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    Blog
    Painting the hull – Part 1 primer & anti fouling.
    There’s no putting it off any longer, I need to start painting the hull before I do any more on the boat so the hull was given a final rub down with a fine abrasive and then the deck and gunwales carefully masked off. I used some panel wipe to thoroughly de-grease all the surfaces and then put the hull in the ‘spray booth’ on my turntable and applied two coats of Halfords grey primer. I left this for a couple of days to dry and harden off before setting it on my bench. The next stage involves levelling the hull fore and aft and side to side so that the waterline can be established. Fortunately the well deck floor is meant to be perfectly level when the boat is afloat and at rest and this is the datum I used to level to using a couple of spirit levels. The rough waterline points were measured off the plan and transferred to the hull to be used as approximate starting points for the waterline. For my previous build I bought a self-levelling laser to indicate the waterline so this was brought out for the same purpose. The laser level was placed on another workbench a couple of metres away and gradually raised with packing pieces until the projected line agreed with the rough position marks I’d made on the hull and then finely adjusted until the line was correct and pencil marks made at intervals along the projected line. The process was repeated for the other side of the hull and then also marked across the stern, fortunately the stern line and bow markings joined up accurately confirming that the levelling was spot on. Good quality low tack masking tape was then applied all around the hull and the area above the line masked off with a couple of layers of newspaper. The exposed hull was then keyed with a fine Scotchbrite type pad and cleaned off with panel wipe before two coats of Halfords red oxide primer applied as the anti-fouling.
    4 months ago by robbob
    Media
    DS 30
    Took time out from my new build to test float the barge I am building for my push boat to give it a long awaited float test for leaks and to mark the waterline. First decent day this winter!
    5 months ago by Mariner85
    Forum
    Shroud for Model Air Boat
    Hello, Airboats are not something I have real experience with, but your one comment got my attention: SuperGlue, or CA, an abbreviation, as it is commonly referred to. It does not withstand constant exposure to water. it is not waterproof. Now there is likely to be a storm of comments against this, but this is based upon experience over 20 years. CA is great and I do use it for some applications on my boats. However if it's below the waterline make certain to adequately sealed or properly painted over it. This is a good rule for most glues that sit below the water, with the exception of truely waterproof glues like epoxy. Good luck with your projects. Cheers Joe
    5 months ago by Joe727
    Response
    PS Iona - misc fittings
    Thanks for the compliments! it's been a good project, just adding the final touches a couple of days ago. One bonus about paddle steamers is they don't usually take on water as the paddle shafts are above the
    water line
    👍
    5 months ago by Harvey Kitten
    Blog
    6 Volts of Course of Course!
    Captain's Log: The right battery for the job! I found a battery that volts and amp's are just right! The most important thing the right weight! The battery weigh's in at 3 lbs. 1 ounce. Which is just right for the Brooklyn! Give or take a once or two.... But, can be adjusted to trim the
    water line
    ! The battery is a 6 volt 8.5 amp battery. Which will power Brooklyn for 2.5 hours. Or 1.6 hours with her smoking unit on! Brooklyn will run on 5.2 amps with the smoker. Or 4.0 amps with out the smoker! Unfortunately you live and learn. I tried using the batteries from. Serenity, she's 12 volts 2.5 amps! This was no good, not enough power! Also the 12 batteries weigh too much! So, A 6 volt battery was the way to go! Next is replacing the motor and smoker! Am expecting the motor this morning! Will soon order the smoker! And again she will be completed. For a spring launching!👍
    6 months ago by figtree7nts
    Forum
    Fairmile D 1/24 Scale Build
    Hi biker, Depends on whether you want to build true scale model and build it 'right', or just a near scale 'Runabout'. Rowen has learned (with a little help form his friends 😉) to build it right which is extremely satisfying and the correct detail underwater truly compliments his superb detailing above the waterline. To me the two are inseparable. Seems to me that that is what Andy wants as well. I applaud him. About time we gave him some constructive answers - but first we need to know something about his boat:- Length, beam, probable max weight? If all you want is a near scale quickbuild fast runabout John there are plenty of ARTR/RTR options on the market. But then; that's just my opinion - and whadda I know!😁 Look forward to at least some pics / vids of your boat in action Biker. Cheers, Doug 😎
    6 months ago by RNinMunich
    Blog
    Weight Too Much!
    Captain's Log: After careful consideration. I have decided to use only one battery at a time! This being 6.5 lbs. is way too much weight. Her bow is too low to the waterline. She get's thrown off by the weight. So, one battery at a time will be used! Now, having lowered the volts. From 12 volts to 6 volts is a problem. See her main motor and smoker. Are 12 volts each! So, now I have to replace. The main motor and the smoker. To a 6 volt system! This is not so easy. If any of you are familiar. With Dumas and Harbor model products. You know this ain't cheap!😭 Luckily, I will be selling both parts. Together next month! As both parts are in new condition! I will then order a 6 volt main motor and Smoker! Oh, each battery will give me about 1.5 hours of run time! And that's not bad at all..... NOTE: I'm only losing $10.00 on the resale of her Motor and Smoker!
    6 months ago by figtree7nts
    Response
    Fitting the rubbing strakes.
    Hi All. I'm frantically trying to get the boat to a reasonable state of completion for showing at the London Model Engineer Exhibition next weekend. I've finished painting the hull, just need to apply the white
    water line
    and lacquer the hull with a satin finish. The pictures (taken today) show the current state so there's still a lot of detail to add to the decks and cabin. It will be definitely be displayed as 'work in progress'. Robbob.
    6 months ago by robbob
    Forum
    Paint for Thames River Police Boat.
    Can anyone confirm the correct colour for the hull of The Thames Police Boat above the waterline? I have seen various shades of blue on other models, some very light which doesn't look at all right, and some in black. The instructions state it should be a dark blue and I'd like to order a custom mixed RAL colour quite soon and I'm looking at RAL 5011 Steel Blue or possibly RAL 5004 Black Blue. Any advice appreciated. Robbob.
    6 months ago by robbob
    Blog
    1-35 Scale Schenllboot By TeeJay
    Hi all for the second blog report on the schnellboot I am going to go over the rudder a propeller shaft assembly in more detail. The first stage was to make the rudders which were made of brass ,and having taken note of what has been said about the increase in size needed for the kit by other members I have increased the size of the rudders by 50% so that they have more effect and hopefully the boat will be more agile .I fitted 3mm treaded rod on to the rudder and in a 4mm flanged tube to reinforce the brass rod. The second stage was to make and fit 5mm flanged tube in the location for the rudders in the boat, these were made to be above the
    water line
    and will be sealed in place to reduce the possibility of leaks. These were fitted to a rudder platform inside the boat which was fitted to the kit moulding for the rubbing strip that runs the length on the boat and secured by making resin blocks which were fitted with computer extension nuts. which were then superglue in place to secure the rudder platform. The rudders were then fitted in place and held in position with the tiller collars which were made from 8mm rod and fitted the tiller arms and locked in place with 3mm computer screws and ni-lock nuts, a connecting plate was then fitted to connect the three tillers together, I also fitted rubberised washers to seal the rudder tubes. The third stage was to make the propeller supports. The centre support was a direct copy of the kit part made of brass and fitted to the kit with a plate and screws (this plate and the rudder plate were made from galvanised steel) and will sealed with resin after the I test the boat for leaks. The port and starboard supports were made by taking the kit parts and cutting them in have along the joint line or mould seam this gave me a template ,which I used to make cross-section segments but I did alter the template by increasing the boss diameter to 10mm and extending the support legs so that the finished support could be fitted through the hull (the picture of these show the mk1 version where I forgot to allow for the 4mm prop shaft which has a 6mm tube) any way the boss of these segments were drilled out with a 7mm drill and a length of 7mm brass tube fitted through the boss to assemble the segments, all of which were coated in soldering flux at this stage of the assembly which were riveted at both ends to hold it all together during soldering, after soldering the supports were then filed to the size and shape to resemble the kit parts as close as possible and fitted to the hull using a superglue and talcum powder mix and then I cast resin around the extensions to secure the prop supports in place. The fourth stage is the propeller shaft housing for the centre propeller housing I place a brass rod in a plastic straw and place in position in hull and using resin I sealed the hull with the rod in place this gave me a pilot hole for the centre prop shaft after I removed the brass rod. For the port and starboard shafts I used the kit parts which had hole place when assembled, this when I reinforced the housings ,the centre housing I glue 2mm of plasticard on each side and for the port and starboard I made a brass tube shroud which covered the housings which left gaps between the kit part and the brass which was filled by casting resin in the gap this increased the diameter to 10 mm so that there were little chance of breaking throw with the drill and finished these off by fill-in the outside with body filler and sanded to shape and finish . I then drilled through the pilot hole in the housings using very long extended drills and a wheel brace ( if I had use a power drill the heat would have melted the plastic of the kit and may have caused problems) I drill the shaft housings out 6mm them filed them out with 6mm file so that I could insert a length of 6mm brass tube. After all this was done I fitted a flanged bush made from 7mm tube and 2mm brass plate turned to 11mm to the ends or the propeller shaft housings. And now it is time I must ask for some help could anyone advise me on the length of propeller shafts, I know I can use a 300mm shaft for the centre shaft, but port and starboard will have to be longer. and I also need advice on selecting the motors, I want to use 4mm prop shaft with 35mm propellers. Any opinions welcome.
    9 months ago by teejay
    Response
    Oh, NO Water Everywhere!
    Maybe through the oiler tube Ed? I put a length of silicon tube on mine to ensure that the opening is well above the waterline. Also makes oiling easier 😉 In your photo it looks like there is some liquid near the top of the oiler!? Seasons Greetings to you and 'Better Half', cheers, Doug 😎
    7 months ago by RNinMunich
    Blog
    Oh, NO Water Everywhere!
    Captain's Log: Ok, I like to float Tug Brooklyn! Last night I did this. I filled the tub with water. Then placed Tug Brooklyn. I left it alone for about half an hour. When I came back. I started looking at her. She looked different in some way. I hadn't realized she was taking on water. anyway I looked at her
    water line
    . And her
    water line
    was below the water! I then took her superstructure. Off of her when I looked inside. I was shocked to find. She had taken on more than 12 ounces of water! I then started to panic! I went and got my syringe. Which I had purchased just in case water ever got into her. And started pumping out all the water she had in her! I'm not sure where she's leaking from! Or why she is leaking! There's only one opening in the Hull. And that's where the shaft comes out of! Going to have to do another float test. to see where the water is coming in from! I'm glad I discovered this before next boating season!
    7 months ago by figtree7nts
    Forum
    fuse holder
    I had a look at my suppliers, and found this in Amazon(!). Any good? "DIGITEN waterproof in Line standard Blade Fuse Holder fuses+10A 10Amp kit car boat bike". Good luck with your testing!
    8 months ago by b111yboy71
    Forum
    Cleaning sails, toy yachts, etc....
    Useful to know about Vanish. it certainly worked on my Star yacht sails. Fortunately the sails on the Ailsa yacht are lovely anyway, just some new rigging cord required. I would say the sails were the same as bed sheets. I used some white spirit to clean the deck on the Ailsa. Most of the dirt being handling muck. Then I waxed it with 3M wax...twice. it's wonderful stuff which I bought for our historic narrowboat's new paintwork. it was a wooden boat and when I replaced the cabins and had painted them with Tra-mar Coatings hand made enamel paint, I waxed them with 3M's wax and they went another 3 winters before I sold the boat, with the rain still rolling off in beads. The Ailsa is now waiting for some spar varnish over the repair's creamish paint. I couldn't match it perfectly, but I didn't want to repaint the whole hull. All the repairs are under the waterline so it shouldn't show. The Star...I never heard of them using aluminium for masts. How would they have kept the rigging eyes in place? Martin
    8 months ago by Westquay
    Blog
    1-35 scale S100 schennllboot
    Hi all for the second blog report on the schenllboot I am going to go over the rudder an propeller shaft assembly in more detail. The first stage was to make the rudders which were made of brass ,and having taken note of what has been said about the increase in size needed for the kit by other members I have increased the size of the rudders by 50% so that they have more effect and hopefully the boat will be more agile .I fitted 3mm treaded rod on to the rudder and in a 4mm flanged tube to reinforce the brass rod. The second stage was to make and fit 5mm flanged tube in the location for the rudders in the boat , these were made to be above the
    water line
    and will be sealed in place to reduce the possibility of leaks. These were fitted to a rudder platform inside the boat which was fitted to the kit moulding for the rubbing strip that runs the length on the boat and secured by making resin blocks which were fitted with computer extension nuts .which were then superglue in place to secure the rudder platform. The rudders were then fitted in place and held in position with the tiller collars which were made from 8mm rod and fitted the tiller arms and locked in place with 3mm computer screws and ni-lock nuts, a connecting plate was then fitted to connect the three tillers together, I also fitted rubberised washers to seal the rudder tubes. The third stage was to make the propeller supports. The centre support was a direct copy of the kit part made of brass and fitted to the kit with a plate and screws (this plate and the rudder plate were made from galvanised steel)and will sealed with resin after the I test the boat for leaks. The port and starboard supports were made by taking the kit parts and cutting them in have along the joint line or mould seam this gave me a template ,which I used to make cross-section segments but I did alter the template by increasing the boss diameter to 10mm and extending the support legs so that the finished support could be fitted through the hull (the picture of these show the mk1 version where I forgot to allow for the 4mm prop shaft which has a 6mm tube) any way the boss of these segments were drilled out with a 7mm drill and a length of 7mm brass tube fitted through the boss to assemble the segments, all of which were coated in soldering flux at this stage of the assembly which were riveted at both ends to hold it all together during soldering, after soldering the supports were then filed to the size and shape to resemble the kit parts as close as possible and fitted to the hull using a superglue and talcum power mix and then I cast resin around the extensions to secure the prop supports in place. The forth stage is the propeller shaft housing for the centre propeller housing I place a brass rod in a plastic straw and place in position in hull and using resin I sealed the hull with the rod in place this gave me a pilot hole for the centre prop shaft after I removed the brass rod. For the port and starboard shafts I used the kit parts which had hole place when assembled, this when I reinforced the housings ,the centre housing I glue 2mm of plasticard on each side and for the port and starboard I made a brass tube shroud which covered the housings which left gaps between the kit part and the brass which was filled by casting resin in the gap this increased the diameter to 10 mm so that there were little chance of breaking throw with the drill and finished these off by fill-in the outside with body filler and sanded to shape and finish . I then drilled through the pilot hole in the housings using very long extended drills and a wheel brace ( if I had use a power drill the heat would have melted the plastic of the kit and may have caused problems) I drill the shaft housings out 6mm them filed them out with 6mm file so that I could insert a length of 6mm brass tube. After all this was done I fitted a flanged bush made from 7mm tube and 2mm brass plate turned to 11mm to the ends or the propeller shaft housings. And now it is time I have to ask for some help could any one advise me on the length of propeller shafts , I know I can use a 300mm shaft for the centre shaft but port and starboard will have to be longer . and I also need advice on selecting the motors , I want to use 4mm prop shaft with 35mm propellers. Any opinions welcome.
    1 year ago by teejay
    Response
    Spraying Again.......
    Hi Neville, Check out my Sea Scout 'Jessica' renovation blog for how to achieve good paint finish! 'Wet n dry' is the ONLY way to go. Right from the priming stage. it stops the 'riding' you describe and the generation of flying dust which is anathema to any paint or varnish finish, but you do have to clean and re-wet the paper and the object you are sanding from time to time!!! Any mistakes at that stage will carry through to the top coats and still be visible 😡 Don't quite understand how you created 'mouths'. I'm wondering if you sprayed too close and/or too heavy!? Your apparently exorbitant paint consumption seems to hint at this🤔 For the record; I started with 240 on the primer/filler for my Sea Scout and worked up through 400, 600, 1000, and 2000 and 3000 for the final top coats and deck varnish. All 'Wet', with a few drops of liquid soap added at the top coat stages, i.e. from the 1000 stage. At the end I polish with a mild cutting polish 'Anti hologram' they call it here, from the auto industry. Tedious I agree and a generous dollop of patience is required (the 'Secret ingredient' I have often mentioned here 😉 But when you see the result it warms the cockles and makes it all worthwhile.😊 Happy spraying, cheers, Doug 😎 BTW; for the blue on my Sea Scout hull I used a 400ml rattle can for several coats (more than three in the end) and there's still some left ! BTW2; For masking I use Tamiya tape for nice crisp edges. Fill in behind that with 'normal' fine masking tape and newspaper.
    9 months ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Your ideas on how to stabilize a flat-bottomed freighter.
    After adding the needed weights to bring this freighter down to a loaded ship
    water line
    , the model rocks n rolls. It needs either a keel or exterior stability fins. What is your experience? Please share with us.
    9 months ago by Ron
    Forum
    Painting
    Ah! I thought Fairey might prove the exception to the planking rule. Well, it'll look nice, that's for sure. Paint. I always use enamel and my local auto paint shop will make me 1/4 litre tins up, of HMG, which lasts a long time from a small spray gun. Failing that, Rustoleum do some lovely rattle cans in a range of colours that spray very well and are only just over a fiver a tin. One tin would do you if you're careful. I've just given my Darby One Design its second coat of blue after a rub down and I'm happy with that. Dries very quickly, but is a nice gloss. it is a bit thin, so be very careful how you spray. Better to do two coats than one thick one. But really, if you can get it, HMG is the best bar none. Worth hunting for. Paint, alas, just ain't cheap anymore. Would that we could get tins of Valspar or Japlac, eh? The proper original stuff. Plastikote was a good paint when it was an enamel, now it's acrylic water based muck. No coverage and reacts with itself, let alone owt else. I would be inclined, btw, to do that curved deck in veneer, so all your mistakes will be made before it goes on the boat. in which case, once the planks are made and fit bang on, go up the edges with a black marker pen. it will look like caulking when all is done. Good luck, Martin
    9 months ago by Westquay
    Response
    Cast keel bulb
    No mounting points yet. I thought I was pushing my luck trying to DIY mould 6.5Kg of lead without making things worse with fixings. Plan is that the fin will be between 12 and 30mm thick with a 10mm plywood core which I will set into the lead. Then an 8mm diameter carbon rod right up into the hull finishing above the waterline and two M6 stainless steel studs to hold the keel on. One of those studs will pass right through the lead. There will not be space for the second stud to do the same.
    9 months ago by steve-d
    Blog
    HMS BRAVE BORDERER
    The weather has quickly turned colder, giving an excuse to get back to this model. Stripped out much of the interior and the prop. shafts to replace the nylon propellers with brass. These items all needed removing for painting, so decided to paint the hull before reassembly and then moving onto the superstructure. Fortunately, examining similar naval vessels and several U Tube videos, confirmed the hull as light grey, the deck a darker one of the 50 shades of grey and the lower hull below the waterline black. Used thin Tamiya masking tape to define clean colour separations, followed by regular tape, masked the hull into colour sections and sprayed using “rattle” cans. After the colours applied a light overall Matt coat to subdue any shine. The results are satisfactory. Will now reassemble and move onto building the superstructure and the other fittings. Prior to the season closing decided to experiment with my new Flysky Tx/Rx package, shortly to be fitted to this model. This Tx has a servo limiting function, which was hoping could also be used to restrict ESC output. Would like to make the full speed motor response correspond to full Tx control position. Currently can over power the model; which lifts the stern, causing it to come off the plane and then dig the bow in. Was thinking that if full throttle could be set at around 90% forward control movement and 40% sternwards the model would retain adequate performance, but without being overpowered or very sensitive to control lever movement. As the Brave was not available, tried the idea on my Daman Stan 4207 model. This is brushed motor powered and a good performer. Obviously the settings for the Brave will be different, but at least could try to see if the idea would work – it did! This Tx function is easy to use and adjustments can be made whilst the model is on the water. Once the ideal settings are achieved they can be programmed and then retained in the Tx. Will try this on the Brave when back on the water next Spring.
    9 months ago by RHBaker
    Forum
    Empress of Canada 1961
    I am interested in getting in touch with anyone who has built a sailing model of "Empress of Britain" or "Empress of England" to Vic Smeed's plan. I'd like to know if they built to scale draft, and if the model was stable and sat at waterline depth. Roy
    10 months ago by Trillium
    Response
    BRAVE BORDERER
    Just put up another vid showing the speed at around 2/3 throttle which looks reasonably scale for 38 knots (bit hard to scale water movement as we all know!) and it doesn't squeal too much at this speed. Just been back through my old info on the ESCs and found I may be able to change a few things (forgot due to approaching dotage and so many projects on electric (18 planes as well converted from ic to electric) I was thinking with your high kv motors that if you can get away with smaller props or some the scale diam bit finer pitch props, that would allow the motors to rev how they should, but give you finer control. As I mentioned before, on 8v per motor they will spin at around 16-18000 rpm and won't like a big load (you've no doubt heard those delta wings scream) . My props are 28mm x 3 blade on a 2000kv motor and are spinning at around 12000 rpm (probably around 8000 rpm in the vid at 2/3 throttle) The general rule with brushless is the higher the kv the smaller the prop/pitch and vice versa planes or boats (would also apply to brushed) if you have an in line amp meter/batt checker you can check the amps drawn in the water at full power (have someone hold the boat) and see if you are under max A for the motor. You can then prop to suit if necessary. This is the only way to check for correct load and is an absolute must for aeroplanes. After a run, motors should be around cool to almost too hot to touch (60-70deg C) There are backplate water cooling units available for using out-runners in boats if necessary eg pic.
    10 months ago by jbkiwi
    Forum
    U46 Tin Clockwork Submarine
    Ahoy Mateys, U46, 7 inches long, 2 plate hull, screw cap tinplate clockwork diving submarine. The fin on this was made from an old brass light fitting. Its mental in the water and impossible to steer in a straight line but hilarious to watch. Smallest spring motor iv'e ever built and as usual made from the contents of the light green wheelie bin. cheers MacTin.
    10 months ago by mactin
    Blog
    HMS BRAVE BORDERER
    Adjusted the transom flaps and reprogrammed the ESCs to the softest start settings, retested. Until now, the test runs did not have the duration or stability to really examine what was happening. Using 3 S batteries acceleration is rapid and a is plane quickly achieved. However, as the acceleration continues and speed increases, the bow digs in. A cloud of spray then surrounds the model as the plane is lost. Brushless motors do not modulate as smoothly as brushed and adjusting power tends to be erratic or exaggerated. This is a scale model and the propeller shaft angles are per the plans. The thrust from the propeller has two components, horizontal and vertical. The horizontal propels the vessel forward. However, the vertical component forces the stern upwards and, correspondingly, the bow down. Have moved as much weight as possible towards the stern to counteract this, limited by maintaining the correct displacement and waterline. The easiest solution is to reduce motor power, decreasing both speed and the lifting component. Decided to retry the 2S batteries as they give reduced power. A plane is again achieved, but as the motor response is more docile, it can be controlled. if the speed gets too high the bow lowers, as before, but the motor output can be more easily adjusted. Spent a pleasant half hour or so with the vessel accelerating onto and off a nice, controllable plane. Much less spray and drama than with 3S and much more controllable. Have now decided to revise plans and use 2S rather than 3 batteries. A further advantage is the motor noise is muted and now sounds more like a gas turbine than a dental drill! Finally feeling comfortable with the model. Will thus shelve further building until the late fall when sailing in Canada concludes. Want to enjoy the rest of my fleet in the meantime! Will summarize my experiences with brushless motors in another blog shortly for the benefits of others contemplating their use. After restarting the model will resurrect periodic build blogs to advise progress.
    10 months ago by RHBaker
    Forum
    Exciters/transducers
    Is it right that you must place these Units above the waterline? Also is it worth thickening the boat hull, at point of contact, to improve sound? By the way, how do you make new 'Posts' always appear on the top of the list? I bet RN Munich will be on to the one! NPJ
    12 months ago by NPJ
    Blog
    Italeri P.T 109
    I bought an italeri PT109 kit in 2011. it took 4 months to build as I had other projects on at the time. I notices the high quality of the parts, especially the hull and the actual paint finish was very easy due to it being plastic and got the nearest colour match by using Humbrol spray acrylic of Grass Green with Regency Red acrylic for the waterline and below. Difficult decision was as to build as a triple screw to maintain scale or go for the single screw. I eventually went for the latter with just one rudder. Power was by a 480 brushed flight motor with a 30 amp esc which was a bit over the top as power was by a 2200mAh 2S Lipo but the esc was the only one they had in the shop. Getting the motor installed was very straight forward as it was done before the deck was fitted but I had to make the aft cabin detachable for access to taking the battery in and out and also lubricating the propshaft .The boat performed well at scale speed but got slightly out of shape when full power was applied, appearing more as a fast electric. Overall the boat was ideal for smaller ponds (providing it was not running flat out). The outcome was a well detailed model that appeared like the real thing on the water but I would not recommend sailing it in rough conditions.. Boaty😁
    10 months ago by boaty
    Blog
    she sails!
    I was hoping to get the Wavney on the water yesterday, but the weather gods put paid to that! Anyway, today was the day, so after adding almost 2kg of lead ballast fore and aft to get her on the waterline, it was off to Needham Lakes near Stowmarket, Suffolk. The initial sailing report is that she looks fantastic on the water despite it being a little choppy in the wind. The motors, ESC's performed perfectly, steering needs no adjusting and and at full tilt looked scale with a really nice bow wave. After 20 minutes of sailing which only dropped the 3S lipo down my 30%, all was well apart from a tiny little bit of water ingress at the back near the rudders. I can only put this down to water ingress from high speed passes as the bow wave created a little puddle of water on the rear deck. I know the hull is watertight as she was sat in the hot tub for an hour this morning and was as dry as bone following that. Will have to look at sealing the removable rear cabin as I think thats where the water got in?
    11 months ago by Skydive130
    Blog
    Fairey Hunsman renovation part 2
    The boat was free but I gave a small donation to the club,(Darlington & District Model Boat Club). Started by removing all hardware, motor mounts, prop shaft, rudder, water-scoops and outlets. Next fill the holes I have made, remove some excess wood. roughly sand down hull. Foam bow area, and glue crack in deck. Find a lot of damage to the fibreglass hull, large chips out of the gel coat and associated stress fractures, and other spider web cracks. Drimmel all crack lines and open up chips and dents, then fill with a filler. an experimental mix of P38 and Araldite, hope it works. Start planning drive options I have a number of items that I have brought and not used that will be put in this boat, otherwise they may never find a home. last picture shows drive option to use up components.
    11 months ago by CB90
    Blog
    Complete!
    So, having had a few days off during the week when "The Boss" has been at work has given me enough hours to finish The Waveney off! Its been a hard week of making the small bits n bobs from scratch using a combination of balsa, carbon rod, brass rod, plastic tube, plastic sheet etc to make the radar array, antenna mast, extra cockpit details ect. The deck winch was made from large Servo output discs! The RNLI flag printed off Google! This has been followed by alot of detail painting and laquering. Anyway, I think I have just about exhausted as much detail as can be had at this scale and and happy to call completion! Only job to do now is get it in the Hot Tub and add the 2 Kg of ballast to get her on the waterline. On water photos and video to follow in the last update on this thread! as for next projects? I have the Aeronaut Pilot boat sat in the pile and the Fairy huntress 23 plan and wood pack on route from Sarik Hobbies!
    11 months ago by Skydive130
    Response
    Vickers Vedette 1/96 scale
    Many thanks for your kind words, I've not sailed her yet, only test tank and had to up the
    water line
    a little bit for more stability, I also scaled up the plans to true 1/96 as the plan is around 1/100, the 1/96 fittings I bought from fleetscale were out of scale to the plan, and using the 1.1
    water line
    length noted in the magazine article.
    11 months ago by f4u7
    Response
    HMS Hood
    Thanks Ron. I have tried to be most particular with scale speed and waterline. I used 1.2kg of ballast carefully laid out whilst hull was floating in the bath. Once in place I secured it with expanding foam.
    11 months ago by cormorant
    Forum
    Leaking Boat!
    Visitors have set off late to avoid traffic so only now having to close down.......... I have had a quick look at the boat and there are a fair few holes inside the structure to block up if using air pressure. To strip and paint up to the current waterline would be 'doable' for me and only need a red lead type finish and then seal. Not done that sought of think before but now on the list of possibles. Certainly not going to be on the water for the Colwyn Bay Venetian Night at the end of the month! Such is life. NPJ
    11 months ago by NPJ
    Forum
    Leaking Boat!
    Hi Neville, Some intriguing suggestions here 😉 Good luck with the bicycle pump 😁 To be brutally frank! There are no short cuts to leak proofing an old wooden hull properly🤔 1 internal deck / xyz mounting notwithstanding, if there's something wrong with the hull I want to know it so I can fix it - for good! if the probable source of the leak is hidden by some internal deck or mounting for xyz it has to come out! 2 To be honest, looking closely at your pics of the hull underside it's obvious she has had a few knocks. I would want to sand back, seal and repaint at least the red underside. Having so cleaned the hull off I would closely inspect all joints around the keel and chines and look for signs of previous water intrusion and soaking into to keel especially - potential delamination / capillary action through the keel or joints. When the hull is fully dried out and sanded back I would seal it with a couple of coats of Ezekote; the first coat you can thin with a little warm water so that it soaks into the wood better. Don't overdo it, about 10-20% water is enough. Second coat pure resin. if it looks 'patchy' give it another coat of pure resin. Dries so fast all this doesn't take long. Had to do all this on my fish cutter hull, Gina2 - see Blog! Was a sieve to begin with, afterwards she passed her ballast test with flying colours😊 See also my Sea Scout Jessica Blog. After that repeat your bath test, with ballasting to waterline, and KEEP AN EYE ON IT so you can see where any watter creeps in from!😉 If you take a short cut now you may well have to do it again (properly) some time😁 cheers, Doug 😎
    11 months ago by RNinMunich
    Response
    Range Safety Launch?
    Post 2 Range Launch? The bath test has shown up a leak……………….. Have not tried to find where yet but it is hopefully in that small bay as it did not flow over the rib section. Strange I had not thought leaks to be much of a possibility in a boat! Wishful thinking again. Anyway it has put work back a bit. You will notice that the bath water was ‘used’ condition. I was not allowed to waste water due to the shortage so had to use the bath with Radox and herbal Oils in it. I trust it does not affect the paintwork…………… Any opinions on Leak Checking? I did check how it ‘sat’, and the waterline at its current weight. There is something in those images that RN Munich will pick up on! Have received some of the parts………….just like Christmas for me. ( I was a spoilt only child). Two issues strike me. a. It may be of interest if I give sources of the parts b. I think I have a problem with ‘scale’………….. Currently the purchases fall into two groups, electrical and deck fittings. The electrics are not posing a problem yet, but the size of deck fittings certainly is! Taking the larger ‘electricals’ first, I have gone for pre built units. Someone with more ability could build the units themselves. Kits are available. Also far fewer units could be used to start with and added later if needed. As a result of my previous, though small, experience with the Richardson Tug I used Action Electronics and Component Shop in Bangor, Wales for almost all of the electrical bits. They are helpful and efficient with good quality products. I am still using Mtroniks DigiSound for the sound unit, but Action Electronics now makes one as well. I have used a new source for the transducers/exciters. I have previously used Dayton Audio, sourced through SoundandVision Netherlands and costing around £35.00 for a pair of TT25’s plus mail. This time I used Mr RC for similar item, made by them for about £53.00 the pair mail free. They too came from the Netherlands! Not tried yet, but have noted that the Dayton Audio ones had a foam ring on the face which was self adhesive and easy to place. Mr RC require Gluing in place. Going to look for the leak. Next post should be on the electronics which I hope will have arrived by then. BTW, The 46 Firefloat Mk2 blogg by ‘Elsrickle and Fire Boat (Crash Tender) on our site are great sources of information. NPJ.
    11 months ago by NPJ
    Blog
    Seat Trials and mods.
    It’s been a while since the boat had it’s maiden voyage on the lake at St. Albans and I’m pleased to report that it looks really good in the water and goes like stink if you open up the throttle. Sadly I still don’t have any decent video of the boat yet as I can’t film and drive the thing at the same time, but I do have some static wide shots from my GoPro. When I do the video I’ll ask a cameraman mate to do the honours, maybe I’ll put the GoPro on the bow and then the stern to get some low action shots…the storyboard is already building in my head!! These early runs were great as they showed up some minor problems that needed attending to. I found that it needed ballasting slightly as it was not sitting on the waterline evenly from side to side so I flattened out some old lead water pipe and cut it into small sections so that I could add ballast incrementally. I did this in the ‘domestic test tank’ and once I was happy the lead pieces were fixed in place inside the hull with some super strong double sided tape. The ESC needed a little programming adjustment because I had forgotten to set the low battery level point to ‘off’ as I am using NiMh batteries and not LiPo’s , that was the cause of the short initial run time on the first outing…..DOH !! The batteries are now held in place by Velcro straps on some bearers that I added, otherwise a battery change involved cutting cable ties and replacing them at the lakeside…not very practical. The volt/amp/watt meter is also now on a proper bracket so that the display is more readable. I have also changed the charging connection from the nasty Tamiya connector to a nice little panel mount XT 60 connector that HobbyKing sell, it comes with a handy blanking plug that I have drilled for a retaining cord. I have also finally got around to upgrading the firmware on my Turnigy i6 radio to the 10 channel version so that I can assign the lighting to the switches properly and have the rotation of the searchlight on one of the two rotary knobs. I can use the old 6 channel RX in the new boat….blog coming soon.
    11 months ago by robbob
    Response
    Range Safety Launch?
    Thanks both very much. All good stuff building up and I and keeping a log of it. I have the boat in the bath at the moment to see what the waterline is now and the balance. will take images later. Also some of the parts ordered have arrived..................... I feel 'scale' is going to be an issue for me. Some of the 1/16th look better than the 1/12th and 1/24 is in with a change for some bits! Must be doing it wrong. NPJ
    11 months ago by NPJ
    Blog
    hull
    well thats 3 coats of dark green below
    water line
    and 3 coats gloss white above phots to follow
    12 months ago by jacko
    Forum
    Exciters/transducers
    Hi Neville, where did I get Neil from?😲 Sorry can't help with balance point cos I don't know the boat. All I do is trim out in the 'Domestic Test Tank' for best balance along the waterline. Cheers, Doug 😎 PS I forgot the oilers😲 I only bother to fit them in fast boats with high revving brushless, like I did with my Sea Scout renovation, see 'Jessica' blog. For scale 'plodders' I don't usually bother. Just pull the shaft now n again and use a plastic syringe to inject some oil or Teflon grease.
    12 months ago by RNinMunich
    Response
    Emerald - ''Round the Word'' ocean racing yacht.
    Auto Bailout Modification. 1. I drilled small holes in the lower corners of the cockpit wells, opposite each other. These were then connected together with some small brass tube. This was to allow the water to flow from the front cockpit to the rear cockpit. (See pictures 1 and 2). 2. Two more holes were drilled in the rear cockpit, in the outer corners further aft. these were fitted with brass tube stubs. These were to take the plastic tube, which runs to the nozzles fitted into the hull (see picture 3 and 4). 3. To ensure the water would not flow into the boat, while stationary, the tubes were run through small eyelets on the under side of the deck(see picture 5). 4. Small holes were drilled in the hull and brass tubes were cut and bent, so that they would pass down through the hole in the hull, and lay flush against the hull, with the opening facing aft(see picture 6 and 9). 5. On the outer hull, the tube is built up, and covered in a cone shape, so the tube opening is the widest part of the cone and flush( see picture 7 & 8). 6. When the tubes are fitted to the stubs on the aft cockpit, and the cockpit secured in the yacht, the bale out is complete. Principle: While the boat is still and on an even keel, the cockpit floor is above the waterline, the tubes raise up to the deck level which prevents the water from flowing up and into the yacht. When the yacht starts to move under sail, the water flowing over the outlet nozzle is forced out by the cone, and creates a small vacuum at the nozzle opening, which draws any water in the cockpit through the tube and out through the nozzle. During a gust or strong winds, the yacht will heel over more. This will bring all the cockpit water to the lower side bailout tube, and be drawn out by the vacuum. When the yacht slows, and becomes even keeled, the cockpit will have been emptied. During heavy gusts, I found that the yacht will heel excessively, and if the waves are high enough, the cockpit will take some water over the deck. This is why I fitted the bailout device. So after a long sail in heavy weather, a long cruise back to shore on a broad reach and more even keel, will ensure the cockpit is dry. Happy Cruising
    12 months ago by East-RN
    Forum
    Exciters/transducers
    Hi Neil, am I getting too predictable!? 😲 Transducers; yes, above the waterline as much as possible, unless you want to stick your ears underwater to hear it! Thickening the hull might just improve the bass and dampen the treble by shifting the resonant frequency of the hull down a bit. 'New Posts'; just hit the 'Refresh' button of your browser. Ciao, Doug 😎
    12 months ago by RNinMunich
    Blog
    Emerald - ''Round the Word'' ocean racing yacht.
    Purchased new in kit form, from Robbe. 1998. Specifications:- Overall length: 1380mm. Overall beam: 360 mm. Draught: 300 mm. Mast height: 1800 mm. Overall height: 2200 mm. Standard sail area: 80 square dm. Sail area with Genoa: 94 square dm. Total displacement: 12 kg. Ballast: 8 kg. Scale: 1:10 Control Robbe Futaba F14 Marine transmitter / receiver. Channel 1 - Rudder servo. Channel 2 - Spare. Channel 3 - Genoa sail servo. Genoa switch module - fitted between the stick potentiometer and the transmitter channel 3 Socket. (Reverses the Genoa sail servo for Port or Starboard tack.) Channel 4 - Main sail servo. Channel 5 - Auxiliary 3 position switch - up position. Channel 6 - Auxiliary 3 position switch - down position. Receiver channel 5 - Mono Memory relay module. To drive the Blister motor out, to raise the Genoa Sail Clew. Receiver channel 6 - Mono Memory relay module. To drive the Blister motor in, to tighten the Genoa Sail Clew. Recently recovered from the back of the shed, where it has been in hibernation. Now I am retired and have some free time, it is under a review and refurbishment. New paint on the deck and upper hull (above the waterline). Solid state relay modules added, to replace the micro switches, operated from a cam on a servo (replacing analogue channel 2 with on/off channels 5 and 6). Pictures show the sea trials after the 10 year hibination. The Genoa Module had failed in the carbon potentiometers. No replacement available, so found a local electronics repairers, who changed the potentiometers for £10.00. The carrying cradle was designed to hold the sails, and secure the yacht while rigging at the waters edge. Also acts as a dry dock, while working inside the hull. When the repaired module is fitted, and the Genoa sail is operational, I will post detailed video of the Genoa sail winch and Blister motor and their operation while sailing. Genoa Sail Pictures added.
    12 months ago by East-RN
    Forum
    Spektrum, new, useless...
    you don't have to join a club . BMFA (British model flying association) will take none club members, you join as a country member. You don't actually have to take the proficiency test, but most clubs insist on it. Not only does it demonstrate a basic understanding, and basic competency of flight, electric, ic, petrol or free flight, its also an understanding of caa rules and safety. There is also the LMA (Large model association) which also carries public liability insurance. Flying without insurance just isn't worth the risk, imagine, on a nice hillside, nobody around, up on a thermal, and the tx fails, the soarer comes down, (anywhere as there is now no control) and hits an animal, or worse, a walker, would the £34 for a full year public liability insurance still seem expensive when you are hauled in court facing prosecution and possible imprisonment? Same with an rc boat, particularly a fast one, receiver packs in, boat is out of control, and little jonny has his hands in the water as it hits the bank, still don't think insurance is worthwhile? I bet a lot of people insure their mobile phone for more than £34 a year, by the way, Im sure BMFA insurance also covers other rc disciplines 👍
    12 months ago by pmdevlin
    Response
    Five windows left!
    Tamiya tape is great stuff.Good job.I have used it for taping off
    water line
    s and anything else that needed it.Are you also doing a little weathering as you go along.I noticed some colouring on the bottom structure.
    12 months ago by Donnieboy
    Blog
    Rebuild Flower Class Corvette
    Realigned motor to shaft painted hull add waterline and ballast and K40 runs well on 7.2 to 12v A nice model to have a good size and attractive on window sill.
    12 months ago by CB90
    Forum
    Crash Tender davit info...
    I have done some more digging and I hope this confirms the colour scheme for the boat. please see the reply I received from:- Donald Smith RAF MARINE CRAFT HiSTORIAN Hello, Colour scheme for the above boat is as follows. Black topsides, red oxide anti-fouled bottom separated by a 2in white waterline. All decks dark grey anti-slip deck paint, cabin sides light grey, cabin roofs white anti-slip deck paint. Mast-white, monitors red, crash ladder and davit silver/aluminium. An RAF roundel is centred 5ft 4in back from stem and 2ft 1.5in above mean waterline. The centre red disc 4in Dia., middle white circle 8in Dia., and the outer blue circle 12in Dia. The bottom of the white bow numbers should be 2ft 7in above mean waterline. They are 9in high by 6in wide with a 1.5in stroke width and a 2in separation between each number. The forward end of numbers 3 or 4 on the starboard side is 12in back from the outside of the roundel (Port side similar). The main FIRE letters are 2ft 6in high by 2ft wide with a stroke width of 6in and a separation of 6in between letters. The base of the letters is 7.5in above mean waterline. Transom numbers are 10in high by 8in wide and a stroke width of 1.5in and a separation on 2in. Base of numbers to be 1ft 5in above mean waterline. Draft marks are 3in high with a 0.5in stroke. I hope this meets with your requirements. Yours faithfully Donald Smith RAF MARINE CRAFT HiSTORIAN.
    1 year ago by mturpin013
    Forum
    After fibreglass and primer coat
    Hi Ron, mark the 'real' waterline, the LWL (Load Waterline) as on your plan. Then load the boat (in the domestic Test Tank😉) down to that line then you know what she can carry, including any missing deck and superstructure of course! See test I just did for my fish cutter 'Gina 2'. Cheers, Doug 😎 PS: seal and prime the hull when you wish, I do final finishing / polishing when all major internal works are done, and especially after prop shaft tubes and rudder stock are fitted and 'fettled in'. Cheers, Doug 😎 PS Applies just as well to renovations and new builds! BUT more power to your elbow for scratch building 👍
    1 year ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    After fibreglass and primer coat
    So, the hull has been fibreglassed, and several coats of primer applied. What next? Mark the
    water line
    as seen on the PDF and photographs? OR Place model in water, load up with approximately the weight of servos, batteries, and other building materials? Paint exterior hull or wait till interior servos are mounted? Scratch building questions...
    1 year ago by Ron
    Response
    Gina 2: A Messy Business - Hull Restoration
    Couldn't wait! (curiosity killed the cat!) although it IS now 'tomorrow' here! Load test results: Taycol motor 235gm, lead ballast 965gm, total 1.2Kgm, and still plenty of free board to the projected waterline 😊 An' she ain't sunk yet! 😁😁 so shouldn't have any problems fitting her out, at least not what weight concerns. Space is another question 😲 'Nothing is impossible' so they say 😉 (Please don't mention Titanic😲) Tomorrow (or later today🤔) is another day or what? 😉 Cheers, Doug 😎
    1 year ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    What do you do when...
    I do think the rescue dinghy is the best idea, but of course that is a club thing, organisationally and financially. I guess the OP wants to assure himself he can rescue his own boat with something suitable when it's only him on the water. Fair enough. A tug is a nice idea IF you can get a tow line aboard the stricken vessel, so I suppose the all embracing lobster claw style has potential. A floating Brabham BT 34 comes to mind. Cheers, Martin
    1 year ago by Westquay
    Forum
    Wherry hull in GRP
    Hi Dave, as Arron is the name on the facebook chat heading I assumed, reasonably, that he is the one to talk to. It's perfectly possible to see faults in a product without actually having it in one's hand. I can see that the light reflections down the side show the sides to be not fairly curved. Years in the car design/prototyping game have ensured that (I, too, am a tool/patternmaker of many years experience, from 1/500th city models to full size Bugatti design models). I have a good eye and both are telling me that hull in the picture I was sent isn't top drawer. The top edge of the hull is very woolly, not smoothly trimmed, but the main objection is that it's not clinker and that is a major problem for a wherry, considering only Albion was carvel. With a clinker model we could have a selection of different craft. With carvel, every model would be Albion, a little tedious at the pondside, I'm sure you would agree. Perhaps you could produce a pattern by gluing planks on to the basic GRP structure? Then re-mould. To counter the balance of such a big sail in a blow you will also need a fin keel, but that's down to the builder really, though your experiments with waterline would be useful for buyers of the hull as to weights required, etc. I don't wish to pee on your bonfire, but with a history of so many very good (and obviously so) GRP hulls on the market, we have come to expect a bang-on quality from the word go. Of course, any company new or old, who are prepared to listen to criticism and act on it are more than welcomed. Perhaps some different photos of the hull would satisfy us as to its shape and moulding quality? If it were a lot better than that one photo shows, I would be prepared to buy one still and then glue suitable planks to it to get my clinker model if that proves possible. I can't really say fairer than that. Cheers, Martin
    1 year ago by Westquay


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