Response

Re: Barge find

The Speedline barge had a . Could be an indication as to parentage. Nerys

5 years ago by Nerys

Forum

46'' RAF Crash Tender

Hi Martin, it's pretty tight but I've made provision for accessing everything but the steering 'quadrants' but they should be ok for life (hopefully!) otherwise I would have to make another hatch at the stern. The front hatches are hinged, behind them is the large access hatch with the lazarette (which also comes off, as do the other 2). The second lazarette has the REC sw under it, the lifts out, (the top of the also is removable, held by magnets and has spring contacts for the riding light). unplugs (JST plug) from the light circuit Behind that is the large engine hatch and then the 3rd lazarette which has the aux light sw under it. Both the life lines and the aerial are clipped on with springs and are removable. Large hatches are held down with toggles at each corner. Mast can be unbolted if needs be. Took a bit of work but seems to have done the job. John B

5 years ago by jbkiwi

Blog

40'' Seaplane Tender, new build R

Most of the motor electrics fitted (just rudder servo and lights to set up yet.) Sprayed a few coats of heavy acrylic undercoat on and sanded back. Will spray another coat or two before top coat. Weather was good for painting today, so set it up and sprayed it outside in the sun. Both motor covers are now glued to the bulkhead so the coamings come off as one piece as previously mentioned. Made a Mahogany door for the aft cabin and will probably do the same for the internal door from the . Faired the shaft tubes as well with some West System resin and filler powder.. Gets a bit more exciting when you can start painting. May give the coamings a spray yet, but need to make sure I don't need to correct anything. Ordered the grab rail stanchions from CMB, also another sound unit from Ali Express. I have dozens of coloured LEDs for the lights (miniature Xmas string lights) which I bought on an end of year sale which are perfect for nav and interior lights (just cut off what you need and solder on some leads). They seem to handle the voltage ok . The clear ones I usually paint dark yellow to get a more realistic colour, and power them with a small 2 AA battery compartment (which comes with the lights) which is wired to a remote switch. Haven't done a lot the past week as I've had a bad case of the plague and I'm just getting back into things.

5 years ago by jbkiwi

Blog

40'' Seaplane Tender, new build O

Finished making the floors (which are all removable) and the engine boxes. Finished closing in the rear of the cabin, (still to make the door) The engine boxes will be glued to the rear cabin and will come off with the cabin as one piece. Took a bit of mucking around to figure out how everything was going to come out easily but it's no fun if there's no challenge! Still have the internal to rear cabin door to make, and dash, wheel, masts, lights etc, plus I might look at making the fold up access/windows workable although it's just something else to break. I might set the rudders up then remove them ready for painting the hull. I have given the deck and coamings a good coat of dope (real aircraft stuff which I buy by the quart, much better than the watered down expensive stuff you buy from the hobby shops) to seal everything. As previously mentioned, the inside of the hull up to the chines will be resin coated.

5 years ago by jbkiwi

Response

Re: Fashion show!

Painted gloves and some additional weathered detail.. smock made and hung in the ...

5 years ago by GrahamP74

Blog

funnel mounts and deck hatches

Fitted the "legs" to the wheel house so now at correct height when on the deck. Funnel mounts done (just need to finish the funnels, workout what holes to drill and then mount the funnels to the mounts) so we added 2 hatches to each mount, painted white with brass hinges. the one placed between the Cowl vents is open, the one at the back is closed. as we only had "closed" hatches put a triangle shaped bit of plastic under the "open" hatch to prop open. When dry mounting the Cowl Vents found an issue with the rear vents as they are suppose to be higher than the and the ones i got where not, so found 2 wooden cotton reels the right height and turned then down to the correct width using the pillar drill as a lathe, painted them up and then placed the Cowl vents on those. also painted the "flat" vents chrome and stuck those to the mounts as well. to finish off these all we have to do is fit the breather pipes and ladder to funnels and fix the funnels to the mounts (allowing for the front funnel to have the hole for the smoke generator. Started work on the 2 deck hatches using 1mm plastic sheet. Made the 2 housings up and the planked and varnished them ready for the hatches. found out i had only enough hatches to do 1 housing, so drilled a 7mm hole in the hatch for a 10mm brass porthole, painted white with brass hinges. once dry stuck them on the housing ready to go. (ordered some more hatches to i can complete the other housing lol) one last thing was to start on the wheel box. Found in "The Works" in town a heart shaped box which was almost perfect for a mold for the thin wood that was steamed to shape and then held on the heart to fix the curve in place. next to do is to make up the front and back of the wheel boxes and stick the "curved" wood to that

5 years ago by barryskeates

Blog

end of week report LOL

good week this week, i should of said that there are 2 of us working on this Tug, myself and my father. this means that we are splitting the work up and as he is retired he can spend some more time on the boat than i can. so, (and i forgot to take the "before" photos) we have the and the platform it sits on (as the platform is held above the deck on a number of legs. plasticard and wood veneer outer cladding with a (removable) roof. going to put lighting in the table, telegraph, binnacle, map table and ships wheel. painted the 4 Cowl vents then we dry fitted (placed no glue) the various parts( wheel house, funnels, mounts) into place on the deck to see how it looks. finally painted the funnels yellow to match the Cowl vents still to do on the Funnel mounts is to paint and place the vents (flat vents), fit the Cowl vents, paint and fit the hatch covers (white hatches with bronze hinges) fit the pipework to the exterior of the funnels drill holes in the front mount for the steam generator funnel and finally mount the funnels to the mounts (so not too much just for those 2 bits)

5 years ago by barryskeates

Forum

What type of antenna is this?

The wire aerial running between the masts is what radio hams call an inverted L, it is tuned against the hull of the boat and the seawater and unlike a half wave dipole it only needs to be a quarter wave long, or less with a loading coil and an aerial tuning unit, often built into the transmitter. Common on many fishing boats in the days of the Trawler band, which is the frequency band a bit above medium wave. Trawler Band was also nicknamed FishFone.If you mean the loop aerial on the , that is a Radio Direction Finder Aerial which became very popular just after WW11. This information comes to you courtesy of my Radio Ham partner.

5 years ago by Nerys

Blog

Emily P III

This is another scratch build fishing boat. The hull is a models by design Cygnus GM33. 16th scale. This one will be a pure trawler. I am going for an aft this time! The prop shaft and rudder have been purchased but all other running gear will be shared with Emily P III.

6 years ago by GrahamP74

Blog

Hi All Cracking on with the and playing with the LED lights. I drop the lights from 4.5 to 3 volts which made them look a bit more yellowish. Canabus

5 years ago by canabus

Blog

Julieth 4 French fishing boat

Hi All As the owner of two Hellen fishing boats, I was looking for something with better access, but, about the same size. I found the French version of the Hellen. Larger hatch and a raised section forward of the . Also this is my first strip planked boat, I picked up an IKEA wooden blind for $5au with a 100 strips of 3mm by 25mm and 1100mm long. Canabus

6 years ago by canabus

Response

HMS BRAVE BORDERER

Hi I am working on a Precedent Perkasa 37" and I added two sets of double 10mm magnets to the front of the and one set at the stern. I can lift the whole boat with battery by the . I do not think it's going to come off !!! Canabus

5 years ago by canabus

Blog

Vanishing

Hi All Hot weather, so two coats of sealer and two coats of matt vanish. Deck finished and onto the . Canabus

5 years ago by canabus

Media

RMAS JOYCE A193

This is one of the limited edition Sirmar kits that was produce in the early 1990’s.this model was made by a friend of mine who’s a dockyard fitter and turner it was made about twenty eight years ago. Based on a tug that I worked on in and around Portsmouth harbour. This model has a working voith unit opening engine room skylights. Working lights, removable deck hatch to get at the unit like the real boat, the superstructure and gun whales are made from plasticard. The fender was made by a friend to the same type as used on the tug. The is copied like for like. The towing hook is copied from photos and slips like the real one. in all my years I haven’t seen another one like this . Sirmar made twenty numbered hulls as kits .

5 years ago by Nutbourne

Response

New

I did the drawings myself based off some local boats and then scaled to 16th. I use craft board which is easy to cut and stick and bend.

5 years ago by GrahamP74

Response

New

weary nice ! is it made by freehand or by draving ?👍

5 years ago by jugge

Directory

(Tug Boat) Wilhelm G

Scratch built 'freelance' tug carved from a solid 12''x 12''x 45" block of driftwood in the 70s was ply. Motor controlled by a set of car points for on/off. Had 2 different cabin styles and rails in its life. Had lights. Radio was Futaba 'brown box'on 27mhz. (Motor: 540) (5/10)

5 years ago by jbkiwi

Directory

(Tug Boat) Titan

Built this in the 80s. Carved from a block of foam and fiberglassed (hull and deck). was ply, everything scratch built to own design. Had 540 motor with a set of car points for on /off. had lights that could be switched on by deck switch. Radio was Futaba 'brown box' on 27mhz. (Motor: 540) (ESC: none) (5/10)

5 years ago by jbkiwi

Media

ST 200

This model of Seaplane Tender 200 is another "loft rescue" that I have been asked to refurbish by its owner. This is a static model and along with his other models and mine we exhibit them at museum events to remind and educate people that the RAF used to have a Marine Branch for 68 years until its demise in 1986. Seaplane Tender 200 was the lead craft of the 200 Class Seaplane Tenders designed by Hubert Scott-Paine in the early 1930's. The L.o.a was 37ft 6in, beam 8ft 6in and draught 2ft 6in. powered by 2 x Meadows 828 100hp petrol engines with a range of 100miles. Now before the purists come along and say that the 200 class ST had enclosed not not an open backed one, ST 200 was the only one that was built that way the rest of the class had enclosed and walk through cabin. this model is 1:24 scale and is probably about 25 years old

6 years ago by colindavies

Blog

The navigation light.

This is a small item but very visible on the and since the standard for this item has been set I have to follow suit. So first of all get some 3mm blue LEDs ordered and then it’s on with preparing the white metal body. I used by hand as suggested a series of drills increasing in diameter until 3.1 dia was reached but only 2/3 down the length from the front the smaller hole (1.5mm) was bored right through for the wires to exit. Arrival of the LEDs, first check the LED using my power supply, just over 3 volts seems to illuminate to the correct level. Next was to remove the shoulder on its plastic casing so the whole body does not exceed 3mm over its length and lightly abrade the outside to give a diffused light. Next cut the LED legs to 2mm from the plastic casing noting which is positive, next prepare the wires. I used Futaba servo wire cable 22awg which is very flexible and with the white signal wire stripped off leaving a red and black wire. These were tinned and cropped to 2mm and then quickly soldered to the appropriate terminal. Next check the LED still works! first hurdle over, I now needed to check the that when the LED goes into the body it doesn’t short out so checking the diameter over the widest part which is over the soldered terminals this was 0.1 below 3mm. I decided that shrink sleeve was too thick so I mixed some epoxy resin and coated all around the terminals, this proved to be satisfactory in both non-conductivity and dimensionally. Now the final test, using some aliphatic wood glue I slid the LED into the body whilst it was illuminated as it was a tight push fit, bingo it’s still lit – leave to set. I used aliphatic glue, as it would be easier to remove should I ever have to change the LED. The body still needs painting white but this will be done with all the other fittings at a later stage.

6 years ago by mturpin013

Blog

Our Ben Fishing Boat

I have purchased a fishing boat as part of a boat bundle on ebay, it looks like a Cygnus DS25 hull. I intend to remove the deck that has been fitted very high, change the and make it into a small netting boat on a 16th scale. The name is for my Nephew who has enjoyed watching me make my other models and loves coming to the lake with me. This way he can have a boat of his own!

6 years ago by GrahamP74

Forum

34'' RAF Crash Tender Windows

Here's a view from inside the . Cheers Colin.

6 years ago by Colin H

Forum

34'' RAF Crash Tender Windows

Mike, it's very easy to make your own frames from 60 thou. Plastikard. I used a piercing saw and Swiss files, then cut Perspex to fit inside the frames, sealed with Canopy glue. You don't need frames for anything but the windows. The others have a small gutter just above the window, which is easily made from brass wire and glued on once bent to shape. Glaze the windows like the others, with tightly cut Perspex glued in. Cheers, Martin

6 years ago by Westquay

Forum

LED Tug Mast Navigation Lights

Hi Pete, welcome back😊 Glad your eyeballs have cleared up 👍 Just ordered new goggles yesterday, should be here end of the month, then I can fiddle with 1mm LEDs again - maybe😉 No, I didn't put a plug and socket at the base of the mast. I hard wired it into connections in the roof. Then took all the wires down through the funnels until they poked out the bottom of the main cabin. That's it for now. The mast is not glued in, it's a tight push fit so can still be folded down a bit. Later I'll make the little distribution board and put the plug and socket there so I can still remove the whole superstructure for maintenance. No again, I haven't done any more on the Southampton yet. Been busy fiddling with my fish cutter Gina 2, hull preparation and preliminary coat of white paint, and cleaning up Colin's vintage Taycol field coil motor. See Electrical Blogs 'Taycol Supermarine'. Cheers, Doug 😎

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Blog

Cygnus GM32

My latest project, Cygnus GM32. Going to be a fwd , other detail not decided yet! Any one have any build detail of running gear used successfully on other boats? I've made a Skeg and rudder and fitted a 65mm prop direct to a 700 size 5000rpm motor which draws 14amps in water. Any suggestions on esc would be welcome other than the screaming mtroniks I have now!

6 years ago by Bucaneer16

Directory

(Working Vessel) Cygnus GM32

Work in progress, would welcome any information on Cygnus GM32 builds. Have motor and rudder installed, now onto gunwales, deck and fwd . (Motor: 700) (ESC: Undecided) (8/10)

6 years ago by Bucaneer16

Response

W1

Thanks for the kind comments. Planking did take a couple of days but was not done all that neatly (just clamp and cyno) as I was glassing it later - it was all thin resin coated inside to seal it). Planking was just a hint at the original so you could just make out the planks through the glass. Have included a few more pics of the motors and interior which is not that flash but is unseen, (more for the fact that I had seen the original and was sort of putting down what I remembered from when I was 15) There is a small picture at the top left of the stairs which on the original, was a Photo from an HSL looking off the Stbd rear 1/4, to 2 64ft HSLs side by side climbing over its wake at speed The stair set is the original from the to wardroom, which has been kept and used again by the present owner (down to utility room in front of engine room) and still has the original 'POWER BOAT' rubber treads (not bad nick for 79yrs old!)

6 years ago by jbkiwi

Media

ASR 64ft R/C VID 2

Boat is Scratch built 36" British Power Boat 64ft High Speed ASR Launch which belonged to the RNZAF. The launch was one of the 22 built and was shipped to NZ in 1940. it was the only one of its type in the Southern Hemisphere. Model has twin motors, ESCs, sound units etc. Has remotely switched water pump for water cooled brushless 2000kv in runner motors and remotely switched lighting. Uses 2x 2200mah 2s LiPos for drive and 1 1800mah LiPo for the pump (also a separate battery for the LED lights. Boat is built with strip planked balsa on ply frame and fiber glassed. Deck is ply, is varnished balsa. The colour is as it was for most of its time in the RNZAF . Took about 5 years on and off to build and finished it last year. (please ignore the time date - can't get rid of it .

6 years ago by jbkiwi

Forum

LED Tug Mast Navigation Lights

Evenin Pete, Here's link to a Harbour tug site with more pics, including work deck and inside the . Cheers, Doug 😎 http://www.danwalker.co.uk/Harbour_Tug_html/tuginfo.html

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Forum

LED Tug Mast Navigation Lights

Hi Pete, Thanks 😊 Yep, I decided to stick with 4 lights cos tha's all I see on the original 'WYEFORCE'. Yep again! I do intend to modify the two lights on the stub mast; 1 yellow 'Towing' and 1 white 'Stern'. I will also fit a light. Decided to do it 'fluorescent' style by fitting 2 white 3mm LEDs in the ends of a long block of 5mm perspex. After that the 2 work-deck floodlights, lower cabin lights and 2 deck lamps 1 each side of the main cabin. I'll probably link the cabin and deck lights so that they all come on together. Now pondering how to build a miniature working diesel genny to power them all😁 Good luck with your divider! You will have more wires to squash in than I did so I doubt there's room. Have fun trying. I separated the wires quite easily by keeping all the negative legs of the LEDs (that's the leg going to the larger electrode in the diode) on one side and soldering them to the brass wire negative rail first. Then I took colour coded thin 'hook-up' wire to each LED in turn; working from the top down. Cut the LED leg to 1/4", stripped the hook-up wire back 1/4", twisted the wire strands together and tinned it. Tin the LED leg as well and bend it 90° down the mast. Then it's easy to solder the wire cleanly to the LED keeping it well away from any other wires. When all was connected, and tested OK, I stuck the wires down with thick gel super glue so they can't wander about. To fit the LEDs to the mast, I removed the brackets; removed the dummy lights with a razor saw, filed the mounting flat and drilled holes for the LED legs in them, using a 0.75mm drill bit in a pin chuck, and glued the LEDs on with gluper sue. Then I bent the leads 90° back towards the mast and drilled 0.75mm holes horizontally into the mast so I could literally 'plug' the lamp bracket complete with LED straight in and glue it down. Painted matt black the leads become invisible, as in 3rd pic above😉 Winch: at least your version of the model seems to HAVE a winch! Or where did those two pics come from? Mine ain't got nuffink, just a big 'ole at the back of the cabin😭 All the best, Doug 😎

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Forum

LED Tug Mast Navigation Lights

Mornin' Pete (it is in Germany anyway!) I agree, there are lots of details and 'standard equipment' missing from the basic model. You can see the winch and Life Raft canister in one of the photos of the original I posted above. Re Mast wiring; don't fiddle about putting a divider in the mast. it'll just get in the way. Attached is a pic of my modified mast. I used a 0.5mm brass wire on the right-hand side for the earth return. Wire is better than rod cos it's flexible (can be pushed into the corner). I glued it in with gel Gluper Sue WHEN all connections were soldered and tested. The LEDs are standard domed lens types. I ground the tops flat and painted the tops with several coats of matt black until it was opaque. After testing I closed off the mast with some plasticard and fitted ladder rungs made of copper wire. I also added the missing antenna cables to the bottom of the VHF IMM antennas, 0.5mm brass wire. (Some time I'll also fit the missing GPS antenna and anemometer.) Then painted the mast matt black. I then turned my attention to the searchlight and red/green NAV lights. First I stripped the roof and painted it white as in the original. On my model it was grey🤔 Then I drilled out the searchlight to accept a 5mm Bright White LED. You won't have to do this cos you have a later version with lights, mine had none 😭 Then had to paint the searchlight with several coats of matt black. Otherwise it just glowed all round! Pics show construction stages and finished lighting effect. All wires inside the roof I super glued to the ceiling and ran them down inside the funnels (stacks to you guys across the pond!😉) ready for connection to a switch board in the hull. While I was at it I rubbed the false Southampton name off the cabin using a 1000 grit Tamiya sponge and am preparing inkjet printed decals with the correct Wyeforce name and logo. Have fun getting all lit up Pete,😁 Cheers, Doug 😎 PS Attached some pics showing the original 'Southampton' 😉 and making obvious what's missing on the model 🤔

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Forum

Martin's Taycol Conversion Boards

Howdy Ed, Yep, will do. Have taken some pics along the way. Mast lights and searchlight are working. Red/Green Nav lights fitted (had to spray the roof the right colour first - white not grey!) but not wired up yet. About to do that now. After that the two aft facing Towing lights and deck flood lights. Also discovered that there should be two deck lights P&S of the main cabin😉 Will need the miniscule chip LEDs for those - Now, where did I put my microscope🤓🤔 In fact while researching I found there's a whole list of 'bits' missing. Not least the Life Raft, which should be behind the !!😲 (In God we trust - But just in case we want a Life Raft 😁) Have also started drafting new decals with the correct owner's logo and fonts. The wiring is only a lash up at the moment to check that everything works. As soon as I'm happy, with resistors an' all, I'll fit some mini connectors. More soon, (in a different thread cos this will bore the pants off Martin. A NO Lights Man!) That reminds me of a banner I once saw above the RAF Controllers at the London Air Traffic Control Centre. "RAF controllers do it in the dark" 😲😉 The civil side was brightly lit, other side of the wall the RAF guys had minimal desk lighting only. Cheers, Doug 😎

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Blog

nearing completion!

So, I have managed to crack on quite a bit this week. Ive done a heap at work on nights this week, followed by near enough a whole weekend of no interuptions as the "long haired Segeant Major" has been at her parents for the weekend!😁 it took a couple of days to build the coxswains console out of balsa and alot of fettling with plastitube and sheet, very please with the outcome. its not 100% scale acurate as is the rest of the model, but close enough to give a good representation of the contents. Just the Coxswain and seat to build and paint for a completed . The rest of the weekend has seen the cockpit just about finished, painted and laquered. So, to complete the model the following items need to be built, painted and fitted. Radar mount and radar, instrument dials, cockpit glazing, antenna mast and rigging, towing bitt, rear cockpit railing and winch, hull grab ropes, anchor, and finally about 2 kilos of lead ballast to get her sitting right on the water. I reckon another week to 10 days for a completed model!

6 years ago by Skydive130

Response

Devils in the detail

The is really coming together.Nice job.Will look great when finished.

6 years ago by Donnieboy

Blog

Devils in the detail

after another week of work and in-laws visiting, ive managed to get a couple of days of detailing work done on the structure. The local model shop parted with several bits of plasticard, plastic rods and strips of various sizes after I parted with a few quid! after alot of photo studying, I have made a fair start on adding all the detail inside the wheel house. its not a 100% acurate, but at this scale and once painted it should show a fair representation of the Waveney class . There is still quite a bit of detailing to go, before I remove the major components for detail painting. Ive started to build the seat for the Coxswain. There is also alot of roof detailing to go, but all in good time!

6 years ago by Skydive130

Forum

Spektrum, new, useless...

Yep, he done good, did the Naval man in Munchen. I'm in his debt and if I use the TX to fly I promise I'll insure myself, but I ain't joinin' a club unless the local one is as cheap as someone recently suggested. And the only decal on my wings will be the SMAE, if I have to hand paint it! Now...back to boats. Tis my birthday and my dear bride bought me a set of the old Yeoman white metal fittings for my Crash Tender, so now the kids have departed I will have a wee clean up of them. Then, a Chicken Achar from the new indian restaurant. A bonus is that she also bought me a pack of 20 beautifully made turned brass portholes, glazed, that I've just realised will fit the Crash Tender . Result...I HATE glazing portholes. I did 9 on a scratchbuilt canal boat and it drove me nuts. 4 down, 16 to put back in storage, the last of Modelling Timbers' stock of them and the manufacturer no longer does em. Martin

6 years ago by Westquay

Forum

Vinyl lettering

With the demise of Barry's Model Lettering, where can one get lettering for RNLI lifeboats? Whilst BECC do the Bliss Yellow for the stern lettering and also the Bliss shadow to make up name plates their lettering packs are still in the old font of Arial and for the bow and roof legend it needs to be in Bliss Bold. Any ideas. I have contacted Dawson signs and Stickylettering but neither can/will do in Bliss font.

6 years ago by Manofkent

Response

54 year old Crash Tender

If you need any ideas for the working bits, let me know. I can't help with the lecktricks, but they didn't call me "Mekanist" at Wolfsburg for nuttn! Well little Lothar always did anyway. I've just tapped the tiller 2mm...because that's what I have!, so a flat was filed on the rudder shaft, so I don't have to tighten it too much. I ended work today on the CT by making window frames for the . Don't know why everyone makes them for the cabins too...they don't have 'em, just gutters, so I made them too from brass wire. Just watered the plants, so the cumfy chair beckons.

6 years ago by Westquay

Response

54 year old Crash Tender

Ah, old car days, eh? Nothing phased us. Can't touch them now. No idea what it all is under that plastic cover. Spookilly, I've just done a pattern in 1/32nd scale for a Maranello GTO1964. One of my favourite cars messed over by Maranello for Le Mans. Your fish cutter seems to be throwing some problems up, but nuttn' a spot of resin can't fix. I don't buy that propellor blade rumour. We have no decent pics of the thing, but you can clearly enough see there aint no twist in the legs like a prop would have. I've just made mine in brass and simply flattened the tube in the vice to get a similar section and soldered to other tubes. All I have to do is make rings and attach the blocks for the ensign ropes. Also cut and attached the toe strips either side of the decks in Venetian blind slat, some leftovers from decking the Vanity cutter model. Now I need to cut some mahogany and attach to the side of the decks as the rubbing strake. Finaly will be making gutters for the smaller windows (NO frames there) and frames for the windows, then I can paint it. I have decided on white roofs after a peer at the good photos again, where the vents all seem to be white. But non-slip was clearly a pain to clean as the roofs and decks are bloody filthy! Vincent's having a break for a while. Call it my annual leave, which I never normally have. Cheers, Martin

6 years ago by Westquay

Response

54 year old Crash Tender

Purple and black?? Jeez. Was that hand painted, Doug? Strombergs are indeed good carbs. I've had many, being a Triumph man for many years. Just make sure there ain't no pin prick holes in the diaphragms, or the one in the breather pot in between. I know a tuner man who swears that Strombergs are good for 150 BHP, before you need to consider the incredibly fussy Webers. Crash tender now fully filled and rubbed down . Now about to glue on those half round edges. My Dad had meticulously flushed the edges when he built it! Then the dummy window slider frames on the rear windows and some dummy frames for the doors. I think that'll keep me busy for the rest of the day and then I'd better get on with the Vincent Black shadow pattern I've been on for months! Cheers, Martin

6 years ago by Westquay

Blog

54 year old Crash Tender

I would like first to say that this is NOT a restoration. It has always been mine and followed me around all those years, been used extensively on Oyster beds on the Essex coast and Valentine's Park in Ilford, Essex...even the great Victoria Park, of which my Granddad was a founder member. It has eaten its way through lantern batteries out of number which my Dad, who was in the business could magic from thin air. There was always a nook in the boot of the Triumph Town and Country saloon and then the Austin Westminster for another new lantern battery, which the Taycol would destroy in about 20 intermittent minutes of left, centre, right, centre from the REP single channel gear. How I wish I still had that, but it was stolen. The REP, that is, the Taycol remains, restored and cleaned and like new again waiting to go back in the boat. I finally decided I should finish it. My wife bought me a set of white metal fittings by Yeoman out of IP Engineering, so I have no excuse. Not that I need one. It has suffered a bit over that half a century, losing odd panels, but they are easily remade and replaced. First, I had to clean out the insides of the detritus and loft life of decades. Vacuuming, scraping with a pointy thing and brushing with a stiff brush, followed by more vacuuming using a clever attachment that my dear wife thought might be useful and it was, being at least a dozen stiff, but small diameter tubes poking out of the end of a nozzle. It both pokes and nudges the old dirt and dust and sucks it away. After that the old thin mahogany deck planks, my friend thought to add in the late 60s were removed and saved where salvageable as I quite like them for trim on other boats. The deck was rather brutalised with a coarse rasp and any loose nails punched back in flush or slightly below. Then some way too old, but still good, epoxy (WEST) was used to slar all over the decks and most of the insides, even some of the cabin sides. That will be finished before dark today. I can hardly believe the epoxy still works, but it does, perfectly and so is pressed into use. In this warm weather it set very quickly. I did my usual trick of squeegeeing it on into the grain with an old credit card or Gummi, which is a sample block of silicon. Styrene will also do. I use some spare 2mm stuff I was given (that guy at IP Engineering again). The roofs had already been corrected the other evening and heavily cellulose sanding sealed. The forward cabin removeable roof was unwarped by having a tight fitting diagonal piece of pear pressed in under the top skin and glued. The new hatch on that roof was made and the shape of the roof and hatch runners changed slightly, as per drawings from this site. Here are pics. of the work today. The above resinning, the remade cabin panels a new bulkhead and the tow hook base panel, finally a new aft cockpit rear coaming which it never had but should have. Cheers, Martin

6 years ago by Westquay

Forum

Fire Float info.

Thanks, Colin. I figured if it was a folding mast, why does the picture of one in the up position show it in front of the ? When the thing that's laying down would only erect on top of the . Would that light colour be a typical off white of the period? Martin

6 years ago by Westquay

Response

amd bridge

Hi Alan Thanks Fred

6 years ago by Fred

Response

amd bridge

Yes, PM is OK Fred

6 years ago by AlanP

Response

amd bridge

Hi Alan Good to see you back, I like your use of plastic card covered in wood to build the , it must've made it more easy to glue the corners than to try making it all out of wood. can I P/M you later as I could do with some help with regard to fitting the motors. Fred

6 years ago by Fred

Blog

amd bridge

I don't have any photo's of the building of this, so I will try to explain. I cut all the pieces for the out of 1mm plasticard, the pieces were then fitted together with masking tape to make sure that they all fitted neatly together. The windows were then cut out of Perspex and their positions marked and put aside. The floor of the was planked along with the rear wall, the five side pieces were then wooded (for want of a better word) light oak for the frames with teak for the infills, the windows were checked to make sure they still fitted. The whole lot was fitted together with masking tape and glue run down the seams with a small brush. After drying the outside of the was wooded 😁 over lapping the windows by a couple of thou, the windows were glued in place with canopy glue. Aft of the are the battery boxes, these were made out of plasticard with doors made out of wood, kiss buttons used for the door knobs. Two sliding doors were made out of wood, small plastic channel for the runners. The bridge was made using the same principal as the boat deck.

6 years ago by AlanP

Response

Final fitting of cabin roof skins

RC roof!? What for? No equivalent in the original, not like a Rhine Schiff with retractable . Unless maybe to 'doff the roof' to the ladies 😉 A sort of Nautical 'Hat's off' 😁

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Blog

Quick mock up!

Got the main deck beams fitted today and the servo holder. Offered up the and gantry which have been made during the winter to see how they look! Pretty happy with so far!

6 years ago by GrahamP74

Response

Main Cabin Doors!

No Stern Light? No lights in the Greenhouse (Oops😲) I mean ? Do you happen to know if the LEDs are 'standard' or Extra Bright (High Power) ? is there a Type number on the package? If not don't worry, I'll use 'safe average' values. 👍 More soon. Cheers Doug 😎

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Media

wyeforce 2

One month on, new photos showing progress made to date lower superstructure and made motors,props,shafts and Korts fitted in hull. see you next month.

6 years ago by dragon