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What I don't like about the 'Noisy Thing' is that apparently the engine sound stops for as long as you use any other sound; e.g. fog horn, ship's bell etc, so called 'General Sounds' in the Action description, if you use it in so called 'Throttle Mode', i.e. engine sound coupled to speed. In that case you may as well use a Switch module to connect the 'General Sounds' on separate modules to an amplifier with mixer inputs. The sound modules I found here (Germany) don't have this disadvantage. They have at least two output channels enabling a minimum of two simultaneous sounds. Specific sounds can also be coupled to switched outputs; e.g. to move cranes, gun turrets, or switch lights etc whenever that corresponding sound is actuated. Specific sequences of various sounds can be pre-programmed and initiated with one command using only one sound channel. Attached are extracts from the manual of a module from Neuhaus Electronics showing how to synchronise real engine sounds to the throttle. Needs a bit of PC work but no rocket science 😉 and the sounds are then linked to the throttle stick position. Send me a PM and I can send you details including source and operating manual. The Graupner module is very similar but I haven't experimented with it yet. Cheers Doug 😎
Hi Chris, glad to have helped, having already been down that road and learning the hard way! 😉 Actually Raboesch is a Dutch company. Not quite Double Dutch but in the case of 'Left - Right' props close to 🤔 Your boat: Rother class, OK so it's a slow (10knots) displacement hull. With bilge keels which make turning more difficult. I would probably use two brushed motors cos you don't need the Oomph of brushless. With brushed you can then use the Action Electronics Dual ESC and rudder mixer, P94Lite. From Component Shop. See pic. https://www.componentshop.co.uk/action-electronics/esc.html Good for 10A continuous to each motor - brushed ONLY! I'm about to fit one to my 5 foot Graf Spee. With the hull form of the Rother only sea trials will confirm which is best outward or inward. have fun with the build and trials, looking forward to updates / pics / vids 👍 BTW: will yours also be Self Righting??? 😉 Cheers Doug 😎
This time I will try to remember to put in the ‘source’ information on the bits and pieces I use........... In the most recent piece I should have included exciters/transducers are Dayton Audio DAEX 25VT -4, 4 Ohms – 20 Watt pair, obtained from Sound Imports Netherlands and very quickly as well. The sound unit is a Mtroniks Digisound 5M diesel sound, available all over the place. Now to look at where I am at. Exciters are in place as high up the Hull as possible, but remembering the Deck level. Used the adhesive pads as supplied after wiping that part of the Hull with Meths and Silicone adhesive to keep in place as well as using the wiring tidies from Modelsport Ltd., for the cabling. (Pic 1+2) Before I start the motor and controller wiring I changed the platform ‘up front’ (pic3) with a piece of thin ply which I have given a couple of coats of varnish to waterproof. Then I thought to myself “why am I waterproofing this when, if it gets that wet, it will have gone to the bottom and be useless anyway”! (Pics 4) However, the platform gives a little more choice in terms of layout of other components and my plan for them is not really settled yet. I am concerned about the stern and possible swamping, but it currently seems the best place for the upgraded battery. (Pic5 ) Whilst talking batteries, I have gone for a separate battery supply for the receiver and hope to use the Bec supply for running other less critical items. Also the fitting of the battery in the stern bay drew my attention to the rudder servo for a couple of reasons. First is I am still considering increasing the size of the rudders and I am assuming that will increase the strain on the servo. The servo supplied is a standard issue and not water resistant so I have gone for an upgrade as shown(Pic6) That gives torque increase of 17Kg/cm over the Hobby Engine S1040C and has metal gears, metal control arm and waterproof for 20grams extra weight. Second is the closeness to the new battery position. So I was going to alter the servo arm setup anyway and the new metal arm suits this well. Maybe my ‘tutors’ will consider all this to be a little ‘over the top’ but I do so enjoy messing......................... New Servo DS 3218 by AYANI from Amazon. (Pics 6/7 ) Following that distraction, back to the front end and the Motor/Mixer placing and wiring. Now a little time ago I drew a plan to see what could go where and it came out that most of the ‘bits’ would go in the front bay with motors to be wired once power was brought forward, followed by the Esc/Mixer. (Pic 8) At that time I bought a P94 dual esc/mixer from Action Electronics and got the 20 amp version to be on the safe side................. My ‘guardians’ did point out this was ‘over-kill’ but I had already got it. Now, when placing the unit on the mounting board I found that the heatsinks made it too high to fit in the Hull! So being a spoilt brat only child I ordered the 10 amp version and as usual it came very quickly from up here in Bangor. ( Will keep the other one for the next project............Happy Hunter??) Unboxed it and it looked just the same, heatsinks and all. (Pic 9/10 ) So at that moment there was a bit of a set-back so I rang Component Shop at Bangor, they said “take the heat sinks off and you have a P94 lite”! Such a simple answer and such a nice chap. (Pic 11 ) Now a quick 'measure up' before I have a glass of wine (Pic 12) and does it all fit...? Well it appears to at the moment! (Pic 13) Next time really going to screw down the components under the forward hatch and wire it up. NPJ
Yep, a Large scale IC doing most of the work, RX/Decoder, and some power transistors for the outputs. Not easily mod-able 😡 Suggest you have a look at the little switch boards from Action (Component Shop) Neil. http://www.componentshop.co.uk/action-electronics/switches.h... I made my own several years ago using CMOS chips and little 5V relays, but then I'm just like that😉 The Motor Sound Unit I understand looks after itself as it's coupled into the ESC control. So you just need switch boards for lights (nav and deck/cabin lights), smoke, other sound boards, e.g foghorn and/or ship's bell from Action? Have fun, Doug
Good luck John 👍 The 'hurricane' brought us a superb Indian Summer here in south Germany, blue skies and 25°C in Munich. 😊 Should last until Saturday, then the rain is back 🤔 It really is an ill wind that blows nobody any good! To avoid the binding timing problem Dave describes above use a separate RX batt and disconnect BOTH BECs!! Then only switch on the ESCs after the TX is bound with the RX. Several RC module manufacturers warn against BECs, e.g. Action Electronics! Happy sailing, Cheers Doug 😎
I have an Esc/Mixer from Action Electronics. A P94 which I am thinking of using to control the twin motors on a Richardson Tug. Now I am very new to this sort of thing and when I unpacked it I found it has two plastic panels attached to the circuit board at right angles and measuring 50mm or 2” up into the air. I cannot find any reference to these in the paper work. Are they just to attach the board to something or of greater significance? Also when connecting up the unit to the motors, are there any ‘special issues’ I need to be aware of? Help needed please. NPJ
Hi, as I wrote,I have no experience with Action Electronics products. Regarding the use of internal mixers in HKT6A , these did not suit for this case,neither Turnigy TGY9X.There is always one main signal as control and the other one(or more) as a signal dependent. I needed to mix two independent signals and that is why I chose an external simple mixer! To Dave M .. excuse me -I have no experience with brushless motors but in this case I do not know why it could not work. It is a mix of two control signals only ...What's the problem with that, if I use brushless motors?
I agree Tom, 👍 Much easier. That's the principle I will be using on my destroyer refit. I have a combined twin-ESC and mixer module from Action Electronics and will have speed and steering both on the right stick. Greetings Doug 😎
PS Dave, Natch, small signal mixing is always better. A few 10 - 47K resistors and away you go! 😊 Amps such as the Action Electronics already have this network included. There are countless other similar 'ready made' solutions on the market for those who don't want to mess about with soldering irons like we do. Doug 😎
Hi Chris, to feed two or more audio signals (Sounds!) into one speaker or transducer (which is just the core of a speaker without the cone!) you just need an amplifier with a mixer input. Not complicated but to make it even simpler people like Component Shop (Action Electronics) have some - http://www.componentshop.co.uk/action-electronics/amplifiers Cheers Doug 😎
Hi Neil, I know the feeling, but Gently Bentley! 😉 What do you want your sound system to do? there are simple single sound boards e.g for motor sound; diesel, petrol, steam in various types, sirens - operated by a simple servo/micro switch/relay system or full blown programmable modules where you can load your own .WAV format sounds. There are thousands on the electronic spider web! Several years ago I built a CMOS driven relay board so I could operate four functions from one proportional channel: destroyer siren (Whoop Whoop!), smoke, lights, fog horn. Was a home made PCB about 4" square! Nowadays one mini module will do all that and much more; Plug and Play, plus you can load your own sound files from the PC, but is that so satisfying?? Another debate😉 Cheers Doug 😎 PS for some inspiration have a look at the Component Shop site under Action Electronics; sound! I've just bought the Asdic sound board for my destroyer; test report follows. 😉
Have been considering this for my Southampton. Don't want tank steering though, since I sail in a Biergarten I need to keep one hand free for the Bierkrug!😉 So I decided to try the Action Electronics P94 dual ESC and rudder mixer all in one module! From Component Shop these days. Can be easily set in one of 4 modes. See pic. NOTE: Brushed motors ONLY!! Not fitted yet, still busy with Sea Scout and PT Boat. The module may yet end up in my Destroyer! Cheers Doug 😎
Doug: Yes, I was contemplating the idea of running the radar via small dc with a separate switch, that way I wouldn’t need to use a channel. I have been inspecting lots of different wiring diagrams to set up my electronics from Action Electronics. Looking at them I’m beginning to understand how to embrace the project and of course, you guys will give me the last word. By the way, I love your models, they look impeccable inside and out. Julian😎
Recently constructed ballasted and tested radio controlled model boat with working searchlight, navigation lights and Ship's Bell. Needs finishing by repainting, weathering to suit and a few minor additions (e.g. Anchor - supplied). Includes: Graupner HOTT may-10 transmitter and receiver JP ENERG-PRO NiMH flat 7.5v battery NiMH Battery Charger 230 457RE5401 Electric Motor ESC Viper Marine 15 Action Electronics P43 relay switches Mylar 5m round speaker for bell Spare ballast £150:00 Ono Collection only, please, due to weight of ballast. Based in Weston-super-Mare, Somerset. Selling to fund purchase of another - fun is in the making!
The esc stuff is all working now. So i have just hooked up a LM2577 Voltage Booster input 3.5 - 30V, output up to 30V adjustable The idea is to have 24 volts battery input and the output stays at 12 volts. Having just said that it has come from action electronics and does not work .....Again. So I will have to stick with 12 volts .... so far as electronize esc,s go there heavy duty and also used so I have been told on the robots used in robot wars..