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>> Home > Tags > action

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M.V. TEAKWOOD by RHBaker Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 days ago
As the superstructure rose in height it confirmed a suspicion that had been growing for some time. In spite of the copious checks during construction, the leading edge of the bow was twisted slightly by about 3/32” towards starboard at it's base. Not sure how this developed, can only guess there was a slight misalignment during the original modifications that eventually grew to become clearly visible. It was the kind of defect only discernible to a careful observer - or me! Initially hoped to avoid corrective action, but the superstructure build seemed to emphasis the twist. The model is now looking quite good; it would be a pity to compromise it with an elementary, but fundamental, issue such as this. After many measurements, including using spirit levels and squares, decided to cut the trusty bow coat hangar loose, reposition it carefully laterally and then epoxy into place. The longitudinal shape was fine. The pictures show the twist, the cut and then the amount of reposition required. Reconstruction followed the original bow addition procedure. There was a lot of sanding required on the starboard side of the bow to realign the bow and hull transition. Fortunately, this was limited to the addition area, so neither the mechanical nor water sealed qualities of the original Velarde hull have been compromised. After repainting and finishing, all looked well, as shown in the final picture. Concluded this repair was indeed worth the effort. The problem would have been exaggerated in my mind to spoil my enjoyment and then pride in the model. Glass fibre is remarkably forgiving and there should be no reluctance to embark on such modifications when necessary.

Sea Queen Spray Rails by IanD Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 8 days ago
My Sea Commander "Jaydee" has spray rails about 3/16th inch square. Have a look at the Aerokits photo gallery. There is a picture of it out of the water and some in action. I believe rails are a must for stability in the turns when going at speed as well as helping lift the boat onto plane. Ian

Happy Hunter by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 13 days ago
Very nice project, will watch with interest 👍 To spur you (both?) on here's a couple in action, nice jobs! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=weUgXiEz1F8 Cheers Doug 😎

USCGC KATMAI BAY (WTGB-101) by circle43nautical Commander   Posted: 13 days ago
I AM BUILDING A 1:48 SCALE, 35" REPLICA OF THIS US COAST GUARD ICEBREAKING TUG THIS IS THE ACTUAL CUTTER IN ACTION IN THE ENTRANCE CHANNEL TO THE HARBOR AT LUDINGTON, MICHIGAN, USA

Paper plans by Skydive130 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 13 days ago
I buy lots of plans for aircraft and boats from either eBay or Sarik etc. Most of the plans I’ve bought from eBay have been photocopies and folded on arrival. I iron my plans carefully and also store rolled in a tube. One thing to note, a photocopy especially on larger sheets of paper can be a fraction bigger than the original it’s been copied from! I tend to use plans as a reference and transfer straight lines to large paper especially if building on the plans direct, this is possibly essential when building wings and fuselages over the plans and I have also done it with boats, as recent as the veron Vosper RTTL I’m currently building from eBay plans (copies!)

Fender addition by Novagsi0 Commander   Posted: 13 days ago
Someone on a popular internet auction site has asked if I can make one for a full size boat!!!!!, and in Pink. really 😊 My mom is going to need a bigger set of knitting needles. With regret I declined, based on the pink rope needed.

HMS Blue Rover and HMS Manchester by Dom of Essential RC Commander   Posted: 18 days ago
Close proximity re-fuelling. Top driving skills in action !

Electronics Down Below (5) by NPJ Captain   Posted: 25 days ago
This time I will try to remember to put in the ‘source’ information on the bits and pieces I use........... In the most recent piece I should have included exciters/transducers are Dayton Audio DAEX 25VT -4, 4 Ohms – 20 Watt pair, obtained from Sound Imports Netherlands and very quickly as well. The sound unit is a Mtroniks Digisound 5M diesel sound, available all over the place. Now to look at where I am at. Exciters are in place as high up the Hull as possible, but remembering the Deck level. Used the adhesive pads as supplied after wiping that part of the Hull with Meths and Silicone adhesive to keep in place as well as using the wiring tidies from Modelsport Ltd., for the cabling. (Pic 1+2) Before I start the motor and controller wiring I changed the platform ‘up front’ (pic3) with a piece of thin ply which I have given a couple of coats of varnish to waterproof. Then I thought to myself “why am I waterproofing this when, if it gets that wet, it will have gone to the bottom and be useless anyway”! (Pics 4) However, the platform gives a little more choice in terms of layout of other components and my plan for them is not really settled yet. I am concerned about the stern and possible swamping, but it currently seems the best place for the upgraded battery. (Pic5 ) Whilst talking batteries, I have gone for a separate battery supply for the receiver and hope to use the Bec supply for running other less critical items. Also the fitting of the battery in the stern bay drew my attention to the rudder servo for a couple of reasons. First is I am still considering increasing the size of the rudders and I am assuming that will increase the strain on the servo. The servo supplied is a standard issue and not water resistant so I have gone for an upgrade as shown(Pic6) That gives torque increase of 17Kg/cm over the Hobby Engine S1040C and has metal gears, metal control arm and waterproof for 20grams extra weight. Second is the closeness to the new battery position. So I was going to alter the servo arm setup anyway and the new metal arm suits this well. Maybe my ‘tutors’ will consider all this to be a little ‘over the top’ but I do so enjoy messing......................... New Servo DS 3218 by AYANI from Amazon. (Pics 6/7 ) Following that distraction, back to the front end and the Motor/Mixer placing and wiring. Now a little time ago I drew a plan to see what could go where and it came out that most of the ‘bits’ would go in the front bay with motors to be wired once power was brought forward, followed by the Esc/Mixer. (Pic 8) At that time I bought a P94 dual esc/mixer from Action Electronics and got the 20 amp version to be on the safe side................. My ‘guardians’ did point out this was ‘over-kill’ but I had already got it. Now, when placing the unit on the mounting board I found that the heatsinks made it too high to fit in the Hull! So being a spoilt brat only child I ordered the 10 amp version and as usual it came very quickly from up here in Bangor. ( Will keep the other one for the next project............Happy Hunter??) Unboxed it and it looked just the same, heatsinks and all. (Pic 9/10 ) So at that moment there was a bit of a set-back so I rang Component Shop at Bangor, they said “take the heat sinks off and you have a P94 lite”! Such a simple answer and such a nice chap. (Pic 11 ) Now a quick 'measure up' before I have a glass of wine (Pic 12) and does it all fit...? Well it appears to at the moment! (Pic 13) Next time really going to screw down the components under the forward hatch and wire it up. NPJ

RSS P71 Sovereignty by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Many thanks for the Turnigy tip👍 much cheaper than the 20 quid Action /Component Shop version 😉 I hated wasting channels, and multi-channel sets were horrendously expensive😡 so many many 🤔 moons ago I made my own 4 function switch decoder for my destroyer, home made PCB, a few 5V CMOS chips, driver transistors and 5V 5Amp relay outputs. Pics 1, 2 & 3. Gave 4 functions Nav lights, Signal Lamps flashing, Whoop Whoop siren, and smoke unit from one proportional channel. Still seems to work 30 years later!😊 Around the same time I added a winch for the crane on the stern deck and also made a home cooked PCB with a simple forwards / backwards motor driver; again CMOS chips, driver TRs and relays. Pics 4 & 5. Pulled in well but there was no free-run mode on the winch so it needed something like a tin o' beans on the hook to run it out 🤔 . Lovely smelly etching for the PCBs 😆 Ferrous oxide!? Or was it ferric chloride? Never did like chemistry, I was a physics man. But it worked😊 Most of the bits were sort of 'lying around' at work😉 BTW: if anyone needs CMOS or 7400 series TTL chips I still have pretty good stock! Nowadays it's all plug n play and such things are miniaturising so fast one day they'll disappear up there own whatsits! Back then half the fun was doing it yourself and squeezing the utmost out of a 2 or 4 channel radio. Happy days? 🤔 Cheers Doug (AKA Rambling Man😁)

Motor problem by RichardSReade Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 1 month ago
Hi all I have located an 850 motor and mount at Howes Models in Kiddlington not too far from where I live in Malmesbury, for £22.50 however the prop shaft is 4BA, the coupling is not a problem as I can get the insert for the larger motor to fit the existing red coupling, but I can only seem to find 4mm 40 or 45mm propellers which are a fraction bigger than the 4BA which I know will screw on but they would have a bit of a wobble on the threads and could give me an out of balance vibration, apart from drilling out the old propshaft assy and fitting a new 4mm one what else can I do? or does anyone have a old 4BA prop they can let me have?

Motor problem by RichardSReade Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 1 month ago
I looked at the Cornwall model site and saw that, what i have decided to do is to leave the two Ni cad batteries in situ and I have weighed the rear/mid section lead weight and it is just 56 grams heavier than the 12 volt 7 amp/h lead acid alarm battery so I will use the 12 volt battery and ditch the lead, the weight of the boat will be the same, I also trimmed the lead at the front end so the bow will come up a fraction more. I have taken the prop of and measured it to be a 55mm, so I am going to fit the water intake, hopefully with some advice from the forum "techys"as to the position, in the photos this is where I can fit it so it is out of the way of the rudder and prop.what do you reckon, I can then get a suitable motor with a water jacket which will be happy to run on 12 volt with enough power not to get hot turning a 45 to 50 mm two blade "x" prop, as suggested by pmdevlin, I may get the Lloydsman up and running as all that needs is dusting of and batteries charging up, (two 12 volt 7amp/h in parallel) and the receiver from the commander fitted although I have not floated it I bought it as a complete working model in 2015, so it is about time it came out of dry dock, also I can look to repairing the rigging and finishing the Odessy Yacht I bought at the same time as the Llyodsman also in dry dock.

Underwater obstructions (dumped rubbish) by boaty Commander   Posted: 1 month ago
😁You certainly got it right Onetenor. Water does appear an attraction to persons who want to dump rubbish . I came across this once when sailing on a lake in a Liverpool park. My boat appeared to stall then suddenly regained forward motion but a little bit slower. When I brought it in, the prop was badly chewed up and there were scrape marks along the bottom of the hull. Guess it made contact with some submerged object that should have not been there. Hopefully technology would provide us with an answer one day; miniature sonar at an affordable price. Boaty

Twin motor control problem by pmdevlin Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
I've breezed through this so apologies if I missed something. There is no way the boat will magically go into reverse when transporting from the bench to the water. If it works on the bench, it will work in the water, out of interest, how do you know its going the right way on the bench? you might have the props on the wrong way around if directional, so its actually going in reverse on the bench. You can run multiple motors with one spectrum receiver, I have done it several times, with boats and planes, so its not that. Your later posts suggest more is amiss here, it could be a signal issue, as you say it sometimes works? Have you done a range test? If you have not, This needs to be the very next job you do. Not knowing specificallky what tx you have, eg the dx6i has a built in range test, and needs to be done from all angles, and should work at least 20 metres from the boat. This needs to be a must on all models. I do this every time I sail or fly, every time, I don't want to lose a model due to signal loss, which depending on the failsafe being set, can result in full throttle and loss of control, that's another topic I suppose! Mtrokiks are pretty much bullet proof, forget those Chinese blue things, the issue isn't the escs, its the set up. Get the mixer out, use a "y" lead between the receiver leads, disconnect both red wires, and use a separate receiver 6v feed into the receiver, plug in the esc's, watch the lights to see if they set ok (assuming you have throttle range set them separate first), then range check, nw throttle on the bench, one at a time, with a tissue behind the prop to ensure they are going the correct way, belive me when I say its an easy mistake to make thinking a twin set up has both props with the correct direction when one isn't!😊 I see you are at Bury, thats a big well established club, has anybody there taken a look for you, seeing it in action is so much easier than over a keyboard! If you fancy a trip to the Wirral Ill gladly sort it for you Paul

huntsman plan by Zdenek Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 1 month ago
Hi Guys! Both plans are available there: https://www.sarikhobbies.com/product/fairey-huntsman-mm680/ and there: https://www.sarikhobbies.com/product/fairey-huntsman-mm2111/ As far as the articles in MB 2016 are concerned, they were "just" a support for those who decide to buy the plan or an attraction for those interested in. As mentioned above, the article is very helpful. I have decided to for a build as well, when I've read the articles. I had a chance to enlarge the original by 1,5, approximately. I did it because my intention was to use and modify a plastic hull I've had at home. It's dimensions were the scale factor... After some work I've realized the enormous extent of changes necesary and switched to a scratch build... Being very slow builder, it is still in progress, hull almost ready, waiting for the deck, spray rails and started the preparation of parts for the cabin.

lipo storage charge by octman Captain   Posted: 1 month ago
Thanks for the input. Sorry to have started a bit off a heated discussion. My charger was behaving somewhat differently to what I expected, having already watched many You Tube videos, But at the end of the day all is well now, mainly due the fact that my original power supply was a bit too wimpy and has been replaced by one with the required output. My batteries have now been storage charged and ready for action and a full charge at a future date. All I need now is a boat to put them in. Chris