|||
Current Website Support
71
Contributors
6
Subscribers
You are Not Registered
Donate for your silver medal ๐Ÿ…
ยฃ10
ยฃ15
ยฃ25
ยฃ50
Subscribe for your gold medal ๐Ÿ…
ยฃ1
ยฃ3
ยฃ5
ยฃ10
You Will Be Helping Towards:

  • Domain Fees
  • Security Certificates
  • iOS & Android App Fees
  • Website Hosting
  • Fast Servers
  • Data Backups
  • Upkeep & Maintenance
  • Administration Costs

    Without your support the website wouldn't be what it is today.

    Please consider donating towards these fees to help keep us afloat.

    Read more

    All donations are securely managed through PayPal. Amounts donated are not published online.

    Many thanks for your kind support
  • Join Us On Social Media!
    Model Boats Website
    Model Boats Website
    Home
    Forum
    Build Blogs
    Media Gallery
    Boat Clubs & Lakes
    Events
    Boat Harbour
    How-To Articles
    Plans & Docs
    Useful Links
    Search
    Search
    Blog
    Keel
    Printed out the frames /ribs drawings and outlined each in orange so I could easily see the correct lines. Cut those out and pasted to some plywood. The plywood is Baltic Birch 1/4" -5 ply, very nice quality that I get from a local
    woodworking
    supply store. it's a bit nicer than from the local warehouse hardware lumber yard, but that would work also. Used some spray rubber cement, sprayed only the paper back and stuck on the plywood. Spraying just one surface allows quick removal of the paper once cut. I don't have a bandsaw of scroll saw, so I use a sabresaw/hand jigsaw mounted upside down on a surface that secures to my drill press. Works pretty good. My shop is so tiny that I just don't have a space for larger tools. Maybe someday. Keel board was glued up, will show more tomorrow on that. Joe
    1 year ago by Joe727
    Blog
    Day Two Springer
    Springer build log for website Hello all, Even though I am in the middle of several projects, including refitting two of my boats, I can't resist starting a new one. I am sure that I am not the only one with this affliction, I get bored quickly and jump from project to project. To keep them moving, I mostly work simultaneously. So here goes, my first ever Build Blog, bear with me.... Picked the Springer Tug as it is very simple and it will just be used ss a backup recovery vessel. I intend to build it a zero cost from my parts box and scrap wood pile. I put together my extra props, driveshaft, gearbox, motor, esc and RX. May have to buy a SLA Battery to get descent run time. Started last evening by making a template based on the plan in photo, credit goes to hull designer, see photo. Then I determined my motor location and Drive Line Angle so I could design the stuffing tube. Constructed that the same night using a 3/16" SS steel drive shaft. Bronze bushings from local hardware store and brass tubing from my supplies. See photos... Had the 500dc motor, Master Airscrew Gearbox, drive shaft, coupler and 2" brass prop. More to come..... Joe Day 2 Hello, Next I traced the hull sides on to 12mm/1/2" Baltic birch plywood from Woodcraft store. I nailed two pieces together prior to cutting so as to match. I don't have a scroll saw so I built a table mount for a jigsaw that attaches to my homemade drill press table. Cut them together, but the jigsaw does not cut well in terms of verticality. So I clamped them in a vise and hand sanded till they matched and were at 90 degrees. I showed my simple rig for the sabre saw / jigsaw table. if you need detail, just ask. I also showed my custom made 4 1/2 table that I made because I could not find a scaled down table saw for model making. (Could not afford, I am retired and have a low budget. Glued up the sides and ends tonight with Titebond 3, temporary nails to help hold it into place. Note: As to any joints whether it be electronic,
    woodworking
    , etc., a good practice is to use this both adhesive and mechanical fastener. I swear by these as one or the other will eventually fail This is as simple as using a screw, nail or rod, and the appropriate adhesive. Model building, as most will say is cheaper than therapy. Joe
    1 year ago by Joe727
    Response
    Internal wiring & bottom skins
    Hi Rob, I'm really pleased to see construction detail, I suppose in preference to a finished boat, you may ask why? well looking at your pictures, the last two in particular they show the precision of your
    woodworking
    skills with a distinct absence of any filler, really nice. Looking at the first picture (top view) is there any reason why the battery and ECS can't go in front and behind the motor addressing the issue of short wiring runs (not that I have a clue about wiring and electronics) PS. however it looks like its too late as some wiring is already installed and by now the skins are probably on now Keep up the good work
    1 year ago by mturpin013
    Response
    Rescue Vessel - Springer Tug
    Hello, Next I traced the hull sides on to 12mm/1/2" Baltic birch plywood from Woodcraft store. I nailed two pieces together prior to cutting so as to match. I don't have a scroll saw so I built a table mount for a jigsaw that attaches to my homemade drill press table. Cut them together, but the jigsaw does not cut well in terms of verticality. So I clamped them in a vise and hand sanded till they matched and were at 90 degrees. I showed my simple rig for the sabre saw / jigsaw table. if you need detail, just ask. I also showed my custom made 4 1/2 table that I made because I could not find a scaled down table saw for model making. (Could not afford, I am retired and have a low budget. Glued up the sides and ends tonight with Titebond 3, temporary nails to help hold it into place. Note: As to any joints whether it be electronic,
    woodworking
    , etc., a good practice is to use this both adhesive and mechanical fastener. I swear by these as one or the other will eventually fail This is as simple as using a screw, nail or rod, and the appropriate adhesive. Model building, as most will say is cheaper than therapy. Joe
    1 year ago by Joe727
    Media
    Gypsy Sloop Jr.
    When I was in high school back in 1957 I built a kit of the Comet Gypsy Sloop Jr. in 2016 I found the drawings on-line for the Gypsy Jr. The boat was entered in
    woodworking
    class at our county fair where it received a blue ribbon. it has a working wheel that turns the rudder. Now I have under construction a 32 inch version that I would like to radio control. I'm not too sure how to set up or what type of servo to install.
    2 years ago by Popeyepapa
    Forum
    Clamps and such
    Alligator clamps, small
    woodworking
    clamps?
    2 years ago by Ron
    Forum
    Richards 48'' Swordsman
    Very neat ๐Ÿ‘ But I thought all you
    woodworking
    aces were 'joggling' fans ?? ๐Ÿ˜‰ Cheers Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž
    3 years ago by RNinMunich
    Response
    Shelduck
    Beooootiful! ๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿ‘ I'm jealous of your
    woodworking
    skills. Seems a shame to cover all that lovely woodwork with paint! ๐Ÿค” Tidiest planking I've seen for a long time. Compliments ๐Ÿ˜Š I guess these last posts are what is called a 'prequel' ??? ๐Ÿ˜‰ Look forward to the video! ๐Ÿ˜Ž
    3 years ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Planking
    PS To give up now would be a great shame and waste of all the effort, materials and time you already put into building the framework ๐Ÿค” To make it easier, especially if you plan to later strengthen the planking with glass fibre (highly recommended unless building a klinker built boat or vintage yacht), use very thin flexible planks or strip. I used 0.5mm 3ply on my destroyer. This is then still stiff enough to give you the hull form you want but not too difficult to bend to shape. For extreme curves steam it to make it more flexible. The kitchen tea kettle is enough for this. ;-) Use clamps rather than pins or small nails and don't try to do too many planks at once! Patience is a virtue, especially in model building ๐Ÿ˜‰ Glue and clamp the planks on the relatively straight sections first. I used waterproof white
    woodworking
    glue without problems. it gives you time for adjustments and remains flexible when set, which epoxy does not! Then when the glue is set, the next day or whenever time or the 'other half' allows ๐Ÿ˜‰ glue and clamp the curved sections (bow and stern). The tip above to make trial templates from thin card, e.g. cereal packets or similar, is also worth it's weight in gold! Just make sure that the card is not so thin that it straightens out the curves! Otherwise your wood planks cut to these templates will be too short ๐Ÿ˜ญ Planking is not really so difficult, it just needs time and patience ๐Ÿ˜Ž These days you can also buy inexpensive plank cutters these days. Mostly used for cutting deck equal width planks but maybe useful for hull planking!? Please post a pic of the framework so far so we can see how far you've got and what the hull form looks like. Cheers from Munich ๐Ÿ˜Ž
    3 years ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Fantastic Plastic
    I'm more comfortable working with wood as I was taught
    woodworking
    skills at school back in the dark and distant, but plastic certainly has it's merits as it's versatile and far more malleable, and forgiving, as I have discovered during my build, even brass work is getting easier for me ๐Ÿ˜. Rob
    3 years ago by robbob
    Response
    Caldercraft Professional Glue
    Hi Ed, Happy new year, have a look in your local builders merchant or walmart type place, thick cyno is common to a lot of sellers, would save you postage to, same as pva, buy the stuff from a
    woodworking
    store Regards Mark
    3 years ago by jarvo
    Forum
    King-Fisher changes made
    Planning to use my belt sander for chines to match the bulkheads as shown in the plan. I do other
    woodworking
    such as this toy barn, which I just finished for my grandson's birthday next week.
    3 years ago by Ron
    Forum
    Which paint
    Howdy! Minwax makes a product called "Prestain" for
    woodworking
    . it also works good as a primer.
    4 years ago by CaptLarry
    Forum
    First Boat--First Project -- Sea Queen Restoration
    That windows looks really good. I'm not surprised there are inconsistencies, building model in the 1960's was popular but the instructions were basic and many builders lacked the
    woodworking
    skills. in spite of that there were many well constructed models and the Aerokits range were very good for the novice builder and sailed beautifully. You seem to be moving quite well with the renovation and will soon have a nice clean and solid hull. Dave
    5 years ago by Dave M
    Blog
    learning points
    OK finally got going for real at start of Feb. in Jan all I did was reinforce some of the old joints on the hull that looked a bit dry and dubious, used Araldite resin AW106, not the lightest way of doing it but it will work OK and I could run it up under the deck/hull joints as well as the bits I could reach. I didn't fancy taking the deck off, what with my
    woodworking
    skills...The motor mount is more my area and this was quickly folded up and drilled from .071" aluminium alloy, slotted holes allow a good alignment to the shaft. The rudder was always a problem, a very short tube (I'm sure there is a tech name for it) allowed water to get in with the boat at speed so I changed that for a longer one and new rudder, which is far too big at the moment I suspect but I will wait and see before I cut it down. The servo is mounted in the aft bay on a galvanised steel bracket, there should be enough room for a link and again I slotted the holes to help set up the correct ratio. I am currently doing a bit of framing to sit the new aft hatch and electronics tray on, the latter is going just aft of the motor in what might be called the 2nd to last bay (are the divided areas in a boat called bays???). The learning point is the speed controller, I bought two 7.2v batteries thinking to run at either 7.2 or 14.4 depending on how I found the performance/my RC skill (none) ratio. Then I bought a 12v ESC... ๐Ÿ˜ฏ I don't know, can I push my luck and see if it will take 2.4v extra without setting things alight or do I buy a new ESC or 2 6v batteries?
    7 years ago by fid2b
    Response
    inside the stern...1/72 destroyer
    Looking good so far Mark, What glue are you using to set all of this together? I'd love to have a go at a Destroyer like this, but dont think my
    woodworking
    skills are good enough yet to cope with one.
    8 years ago by Gregg


    About This Website
    Terms of Service
    Privacy Policy
    Cookies used in this website are gluten free, wheat free and dairy free. By using this website you agree to our use of cookies. More Info