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>> Home > Tags > 12th scale

12th scale
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12th scale
Command Boat 90 by CB90 Lieutenant   Posted: 8 days ago
Scratch built at 12th scale from pictures and profiles of the internet. The boat was originally built in Sweden a class of fast military assault craft originally developed for the Swedish Navy by Dockstavarvet Speed: 40 knots (74 km/h) Draught: 0.8 m (2 ft 7 in) Length: 15.9 m (52 ft) Overall; 14.9 (48') Complement: 3 (two officers and one engineer); Up to 21 amphibious troops with full equipment Armament: 3 × Browning M2HB machine guns; 1 × Mk 19 grenade launcher; 4 naval mines or 6 depth charges . The Model I was attracted to this boat due to its great performance and maneuverability, this was mainly due to the use of twin water jets as the main propulsion, this is a trade off with efficiency. So my start point was to collect as much information as possible about the boat this involved collecting pictures and profiles of the craft from various sources. Eventually I found some plans of sort :- My Dad was a boat builder in the days of wooden yachts, and had showed me how to make plans and frames from a line drawing. I went about this first by creating a prototype about 24 in long out of light ply. I then created full size plans of the model to be made. Pictures of small prototype finally painted plain green. The Main model Used my computer to print out the frames onto paper, cut them out and used them as templates for the ply ribs. The construction was simple chine style, with 1.5 mm ply. I tried to build jet drives but failed to produce a effective unit. So reverted to propshafts which worked out well with better control and the bot can spin on it own axis by putting one engine in reverse the other in forward and adjusting the twin rudders. That it for now, hope it was of some interest

Crab Pots in progress ! by Ballast Captain   Posted: 9 days ago
1/12th scale Crab pots built out of Champagne cork wires, plastic tubing, garlic netting, wire sheathing etc. Don't know what they will fish like !!!😊😉

1/16 figures by Colin H. Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 11 days ago
Hi there, I have often used 1/12th scale dolls from my wife's collection. As they come in all sizes depicting various ages they can be dressed to suit your needs. Look at what's available in any dolls house shop. They also do a range in 1/24th scale. Hope you find your crew soon, cheers Colin.

CB90 by CB90 Lieutenant   Posted: 12 days ago
[Score: 7/10] 52"/5000g CB90 Capable of 8mph and a runtime of 25mins Twin Propellors (3 Blade 45mm) Direct Drive to a Graupner 700 Turbos (3 Blade) Powered by NiCad (8.4v) 4Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through Mtroniks (25Amps) ESC - Comments: Scratch built at 12th scale from pictures and profiles of the original boat, hope to upgrade batteries to 11.1v lipo. The boat was originally built in Sweden a class of fast military assault craft originally developed for the Swedish Navy by Dockstavarvet The CB90 is an exceptionally fast and agile boat. Speed: 40 knots (74 km/h) Draught: 0.8 m (2 ft 7 in) Length: 15.9 m (52 ft) Overall; 14.9 (48') Waterline Builders: Dockstavarvet, Gotlandsvarvet In commission: 1991 Complement: 3 (two officers and one engineer); Up to 21 amphibious troops with full equipment Armament: 3 × Browning M2HB machine guns; 1 × Mk 19 grenade launcher; 4 naval mines or 6 depth charges

Inner Wheel by rolfman2000 Admiral   Posted: 1 month ago
[Score: 5/10] 32"/3500g Inner Wheel Capable of 5mph and a runtime of 45mins Twin Propellors (3 Blade 35mm) Direct Drive to a Graupner 700 x 2 (3 Blade) Powered by LiPoly (11.1v) 5Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through Hobbywing (150Amps) ESC - Comments: She is a 1/12th semi scale Brede model of the Poole lifeboat used for many years. She is constantly being modified and improved.

1 / 12 th Scale Figures by AndyG009 Lieutenant   Posted: 3 months ago
Any ideas where one can get a range of different 1/12th scale figures ?

Precedent Huntsman 34" by Colin H. Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 8 months ago
Sorry to throw mud in your water, but if it's a huntsman it could be 28 , 31, or 32 ft the same applied to swordsman. But who care's as most of the kit form boats where 1/11th scale. My wife uses 1/12th scale figures from her dolls house days in her Huntsman.

1/10 scale figures 6" - 7" by GrahamP74 Captain   Posted: 9 months ago
Well I wish you well! I too am in 12th scale and the detail is what I enjoy.. I do hope you are filling the deck with pots.. that's a lot of cork wires to get!! 🍾🍾🍾

1/10 scale figures 6" - 7" by GrahamP74 Captain   Posted: 9 months ago
Hi! I've borrowed with pride an idea from ballast who is doing a blog on his 12th scale Cygnus. I have recently purchased two action figures from eBay and with a bit of paint and some yellow marigold gloves will be making them some oilskins. Not sure what boat you want them for but action figures can be painted to suit. Total cost for my figures was just over £2 (marigolds acquired from the sink....) Graham

Ship's Boats by Jerry Todd Commander   Posted: 9 months ago
Building a model ship often means building several models because most ships have boats. Constellation had six. My method for building boats is nearly the same for building larger hulls and real boats - planks over forms. I have a 1:12th scale drawing of Constellation's boat's in particular from the National Archives. They not only printed me a copy, but gave me a .tif image which I easily re-scaled to 1:36. I reproduced the lines as forms extended to a baseline so the boat could be built upside down. I drew each boat's patterns and arraged each to fit on a sheet of copy paper. I print this on a full sheet label so I can rough cut them, stick them on the form material, and then cut the forms. I had a few sheets of 1/8" balsa sheet and that's what I cut the forms from. A pine plank was used for the building-board, and marked where each station would go, then the forms were glued on making sure each was 90° to the form and square to the center-line. A note on the build-board, it doesn't have to be as wide as the boat, and should, in fact, be narrower. Then you can access inside the sheer and planking and removing the boat from the forms will be much easier. A small plank of 3/4" stock will let you get rubber bands completely around the model, and it will also fit in a vice which is very convenient. The edges of the forms are shaped so the planks will lie flat on the surface, and not teeter on the corners. Using balsa makes this easy work, though you have to be careful not to snap them off the build board. I started with the ship's 1st cutter, which is a lap-strake, or clinker-built boat. (Only the launch is carvel planked) It's frames are 1/16" thick bass strips 3/32" wide. Each frame is dipped in ammonia and bent over it's form. I put a dab of glue at the ends that would eventually be cut off to hold it to the form, but for the frames on the wine-glass and hollow forms at the ends I used rubber bands to pull them into shape. Part of the reasoning behind using balsa for the forms is if anything gets glued that shouldn't, it's the form and not the model that will give-way first. The stem, stern-post, and keel are 1/16" bass, assembled together while flat. First the top corners of the keel were planed off to make a sort of rabbet. The transom is also bass as it stays in the boat. The transom is cut taller to reach the build-board, and partially cut at what will be it's top to make it easier when it's time to detach the boat. It's glued to the stern post and the build-board, the keel is glued to each frame, and the stem is glued to the build-board. This pretty much forms the rigid skeleton of the boat. There's two ways to represent lapstrake planking on so small a model. One way is to sand each plank so it's half as thick at it's top edge as its bottom. The planks are butted on the boat, thick against thin, giving the impression of overlapped planks. I chose to actually overlap the planks because the inside of the boat is open to view. Since each plank of a lapstrake boat overlaps the one below it, each plank has to be spieled, or shaped to fit, and the boat must be planked from the keel to the sheer. I divide the length of the widest frame from the keel to the sheer into the number of planks I want, then divide the lengths of the stem and the stern by this number. You'll find the planks will get narrow forward, and flare wider back aft. You may have to experiment a bit with the number of planks so maintain at least 2 scale inches forward and not more than 5 scale inches aft, or the planking will look nonsensical and out-of-scale. I planked the cutter in 1/32" thick bass. The first planks are the garboards, next to the keel. The next plank I places a strip of card along side and used a piece of plank against the edge of the wood plank to mark the card. The marks are actually the bottom edge of the plank. Each plank is shaped on it's bottom edge to the plank before, and it's top edge is straight. Then I dip it in ammonia and clamp it in place, where "clamps" are rubber bands, blocks of wood, pins, clothes pins, whatever works. Again, a narrow build-board allows the rubber bands to pull in as you reach the sheer rather than pulling them away from the boat. Once your brain gets wrapped around spieling, the planking will move along. But don't try to do too much too fast or you'll just get frustrated and ruin everything. Take lots of breaks. The planks need to be sanded thinner at their ends, almost to nothing, depending how much of a rabbit was cut into the stem. At the stern they run right off the transom and are cut flush. You can notch the transom into step for each plank to fit into, of fill the little gaps where they overlap with putty later. Since they're getting painted, I used putty. When the planking is done up to the sheer, it's best to add rub rails and strakes while the boat's still on the forms. I then finished the cut in the transom, cut off the stem near the build-board, and nipped off each frame where it was glued to the form. Then carefully lift the boat off the forms. Some form may have come off with it, and some spots may need to be reglued. I installed frames between each of the ones the boat was built on, putting a frame about every scale foot. Seat clamps, floor boards, seats, oar notches, lifting eyes, mast steps, etc, are all added bit-by-bit. before you know it, you've got another model boat. I'll get into the launch next.

Model Engineer 12th July 1962 Scale Speed by AllenA Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 9 months ago
There was a recent discussion about scale. Looking through the Model Engineer I found an interesting article on scale speed. I am sure if I read it a few more times I will begin to understand linear scale speed, Reynolds numbers and Froude Numbers etc., but then again. Happy reading.

Working out scale by Westquay Captain   Posted: 11 months ago
You want to try model railway scales, where apart from the scale and size you also have different gauges to take into account! But basically 1/12th scale is an inch to a foot. 46 foot boat, 46 inch model. smaller number on the scale, bigger model, so 1/8th would half again as big....46 inch boat, 69 inch model. Go tother way, 1/16th scale (half the size of 1/8th) 46 inch boat, 34 1/2inch model....sound familiar? Basically divide full size by the scale to get the length in feet (or metres if that's the full sized standard). If feet, then multiply by 12 to get the inches. 2.875 feet times 12 is 34 1/2. Have calculator will travel. Martin

What size planking for crash tender decks? by Westquay Captain   Posted: 11 months ago
Hi, very surprised you haven't had a reply on this topic. I'm only just going through topics and you've probably finished it by now! I would use lime (basswood) and as deck panks are usually about 3 ins. I would get some 1/4" wide in 1/12th scale lime and use black card or ebonised wood veneer (black stuff) for the caulking. About a milimetre thick is enough for the deck planks. Then I would give it a matt finish with (as Colin has just advised me) a coat or two of Ronseal matt polyurethane varnish, the oil based one. Most model shops will have basswood, especially those dealing with model ships. I also find my local "serious" doll house shop a good supplier of modelling timbers. Cheers, Martin

What size planking for crash tender decks? by robbob Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 year ago
Can anyone advise me on what would be an appropriate scale width for some planking detail on my 46" 1/12th scale RAF crash tender build and what wood will look best, lime, maple, spruce ?? (not mahogany, I don't want it to look like a piece of G Plan furniture!). Also a recommended supplier. Oh....and 'caulking' tips too. Thanks. Robbob.

Shannon class lifeboat by Flack Admiral   Posted: 2 years ago
Speedline are doing both a 1/16th and a 1/12th scale "Shannon". The development process is quite close to being finished and the first kits should be available in October for those who have pre-ordered. As Jarvo has said a very close to completion model was on show at Haydock Park and as usual from Speedline it is a work of art, the kit includes jet drives and motors developed by Adrian specifically for this kit. You can see quite a bit of information at:,51458... (you need to be a member to view the pictures) The kit won't be cheap and leans a little more to ARTR than previous Speedline offerings. Looking forward to mine!! Shaun