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Hi Jon. I wouldn't be surprised if it would make £300. I have looked around for about six years and never seen such an origional and unmade FPB kit. I have put a sound system in mine supplied by action electronics. The sound is of a turbo cat diesel and is very effective. Regards Kevin
Hi TJ, RE: RX battery. Any 4 or 5 cell (4.8 or 6V) NiMh of 1000mAh up will do. Use the biggest one you can without upsetting the boat's trim or reducing it's performance / planing etc. BUT: don't forget to disconnect the red wires between your ESCs and RX to disconnect the BECs in the mTroniks speed controllers!!! Also check that your RX and mixer module etc can handle 6V+! If not use the 4 cell pack. A fully charged NiMh will be significantly above 6V. Some modules; e.g. Action Electronics / Component Shop don't like that 😡 Alternatives are, esp if you need to save weight, 1 use ONE of the red BEC leads from ESC to RX, e.g. the centre one, and disconnect the other two, 2 Use a separate 5V UBEC module to syphon power off the drive battery for the RX, AND disconnect all three red BEC wires from the ESCs. Cheers, Doug 😎
I started this post hoping to get advice on allergic reaction to modelling with styrene but it seems to have turned into soldering problems. I'd really like to know if anybody else has had any trouble with styrene and how they coped with it. Fair winds, Nerys
Hmm! Let's 'Cut to the chase'! First; I've never been on a ship, naval or civil, and I've been on a few during my 30 odd year career designing COMMS systems for ships, mostly naval, that used gloss paints OR matt paints. Matt paint, whether for scale or full size, rapidly shows the wear marks where folks tread or grab or where we habitually grab it on models. This rapidly creates a shiny effect, like the seat of your favourite, most comfortable and ancient trousers (which the Missus probably wanted to throw out years ago but you are fighting a REARguard action) 😁 During WW2 the emphasis was on reducing the reflectivity of paints on warships. Gloss on a ship / boat MAY not look any different from satin or matt at a distance BUT; it will reflect sunlight and flash which attracts attention and betrays the presence of the vessel. Furthermore gloss shows the wear and tear marks much sooner than satin. Whether matt paints were available or not in those days I don't know, but even if they were I don't think they would have been used after the initial durability tests on board. Having seen the paint part numbers, all BS381C xxx, specified on the Thornycroft 'blueprints' that Martin sent me, I would say that the paint colours you need Morkullen are RN Light Weatherworks grey BS381C 676 = Colour Coats M01 RN Dark Admiralty grey BS381C 632 = Colour Coats M16 RN Light Admiralty grey BS381C 697= Colour Coats M23 See page 3 of the colour chart, see attached colour charts from Sovereign Hobbies for their Colour Coats paints, which have been derived from original Admiralty paint chips.. Colour Coats are enamel. If you prefer acrylic try Life Colour set CS33 Royal Navy WW2 Set 1. See page 6 of attached Life Colour catalogue. Happy painting, don't forget to post pics / vids of the results👍 Cheers, Doug 😎 PS have a look at the recent HMS Campbeltown 1/96 thread for further detail of the recent discussion on WW2 RN paints. BTW; if I feel after painting that the finish is still too glossy I give it a blast of Lord Nelson satin, or in extreme cases, matt clear varnish. Otherwise I agree with Reilly's comments👍
Certainly not melting and I'm pretty sure it was soft solder only as I know he had no knowledge of silver soldering. I use silver solder (hard soldering) all the time and have done for over 50 years, most of it with cadmium rich (still, I get it from ebay) and I have had no unpleasant reactions. OK, currently I have the shed door open as it's a very small shed, but I never used to in a 7x5. Before that the space was always bigger. Cadmium free modern silver solder is crap as it will not flow as well as Cadmium containing. Martin
I started building a dutch coaster recently from a kit which is all plastic and styrene. I have no experience of using these materials. Progressing reasonably well but am finding that my fingers are becoming very sore, splitting and losing top layer of skin. Lips are swelling too. I can only guess this is a reaction to the styrene and would like to know if anybody else has this problem and how they get round it apart from stopping the build. Any help will be gratefully received. Regards, Nerys
Agreed John👍 especially in the Pacific colours faded rapidly. Depends if you want 'as built' / 'freshly painted' or 'in action'. "Not many people would spot or even know the difference anyway." Trouble is 'We do!' 😁 Cheers, Doug 😎 BTW the mix proportions, of those colours not yard premixed, are given in one of the links I gave. For scale models it seems to be generally accepted to lighten the basic colours a little, have seen 10 to 20% white depending on darkness of the base colour, to give more impression of distance and hence more realism on the wet stuff.
I really like your schenllboot and I hope you get the same satisfaction as I am getting, I have building the same kit for the last year and a bit , and the support on this site is tremendous, as well as the tips and methods in the blogs and posts . I think I would have be lost without the members help, so keep at PS the boat looks really good
Mornin Peter, That's probably your best bet👍 I find it convenient to use my cheaper single action airbrush with a 0.8 nozzle / needle setup for larger stuff like hulls, and keep the more sophisticated dual action set with a 0.5 (very occasionally 0.3) for detail work or the smaller 1/350 ships. For the latter rattle cans are of course totally useless, but the scale is just to big for decent brush painting (for me anyway😲) Saves having to fiddle about changing the setup so often😉 Happy spraying, cheers, Doug 😎
No Martin, I don't think so. Once again; it's not so much what you say but HOW you say it. If your chat with the 'only geezer' was in the same vein as your recent posts I can fully understand that the reaction was 'don't call us - we'll call you'. Patience is NOT an excuse for wasting time. It is an essential component of successful negotiation. During my career I was often involved in systems design and contract negotiations for COMMS systems for ships yet to be ordered and built. Many of such projects took 5 to 7 years or more to come to fruition. My perseverance and patience paid off. I was the one who signed the contracts! I often heard from the shipyards and/or navies involved that they were put off by the 'pushy' tactics used by my competitors with less patience. Tolerance is also not a weakness. Lack of it IS. Differing opinions are fine, just depends how they are expressed. Denigrating and insulting others who have differing interests as morons is not the 'fine English art' ! Re: Dumbphone control Apps; YOU don't necessarily need to know (a Luddite wouldn't want to or need to anyway!) but the parents of your grand kids SHOULD in this day and age. Tell 'em to look for Apps like 'Quiet Time'. This enables them to define times that the kids can access the web online via smartphone and when it is blocked. And no, the kids can't normally get around it. If they can; leave 'em alone to make their millions! Re: Woodies; Super duper. You have seen that I have put a tremendous amount of effort into renovating the Sea Scout that my Dad built in the early sixties. I enjoyed the process and learned a lot doing it. But I am not fixed on that particular line of model boat / model ship building. If that's your only thing - fine. But why berate those of us who take a wider view and also have an interest and find challenges in making shipboard functions work in miniature in all sorts of ships? "I really couldn't give a sh*t if I was the only person left in the world making woodies. I do it for me only these days in the absence of any clubs. But I don't have to pretend to like all the other stuff. In another place are people who not only do sail, but specifically model barge racing and good on 'em. I don't ask that they do all the other stuff" No, of course you don't have to pretend to like 'all the other stuff' but you also don't have to decry those that DO like the other stuff, as you often do the tug aficionados for instance. OK, I can understand an aversion to warships as such if someone is a died in the wool pacifist, but nevertheless some appreciation of the skills involved in producing such outstanding warship models as seen on this site is not out of order, or...? (Bye the bye; I've often noticed that 'pacifists' have a particularly aggressive way of expressing themselves!?) After 30 odd years here in Germany I'm out of touch with the ground roots in UK, but over here things don't look so black. There are thriving model boat clubs all over. W.r.t. 'exciting aspects'; there are clubs in Germany, Holland and France and Italy also I think who happily and skilfully re-enact sea battles and convoy battles. There is at least one club in South England that also does that I believe, in Southampton or Portsmouth? Don't get Channel 4 here (re Battle of Britain re-run you mentioned) but I do get DMAX, which shows a series called 'Die Modellbauer'. In this the crémé de la crémé of German model making is depicted and judged for the annual cup at the International Model Show here. It covers everything from fire trucks, excavators, boats and ships of all kinds, and aircraft of of all types including turbine jets. Criteria for the competition being: 1) Shall be externally identical to the original in every detail (down to the rivets!)l, 2) Shall be able to perform each and every function of the original. 3) 150 days to design, complete and demonstrate the model. The point being that with extremely few solo exceptions the models are almost always built by a father and son partnership. So, sorry if the situation is drastically different in UK but 'over here' it ain't so black as you paint. Maybe it's a question of the attitude of the parents? BTW: for a fantastic example of 'modelling on a mammoth scale' pop across to Hamburg and have a look at the 'Miniature Wonderland' in the old Hafen City. All 1/87 scale, the largest model railway layout in the world, but also all types of aircraft and ships in action as well. Also shown from time to time on various documentary TV channels. BTW2: don't worry about the brass bashing, I'll work it out for myself. Have fun with the Taycols. Cheers, Doug 😎
Proboat Aplha - ready to run.......model of Patrol Boat Riverine used by US Navy, Vietnam between 1967-72. Basic 1/18 scale able to attach small action figures for added dimension, model always look better with crew. Great starter....already looking at larger scale military kits and really impressed with Deans Marine product range, unfortunatly little options to explore in Australia....so have to order most stuff in....vids will get better with experience...stay tuned.😉