Cookies used in this website are gluten free, wheat free and dairy free. By using this website you agree to our use of cookies. More Info
Guest
Login Below
Join Us On Social Media!
   
Get The Model Boats App!
Apple App Store
Android app on Google Play


Help Support This Website
£
or enter custom amount

(Non Contributor)

Help support this free
website and donate.



£285 a year is needed to keep the website and apps online. Please consider donating £5 or more to help towards these fees.
All donations are securely managed through PayPal. Amounts donated are not published online.

Many thanks for your kind support.

Model Boats Website Team


Donation History
November 2017: 8 people
October 2017: 9 people
September 2017: 15 people
August 2017: 10 people
July 2017: 16 people
June 2017: 8 people
May 2017: 8 people
April 2017: 23 people
March 2017: 3 people


Unique Visitors This Month

Website Members

Terms and Conditions
Privacy Policy
Advertising
Contact


Model Boats Website
Active Users (4)
Login or Register
To Remove This Ad
Login or Register
To Remove This Ad
>> Home > Tags > 16 scale

16 scale
1:12 scale
1/12th scale
1/48 scale
12 scale
12th scale
16th scale
scale model
16 scale
1:16 scale figures for a model trawler ? by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 5 days ago
Looking for crew for your Tiger were you?? 😉 BTW: if you're going to put a sound module in the Tiger tank and want genuine sound bites: start up, (running with squeaking tracks), and stop, idle, shut down, gun fire, heavy machine gun fire: I have a whole directory of such sounds in wav or mp3 format. Can send if you want. Cheers Doug 😎

1:16 scale figures for a model trawler ? by Midlife306 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 5 days ago
Here’s some examples👍 https://www.forgebeartanks.com/store/c25/Tank_Crew.html Cheers Wayne

1:16 scale figures for a model trawler ? by Midlife306 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 5 days ago
WW2 tank crew tend to be 1/16 or 120mm scale👍 Cheers Wayne

1:16 scale figures for a model trawler ? by marky Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 6 days ago
i mentioned this method before on another site and was shot down about copyright ,anyway method is if you have a figure take it to a copy shop where it can be scanned and then 3D print at the scale required the other way is to get cheap toy soldiers as in toy story cut them into bits mix and match limbs scan the hybrids and print at the required scale .the asda up in my neck of the woods has a scanner that you stand in and get a model of yourself printed no copyright issues all the crewv could be clones of the scanned person

1:16 scale figures for a model trawler ? by bilzin Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 6 days ago
Looked just about everywhere so far and the only ones in that scale are a tad "pantomimish" (won't mention any manufacturers) I had the crew for my USCG lifeboat made by Realmodelpilots.com but they are a bit pricey although the detail is magnificent Any suggestions would be gratefully received Bill

3d printing by Midlife306 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Top prize to Marky, it is indeed a willys jeep, I found a 1/10 scale model on Thingiverse, I'm printing everything at 63% to get 1/16 scale. In comparison to the LCM3 it isn't taking very long to print, dependant on how it turns out I may print a few 😎👍 More pics tonight🎈 The printer runs off a transformer at 12 volts, to be honest I don't pay any attention to power consumption 🤓 Cheers Wayne

3d printing by Midlife306 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi Selwyn, Like Delboy says, absolutely anything is feasible, my print volume in mm LWH is 220 x 220 x 240, I printed a 1/16 scale LCM3 landing craft, its in about 30 pieces that were all glued together, it took approx 6 weeks to print with the printer running 12+ hours per day... Take a look at this video of a printed ship, this guy doesn't mess around! https://youtu.be/QaIjdgTiP0o Enjoy Cheers Wayne

3d printing by Midlife306 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Ok I've cheated, the 110mm diameter soil tube in the middle fits the bill perfectly, I'll take it into work tomorrow & get the ends squared up & shortened by 20mm. Here you have it, a 1/16 scale V2 rocket👍 Cheers Wayne

3d printing by Midlife306 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hehe, the 50's are currently around 1/16 but give me the length at the scale you need & I'll tweak the stl for you. I'm not sure how I'll raise the V2 yet, I'll have to do some research..... Cheers Wayne

3d printing by Midlife306 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
I've been busy on the printer recently, the LCM3 is finished just waiting motors & gun turrets,. I'm well underway printing a Tiger 1 tank to go on it (just) I'm just suffering death by tracks, I've over 200 to fettle & fit together. I've just finished printing a 1/16 scale V1 flying bomb & Ive just started on a 1/16 scale V2, it's a big bugger!!! Cheers Wayne

RAF rescue launch shape by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi Marky, don't know where you saw that (Eagle Eye😉) but IF correct then so is your maths👍 BUT: if correct then 20" x 24 = 480" or 40 feet?? Pretty small rescue launch! 😲 Then again; wadda I know? Taking 68feet as an average of the various HSL versions (excluding the Fairmile) 68x12=816, 816/20=40.8 scale. Therefore at 30" the scale would be ~27:1. Cheers Doug😎

Stabilit Express by Midlife306 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 months ago
I think those doublers will need explosives to get them off... I've hit a bit of a roadblock with the big K7, I need to get Donald built up so I can position the steering wheel & dash correctly, the animatronic resin upper torso & arms I bought came with no instructions or info on what servos to use. I got some micro servos & they didn't fit, Dremel out & all fits now but I'm now struggling with connecting the servo arm to the rotating neck. I'll suss it out eventually but I need a rest. I've been doing bits on my 1/12 scale K7 in the background, if all goes well it should be ready for paint in a couple of weeks. As normal I've been waiting for parts to arrive from China, the brushless motor & esc arrived today for the blue rigger, I can make a start on that soon.. I've just finished printing the parts for the cabin for a Springer tug hull I got from Sonar & I've just started printing the first parts of a WW2 landing craft, its 1/16 scale nearly a metre long, I guess I'll be making a tank for it when it's completed. Then there's the Robbe Diabolo, on the instructions it says to use self tapping screws to hold the plastic dual rudders in place. No good to me as I've upgraded to dual aluminium rudders, these buggers need bolts! Trouble is the waterproof electronics box is used as a doubler for the central transom, when it's glued into place there isn't any room to access where the rudder bolts come through the doublers, ohhh the joy of problem solving.... So I'm keeping busy but my butter is spread a bit too thin. Cheers Wayne

The Launch by Jerry Todd Commander   Posted: 5 months ago
As soon as the cutter was off the build-board, I started on the launch. The launch is the largest of the ship's boats and the only one of them that's carvel planked. The build board was cut narrower for the reason spoken of earlier. Since the frame spacing was the same, I could reuse most of the marks. The stem, keel, sternpost, and transom plus a sternpost knee, were assembled. The forms were cut from balsa again, sanded to the line and rough beveled, then glued to the board. The ribs are 1/16" thick x 1/8" wide bass again. This time I didn't glue them to the forms at all, they're only helg by the rubber bands. Once they were on the forms, the keel assembly was glued to the ribs and the build board and planking commenced. When the planking was done, the stem and transome were cut free and hull lifted off the forms. The ribs between the ribs were added. The drawings of Constellation's boat didn't show anything more than their lines. I had little information as to their interior and hardware details. For the launch, I did know she carried a 12 pound boat howitzer and some information on that which gave me a little more about the boat's interior. Using Ivan as a guide (He's a 1:35 scale WWII Russian sailor and the model's first of some 30-40 eventual crewmen) I determined there needed to be a deck in the boat so that went in, but first I painted the bilges of the boat as I'd never be able to get in there after the deck went on. The launch was coppered. I used peel-and-stick aluminum duct tape to "copper" the bottom, and painted it copper. I have a 1:36 scale British frigate in the works, and this is how I intend to "copper" her as it's less than 1/4 the cost of Constellation's real copper. The launch has special tracks and rails in her for handling the gun. The gun can be shifted fore and aft, and the field carriage can be tossed in the sheets, and rolled forward on tracks of it's own for taking ashore. We're still a long way from Higgins boats here folks. 😉 There's more details to add, to boat boats; hardware, water casks, thole pins, oars, sails, etc etc etc. There's also 4 more boats to build; the 2nd cutter, whaleboat, and two quarter-boats just alike.

Ship's Boats by Jerry Todd Commander   Posted: 5 months ago
Building a model ship often means building several models because most ships have boats. Constellation had six. My method for building boats is nearly the same for building larger hulls and real boats - planks over forms. I have a 1:12th scale drawing of Constellation's boat's in particular from the National Archives. They not only printed me a copy, but gave me a .tif image which I easily re-scaled to 1:36. I reproduced the lines as forms extended to a baseline so the boat could be built upside down. I drew each boat's patterns and arraged each to fit on a sheet of copy paper. I print this on a full sheet label so I can rough cut them, stick them on the form material, and then cut the forms. I had a few sheets of 1/8" balsa sheet and that's what I cut the forms from. A pine plank was used for the building-board, and marked where each station would go, then the forms were glued on making sure each was 90° to the form and square to the center-line. A note on the build-board, it doesn't have to be as wide as the boat, and should, in fact, be narrower. Then you can access inside the sheer and planking and removing the boat from the forms will be much easier. A small plank of 3/4" stock will let you get rubber bands completely around the model, and it will also fit in a vice which is very convenient. The edges of the forms are shaped so the planks will lie flat on the surface, and not teeter on the corners. Using balsa makes this easy work, though you have to be careful not to snap them off the build board. I started with the ship's 1st cutter, which is a lap-strake, or clinker-built boat. (Only the launch is carvel planked) It's frames are 1/16" thick bass strips 3/32" wide. Each frame is dipped in ammonia and bent over it's form. I put a dab of glue at the ends that would eventually be cut off to hold it to the form, but for the frames on the wine-glass and hollow forms at the ends I used rubber bands to pull them into shape. Part of the reasoning behind using balsa for the forms is if anything gets glued that shouldn't, it's the form and not the model that will give-way first. The stem, stern-post, and keel are 1/16" bass, assembled together while flat. First the top corners of the keel were planed off to make a sort of rabbet. The transom is also bass as it stays in the boat. The transom is cut taller to reach the build-board, and partially cut at what will be it's top to make it easier when it's time to detach the boat. It's glued to the stern post and the build-board, the keel is glued to each frame, and the stem is glued to the build-board. This pretty much forms the rigid skeleton of the boat. There's two ways to represent lapstrake planking on so small a model. One way is to sand each plank so it's half as thick at it's top edge as its bottom. The planks are butted on the boat, thick against thin, giving the impression of overlapped planks. I chose to actually overlap the planks because the inside of the boat is open to view. Since each plank of a lapstrake boat overlaps the one below it, each plank has to be spieled, or shaped to fit, and the boat must be planked from the keel to the sheer. I divide the length of the widest frame from the keel to the sheer into the number of planks I want, then divide the lengths of the stem and the stern by this number. You'll find the planks will get narrow forward, and flare wider back aft. You may have to experiment a bit with the number of planks so maintain at least 2 scale inches forward and not more than 5 scale inches aft, or the planking will look nonsensical and out-of-scale. I planked the cutter in 1/32" thick bass. The first planks are the garboards, next to the keel. The next plank I places a strip of card along side and used a piece of plank against the edge of the wood plank to mark the card. The marks are actually the bottom edge of the plank. Each plank is shaped on it's bottom edge to the plank before, and it's top edge is straight. Then I dip it in ammonia and clamp it in place, where "clamps" are rubber bands, blocks of wood, pins, clothes pins, whatever works. Again, a narrow build-board allows the rubber bands to pull in as you reach the sheer rather than pulling them away from the boat. Once your brain gets wrapped around spieling, the planking will move along. But don't try to do too much too fast or you'll just get frustrated and ruin everything. Take lots of breaks. The planks need to be sanded thinner at their ends, almost to nothing, depending how much of a rabbit was cut into the stem. At the stern they run right off the transom and are cut flush. You can notch the transom into step for each plank to fit into, of fill the little gaps where they overlap with putty later. Since they're getting painted, I used putty. When the planking is done up to the sheer, it's best to add rub rails and strakes while the boat's still on the forms. I then finished the cut in the transom, cut off the stem near the build-board, and nipped off each frame where it was glued to the form. Then carefully lift the boat off the forms. Some form may have come off with it, and some spots may need to be reglued. I installed frames between each of the ones the boat was built on, putting a frame about every scale foot. Seat clamps, floor boards, seats, oar notches, lifting eyes, mast steps, etc, are all added bit-by-bit. before you know it, you've got another model boat. I'll get into the launch next.

Scale Sailing Association by sunworksco Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 5 months ago
Hello! What a beautiful sail boat! I see many hours in your endeavor. I'm planning to build a 1/16th scale circa 1933 America's Cup Whirlwind sailboat, using a fiberglass molded hull. I'm trying to find some old wooden window blinds, to saw cut into narrow strips for the decks. I'm going to build the cabins out of brass sheet. Have you ever used wooden window blinds for boat builds? Thank you?