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    40'' Seaplane Tender, new build N
    Have made the rudders, shaft struts and steering arms. Steering arms were brass strip (6mm x 1mm) drilled to suit 3mm ID stepped OD aircraft
    wheel collars
    (HK,- large OD 7mm, small OD 5mm). Kept strip in full length while drilling then soldering each collar, then cut to length afterwards (easier to manage). Have made the rudders, shaft struts and steering arms. Steering arms were brass strip (6mm x 1mm) drilled to suit 3mm ID stepped OD aircraft
    wheel collars
    (HK,- large OD 7mm, small OD 5mm). Kept strip in full length while drilling then soldering each collar, then cut to length afterwards (easier to manage). Drive shaft tubes are epoxied in but still have to tidy epoxy up and streamline the drive shaft tubes back and front where they leave the hull (see sketch)to avoid cavitation at higher speeds. Struts are same brass strip, wrapped around shaft tube and drawn tight with pliers, then legs cut and filed to size and soldered to hull 'mounts' (again using full length strip and cutting to size and filing later). These will be epoxied into the hull and thick cyno'd to the tube as they are only for decoration. Steering will be by a plastic aircraft cable (40yr old Graupner left-over cable actually) running up past half way to the servo. No new technology here!
    5 years ago by jbkiwi
    Forum
    Hints and Tips.
    They are a really good idea Martin, I've been using them since the 60s in boats and planes. To add to your idea, some other slightly stronger items to try are R/C plane
    wheel collars
    (steel or brass) which are available in different IDs. I found that sometimes the brass terminals (electrical) will split at the bottom if you use a bit much force and can come loose. A couple of
    wheel collars
    hang on pretty well, and don't have any screws sticking out to catch on things. (I've had partially jammed rudders now and again)
    5 years ago by jbkiwi


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