Have started renovating old kit build of the 93/94 firefloat with no fittings. Can someone please help with paint colours, the Red and Black on hull are they both Matt. On the deck is the Dark Grey Matt non slip and are the roofs with the fire monitors the same. The rest of the roofs are they dark grey Matt or gloss. The side are they Matt or gloss light grey. Also has anyone got the main dimensions on the lift davit and the tow hook. Any other info on this build would be appreciated as am copying from two old black and white photos. The model am building is 35” long and I think 16:1 scale.
I am the secretary of our boat club and about a month ago I was notified by a member of the public that he had found the superstructure of a model lifeboat on his way home in the Basingstoke area. I now have that superstructure in my possession but asked around all our members and loaclly but no-one has any idea who may be the owner. It is from a 1:16 scale Tamar Class Model Slipway boat and the build quality is pretty good standard but it has suffered some damge but I do also have the some of the parts. It appears that it might have fallen from the back of someone's trailer behind a car, bike or mobility scooter - yes some of our older members now take their boats to our lake that way. However the Model Slipway boat is 1000mm long and a beam of 320mm and with motors, batteries and ballast would weigh quite a bit. The superstucture of the boat is named but I will hold back on that information until hopefully someone can come along and identify it as theirs. So if you know anyone who might have lost it near Basingstoke, Hampshire (Southern England for those who might not know where this is) please get back to me. Alan
i had some portholes printed at the work and the perspex infills laser cut ,if you can access the technology why not use it .whatever happened to Phil ?who was the 3D printing guru ? And was printing a landing craft 1/16 th scale maybe printed himself into a corner. May have the name wrong ,chemical soup still mucking about with the old brain .
Right well, just to show I am doing what i said, here are the three crew members so far. The boss man is pretty much done. He has his binoculars and arms set to hold them, but cast separately as they would be too difficult to cast all in one, as would the guy driving the boat. His arms and jumper haven't been finish shaped yet which , with the difficult camera ('phone) angle makes him look a bit pinheaded, but he isn't really. He has a yet to be finished Forage cap. Finally is the cool dude. No hat, relaxing on the tow hook deck away from the others, thinking of that little floozey back at base, smoking a roll-up. He still has a way to go. Currently he is being padded out from the ghastly superhero crap that the kids seem to love these days. I hated all that tosh when I was kid, never mind now! All I ever did with a marvel comic was light the fire with it! So, there you have 3 4 3/8th" figures. The other two are in the engine 'ole running the Meteorites, so out of sight. No idea of costs yet until my caster man sees them. I hope you might find them useful as 1/16th scale figures. Cheers, Martin
Well, the die got here today, so the shaft is now done, all threaded M3x 0.6. Still ludicrously hot, so nowt gets done outside, except after about 7 in the evening. I've also got 4 figures from this morning's boot fair that I have already started converting into RAF boat crew. Huge amounts of Milliput epoxy putty later, the action figures will have RAF uniforms and the odd hat, suitable for 1/16th scale Crash Tenders, etc. Once done, my slot racing chum will cast them in resin and they will be available for sale. Don't know how much till he gives me a price for casting. Cheers, Martin
Doug, blimey your lathe looks better than mine. I was just under the impression that you didn't have one. If you make a 0.5mm dip in the end of a bit of silver steel with a centre drill or even the centre in the tailstock just screwed (pressed) into the end of the silver steel, then turn a long taper down to the dip, the remaining edge will give you a nice ring impression. As to the die, I have removed the chuck and used the end of the tailstock shaft to keep it square before or even just opened up the chuck jaws until the die sits nicely on them, but with the dieholder to hold on to. You only need some surface to keep the die square to the shaft. Good luck with both jobs. A 7mm ish screw head in 1/16th scale is 0.4 mm, but half a mil will do. Cheers, Martin
Evening, Doug, or is it morning? Just had a well earned rest having had the family round for Fathers' Day. Now catching up with the pootah. BTW, I had a garden full of blue and purple Lupins till the big breeze blew 'em all down recently. My star was a plant I didn't knowingly sew and that was an amazing mixture on the same stems of purple alternating with yellow. Gorgeous. Anyway, Kakos. Yes I have quite a few and as I was given 2 original little Marinecraft hulls, I have earmarked two of my mint, new in red boxes Kakos for those with little AAA 3-at-a- time flat packs which even have switches. I wish we could still get Ever-Ready or Vidor batteries. Remember them? Can get scans though and my Sea Urchin has a styrene home made AA flat case ready for the daughter to print me out an Ever Ready bell flat pack, just like yours. The brass contacts aren't a problem for an old metal basher like me. Your Sea Scout looks nice and I would say at 24" it would be about 1/16th to 1/12th. 24 feet would be a reasonable size for a sport fisherman or inshore cruiser. But in 1/16th scale at 32 feet I would say the style of the model and the use of the boat would be best represented by that combo. Just looking at some info on the FlySky Tx I've got coming (it's already been posted) and find it uses no fewer than 8 AA cells...12volts! Ye Gods, why? OK, I can get two packs of NiMhs, but then that wouldn't be 12 volts, would it? It would be 9.6Volts. Would it even work? So, on further checking, I notice that several people have gone for the LiPo path, which means a 4s at a more acceptable 11.1Volts. Now I also see that a few have gone for the LiFe option, which I much prefer the sound of as they are a lower fire risk and keep a charge in storage for ages. But they would only be 9.9Volts as LiFe cells are 3.3 volts each. Would 9.9 volts be enough I wonder for a nominally 12 volt Tx. I'm assuming that if people with no objection to NiMhs have been using those for the rechargeability, then the Tx will, in fact, accept 9.6Volts. So, logically, a 9.9Volt LiFe would be OK, do you agree? I'm thinking down the line a bit after I'm used to it. My Imax magic blue box of chargery caters for LiFe cells too. Steering teddies, et al, yeah, I can come up with some mechanical magic. My nickname with little gent, Lothar, at Wolfsburg was Mekanist (spelling), as I was always making little mechanisms for VW and SEAT cars. I made a rolling TV monitor that replaced the passenger airbag in the Passat CM2, which also had headrest TVs for back seat passengers and a wireless internet laptop built in to the rear seat central arm rest. A palm computer could come out of the dash using a mechanism that I designed and made and for which VW got a patent, with me as nominated inventor! Never made me a penny extra of course, but it was nice to know. I did a static model of a 1/12th scale Riva where, if you turned the model Cadillac (yes it is, really!) steering wheel, the rudders moved via a worm and wheel steering box and two home made Universal joints! Gawd knows why. I just thought it might win me some column inches in Classic Boat....Nah! You might find that 6" figures are more available for 1/12th scale boats than 4 1/2" figures for 1/16th, but I have to find or even make some for my Crash Tender. I look out for dollies at boot fairs and Sunday markets. I got a very square jawed geezer, 12" tall for my 1/6th scale Darby One Design and he fits, thanks to bendy bits. On your sports fisherman you need some arrogant bastard to be standing with one arm up on the screen and just the one on the wheel. Think Audi driver in a boat. Up yer arse or in yer way, but always thinking the sun shines out of his primary orifice. Keep my socks dry? I was bought a pair of Granddad socks by the two little horrors today along with a chocolate Marmite pot and a Smurfs do Pop CD, which they insisted I play during the barbie! They've done the Smurf wind up since they were old enough to crawl because they know I despise the Dutch ghouls Right, bedtime I suppose. Compost and Busy Lizzies tomorrow, she tells me. Yes, Ramona, my love.... Cheers, Martin
If I did make a 1/16th scale clinker wherry, Gleaner, to be precise, would anyone on here be interested in using it as a master for a GRP mould? Fee would be 2 free mouldings. Martin edited to say, "And the original back!"
Well, OK, maybe not a million, but more than you can shake a stick at and rather nice to boot, provided you want 1/24th for action or 1/72nd and 1/35th for statics. I really don't know when this geezer sleeps. mtbhulls.com Nice quality work. Shame, I am a 1/16th scale man. Martin
All I get is a single page with dozens of headings on it, each another single page and if I click home I get Not found. Not impressive. I get no sign in/log on, etc. I think some of the items are 3Dprinted, but they are very cheap, so I reckon he has his own machines. My son does and says he can produce stuff cheaper by far than Shapeways.,etc. The guy behind Mastman seems to be unusually young, so 3D print would seem to be all he knows. But he needs to improve that wherry out of all recognition before he deserves to sell even one. Wherries were occasionally painted green where that one in the pictures above is blue. A read of Black Sailed Traders is all you need to know about wherries and it has good drawings of Gleaner, a "proper" clinker wherry. It has sections, so any model can be done from it. I am considering making one in 1/16th scale, using one layer of 1/16th" sheet ply for the twist, with a second to thicken the plank to a scale 2" thickness. It would be immensely strong too. I'm almost looking forward to it now. Cheers, Martin
I have the following plans available for sale:- Tug Jan by SMB-Bauplan 1:25 two sheets £12.50 MV Benarty by Nexus Plans 1/96 six sheets £25.00 Clan Ross by Martins Models 1/96 two sheets £15.00 SS Jason by Model Maker Plans service 1/16" to 1 foot 2 sheets £15.00 International 6 metre Class model yacht by Marine Modelling 1 sheet £10.00 Fairey Marine Huntsman by Vic Smeed 1 1/2" to 1 foot two sheets £15.00 ClochLight Clyde Puffer Model Maker plans 7 sheets £25.00 SS Chelford 3 island Steamer 1/8" to 1 foot 3 sheets £15.00 Associazione Navimodellisti Bolognesi Agip Livorno Scale 1:200 5 sheets £20.00 Any one interested or would like to make an offer please let me know. Many Thanks
I spent a couple of hours making a yoke or bow, for the fore tops'l yard. This is the thing that attaches to the yard and connects to the parrell. The main tops'l yard's and all three lower's were made from aluminum, but the last one took three tries to get and came out, well meh. I tried a different idea in their construction this time, since my soldering has gotten better. I cut some brass rod and hammered it square, or mostly square; then bent it to the right shape as my pattern. I hammered the ends a bit more to widen them and used files to shape them. I cut a notch down the middle of some rod about double the diameter of the first one, then cut off about an 1/8" giving me two half-round pieces. These got soldiered top and bottom to the center of the bow, forming the swell that the parrell pin goes through. After some filing and cleaning up, I drilled the hole in the swell and 1/16" holes in the ends. Then something happened with the drill press that startled me, I jumped, and the part flew off somewhere. I spent the day "cleaning" the shop trying to find it with no luck. So tonight I did it all again, but with some hope of finding the errant part eventually, I went about making the mizzen bow instead. when it came time to drill, I dug out the 2-direction sliding vice thing for the drill press, instead of holding it by hand with pliers, and everything came out fine with no unscheduled flights. The parrell shown is for the fore tops'l yard which is why I was making that bow, I haven't made the mizzen tops'l yard parrell yet. I do need to enlarge the hole slightly because the bow is supposed to go all the way on the post more than shown. Mounted on it's yard, the chain is the tye for the tops;l halyard, and the bit of line is the end of one of the main tops'l yard braces. The little nuts and bolts are 0-80 x 1" hex head bolts I bought 100 of years ago with some matching nuts, and some "scale nuts."
Cheers, KMB. I couldn't find one either. Odd, because I once bought a pair of built boats (Albions) and then sold them when I moved as I had no space. And they were both GRP hulls. Wish I had them now! Although I still find a carvel Wherry somehow wrong. I have Wherries and Waterways, but for sheer atmosphere Black Sailed Traders, by Roy Clark, is the one for me and it also has good drawings of Gleaner in it. I can't personally see why the Thames Barge is so much more popular. The Wherry sailed better with fewer sails and crew and I reckon it was a much more attractive shape AND they had a lot of real races for them, too. Looks like I might have to make a hull and offer its use to a GRP moulder as a pattern in exchange for the first decent moulding. Then I can race a wooden one against a GRP one. In 1/16th scale it'll be 40" long, which is a nice size with a beam of 10 1/2". And it's the same scale as my Vanity cutter and my Crash Tender. Martin