Forum

Smoke generator

Have just made a prototype of a fan forced smoker which seems to be working well (despite breaking the heater coil by moving it while hot, - had it apart, broke wire, screw and washer repair, not quite as hot) I bought a couple of Heng Long smokers (for R/C tanks or cars) to play with, for $10 NZ each(or 5.3 Euros to you Northerners give or take a yen) from Bangood and just bought another from Ebay. There seem to be 2 different models, as one has a long coil with a lamp wick draped over it, which is sitting in the oil reservoir, the other has a small coil inside a piece of heat resistant woven tubing (as you might find insulating toaster/heater wiring etc) which acts as a wick and that also sits in cotton wool in the reservoir, (this seems to be the better of the two) Tip - don't fill the tank right up, only enough to soak the cotton, element should be just out of the oil. The wick loads the element. The better model seems to have a black top to the tank (also maybe either brown or black tank) and the other has a brown top and dirty brown tank. As with most of this stuff you won't know till you get it what it's going to be. What I did was remove the tank and cut off the pump tube just in front of the screw lugs (see black line in photo) then fitted the tank, and a 40x40x10 5v ESC fan (voltage controlled by a UBEC set to 5v on the jumpers) into a plastic electronics utility box from Jaycar (our local electronics and hobby store). I made up a double JST lead for the 2s 1800Mah Lipo and fired it up (using baby oil). it's pretty much silent and smokes well once it gets warmed up, ( starts smoking in about 5 seconds) You could control it (on/off volume) by either a remote on/off switch or perhaps a small cheap 10A brushed ESC. I would leave the fan running and control the element to avoid burning the element. The original pump tank inlet hole seems ok as is (approx 1.5mm) but you could enlarge it very slightly to get a better flow if you could find a better oil. At the electronics store they have proper smoke machine oil for $20 NZ per litre so I may have a look at that. The reason I went for the fan idea was that I found in std pump form, if I immersed a tube from the tank in water, it sucked water back into the tank. I was hoping it would pump smoke out of my HSL exhausts at water level alongside the cooling water but it would need a very light non return valve to do this. The fan seems to pump the smoke through 2mm ID silicone tube ok, so tubing of similar ID to the OD of the tank outlets should work well. These pumps in original form work pretty well for the price, and are cheap enough to keep a few for spare elements, the only thing is they are a bit noisy but in an 'engine sounding' way, (might add to the effect on a tug or work-boat though) What you have left after this mod is a very handy little geared motor with an eccentric output wheel which could be used for winches, radar and whirly bits of any description (see pic of motor leftover and original) To avoid burnout, these should be run on no more than a 2s (around 7.5v-(suggest 8v max with fan running) The other tank is going to work a lot better than this one but I'm not making a tug, just want a bit of exhaust smoke on start-up etc to go with the 2 sound units. Very cheap to make (around $25 NZ with pump, box, fan and UBEC all through Ebay, Aliexpress and Bangood (and local electronics store) if you wanted to run an ESC to control the smoke and you have no channels left to control it proportionally, you can always try using a second receiver bound to your TX, (if your TX will allow it,) power it and a brushed ESC (wired to the element) as normal and use the throttle channel to plug in your smoke control. This should work if you want more smoke as you accelerate or if you are using only 1 stick on a 2 stick TX you could use your 'elevator' stick pushed up (or a toggle switch if available) to start/stop the smoke (through the brushed ESC setup) . This setup weighs 100g (10g more than std) The quest for lots of smoke continues Will try to upload vid later and update progress.

5 years ago by jbkiwi

Blog

Hum, Now What!

Captain's Log: Continued! I have found where the leak is coming from! It's coming from above the shaft as it exits the hull! I'm not sure why it's leaking. The area is tricky to get to. As it's deep in the hull! An hard to get to. Since the hull is made of plastic. Am thinking of making a flange plate! And gluing it to the aft end of the hull On the outside of the hull! But, of course need to see where the leak. Is coming from the outside...…. I have already looked into getting a . Also a water detection circuit to activate the pump!

5 years ago by figtree7nts

Blog

Oh, NO Water Everywhere!

Captain's Log: Ok, I like to float Tug Brooklyn! Last night I did this. I filled the tub with water. Then placed Tug Brooklyn. I left it alone for about half an hour. When I came back. I started looking at her. She looked different in some way. I hadn't realized she was taking on water. anyway I looked at her water line. And her water line was below the water! I then took her superstructure. Off of her when I looked inside. I was shocked to find. She had taken on more than 12 ounces of water! I then started to panic! I went and got my syringe. Which I had purchased just in case water ever got into her. And started pumping out all the water she had in her! I'm not sure where she's leaking from! Or why she is leaking! There's only one opening in the Hull. And that's where the shaft comes out of! Going to have to do another float test. to see where the water is coming in from! I'm glad I discovered this before next boating season!

5 years ago by figtree7nts

Forum

steam

Hi Gary yes 1946 Nov. but young at heart. Rick

5 years ago by Newby7

Forum

steam

I'm searching for a mechanical steam are there manufacturer or shops that make or show these item's . Rick

5 years ago by Newby7

Forum

steam

Good Morning Rick, well it is here in the U/K. out of curiosity, I had a look at your profile as I imagined you were young and just starting off with steam, at least I got the second bit right and discovered you were of 1947 vintage, easy to figure out as I am from 1946. That was a bit of a shock to the system, anyway I thought I would share with you the fact the TVR steam engines are manufactured in the US of A, across the border by Graham industries, almost on your door-step so to speak. Regards, Gary.

5 years ago by GaryLC

Forum

steam

Thanks Gary will look at it in the morning . Rick

5 years ago by Newby7

Forum

steam

Thanks Gary I will look at the steam engine. Rick

5 years ago by Newby7

Forum

steam

Hi Rick, if you google TVR 1ABB steam engine, you will find a really neat and very good value for money steam engine. I'm afraid this is not cheap and around the £250 mark, mind it does have ball race bearings on the crankshaft. This comes as a kit of parts and you have to build it from scratch. when you have completed this task you will have a really good knowledge of exactly how a double acting slide valve engine works while putting this together, you can save up for a boiler to go with it, the instructions for building are very good almost idiot proof they must be as I have built several. Beautiful engine and powerful it will easily power a hull of one-meter length. Something to think about and Christmas is coming.

5 years ago by GaryLC

Forum

steam

Thanks Gary for the picture I only hope when I get the steam plant I understand enough to have a plumbers nightmare. Rick

5 years ago by Newby7

Forum

steam

Hi Rick, I thought you might be interested in this, it looks a bit like a plumbers nightmare, but despite that, a beautiful engine a twin cylinder TVR / USA slide valve 1/2" bore, and incredibly efficient runs on only 30 PSI steam pressure. The boiler is 3 1/2" x 6" and will run for almost 30 minutes with no , carrying water adds a lot more weight.

5 years ago by GaryLC

Forum

steam

I like that idea thanks Gary

5 years ago by Newby7

Forum

steam

You don't need to buy a water tank, simply build one into your hull using plywood and fibre-glass, the favourite is the sharp end simply fit a wooden bulk-head and cover it in fibre-glass.

5 years ago by GaryLC

Forum

steam

sent you a photo of a mechanical boiler feed pump connected to an oscillating V4 engine. get on eBay and type in Microcosm steam engines. if you use a decent size boiler for your steam engine you should get 20 to 30 minutes run-time. Let me know how you get on. Regards.

5 years ago by GaryLC

Forum

steam

Thanks Gary I have looked at their site and yes they have a pump I'm looking at I e-mailed them to find out if they do boiler water tank . Rick

5 years ago by Newby7

Forum

steam

I would suggest you go on to eBay, and then type in Microcosm Steam engines in the search window,this will take you to a Chinese Company who make numerous steam engines, at very reasonable prices plus lubricators and mechanical s for various engines. Let me know how you get on. I willpost youa photo of an engine with a pump fitted, one of Microcosm's engines, they do boilers as well.

5 years ago by GaryLC

Directory

(Other) Vosper

I always liked the sound of a fourstroke engine so I thought I would replace the brushless motor in this boat with an aircraft Os 40fs which I converted with a water cooling jacket that I turned up on my lathe. I also made a reverse gearbox with a clutch, the gearbox is operated by a servo and works well, I also fitted a so could still cool the engine while ticking over stationary, boat has been weathered and is fitted with lights and a searchlight that swivels around operated by another servo, there is also a cooling fan above the engine just to help keep things cool. (Motor: Os 40 fourstroke) (10/10)

6 years ago by Biscuit

Response

BRAVE BORDERER - BRUSHLESS SUMMARY

Thank you! Found this pump in Ali express. Here's the link if anyone needs: Waterproof Ultra-quiet 4.2W 240L/H Micro Brushless DC 12V Car Submersible Fountain Aquarium Circulating https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/cVs7aajO

6 years ago by Sakibian

Media

ASR 64ft R/C VID 2

Boat is Scratch built 36" British Power Boat 64ft High Speed ASR Launch which belonged to the RNZAF. The launch was one of the 22 built and was shipped to NZ in 1940. it was the only one of its type in the Southern Hemisphere. Model has twin motors, ESCs, sound units etc. Has remotely switched for water cooled brushless 2000kv in runner motors and remotely switched lighting. Uses 2x 2200mah 2s LiPos for drive and 1 1800mah LiPo for the pump (also a separate battery for the LED lights. Boat is built with strip planked balsa on ply frame and fiber glassed. Deck is ply, wheelhouse is varnished balsa. The colour is as it was for most of its time in the RNZAF . Took about 5 years on and off to build and finished it last year. (please ignore the time date - can't get rid of it .

6 years ago by jbkiwi

Media

Clyde Puffer

At Illfracombe pond last week . Have made an automatic feed water system for my coal fired Puffer and went to the pond to try it out. I think it needs bigger capacity pump as there was very little water in the boiler after 3/4 hour running. Gordons hydro is beating me up as usual !!! Les Breame

6 years ago by lesliebreame

Response

Clyde Puffer

Nice idea, filling the boiler. Can't wait to see it in action!

6 years ago by figtree7nts

Media

Clyde Puffer

Clyde Puffer project showing new water filling pump and electronic level control as yet untested !! Fingers crossed !!

6 years ago by lesliebreame

Forum

Smoker / Light Contoller

Afternoon All, Really please as finished off the smoker/light controller i've been working on. it works with any smoker that has a fan. theres three version avaible, but all versions have the same light functions, one switch - on /off (can change to a proportional to work with a ) Three position Swich, controlls two light circuts or anything. Oil heater, will turn the fan and heater on only when required. saves on Battery and to replicate a diessel engine. Water vapor system, able to turn off/on the power to the system remotely, Diesel engine, will power the fan 100% and the start and the slow the fan down till model is just about to move off. Steam Engine - Fan at idle is about 20% so always push the smoke up but then it will encrease with throttle input. the best thing i think is that any thing can be changed via the arduino. Will be make a few so if any one interest in one, please PM me. this is one i've just made for a friend that use the Oil heater https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JDLp5bACejc&feature=youtu.be and mine using the water vapor systemhttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pj2pICSLHcE Thanks

6 years ago by timgarrod

Forum

Controls problem

Thank you for your replies! Low battery is not impossible; but it powers the motors fine direct, receiver lights come on, ESC lights come on, and the phone connects to the receiver fine via WiFi, so I assume it's OK. Peter - I will pop along to Bury, probably today, as it's a lovely Sunday morning. Thank you. RNinMunich - I don't have a compatible TX but will look into that at some point. I did consider the 1:350 version, but read that the dies were very old now, and that the Academy 1:400 was more recent and far more accurate. I'll show some pictures of the hull layout later. it was quite a struggle, and I've gone to quite a bit of effort to keep it balanced, with a heavy towards the front to make it go 'down by the bow' (but not sink). Yes, quite ambitious. The hardest part was that the two outer props are incredibly close to the hull, so that only very small motors will fit. I didn't want to go for any sort of flexible coupling as I thought that would lose too much power, and larger motors probably wouldn't fit anyway. I don't really mind if it's slow and hard to manoevre, as that would be realistic. if it doesn't work I may rip the motors out and just pit one big one in the middle and steer by rudder.

6 years ago by malcolmstroud

Blog

H.M.S. BRAVE BORDERER

From the brief pool test, had decided that the motors could be susceptible to overheating, so connected up the water jacket cooling system and powered it with a small pump. Did not leave enough space to fit a scoop behind a propeller anyway, but prefer the positive action of a pump though. From feeling the ESCs, was also concerned they could overheat within a confined space such as the hull. Mounted a couple of small fans in a bridge structure above the ESCs, along with the ESC switches. Not sure either of these cooling modifications are really required, but erred on the side of caution. Final weight of the hull, with all electrics (apart from battery) comes to 5.05 lbs. Looks like will not achieve the target weight of 6 lbs, but am hopeful will be able to get close to it.. Built the deck up with gun mount bases and a removable decking over the engine area. This limits access to the internals; so will not fit it permanently until the test program is complete and all modifications incorporated. Have now reached a point where any further work will be to start finishing the model, unless drivetrain modifications are required. Have thus decided to leave it until after the first open water test date. This will be in late May as am away until then.

6 years ago by Rowen

Blog

H.M.S. BRAVE BORDERER

Once the rudder, propeller and shafts were installed, the position of the motors could be established. A light aluminium bracket to hold all three was fabricated and bonded to the hull. Due to the high speed capability of the brushless motors, particular attention was paid to alignment. Also kept to the shortest prop. shafts that could be fitted to avoid whipping. Although the motor type might change, whatever is best will require a sound electrical installation as the current requirements for each brushless motor could reach 50 Amps. Wired each motor and ESC separately with its own dedicated fuse to give the maximum system protection. There is an extra fuse section allocated for auxiliary circuits, such as a cooling and lights. Will try the original planned layout of 3 x 2835 motors with 30mm propellers and a 2S Li-Po battery first. Am hoping the reduced voltage will also make these motors more tractable. For the test program the three ESCs will be each controlled from an individual Rx channel. Once the final layout is determined, a more sophisticated and flexible control system can be installed. To minimize ballast, particularly around the stern, the battery will be housed as far into the bow as possible. After the test runs the final battery type, size and location can be established. To assess performance, hope to try both 2 and 3S Li-Po batteries. Planning to reduce heat build up by fitting cooling water jackets to the motors, these are easiest to instal at this stage so the wiring or mounts are not disturbed in the future. Have not decided the layout for the water circuit yet, but this easily can be added later. All that is needed now is the ice to melt off our local lakes so tests can commence.

6 years ago by Rowen

Directory

(Fire Boat) Grimmershorn II

The Motor vessel 'Grimmershorn' was built in 1956/57 by Hansa Stahlund Schiffbau GmbH at Koln-Deutz for the Waterways and Shipping Administration at Cuxhaven.Her Daimler-Benz four stroke diesel engine had an output of 500hp. permitting a speed of 11.5 knots. The model hull and deck are vacuum formed ABS, timber work of precision cut ply, 2 full size plan sheets and a construction manual along with a fittings pack complete this kit. Technical Data Scale: 1:20 Length: 1038mm Beam 305mm The Grimmershorn was the second major kit I purchased from a model shop on the outskirts of Harlow in Essex back in the 1980s. The Krik kit is still produced and sold today. My build was a slow and lost enthusiasm so after completing the hull, deck, motor and bow thruster installation I gave the boat to my father in-law who completed the superstructure and sailed the boat for a while, eventually the boat was given back to me when the father in-law moved house. I then repaired the rudder, added a moving radar, a adjustable water cannon and pump also various extra fittings such as a detailed life raft and crane, buoys and captain figure. thus renamed the boat as Grimmershorn II a Search and rescue fire boat. (Motor: 950) (ESC: 15A 24v) (5/10)

6 years ago by CB90

Response

Sanding down.

Thanks Kevin. A model shop just gave me a good tip. Buy a car screen washer pump for the water cannon on my new project Police boat. They said it would be cheaper than the model pump. Halfords next place to visit. Glad I could be of help Doug. I have bought the 50cal. guns to match the carriages. The assembly instructions are available on the site. Still worried about breaking them whilst removing them from the sprue.🤔I am a precision engineer but this still fills me with nerves.😱

6 years ago by MouldBuilder

Forum

Caldercraft 6-12v

Almost finished me WSPS47 now and find that I have the fire monitor pump here STR at this time. This item is totally unused and still in the sealed packing it arrived in. I have checked the (surprising) cost of this pump online and I am asking nowhere the advertised price, in fact, if anyone would like to purchase it or has any swaps I'd be glad to hear from them 73 de Bill

6 years ago by bilzin

Forum

cooler

Hi can someone help me having a R A F fire and rescue craft i have just put a water scoop in the hull to cool the motor would it be better to install a electric pump to circulate the water faster .👍

6 years ago by acrefour

Forum

Sprinkles

Sprinkles, a scratch built, U.S. Coast Guard PWB (patrol boat waterways) is just about done. Operating features include; working running and searchlight, rotating radar and blue emergency beacon. Water monitor on cabin roof can traverse and squirt water 10-15 feet. Bending tubing for the water monitor was difficult, it is actually a composite of several types. Nozzle was made on Unimat. Pump is a Sig "gas passer" Propulsion is from two 600 size motors geared 2:1 with 9.6V Nimh and 3 blade 45mm Graupner props

7 years ago by Commodore-H

Forum

3d printing

Wondered why you'd been so quiet lately1 Was beginning to worry that you had bought your second 3D printer and the carbon fibre vest didn't withstand the attacks of SWMBO 🤔 LCM looks great👍 Are you going to fit the 'Doodle Bug' with Jetex (the senior members amongst us may remember that) and a flap valve for the characteristic sound?? V2 at 1/16; Length 87.5cm, Width (diameter) 10.3cm. Not so big in my terms, but BIG for a 24cm printing table!! Bon chance mon ami! Cheers Doug 😎 PS: water power or solid fuel for the V2?? When I was about 7 (1958) my Dad brought me a water powered 2 foot model of the Thor missile back from the States; pump pump pump ....... WHOOSH .... and gently back to earth on a parachute. I was KING of the block 😊 PPS: love the 50 cals👍 Can you do me two twin mounts at 1/35? 😉

7 years ago by RNinMunich

Forum

Crash Tender Shaft Tube Poistion

Yep! KISS; Keep it Stupid & Simple!! 😎 Most of my ships have twin or more screws so I need the brackets. But not on my single screw Sea Scout or fish cutter. 😉 Only ever had a water scoop to supply a pump for a fire monitor experiment. Mostly used to keep little boys fingers at a distance 😁 Up to now have never needed water cooling, at most a fan (ex PC processor fan) for the ESC. Cheers Doug 😎

7 years ago by RNinMunich

Forum

Motor Cooling

Hi SHG Models sell a that can be run for long time, l have one on my TID, and l've run for over 3/4 of an hour. Hope this helps. Regards Dave

7 years ago by EAGLE

Forum

Motor Cooling

Not an expert on this but I think the usual,(easiest) way is via a water pickup behind the prop and then exhausted though the side or whereever looks right. I have heard of motors or ESC's being fitted with temperature sensors that turn on a pump if the heat starts to build up. I think most pumps will only work for a short period at a time. Chris

7 years ago by octman

Forum

Battery problems

thanks Dave i got a seaking 120a watercoold brushless ESC by Hobbywing which handles the power well. Same motor as before got a 38m 2 blade prop looking for a 3 blade. i was originally useing the 12v battery to run the motor but it was no good now use a lipo which i have installed under the deck in front of the motor.the large battery is running the watercooling pump and is also the prefect weight for ballast.NO problems with the salt water as i have got stainless steel, brass and copper fittings and a good flush threw the cooling system with fresh water. might be some time before i can put up a video because the council is draining the pool next week for the annual winter maintenance which is a bummer as there other suitable ponds handy. cheers Allan

7 years ago by Patto

Forum

Possible Motors for Large Scale Tug

Im interested in building either a Mr Darby or a Pono tug. I saw some Flojet 74001 12V motors 0.8Amp (unloaded) 2600 rpm, they are 5 1/2" L X 3" Dia Would a pair of those work, my goal is some serious power? $40 doesnt seem so bad. Electronic Goldmine - Flojet 74001 Super Heavy Duty 12VDC Motor They are use in waste water RV pumping approx 12 gpm. Any advice?

7 years ago by raginghalfasian

Forum

And now it is ESC time

Hi Dave, absolutely clear! You and I seem to have the same Web Adviser 👍 With the sub that's just research at the moment! it needs renovating just to run as dynamic, not used for 10 years. Needs new accus and then re-trimming for the different weight! So, spurred on by Westquay👍; I have moved the renovation of Dad's old Sea Scout up the priority list. Took her down of the shelf day before yesterday after 25 years or so and removed all the junk. See attached photos. Junk was used for experiments with siren, , lights etc. Photo 1 'Off the Shelf', photo 2 'Junk Removed', photo 3 'The Junk!', #4 Stern and cockpit 'Off the Shelf'. Old DIN audio socket is for charging the RX accu. The hole was for a screw in telescopic antenna, borrowed from an old TX! Not very aesthetic but Quick and Dirty for trying things out. The 'odd thing' sticking out the transom is just a dummy exhaust hiding the bolt I put in to fix the antenna bracket inside. Needs must .... I have also started cleaning up the old Taycol Target and will put that back in instead of the Decaperm. Taycol will be adapted to run on a modern ESC with reverse; using the bridge diode method. Have been thinking of a Blog for the renovation of the Old Lady (the boat not the other half!!!😉)! So U26 will have to wait for more than just an interim refit. The SLEP comes much later! Not much room for diving gear, hull was carved out of 4 thick planks glued together with a big slot in the middle for equipment! Will be a challenge!!!!!!!! Cheers 😎

7 years ago by RNinMunich

Forum

Using old motors

Wow! A real collector 👍 Now that I have a Watt-meter I shall run some tests on my Target (after restoration!), test the reversing circuit and put it back in my Sea Scout where it belongs. The Sea Scout looks a bit sad after 25 years on the shelf. 🤔 She also has the commonly reported problem of de-lamination on the transom, also the Cabin roof curls at the edges. Any tips how to repair and cure this are very welcome. I'm thinking of stripping and varnishing her. What do you recommend? The grey lump half hidden in the cockpit is a siren, the servo with 2 micro switches is for this and the nav lights. Second servo is to swivel a water jet nozzle, pump is the black conglomerate at the rear of the engine compartment. A horrible piston pump but it worked,enough to surprise small boys who got too close 😉 Rudder servo on it's side, like everyone else has had to do. Current motor Decaperm, performance Sedate 🤔 Cheers 😎

7 years ago by RNinMunich

Forum

Battery problems

Hi Allan If you had water cooling and it was provided by your pump then it would seem the prop was far to coarse a pitch for you fast motor and very powerful battery which was quite capable of delivering well over 200 amps through the 160 amp ESC. Your comment re the power delivered rather confirms this, and holding a model at full speed to test is only possible for about 5-10 secs max. You need to get a much smaller and less coarse pitch 3 blade prop plus a wattmeter to measure the current to make sure you are no where near the max ESC current. Personal experience suggests this should be less than half the rated Max so say 70 amps for your ESC. Testing should be brief and stopped immediately if the current being taken is above 20-30 amps. Smaller props will reduce the current to an acceptable level and your model will go faster and for longer. As a guide 14 volts at 70 amps will be using 980 watts so you will perhaps appreciate why cooling is necessary. Also at such high currents the wiring from battery to ESC then motor will need to be capable of carrying such high currents. As there are three wires to the motor and the power is pulsed at high frequency they are usually not as heavy as the battery to ESC. Your battery to ESC connectors also need to be capable of high current such as Deans, Euro or bullet type. Having looked on U-tube it does appear that others have had similar experiences with this ESC. The specs say it is capable of running at 14.4 volts so when you buy a replacement I would ask your local store to run your motor with the ESC and your battery to ensure it works OK. if they have a wattmeter ask them to test the open current then also buy the wattmeter and a smaller 3 blade prop of slightly less diameter than that of the motor without the water jacket. Do a final brief test at home holding the model and see briefly what the wattmeter reads, this will be near the max current draw. if it's too high you need a smaller prop. There are several Perkassa builds on the site and some use brushless with success. if you search you will find details of their power train which may help you choose the best set up. I do hope you will soon have your model speeding round your lake. Dave

7 years ago by Dave M

Forum

Battery problems

Yes Dave I had the boat in the swimming pool and holding it stationary. The was running with a good flow of water before and after the fire. I just had a thought maybe there was to much turbulence from the prop around the water intake which is behind the rudder stopping the water flow when the motor was running at speed . I couldn't see the out let as it was on the side away from me. Maybe i will have to move the inlet or something. Cheers Allan

7 years ago by Patto

Forum

Battery problems

Thanks Dave The pump is necessary as i was not getting any water threw with just the scoop. the pump is running on a separate battery.I have started looking into getting a new prop and lipo batteries. Thanks for your help i will keep you informed at how i get on. cheers Allan

7 years ago by Patto

Forum

Battery problems

Hi Allan You don't really need a pump with a fast boat as a simple scoop placed just behind the prop will give ample cooling water. Is it possible that your pump is becoming ineffective as the battery drains? Your prop was OK with the brushed motor because it was designed for this type of motor, brushless need much less coarse pitch propellers or very high capacity batteries and ESC's. Hope you can find a suitable set up Dave

7 years ago by Dave M

Forum

Battery problems

G/Day All Thanks for all of your advice. I have a 2 blade 40mm prop and the shaft is running free. i originally running a Johnson brushed motor with no problems with power except it and the esc i had got extremely hot. i could not find a water cooled brush motor so that is why I got the brush less motor. it is very hard to get model boat parts in Australia. Maybe it might be easier to put the old motor back in, i have now got a so i maybe able to make a cooling system. Cheers Allan

7 years ago by Patto

Response

Sad News

Hi Paul, Thanks, Yes every one's advice is well welcomed. I also like your advice about the Syringe with the little hose attached to it! I think I'll look for the seam that's leaking. I'll fix that and also buy a for good measure.... Ed

7 years ago by figtree7nts

Blog

Sad News

I had San Pedro in the bath a day ago, Just doing a seaworthiness test! I think she was in the water for about 5hrs, needles to say she took on about 4oz of water! I didn't realize until a day later when I picked her up to put her back in the water. I saw a water stain didn't pay to much attention to it. I went to turn on her running system. As you can imagine I had a look of dread, when I saw all that water and no pump to pump it out of the engine room... I took the batteries out, they suffered no damage. The electronics was pulled out and dried! I left the superstructure off so the engine room can dry. It will be a few weeks of drying, before I can try to access where the leak is coming from.😡😡😡 But I think it's all the weight she carries. 21lbs is quite a bit to carry! Oh, well I'll figure it out later...😭😭😭

7 years ago by figtree7nts

Forum

Simple illuminated on / off switch

Hello Got a tug with delicate superstructure. I'd like to instal an 'external' illuminated on/off switch so I contect 2x 12vbatteries, lights /hose and then put the accommodation back on and then at the lake, just flick/push the external switch, without removing accommodation and risk damaging on the muddy pond bank. Any ideas please? I want illuminated for easy to see on or off but that is desired not essential. Thanks

7 years ago by barnet

Media

Tug 'DHB Dauntless'

Scratch Built 1:32 scale Dover Harbour Board Tug, DHB Doughty. The main hull is a standard Damen hull purchased from Mobile Marine Models, see their website for Portgarth. the hull is fitted with 2 x T12 Motors for the main propulsion,2 x 60 degree kort nozzles for steering, with 2 x purpose made brass props. Also fitted is a 12v Graupner for the working fire monitor and Fwd spray bar, 2 x Mtronks 15 amp ESC's, Futaba steering servo and Futaba 40 MHz Receiver. Approx Dimensions including fendering Loa 41" Beam 14"

7 years ago by barnet

Blog

Detailing the transom.

The real boat had some detail on the transom which I would like to incorporate on my model, these are the two main engine exhausts and the pump engine exhaust and there are also two small drain outlets from the rear cockpit. As my ESC is water-cooled I want to use the pump engine exhaust detail as my cooling water outlet. I have used brass portholes as the basis for the exhaust details as they look very similar to the real thing with the rivet holes around the circumferences, the two main engine exhausts are 8mm internal diameter and the pump exhaust is a 6mm internal diameter type. I first removed the rear flanges of the larger portholes by rubbing them flat over some wet & dry paper so that they will sit flush on the transom. I left the flange on the 6mm porthole as it will help locate the assembly in the transom. I used a 6mm external brass tube set into the smaller porthole with a very short protrusion on the external side and about 25mm to pass through the hull to leave 20mm inside the boat to connect the flexible silicone water tube to. Once I was happy with the positioning of the details I drilled the single hole for the water outlet and slightly countersunk the outside of the hole to allow for the small flange on the rear of the port hole The tube was fixed into the porthole with a light smear of epoxy and when set the assembly was given a coat of etch primer and a couple of light light coats of black gloss and then set aside as I won't fix it in place until the hull has received it final coats of black gloss. I also etch primed and painted the two larger exhaust pipe flanges ready for glueing to the transom. If I can find a couple of even smaller brass portholes, perhaps 3mm, I may also fit them as the cockpit drain ports in the finishing stages. The hull will get a couple of overall coats of clear lacquer to seal this transom detailing and the lettering decals as well.

7 years ago by robbob

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BOILER

Can somebody send me a graphic on where the copper tubes from the should be attached to the boiler? Thanks, Luis

8 years ago by deoliveira