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>> Home > Tags > 12th scale

12th scale
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12th scale
Precedent Huntsman 34" by colinhubbard Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 months ago
Sorry to throw mud in your water, but if it's a huntsman it could be 28 , 31, or 32 ft the same applied to swordsman. But who care's as most of the kit form boats where 1/11th scale. My wife uses 1/12th scale figures from her dolls house days in her Huntsman.

1/10 scale figures 6" - 7" by GrahamP74 Captain   Posted: 4 months ago
Well I wish you well! I too am in 12th scale and the detail is what I enjoy.. I do hope you are filling the deck with pots.. that's a lot of cork wires to get!! 🍾🍾🍾

1/10 scale figures 6" - 7" by GrahamP74 Captain   Posted: 4 months ago
Hi! I've borrowed with pride an idea from ballast who is doing a blog on his 12th scale Cygnus. I have recently purchased two action figures from eBay and with a bit of paint and some yellow marigold gloves will be making them some oilskins. Not sure what boat you want them for but action figures can be painted to suit. Total cost for my figures was just over £2 (marigolds acquired from the sink....) Graham

Ship's Boats by Jerry Todd Commander   Posted: 5 months ago
Building a model ship often means building several models because most ships have boats. Constellation had six. My method for building boats is nearly the same for building larger hulls and real boats - planks over forms. I have a 1:12th scale drawing of Constellation's boat's in particular from the National Archives. They not only printed me a copy, but gave me a .tif image which I easily re-scaled to 1:36. I reproduced the lines as forms extended to a baseline so the boat could be built upside down. I drew each boat's patterns and arraged each to fit on a sheet of copy paper. I print this on a full sheet label so I can rough cut them, stick them on the form material, and then cut the forms. I had a few sheets of 1/8" balsa sheet and that's what I cut the forms from. A pine plank was used for the building-board, and marked where each station would go, then the forms were glued on making sure each was 90° to the form and square to the center-line. A note on the build-board, it doesn't have to be as wide as the boat, and should, in fact, be narrower. Then you can access inside the sheer and planking and removing the boat from the forms will be much easier. A small plank of 3/4" stock will let you get rubber bands completely around the model, and it will also fit in a vice which is very convenient. The edges of the forms are shaped so the planks will lie flat on the surface, and not teeter on the corners. Using balsa makes this easy work, though you have to be careful not to snap them off the build board. I started with the ship's 1st cutter, which is a lap-strake, or clinker-built boat. (Only the launch is carvel planked) It's frames are 1/16" thick bass strips 3/32" wide. Each frame is dipped in ammonia and bent over it's form. I put a dab of glue at the ends that would eventually be cut off to hold it to the form, but for the frames on the wine-glass and hollow forms at the ends I used rubber bands to pull them into shape. Part of the reasoning behind using balsa for the forms is if anything gets glued that shouldn't, it's the form and not the model that will give-way first. The stem, stern-post, and keel are 1/16" bass, assembled together while flat. First the top corners of the keel were planed off to make a sort of rabbet. The transom is also bass as it stays in the boat. The transom is cut taller to reach the build-board, and partially cut at what will be it's top to make it easier when it's time to detach the boat. It's glued to the stern post and the build-board, the keel is glued to each frame, and the stem is glued to the build-board. This pretty much forms the rigid skeleton of the boat. There's two ways to represent lapstrake planking on so small a model. One way is to sand each plank so it's half as thick at it's top edge as its bottom. The planks are butted on the boat, thick against thin, giving the impression of overlapped planks. I chose to actually overlap the planks because the inside of the boat is open to view. Since each plank of a lapstrake boat overlaps the one below it, each plank has to be spieled, or shaped to fit, and the boat must be planked from the keel to the sheer. I divide the length of the widest frame from the keel to the sheer into the number of planks I want, then divide the lengths of the stem and the stern by this number. You'll find the planks will get narrow forward, and flare wider back aft. You may have to experiment a bit with the number of planks so maintain at least 2 scale inches forward and not more than 5 scale inches aft, or the planking will look nonsensical and out-of-scale. I planked the cutter in 1/32" thick bass. The first planks are the garboards, next to the keel. The next plank I places a strip of card along side and used a piece of plank against the edge of the wood plank to mark the card. The marks are actually the bottom edge of the plank. Each plank is shaped on it's bottom edge to the plank before, and it's top edge is straight. Then I dip it in ammonia and clamp it in place, where "clamps" are rubber bands, blocks of wood, pins, clothes pins, whatever works. Again, a narrow build-board allows the rubber bands to pull in as you reach the sheer rather than pulling them away from the boat. Once your brain gets wrapped around spieling, the planking will move along. But don't try to do too much too fast or you'll just get frustrated and ruin everything. Take lots of breaks. The planks need to be sanded thinner at their ends, almost to nothing, depending how much of a rabbit was cut into the stem. At the stern they run right off the transom and are cut flush. You can notch the transom into step for each plank to fit into, of fill the little gaps where they overlap with putty later. Since they're getting painted, I used putty. When the planking is done up to the sheer, it's best to add rub rails and strakes while the boat's still on the forms. I then finished the cut in the transom, cut off the stem near the build-board, and nipped off each frame where it was glued to the form. Then carefully lift the boat off the forms. Some form may have come off with it, and some spots may need to be reglued. I installed frames between each of the ones the boat was built on, putting a frame about every scale foot. Seat clamps, floor boards, seats, oar notches, lifting eyes, mast steps, etc, are all added bit-by-bit. before you know it, you've got another model boat. I'll get into the launch next.

Model Engineer 12th July 1962 Scale Speed by AllenA Admiral   Posted: 5 months ago
There was a recent discussion about scale. Looking through the Model Engineer I found an interesting article on scale speed. I am sure if I read it a few more times I will begin to understand linear scale speed, Reynolds numbers and Froude Numbers etc., but then again. Happy reading.

Working out scale by Westquay Captain   Posted: 7 months ago
You want to try model railway scales, where apart from the scale and size you also have different gauges to take into account! But basically 1/12th scale is an inch to a foot. 46 foot boat, 46 inch model. smaller number on the scale, bigger model, so 1/8th would half again as big....46 inch boat, 69 inch model. Go tother way, 1/16th scale (half the size of 1/8th) 46 inch boat, 34 1/2inch model....sound familiar? Basically divide full size by the scale to get the length in feet (or metres if that's the full sized standard). If feet, then multiply by 12 to get the inches. 2.875 feet times 12 is 34 1/2. Have calculator will travel. Martin

What size planking for crash tender decks? by Westquay Captain   Posted: 7 months ago
Hi, very surprised you haven't had a reply on this topic. I'm only just going through topics and you've probably finished it by now! I would use lime (basswood) and as deck panks are usually about 3 ins. I would get some 1/4" wide in 1/12th scale lime and use black card or ebonised wood veneer (black stuff) for the caulking. About a milimetre thick is enough for the deck planks. Then I would give it a matt finish with (as Colin has just advised me) a coat or two of Ronseal matt polyurethane varnish, the oil based one. Most model shops will have basswood, especially those dealing with model ships. I also find my local "serious" doll house shop a good supplier of modelling timbers. Cheers, Martin

What size planking for crash tender decks? by robbob Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 12 months ago
Can anyone advise me on what would be an appropriate scale width for some planking detail on my 46" 1/12th scale RAF crash tender build and what wood will look best, lime, maple, spruce ?? (not mahogany, I don't want it to look like a piece of G Plan furniture!). Also a recommended supplier. Oh....and 'caulking' tips too. Thanks. Robbob.

Shannon class lifeboat by Flack Admiral   Posted: 1 year ago
Speedline are doing both a 1/16th and a 1/12th scale "Shannon". The development process is quite close to being finished and the first kits should be available in October for those who have pre-ordered. As Jarvo has said a very close to completion model was on show at Haydock Park and as usual from Speedline it is a work of art, the kit includes jet drives and motors developed by Adrian specifically for this kit. You can see quite a bit of information at: http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,51458... (you need to be a member to view the pictures) The kit won't be cheap and leans a little more to ARTR than previous Speedline offerings. Looking forward to mine!! Shaun

Search lights by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 year ago
Hi Lee I sent for two sidelight bulbs and on inspection they are very good. The wire connectors can be straightened and the white plastic casing just pulls off leaving two wires attached to resistors. Power with 12v and you have a powerful searchlight. Current should be under 100 mA as they are rated at 1W. The metal casing is 1cm diameter and 1cm long so ideal for a 12th scale model. The white plastic rear case could be modified to produce the rear of the searchlight and the wires can be heat shrinked and bent at 90deg. I got two for £2.49 off ebay, post free. 2x ULTRA XENON HID WHITE 1W HIGH POWER LED T10 501 W5W SIDELIGHT BULBS 8000K from lightec-autostyle-ltd. Look in 12v ready and select all items, then scroll down about 20 items. I am sending for some more but they appear to have a good stock. What type did you source. Dave

Speedline Shannon by Flack Admiral   Posted: 2 years ago
Went to the Ellesmere Port show today and spent some time chatting to Adrian - firm order for a 1/12th scale placed and small deposit paid. Its going to seem an age until July/August when the first kits are expected to start arriving. Its going to make a lovely model and the 1/12th at just about a metre is not going to be unmanageable. Shaun

Tyne class lifeboat by Robby Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 2 years ago
I'm building a 1:12th scale model of a tyne class lifeboat "St Cybi II" which was first stationed in Holyhead back in 1986. I've had the hull for many years (built by Martins Models) and hoping to get it finished this year.

RNLB sHANNON by Flack Admiral   Posted: 2 years ago
Hey Mark, Doesn't give a size but it is 1/12th scale so its got to be about late 30's to 40's inches. I found their Facebook page by typing "Models by Design" into the "search facebook" box at the top of the page. Cheers Shaun.

Car heater fan motors by Ballast Captain   Posted: 2 years ago
Someone has suggested I use a car heater fan motor to power my 1/12th scale Cygnus GM32 Crabber. Has anyone used this type of motor to power their own models and if so can you advise me on what make of car is a suitable donor. Spencer.

1/12th scale Cygnus GM32 Fishing Boat "EXUBERENT DH142" by Ballast Captain   Posted: 2 years ago
First of all, EXUBERENT is not a spelling mistake but a "difference" made by the owner of the actual vessel as there was another craft registered, named with the original spelling. This boat was lost at sea with it's Skipper back in 1982 off the south coast of England. I had originally intended to build a static model of this boat but due to it's demise it never got completed and now I wish to complete it as an RC model. It's scale overall length is 32" with an 11" beam. The model hull was produced by Cygnus Marine and apart from that everything else has to be built from scratch. I was wondering if anybody else who had built a similar craft could give me a few pointers as to the electrical layout, motor size, shaft size etc. I am a complete RC rookie and would appreciate any hard earned knowledge that you would care to share with me. Spencer. (AKA. Alan.)