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    Kort Nozzles and Becker Rudders!
    Kort Nozzles supports were easy to assemble! It about 6 pieces of formed ply! Just had to glue them together! Set aside to dry! Oh, I didn't have
    wood sealer
    . So. I used thin Cyano to seal the wood! I'm sure others may disagree. With that technique! But, It's just temporary. Until I can order some Ezecoat! Recommended by RNinMunich "Doug"! After working on the Becker Rudders. For a day and a haft! I am finally finished with assembling them! They should completely dry by Saturday morning! Surprisingly, they do work! But, I feel that the brass ones will be better! Tomorrow Saturday, I will be laying the deck! As after working with the becker rudders. I found I can disassemble them when needed! But, may have to glue them in place. After, I receive the brass ones!
    1 month ago by figtree7nts
    Re: Steampunk Pike.
    As you wish Red. But if you're serious about building Memo's Nautilus you ain't gonna find more info and advice than on that disc. And that straight from the Disney horse's mouth. Confusing is that sometimes they mention DVD and sometimes CD!? Happy trawling the Net, I did too, but didn't find a more comprehensive collection of info and data than that. Lots of vague plans, but then what? Material: "Wood seems an odd material to make a submarine from - so where do you go from there..........." My U25 hull is made from four 3cm planks of wood. Lots of carving and checking with templates and swearing. Then
    wood sealer
    , more sanding ๐Ÿค” primer, three coats of resin based RAL 7035 paint. Brush quick or your brush will stick to the hull๐Ÿ˜ญ Later spraying upper and lower hull with appropriate Revell enamels, light grey and mid/dark grey respectively. No ingress of water or other damage incurred over the last 25 or so years.๐Ÿ˜Š Advantage is better thermal insulation from the cold water surrounding the hull than with thin plastic. "plastic does not like the "African" sun much"! For several days now we have had temperatures of 35 to 40ยฐC, new record for Germany in June was set yesterdayโ˜€๏ธ. Expected to climb further to a new record peak on Sunday!๐Ÿ˜Ž I note that today, and the foreseeable/forecast-able future Cape has temperatures of around 13 to 15ยฐC. I remember being in Jo'burg/Pretoria some years ago towards the end of November. We went to the Zoo with temperature around 35ยฐC and while refreshing ourselves sitting outside the cafe there were astounded to to witness the arrival of a class of young school kids and a Father Christmas wearing the full red arctic outfit with hat and beard. I started melting just looking at him ๐Ÿ˜‚ During my time in Cape Town and Simonstown, also shortly before Christmas, the temperatures were a very comfortable 25 to 30ยฐC. Where are you? Of course various plastics deform at various temperatures, so 'Taste and Try Before You Buy'. (With thanks to Savoy Brown - see attached Utube clip๐Ÿ˜‰) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SNyzrOM5RR4 Check the specs of the type of plastic you are considering buying for your build. Some are specially developed I believe for minimal deformation at higher temperatures. BTW: Joburgsailor seems to do all right with the materials he uses under the African sun๐Ÿ‘ See his blogs and post on this site about his magnificent MEKO frigate. (A ship class I also worked on for other countries!) Whatever floats your boat Red ๐Ÿ˜Š have fun doing it, that's what it's all really about! Cheers, Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž BTW; wish we had your grocery prices here๐Ÿค” 85US$ = about โ‚ฌ75. Which is around 20 or 15% of my monthly grocery bill of around โ‚ฌ400-500!
    5 months ago by RNinMunich
    Re: Veronica build. London sailing barge
    Hi Ken, First I would sand to shape more so you won't need so much filler. If the filler is too thick it may be more prone to rattling out with knocks and vibration. When I did the 'orrible 'ull on the fish cutter I inherited I first sanded to shape as close as I could. I had already beefed up the hull by applying FG tissue and Ezekote on the inside, just in case it might fall apart on removing the 1/16" or so of ancient oil based paints.๐Ÿ˜ฎ When happy with the form I applied
    wood sealer
    . THEN filler, then Ezekote resin AFTER the filler was fully hardened and sanded back. This ensures that the filler is fully sealed in and the hull watertight. If you apply the filler over the resin it may be more prone to 'coming unstuck' ๐Ÿ˜ญ Here my Blog so far on the cutter restoration and conversion from static to RC. https://model-boats.com/blogs/43305#43307 Pics attached show what I had to start with ๐Ÿค” Current status and how I got there in the Blog. Happy filling, cheers, Doug๐Ÿ˜Ž
    7 months ago by RNinMunich

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