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Laser cut kit from Barracuda RC Boats, N Carolina, USA. Baltic birch plywood false keel, ribs/frames, hull sheathing, deck and cabins. No formal plans; I was able to source a handful of B&W archival photos from the USCG website. Fortunately I was able to procure a motherload of archival photos and a few hard to read layout drawings from Mr. Timothy Dring, LCDR, USN (Ret.). He is co-author of "American Coastal Rescue Craft", which is the "bible" if you will, of such. I do sometimes thank the internet. I am certain that without his assistance, my efforts on this wouldn't have been as enjoyable. The kit was also void of fittings, which I was aware of prior to purchase, so I invested in a 3D printer. That I've used to a limited degree, due to searching for parts in the correct file format is mind-numbing! I have globally sourced fittings; USA, UK, ASIA. As a matter of fact, the searchlights I got from this Model Boat Shop were 3D printed, and I was able to fit 5mm LEDs into them. I'd like to get a couple more and put some superbright 12v LED drone lamps in them for use on my 35" towboat. Many deck fittings are handmade when possible, the cleats and fairleads are from Cornwall Boats, UK. (Very reasonable & diverse source, if you didn't already know.) I try to keep wood natural when detail allows it, as I never have enjoyed painting over natural grain. Her decks are covered with 1/16" scribed basswood sheathing from earthandtree.com, which is normally used for wainscoting dollhouse walls. All my boats that have wood decks are covered with scribed sheathing; I feel it makes 'em look "sexy". Believe it or not, the idea for wainscoting came from finding 3/16" at Hobby Lobby's dollhouse department. A couple of feet x 3.5" was about $16, so I found a less expensive source that also had more selections (earthandtree.com) The rail stanchions are 3/16" square dowels with 2 corners rounded over on the Dremel router table. Leaving their base square, I fit a square peg into a round hole with no glue to facilitate removal, and also for ease of replacing broken ones, which is inevitable. The rail is 1/16" brass rod that also is readily removable. The stern rail is stationary on the lower half, and the chain & wire stanchions are removable for towing ops. The deck coamings and knuckle are African mahogany strips, other mahogany accents came from leftovers of a prior build. I also try on all my boats, to incorporate vintage leftover scribed sheathing salvaged from my late Father's builds, so I know he's got a part in my builds. Note-the raised deck section between the aft ladder trunk and towing bit is actually a laminated deckhouse he made for the Frigate Essex. Unfortunately, he was unable to build that kit due to Alzheimer's disease in his latter years. (I blame that mostly on the hazardous fumes from the airplane "dope" & glue he used when building RC planes in the 60s & 70s.) I use polyurethane instead of resin due to COPD, 37 yrs of smoking, I quit 2.5 yrs ago. The driveline consists of: 775 Johnson DC main (3500 RPM@12V), Harbor Models 4mm x 14" shaft w/brass stuffing box, Raboesch 75mm 5-blade brass wheel (not OEM), 5mm U-joint couplers, Dimart 320A fan-cooled ESC. Handmade wooden teardrop rudder on a 3/8" sternpost, 1/4" tiller arm steered by a Halcion sail winch servo and cable system. Flysky 6 channel. The nav lights and other illumination are Lighthouse 9v LEDs, also a GoolRC Receiver controlled flashing blue Law Enforcement light. Obviously, I put the cart before the horse and completed the topsides and below deck before finishing the outer hull, but the Wx and season change dictated such. Can't wait for Spring!
[Score: 9/10] 35"/4500g CG-40564 Capable of 15mph and a runtime of 45mins Twin Propellors (4 Blade 50mm) Direct Drive to a 775 JOHNSON-TYPE 6-12V (4 Blade) Powered by NiMH (8.4v) 3Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through HOBBYWING (15Amps) ESC - Comments: DUMAS 1:14 USCG 40' UTB. REPRESENTING US COAST GUARD UTILITY BOAT CG-40564, WHICH CAPSIZED DURING A RESCUE ATTEMPT ON THE COLUMBIA RIVER BAR ON 17 JAN 1961. HER CREW WAS FORTUNATELY RESCUED. SHE WAS ASSISTING CG-52301, A 52' TYPE F WOODEN MLB, WHICH FOUNDERED WITH THE LOSS OF ALL HANDS. IT REMAINS THE WORST SMALL BOAT RESCUE DISASTER IN COAST GUARD HISTORY. THIS IS AN UNUSUAL SCALE BALSA PLANK-ON, COVERED BY 2 OZ FIBERGLASS. I USED MINWAX POLYURETHANE FOR AN ALTERNATE TO RESIN, WHICH TURNED OUT WELL, AND CAN BE DONE WITH MINIMAL VENTILATION. WITH BIRCH PLY DECK & CABINS, 1/8" SCRIBED SHEATHING COVERS THE DECK BOW TO STERN AND MAHOGANY TRIM LEFTOVER FROM ANOTHER DUMAS KIT IN MY SCALE SHIPYARD. STOCK D/C FITTINGS WITH SOME SUPPLEMENTAL PREMADE AND HANDMADE ITEMS. SHE FEATURES TWIN RABOESCH 4-BLADE WIDE FLUKE WHEELS AND MATCHING RUDDERS; WORKING HATCHES WITH STOWAGE AREA FOR ANCHOR & TOWLINE, LIGHTHOUSE 9V LED NAV LIGHTS AND FLASHING LED LAW ENFORCEMENT BLUE LIGHT (RC CONTROLLED). I'M ADDING A MOUNT FOR A SCALE BROWNING M2 50 CAL THAT I WAS ABLE TO PRODUCE ON MY 3D PRINTER. THAT'S AN ADVENTURE IN ITSELF. THIS WAS MY FIRST REAL PLANK ON BULKHEAD, AND BALSAWOOD CAN BE A LIL TRICKY, BUT WILL ALWAYS BE THE STANDARD OF WHICH I COMPARE ALL MY SUBSEQUENT BUILDS. MY FATHER BUILT RC AIRCRAFT, AND ALWAYS PREACHED THAT YOU SHOULD OVERBUILD IN ORDER TO SURVIVE A CRACK-UP AND FLY ANOTHER DAY! THAT'S MY CREED WITH BOATS. OVERBUILD!!! THANK YOU DAD! BTW-FYI-MR. ARNOLD PALMER WAS A US COAST GUARDSMAN (YM3) 1950-53
While I agree that one does not need “expensive” equipment I.e. drill stands - one must consider that tools are individual choices and one must be satisfied and comfortable with what they are using, otherwise the application (use) of the equipment becomes a chore and most importantly an excuse for not managing to perform or make things (models) to ones satisfaction. I for one am wasting my time doing a scratch build with nothing but hand tools no laser cut wood no scroll or table saw no 3D printer and no drill stand - To my surprise, although it is a challenge and I notice small variations in my cuts etc. it has been very rewarding and bringing back some of my hand skills long thought forgotten and I find myself enjoying and deeper immersed in this project than the 3 kits I’ve assembled thus far. But - then I do understand I am speaking for myself not the multitude of others whom are much more expierenced in this hobby than myself. Thank each of you for the information and input - I’m finding this site most informative and educational than anywhere else I’ve looked I am humbled by the posts and pics I’ve reviewed. Doubtfully, I will never build anything as detailed as what I’ve reviewed thus far I.e. guess that’s why I don’t need the expensive and micro accurate equipment- hope I haven’t offfended anyone
I still wouldn't trust 'em! Too susceptible to damage. My humble opinion - I think that there are some things best left to the pros, or at least other materials, and the 3d printers kept for more innovative jobs. Like LCM hulls and V1s and 2s 😉 Or for repetitive deck fittings etc. Each to his own, Happy printing - whatever comes out, cheers Doug 😎
If you don't have access to a 3D printer, it might be worth your while checking whether their is a local Maker space you can join. They will almost certainly have a 3D printer you can borrow and are likely to also have laser cutting, metal turning and milling, and a host of other facilities normally outside the pocket of the average modeller. We are just starting up our Maker space in Guernsey but to find out if you have one near you, check www.nesta.org.uk/uk-makerspace-data.
Hi Novagsio Do tread carefully if you intend to use Westbourne as there has been posts on this and other sites regarding their poor service level and lack of advertised stock. Canabus has a build blog mdlbt.com/31424 Not sure exactly what fittings you require but Reade Models may be able to help as they supported fittings for many of the kits produced alongside the Precedent range. http://reademodels.com If you are looking for the window frames then you may need to fabricate from liteply, or if you have a 3D printer source have some fabricated.
Wondered why you'd been so quiet lately1 Was beginning to worry that you had bought your second 3D printer and the carbon fibre vest didn't withstand the attacks of SWMBO 🤔 LCM looks great👍 Are you going to fit the 'Doodle Bug' with Jetex (the senior members amongst us may remember that) and a flap valve for the characteristic sound?? V2 at 1/16; Length 87.5cm, Width (diameter) 10.3cm. Not so big in my terms, but BIG for a 24cm printing table!! Bon chance mon ami! Cheers Doug 😎 PS: water power or solid fuel for the V2?? When I was about 7 (1958) my Dad brought me a water powered 2 foot model of the Thor missile back from the States; pump pump pump ....... WHOOSH .... and gently back to earth on a parachute. I was KING of the block 😊 PPS: love the 50 cals👍 Can you do me two twin mounts at 1/35? 😉
Hi Mark, good on ya! Here's the link for the plans- https://aerofred.com/details.php?image_id=92723 See previous post for the link to the 3d fittings files. They are 1:144 as is but your 3D printer whiz can surely scale them to what you want! happy gluing! Doug 😎 PS Google 'Gearing class' if you want photos and more details! PPS: Congrats on promotion to 'Staff'! No more pension though 🤔
recognise the plan think i got it off of aero Fred if my memory serves me right missed a couple of things off the build but it still works. have seen the thing verse site really good have tried to get my old head around 3d printing but it doesn't seem to stick no hope for me in the great new world, pity as the printers are really cheap at the moment. egards. maurice
Hi Wayne, good to hear👍 'Well done that man! Give the man a Scooby doll!" 😁 OR; can you send me the stl file? Would make a great (and useful😊) first project for my 3d printer 😉 If affirmative I'll PM my mail address. Muchas gracias Doug 😎
Hi Dave, that's why I signed the mail 'tongue in cheek Doug' ! and why I suggested a launch date around 2050! Laughter is allowed and wanted 😁 An international effort could be fun, but you need someone with more 3D printing experience (also on large scale) to lead it than me 🤔 But like most international naval projects I suspect there would be no agreement on design and outfitting! Like with F90 etc! I also plan to use my printer only for small parts and moulds, and to satisfy my personal curiosity. My Graf Spee is currently in dry dock for re-shafting. At the moment Sea Scout has priority. Raining again, so much rain and thunderstorms here this summer sailing time has been seriously restricted 😭 Cheers Doug 😎
Hi Doug I do believe you have rather overestimated the capabilities of the hobby 3D printers. Even with multiple printers I suspect this would take a few years. I am making more use of my 3D printer recently but the process is not quick and I am only using for making small prototype items, which I then create a mould from and cast with Fast Cast resin. That model is pretty impressive and if you have a suitable water to sail on no problem. I wonder if he take his lunch on board? Your Graf Spee looks great and is a real credit to you. I suspect you have more chance of sailing her than the sit in version. If you are not careful you may find yourself overseeing the multi build project!! Cheers dave
Or ... how about we do it like modern ship building? Recent examples T45 and the QE Class carriers! Also the way the Koreans build those massive tanker and container ships, saw it in action at the Daewoo yard - awesome 😲 All of us with 3D printers (or access to) produce specific modules which are then linked up to build the whole ship. Linking site somewhere in the middle of us all. Oh Shucks! With you lot all up North 'somewhere in the middle' might be in the North Sea 😭 Oh well - was just a thought, 😉 Good night from Munich, bin a long day! Cheers Doug 😎