Response

Servo Mount

Hi reilly4. Thanks for your response. I didn't think it was a standard feature, it does seem to work though and I did note your motor mounts too. Hi Mike. Sorry to hi-jack your thread 😉.

5 years ago by robbob

Blog

The motor cover.

I want to keep the motor cover as compact and in proportion as much as possible so I drew up a design to visualise it and get some practical working dimensions, it also needs to enclose the prop shaft and coupling, and the MT60 connection for the motor so there will not be very much free air space inside. Because of this the motor cover will need some ventilation as the brushless outrunner motor can’t be and I don’t want to fit a fan, so the side panels of the box will need some gauze covered slots so that any heat generated can escape, assisted (perhaps) by the rotation of the motors outer ‘rotor’ creating some air movement. I don’t intend to run this boat very fast so I’m hoping that the motor will not get too hot anyway🤞. I transferred the dimensions of the side panels from my drawings to some 1.5mm obeche panels and cut the side pieces to size and cut out the ventilation slots, some framing pieces and cross braces were fitted internally and the whole assembly glued and clamped together. Additional framing was added to support the part that covers the shaft and coupling and obeche panels applied to these. Some finishing details were applied around the base and the top to improve the appearance. The internal framing will later incorporate some small cylindrical neodymium magnets that will hold the motor enclosure down on the deck, I’ll fit these later when the deck floor has been fitted. The mesh is some of the stainless steel mesh that I had used in the water pickup tube on my RAF Crash Rescue Tender hoses, and this was cut to size and epoxied in place. The completed enclosure was finished with the same Teak stain as the rest of the boat. Next up will be an enclosure at the rear to conceal the control electronics.

5 years ago by robbob

Forum

Replacement motor

I agree but the heavy Surfury blasts along as it should being an off shore racer and much faster than when powered by an Irvine 61 plus it all stays nice and cool. it will take 6 s too but there is no need. The lighter Cigarette is running a 2045 KVA with 120 A speedo both from HK, running a 45 mm prop on 4 cell again quick runs cool without hassle. I run 5s in a Pursuit 1650 KVA with 120A hk speedo, shallow V on 3 bladed bronze prop it goes like stink but not sure motor would take 6 s, so there are lots of combinations that seem to work ok

5 years ago by vortex

Forum

Replacement motor

I run 1100KVA brushless from HK watercooled with 120A watercooled speedo on 4s 5200`s in my Surfury and Cigarette 36" and they belt along with 50mm 2blade Mocom props but you dont have to run it flat out.

5 years ago by vortex

Blog

Fitting the rubbing strakes.

Before I can apply the final coats of epoxy on the hull I need to fit the two rubbing strakes. I started with the bottom rubbing strake which runs along the chine where the side skins and bottom skins meet. The strakes meet the external keel at the bow and also extend across the stern. I used a length of square section of obeche which needed a gentle curve towards the bow, rather than steam the wood I soaked it in water for a few minutes to soften it and then used a heat gun while bending the strip gently to the required curve. When the wood had cooled and dried the bend was set I did a test fit and drilled very fine holes through the strip so that the modelling pins I use to hold the piece in place would not split the wood. A 30 minute epoxy was used to fit the strakes on both sides of the hull and stern. Above this bottom strake is a second rubbing strake and this also meets the keel at the bow and runs across the stern, I used a broader and thinner obeche strip for this and it was prepared and fixed in the same way. The final pieces to fit will be the gunwales which run around the hull where the sides meet the deck but I will not fit them until I have planked the deck.

5 years ago by robbob

Response

Cooling coil

An outrunner is better for this type of boat as it is more torquey. if cooling is needed (and it may not) just use a proper motor mount. Chris

5 years ago by ChrisF

Response

Vosper

Extremely impressive, a water-cooled four stroke with reverse. You must have some great metal working abilities and nice equipment. Video was fun to watch! Joe

5 years ago by Joe727

Forum

All hooked up, nowt happens...

Hi Steve, I have the same problem with the ESCs in my HSL. They are cheap Chinese car models and can be a bit tricky to get into reverse quickly. I have found that either waiting a few seconds in neutral before trying reverse, or going to neutral and flicking the throttle forward a few clicks and back to neutral quickly (in .5 sec) usually sorts it. I think it may be that the motor stops somewhere that the cheaper ESCs can't detect (bit like an old car starter that hits the bald spot on the ring gear and you have to jog it a bit) so you have to move it slightly for it to 'see' it (maybe the capacitors also). Brushed ESCs don't have that problem as the brushes are in constant contact, rather than relying on correct positioning in Brushless motors. You will also find that some Chinese motors are not timed/wound correctly, and you can feel weak or 'floaty' spots between certain magnets which may also cause a problem. Perhaps trying a higher or lower ESC timing by 1 step either way might help if you have that capability. if it works by just flicking the throttle method, you can just slow down as you come in and take you time finding reverse in a scale like manner (remember the PT109 movie where they went through the shed on the wharf) You can also try swapping the other pairs of wires on the motor (same direction but different pairs). if you are still not happy then it might be time as Doug said, for a better ESC with instructions. Get one which has all the programing features, (fwd, rev , timing, auto batt detection (lipos or NmH etc) starting mode- ie soft,hard, brake etc) this will give you plenty of options for adjustment. Doesn't have to be a marine one, a good known brand car/buggy one will do and if you have any heat problems you can always put a mini fan on it. marine ESCs are really only for high amp high speed setups. My 36"HSL has 2x 30A car ESCs running 2x 28/45 2000kv motors and ESCs never get even warm. Pictured are the ESCs I am using from HK which have an output plug for a fan if needs be. The 3rd pic is the brushless ESC types (EBay, AliExpress) I am using, which have no problems with reverse transition (see vid section re Thornycroft MTB maneuvering) also the HSL vids to give you an idea of how these brushless ESCs perform even with the minor reversing problem. Hope you get it sorted.

5 years ago by jbkiwi

Directory

(Racing Boat) skytech H101

skytech racing boat with engine.lts capable of 18 knots ! it has a self righting function and came with a spare battery pack,prop,oil and spanner. hope to have some fun with my grandson. (Motor: 380 ) (8/10)

5 years ago by keithtindley

Response

Cooling coil

Yes, that is what was thinking. Normally with brushless motors it is the motor mount that is which draws the heat out of the motor. it may not need cooling anyway.

5 years ago by ChrisF

Blog

New bits

Right, just been given some nice bits. Brushless outrunner FUSION 3535/05 1500kv ESC Top Edge 60A SC060B Plus a coupling. So now to go shopping. Which make of Lipo3 and from where? What type and size of brass prop? Where to buy silicon wires and the fancy gold terminals? Steve

5 years ago by steve-d

Forum

Twin Motor Perkassa

I attach some pics of my 34" Perkassa. It uses two large brushed motors (650?). Two Mtronic 25amp ESCs with one red wire disconnected. You can see the ESCs on off switches over the former in the next to last pic. Presently has a Planet Tx/rx and I use 9.6v or 8.4v NiMhs of 3 to 5 amps. Not fused (naughty). The battery sits between the prop shafts towards the stern in a tray. I control the motors on the left and right sticks with the rudder on the right horiz stick. The left stick has a ratchet so I set the speed with that and use the right sticks to keep straight and steer. As an ex flyer this is an easy set up for me. Run time is about 10/15 mins but that's long enough for me and the other models on the lake!

7 years ago by Dave M

Response

20th Scale ELCO 80ft PT boat part 9

I would check out the back plates for the out- runners as they will possibly run real hot if at all loaded up without cooling, unless you have fans like aircraft propellers (even then and in open air they still get hot!) I would look at this seriously to avoid cooking your motors. Hobby King usually has various cooling parts, or EBay, Aliexpress, Banggood etc. Bit late now I suppose, but in-runners (around 2000kv 28mm diam) are a better idea for boats. You can buy in-runners and water jackets to fit them as I did but they need flushing after use with CRC or similar to avoid rust, (I'll be copper tube wrapping the next lot, then there are no worries)

6 years ago by jbkiwi

Media

ASR 64ft R/C VID 2

Boat is Scratch built 36" British Power Boat 64ft High Speed ASR Launch which belonged to the RNZAF. The launch was one of the 22 built and was shipped to NZ in 1940. it was the only one of its type in the Southern Hemisphere. Model has twin motors, ESCs, sound units etc. Has remotely switched water pump for brushless 2000kv in runner motors and remotely switched lighting. Uses 2x 2200mah 2s LiPos for drive and 1 1800mah LiPo for the pump (also a separate battery for the LED lights. Boat is built with strip planked balsa on ply frame and fiber glassed. Deck is ply, wheelhouse is varnished balsa. The colour is as it was for most of its time in the RNZAF . Took about 5 years on and off to build and finished it last year. (please ignore the time date - can't get rid of it .

6 years ago by jbkiwi

Forum

EarlyVosper M.T.B by Simplas

Hi Onetenor Fuji 15 was a good glow engine which I don't think it is manufactured any more. Aero version max B.H.P was just below .40 when tested. if it was in a model aircraft it would have been around .20 to .25 depending on prop size which was good then for a small capacity glowplug . Marine versions when on the water put out a little less and the jacket was never as efficient as the finned cylinder jacket of the aero version. My two Aerokits boats, the Sea Commander and the Crash Tender are powered by single Speed 600 motors running on either 8.4 or 9.6 volt Ni Mh batteries. Performance is equal to that of marine diesel power such as the 2.46 Ed Racer and D.C 2.46 Rapier, the latter I used to watch in the fast steering events in the early 1960s at Fleetwood and Coronation Park in Crosby just outside Liverpool. Taycol powered versions would be obviously slower due to the additional weight were far more reliable and you did not have to put up with injuries from excessive use of a starting cord with kids watching and "extracting the urine" shouting "why wont it go mister". Boaty

6 years ago by boaty

Forum

S.H.Grainger Formula Powerboat

Hi Steve im not sure now regarding motors as they have water cooling cans on but Surfury runs from memory a 1075kva motor Turnigy 160 A speedo watercooled on 2x2s 5200 lipo`s in series ie 14.4volts with 52mm mocom Alum prop approx 3hp. I think the Tornado has approx 2045kva motor same speedo + lipo`s x 50mm nylon prop both do scale speed to as fast as 40/61 IC and look great on our choppy water with just prop and rudder in the water. Both motors will take 6s if you like ballistic? All gear from Hobby king. Try the IC first, post some pics please

6 years ago by vortex

Blog

Painted outside

Finish painting and adding some stickers, and a couple of pictures of the real thing. Fitted Motor in a jacket and motor mount. The motor is a 3650 and is rated as 3060kv Max Power: 1300W Max Voltage: 19V Max Amps: 68A Shaft Diameter: 3.2mm Shaft Length: 15mm Connector: 5.0mm Banana Connector Net Weight: 181g Servo fitted sideways via rubber bellows to external rudder fixed to transom.

6 years ago by CB90

Forum

Lifeboat plans

Spitfires in this case are kneeler o/b powered vintage race boats. I thought I had 2 on the go, one for me and one for someone else, but I just found one! Oh well, one's enough. The dollies are needed to look like they're driving these things. They accept 1/6th scale dollies and I even have a suit of clothes bought off ebay for him! I bought an outboard motor from Hobbyking without fitted motor for bugger all, but now see that the same thing is £45 quid without brushless, which needs to be a 28mm watercooled inrunner. I'm going to need one of the those to fit the shaft and all that, but can only find one for 31 quid. it seems HK have been upping their prices lately! Do you have any reccomendations for where to get such an animal a little cheaper? I need the motor, I now realise, to build the dummy Godiva casing round it. It's supposed to be around 2300Kv, but the only ones HK have are more. is that very important? Martin

6 years ago by Westquay

Forum

Spektrum, new, useless...

As reported elsewhere, I have today received the FlySky RC set and it works...perfectly.....straight outa the box as it's PRE-BOUND! And my dear bride has let me have it before my birthday. Although I still have to wait for the Crash Tender Yeoman fittings kit! I would like to use something old in the Crash Tender as it is old itself, so I guess I'd better have a look at your circuit diagrams Doug,as far as suppression and even ESCs are concerned. I have found 3 ESCs today. One I knew of and 2, WITH their instruction in best Chenglish that I had no memory of! Water -cooled too! I'll send you a photo of them. Cheers, Martin

6 years ago by Westquay

Blog

H.M.S. BRAVE BORDERER

Decided to retry with the 2S battery and the original scale style propellers. Concluded that the speed is fine, especially in the windy conditions encountered and in a small pool that limited acceleration. The model had a very flat plane, must adjust the transom flap angle to see what effect that has. The forefoot did not rise much from the water surface. Was frustrated by the “stutter” referred to in the last blog, noticed this occurred on the two out shafts only and when the starboard was operated after the port was running. Swopped the starboard motor over with the centre one to see what effect it would have. As started to remove the motor noted that a connector was not tight and that the screw had corroded. Exchanged motors, removed all connectors then cleaned and refitted using a water resistant lubricant. The stutter seemed cured. Another lesson learnt, when dealing with these high currents every connection is tested and all defects exposed. The opportunity to retest using a 3S battery arose so installed it, all worked fine on the bank. Put the model in the water and a major short occurred. 2 fuses blew and about 6” of wiring melted and burnt through the insulation. At least there was no hull damage! Did an inquest and, apart from the damage described, also found the starboard ESC and motor had failed. These were the ones where the “stutter” originated, but cannot see any correlation between the two problems. Discussed the model with some of fellow scale modelers and concluded that the 4500kV motors are unsuitable for the scale propellers used. Every suggestion points toward motors in the 1 – 2000kV range. As now needed to obtain a new motor and ESC, decided to reequip both outer shafts with 2000kv motors and ESCs. Felt modifying these outer shafts would allow assessment of this new drivetrain combination, could then decide what approach to take with the centre shaft. Due to the mounting and driveshaft arrangement, the choice of motors was restricted to 28mm O/D with a 1/8” shaft size. Unfortunately, suitable items are on back-order from Hong Kong, so there will be no further updates for a while.

6 years ago by Rowen

Forum

Brushless motor selection

Hi robhenry What volt battery are you running at present ?? 12 or 24 volts. If 24 volts those motors spec at 24,000rpm. Power is 511 Watts on 24 volts. 24,000 divide by 14.8(4S Lipo batteries) equal 1612 kv. So the closest motor would be 1700kv, eg 3660SL-1700kv which has a 5mm shaft and 44mm diameter with a length of 60mm( from Hobbyking). Power rated at 1800 Watts on 6S, so it would be lower than that. But if you are running 12 volts on the Graupner motor it would be about half the rpms. These brushless motors are far more powerful so check out the specs on the motors you are looking at !!! Canabus

6 years ago by canabus

Blog

Paint job

Installed hardware used brushless 2860 4050kv motor with water-cooled mount and jacket, kept prop-shaft at a low angle. It drives really well to the extent that its too good to race so I have started again with another boat for racing.

6 years ago by CB90

Forum

It's a sad day!.

If you see on my list above after the engine size if a D was noted its diesel and all these engines were for boat use and . However my father did make any parts needed so conversion to water cooling jacket on an engine was no problem if needed. Stephen.

6 years ago by Novagsi0

Forum

It's a sad day!.

Someone mentioned ED motors! My Dad's old Sea Commander had one before I converted it to electric, but I still have it (in a box on the wardrobe!) Can anybody tell me anything about it? it is marked as an ED MK4 with what looks like a serial number of 4G147. it is and has a variable throttle. I cant see how the ignition worked but it has a large tug-start fly/pully wheel on the drive shaft. Any info gratefully received. Ian

6 years ago by IanD

Forum

Proboat Impulse 31

Used Proboat "Impulse 31" in good condition. Deep "V" ready to run speedboat capable of 45+mph 1750kv 4 pole brushless motor Dynamite 120amp electronic speed controller Flex shaft drive system Offset rudder set up Use with dual LiPO's with EC5 connectors (batteries not supplied) 2.4Ghz upgraded Spektrum DX4C transmitter and SR210 receiver. Length 31 inches (787mm) Beam 9 inches (229mm) Height 3.66 inches (93mm) £200 plus p&p

6 years ago by Flack

Forum

47'' Fireboat power question

I have a 47" classic Fireboat which I would like to use my G-60 500kv electric motor with a 6s Lipo battery and a 120 amp watercooled esc. I wondered if anyone could give me anyone idea of what prop size to start with experimenting to give best power anyone and endurance ? I am told the G-60 is the electric equivalent of a 10cc glow engine, so what size would go on that might be a start. Thanks in anticipation, Dave W 😊

6 years ago by rolfman2000

Forum

Brushless Programming Cards

Thanks for your responses, please note this ESC does not have a brand name (generic Chinese job) and it didn't have any mention of a card on the instructions. Anyway I tried it on 2 cards I have got and they did not work, resorted to sticks and code tones to turn off the break function. Boat ran well if a bit too powerful, may use 7.4v instead of 11.1v Features: 200A Brushless ESC with 5V/5A SBEC Water cooling. Waterproof design(Need to use 704 silicone rubber by yourself). This super simple boat series comes with a limited range of programming functions and are designed to be plug-n-play. A perfect ESC for those looking for something simple to use and economic. Specifications: Cont current: 200A Burst current: 230A BEC model: Switch BEC output: 5V/5A Recommend battery: Li-ion/Lipoly 2-7S;Ni-MH/Ni-Cd 6-20NIMH Cooling: Watercooled ESC weight: 124g ESC size: 92mm * 40mm * 22mm Please note only cost £17 at the time , now £32 (4/2018) via Amazon

6 years ago by CB90

Directory

(Racing Boat) Interceptor

Zoom 1 (Interceptor) Mono boat. Built from a Glassfibre hull, brought on Ebay for £35 the hull is a slim mono racing type with a self-righting side cabin it runs a 1400W 14V 2958 4200KV Brushless Motor and 29-S Water Cooling Jacket with additional air cooling fan. I did not want to use a flexi drive as high maintenance and prone to failure so the shaft runs via two universal joint one at each end. the propeller is a 38mm copper alloy The ESC is a 200A and the twin rudders supply separate water one for the motor and one for the ESC. The rudder are positioned to reduce prop-walk and are hinged to prevent damage if hit a object in the water and ride adjustment. Turn fins and trim tabs for ride adjustment were provided by a spares kit for another boat. also foamed and added an inner sealed hatch, a rubber bump strip and safety loop. The Boat is fast and over-powered used at half throttle, may use a 7.4v lipo instead, the self righting works well. 20th April 2018 while running on 11.1v the boat stopped, no response on retrieval it was found that the manufacturers battery connector had melted and the connection lost see later pictures. the battery was made by FLOUREON and was a 35C with 5500mah capacity the 80A fuse had not blown. (Motor: 2958 watercooled) (ESC: Unknown 200A) (8/10)

6 years ago by CB90

Blog

more progress.

First job today was to reduce the rudders by 1cmx1cm which I think not only looks better but should reduce the affects that have been mentioned in comments below. Ive fitted the cockpit which I assembled yesterday. its not the best fit into the deck, however, I shall blend it all in with some balsa strip, sand, filler, sanding sealer hopefully for a seamless finish. I have pictured the 2 x Hobbyking waterproof boat 30 amp esc. These are supposed to be , however I am not going to fit the tubing and start drilling water pickup and exit holes in the hull x 4 until I think that water cooling is going to be necessary. Once I have watt meter readings for 2S and 3S lipo, it will give me an idea what the ESC are going to be like. Of course if you guys think I need to go water cooling, please let me know! I have an Mtroniks W-tail mixer that will allow the motors to be synched to the rudders allowing the inboard motor to slow or stop when turning. Never used one before, so may need to some programming once hooked up, we shall see. Last job today was to shoot a could of coats of red oxide primer on the lower hull to see what the resin finish was like. on the whole not a bad finish at all, just a could of tiny areas that need a little sanding for a faily blemish free finish.

6 years ago by Skydive130

Media

Zoom 1 (Interceptor)

Zoom 1 (Interceptor) Mono boat. Built from a Glassfibre hull, brought on Ebay for £35 the hull is a slim mono racing type with a self-righting side cabin it runs a 1400W 14V 2958 4200KV Brushless Motor and 29-S Water Cooling Jacket with additional air cooling fan. I did not want to use a flexi drive as high maintenance and prone to failure so the shaft runs via two universal joint one at each end. the propeller is a 38mm copper alloy The ESC is a 200W and the twin rudders supply separate water one for the motor and one for the ESC. The rudder are positioned to reduce prop-walk and are hinged to prevent damage if you hit a object in the water and also for ride adjustment. Turn fins and trim tabs for ride adjustment were provided by a spares kit for another boat. also foamed and added an inner sealed hatch, a rubber bump strip and safety loop.

6 years ago by CB90

Forum

Too Powerful Brushless ?

I think you might need pointing in a direction, so I had a quick look on Hobbyking, and this motor is the sort of thing you can use, although this particular one would need you to swop the shaft around, this is just a guide, other s will no doubt add comment, its the right size, 5mm shaft, right kv and watts. https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-g15-brushless-outrunner-810kv.html brushless esc https://hobbyking.com/en_us/hobbyking-90a-boat-esc-4a-sbec.html you don't need the high amp capability, but its reversing, programmable, , and has an sbec, so the main battery power this 5 mm shaft, move your motor to the centre section meaning weight distribution is more central, and you can now use a shorter shaft, and get a couple off plastic "x" props, I would say 40 to 45mm will be the one. This will give a good speed, and you can power on 3 cells or 4 cells lipo, get higher c rating (40c or more) and higher mah so you have fuel in the tank available https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-battery-3000mah-4s-40c-lipo-pack-xt-60.html This is just a guide, a starting point, as I feel you are unsure where to start, others with more knowledge will come in regarding this, having experience with lipo, brushless, 3 foot ply boats, and esc's, depending on budget, this would be the sort of thing I would be getting.

6 years ago by pmdevlin

Forum

46'' Firefloat What Motor/Battery

Hi John, you might now be scratching your head, and wishing you have not asked the original question! This seems to be a common issue, as the boating community is light years behind the other disciplines, rc cars, planes helis and so on, its probably due to the facts general boating doesnt really need the later generation technology, the average boater age is probably higher than the other disciplines so budgeting might be an issue, and there is less younger blood in the clubs to explain the lipo/brushless etc. We see posts with a load of numbers, specs, warnings etc, its enough to put people off. Im a big fan of brushless/lipo/ 2.4 etc, been doing it for years, its cheaper and more efficient (once you have the basics) but for the average guy, who just wants to spend an easy afternoon at the local lake gently cruising around, brushed motors, nimhs batteries, even lead acid, will do the job👍 Your 4 foot ply boat, once painted, with fittings, will be heavy, I know, I own one. Those 600 motors are not big enough, they are better suited to the smaller 3 foot boat, then, pushing them with a 6v lead acid, just cant do it. The battery will be screaming HELP!! I started 15 years back exactly the same, 600 motor, 6v battery, massive 50mm prop, I knew no better and took advise from people who didnt know what they were talking about😡, remember those gold hi tech speed controllers!! I had one, it melted, literally melted on the first use😭 Get 700 size motors, they will need to be , as mentioned by jarvo, the nominal voltage or below isnt good enough, power them at the max voltage. Brushed means you can use one apropriate esc, look out for electronize (are they still in existance?) or mtroniks, preferably use nimhs batteries over lead acid with a high mah. If after all this you want to venture into lipos and brushless motors, go to a club, spot a boat that is similar in size to yours, if you like the performance talk to the owner and gain experience and knowledge that way, it will save money, lost time and a lot of disappointment, I have been there so feel your pain. I say I would never go back to brushed motors and none lipo batteries, but I always want silly speed, not runtime, after 15 minutes Ive had enough and am bored. Rambling over! My 4 foot boat is twin brushless and uses 4 lipo 5000mah cells per motor, it will do 25mph for 15 mins, then I go home😁 Message is, you can get a "reasonable" performance from brushed motors, with the correct batteries, right props, but weight is the enemy. Looks lie you are at Biddulph, get onto Dave M a moderator on here, and arrange to go over to see the crewe and district boys on one of their sailing days, take your boat with you, they will help👍

6 years ago by pmdevlin

Forum

34'' Crash Tender - prop / rudder type

Mark, thanks for the tip on being able to cut the post and tube on the medium rudder to fit under the deck...... I am planning to use a D 3542/1000 kv motor with max power of around 600W......not wanting to go for - I was trying to keep the heat down.......this was my reasoning for the 35 mm prop dia - 3 bladed brass for a higher efficiency. Did you have any idead what type ( A,C or D) of 3 bladed prop I should go for? Cheers - Peter

6 years ago by pmdent

Forum

DPI Silencer (AKA The Tiddler)

For sale is my DPI kits built Silencer (renamed Tiddler) 25" length 8" Beam 12 volt watercooled brushed motor brushed Jeti 30a ESC + Rudder servo V Fast on 3s never tried a 4s though, anyone here brave enough ? Contact me on here or on 07958263772 (evenings please)

6 years ago by bilzin

Forum

motors

hi last ditch effort before i take up knitting recap presedent huntsman 46 inch wooden kit hobbyking turnigy aquastar 408 4-1050kv brushless 160a esc thank you all for your help steve

6 years ago by pilot

Blog

Planking complete!

Finished “Costa” planking today and have put in most of the edge strip (need more strip, model shop Friday!). Jobs to do before I start the superstructure, finish laying out the RC components, fit rudder parts, make battery tray etc. Put in a 1/4 square strip around deck opening to prevent water ingress. Couple of coats of resin inside radio bay, 1 more outside, sand and prime. Sand, stain and yacht varnish deck. One question on a water pick-up as using a ESC! Outlet will be in the transom, does it matter where the pick-up is located?

6 years ago by Skydive130

Forum

Sea Queen Prop shaft

Hi AndyG Not sure what type of coupling was supplied but I use a common Universal coupling on my 48" Sea Queen and use a brushless 42 size 850Kv motor of 700 watts and it is happy driving a Prop Shop prop of 42mm at 45 amp on full throttle. Power is from an 11.1v Lipo of at least 2200 mA but Nimhs would work, just not as fast and less duration. My motor is mounted in the main cabin and I have no problem with the prop shaft. Originally designed for IC power so perhaps you have heard of problems when we used such powerful and not so well controlled devices. My model goes on the plane very easily and any more power would make it unstable. Pics attached to show my set up. You can just see the coupling in front of the motor.

7 years ago by Dave M

Forum

Motor problem

Scout13 I only have one battery connected at a time, with two batteries in situ I can use the other one when the first one is flagging,to give a longer running time, I could put them in Parallel but prefer to know I have a charged battery to use with an approx running time before it fails altogether. I have made a cover over the shaft coupling to prevent any cables coming into contact with it should they move, there is plenty of air space around this cover as well but the photo does not show it.Dave M the pond is weed free and the prop is the recommended one in the plans for the boat, as far as I am aware it is no larger dia. than the motor, but I will check that.As far as the weights I had to put lead in the front and mid section to get the boat down into the water as it was sitting on the hull and was not stable, I had some lead in the back as well as I used a spirit level when I was sorting it out in the bath, however when I first tried it in the pond the back end was too low in the water when it was going, so I took the heavier weight from the section just rear of the motor compartment and swapped it for the lighter weight just forward of the motor compartment, although this was better when tried again the stern was too low when it was moving so I removed the weights from the stern and as far as I could see it was just right, stationary the boat looked levelish but when moving on full throttle, the bow came up and had a nice bow wave with the stern down below the water level but with a (for want of the technical term) a hollow wave, when on a slower throttle it was fine and sailed nicely at all speed levels. What worries me is that the motor shown fitted in the boat was supposed to be the better motor than the photo of the one outside of the boat, would this benefit from a motor as to be honest I would not want to alter the top speed of the boat as it is just about right . just to let you all know I have a background knowledge of electrics so do know the difference between parallel and series voltages😊

7 years ago by RichardSReade

Forum

Aero Kit - Sea Queen

Hi Andy Welcome to the site. There are many posts re building and fitting out Sea Queens on the site. You can search and browse. The boats in Harbour section will alsos give yousi details of the motor/prop/battery set up. I have an original Aerokits version and in my 48" Sea Queen I use a brushless 42 size 850Kv motor of 700 watts and it is happy driving a Prop Shop prop of 42mm at 45 amp on full throttle. Power is from an 11.1v Lipo of at least 2200 mA but Nimhs would work, just not as fast and less duration.

7 years ago by Dave M

Forum

Help! What's this?

Before I restore and repaint this boat, I wonder if anyone can help me identify it. Picked it up yesterday at a boot sale from, I think, a German guy in his 30s, along with a Kyosho RC Car. The boat was covered in Bubu's Racing Team stickers and had a few Bartels GFK/CFK Technik of Oldenburg stickers. She is 18"/450mm, has a (Yokomo Keil?) DTM A-563 motor and a Hitec full mos fet sp-560 esc. Put in a new receiver and battery and she was up and running. She will be red and gold when repainted. Not much to look at but, probably, quite quick.

7 years ago by AllenA

Response

Red Cat hydroplane

Hi. The HK controller is an Aquastar 120Amp which has suffered all of the burn outs and never failed. SKU: 9052000008. The failed motors were all 2848SL 3900kv Brushless inrunner (WaterCooled) SKU:3900-2848SL. I have my doubts about the specifications as their watts and amps do not add up. I have a temperature sensor on the motor sending info back to the TX and usually after a full charge and a fast run it would get to 60°C, then I would cool it to 45°C before the next run it burnt out at 85°C when I wasn't paying attention. The new motor runs at about 45°C how ever hard it is pushed. Still using the 120A ESC. The new motor was in the HK sale and I don't think they do it now SKU:S2858-2630. it just happend that the water jacket for the failed unit fits it.

7 years ago by SimpleSailor

Media

Balsa Boat 1970's made to Model Boat plans.

Old boat of my fathers built from scratch in balsa wood, and fibre glassed inside. Use to run a small diesel engine, I took over it and initially put an Orbit 805 motor in then later a better spec model car motor 545/550 . Finally I swapped it for a 1.25cc glow engine and this video demonstrates the speed with the glow engine. Was almost too fast for the hull, tight turns caused it to nose dive, and plane/wobble badly on its side. Great fun and cheap to run.

7 years ago by Novagsi0

Forum

Richards 48'' Swordsman

Hi, another month on and things are still progressing. I have finished planking the deck and have started on the rubbing strake. I am using 3x5mm balsa for the strake and I will be staining it teak. I have bent the strip for the bow and stern, I soaked balsa in hot water for about half an hour. Whilst the strip was soaking i cut strips of masking tape and evanly spaced them around the bow and stern sections ready for the soggy balsa. Then working evenly side to side from the center point, I bent the strip and secured it in place using the pre-installed masking tape. Note work evenly from the center my first effort i worked from the center and concentrated on one side, when i went back to the otherside the strip snapped in the middle (the point of most stress) probably because the wood had Dryed and cooled by the time I went back to it. The strakes are currently relaxing to shape for a few days before I remove the tape.

7 years ago by rmwall107

Forum

46'' Fireboat - what engine(s)?

Hi Vapour I am going with a Hobbyking L5055C-700kv- 1600Watts, 100Amp ESC and a 2 blade CNC 52 mm 1.4 pitch prop. The ESC only goes to 4S, so I am thinking of ordering a 90A ESC which goes to 6S. At present it has a 3648-1450kv-1600Watt, 100Amp ESC with a 2 blade 40mm 1.4 pitch prop, but has not been in the water with this setup. As the boat had no gear in it at purchase and that's what I had in the spare bits box.

7 years ago by canabus

Response

SG&K 1920 Gentlemans Runabout Mk2

Here's mine I built as per plan about 4 years ago. Name: "Merlin" Specs NiMH (7.2v) 4 Amp/h MTronics Viper Marine 15A Constant Motor: High speed Low drain 545 Type: Brushed Drive: Direct Drive Props: Single Propellor Type: 2 Blade X Type Size: 35mm Built from a Traplet plan in 2013. All wood construction, 545 direct drive motor with 2 blade prop. 2x 3.7amp 7.2 volt NiMhd batteries and a Mtronics Viper Marine 15amp speed controller.

7 years ago by lhpen

Forum

Model Engineer 17th Jan 1952

I promised to share some articles and photos from the Model Engineer magazines I picked up recently but I've been distracted by the Meccano Dolphin 16 which on a whim decided to build from scratch. It's coming along nicely but I am certainly very rusty and the eyesight could be better. However, here's a Lady with a 2ft beam, Miss EEDEE. She is 5 ft long 2ft beam and 70lbs. In the early 50s she was claimed to be the first radio control boat to cross the channel. She was powered by a 4.5cc watercooled engine from Electronic Developments Surrey Ltd. I have left the adverts alongside it to show how far we have come in the last 60 odd years....... or have we?

7 years ago by AllenA

Forum

Battery problems

G/Day I have not got any idea about electronics. I have got a 47 inch Perkasa Patrol Boat running with a single Brush less Turnigy 3974-2200kv motor and a Turnigy 160A ESC running directly from a rechargeable sealed lead-acid battery RL1270(12v7.0Ah/20hr). My problem is when the motor is running at high reves it cuts out after a few minuets. Is this from low battery or wrong setup? All the help i can get to get my boat running smoothly would be much appreciated . thank you. Allan

7 years ago by Patto

Forum

Battery problems

BIG MISTAKE I brought a 5300mha -50c-14.8v-4s1p-78wh LiPo battery yesterday. Bloke in hobby shop checked my ESC which is a TURNIGY AQUASTAR Watercooled ESC 160A. and said that it could handle that size battery. Giving the boat a test run this morning the ESC erupted in a huge cloud of black smoke. Not happy Jan will be ringing the hobby shop in the morning. Allan

7 years ago by Patto

Forum

Battery problems

G/Day All Thanks for all of your advice. I have a 2 blade 40mm prop and the shaft is running free. i originally running a Johnson brushed motor with no problems with power except it and the esc i had got extremely hot. i could not find a brush motor so that is why I got the brush less motor. it is very hard to get model boat parts in Australia. Maybe it might be easier to put the old motor back in, i have now got a water pump so i maybe able to make a cooling system. Cheers Allan

7 years ago by Patto

Response

Jet Sprint Boat

No problem I need 4.5 hp and I can get that with a electric motor I am using the same jet motor that the NZ manufacturers of the real sprint jet use on their r c models they make I had a long chat with them and they are happy with the single jet Thanks for your interest in any case it is appreciated and we will all see how it turns out and hopefully performs Cheers Rod

7 years ago by Rod