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>> Home > Tags > 12 scale

12 scale
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12 scale
Battery problems by pmdevlin Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 days ago
something is fundamentally wrong here, there is no way that motor/esc/battery combo should have fried the esc in your perkassa. I have a number of large scale boats with a fast brushless set up, I pull almost 90 amps with one of them, on the initial acceleration, using 6 cells, 120a esc and (here is the difference) a 900kv brushless motor. The racing guys use high kv motors, they need the high revs, with a heavier boat like yours, you need the revs, but also the torque, which is a lower kv motor Before you do anything else, buy something like this er-budget.htm really cheap, but saves you a fortune. As many of previous posts have said, you need to measure what is going on, for example, the specs of you motor say max current is 100amps, you need to measure your amp draw. You know the esc was 160a with a burst of 200a, so should have been well within the capabilities of your set up, but we cant see the prop. If its too big, and too coarse, particularly holding the boat, the amp burst would have had to exceed 160a to pop the esc, which is also well over the motor specs. I doubt the hobby shop will do anything, as the fault could have been a multitude of things, Personally, I think that motor is way too high KV, and I'm saying this from experience of large, heavy scale boats, with fast brushless set ups. I would have expected it to rev very high, but not deliver a really fast top speed, but I could be wrong. Shame really as its quite an expensive set up there. Are you sure about the facts, holding that boat, and max throttle must have been pulling your arm off, I cant hold any of mine😱

The cockpit steps. by robbob Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 6 days ago
A little bit more cockpit detailing....there's quite a lot to do in there and I want it to look as good as some of the inspiring examples that I have seen on other boats...sorry if I have stolen your ideas 😜 The cockpit steps were made from some 12mm x 3mm mahogany strip that I made up from some 10mm strip glued together and then cut down to the required width. The supplied drawing was to the correct scale so I was able to use this as a template, but one of the legs of each ladder needs to be slightly longer on one side because of the curvature of the tow-hook deck onto which the ladders are fixed. The treads were cut to the correct width and length and the forward edge rounded slightly. After marking the correct height of the treads on the sides I drilled some small holes through the sides into the treads for some 1mm brass rod to reinforce the glued joint. The steps were assembled using superglue and the brass rod helped to keep the piece square and true as the glue set. The protruding brass rod was then cut and filled flush with the sides. After a light sanding a mahogany stain was applied to enhance the colour and then few costs of satin lacquer sprayed to give the final finish. The steps will be fixed through the deck with some hex head wood screws from the underside so that they meet the bulkhead at the upper end without any fixing. I think they have come out quite well 😁. I'm making the foam tanks just at the moment....and I thought the steps were fiddly !! 😲

The flagstaff. by robbob Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
While waiting for paint and lacquer to dry I thought I'd try making a flagstaff to go at the stern to take an RAF ensign that I'd like to fit. I used a short length of 5mm brass tube set into a circular flange that I shaped from some brass sheet. The hole in the flange was filed out to take the 5mm tube at an angle and was soft soldered into place, a 2mm nut was then press fitted into the base of the tube and secured with a drop of superglue. The pole was made from some 2mm brass rod tapped with a 2mm thread on one end. A short length of 4mm rod was bored out with a 2mm hole and was soft soldered close to the end to fit snugly into the 5mm base tube to act as a spacer, and another short piece of brass hand turned to make a knob at the upper end. During initial construction I had set a wood block below the deck at this point to provide support for a flagstaff (always thinking ahead 😉) and this was drilled out at an angle for the 5mm base which was epoxied in place ensuring that base was seated correctly and the flagstaff was vertically aligned. The length of the flagstaff is about 11cm above the deck and is removable for transportation. It turned out really well and I will keep the brass finish but give it a coat of clear lacquer to prevent it tarnishing. I will order the two flags (flagstaff and mast) from Mike Alsop flags & ensigns as soon as I have worked out the correct sizes for 1:12 scale.

1/12scale SPEEDLINE Trent lifeboat kit by modeltugman Admiral   Posted: 1 month ago
I Have been asked by the widow of one of our old members to sell this kit, it is the complete works from speedline for the Trent lifeboat at 1/12 scale. 48" long. Very little has been done to the kit so far. comprising of:- Hull and wheelhouse Handrail stanchions and kicking boards Casting set Window set Vac forming set Brass rod Screws very small nuts and bolts Running gear set Brass detail set 3 made up crew members She would like offers very near. £600. PM me if interested for contact details this would be for collection from Gravesend Kent only.

First post... by Midlife306 Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 1 month ago
I couldn't resist any longer, here is my 1/12 scale K7 alongside a ply sponson template for my 1/4.2 scale next project. I'm feeling giddy, I might start going to the gym... Cheers

First post... by Midlife306 Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi Dave, The 1/12 Bluebird is brushless (all running gear from PMB), as it's made from balsa, I've waterproofed everything with sanding sealer inside & out. To be honest I was planning on taking it to quiet stretches of the Leeds/Liverpool canal as I didn't think any scale model boat clubs would want anything to do with my boat, but I will have a look at what clubs there are locally. The 1/4.2 will be IC powered, I want it to reach a scale speed of 300mph so if I can hit 75mph in the real world with it I'll be very happy. I hope if I can keep it light enough a couple of Tiger King S27 Evo's will get me there. I've emailed PMB as they don't have any stock at the moment, to see when they are due some in, but I've not received a reply yet. Plan is to buy 1 engine initially so I can plan the layout & while I'm carrying on with the build I was going to drop it into this eBay hull to see how it performs. I have a couple of Enya 40ss motors, I'm going to try one in the Short Stuff & see how it goes. I can't cope sitting at home watching the telly, I like to keep busy😎 Cheers Wayne

First post... by Midlife306 Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi all, my first post so please be gentle with me. I'm Wayne from Colne in Lancashire, I'm very new to the hobby. I started building a brushless prop driven 1/12 scale Bluebird K7 late on last year, I'd got the plans from Canada & they were at best very poor. At first it was 1 step forwards & 2 steps back but I've progressed to the point where it's "alive", just the canopy to vacuum form & fit & it will be ready to paint. During the backwards steps I've also built a 1/24 scale K7 for my grandson, just the sponsons to fit then it will be ready for paint also. I've managed to lay my hands on the Nexus K7 plans at 8.4/1, I figured go big or go home so I had them doubled in size so they are now at 4.2/1, I just can't afford to put a turbine in is so I'm planning to put a couple of 27cc tiger king engines in it. It's going to be an expensive build so I'm collecting "stuff" for the build. I've managed to get hold of an old Dumas short stuff fibreglass kit that I'm going to build for my grandson & ive just got a bigger hull off eBay for £30. Can anyone identify this hull? Sorry for the long post!!! Cheers Wayne

Damen Stan 4207 by RHBaker Admiral   Posted: 2 months ago
Although we have had several signs of spring, the local outdoor pool is still closed. Our club was requested to attend a local boat show, using our portable pool, so took the opportunity to test the vessel as she is now almost complete. In an earlier post described that if the later additions could be contained within 2 lbs the model should be close to the correct waterline. This was determined by using weights balanced at the stern. So far, have added about 1 ½ lbs, but mainly around the mid section. From the attached pictures it can be seen that the bow is slightly low and the stern high. This suggests that by moving weight within the hull the correct balance can be obtained. If 16 oz is placed at the stern both bow and stern become correct. Am loath to just add ballast, prefer to rebalance and retain the current weight. Fortunately within the hull there is space towards the stern that can accommodate a heavy component. Had been reluctant to commit to either a stick or stack style NIMH battery, so decided to make one up using two plastic C type battery holders and individual C cells. See picture. The electrical system is 7. 2 volts, the cells were divided into 4 and a two cell trays. The heavier of these was disconnected and moved 8” sternwards. It is too early to finalize the weight distribution as have to build the R.I.B. and it's launch/retrieval system. Think that moving this 12 oz sternwards though the vessel should be close to the correct waterline.Hope to be able to check that shortly. From the stern picture a list to starboard is evident. This is easy to correct by moving the batteries slightly in the opposite direction. Although the pool is quite small, was able to test all the other functions. Scale speed was realistic and during a sharp turn little heeling is apparent. Everything else, bow thruster, fire hydrant, lights, radar scanner, fin and rudders work satisfactorily.

Speedline by Slickdick Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 2 months ago
Has anyone had any contact with Adrian from speedline boat models After buying a severn 1/12 scale from him and after having problems with some parts trying to contact him is a real problem Keith

Soldering 1/12 Scale Brass Railings by Ballast Commander   Posted: 2 months ago
Thanks Havelock all logged ! Thanks for your time, I might even upload some of my c😉ck-ups !!!

Soldering 1/12 Scale Brass Railings by Haverlock Admiral   Posted: 2 months ago 0-Tin-Lead-Solder-Wire-HQ-Flux -Multi-Rosin-Cored-Solder-DIY- Hobby-22-SWG-/142069333049 Tin/lead solder is still out there and I agree with Dave not being a fan of lead free solders

Soldering 1/12 Scale Brass Railings by Ballast Commander   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi Dave. Thanks for the reply and info all of which is very helpful, giving me confidence to "take the bull by the horns" so to speak !!! I will definitely keep the site updated with progress. It is just having the initial confidence to take that mighty leap !!!👍😉

Soldering 1/12 Scale Brass Railings by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi Alan I make many of my fittings out of brass and provided you keep everything clean and free from oil especially from your hands the process is as Haverlock has described. I use a small pot of FR Power Flux bought from the local pound shop, it's for lead free solder but works fine with my lead cored solder. I am not a fan of the new lead free solder and find it difficult to use, so if you can try and source some cored solder that doesn't conform to the new lead free standard. At 2mm you will not need a high wattage (possibly 15-20 watts), I have a temp controlled iron so can adjust the heat. A jig to hold everything square is essential and if you are soldering near to a previous joint you may need a wet cloth or a lump of metal to act as a heat sink to protect the previous joint. Please keep us posted with your progress, many others struggle with soldering so your efforts will perhaps help them to take the plunge. Good lick Dave

Soldering 1/12 Scale Brass Railings by Ballast Commander   Posted: 2 months ago
Thanks so much for taking the time to reply. This is a carbon copy of the advice I am being given by most. Practice makes perfect - - - - - - or so they say !!!👍😉

Soldering 1/12 Scale Brass Railings by Haverlock Admiral   Posted: 2 months ago
First take a deep breath and calm down. Soldering is easy if your only using 2mm material I would get a reel of 60/40 cored solder. Use a decent sized electric soldering iron. Clean all your joints well ( use a fine abrasive like 600 wet and dry). Apply the iron to the joint then apply the solder remove solder remove iron. You made a joint repeat until you have done. Try not to burn yourself. Clean any flux with meths and an abrasive.