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    Blog
    Hull finishing touches
    The Huntsman Hull has now had the finishing touches applied...Sanding Sealer, Eze-Kote, glassfibre sheet and hull chine bars added. The inside of the hull has been given a good dollop of Eze-Kote to seal it and
    waterproof
    it so next job is to fit the prop tube and motor before the whole hull gets a coat of primer... I've only just realised, but the kit from SLEC does not contain any decking, so I need to sort out whether to just go for plain mahogany veneer or try to find teak decking which is laser cut to fit with plank marks....any help or advice here welcome for a novice! (I can't find anything suitable on the internet). 😑
    5 days ago by StuartE
    Forum
    Planking
    Hi Dave, I was faced with the same question last year when renovating and restoring the hull of an ancient Billing Boats Fish Cutter 'Gina 2' that I had inherited. The Blog gives blow by blow account of how I stabilised and
    waterproof
    ed the hull. https://model-boats.com/builds/view/43305?goto=43306 Otherwise Haverlock is quite right tooπŸ‘ I would have liked to have had a varnished wood finish but the original hull construction was so bad I had to fill it (after applying glass-fibre tissue to the inside) and the green filler gave it a tortoise shell effect!!😲 have fun. Cheers, Doug😎
    12 days ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Shroud for Model Air Boat
    Hello, Airboats are not something I have real experience with, but your one comment got my attention: SuperGlue, or CA, an abbreviation, as it is commonly referred to. It does not withstand constant exposure to water. it is not
    waterproof
    . Now there is likely to be a storm of comments against this, but this is based upon experience over 20 years. CA is great and I do use it for some applications on my boats. However if it's below the waterline make certain to adequately sealed or properly painted over it. This is a good rule for most glues that sit below the water, with the exception of truely
    waterproof
    glues like epoxy. Good luck with your projects. Cheers Joe
    28 days ago by Joe727
    Response
    Sports cruiser ''ALI''
    Planking by 2mm pvc. its not smooth. I normally use the paint putty,with cement powder. its good and
    waterproof
    .
    2 months ago by Sakibian
    Response
    Sports cruiser ''ALI''
    Hello, Looks good! I use PVC for all my wood. CA is not very water resistant. if you can get the
    waterproof
    type PVC, use that. if not, if it is just a white glue, make sure all glued areas are covered with a
    waterproof
    coating. Such as varnish or paint. When I glue wood, I put glue on each joint, let it sit for a few minutes while it soaks into the wood grain. Apply a bit more glue and press together. Clamp or somehow hold the joint securely while it dries. Most PVCs take at least 30 minutes to set. Depending on the joint, I usually will come back a day later and fill any gap that may appear. PVC creats a joint stronger than wood. CA is brittle and the joint can snap. Give it a try and good luck to you. Joe
    2 months ago by Joe727
    Directory
    (Naval Ship) March'71
    The BEST thing about this one is, she's very smooth on the run. Decent power, makes it more fun. When it turns with speed, gets down like a bike. So that's the time when it leaks a tiny amount of water. Bcz it's not
    waterproof
    on the deck. Can take 2s-3s Lipo. Bcz the motors are 3s rated only. Have a plan to change them into better Mabuchi ones. (Motor: 180 brushed motor) (ESC: Hnadmade by arduino) (8/10)
    2 months ago by Sakibian
    Forum
    Propshaft Lubrication
    Hi All I use silicon tap grease as it's
    waterproof
    and add a bit more after each outing. Strip down, check for wear once a year and regrease. Started using Teflon bearings for the lower bearing which are holding up to the brushless motors. Canabus
    3 months ago by canabus
    Forum
    Pretend deck planking
    Hi Steve, What went wrong? 😲 1. Drawing on deck planking, i.e. on a veneer or thin ply- Why/how did it go wrong? Surely since the planks are all 'parallel curves' all you need to do is make a curve template in plasticard from the plan. Then at a few strategic points along the plank length mark the widths of the planks. Set the template along these points and 'Bob's yer Uncle - Fanny's yer Aunt' πŸ˜‰ Mind you; doing it that way the 'curious grain of the planks' would betray the fiddleπŸ€” 2. 'what type of strip wood - Any very close grained type. Possible source- http://www.slecuk.com/index.html 3. How to glue it!? Any thin, spreadable
    waterproof
    wood glue! 4. Gap? Max 0.5mm perhaps. Ca 10 to 1 ratio. 5. 'How do you secure the bent planks whilst the glue dries? Modelling pins at strategic points along the plank. Assumes planks are pre-shaped by steaming!! See 6. πŸ˜‰ 6. 'Do I need to steam the planks? - YES! As mentioned above; make a template defining the curve required. From this make a jig of ca 5mm x 10mm in which you can set the steamed planks to cool and set to the shape required. To allow for the so called 'spring back' make the jig with a slightly sharper curve than the actual deck curve. When fitting the planks to the deck it's easier to 'push them out' than to try to increase the curvature. Finally; mark on the deck base the plank widths at strategic points along the plank length as alignment points. Glue planks alternately left/right (OK port/starboardπŸ˜‰) using modelling pins to hold in place until the glue is fully cured. For the 'gaps' There are various solutions in Build Blogs on this site. One that I like is the use of thin black card. When the whole deck is planked and properly cured sand lightly (ca 240 grit). 7. 'weathered teak' there are various suppliers of teak stain and also deck weathering stains; e.g. Jotika stain, Lifecolor Washes for Hulls and Wooden Decks, set part no. LP04, which includes Wooden deck darkener and Shadower, amongst other useful weathering pigments. http://www.astromodel.it Google Lifecolor and you'll surely find some UK distributors. Enough answers for enough questions!? 😁 Hope this provides some inspiration, Cheers, Doug 😎
    3 months ago by RNinMunich
    Blog
    Proboat Sonicwake
    Three weeks ago I got a Proboat Sonicwake deep V fast electric. This appears to be a replacement for their previous model Vorocity. Very interesting self righting method with a water tank on the port side, slots in the deck and a large exit point at the stern. Idea is that if it capsizes, water will enter through the slots and as it draws the boat under, the air trapped in the hull will self right it. If the boat is stationary in the water, it will list to port due to water entering through the stern outlet and when power is applied it will empty out. Bit scary to watch at first as I thought the boat was on its way to Davy Jones. I use
    waterproof
    marine clear tape to seal around the hatch ever time I use it. The quality of the hull raises a few concerns. This relates to its ABS construction as the vast majority of similar boats at that price are made of fibreglass which is much more rigid and would be more suitable for the high speeds. Makers claim it does 50 MPH plus on 6S lipos. The electrics however are excellent with the exception of the external quality of the Horizon Hobby STX2 TX which looks a bit "toyish". For myself, this is not relevant as I replace all my wheel TXs with the "stick type" and I found that the Futaba T2HR fulfils all requirements and worked well when I sailed the boat. I have not yet changed the stock prop for an Octura one, the latter works great on my Blackjack 29 with a noticeable increase in performance. The motor is a Dynamite Marine W.C brushless 1900 KV with a 120 amp W.C ESC . πŸ˜πŸ˜‹ Boaty.
    4 months ago by boaty
    Forum
    fuse holder
    I had a look at my suppliers, and found this in Amazon(!). Any good? "DIGITEN
    waterproof
    in Line standard Blade Fuse Holder fuses+10A 10Amp kit car boat bike". Good luck with your testing!
    4 months ago by b111yboy71
    Response
    BRAVE BORDERER - BRUSHLESS SUMMARY
    Thank you! Found this pump in Ali express. Here's the link if anyone needs:
    waterproof
    Ultra-quiet Water Pump 4.2W 240L/H Micro Brushless DC 12V Water Pump Car Submersible Fountain Aquarium Circulating https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/cVs7aajO
    4 months ago by Sakibian
    Forum
    Transfers
    its even better if you can get a hold of a laser printer since the "ink" is
    waterproof
    so no need to varnish before doing the waterslide.
    5 months ago by Haverlock
    Forum
    Carry case.
    "It's not very heavy and it won't get wet!" Unless you never put it down on wet grass, and drain and then towel your boats after use before putting them back, it will. Be sure to get all the water out of the prop-tube.... " I can't be arsed with fancy carpentry. " No carpentry involved. The material is like cardboard, and you just cut it out with a Stanley knife and fold it. Takes between 10 and 30 mins to make a box from scratch... " And what IS Correx? " Sometimes known as 'twin-flute', it's the stuff estates agent's boards are made of, amongst a myriad of other uses. A twin-walled polypropylene rather like a kind of cardboard made of plastic. Very tough, feather-light and impact-resistant. Self-coloured (many colours available) and completely
    waterproof
    . Needs no framing - the sides are strong enough on their own... See the link for full description, place to get it and plans...
    5 months ago by DodgyGeezer
    Forum
    Cleaning sails, toy yachts, etc....
    My wee red boat after a rub down and a file/sand on the steel keel. This morning I painted the red with HMG enamel and got the green mixed in the same make enamel by my wonderful chap at Kett's Auto Paints. The mast came in two parts, so I did a slight scarf and glued it. When the joint is well set, I'll make a splint and set it in prior to a rub down and a good waxing. The steel (tinplate) parts came with the predictable rust, but with my selection of scrapers and chisels made of broken and worn Swiss files I was able to scrape most of it off back to reasonable shiny steel. The out of shapeness needed only a clout with a cold chisel type of bodywork tool in the right places to restore it to original shape. Loops were filed to lose most of their rust, but not replaced. They'll be Vaselined as a form of anti rust,
    waterproof
    ing. I have some new 1.3mm cord coming from Caldercraft. I just hope I can remember how it was rigged. I ain't great with knots. The sails were absolutely filthy with some sort of oil based grime, but my dear bride sorted them out with Vanish and a good hand wash. Pics of those tomorrow. I love this stuff.! Martin
    5 months ago by Westquay
    Response
    BRAVE BORDERER
    Good to hear you are making progress with the noise. My ESCs are not programmable as far as I know (There may be a card somewhere). They were cheap Chinese
    waterproof
    car/Buggy ESCs with Fwd and Rev which I wanted for independent drives but for the price and how well they work, you can't beat them (about NZ $20 each) They have a very soft start (you can count the revs) programmed in as std, and the only problem I have found is that they sometimes won't go straight into reverse without quickly nudging forward and back, (just need to drive in a scale manner and it's fine.) I'll put a pic of the unit and motor in (also a brushed one I am using in the MTB (x2) which work perfectly only NZ $9.00) They have braking, FWD, FWD+REV and batt type adjustable by jumpers. Throttle set-up is simple with full FWD and partial Rev set by the sticks. Both types are 30A and never even get warm. I purchased some fans for them but have never used them. The brushless units have a fan plug on them. The squealing I have may just require a switching frequency change on the ESC (8kHz/16kHz -more RF noise on 16kHz but more efficient) but I don't think I have that option (do you have that option to try on your set-up ? might be worth a crack). The sound units muffle it a bit anyhow. Boat runs at 10mph (GPS) flat out (looks way off scale) but only needs about 1/4 - 3/4 throttle for normal cruising. Will try to put up an external vid soon. Transmitter is easily modded to twin throttles,- excellent cheap set for boats ( later model has internal aerial)
    6 months ago by jbkiwi
    Blog
    Added ESC
    Added a 60A ESC of Chinese origin, improved
    waterproof
    ing, and modified the rudder water pickup. Repainted trim tab extension as while it sat in the test tank (AKA the bath) the water got into the wood and split the paint work car spray paint not as water proof as I had hoped. On the test I found it was pulling over 40Amps which is not what I want as this is a race boat with limited battery capacity so cut down propeller by filling of the lagging edge of the prop via a drimmel and a file, so now pulls under 30A at full throttle. At the pond I will check current and prop-sizes.
    7 months ago by CB90
    Forum
    BRUSHLESS ESC
    From my experience I would suggest 2-3x your motor current rating especially cheap ones from china, I have found that a brushless motor can rapidly draw high currents with fouling of the propeller by weed etc. I would check the current drawn with the propeller you intend to use with a watt meter in the test tank (bath) held stationary increase power and monitor the current drawn this must be well within the limits of your ESC this should show a 10-15% higher power consumption than when moving. The best bit of advice (which I often don't follow myself) is to put a fuse in line Please note some ESCs are not
    waterproof
    (avoid) or seal them with silicon sealant, go for a quality manufacturer and the highest current rating your can afford. Cheap 30A ESCs can be ok for low power motors under 10Amps my racing boat pull 60 Amps and is fused at 80Amps and has a 200Amp ESC
    8 months ago by CB90
    Media
    Titanic
    I built this 1/125th scale Amati kit of the Titanic over two years from 2016. it has enhanced etched brass details from Minibrass. Conversion for radio control involved making the hull
    waterproof
    with multiple layers of fibreglass cloth bonded with epoxy resin as well as the installation of a drive train and RC gear. With only a tiny rudder, steering is dependent on a mixer unit controlling the differential speed of the propellors.
    9 months ago by JeremyBB
    Forum
    Sails for Vanity
    Just a thought Martin on the wherry sails , have you thought of using boot polish to colour the sail. As you probably know that the original wherry sail started of white and it was only the
    waterproof
    ing treatment they used that turned the sails black. Ron
    10 months ago by kmbcsecretary
    Response
    Vanity, Victorian Cutter
    R/C gear going in on a 2 piece plank, so it'll fit through the hatches. Some deck planks going on, king plank too. Coamings to help water proof from splash. These are Foamex, completely
    waterproof
    stuff. The hatches and houses will be fitted with magnets eventually. The planking is NOT a la yacht. For some reason Dan Hatcher laid deck planks like workboats and motor boats, parallel to the King plank, not the covering boards. Believe me when you've lived on one of these and put every pot you have under the deck leaks when it rains, you know the pattern of the laid deck! Rear deck half just rested on as the R/C gear is yet to be finished. Waiting for some more allly tube to guide the steering cables and braided line for the sheet control. Steering servo coming this afternoon. Martin
    10 months ago by Westquay
    Forum
    It's a sad day!.
    Hi Les, funny we've come full circle, I started my model sailing at newsham park back in the late 50s and was there at the beginning of "The Liverpool model POWER boat club back in 1964, when I was 14 years old. Notice the power was omitted from the clubs name approx' 15 years ago. In 1964 i had just completed my first aerokits sea scout complet with an ED seagull 1cc diesel, this club was where I met most of my mentors and founder members of the club, Jimmy Wilson, Cliff'Broadbent, Monty, Oscar Poulson etc etc all now sadly gone to that big lake in the sky where anything goes. I'm in southport now and do go back to newsham from time to time. Thank you for that bit of very interesting info'. The afore mentioned sea scout has just undergone a major re-fit after 55 years, the 1cc diesel has been replaced with a 3940 kv brushless and 60 esc running on 11.1 lipo, yes I know all to big for a little 24inch sea scout, but as the yanks would say " there ain't no substitute for C.C. Boy", you don't have to use it but nice to have. Martin you mentioned the old glue used in those days, the sea scout I made was glued using "caskomite" (can't remember the correct spelling) the boat is still 100%
    waterproof
    with no skin separation at all, I do not intend tarting the boat up at all, prefer to keep it the way a 14 year old boy (me) had made it apart from bringing the running gear up to 21st century and something that can be used at my local lakes. Norman.
    10 months ago by stormin
    Forum
    It's a sad day!.
    Yep, built mine with my Dad, a 34" Crash Tender. We used the then new PVA glue and to be honest, 54 years later it still holds well and is
    waterproof
    . I really must finish it some day! I confess I never had an IC engine in a boat, but I've always had an ED Racer with water jacket and big brass flywheel. Still have it on my shelf with others, but I could never get the buggers to start! So Dad made sure the Crash Tender had a good electric motor when he spoiled me with it all for my 11th Christmas. I had REP single channel R/C and a Taycol Supermarine motor and Taycol coupling. That's what's in it and will stay in it. Alas the R/C gear was stolen. I could replicate the case, but there just ain't the time for all these things, so an old Mini Hex 1970s Propo set will go in it as a classic curio. I used it for years with the REP on the oyster ponds at Paglesham. Left, centre, right, centre, wiggle right, wiggle right and so on. The Taycol ate batteries! Martin
    10 months ago by Westquay
    Response
    Vanity, Victorian Cutter
    Thanks, I used to make top end model furniture for the Home Miniaturists. it's my way of finding a connection with my cabinet maker Granddad, who was a big model boat fan too, in fact he was a founder member of the Victoria Model Steamboat Club. She is 48x9x11 plus bowsprit. Height of rig is about 4 feet also. And yes the fitting on the keel is a piece of ally box section cut in half so it becomes U section, drilled through at equal spacing for the fin keel. Then the U section is screwed with brass screws and Marineflex sealer/adhesive to the keel, which is all solid hardwood. I did my sums and gave up, so once she was
    waterproof
    I put her in my son's fish pond and kept piling stuff in until she floated on her marks. Rigging won't be that heavy, but I made an allowance for it. Once it was floating right it turned out to need 14 1/2lbs. of ballast. BUT, that's inside. On the end of a 15" inch(ish) fin it will be less. I have 2 half bulbs cast by my other son in his back garden from my patterns. They will be bolted to the fin and faired in. Cheers, Martin
    10 months ago by Westquay
    Forum
    Sea Commander restoration tips
    Get yourself a small pack of epoxy resin from ebay and seek out all slight delaminations of the plywood frames. Get the epoxy in those split bits and clamp them up. A clothes peg is sufficient if you're short of space. You can put a piece of cling film twixt peg and wood so the peg doesn't stick. Then use the rest of the epoxy to
    waterproof
    the insides. Be thorough and methodical. if you sand the model back to wood, use epoxy on that, either through fine model aircraft fibreglass cloth or just squeegee epoxy on all over with an old credit card. it goes much further and gets forced into the grain. it's not necessary to use GRP cloth on everything if it's well built. I have several over-50 year old model boats that are perfectly water tight with decent paint jobs (enamel, of course). Cheers, Martin
    10 months ago by Westquay
    Forum
    wood glue
    It claims to be
    waterproof
    and I have no reason to doubt that it is. This pic is of my rather old bottle but it still works fine. Smiffy
    11 months ago by Smiffy
    Forum
    wood glue
    I had used Cascamite glue for years and found it superb. I could not find it locally recently but will now try the internet. incidentally, is the tite glue
    waterproof
    or just weatherproof? Thanks, Bill
    11 months ago by luckybill
    Response
    Bits n pieces arrived / Aft Deck Mk 2 built ;-)
    Thanks very much MT, 😊 I may not be quick but I do try to be thorough! Used to drive my boss nuts, but I got results πŸ˜‰ Yep, saw that in Model Boats ( I have a digital subscription - disadvantage is that I don't get the free plans 😭) nice subject - good luck πŸ‘ Will watch your progress with interest. Next job for me is to cut out the windows from 3mm green tinted plexi (or acrylic) 'glass'. Last step to make the Sea Scout
    waterproof
    . If the weather holds up I will drive down to Garmisch, ca 100km south of Munich, on Saturday to meet up with Krampus, from this site; for sea trials of the Sea Scout. Wish me luck, or 'Hals und Bein-bruch' (Break neck and leg!) as the locals say 😲 After 33 years I still haven't figured out why πŸ€“ Yesterday experimented with printable decal sheets for the nameplates! Watch this space!!! πŸ˜‰ Ciao, Doug 😎
    11 months ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    wood glue
    With out a doubt titebond 2 the only
    waterproof
    wood glue
    11 months ago by kmbcsecretary
    Response
    Ready for the first test on water
    Hi Donnie, Yep, we had 25°C (Plus!) here yesterday😎, should be warm next week as well but I still have to fit windows to make her
    waterproof
    , and a brass or alu U channel to protect the keel. Ciao, Doug
    12 months ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Brushless Programming Cards
    Thanks for your responses, please note this ESC does not have a brand name (generic Chinese job) and it didn't have any mention of a card on the instructions. Anyway I tried it on 2 cards I have got and they did not work, resorted to sticks and code tones to turn off the break function. Boat ran well if a bit too powerful, may use 7.4v instead of 11.1v Features: 200A Brushless ESC with 5V/5A SBEC Water cooling.
    waterproof
    design(Need to use 704 silicone rubber by yourself). This super simple boat series comes with a limited range of programming functions and are designed to be plug-n-play. A perfect ESC for those looking for something simple to use and economic. Specifications: Cont current: 200A Burst current: 230A BEC model: Switch BEC output: 5V/5A Recommend battery: Li-ion/Lipoly 2-7S;Ni-MH/Ni-Cd 6-20NIMH Cooling: Watercooled ESC weight: 124g ESC size: 92mm * 40mm * 22mm Please note only cost Β£17 at the time , now Β£32 (4/2018) via Amazon
    12 months ago by CB90
    Blog
    more progress.
    First job today was to reduce the rudders by 1cmx1cm which I think not only looks better but should reduce the affects that have been mentioned in comments below. Ive fitted the cockpit which I assembled yesterday. its not the best fit into the deck, however, I shall blend it all in with some balsa strip, sand, filler, sanding sealer hopefully for a seamless finish. I have pictured the 2 x Hobbyking
    waterproof
    boat 30 amp esc. These are supposed to be water cooled, however I am not going to fit the tubing and start drilling water pickup and exit holes in the hull x 4 until I think that water cooling is going to be necessary. Once I have watt meter readings for 2S and 3S lipo, it will give me an idea what the ESC are going to be like. Of course if you guys think I need to go water cooling, please let me know! I have an Mtroniks W-tail mixer that will allow the motors to be synched to the rudders allowing the inboard motor to slow or stop when turning. Never used one before, so may need to some programming once hooked up, we shall see. Last job today was to shoot a could of coats of red oxide primer on the lower hull to see what the resin finish was like. on the whole not a bad finish at all, just a could of tiny areas that need a little sanding for a faily blemish free finish.
    1 year ago by Skydive130
    Response
    Smoke Stack Completed!
    Looking good Ed,πŸ‘ I've often wondered at the height of the stacks I've seen in old photos of steam tugs, so I don't think yours is over-tall. it's a pretty big model isn't it? I guess they wanted to keep the smoke clear of the work deck. Re 'getting wet': you could try sealing the tube with diluted white
    waterproof
    PVA wood glue? Or even with EzeKote from Deluxe Materials? Cheers Doug 😎
    1 year ago by RNinMunich
    Response
    The Smoke Stack
    Hi Ed, Now I'm happy😊 As requested photos of the result. Sorry for hijacking your thread😭 I'll post the rest of the details in my Sea Scout blog, got a lotta updating to do there! Using this technique for a few more cycles I think one could get close to the Riva finish. Anyway, I think my boat is now
    waterproof
    and it's nearly 4am here, soooo time for some Sack Time! Cheers Doug 😎
    1 year ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    waterproof
    voltage droppers for sale
    open to offers all proceeds from this workshop clearance will be donated to this site
    1 year ago by kmbcsecretary
    Forum
    waterproof
    voltage droppers for sale
    Found these in workshop 12v >9v voltage droppers these are fully
    waterproof
    1 is still in original packaging have 2 in total neither have been used as I ordered the wrong ones. Happy to sell together or separately think Β£2.50 each to cover cost of postage
    1 year ago by kmbcsecretary
    Blog
    Decks
    Templates were made out of cardboard, good job that I like Weetabix, a bit of messing about but eventually I got a good fit, these were transferred onto the 3mm ply for the deck. Before fitting the deck the ply was given a couple of coats of Z-Poxy finishing resin rubbing down in-between coats, this filled in the grain ready for painting and also made it
    waterproof
    . After the glue had dried the deck and bulwark were given a coat of primere, then two coats of the finishing colour. After a week of the paint left to harden the coamings (if that's the right spelling) were glued in place.
    1 year ago by AlanP
    Forum
    Kyosho Fortune 612
    If you have not repaired this yet, I use Gorilla glue. it comes in several formulas, so read the label. One type will expand while curing. I do not use this type.I use the CA gel from Gorilla and the white
    waterproof
    glue .
    1 year ago by Ron
    Forum
    Marblehead Sailboat upgraded
    You can get very robust and
    waterproof
    toggle switches from companies that make underwater torches for divers. I have never had any trouble with them because of leakage or rusting. Try Birchley Products at http://www.birchleyproducts.co.uk/
    1 year ago by SelwynWilliams
    Forum
    motors
    hi i have a wooden huntsman 46 ready for motor my last post gave me some ideas i am looking at hobbyking turnigy xk3674 1900kv part number 9393000021-0 and turnigy marine 120a bec
    waterproof
    speed controller part number 9020000033-0 what do we think steve
    1 year ago by pilot
    Forum
    motors
    Don't take up knitting, you will never get a knitted boat
    waterproof
    😁
    1 year ago by Bryan-the-pirate
    Forum
    12v esc for trolling motor build
    Interesting project. Difficult to give advice on the info available. Looks like a steerable powered nozzle at the rear but what motor is it and what are the specs? An Esc does all the hard work and converts the rx pulses into usable power. I have arduinos and they can be programmed to control the power and rotation of a motor but would need additional high power Mosfets as well as other circuitry to buffer the unit from the output. If you are really into arduinos then a walk in the park but I believe an ESC would possibly be more robust and
    waterproof
    . It would be good if you were to post a build blog of your progress as the subject is certainly different to any models we have seen to-date. Good luck with the build
    1 year ago by Dave M
    Blog
    Painting starts-radio gear in!
    This day has seen the midnight blue airbrushed on followed by a thin coat of lacquer to give the roundel and trimline a good surface to stick too. Numbers to go on when they arrive from eBay. Having given the inside of the hull 2 coats of resin to
    waterproof
    it, I’ve now installed all The electronics, just the rudder pushrod to make and add. Next few days will see little progress as starting nights tonight!
    1 year ago by Skydive130
    Forum
    Happy Hunter
    hi -the hull only had these two motors and gearboxes in .I have greased the gearboxes cleaned the motors and soldered the wires on .The casings of the motors were rusty and have just been painted with a rust killer type paint..There is a bow thruster fitted with no motor but this locks up after about half a turn of the drive shaft -looks like I will need to replace this.I have bought 2 Chinese speed controllers with max current rating of 250amps (
    waterproof
    type) I have used these before and seem ok but my experience is limited..The intention was to drive the motors separately on 2 channels
    1 year ago by spitfiresooty
    Forum
    Fairey Marine
    I dont think anyone actually prints ready to use. So just put it in Google, then print it out and stick it on. Don't forget to laquer over the top to
    waterproof
    it. Sorry, but thats the best i can do. Best wishes, Dave W 😊
    1 year ago by rolfman2000
    Media
    Predator (Aeromarine Laminates USA)
    Aeromarine Laminates Predator 21 hull with HK 2630kv brushless outboard and Turnigy 120a w/c esc.
    waterproof
    metal geared Servo and will have 4-6s lipo when completed. NOW SOLD
    1 year ago by bilzin
    Blog
    Electronics Down Below (5)
    This time I will try to remember to put in the β€˜source’ information on the bits and pieces I use........... In the most recent piece I should have included exciters/transducers are Dayton Audio DAEX 25VT -4, 4 Ohms – 20 Watt pair, obtained from Sound Imports Netherlands and very quickly as well. The sound unit is a Mtroniks Digisound 5M diesel sound, available all over the place. Now to look at where I am at. Exciters are in place as high up the Hull as possible, but remembering the Deck level. Used the adhesive pads as supplied after wiping that part of the Hull with Meths and Silicone adhesive to keep in place as well as using the wiring tidies from Modelsport Ltd., for the cabling. (Pic 1+2) Before I start the motor and controller wiring I changed the platform β€˜up front’ (pic3) with a piece of thin ply which I have given a couple of coats of varnish to
    waterproof
    . Then I thought to myself β€œwhy am I
    waterproof
    ing this when, if it gets that wet, it will have gone to the bottom and be useless anyway”! (Pics 4) However, the platform gives a little more choice in terms of layout of other components and my plan for them is not really settled yet. I am concerned about the stern and possible swamping, but it currently seems the best place for the upgraded battery. (Pic5 ) Whilst talking batteries, I have gone for a separate battery supply for the receiver and hope to use the Bec supply for running other less critical items. Also the fitting of the battery in the stern bay drew my attention to the rudder servo for a couple of reasons. First is I am still considering increasing the size of the rudders and I am assuming that will increase the strain on the servo. The servo supplied is a standard issue and not water resistant so I have gone for an upgrade as shown(Pic6) That gives torque increase of 17Kg/cm over the Hobby Engine S1040C and has metal gears, metal control arm and
    waterproof
    for 20grams extra weight. Second is the closeness to the new battery position. So I was going to alter the servo arm setup anyway and the new metal arm suits this well. Maybe my β€˜tutors’ will consider all this to be a little β€˜over the top’ but I do so enjoy messing......................... New Servo DS 3218 by AYANI from Amazon. (Pics 6/7 ) Following that distraction, back to the front end and the Motor/Mixer placing and wiring. Now a little time ago I drew a plan to see what could go where and it came out that most of the β€˜bits’ would go in the front bay with motors to be wired once power was brought forward, followed by the Esc/Mixer. (Pic 8) At that time I bought a P94 dual esc/mixer from Action Electronics and got the 20 amp version to be on the safe side................. My β€˜guardians’ did point out this was β€˜over-kill’ but I had already got it. Now, when placing the unit on the mounting board I found that the heatsinks made it too high to fit in the Hull! So being a spoilt brat only child I ordered the 10 amp version and as usual it came very quickly from up here in Bangor. ( Will keep the other one for the next project............Happy Hunter??) Unboxed it and it looked just the same, heatsinks and all. (Pic 9/10 ) So at that moment there was a bit of a set-back so I rang Component Shop at Bangor, they said β€œtake the heat sinks off and you have a P94 lite”! Such a simple answer and such a nice chap. (Pic 11 ) Now a quick 'measure up' before I have a glass of wine (Pic 12) and does it all fit...? Well it appears to at the moment! (Pic 13) Next time really going to screw down the components under the forward hatch and wire it up. NPJ
    1 year ago by NPJ
    Response
    Racing Sloop (no name yet)
    Thank you, Bruce! I normally build boats using Styrene sheets since I don't like to get into the epoxy business. I know others work a different procedure by using clear lacquer and are able to
    waterproof
    and give that crystal-like looking appearance. Any ideas you or any other shipmates may offer to this humble swabbie?
    1 year ago by Krampus
    Forum
    Hobby Engine Richardson Upgrade
    PS to Chris, Assuming an optimum speaker / transducer, to get more volume you need a more powerful amplifier, more Watts! The little stand-alone boards rarely produce more than 1W. Again check the Component Shop. Also check that your speaker / transducer is rated for the higher power!! If using a traditional speaker with a cone make sure it is a
    waterproof
    Mylar cone!!! 'Uvverwise' they can go awful soggy an' droopy πŸ€” Cheers Doug 😎
    1 year ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Hobby Engine Richardson Upgrade
    Hi Neville, to be real, there is no such thing as a
    waterproof
    switch, stay with the switch in the hull, yes its a faff to keep lifting the cab but it does keep the water out. Cheat on the build thread??? your building it from basic components, take the pickies and post them, not like me who made a complete cods of the whole thing, still cant get my photos on the blog!!!! Mark
    1 year ago by jarvo
    Forum
    Hobby Engine Richardson Upgrade
    Thank you again Mark. I was thinking of trying to set up a
    waterproof
    switch accessible above deck. Thought it would be easier when at the 'quayside'. When some of the other bits arrive I will be in a position to start 'laying out' and looking at the balance. I will be following advice received here, but will keep asking questions....... Some bits will not be here until second week in October! Still plenty to do though. Have started to keep bits in boxes as you suggested. Really grateful for all the help. Have taken some images and will start the 'build thread' but seems a bit of a cheat as it is already built............. Cheers to all. NPJ
    1 year ago by NPJ


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