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October 2018: 5 people September 2018: 13 people August 2018: 5 people July 2018: 8 people June 2018: 8 people May 2018: 7 people April 2018: 24 people March 2018: 13 people February 2018: 8 people January 2018: 9 people
Hi Jon. I wouldn't be surprised if it would make £300. I have looked around for about six years and never seen such an origional and unmade FPB kit. I have put a sound system in mine supplied by action electronics. The sound is of a turbo cat diesel and is very effective. Regards Kevin
Hi TJ, RE: RX battery. Any 4 or 5 cell (4.8 or 6V) NiMh of 1000mAh up will do. Use the biggest one you can without upsetting the boat's trim or reducing it's performance / planing etc. BUT: don't forget to disconnect the red wires between your ESCs and RX to disconnect the BECs in the mTroniks speed controllers!!! Also check that your RX and mixer module etc can handle 6V+! If not use the 4 cell pack. A fully charged NiMh will be significantly above 6V. Some modules; e.g. Action Electronics / Component Shop don't like that 😡 Alternatives are, esp if you need to save weight, 1 use ONE of the red BEC leads from ESC to RX, e.g. the centre one, and disconnect the other two, 2 Use a separate 5V UBEC module to syphon power off the drive battery for the RX, AND disconnect all three red BEC wires from the ESCs. Cheers, Doug 😎
If you want a selection of various engine sounds, plus extra sounds i.e. klaxon,seagulls,winch sounds etc, the best one for the money is by Action electronics👍, part of Component shop. http://www.action-electronics.co.uk/engines.html Peter😉
Post 2 Range Launch? The bath test has shown up a leak……………….. Have not tried to find where yet but it is hopefully in that small bay as it did not flow over the rib section. Strange I had not thought leaks to be much of a possibility in a boat! Wishful thinking again. Anyway it has put work back a bit. You will notice that the bath water was ‘used’ condition. I was not allowed to waste water due to the shortage so had to use the bath with Radox and herbal Oils in it. I trust it does not affect the paintwork…………… Any opinions on Leak Checking? I did check how it ‘sat’, and the waterline at its current weight. There is something in those images that RN Munich will pick up on! Have received some of the parts………….just like Christmas for me. ( I was a spoilt only child). Two issues strike me. a. It may be of interest if I give sources of the parts b. I think I have a problem with ‘scale’………….. Currently the purchases fall into two groups, electrical and deck fittings. The electrics are not posing a problem yet, but the size of deck fittings certainly is! Taking the larger ‘electricals’ first, I have gone for pre built units. Someone with more ability could build the units themselves. Kits are available. Also far fewer units could be used to start with and added later if needed. As a result of my previous, though small, experience with the Richardson Tug I used Action Electronics and Component Shop in Bangor, Wales for almost all of the electrical bits. They are helpful and efficient with good quality products. I am still using Mtroniks DigiSound for the sound unit, but Action Electronics now makes one as well. I have used a new source for the transducers/exciters. I have previously used Dayton Audio, sourced through SoundandVision Netherlands and costing around £35.00 for a pair of TT25’s plus mail. This time I used Mr RC for similar item, made by them for about £53.00 the pair mail free. They too came from the Netherlands! Not tried yet, but have noted that the Dayton Audio ones had a foam ring on the face which was self adhesive and easy to place. Mr RC require Gluing in place. Going to look for the leak. Next post should be on the electronics which I hope will have arrived by then. BTW, The 46 Firefloat Mk2 blogg by ‘Elsrickle and Fire Boat (Crash Tender) on our site are great sources of information. NPJ.
Hi, Put the original radio board, smoker and light wiring back in. Take out your new RX and ESCs and use them for something else. Then fit a P94 dual ESC and Rudder Mixer from Action Electronics, sold by Component shop. You will get the same effect when used in Mode 3 👍😁 You will only need the 10A version for the Richardson. https://www.componentshop.co.uk/p94l-dual-esc-and-mixer-2-x-... Only difference with the 20A version is chunks of ally on the power transistors as heat sinks! Easy enough to 'self fit' 😉 Have fun, cheers, Doug😎
Your answer even quicker 😲 OK, if you don't want to practice twin motor control using two sticks, like tank driver, then I suggest the Action Electronics mixer board (as discussed during your aborted tug conversion🤔). You'll probably need the 20A version with those motors. Cheers, Doug 😎
Hiya Doug Yep but I prefer something I can Hold in my hand to read . No booting up time req,😁Have you heard of Action R/C Electronics It's an arm of Comp Shop. Same addy . Great units ready built : or kits for many of them. Download the catalogue from Comp Shop site. I find Kyje very helpful when I have a query,but they are all good. Steve Webb /Servo Shop also handy too. Cheers Doug👍
Evenin' John, Yep, they're good👍 They also now market the Action Electronics range of very useful electronic modules. Also very good quick service to Munich 👍😊 Catalogue you can download anyway 😉 Cheers, Doug 😎
For sale is my 1/12th scale model of the Waveney Lifeboat - "The Scout" Kit produced by David Metcalf. Built to a good standard with an array of working features: Working radar controlled through a voltage reducer Navigation lights, mast lights, front and rear searchlights, flashing blue light and well lights all controlled by an Action Electronics P62 quad switcher. The flashing effect of the blue light is controlled by an Action ElectronicsP73 multi flasher. Powered by two Turnigy 3542/5 1250kv brushless outrunners controlled by two Fusion Hawk 60amp electronic speeed controllers. Fitted with Raboesch propshafts and 3 bladed brass left and right handed propellors. Batteries and radios are not included in the sale. The model is available for pick up only with cash on collection from Stafford ST16 which is approximately 1/2 mile from Junction 14 of the M6 motorway. Price £700 ovno
Hi Martin, 1. What the blue blazes is a wall wart? 🤔 2. You can't do any harm to the RC gear with an under charged battery👍 But if you use it before charging it you may drive it below it's damage threshold of 1.1V per cell if you use it too much in that state. A word of warning: some RXs and ESCs don't like more than 6.0V (e.g. Action electronics/Component Shop) and a fully charged NiMh can be more than that so check the specs of your RX and ESC first! 3. Get yourself a simple battery capacity checker, see attached pics of the two I have. As you can see, they all look the same except for plastic colour and brand name. They only cost few quid and save a lot of ruined batteries and cost/heartache😉 Available from HobbyKing etc etc. They can check voltage and capacity. For LiPos they check individual cells. For NiCad or NiMh it just checks total voltage and capacity as most NiMh don't have external connections to individual cells like the LiPos do for balancing the cells. As I still have some hi power NiMh drive batteries, for ESCs that are not LiPo safe, I made a simple JR/Tamiya adaptor to connect to the monitor. In my pics you can see the % charge / capacity display. Some show only around 46% cos they are 'as delivered' with a storage charge only. Before use they need fully charging. 4. Re Charger: Just downloaded the manual - I'll get back to you on that when I've read it. Now it's 'Eat'n time' 😁 Cheers, Doug 😎
Have a query here busy with Vosper 46" I intend to put a twin drive in using aP94 electronic controller ex action electronics Some of the design says to use 2 Graupner 900 speed motor these are no longer available any suggestions as I need the gel cells for ballast I think MFA Come 850's might be overkill Thanks
Hi TJ, looks OK for a basic starter kit👍 Ron's right I'm also still slightly concerned you might quickly get bored with just throttle and rudder 😲 9X is perhaps overkill at this stage! I use the TGY-i6 for almost everything (except my sub cos 2.4Gig don't like diving!). I bought a bundle of 6ch receivers to go with it for around 8 quid a chunk so I can fit out several models. My expensive Spektrum Dx6 is now gathering dust on the shelf 🤔 Re: Aldiss signal lamp: Have a look at this from component Shop (Action Electronics), description attached. I just bought one to go on my 1936 H class 1:72 destroyer 😉 along with a SONAR pinger! https://www.componentshop.co.uk/p49-morse-aldis-sounder-flas... Happy building, and even happier sailing, cheers Doug 😎 PS: I don't waste a channel on radar. On my destroyer it is simply switched on by a microswitch underneath 'B' gun turret. Drive is a modified servo fed by a 1.5V alkaline 'C' cell. Lasts for years 😁