Blog

Command Boat 90

Scratch built at 12th scale from pictures and profiles of the internet. The boat was originally built in Sweden a class of fast military assault craft originally developed for the Swedish Navy by Dockstavarvet Speed: 40 knots (74 km/h) Draught: 0.8 m (2 ft 7 in) Length: 15.9 m (52 ft) Overall; 14.9 (48') Complement: 3 (two officers and one engineer); Up to 21 amphibious troops with full equipment Armament: 3 × Browning M2HB machine guns; 1 × Mk 19 grenade launcher; 4 naval mines or 6 depth charges . The Model I was attracted to this boat due to its great performance and maneuverability, this was mainly due to the use of twin jets as the main propulsion, this is a trade off with efficiency. So my start point was to collect as much information as possible about the boat this involved collecting pictures and profiles of the craft from various sources. http://www.dockstavarvet.se/products/combat-and-patrol-boats/combat-boat-90-h/specification/ Eventually I found some plans of sort :- http://laurell.today/boats/combat/plans.html My Dad was a boat builder in the days of wooden yachts, and had showed me how to make plans and frames from a line drawing. I went about this first by creating a prototype about 24 in long out of light ply. I then created full size plans of the model to be made. Pictures of small prototype finally painted plain green. The Main model Used my computer to print out the frames onto paper, cut them out and used them as templates for the ply ribs. The construction was simple chine style, with 1.5 mm ply. I tried to build jet drives but failed to produce a effective unit. So reverted to propshafts which worked out well with better control and the boat can spin on it own axis by putting one engine in reverse the other in forward and adjusting the twin rudders. That it for now, hope it was of some interest

6 years ago by CB90

Blog

Speranza 01

Started on the Stringers and Chines, some of the stringers are Spruce, 1/4" x 1/4" , one cracked on the bow curvature, not immediately it was glued and pinned, but about an hour after, should have laminated these spruce stringers as in 1/8" x 1/4" times 2. Another one has cracked since but they are repairable.. Mixed up a weak solution of PVA and and painted the rest, hoping this will soften them up and be more pliable. Started on the transom, this is angled with a sharp centre line, but there was a lot of off cuts of Obechie lying around, so it was planked with a curve, first Modelers License applied. A few more dry fits and the bow and transom were assembled up, using stringers as alignment tools, anything will do in these instances even strips of ply. Some of the upper-works combing has been fitted around the transom area. Muddy....

7 years ago by muddy

Blog

system for fire monitors and ECS

I have laid out all the various components on a building board, not necessarily in the correct orientation/position. The only thing I do know is that needs to come out of the 4 pipes pointing into the tin. I have a caravan pump serving as a scoop (to simulate the pickup as the boat moves forward) any going through the system into the tin is piped back into the container under the bench where the pump is. First thoughts are similar to others in that when the fire monitors are operated the is drawn back through the exhaust pipes and sucks air. To try and solve this I have put some small solenoid valves in the circuit. But first test show that they restrict the flow too much so a larger valve? Or I think the easiest solution would be to put another entry opening in the hull somewhere near the pump just below the line on the side mid-ship so the pump can be connected directly and be primed when the boat is at a standstill (anybody see problems with this?) I think the only issue I can see is that when the boats in motion it may force through the pump – then the monitor result – drip, drip. I think a properly designed inlet, that when in motion the tendency is to draw the air out of the system and not force in until the boat is at a standstill when the should just flow in. I have designed another outlet (not shown) for the exit of the cooling and hopefully the smoke which has the coming out of the centre 6mm pipe and the smoke exits through the surrounding space between the 6mm pipe and the 8mm surrounding hole. (Ignore the black pump, top right, it was a first attempt at a supply, it’s a car washer pump, but not powerful enough)

4 years ago by mturpin013

Response

Re: SEAPLANE TENDER, CHANGE OF ESCs

Hi Peter, yes I cool the motors with brass tube coils and pump. I'm not sure if they even get hot as I never tried without them. I work on the theory, 'put everything on you think you might need and if you don't need it you can take it off' I don't prop the motors too high,- rather let them rev higher with less pitch, thereby taking the load off the motors. The motors are 540 45 turns which is sort of 'low gearing, high torque' so they are not straining. I could put on much bigger props and make a speedboat out of it, but it wouldn't look right. Batteries are only 2s 2200 MAh and last for over an hour, so motors aren't sucking many amps. I use 2 12V 385 motors in the MTB with no cooling other than clip on heat sinks and a computer fan blowing air through the boat, and they've been running for years (get that hot you can't touch them) with no probs. Just keep the bushes oiled now and then. These are so cheap they are not worth worrying about. With fans and ready made cooling plates available these days for ESCs etc there should be no overheating probs, and most ESCs have temp and low voltage sensors and cut out if they get too hot, or with low voltage, (if they cut for temp reasons you know to up your cooling or unload the motors) The modern boat/car ESCs are pretty much plug and play, - auto cell count sensing( LiPos), auto throttle centering etc) Still using a 70's 20A Futaba marine ESC (in the Fairacre launch) which is as good as any similar unit today. Just plug any 12v battery in (no need for cell counting LiPos) and away you go. Was used on 27MhZ but now used on 2.4. Also used an Electronize unit,- nice but huge and makes an annoying fizzing sound going slow so I replaced it. JB

4 years ago by jbkiwi

Response

Re: MORE SMOKER STUFF 2

Re - Nope sorry JB🤔 dat's nix! Hence my comment elsewhere about scaling Doug,(surface tension etc in miniature applications) Wonder if a surfactant introduced before the outlet might make a difference ? So many different exhaust methods in full sized boats, eg, vert dry stack with side exit, (tugs, fishing boats etc) dry exhaust with side or transom exit, wet exhaust side or transom, wet exhaust using lock muffler system etc. they all act differently at exit, so you sort of have to pick 1 and try to reproduce it. A standard wet exhaust and a lock muffler look totally different when they exit for example. Main thing is, we are getting some good ideas and feedback going, and I'm sure we'll see more "Smoke on the , (fire in the sky)😊 in future. Who's going to be first to come up with black (nature friendly) smoke???? JB

5 years ago by jbkiwi

Forum

Age of steam

Mate, I like your oscillating engine and your great video. I have been steaming for eons and am fascinated at the steam pressure gauge at the start registering pressure , though I cannot read the actual pressure gauge numbers and what seems a lot of condensate ( so what ) and after a short while the pressure gauge drops to near zero or thereabouts and stays there for the full run and yet your gauge glass is so very FULL ( yippee) , such a good pump till it, the glass gauge eventually shows it has not too much reservoiur left for the run and the pressure gauge STILL shows near zero to indicate the end of the run , do you have a faulty pressure gauge ? Maybe the Mamoli tube should be inverted to the pressure gauge as you may have it filled with ? I do not know. On another matter, my club Webb identity picture shows my model 56 inch Cervia steam engined Tug which I replaced the Stuart 10 to the Stuart twin 5/8 bore and stroke same as yours ? I think, which may be their still selling 11mm or so bore and stroke (me, still imperial and not modern ). My little twin pushes the Cervia displacement 44lbs hull like a rocket , such power. In my latest model build I am struggling with a 46 inch long hull with a Stuart 10 twin AND it is the Kitchen rudder ( that is the struggle) which I have done several times. My mate who is "radio modern" says he will fix/train my transmitter 2.4 ghz on his computer my two rudder cup servos to do "mixing " like Ailerons to impart opposite throws so that the Kitchen cups will then turn such that "I have left and right rudder" in addition to normal opening and closing of the Kitchen rudder cups. I was not to impressed with the threaded screw tiller and the triangular wings mine is ALL brass to impart strength, as you have ALL on a base that imparts steering .I just found I lacked hull room for a swivelling base in my needing a beefy apparatus, as it weighs about 20 to 26 pounds at a guess, so far a lot of finishing still needed ,I love to build big, such is . Though I got off the track, your thoughts on the pressure gauge may be revealing to me ! Regards Lyle.

5 years ago by Lyle

Response

Re: Fire Monitors Part 4

Hi Martin, The cooling isn’t pumped. There is enough flow round the circuit just from the motion of the boat and the pressure from the prop. At least there was until I fitted the valve. Haven’t had chance to test it on the lake since I fitted that. If necessary, I could change the plumbing so that the pump is in the direct line from the pickup and runs all the time. That would increase flow through the cooling circuit, and the valves could still be used to switch the flow between cooling and monitors. Graham93

5 years ago by Graham93

Response

Re: SEAPLANE TENDER TANK TEST 2

Re -Hi Guys, I'm back from the dinner date Hi Doug, the lock mufflers are usually completely hollow and valveless, and they are really simple (like me) As I mentioned, they simply fill up to a volume that resists the exhaust pressure which then builds up and pushes the excess out (they are always mostly full and always below the motor) only takes a few seconds to cycle at idle (depending on motor and muffler type). Vid of one type working. JB

5 years ago by jbkiwi

Response

Re: SEAPLANE TENDER TANK TEST 2

Hi Guys, I'm back from the dinner date - keep the row down please I can't hear myself type!! "That's unless you have one of these nifty lock mufflers" One lives and learns JB 👍 The muffler sounds super! OK, then set about building one. I guess it has some kind of flap valve inside? Sounds much easier to add to smoke than smoke to , or does it just sound so? Rather U than me Gunga Din. Oh!And BTW don't forget to add "Smoke on the " to your sound system - REAL LOUD 😁 I unshipped the pump and pick-up from my Sea Scout (had used it for a steerable monitor experiment) now I'm tempted to put it back 😉 Happy head scratching JB 🤞 Cheers, Doug 😎

5 years ago by RNinMunich

Response

Re: SEAPLANE TENDER TANK TEST 2

Re - But that's just the exhaust, as I believe it should be That's unless you have one of these nifty lock mufflers Doug. Had one on the MkIII Zody motor in my 20 footer and they work really well. Exhaust comes from the manifold, cooling introduced and then goes into the muffler where it fills up and 'farts' out some of the continuously. The cools the exhaust and quietens it through the chamber in the muffler. You can tell if a boat has one (most do now days) by the burble burble pfupss sound from the exhaust (critics can invent their own sound description😊) You'd think they would melt being plastic, but that's how well they work! JB

5 years ago by jbkiwi

Forum

RC it ??

One of the guys in our group has successfully made an old pond boat into rc by putting a small cabin on deck housing a receiver and battery with a rudder servo. Sails are still manual but with a mid setting she sails well in most conditions. Cloth sails can be improved without changing them by putting on a clear proofing. I use thompsons seal which is totally clear and blocks the holes in the cloth so wind can't go through. Tent proofer has the same effect and you can get a spray can of it from most tent outlets. This gives a much improved catchment to the sail area.

5 years ago by Bryan-the-pirate

Blog

Evolution

Hi Guys, I decided that I would do a sort of a build log on this wacky project. This is another crazy idea that has been buzzing around in my head for a while. I have not used any measurements,drawings,plans,or photos. A Totally experiment ! It should work if I get it right. This will be a 2 channel surface runner when completed. I will not log every stage as it will get extremely boring, but if you have any questions then I will answer them as I go along. EVOLUTION is built around a drinking bottle. The first job was to attach some magnets so that the front will detach from the main body. The bottle is just to stop the electrical stuff from getting wet. In this log the photos will tell the story.(hopefully) Martin.

5 years ago by Martin555

Forum

1940 Chris Craft

My wife and I were in Gig Harbour, Washington State today where we were invited onboard by the owners of this beautiful boat. They told us, it is on the most of the year in Seattle. The boat is varnished every two years. It requires continual care as the salt is corrosive. Also seen was a nifty outboard; even the outboard motor cover is made of wood. A group of friends were seen enjoying a dockside luncheon. They said “Please take our picture” Very nice inboard Runabout.

6 years ago by Ronald

Response

Re: Evolution

I decided to use the bottle after doing some experiments for a tight compartment for a submarine as it has a really good seal to prevent the from getting in. I am still tinkering with that idea for a WTC but it is throwing up a few problems that need sorting out.

5 years ago by Martin555

Forum

Sea Commander restoration.

Evening Colin, Nowt on the haunted fish tank so I took another look at your pics. Something was itching at the back of my mind! Looking again at the last pic it occurred to me. I think I would be inclined to reverse the yoke on the rudder post, otherwise it's going to be blocked by the pickup / tube 😮 Just a thought. I still get one once in a while 😁 Cheers and G'night all, Doug 😎

5 years ago by RNinMunich

Event

SOUTH WEST SHIP SHOW

Our annual Ship Show with more model boat clubs than ever attending including Swindon MB & Engineering club, Cardiff Marine Modellers, Woodspring MSC, Peter Kenrick (OWLS MBC), Surface Warship Association, Shepton Mallet Drifters, Warminster MBC, and Cwmbran MBC. Adam Slater, a model boat manufacturer of Mountfleet Models, Doncaster will be present with his trade stand, and RC Bits on the Move will have modellers' bits and pieces available. This is all in addition to many of our regular stands with books, postcards, artwork, line ship models and more.

5 years ago by coastal1s

Directory

(Naval Ship) Sir Kay (T241)

This is my Sir Kay (T241) - Round Table Class Minesweeper. it is from the Caldercraft range and I was fortunate to recently acquire it - I would have much preferred to have built it but couldn't miss the opportunity of it being given to me by an old retiring modeller. it just needed new RC throughout, a good clean, a tidy up and some fresh paint here and there plus a bit of rigging renewal. Not tried it in the yet but will do tomorrow at our Club meet. (Motor: MFA Geared 2.5:1) (ESC: Mtroniks) (5/10)

6 years ago by ads90

Response

Re: Enclosing the controls.

Hi Alan. You are correct, I had tucked that leg of the aerial alongside the ESC and probably would have used that position but I'll take your advice and move it away as far as practical. I'll put it in a thin plastic tube at the front of the enclosure so it will be correctly distanced as you rightly suggest. I had not considered that any nasty RFI from the ESC (or any other acronyms 😉) would be an issue with 2.4G kit. The other leg of the aerial is passed through a hole in the side wall of the well deck into the hull cavity and extends forward, it's also above the line too so that should be OK. The aerial wires will be at 90 degrees to each other which I know is desirable too. BTW. I have developed the fan cooling of the motor a bit more so I'll post an update on that soon 😁. Thanks 👍👍. Rob.

5 years ago by robbob

Blog

Hull finishing touches

The Huntsman Hull has now had the finishing touches applied...Sanding Sealer, Eze-Kote, glassfibre sheet and hull chine bars added. The inside of the hull has been given a good dollop of Eze-Kote to seal it and proof it so next job is to fit the prop tube and motor before the whole hull gets a coat of primer... I've only just realised, but the kit from SLEC does not contain any decking, so I need to sort out whether to just go for plain mahogany veneer or try to find teak decking which is laser cut to fit with plank marks....any help or advice here welcome for a novice! (I can't find anything suitable on the internet). 😡

5 years ago by StuartE

Blog

Painting the hull – Part 1 primer & anti fouling.

There’s no putting it off any longer, I need to start painting the hull before I do any more on the boat so the hull was given a final rub down with a fine abrasive and then the deck and gunwales carefully masked off. I used some panel wipe to thoroughly de-grease all the surfaces and then put the hull in the ‘spray booth’ on my turntable and applied two coats of Halfords grey primer. I left this for a couple of days to dry and harden off before setting it on my bench. The next stage involves levelling the hull fore and aft and side to side so that the line can be established. Fortunately the well deck floor is meant to be perfectly level when the boat is afloat and at rest and this is the datum I used to level to using a couple of spirit levels. The rough line points were measured off the plan and transferred to the hull to be used as approximate starting points for the line. For my previous build I bought a self-levelling laser to indicate the line so this was brought out for the same purpose. The laser level was placed on another workbench a couple of metres away and gradually raised with packing pieces until the projected line agreed with the rough position marks I’d made on the hull and then finely adjusted until the line was correct and pencil marks made at intervals along the projected line. The process was repeated for the other side of the hull and then also marked across the stern, fortunately the stern line and bow markings joined up accurately confirming that the levelling was spot on. Good quality low tack masking tape was then applied all around the hull and the area above the line masked off with a couple of layers of newspaper. The exposed hull was then keyed with a fine Scotchbrite type pad and cleaned off with panel wipe before two coats of Halfords red oxide primer applied as the anti-fouling.

5 years ago by robbob

Response

Servo Mount

Hi reilly4. Thanks for your response. I didn't think it was a standard feature, it does seem to work though and I did note your cooled motor mounts too. Hi Mike. Sorry to hi-jack your thread 😉.

5 years ago by robbob

Forum

Planking

Hi Dave, I was faced with the same question last year when renovating and restoring the hull of an ancient Billing Boats Fish Cutter 'Gina 2' that I had inherited. The Blog gives blow by blow account of how I stabilised and proofed the hull. https://model-boats.com/builds/view/43305?goto=43306 Otherwise Haverlock is quite right too👍 I would have liked to have had a varnished wood finish but the original hull construction was so bad I had to fill it (after applying glass-fibre tissue to the inside) and the green filler gave it a tortoise shell effect!!😲 have fun. Cheers, Doug😎

5 years ago by RNinMunich

Blog

The motor cover.

I want to keep the motor cover as compact and in proportion as much as possible so I drew up a design to visualise it and get some practical working dimensions, it also needs to enclose the prop shaft and coupling, and the MT60 connection for the motor so there will not be very much free air space inside. Because of this the motor cover will need some ventilation as the brushless outrunner motor can’t be cooled and I don’t want to fit a fan, so the side panels of the box will need some gauze covered slots so that any heat generated can escape, assisted (perhaps) by the rotation of the motors outer ‘rotor’ creating some air movement. I don’t intend to run this boat very fast so I’m hoping that the motor will not get too hot anyway🤞. I transferred the dimensions of the side panels from my drawings to some 1.5mm obeche panels and cut the side pieces to size and cut out the ventilation slots, some framing pieces and cross braces were fitted internally and the whole assembly glued and clamped together. Additional framing was added to support the part that covers the shaft and coupling and obeche panels applied to these. Some finishing details were applied around the base and the top to improve the appearance. The internal framing will later incorporate some small cylindrical neodymium magnets that will hold the motor enclosure down on the deck, I’ll fit these later when the deck floor has been fitted. The mesh is some of the stainless steel mesh that I had used in the pickup tube on my RAF Crash Rescue Tender hoses, and this was cut to size and epoxied in place. The completed enclosure was finished with the same Teak stain as the rest of the boat. Next up will be an enclosure at the rear to conceal the control electronics.

5 years ago by robbob

Media

DS 30

Took time out from my new build to test float the barge I am building for my push boat to give it a long awaited float test for leaks and to mark the line. First decent day this winter!

5 years ago by Mariner85

Forum

Replacement motor

I agree but the heavy Surfury blasts along as it should being an off shore racer and much faster than when powered by an Irvine 61 plus it all stays nice and cool. it will take 6 s too but there is no need. The lighter Cigarette is running a 2045 KVA with 120 A speedo both cooled from HK, running a 45 mm prop on 4 cell again quick runs cool without hassle. I run 5s in a Pursuit 1650 KVA with 120A hk speedo, shallow V on 3 bladed bronze prop it goes like stink but not sure motor would take 6 s, so there are lots of combinations that seem to work ok

5 years ago by vortex

Forum

Replacement motor

I run 1100KVA brushless from HK cooled with 120A cooled speedo on 4s 5200`s in my Surfury and Cigarette 36" and they belt along with 50mm 2blade Mocom props but you dont have to run it flat out.

5 years ago by vortex

Forum

Shroud for Model Air Boat

Hello, Airboats are not something I have real experience with, but your one comment got my attention: SuperGlue, or CA, an abbreviation, as it is commonly referred to. It does not withstand constant exposure to . it is not proof. Now there is likely to be a storm of comments against this, but this is based upon experience over 20 years. CA is great and I do use it for some applications on my boats. However if it's below the line make certain to adequately sealed or properly painted over it. This is a good rule for most glues that sit below the , with the exception of truely proof glues like epoxy. Good luck with your projects. Cheers Joe

5 years ago by Joe727

Response

PS Iona - misc fittings

Thanks for the compliments! it's been a good project, just adding the final touches a couple of days ago. One bonus about paddle steamers is they don't usually take on as the paddle shafts are above the line👍

5 years ago by Harvey Kitten

Blog

6 Volts of Course of Course!

Captain's Log: The right battery for the job! I found a battery that volts and amp's are just right! The most important thing the right weight! The battery weigh's in at 3 lbs. 1 ounce. Which is just right for the Brooklyn! Give or take a once or two.... But, can be adjusted to trim the line! The battery is a 6 volt 8.5 amp battery. Which will power Brooklyn for 2.5 hours. Or 1.6 hours with her smoking unit on! Brooklyn will run on 5.2 amps with the smoker. Or 4.0 amps with out the smoker! Unfortunately you live and learn. I tried using the batteries from. Serenity, she's 12 volts 2.5 amps! This was no good, not enough power! Also the 12 batteries weigh too much! So, A 6 volt battery was the way to go! Next is replacing the motor and smoker! Am expecting the motor this morning! Will soon order the smoker! And again she will be completed. For a spring launching!👍

5 years ago by figtree7nts

Response

Sports cruiser ''ALI''

Planking by 2mm pvc. its not smooth. I normally use the paint putty,with cement powder. its good and proof.

5 years ago by Sakibian

Response

Sports cruiser ''ALI''

Hello, Looks good! I use PVC for all my wood. CA is not very resistant. if you can get the proof type PVC, use that. if not, if it is just a white glue, make sure all glued areas are covered with a proof coating. Such as varnish or paint. When I glue wood, I put glue on each joint, let it sit for a few minutes while it soaks into the wood grain. Apply a bit more glue and press together. Clamp or somehow hold the joint securely while it dries. Most PVCs take at least 30 minutes to set. Depending on the joint, I usually will come back a day later and fill any gap that may appear. PVC creats a joint stronger than wood. CA is brittle and the joint can snap. Give it a try and good luck to you. Joe

5 years ago by Joe727

Forum

Fairmile D 1/24 Scale Build

Hi biker, Depends on whether you want to build true scale model and build it 'right', or just a near scale 'Runabout'. Rowen has learned (with a little help form his friends 😉) to build it right which is extremely satisfying and the correct detail under truly compliments his superb detailing above the line. To me the two are inseparable. Seems to me that that is what Andy wants as well. I applaud him. About time we gave him some constructive answers - but first we need to know something about his boat:- Length, beam, probable max weight? If all you want is a near scale quickbuild fast runabout John there are plenty of ARTR/RTR options on the market. But then; that's just my opinion - and whadda I know!😁 Look forward to at least some pics / vids of your boat in action Biker. Cheers, Doug 😎

5 years ago by RNinMunich

Response

Motor, mount & prop-shaft.

How does an outrunner fare with heat when closed in? The one you are using is goint to be even more closed in as it has a box built round it. I have been reluctant with an outrunner in a hull for this reason. I have a Miss Geico with an inrunner which is fine as it has a jacket.

5 years ago by BOATSHED

Directory

(Naval Ship) March'71

The BEST thing about this one is, she's very smooth on the run. Decent power, makes it more fun. When it turns with speed, gets down like a bike. So that's the time when it leaks a tiny amount of . Bcz it's not proof on the deck. Can take 2s-3s Lipo. Bcz the motors are 3s rated only. Have a plan to change them into better Mabuchi ones. (Motor: 180 brushed motor) (ESC: Hnadmade by arduino) (8/10)

5 years ago by Sakibian

Blog

Weight Too Much!

Captain's Log: After careful consideration. I have decided to use only one battery at a time! This being 6.5 lbs. is way too much weight. Her bow is too low to the line. She get's thrown off by the weight. So, one battery at a time will be used! Now, having lowered the volts. From 12 volts to 6 volts is a problem. See her main motor and smoker. Are 12 volts each! So, now I have to replace. The main motor and the smoker. To a 6 volt system! This is not so easy. If any of you are familiar. With Dumas and Harbor model products. You know this ain't cheap!😭 Luckily, I will be selling both parts. Together next month! As both parts are in new condition! I will then order a 6 volt main motor and Smoker! Oh, each battery will give me about 1.5 hours of run time! And that's not bad at all..... NOTE: I'm only losing $10.00 on the resale of her Motor and Smoker!

5 years ago by figtree7nts

Response

Fitting the rubbing strakes.

Hi All. I'm frantically trying to get the boat to a reasonable state of completion for showing at the London Model Engineer Exhibition next weekend. I've finished painting the hull, just need to apply the white line and lacquer the hull with a satin finish. The pictures (taken today) show the current state so there's still a lot of detail to add to the decks and cabin. It will be definitely be displayed as 'work in progress'. Robbob.

5 years ago by robbob

Blog

Fitting the rubbing strakes.

Before I can apply the final coats of epoxy on the hull I need to fit the two rubbing strakes. I started with the bottom rubbing strake which runs along the chine where the side skins and bottom skins meet. The strakes meet the external keel at the bow and also extend across the stern. I used a length of square section of obeche which needed a gentle curve towards the bow, rather than steam the wood I soaked it in for a few minutes to soften it and then used a heat gun while bending the strip gently to the required curve. When the wood had cooled and dried the bend was set I did a test fit and drilled very fine holes through the strip so that the modelling pins I use to hold the piece in place would not split the wood. A 30 minute epoxy was used to fit the strakes on both sides of the hull and stern. Above this bottom strake is a second rubbing strake and this also meets the keel at the bow and runs across the stern, I used a broader and thinner obeche strip for this and it was prepared and fixed in the same way. The final pieces to fit will be the gunwales which run around the hull where the sides meet the deck but I will not fit them until I have planked the deck.

5 years ago by robbob

Forum

Smoke generator

Have just made a prototype of a fan forced smoker which seems to be working well (despite breaking the heater coil by moving it while hot, - had it apart, broke wire, screw and washer repair, not quite as hot) I bought a couple of Heng Long smokers (for R/C tanks or cars) to play with, for $10 NZ each(or 5.3 Euros to you Northerners give or take a yen) from Bangood and just bought another from Ebay. There seem to be 2 different models, as one has a long coil with a lamp wick draped over it, which is sitting in the oil reservoir, the other has a small coil inside a piece of heat resistant woven tubing (as you might find insulating toaster/heater wiring etc) which acts as a wick and that also sits in cotton wool in the reservoir, (this seems to be the better of the two) Tip - don't fill the tank right up, only enough to soak the cotton, element should be just out of the oil. The wick loads the element. The better model seems to have a black top to the tank (also maybe either brown or black tank) and the other has a brown top and dirty brown tank. As with most of this stuff you won't know till you get it what it's going to be. What I did was remove the tank and cut off the pump tube just in front of the screw lugs (see black line in photo) then fitted the tank, and a 40x40x10 5v ESC fan (voltage controlled by a UBEC set to 5v on the jumpers) into a plastic electronics utility box from Jaycar (our local electronics and hobby store). I made up a double JST lead for the 2s 1800Mah Lipo and fired it up (using baby oil). it's pretty much silent and smokes well once it gets warmed up, ( starts smoking in about 5 seconds) You could control it (on/off volume) by either a remote on/off switch or perhaps a small cheap 10A brushed ESC. I would leave the fan running and control the element to avoid burning the element. The original pump tank inlet hole seems ok as is (approx 1.5mm) but you could enlarge it very slightly to get a better flow if you could find a better oil. At the electronics store they have proper smoke machine oil for $20 NZ per litre so I may have a look at that. The reason I went for the fan idea was that I found in std pump form, if I immersed a tube from the tank in , it sucked back into the tank. I was hoping it would pump smoke out of my HSL exhausts at level alongside the cooling but it would need a very light non return valve to do this. The fan seems to pump the smoke through 2mm ID silicone tube ok, so tubing of similar ID to the OD of the tank outlets should work well. These pumps in original form work pretty well for the price, and are cheap enough to keep a few for spare elements, the only thing is they are a bit noisy but in an 'engine sounding' way, (might add to the effect on a tug or work-boat though) What you have left after this mod is a very handy little geared motor with an eccentric output wheel which could be used for winches, radar and whirly bits of any description (see pic of motor leftover and original) To avoid burnout, these should be run on no more than a 2s (around 7.5v-(suggest 8v max with fan running) The other tank is going to work a lot better than this one but I'm not making a tug, just want a bit of exhaust smoke on start-up etc to go with the 2 sound units. Very cheap to make (around $25 NZ with pump, box, fan and UBEC all through Ebay, Aliexpress and Bangood (and local electronics store) if you wanted to run an ESC to control the smoke and you have no channels left to control it proportionally, you can always try using a second receiver bound to your TX, (if your TX will allow it,) power it and a brushed ESC (wired to the element) as normal and use the throttle channel to plug in your smoke control. This should work if you want more smoke as you accelerate or if you are using only 1 stick on a 2 stick TX you could use your 'elevator' stick pushed up (or a toggle switch if available) to start/stop the smoke (through the brushed ESC setup) . This setup weighs 100g (10g more than std) The quest for lots of smoke continues Will try to upload vid later and update progress.

5 years ago by jbkiwi

Forum

Paint for Thames River Police Boat.

Can anyone confirm the correct colour for the hull of The Thames Police Boat above the line? I have seen various shades of blue on other models, some very light which doesn't look at all right, and some in black. The instructions state it should be a dark blue and I'd like to order a custom mixed RAL colour quite soon and I'm looking at RAL 5011 Steel Blue or possibly RAL 5004 Black Blue. Any advice appreciated. Robbob.

5 years ago by robbob

Response

Cooling coil

An outrunner is better for this type of boat as it is more torquey. if cooling is needed (and it may not) just use a proper cooled motor mount. Chris

5 years ago by ChrisF

Response

Vosper

Extremely impressive, a -cooled four stroke with reverse. You must have some great metal working abilities and nice equipment. Video was fun to watch! Joe

5 years ago by Joe727

Forum

Propshaft Lubrication

Hi All I use silicon tap grease as it's proof and add a bit more after each outing. Strip down, check for wear once a year and regrease. Started using Teflon bearings for the lower bearing which are holding up to the brushless motors. Canabus

5 years ago by canabus

Forum

All hooked up, nowt happens...

Hi Steve, I have the same problem with the ESCs in my HSL. They are cheap Chinese car models and can be a bit tricky to get into reverse quickly. I have found that either waiting a few seconds in neutral before trying reverse, or going to neutral and flicking the throttle forward a few clicks and back to neutral quickly (in .5 sec) usually sorts it. I think it may be that the motor stops somewhere that the cheaper ESCs can't detect (bit like an old car starter that hits the bald spot on the ring gear and you have to jog it a bit) so you have to move it slightly for it to 'see' it (maybe the capacitors also). Brushed ESCs don't have that problem as the brushes are in constant contact, rather than relying on correct positioning in Brushless motors. You will also find that some Chinese motors are not timed/wound correctly, and you can feel weak or 'floaty' spots between certain magnets which may also cause a problem. Perhaps trying a higher or lower ESC timing by 1 step either way might help if you have that capability. if it works by just flicking the throttle method, you can just slow down as you come in and take you time finding reverse in a scale like manner (remember the PT109 movie where they went through the shed on the wharf) You can also try swapping the other pairs of wires on the motor (same direction but different pairs). if you are still not happy then it might be time as Doug said, for a better ESC with instructions. Get one which has all the programing features, (fwd, rev , timing, auto batt detection (lipos or NmH etc) starting mode- ie soft,hard, brake etc) this will give you plenty of options for adjustment. Doesn't have to be a marine one, a good known brand car/buggy one will do and if you have any heat problems you can always put a mini fan on it. cooled marine ESCs are really only for high amp high speed setups. My 36"HSL has 2x 30A car ESCs running 2x 28/45 2000kv cooled motors and ESCs never get even warm. Pictured are the ESCs I am using from HK which have an output plug for a fan if needs be. The 3rd pic is the brushless ESC types (EBay, AliExpress) I am using, which have no problems with reverse transition (see vid section re Thornycroft MTB maneuvering) also the HSL vids to give you an idea of how these brushless ESCs perform even with the minor reversing problem. Hope you get it sorted.

5 years ago by jbkiwi

Directory

(Racing Boat) skytech H101

skytech racing boat with cooled engine.lts capable of 18 knots ! it has a self righting function and came with a spare battery pack,prop,oil and spanner. hope to have some fun with my grandson. (Motor: 380 cooled) (8/10)

5 years ago by keithtindley

Response

Cooling coil

Yes, that is what was thinking. Normally with brushless motors it is the motor mount that is cooled which draws the heat out of the motor. it may not need cooling anyway.

5 years ago by ChrisF

Blog

Hum, Now What!

Captain's Log: Continued! I have found where the leak is coming from! It's coming from above the shaft as it exits the hull! I'm not sure why it's leaking. The area is tricky to get to. As it's deep in the hull! An hard to get to. Since the hull is made of plastic. Am thinking of making a flange plate! And gluing it to the aft end of the hull On the outside of the hull! But, of course need to see where the leak. Is coming from the outside...…. I have already looked into getting a pump. Also a detection circuit to activate the pump!

5 years ago by figtree7nts

Blog

1-35 Scale Schenllboot By TeeJay

Hi all for the second blog report on the schnellboot I am going to go over the rudder a propeller shaft assembly in more detail. The first stage was to make the rudders which were made of brass ,and having taken note of what has been said about the increase in size needed for the kit by other members I have increased the size of the rudders by 50% so that they have more effect and hopefully the boat will be more agile .I fitted 3mm treaded rod on to the rudder and in a 4mm flanged tube to reinforce the brass rod. The second stage was to make and fit 5mm flanged tube in the location for the rudders in the boat, these were made to be above the line and will be sealed in place to reduce the possibility of leaks. These were fitted to a rudder platform inside the boat which was fitted to the kit moulding for the rubbing strip that runs the length on the boat and secured by making resin blocks which were fitted with computer extension nuts. which were then superglue in place to secure the rudder platform. The rudders were then fitted in place and held in position with the tiller collars which were made from 8mm rod and fitted the tiller arms and locked in place with 3mm computer screws and ni-lock nuts, a connecting plate was then fitted to connect the three tillers together, I also fitted rubberised washers to seal the rudder tubes. The third stage was to make the propeller supports. The centre support was a direct copy of the kit part made of brass and fitted to the kit with a plate and screws (this plate and the rudder plate were made from galvanised steel) and will sealed with resin after the I test the boat for leaks. The port and starboard supports were made by taking the kit parts and cutting them in have along the joint line or mould seam this gave me a template ,which I used to make cross-section segments but I did alter the template by increasing the boss diameter to 10mm and extending the support legs so that the finished support could be fitted through the hull (the picture of these show the mk1 version where I forgot to allow for the 4mm prop shaft which has a 6mm tube) any way the boss of these segments were drilled out with a 7mm drill and a length of 7mm brass tube fitted through the boss to assemble the segments, all of which were coated in soldering flux at this stage of the assembly which were riveted at both ends to hold it all together during soldering, after soldering the supports were then filed to the size and shape to resemble the kit parts as close as possible and fitted to the hull using a superglue and talcum powder mix and then I cast resin around the extensions to secure the prop supports in place. The fourth stage is the propeller shaft housing for the centre propeller housing I place a brass rod in a plastic straw and place in position in hull and using resin I sealed the hull with the rod in place this gave me a pilot hole for the centre prop shaft after I removed the brass rod. For the port and starboard shafts I used the kit parts which had hole place when assembled, this when I reinforced the housings ,the centre housing I glue 2mm of plasticard on each side and for the port and starboard I made a brass tube shroud which covered the housings which left gaps between the kit part and the brass which was filled by casting resin in the gap this increased the diameter to 10 mm so that there were little chance of breaking throw with the drill and finished these off by fill-in the outside with body filler and sanded to shape and finish . I then drilled through the pilot hole in the housings using very long extended drills and a wheel brace ( if I had use a power drill the heat would have melted the plastic of the kit and may have caused problems) I drill the shaft housings out 6mm them filed them out with 6mm file so that I could insert a length of 6mm brass tube. After all this was done I fitted a flanged bush made from 7mm tube and 2mm brass plate turned to 11mm to the ends or the propeller shaft housings. And now it is time I must ask for some help could anyone advise me on the length of propeller shafts, I know I can use a 300mm shaft for the centre shaft, but port and starboard will have to be longer. and I also need advice on selecting the motors, I want to use 4mm prop shaft with 35mm propellers. Any opinions welcome.

6 years ago by teejay

Response

Oh, NO Everywhere!

Maybe through the oiler tube Ed? I put a length of silicon tube on mine to ensure that the opening is well above the line. Also makes oiling easier 😉 In your photo it looks like there is some liquid near the top of the oiler!? Seasons Greetings to you and 'Better Half', cheers, Doug 😎

5 years ago by RNinMunich

Blog

Oh, NO Everywhere!

Captain's Log: Ok, I like to float Tug Brooklyn! Last night I did this. I filled the tub with . Then placed Tug Brooklyn. I left it alone for about half an hour. When I came back. I started looking at her. She looked different in some way. I hadn't realized she was taking on . anyway I looked at her line. And her line was below the ! I then took her superstructure. Off of her when I looked inside. I was shocked to find. She had taken on more than 12 ounces of ! I then started to panic! I went and got my syringe. Which I had purchased just in case ever got into her. And started pumping out all the she had in her! I'm not sure where she's leaking from! Or why she is leaking! There's only one opening in the Hull. And that's where the shaft comes out of! Going to have to do another float test. to see where the is coming in from! I'm glad I discovered this before next boating season!

5 years ago by figtree7nts

Forum

Pretend deck planking

Hi Steve, What went wrong? 😲 1. Drawing on deck planking, i.e. on a veneer or thin ply- Why/how did it go wrong? Surely since the planks are all 'parallel curves' all you need to do is make a curve template in plasticard from the plan. Then at a few strategic points along the plank length mark the widths of the planks. Set the template along these points and 'Bob's yer Uncle - Fanny's yer Aunt' 😉 Mind you; doing it that way the 'curious grain of the planks' would betray the fiddle🤔 2. 'what type of strip wood - Any very close grained type. Possible source- http://www.slecuk.com/index.html 3. How to glue it!? Any thin, spreadable proof wood glue! 4. Gap? Max 0.5mm perhaps. Ca 10 to 1 ratio. 5. 'How do you secure the bent planks whilst the glue dries? Modelling pins at strategic points along the plank. Assumes planks are pre-shaped by steaming!! See 6. 😉 6. 'Do I need to steam the planks? - YES! As mentioned above; make a template defining the curve required. From this make a jig of ca 5mm x 10mm in which you can set the steamed planks to cool and set to the shape required. To allow for the so called 'spring back' make the jig with a slightly sharper curve than the actual deck curve. When fitting the planks to the deck it's easier to 'push them out' than to try to increase the curvature. Finally; mark on the deck base the plank widths at strategic points along the plank length as alignment points. Glue planks alternately left/right (OK port/starboard😉) using modelling pins to hold in place until the glue is fully cured. For the 'gaps' There are various solutions in Build Blogs on this site. One that I like is the use of thin black card. When the whole deck is planked and properly cured sand lightly (ca 240 grit). 7. 'weathered teak' there are various suppliers of teak stain and also deck weathering stains; e.g. Jotika stain, Lifecolor Washes for Hulls and Wooden Decks, set part no. LP04, which includes Wooden deck darkener and Shadower, amongst other useful weathering pigments. http://www.astromodel.it Google Lifecolor and you'll surely find some UK distributors. Enough answers for enough questions!? 😁 Hope this provides some inspiration, Cheers, Doug 😎

5 years ago by RNinMunich