'd like to order a custom mixed RAL colour quite soon and I'm looking at RAL 5011 Steel Blue or possibly RAL 5004 Black Blue. Any advice appreciated. Robbob.
    6 months ago by robbob
    Response
    Cooling coil
    An outrunner is better for this type of boat as it is more torquey. if cooling is needed (and it may not) just use a proper
    water
    cooled motor mount. Chris
    6 months ago by ChrisF
    Response
    Vosper
    Extremely impressive, a
    water
    -cooled four stroke with reverse. You must have some great metal working abilities and nice equipment. Video was fun to watch! Joe
    6 months ago by Joe727
    Forum
    Propshaft Lubrication
    Hi All I use silicon tap grease as it's
    water
    proof and add a bit more after each outing. Strip down, check for wear once a year and regrease. Started using Teflon bearings for the lower bearing which are holding up to the brushless motors. Canabus
    7 months ago by canabus
    Forum
    All hooked up, nowt happens...
    Hi Steve, I have the same problem with the ESCs in my HSL. They are cheap Chinese car models and can be a bit tricky to get into reverse quickly. I have found that either waiting a few seconds in neutral before trying reverse, or going to neutral and flicking the throttle forward a few clicks and back to neutral quickly (in .5 sec) usually sorts it. I think it may be that the motor stops somewhere that the cheaper ESCs can't detect (bit like an old car starter that hits the bald spot on the ring gear and you have to jog it a bit) so you have to move it slightly for it to 'see' it (maybe the capacitors also). Brushed ESCs don't have that problem as the brushes are in constant contact, rather than relying on correct positioning in Brushless motors. You will also find that some Chinese motors are not timed/wound correctly, and you can feel weak or 'floaty' spots between certain magnets which may also cause a problem. Perhaps trying a higher or lower ESC timing by 1 step either way might help if you have that capability. if it works by just flicking the throttle method, you can just slow down as you come in and take you time finding reverse in a scale like manner (remember the PT109 movie where they went through the shed on the wharf) You can also try swapping the other pairs of wires on the motor (same direction but different pairs). if you are still not happy then it might be time as Doug said, for a better ESC with instructions. Get one which has all the programing features, (fwd, rev , timing, auto batt detection (lipos or NmH etc) starting mode- ie soft,hard, brake etc) this will give you plenty of options for adjustment. Doesn't have to be a marine one, a good known brand car/buggy one will do and if you have any heat problems you can always put a mini fan on it.
    water
    cooled marine ESCs are really only for high amp high speed setups. My 36"HSL has 2x 30A car ESCs running 2x 28/45 2000kv
    water
    cooled motors and ESCs never get even warm. Pictured are the ESCs I am using from HK which have an output plug for a fan if needs be. The 3rd pic is the brushless ESC types (EBay, AliExpress) I am using, which have no problems with reverse transition (see vid section re Thornycroft MTB maneuvering) also the HSL vids to give you an idea of how these brushless ESCs perform even with the minor reversing problem. Hope you get it sorted.
    7 months ago by jbkiwi
    Directory
    (Racing Boat) skytech H101
    skytech racing boat with
    water
    cooled engine.lts capable of 18 knots ! it has a self righting function and came with a spare battery pack,prop,oil and spanner. hope to have some fun with my grandson. (Motor: 380
    water
    cooled) (8/10)
    7 months ago by keithtindley
    Response
    Cooling coil
    Yes, that is what was thinking. Normally with brushless motors it is the motor mount that is
    water
    cooled which draws the heat out of the motor. it may not need cooling anyway.
    7 months ago by ChrisF
    Blog
    Hum, Now What!
    Captain's Log: Continued! I have found where the leak is coming from! It's coming from above the shaft as it exits the hull! I'm not sure why it's leaking. The area is tricky to get to. As it's deep in the hull! An hard to get to. Since the hull is made of plastic. Am thinking of making a flange plate! And gluing it to the aft end of the hull On the outside of the hull! But, of course need to see where the leak. Is coming from the outside...โ€ฆ. I have already looked into getting a
    water
    pump. Also a
    water
    detection circuit to activate the pump!
    7 months ago by figtree7nts
    Blog
    1-35 Scale Schenllboot By TeeJay
    Hi all for the second blog report on the schnellboot I am going to go over the rudder a propeller shaft assembly in more detail. The first stage was to make the rudders which were made of brass ,and having taken note of what has been said about the increase in size needed for the kit by other members I have increased the size of the rudders by 50% so that they have more effect and hopefully the boat will be more agile .I fitted 3mm treaded rod on to the rudder and in a 4mm flanged tube to reinforce the brass rod. The second stage was to make and fit 5mm flanged tube in the location for the rudders in the boat, these were made to be above the
    water
    line and will be sealed in place to reduce the possibility of leaks. These were fitted to a rudder platform inside the boat which was fitted to the kit moulding for the rubbing strip that runs the length on the boat and secured by making resin blocks which were fitted with computer extension nuts. which were then superglue in place to secure the rudder platform. The rudders were then fitted in place and held in position with the tiller collars which were made from 8mm rod and fitted the tiller arms and locked in place with 3mm computer screws and ni-lock nuts, a connecting plate was then fitted to connect the three tillers together, I also fitted rubberised washers to seal the rudder tubes. The third stage was to make the propeller supports. The centre support was a direct copy of the kit part made of brass and fitted to the kit with a plate and screws (this plate and the rudder plate were made from galvanised steel) and will sealed with resin after the I test the boat for leaks. The port and starboard supports were made by taking the kit parts and cutting them in have along the joint line or mould seam this gave me a template ,which I used to make cross-section segments but I did alter the template by increasing the boss diameter to 10mm and extending the support legs so that the finished support could be fitted through the hull (the picture of these show the mk1 version where I forgot to allow for the 4mm prop shaft which has a 6mm tube) any way the boss of these segments were drilled out with a 7mm drill and a length of 7mm brass tube fitted through the boss to assemble the segments, all of which were coated in soldering flux at this stage of the assembly which were riveted at both ends to hold it all together during soldering, after soldering the supports were then filed to the size and shape to resemble the kit parts as close as possible and fitted to the hull using a superglue and talcum powder mix and then I cast resin around the extensions to secure the prop supports in place. The fourth stage is the propeller shaft housing for the centre propeller housing I place a brass rod in a plastic straw and place in position in hull and using resin I sealed the hull with the rod in place this gave me a pilot hole for the centre prop shaft after I removed the brass rod. For the port and starboard shafts I used the kit parts which had hole place when assembled, this when I reinforced the housings ,the centre housing I glue 2mm of plasticard on each side and for the port and starboard I made a brass tube shroud which covered the housings which left gaps between the kit part and the brass which was filled by casting resin in the gap this increased the diameter to 10 mm so that there were little chance of breaking throw with the drill and finished these off by fill-in the outside with body filler and sanded to shape and finish . I then drilled through the pilot hole in the housings using very long extended drills and a wheel brace ( if I had use a power drill the heat would have melted the plastic of the kit and may have caused problems) I drill the shaft housings out 6mm them filed them out with 6mm file so that I could insert a length of 6mm brass tube. After all this was done I fitted a flanged bush made from 7mm tube and 2mm brass plate turned to 11mm to the ends or the propeller shaft housings. And now it is time I must ask for some help could anyone advise me on the length of propeller shafts, I know I can use a 300mm shaft for the centre shaft, but port and starboard will have to be longer. and I also need advice on selecting the motors, I want to use 4mm prop shaft with 35mm propellers. Any opinions welcome.
    9 months ago by teejay
    Response
    Oh, NO
    water
    Everywhere!
    Maybe through the oiler tube Ed? I put a length of silicon tube on mine to ensure that the opening is well above the
    water
    line. Also makes oiling easier ๐Ÿ˜‰ In your photo it looks like there is some liquid near the top of the oiler!? Seasons Greetings to you and 'Better Half', cheers, Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž
    7 months ago by RNinMunich
    Blog
    Oh, NO
    water
    Everywhere!
    Captain's Log: Ok, I like to float Tug Brooklyn! Last night I did this. I filled the tub with
    water
    . Then placed Tug Brooklyn. I left it alone for about half an hour. When I came back. I started looking at her. She looked different in some way. I hadn't realized she was taking on
    water
    . anyway I looked at her
    water
    line. And her
    water
    line was below the
    water
    ! I then took her superstructure. Off of her when I looked inside. I was shocked to find. She had taken on more than 12 ounces of
    water
    ! I then started to panic! I went and got my syringe. Which I had purchased just in case
    water
    ever got into her. And started pumping out all the
    water
    she had in her! I'm not sure where she's leaking from! Or why she is leaking! There's only one opening in the Hull. And that's where the shaft comes out of! Going to have to do another float test. to see where the
    water
    is coming in from! I'm glad I discovered this before next boating season!
    7 months ago by figtree7nts
    Forum
    Pretend deck planking
    Hi Steve, What went wrong? ๐Ÿ˜ฒ 1. Drawing on deck planking, i.e. on a veneer or thin ply- Why/how did it go wrong? Surely since the planks are all 'parallel curves' all you need to do is make a curve template in plasticard from the plan. Then at a few strategic points along the plank length mark the widths of the planks. Set the template along these points and 'Bob's yer Uncle - Fanny's yer Aunt' ๐Ÿ˜‰ Mind you; doing it that way the 'curious grain of the planks' would betray the fiddle๐Ÿค” 2. 'what type of strip wood - Any very close grained type. Possible source- http://www.slecuk.com/index.html 3. How to glue it!? Any thin, spreadable
    water
    proof wood glue! 4. Gap? Max 0.5mm perhaps. Ca 10 to 1 ratio. 5. 'How do you secure the bent planks whilst the glue dries? Modelling pins at strategic points along the plank. Assumes planks are pre-shaped by steaming!! See 6. ๐Ÿ˜‰ 6. 'Do I need to steam the planks? - YES! As mentioned above; make a template defining the curve required. From this make a jig of ca 5mm x 10mm in which you can set the steamed planks to cool and set to the shape required. To allow for the so called 'spring back' make the jig with a slightly sharper curve than the actual deck curve. When fitting the planks to the deck it's easier to 'push them out' than to try to increase the curvature. Finally; mark on the deck base the plank widths at strategic points along the plank length as alignment points. Glue planks alternately left/right (OK port/starboard๐Ÿ˜‰) using modelling pins to hold in place until the glue is fully cured. For the 'gaps' There are various solutions in Build Blogs on this site. One that I like is the use of thin black card. When the whole deck is planked and properly cured sand lightly (ca 240 grit). 7. 'weathered teak' there are various suppliers of teak stain and also deck weathering stains; e.g. Jotika stain, Lifecolor Washes for Hulls and Wooden Decks, set part no. LP04, which includes Wooden deck darkener and Shadower, amongst other useful weathering pigments. http://www.astromodel.it Google Lifecolor and you'll surely find some UK distributors. Enough answers for enough questions!? ๐Ÿ˜ Hope this provides some inspiration, Cheers, Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž
    7 months ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    steam
    water
    pump
    Hi Gary yes 1946 Nov. but young at heart. Rick
    7 months ago by Newby7
    Forum
    steam
    water
    pump
    I'm searching for a mechanical steam
    water
    pump are there manufacturer or shops that make or show these item's . Rick
    7 months ago by Newby7
    Forum
    steam
    water
    pump
    Good Morning Rick, well it is here in the U/K. out of curiosity, I had a look at your profile as I imagined you were young and just starting off with steam, at least I got the second bit right and discovered you were of 1947 vintage, easy to figure out as I am from 1946. That was a bit of a shock to the system, anyway I thought I would share with you the fact the TVR steam engines are manufactured in the US of A, across the border by Graham industries, almost on your door-step so to speak. Regards, Gary.
    7 months ago by GaryLC
    Forum
    steam
    water
    pump
    Thanks Gary will look at it in the morning . Rick
    7 months ago by Newby7
    Blog
    New bits
    Right, just been given some nice bits. Brushless outrunner FUSION 3535/05 1500kv ESC Top Edge 60A
    water
    cooled SC060B Plus a coupling. So now to go shopping. Which make of Lipo3 and from where? What type and size of brass prop? Where to buy silicon wires and the fancy gold terminals? Steve
    7 months ago by steve-d
    Forum
    steam
    water
    pump
    Thanks Gary I will look at the steam engine. Rick
    7 months ago by Newby7
    Forum
    steam
    water
    pump
    Hi Rick, if you google TVR 1ABB steam engine, you will find a really neat and very good value for money steam engine. I'm afraid this is not cheap and around the ยฃ250 mark, mind it does have ball race bearings on the crankshaft. This comes as a kit of parts and you have to build it from scratch. when you have completed this task you will have a really good knowledge of exactly how a double acting slide valve engine works while putting this together, you can save up for a boiler to go with it, the instructions for building are very good almost idiot proof they must be as I have built several. Beautiful engine and powerful it will easily power a hull of one-meter length. Something to think about and Christmas is coming.
    7 months ago by GaryLC
    Forum
    steam
    water
    pump
    Thanks Gary for the picture I only hope when I get the steam plant I understand enough to have a plumbers nightmare. Rick
    7 months ago by Newby7
    Forum
    steam
    water
    pump
    Hi Rick, I thought you might be interested in this, it looks a bit like a plumbers nightmare, but despite that, a beautiful engine a twin cylinder TVR / USA slide valve 1/2" bore, and incredibly efficient runs on only 30 PSI steam pressure. The boiler is 3 1/2" x 6" and will run for almost 30 minutes with no
    water
    pump, carrying
    water
    adds a lot more weight.
    7 months ago by GaryLC
    Forum
    steam
    water
    pump
    I like that idea thanks Gary
    7 months ago by Newby7
    Forum
    steam
    water
    pump
    You don't need to buy a
    water
    tank, simply build one into your hull using plywood and fibre-glass, the favourite is the sharp end simply fit a wooden bulk-head and cover it in fibre-glass.
    7 months ago by GaryLC
    Forum
    steam
    water
    pump
    sent you a photo of a mechanical boiler feed pump connected to an oscillating V4 engine. get on eBay and type in Microcosm steam engines. if you use a decent size boiler for your steam engine you should get 20 to 30 minutes run-time. Let me know how you get on. Regards.
    7 months ago by GaryLC


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