Doug: Yes, I was contemplating the idea of running the radar via small dc with a separate switch, that way I wouldn’t need to use a channel. I have been inspecting lots of different wiring diagrams to set up my electronics from Action Electronics. Looking at them I’m beginning to understand how to embrace the project and of course, you guys will give me the last word. By the way, I love your models, they look impeccable inside and out. Julian😎
Recently constructed ballasted and tested radio controlled model boat with working searchlight, navigation lights and Ship's Bell. Needs finishing by repainting, weathering to suit and a few minor additions (e.g. Anchor - supplied). Includes: Graupner HOTT may-10 transmitter and receiver JP ENERG-PRO NiMH flat 7.5v battery NiMH Battery Charger 230 457RE5401 Electric Motor ESC Viper Marine 15 Action Electronics P43 relay switches Mylar 5m round speaker for bell Spare ballast £150:00 Ono Collection only, please, due to weight of ballast. Based in Weston-super-Mare, Somerset. Selling to fund purchase of another - fun is in the making!
The esc stuff is all working now. So i have just hooked up a LM2577 Voltage Booster input 3.5 - 30V, output up to 30V adjustable The idea is to have 24 volts battery input and the output stays at 12 volts. Having just said that it has come from action electronics and does not work .....Again. So I will have to stick with 12 volts .... so far as electronize esc,s go there heavy duty and also used so I have been told on the robots used in robot wars..
Hi These are the motors. Not much info on them. But they are large and I can also replace the brushes when required. http://www.engel-modellbau.eu/catalog/product_info.php?cPath... Big motors and they work very well in big models I had the Action stuff dual ESC and melted the p94 still awaiting a return email response from them three days ago. In the meanwhile as you say two esc's are more than likely better. Two from Here http://electronize.net/model_electronics_frames.htm They seem to have the stuff that I have reliably been informed will do the job. So a few weeks time And I will be able to see how they go..
[Score: 8/10] 43"/1900g MTB743 Capable of 7mph and a runtime of 35mins Direct Drive to a COMBO 380 (3 Blade) Powered by LiPoly (11.1v) 11Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through ACTION ELECTRONICS (5Amps) ESC - Comments: This is a Failmile 'D' MTB. This version and number were operated by the 65th Canadian MTB flotilla in the English Channel. I made the model as this version as my Uncle was one of the crew. This model hull is built from scratch in the in the same was the real boats were using double diagonal planking. The propulsion is with 4 props paired using a dual ESC by Action Electronics and 2 11.1v LIPO batteries. These MTB were powered with 4 Packard 4M-2500 Engines with a hull speed of 34.5kts. Armament:- 4 x 18" torpedo's, 2 x 6pdr Mkv11 guns, Twin 20mm Oerlikon gun, 2 x twin Vickers Machine guns on powered mounts, as well as other smaller machine guns on the bridge. For more info goto the Manitoba Maritime Museum
I am so pleased to see this blog as I am also in the midst of building my own "forcefull". Your build is much further advanced than mine so hopefully I may be able to pick your brain in future about the many problems that I am bound to encounter. Your drive system looks much like mine apart from I am using 2 x 540's low noise motors with built in 16:1 gearbox and the final drive being belt drive reduction giving me a maximum no load rpm of 230 on the paddle rims. I am using an action Electronics dual mixer & ESC's in tank steer mode for speed control. I don't know how it will handle exactly in this mode but I do have the option of a conventional mixer mode with a rudder servo. At the moment my paddles are not feathering, this is just for getting in the water quicker and will be replaced in time when I can access to a lathe to make the ecentrics
I tried different Mixers unfortunately they were the wrong kind of mixers, after doing some research I now know I need an Action Electronics Mixer! it's a costly component I must say, I guess I'll be getting it by next spring just in time to do a Maiden Voyage.
The San Pedro is a North American Push Boat. She weighs in at 21 lbs L.O.A. is 30" Beam is 12" Draft is 3" 5/8" Her Engine Room Consist of: Two MFA 919D 540 Type Motors with Single Ratio Metal Gearbox 2.5:1 Reduction Two Mtroniks Viper Marine PNP 15 One Action Electronics Throttle & Rudder Mixer Two 6 Volt SLA Batteries in series Running time is estimated at 2 hrs
[Score: 5/10] 31" Shell Pioneer Twin Propellors (4 Blade 35mm) Direct Drive to a 2x MFA940051LN (4 Blade) Powered by LiPoly (7.4v) 4Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through 3xViper 15A (5Amps) ESC - Comments: This is my first working RC build but here goes. A bit vauqe about the fiqures because we are still on the slipway. It is scratch built from the Phil Thomas drawing "Shell Pioneer" Twin prop with Kort nozzle steering, bow thruster, working fire monitors and lights. Throtle & steering control via Action Electronics P40E mixer. 2x 2S25C4000mA lipoly's. 6 Ch radio (4 used). draws around 4.5A hope to get 30min run time minimum. Third ESC for bow thruster.
I have two ESC's (mtronics Viper Marine 15)and a P40 mixer from Action Electronics. Because of this the motors have their own batteries, 7.2volts, and the receiver has it's own 6volt supply. Neither of the ESCs provides power to the receiver, although they are obviously connected to it, the central wire is removed from the connector and taped back, out of the way, so could I use one to supply the power for the sound unit? The mtronics spec for this BEC unit is 1.2A but the voltage is not mentioned. Chris
The San Pedro is a North American style push tug model. she is 30" X 12" twin screw draft 3"5/8", weight Is estimated at 21lbs. I plan on powering her with, Two MFA 919D Series - 2.5:1 Gearbox - 3000 rpm @ 6 volts, 6300 rpm @ 12 volts Two Viper Marine 15's PNP Two SLA Batteries @ 6V, 2.5 Amps One Action Electronics Throttle & Rudder Mixer Did I forget anything?
My tug has 2 motors and an Action Electronics P40 mixer. I have been looking at the Technobots Combo Engine Sound module but was wondering if this would cause any problems as I assume from the Technobots site that the module would normally have to fit between receiver and the ESC, but with the P40 mixer in situ would I have to connect from the mixer to the ECS instead,or from the receiver to the mixer? I was going to ask on the Technobots forum but after registering I was unable to find a way of posting a message. Probably a bit too dim for them ! The way I see it, one of 2 things will happen, if connected between receiver and mixer the sound module will behave as though there was only one motor, whereas connecting between the mixer and one of the ESCs the sound will only reflect what is happening to that particular motor. I have no problems with either of these situations, although I think option 1 is better, but what I am concerned about is that one of the options may be so wrong something fails, and all I have ended up with is a smoke generator! Chris
Action Electronics also do a mixer that does this. My Southamton tug only had one ESC and the turning performance left a lot to be desired, but with 2 ESCs and the Action P40 mixer it will, literally, turn in its own length. Chris
In that case you can forget the Action Electronics diagram as its not appropriate for brushless motors. Your brushless motor will have three wires coming off it, The speed controller will have three wires coming off one side and two wires coming off the other side coloured red and black. The three wires will connect to the three wires on the motor, the colours of these wires are irrevelant and can be interchanged to change the direction of the motor as you wish and the two wires will connect to the battery - ensure the red goes to red and black goes to black. You may have to solder suitable connectors to the speed controller wires to make the appropriate connections. The speed controller will have a three wired connection called a BEC (battery elimination circuit) with a futaba type plug on it to connect to the receiver for the throttle channel. This saves having to use a separate battery for the receiver as power for it is supplied by the main power batteries. If you intend to use twin motors and speed controllers it is better to connect each motor and speed controller to its own battery. In this case you will have two connectors to connect to the receiver, you can purchase a "Y" lead to join the two wires into one. If you do this you should disconnect the red lead from one of the receiver wires to prevent damage to the receiver. You may if you wish disconnect both red wires from theses plugs and use a separate 4.8v/6v battery pack for the receiver, it is entirely a personal choice. Wiring of lights and other accessories is a separate issue. Shaun
Action Electronics provide a wiring diagram for the Model Slipway "Tamar" which can be found with the link below: http://www.action-electronics.co.uk/pdfs/Model%20Slipway%20T... This is a comprehensive diagram showing the use of just about everything Action Electronics provide and is specifically aimed at using brushed motors, a lot of the stuff will be no use with brushless motors. Shaun