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>> Home > Tags > 12 scale

12 scale
1:12 scale
1/12th scale
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12 scale
Cabin detail part 6 panel light by mturpin013 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 24 days ago
Cabin detail part 6 panel light The panel light presented a difficult challenge in that I assume the real one has a tubular light fitting in it, difficult in 1/12 scale. However, creating the tube assembly was not difficult using some annealed 1/8” brass tube and making a bending jig, (simply a 1/8 grove milled using a ball ended slot drill into a piece of hardwood I formed the tube into the required shape. I used the back of the jig to hold the piece while I filled the tube half way through along it top inside edge @ 45 degrees this is where the LED tube will fit. The LED tube is from one of the new type LED garden light bulb that use a small solar panel to illuminate it during the during dark hours. Smashing the bulb leaves 4 filaments which can be used independently, these are very delicate and need the wires attaching very carefully finally feeding it into the brass tube and then after all this fiddling, if it still lights, epoxy it in place. The next job is to make some brackets to fix it to the instrument panel. The bracket was made from 1/8” bore tube and some 0.010” brass shim I drilled some holes in the sheet prior to cutting to size, this was done using only a 1/8” dia centre drill and then enlarged with a clock makers reamer until the tube fitted snugly through this was then soft soldered in place. The whole unit was then epoxied in place on the instrument panel. All the wiring for the panel LEDs can now be completed ready for connection to the random flashing circuit board. (this came as a kit for just £3:90) The circuit board is fastened to the panel with a sub-board made from a scrap piece of ply with PCB supporting pillars in the corners, when this is completed I will post a video of it working. The LEDs on the circuit board are only for testing and will be replaced with the panel LEDs.

Holy SMOKE !! Video, Tin Can Madness by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 29 days ago
Hi Joe, When you click on the Media File icon have you ever noticed the [Download] button in the top left corner of the media window!!?? 😲 Click on that and you are given the choice to Open or Download the file 😉 BTW: to answer your question above - No scale railway at all! I intend to use the loco smokers in RC conversions of 1/350 scale plastic navy ships, such as; HMSs Ark Royal, Colossus, King George Fifth, Prince of Wales, Exeter, and KMSs Bismarck and Graf Zeppelin. As well as RMS Titanic and my 1/128 HMS Belfast and Graf Spee. Two more perhaps for my Southampton tug. Have used them in the dim and distant past for my 1/72 scale RN destroyer. Built a little RC pulse decoder using CMOS chips followed by a transistor driver to switch a relay supplying the smoker coil. See pics of self etched decoder board. The other three outputs are for various lighting effects and destroyer 'Whoop whoop' siren. 30 years old now and still going 😊 The smokers work pretty well just using the capillary action of the thin glass feeder tubes. So no wick to come into contact with a a hot wire coil 😊 They were mounted on a bridge across the cap of a large spray can which I used as the oil tank. Exhaust used the chimney effect of a 10mm alu tube running up the funnel. I'm also still pondering how to turn the usual white steam/smoke black! Cheers, Doug 😎

Brushless motor(s) by canabus Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi RHBaker I had the motor ,so I used it. The sister motor is a 3639-750kv 600Watts 8325 rpm on 3S. The 3639-1100kv 800Watts 12210 rpm on 3S. Next up the 3648-1450kv 1600Watts 16095 rpm on 3S. All are straight bolt replacement, but, the 3648 requires a 100Amp ESC. The 3639 750kv would be the better motor for the boat to get scale speed. Canabus

Day Two Springer by Joe727 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Springer build log for website Hello all, Even though I am in the middle of several projects, including refitting two of my boats, I can't resist starting a new one. I am sure that I am not the only one with this affliction, I get bored quickly and jump from project to project. To keep them moving, I mostly work simultaneously. So here goes, my first ever Build Blog, bear with me.... Picked the Springer Tug as it is very simple and it will just be used ss a backup recovery vessel. I intend to build it a zero cost from my parts box and scrap wood pile. I put together my extra props, driveshaft, gearbox, motor, esc and RX. May have to buy a SLA Battery to get descent run time. Started last evening by making a template based on the plan in photo, credit goes to hull designer, see photo. Then I determined my motor location and Drive Line Angle so I could design the stuffing tube. Constructed that the same night using a 3/16" SS steel drive shaft. Bronze bushings from local hardware store and brass tubing from my supplies. See photos... Had the 500dc motor, Master Airscrew Gearbox, drive shaft, coupler and 2" brass prop. More to come..... Joe Day 2 Hello, Next I traced the hull sides on to 12mm/1/2" Baltic birch plywood from Woodcraft store. I nailed two pieces together prior to cutting so as to match. I don't have a scroll saw so I built a table mount for a jigsaw that attaches to my homemade drill press table. Cut them together, but the jigsaw does not cut well in terms of verticality. So I clamped them in a vise and hand sanded till they matched and were at 90 degrees. I showed my simple rig for the sabre saw / jigsaw table. If you need detail, just ask. I also showed my custom made 4 1/2 table that I made because I could not find a scaled down table saw for model making. (Could not afford, I am retired and have a low budget. Glued up the sides and ends tonight with Titebond 3, temporary nails to help hold it into place. Note: As to any joints whether it be electronic, woodworking, etc., a good practice is to use this both adhesive and mechanical fastener. I swear by these as one or the other will eventually fail This is as simple as using a screw, nail or rod, and the appropriate adhesive. Model building, as most will say is cheaper than therapy. Joe

Rescue Vessel - Springer Tug by Joe727 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Void

Cooling coil by ChrisF Lieutenant   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi Steve - yours is 1:12 then which is the scale I'm building all mine at. Yes, the building is the best bit (and the drawing in my case) as I doubt I will use them that much. Where did you get your bollards etc. from as I shall need to start getting those bits and pieces together. Chris

"Surfury" Stern Name by Bollard Apprentice   Posted: 4 months ago
Hi Lucky Bill The font is Old English Monotype. I think that S.H.G. Marine may still have some of the name decals for their 1/12 scale Surfury from the 1960's Best of luck. Bollard

Who's at the helm? by steve-d Commander   Posted: 4 months ago
I need a helmsman for my Huntsman 31 in 1:12 scale. All I'm finding is dolls house dolls or gnarley fishermen in sou'westers. Need a man or woman in casual cloths. Any thoughts? thanks Steve

"Exuberent" DH142 by Ballast Admiral   Posted: 4 months ago
South Devon Crabber :- Cygnus GM 32' 1/12 Scale. Donor hull 32" fitted out/scratch built. Replica of actual vessel that floundered off Weymouth in 1983. Model build started in 1981 and completed in 2018 !!!

1/24 crew figures by Colin H. Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 5 months ago
Super looking detailed model, if you ever feel the urge to slate the roof I have available 500+. 1/12th scale pre cut vinyl slates, which are free plus postage. Pm me if interested. Cheers Colin.

Solent class lifeboat by Andy1 Apprentice   Posted: 5 months ago
😁Hi all, I am new to this website, I have recently received boat plans for a 1/12 scale Solent class lifeboat of which I have started to build, the plans are dated for September 1976, I suspect they were originally for a kitt. My question is what size should the propellers be? As the model is going to spend most of it's time out of the water much detail would be most appreciated. Many thanks Andy.

Brass bashin' Chris Craft deck fittings... by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 6 months ago
Colin, these are to fit in with my Chris Craft, which is roughly 1/8th scale, so they just look right. I don't have any dimensions as there are no Chris Craft Special Race Boats in Britain. Not that anyone would dare to question you anyway as nobody gives a toss about classic speedboats over here. We never had those types of boats. The Thames had one or two nice Brookes and slipper launches, but our attempts at speed were never as elegant as the Yanks and were all a bit boxy and unembelished and generally sat upon by authorities who didn't like speed, except at Windermere and Oulton Broad and they were mainly outboard powered with one or two exceptions in aluminium, and paint. Mahogany was strictly for furniture for the English. I will get all these bits cast and will have spares, so if you need any that are among my bits, just holler and I'll see what I can do. May have to charge for metal weight, but that's about it, as I will have to pay for that, even if I can get the bits squeezed in other peoples' moulds. I reckon you could use these on a 1/12th scale model without any doubt being caused. Most boats used two of those vents. A couple of cleats, a light/cum staff holder and screen supports, which I'm also doing but haven't got a picture of. That will comprise left and right, short and central, longer. The glass will slide in cast in grooves. A filler and steering wheel and instruments finish it off. Can't do a bow piece as they are all different and must fit the boat exactly. That's down to you and you can only foil that for the chrome look. Just wait till I have to do some of these! Ain't they gorgeous? Cheers, Martin

Brass bashin' Chris Craft deck fittings... by Colin H. Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 6 months ago
Super job, I could do with a dozen in 1/12th scale what size would I need to make them, please can you post a sketch with sizes and your scale, I can rescale them. Cheers Colin.

LED Tug Mast Navigation Lights by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 7 months ago
Hi Pete, That was just a selection of my larger 350 scale kits! Forgot HMS Prince of Wales battleship😉 I also have a vast collection of everything from 720 to 72, including the Revell Flower Class corvette. I started an XL spread sheet to keep track of them with scale and size data, number of shafts, and where practical and already measured max load capacity! Re: wood decks; I have them on my Graf Spee and HMS Belfast both 1:128, and have bought them for Hood, Bismarck and the corvette. In my experience the self adhesive starts to pull up at the edges, always in the most awkward place to get to to fix😡 I learned to use a gel type gluper sue for first time fitting and thin runny stuff for repairs so it creeps under the edge a bit. Yes please, the info on the decks would be useful especially Titanic. i have a premium version with lots of etch parts but no wood I think. Why do we do it? Cos we're nuts! Prerequisite for scale modelling 😁 Happy modelling, Cheers, Doug 😎 PS my favourite carrier photo attached; Capn of the Nimitz wanted to go water skiing 😁😁

Emerald - "Round the Word" ocean racing yacht. by East-RN Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 7 months ago
Purchased new in kit form, from Robbe. 1998. Specifications:- Overall length: 1380mm. Overall beam: 360 mm. Draught: 300 mm. Mast height: 1800 mm. Overall height: 2200 mm. Standard sail area: 80 square dm. Sail area with Genoa: 94 square dm. Total displacement: 12 kg. Ballast: 8 kg. Scale: 1:10 Control Robbe Futaba F14 Marine transmitter / receiver. Channel 1 - Rudder servo. Channel 2 - Spare. Channel 3 - Genoa sail servo. Genoa switch module - fitted between the stick potentiometer and the transmitter channel 3 Socket. (Reverses the Genoa sail servo for Port or Starboard tack.) Channel 4 - Main sail servo. Channel 5 - Auxiliary 3 position switch - up position. Channel 6 - Auxiliary 3 position switch - down position. Receiver channel 5 - Mono Memory relay module. To drive the Blister motor out, to raise the Genoa Sail Clew. Receiver channel 6 - Mono Memory relay module. To drive the Blister motor in, to tighten the Genoa Sail Clew. Recently recovered from the back of the shed, where it has been in hibernation. Now I am retired and have some free time, it is under a review and refurbishment. New paint on the deck and upper hull (above the waterline). Solid state relay modules added, to replace the micro switches, operated from a cam on a servo (replacing analogue channel 2 with on/off channels 5 and 6). Pictures show the sea trials after the 10 year hibination. The Genoa Module had failed in the carbon potentiometers. No replacement available, so found a local electronics repairers, who changed the potentiometers for £10.00. The carrying cradle was designed to hold the sails, and secure the yacht while rigging at the waters edge. Also acts as a dry dock, while working inside the hull. When the repaired module is fitted, and the Genoa sail is operational, I will post detailed video of the Genoa sail winch and Blister motor and their operation while sailing. Genoa Sail Pictures added.