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Hello to Rick and Peejay, Rick this bit is for you, Good to hear you have a steam engine fitted, and are contemplating a bench run to see how long it will run on a boiler full of water. it will bench run longer than on the water as the engine has no loading, I would recommend you fit a gas cut off valve to be on the safe side. I once years ago ran out of water and had to watch the boiler turn its wooden lagging to charcoal. No major damage was done but it did smell a bit for some time. Peejay may I suggest that you Google the likes of Microcosm and other Chinese manufacturers of model steam engines, there is an awful lot out there you will be surprised, try for a twin double acting side valve as they are very efficient, and will run on only 20 - 30 PSI, plus a 1/2" bore twin cylinder will easily power a one metre length hull. Regards to you both, Gary.
1 year ago by GaryLC
(Yacht) DMI 'Pirat''
Classic modell, in the 70's sold under the name DMI pirat. a full wooden sailboat without RC controls.
the keel was extended to improve stability.
In the 90's the wooden strips from the hull were so dried out, that I had to fill it complete with epoxy and sprayed the uniform 'baby blue'color.
After a long period in the attic , it saw daylight again and the sails needed to be replaced.
Now it is a static model with sailing capacities. (7/10)
1 year ago by Smaragd
HMS BRAVE BORDERER
Yes also, I would love to see pictures. Very interested . I even went as far as fitting small wooden wedges on the rear of the under side corners of the hull. that was all trial and error from other modelers suggestions on the pond side. Prop swaps and all sorts.
1 year ago by BOATSHED
Older Billings Models
I have a Zwart Zee tug kit wooden, complete with all boxed brass fitings ,untouched,got it off an old workmate for a tenner years ago when he gave up modeling.its sat in the loft for years as life and other projects took priority.
1 year ago by Ray
Older Billings Models
That is a BB Samson II, using the same ABS hull as Sea Star and Polar and as you state from the late 80's- beginning of the 90's.
DMI and BB were competitors in the 60-80's and the
names are often mixed up, between them. This at least in Denmark.
1 year ago by Tica
I have acquired an old 50cm
boat which requires a vintage style electric outboard motor. I am finding sourcing a motor very difficult. I would welcome advice. I am willing to take a second hand motor if anyone has one.
1 year ago by BigChris
Pretend deck planking
What went wrong? 😲
1. Drawing on deck planking, i.e. on a veneer or thin ply-
Why/how did it go wrong?
Surely since the planks are all 'parallel curves' all you need to do is make a curve template in plasticard from the plan. Then at a few strategic points along the plank length mark the widths of the planks.
Set the template along these points and 'Bob's yer Uncle - Fanny's yer Aunt' 😉
Mind you; doing it that way the 'curious grain of the planks' would betray the fiddle🤔
2. 'what type of strip wood -
Any very close grained type.
3. How to glue it!? Any thin, spreadable waterproof wood glue!
4. Gap? Max 0.5mm perhaps. Ca 10 to 1 ratio.
5. 'How do you secure the bent planks whilst the glue dries?
Modelling pins at strategic points along the plank.
Assumes planks are pre-shaped by steaming!! See 6. 😉
6. 'Do I need to steam the planks? - YES!
As mentioned above; make a template defining the curve required.
From this make a jig of ca 5mm x 10mm in which you can set the steamed planks to cool and set to the shape required.
To allow for the so called 'spring back' make the jig with a slightly sharper curve than the actual deck curve. When fitting the planks to the deck it's easier to 'push them out' than to try to increase the curvature.
Finally; mark on the deck base the plank widths at strategic points along the plank length as alignment points. Glue planks alternately left/right (OK port/starboard😉) using modelling pins to hold in place until the glue is fully cured. For the 'gaps' There are various solutions in Build Blogs on this site. One that I like is the use of thin black card.
When the whole deck is planked and properly cured sand lightly (ca 240 grit).
7. 'weathered teak' there are various suppliers of teak stain and also deck weathering stains; e.g. Jotika stain, Lifecolor Washes for Hulls and Wooden Decks, set part no. LP04, which includes Wooden deck darkener and Shadower, amongst other useful weathering pigments.
Google Lifecolor and you'll surely find some UK distributors.
Enough answers for enough questions!? 😁
Hope this provides some inspiration, Cheers, Doug 😎
1 year ago by RNinMunich
Scratch built yacht.
I am thinking of building a new sailing yacht from plans which I have yet to acquire. I have 8 A4 pages of drawings of a Goth-USOM from Frank Russell 2014, not sure where I got them from and if they are worthy of the time and effort.
The size is about right at 1000mm length and about 1500mm deck to masthead. I have had dealings with Nylet in the past and am sure they would be helpful for rigging, sails etc. I plan to plank build the hull onto wooden bulkheads.
Although I have built several model boat hulls using this method before I wonder if I could enlist some help or recommendations from any other members of this group ie choice of plans, how to do it books.
Many thanks Chris G
2 years ago by ChrisG
A Tragic Tale Unfolds
About a month ago I came across a
of a Side Trawler by the name of ‘Maartje’ dating from what I assume was the Sixties. It is 84 cm long (33 inches) with a beam of 19cm (7.75 inches).
The then owner had found it in a poor state and had reconstructed and painted to a large degree, but then turned to model trains.
It was not known whether it was a ‘kit’ or ‘scratch’ built but he had however found it was a model of a boat, UK 223, lost with all hands in the North Sea off Texel (NL) in 1967 thought to be registered in Diss UK..
I am aware that such a tragedy is not uncommon with sea fishermen but I had never come across a model of such a boat.
I had some time on my hands so I started to make enquiries and I was surprised how helpful people were. I had contacted the Dutch Embassy in UK, the Press Association in Netherlands and the Texel Tourist Information Centre.
Within a very short time I had responses not just from those sources but also from others they had contacted. A major response was from the Embassy with the names of the crew of five, some were never recovered and important, was information from the Harbour Master of the Port of Urk, Netherlands confirming the boat was registered there and who then contacted the son of the captain of the ‘Maartje’ and gave him my contact details.
I am pleased to say the captain’s son Jauwk contacted me and we are now in frequent communication.
So we now know the date of the loss, the sea area, weather conditions names of the crew and results of the enquiry.
Also very personal and emotional information including the fact that two of the crew were father and son and that the captain’s wife was carrying his son, Jauwk at the time of the loss.
You never know what this hobby may lead you into.
2 years ago by NPJ
Rather than a model of a rope making machine, Doug, this is a machine for making model rope. Always wanted one, in case I ever make that marvellous wooden ship model.
2 years ago by Westquay
I'd confirm what Ron says above. A slight warp, like yours, is paradoxically harder to shift than a biggy. I had a terrible warp in an old hull, but after making diagonal strutting and regluing the skins to a point a bit MORE than the warp in reverse, it sprung back to a perfect shape, but that roof is slight and so steam is the way. You can also use hat water or even just water, but, as Ron says, you'll need to twist it in the opposite direction and keep it there. A cheap and cheerful wooden frame is the answer, then either steam or dunk the whole lot in your garden (or somebody else's ) water butt. That's how I put the sheer AND deck camber on the 1.6mm decks of my yacht model. Worked a treat. left them to soak for half an hour and then dry on a hot sunny day, naturally. I now have a flat ply deck which has the curve of the sheer AND the athwartships camber all at once.
I also notice that the framework under the roof sheet isn't complete. if you were to complete that while holding the roof in an unwarped position, glue up and let it set hard you could also find it will straighten up.
Failing all this, making a brand new one from a bit of 1.5mm ply and some 3mm for a frame will be just as quick.
Ah, it's our pirate friend. Hello Bryan. Hadn't twigged it was your Seaplane Tender! it deserves repair rather than replacement, I reckon.
2 years ago by Westquay
Command Boat 90
Scratch built at 12th scale from pictures and profiles of the internet. The boat was originally built in Sweden a class of fast military assault craft originally developed for the Swedish Navy by Dockstavarvet
Speed: 40 knots (74 km/h) Draught: 0.8 m (2 ft 7 in) Length: 15.9 m (52 ft) Overall; 14.9 (48')
Complement: 3 (two officers and one engineer); Up to 21 amphibious troops with full equipment Armament: 3 × Browning M2HB machine guns; 1 × Mk 19 grenade launcher; 4 naval mines or 6 depth charges .
I was attracted to this boat due to its great performance and maneuverability, this was mainly due to the use of twin water jets as the main propulsion, this is a trade off with efficiency.
So my start point was to collect as much information as possible about the boat this involved collecting pictures and profiles of the craft from various sources.
Eventually I found some plans of sort :-
My Dad was a boat builder in the days of wooden yachts, and had showed me how to make plans and frames from a line drawing. I went about this first by creating a prototype about 24 in long out of light ply. I then created full size plans of the model to be made.
Pictures of small prototype finally painted plain green.
The Main model
Used my computer to print out the frames onto paper, cut them out and used them as templates for the ply ribs.
The construction was simple chine style, with 1.5 mm ply.
I tried to build jet drives but failed to produce a effective unit.
So reverted to propshafts which worked out well with better control and the boat can spin on it own axis by putting one engine in reverse the other in forward and adjusting the twin rudders.
That it for now, hope it was of some interest
2 years ago by CB90
PT 109 was one of the hundreds of motor torpedo boats (PT) of the PT 103 class completed between 1942 and 1945 by Elco Naval Division of Electric Boat Company at Bayonne, New Jersey. The Elco boats were the largest in size of the three types of PT boats built for U.S. use during World War II. Wooden-hulled, 80 feet long with a 20-foot, 8-inch beam, the Elco PT boats had three 12-cylinder Packard gasoline engines generating a total of 4,500 horsepower for a designed speed of 41 knots. With accommodations for 3 officers and 14 men, the crew varied from 12 to 14. its full-load displacement was 56 tons. Early Elco boats had two 20mm guns, four .50-caliber machine guns, and two or four 21-inch torpedo tubes. Some of them carried depth charges or mine racks. Later boats mounted one 40mm gun and four torpedo launching racks. Many boats received ad-hoc refits at advanced bases, mounting such light guns as Army Air Forces 37mm aircraft guns and even Japanese 23mm guns. Some PTs later received rocket launchers.
This Proboat PT 109 model was brought in 2013 for £100 these boats are rare now, This one had a few faults with the propshafts they were bent and noisy both were replaced, with quality 4mm shafts, motors twin 600s were also replaced by Graupner versions along with mounts and couplings, basically all the running gear, also two ESCs by Aquapower were added and a 2.4G RC system.
2 years ago by CB90
Hi also an unmade Aerokits Sea Queen 46”
ebay item No 332575370629
2 years ago by BigAlio
Thurl pin rack
I have just spoken to Brian at Mobile Marine and he advised the term was based on a very old English name for belaying pins.
Basically its a wooden plank with holes for the belaying pins and fastened in a raised position to the deck. The shrouds are wrapped in a figure of eight round the belaying pins which in an emergency can be knocked out to release. They are used on the davit fixings, not the mast.
I have small hooks on the shrouds to the bulwarks and on the fore mast fitting.
My model requires the top cabin to be removable so I have made a fixing out of wire that can be quickly released from the white metal fitting on both sides.
2 years ago by Dave M
Have moved on to the deck furniture and equipment, including the funnel. Most of it can be made from the usual assortment of scrap materials and odd and ends. Decided to start on the funnel. Planned to make up a wooden replica and wrap a thin styrene sheet around it, finally inserting styrene formers into the shell, gluing them into place. Made the replica up from scrap wood blocks and shaped it into the correct shape. The outcome looked so good was tempted to use as final as making funnels seems quite a challenge. Anyway proceeded to plan and shape thin styrene sheet around the replica, using a heat gun to overcome the memory. Once this was done, fitted shaped styrene internal formers to hold the styrene to the correct shape and glued with adhesive. After the styrene glue had dried and the excess material trimmed, now had two usable funnels - wood and styrene. The wood version is nominally smaller and fits slightly better, so decided to use it.
The Teakwood was originally operated by the J I Jacobs Company, which had a buff funnel with a black cap as markings. Stumbled across a picture of the vessel when she was chartered to the British india Steam Navigation Co. Evidently BI usually painted chartered vessels in their livery. Although the picture does not show the traditional and attractive BISNCo white hull cheat line, it does show the funnel markings. These are black with two narrowly separated white bands. Rather preferred this scheme so adopted it. The picture was taken in the mid 1960s and it also shows a pristine looking ship, my worries about the model looking unsoiled seem groundless.
One of the pictures shows a strip that extends back from the wheelhouse almost to the funnel - this is a support for the awnings that fit over the bridge wings.
2 years ago by RHBaker
Thanks Doug. I have a set of plans as I built a
some years ago. it got destroyed in a move back from Spain. I am trying to obtain a GRP hull now.
3 years ago by amar077
USCG ICEBREAKING TUG
ON THE WAYS: 1:48 SCALE USCG 140' BAY CLASS ICEBREAKING TUG; FIBERGLASS HULL WITH WOODEN CABIN/SUPERSTRUCTURE KIT FROM COAST GUARD MODELS IN CHICAGOLAND. WILL BE REPRESENTING ONE OF THE CUTTERS I SAILED ABOARD IN THE EARLY '80s.
USCGC KATMAI BAY (WTGB-101), H/P SAULT STE. MARIE, MI, USA.
3 years ago by circle43nautical
Palaform Griffon 600 - Police
Fran Oakey designed the Griffon 600 as a
Originally called the MM600 it used 2mm liteply without any lightning holes.
It is heavier than the Depron version but will operate in rougher water and higher wind speeds. Takes the knocks better too.
3 years ago by tonymid
Thanks for the link, I had already looked at the site and unfortunately could not visit on the 27th May for their regular lakeside meeting to make contact with club members.
However I had previously paid a visit to the lake on Sunday 21st May expecting to see a few boats on the lake on a what was a gloriously sunny afternoon and found not a single boat but plenty of wildfowl and the lake clogged with weed and leaves. it's a nice big stretch of water with plenty of landing stages around the shoreline and on the wooden bridge that separates the pleasure boating lake from the model boating lake but the amount of weed and detritus would make me wary of making a maiden voyage there.
By contrast, I visited the lake at Verulam Park St Albans a week earlier and, although not as big, had little or no weed, but a few alarmingly large branches were being thrown into the water by dog walkers who were encouraging their pets to retrieve them, but were ultimately abandoned. Sadly no boats were being sailed there at the time so I could not make any inquiries with their owners.
The first 3 pictures are Stanborough and the last 3 are St Albans.
I think I know which I prefer but I would still like to have the view of others who use these lakes regularly.
All responses welcome....please !
3 years ago by robbob
I have been puzzled by conflicting statements on the web, some stating that adding resin and fibreglass will strengthen wooden construction, and others stating that it will not. For my own understanding I did some tests, which others may find interesting. These are not by any means scientific, and meant only as a guide for me in model construction. The results show that coating balsa with resin and fibreglass cloth does strengthen it.
For those who want to see more detail, these are the results. Three separate strips of balsa, each 18" long by 1.5" wide were cut from a single sheet 36" long by 3" wide, 3/32" (2.4mm) thick. Each strip was placed on top of two supports 10" apart. A load was applied in increments to the centre of the span. After testing each strip in its uncoated condition, each one was coated with Deluxe Materials Eze-Kote resin, according to the maker's instructions, and a layer of fibreglass cloth applied on each side. The cloth was a piece I had spare so I don't know what weight it was, but I estimate between 1 and 1.5 oz per sq yd. After coating each strip was tested again. The results are shown in the chart. The lower the deflection when loaded, the stronger the strip.
Although all strips were cut from one sheet, strip 3 was clearly stiffer and stronger than the other two in its uncoated state. it benefited least from the addition of the fibreglass. Strips 1 and 2 showed a significant increase in strength.
3 years ago by Trillium
How do I resolve my varnish problem?
Hello, I recommend grinding the whole body with fine sanding paper, then take the "LORD NELSON" pore filler and then re-grind it again. Subsequently, the final lacquer of the best brand. I have been treated like a wooden boat DIVA and already for 6 years on the water without any problems. What happened to you is that you used a bad lacquer that does not resist water. Two-component epoxy lacquers are also good for large yachts. I'm sending a link to the Czech site where the varnishes are designed for ship modellers. Just use the Gogle translator and the same merchandise you can get at the shop. Or on EBay.
3 years ago by Inkoust
''Vanity'' leaves the building board
It's not all that bad, all is not lost -
They also have a Hi Res plans page! check 'em out!
Maritime Models is also alive and kicking! 😉
Both with period
s and plans, right up your slipway! 😎
3 years ago by RNinMunich
The mast & rigging.
I had previously adapted the mast with lighting and fixing studs and so it’s ready to be fitted to the wheelhouse roof, but I decided to add some rigging detail in the process.
Along with some other items, I had previously bought some threaded brass ’eyes’ and wooden rigging blocks by mail order from RB models in Poland. Very good prices and remarkably quick delivery from overseas.
I drilled the horizontal bar of the mast to take a couple of small brass eyes, and bent the lower part of the exposed thread back at an angle, onto these I fitted some wooden rigging blocks with brass sheaves which I had previously stained mahogany and lacquered.
Another slightly larger eye was fitted to the centre of the mast and another to the wheelhouse roof for the forward stay rope, I used some thin white elasticated thread that I found in my local Hobbycraft store for all the rigging. The stay rope end were finished with small brass hooks formed from some thin brass wire and secured with some small diameter heat shrink tubing, I think this makes for a much neater look than just tied knots. The top rigging ropes were made in the same way.
The completed mast was then bolted down through the wheelhouse roof on the threaded studs and the two lighting wires passed through separate holes in the roof.
This should allow me to detach the mast and fold it down for transport if necessary.
The lower end of the ropes from the rigging blocks were formed into a loop with a spot of superglue to fix them and then some small white heat shrink tube used to cover the joints. The loops fit neatly over the cleats on the cabin roof so that they can easily be released.
I’m hoping that being elasticated all the rigging will stay taut and remain presentable 😁
I must remember to order some ensigns flags from 'Mike Alsop Scale Flags' for a finishing feature as recommended by pmdevlin in an earlier blog post 👍
3 years ago by robbob
I realise that this is probably (almost certainly!) going over old ground for the nth time, but my last
was in the days of Cascamite, and things appear to have moved on a tad since then so I need advise on which glue to use on my newly acquired Aeronaut Jenny. It says in the manual to use 'quick setting , waterproof, white glue' which sounds like a PVA glue to me but I could very easily be wrong.
I would therefore be grateful for any advise going re types of glue, and their trade names, if possible.
3 years ago by octman
Celo wooden cabin of RC model yachts from 60. . Function controlled by the engine and rudder. The kit is not. The hull of the several belts oplaňkováním plating.1:25 scale (Motor: MIG 600) (ESC: TURNIGY) (9/10)
3 years ago by Inkoust
Wooden structure model fishing boats. Was done on his knee at home in the kitchen from the remnants of plywood, balsa etc. Motor 1 pc 600 with water cooling, 1pc battery NiCd 3000 mA. Excellent handling characteristics. Even though it was not good at handling the water looks great.
3 years ago by Inkoust
Wooden structure submarine chasers of 70 years in service with Russia and East Germany. Cover with balsa and smeared with epoxy varnish.
The model is equipped with two engines of 600 pcs, 2 pcs NiCd battery 3000 mA
3 years ago by Inkoust
Job Lot of Model boats , parts , plans , books everything
ive a large collection of model boats (72) some complete some not complete , ranging from wooden to fibreglass
the collection incs lots of new and used hulls , serious amounts of plans , new and old books , model boat mags , a lot of parts - props motors , radio controls , over 20 yachet sails with masts too much to mention and photograph
if anyone is interested in this full collection or making a serious dent in the collection , contact me on phone 07941140146👍
3 years ago by cpc100
Saint Marie is professionals built
My challenge is to re-rig her. She must have been hit by a tsunami! - the rigging is in a terrible state. Though, her beautifully stitched four sails are, with exception of a small red stain on the main- are like the fittings, in very good nick. I have only ever restored a glider and model Thames barge so by comparison this has become the challenge of a lifetime. Members please give me some tips.
Happy Christmas and a model New Year!
Fingers crossed, Ian
4 years ago by classicdining
Curl in a wooden sheet of 1/8'' ply
Thank you for your advice, it is well taken.
I don't generally work on
s, as my collection of boats are all made of plastic.
Except for one it's my number 1 barge which I finished awhile back but,
I didn't have any finishing supplies so I used Ducktape neatly of course.
My number 2 barge I want to finish it correctly, as you recommend the use of varnish or resin.
4 years ago by figtree7nts
Wood Ship Kit Modeling Tips and Tricks
Before you start modeling a ship, ensure your kit has all the parts such as mold lines, pin holes, warpage, flash and swirl marks, etc. If there are several parts, which are missing, then contact with your manufacturer to provide you with the required parts so that you can accomplish your job. With every wood ship kit you buy, you will get a detailed set of diagrams, as well as instructions, which will help you complete the job successfully.
At Ages of Sail, we carry a full line of Scale Wooden Ship Model Kits, Fittings, Books, Tools, and Supplies. We have Card Model kits from Shipyard of Poland, Denix Metal Cannons, Domus Architectural Kits, Medieval Cannons and Weapons, Miniature Figures from Amati, and much, much more. http://www.agesofsail.com/
4 years ago by andrewanten
(Yacht) 36 Rater model yacht
Purchased at Henly on Thames wooden boat show in May 2016 again by my brother in law who likes to see me recycle old model boats.
Thin GRP hull with stess fractures one mast and one thick canvas sail.
Hull was coated with polyester resin and model aircraft wing cloth rubbed down and recoated with another application of resin rubbed down and painted with three coats Yellow machinery enamel after having been redecked with 1/16" ply fitted out with four turn sail winch and standard Futaba servo for rudder via flexible cable connection.
As there are no restrictions on sail sizes and the original mast was in three sections at 196cm I replaced the centre 40 cm shorter in effect creating a no2 or B rig from Mylar type plastic sheet. Jib and Main made from four panels each and using a Claudio Gadget to create a curve in each sail.
Having sailed on very calm day several issues presented themselves which need to be addressed in the sail department.
Not too many photo's of this type about but I have found one on MYA website which I shall use to to make amendments i.e. new sails and gooseneck. (8/10)
4 years ago by Rex3644
I am enjoying your build and I am especially looking forward to seeing how you will fit the bow sections. I am in the process of painting my 34 inch fireboat. She is the first
that I have built and I have thoroughly enjoyed the process.
4 years ago by vosper
Hachette 1:250 Build the Titanic
I checked the ebay site insertion regarding the issues you seek he has sold quite
a few I have given you below the available issues in his stock now
77,78,79,80,81,83,84,85,86, & 89
should you wish to purchase these I would suggest contacting him and see
if you can get a bulk deal
4 years ago by felix
Hachette 1:250 Build the Titanic
I am a new member to this forum. I am looking for Issues 76-100 for this particular model. I came across the first 75 issues in their original unopened packets at a garage sale recently. I would love to be able to complete the model. Any advice please? Happy to hear from anyone who has some back issues for sale? Or any advice as to where I might source these back issues. (I have already tried ebay ...)
4 years ago by kimtho
Hachette 1:250 Build the Titanic
There is currently an insertion on eBay for the issues you are seeking 76-100
I just placed into eBay search engine model kits of the Titanic and on the second
page it came up with the very issues you seek,
if you require any further information please let me know
4 years ago by felix
Hachette 1:250 Build the Titanic
I have seen photos only of this model it looks really fantastic, unfortunately I can not
remember which website they were placed on.
Why not place an add in some of the model boat magazines, or have a word with a good
news agent who perhaps can give you a contact point for the suppliers of the kits
who may be helpful.
4 years ago by felix
Hachette 1:250 Build the Titanic
they seem to turn up on ebay
4 years ago by Haverlock
USA model boat clubs ?
I recently acquired a beautiful large (50 inch) wooden English fast ccabin cruiser molde and I am in the process of acquiring a 34 inch model of a 1936 rc equiped hydroplane
I am very familiar with the vintage model sailboat otganizations in England, USA, france, etc
I wonder if there is a model boat club associated with wooden powerboats on the east coast of the USA
any hlp would be appreciated
Concord NH USA
4 years ago by davet
I've never used the glass cloth, but I do know epoxy, from models to full size wooden narrow boat cabins. I applied epoxy (WEST) to the new cabins I built with an old credit card. 2 coats. Then red oxide primer followed by 3 coats of enamel top coat gloss. By the time I sold the boat those cabins had gone through 3 winters and still the water ran off like a duck's back.
I can't see how the glass can be safely or invisibly rubbed down with out seeing the overlaps in the finish. But I guess if you CAN rub it down invisibly it can't hurt, it just seems unecessary to me. Plus my work on a full sized boat kind of proves you don't need it. I have just epoxied the skin of my pre-War Marbehead yacht too, that'll be gently rubbed down and re-coated, then it'll be sprayed with enamel paint, using a touch-up gun and HMG enamel paint. I will not use acrylic for anything.
On a new build, I have used cellulose sanding sealer to fill grain thoroughly (up to 10 coats, but they go on one after another it dries so quickly), followed by either self etch primer (because I have a load of it) and finally enamels. I do NOT mean Humbrols! The enamels I use are made by HMG and are intended for industrial/commercial vehicles. That's plenty good enough for me!
I should also point out that I have 2 models which are now well over 50 years old and still bear their original enamel paint. No water ingress has ever occurred.
4 years ago by Westquay
Does anyone know. . . . . . . .
As a child of tender years, way back In the early 1960's, I used to spend hours sailing my model yachts In a pond at "The Lake Grounds", Portishead nr Bristol. I had a number of solid wooden hulled yatchs but my very favourite was an ocean going yacht, made by Scalex and named "Sea Hawk". The yacht was made from plastic, had a black hull and brown upperworks. The cabin roof was painted white and there were 2 crew, both In yellow oilskins and sowesters. One was seated at the helm, the other amidships on the cabin roof. A feature which made this yacht stand out on the pond, was Its bright red suit of sails.
The rudder was moveable and so a very rudamentry heading could be set, which would sometimes, slightly lengthen "the voyage!!!" The sheets could be lengthened/shortened on the jib and main, according to wind speeds on the day.
Scalex was a subsidiary of Tri-ang and they made several different model boats, using clock work, battery and sails for propulsion. In the late 60's or very early 1970's, Scalex turned all their production over to making model racing cars, adopting the name "Scalextric."
Do any of you chaps/ladies know of any photographs of these yachts or do you have any more Information about them? I have trawled the Internet for photos and Information without success. There Is plenty to find about other Scalex boats but nothing on the "Sea Hawk". I have even found vintage toy sites which have other scalex boats for sale but not a Sea Hawk.
The yacht was only between 12" and 16" long but Its shape and detail placed It towards the top end of the, small pond yacht scale. If anyone has any Information It would be greatly appreciated.
5 years ago by Oldtimer
I bought the 46" wooden kit a couple of years ago, from Vintage Model Works, got as far as building the hull ( Keel and bulkheads ) skeleton only no ply cladding yet.
Had to shelve the project due to other commitments, but hope to get back to the build soon.
MIke at Vintage Model Works was very knowledgable about the historic Keil craft kit and the new kit he now sells is every bit as good as the original.
Photographs of the prototype attached.
5 years ago by paulbryant
I made most of my fittings hence some of the delay. The stanchions are 1/8" brass tube from B&Q. I made a jig to keep the distance the same and ensure the holes were central. The railing I bought from SHG at one of the model shows but they are on-line as are other suppliers. I soft soldered the angled supports.
The window frames are from plasticard cut slightly smaller than the windows so that I could fit the acrylic windows in the wooden window frames.
The props are from Prop- Shop, I asked Simon at a show, told him the model and type of motor and he was spot on with his advice. Not cheap but very efficient and look correct.
I made the anchors from brass cut shaped and the tangs soft soldered. You can find examples of the real ones on the web to help with construction. I made mine about the same size as the wooden anchoe supplied in the kit.
Aerials are from brass tube and rod. I used the wooden sampson posts fore and aft.
The deck fittings are plastic sourced from one of the model shows
The scale is 1:12 so you should have no problem finding suppliers. Cornwall model Boats have a good assortment in their on-line store but e-bay has many suppliers.
When you get my pics you will see lots of the detail. Please ask if anything is unclear.
5 years ago by Dave M
Aerokits Sea Scout - Rudder and Prop
The Aerokits range were around in my youth and were very fine kits in their day and still rightly attract many to their clean lines and sailing qualities.
We now have much smaller and more efficient motors and batteries than were available when the kits were issued. IC engines were very popular and required good access to allow for starting. As a result the mounting was much higher than is required today and as a result the prop shaft angle was quite steep.
With a modern motor you can alter the shaft so that the angle is less severe and aligns with the motor on its mount inside the boat. The other consideration is the size of the prop as the shaft has to exit in a position that allows for clearance with the hull. You do need to fit a rudder so make sure you leave sufficient space behind the prop. You may need to angle the motor slightly and its position will need to be adjusted to suit the length of the prop shaft.
The motor mounting can be attached to the hull or a wooden plate in the hull. if space is tight and screws are too long you may have to glue the mount in place.
Once you have the prop shaft in place and the prop attached you can position the rudder vertically in line with the prop, there is usually a small 5-10 mm gap between the rudder and prop. Make sure you have room to attach an arm on the rudder shaft for the rudder servo.
A picture of the model would help if more specific advice is required.
Hope this helps
5 years ago by Dave M
I'm just getting started in the
ship hobby and really like the Tall Ships of history. it seems that they are going out of favor and the RC boats are gaining popularity. You have merged both worlds quite successfully. (except for the open gun ports 😊 Get her out of dry dock and back to sailing ! Good luck.............
5 years ago by mrbear
Waterproofing my wooden hull
Can someone please advise on the use of Z-poxy resin for waterproofing my
boat hull. Should I apply JUST the resin to the exterior or Interior of the hull or should It be used In conjunction with fibre glass cloth layered on the outside surfaces.
5 years ago by impartit
Aerokits 34ins Vosper RAF Crash Tender
SORRY , MODEL HAS BEEN SOLD,,
I am offering For Sale from my collection, an original Aerokits Vosper RAF Crash Tender Model Boat, 34ins In length. This model Is made of an all wood construction dating back to the 1960's, It Is In a very good condition, the model has been sprayed In Flair Paint Products, black and red gloss on the hull, and Flair Matt finish on the decking and cabin roof.
The Model comes complete with a list of new fittings an Electronize FR30HX speed controller, Graupner speed 700BB turbo water cooled motor, Action Electronics P44A Universal twin switcher for water pump, 12 volt water pump for water cannons, and a Futaba S3001 rudder servo.
The Model has an oil lubricator cup In the prop shaft and comes complete with Its own wooden stand.
There Is a little work still to do to finish this model off, fenders and rescue nets one side to fit, mast to be completed, laser cut window set Is finished off, but one side still requires to be Installed. The water cannons are operational they just need piping up to the water pump.
This RAF Crash Tender has never been sailed, I started to restore the model 2 years ago but sadly due to my work commitments I have not had time to finish this project.
As I previously mentioned this Crash Tender Is the small one 34", If you are a classic 1960's enthusiast this may be the one for you. Price £225.00
(Please note :- there are no batteries, Radio Transmitter, or Receiver with this Model)
Genuine reason for sale, Its time to down size on my collection.
Would prefer to be collected rather than posted please.
We are located just off junction 28 of the M1 signposted Mansfield.
Any further enquiries please e-mail me or phone 07860 775273
5 years ago by Roger777
EMPRESS QUEEN ISLE OF MAN STEAM PACKET
The Bow and the stern now have the right shapes. Work could now start on hull strengthening inside with wooden formers. Decking was done in liteply and the laborious task of marking out the planking. This was done with a 4H pencil and later varnished. Some years ago I managed to purchase some anchor chain with the studs across the links just like the real thing and decided this model was worth using this. I have not been able to purchase any of this since. if anybody knows of a supplier of model chain with the studded links please let me know.
6 years ago by 4clubs
Crash Tenders for sale on E-Bay
Just seen two ad for a kit and part completed Crash tenders. Can't find the Item numbers but they are In the Toys & Games/Radio Controlled/Boats and Hovercraft.
One listed as: KeilKraft / Aerokits Vosper High Speed RAF Crash Rescue Tender kit - seem complete and Includes the original Yeoman casting fitting kit
the other: VINTAGE VOSPER
BOAT RC RAF CRASH TENDER.
Worth a look for all you Fireboat buffs!