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>> Home > Tags > action

action electronics
action mixer
Test Run by simonk Seaman   Posted: 7 hours ago
Hi Rod, love to see some action shots or youtube link.

Hobby Engine 'Richardson' Tug Upgrade by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 days ago
Yep, a Large scale IC doing most of the work, RX/Decoder, and some power transistors for the outputs. Not easily mod-able 😡 Suggest you have a look at the little switch boards from Action (Component Shop) Neil. style='background-color:yellow;'>action-electronics/switches.html I made my own several years ago using CMOS chips and little 5V relays, but then I'm just like that😉 The Motor Sound Unit I understand looks after itself as it's coupled into the ESC control. So you just need switch boards for lights (nav and deck/cabin lights), smoke, other sound boards, e.g foghorn and/or ship's bell from Action? Have fun, Doug

Twin Esc/Mixer by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 days ago
Spot on Jarvo👍 Shame about the fry-up though! Neil, the ESC you have is for 20A (which is overkill!) so the wires are dimensioned for 20A plus a good margin for safety. The tiddly motors in Richardson and Southampton probably only draw about a tenth of that ca 2A or so. Therefore 'tiddly' wires as well😉 BTW: don't forget the fuses! The P95 Fuse/Indicator Boards from Action are quite useful for electronic novices, use standard car type blade fuses, and are dead easy to duplicate on a chunk of matrix (Vero) board😊 Happy modding, cheers Doug 😎

Twin Esc/Mixer by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 days ago
Having looked at the P94 self build diagrams the two positive and negative leads are connected together on the circuit board. The positive leads are connected by a thin copper track which I suspect would suffer if two mismatched (voltage wise) batteries were connected to each positive lead. By using two sets of leads the wiring is kept to smaller diameter and matches the two power distribution boards by ACTION. The instructions do warn against using separate batteries and there is a wiring diagram showing both sets of leads joined and fed via one large fuse to the battery. However the diagram on the description page shows fuses on each red lead which should be ignored and probably accounts for any confusion regarding battery connections. There can be problems (some are incompatible systems) with 2.4 sets due to the delay in the signal establishing after the ESCs have self set and sometimes when the BEC voltage drops due to high current demands. This can be overcome by changing the chip to a non self setting version or disabling the onboard BEC and using a separate Rx battery. Personally I use a separate battery wherever possible.

Twin motor control problem by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 days ago
Good luck John 👍 The 'hurricane' brought us a superb Indian Summer here in south Germany, blue skies and 25°C in Munich. 😊 Should last until Saturday, then the rain is back 🤔 It really is an ill wind that blows nobody any good! To avoid the binding timing problem Dave describes above use a separate RX batt and disconnect BOTH BECs!! Then only switch on the ESCs after the TX is bound with the RX. Several RC module manufacturers warn against BECs, e.g. Action Electronics! Happy sailing, Cheers Doug 😎

Twin Esc/Mixer by tomarack Commander   Posted: 3 days ago
Hi, look here, please... here is a clear overview of where to connect the components, but it seems that the current product is somewhat different. http://www. style='background-color:yellow;'>

3 x Brushless Motor control? by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 days ago
Hi All This Thread was started to seek help on Brushless motors. I have used and built Action kits for many years and was friends with Craig Talbot who introduced the range. I posted this link in response to the original post This unit is just for the mixer and does not include the ESCs and can therefore be plugged into and used with brushed or brushless ESCs. Doug' post previous to my comment showed the diagram for a mixer and twin ESCs that were for brushed motors. There are no connections at signal level to allow for the mixed brushless motor connections, only the one for the centre motor. Please read the thread title on Forum posts and keep comments relevant to the topic. If you wan't to ask about or discuss a different topic please post a new thread title.

Twin Esc/Mixer by NPJ Commander   Posted: 4 days ago
I have an Esc/Mixer from Action Electronics. A P94 which I am thinking of using to control the twin motors on a Richardson Tug. Now I am very new to this sort of thing and when I unpacked it I found it has two plastic panels attached to the circuit board at right angles and measuring 50mm or 2” up into the air. I cannot find any reference to these in the paper work. Are they just to attach the board to something or of greater significance? Also when connecting up the unit to the motors, are there any ‘special issues’ I need to be aware of? Help needed please. NPJ

3 x Brushless Motor control? by tomarack Commander   Posted: 4 days ago
Hi, as I wrote,I have no experience with Action Electronics products. Regarding the use of internal mixers in HKT6A , these did not suit for this case,neither Turnigy TGY9X.There is always one main signal as control and the other one(or more) as a signal dependent. I needed to mix two independent signals and that is why I chose an external simple mixer! To Dave M .. excuse me -I have no experience with brushless motors but in this case I do not know why it could not work. It is a mix of two control signals only ...What's the problem with that, if I use brushless motors?

Nitro Glycerine. by onetenor Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 5 days ago
Nitro Glycerine is made by the action of Nitric acid on Glycerine. I'm pretty sure adding Nitromethane to Glycerine won't create an explosive compound.I could be wrong of course so I'll put my tin hat on and get into me trench. In fact if it creates an explosive the best place to be Eh?👍

Layout and Limitations by NPJ Commander   Posted: 5 days ago
Layout and Limitations Although I am really quite desperate to get on and put a few bits in, it did strike me that before I mess the current systems up on the Tug, maybe I should find out how they work. So although I am leaving the Bridge/Wheelhouse until after the Hull layout is resolved, I need to check out what connections are made to what before I detach it from the Hull. So having a look in you see a busy circuit board and a plastic bottle! Pic 12 -16 What is needed is to determine which leads activate which features before I start chopping leads to separate Hull from Bridge. To this end I attached the standard battery and fired up the Tranny. I reconnected the leads that I had unplugged and switched the boat switch to on. Pic 17/18 Action of motors, lights in three sets and ‘smoker’ cables were identified, but I have not found the ‘horn’ yet. So that established what leads went to what and also raised the question for the future ‘what can be used later’. I noted that some cabling groups and routes from Hull to Bridge where given the ‘silicon treatment’ which I intend to reinstate before replacing the Deck. Having established how the setup works and what can possibly be retained, I removed the ‘standard’ battery, unplugged it all again and loaded potential ‘extras’ into the Hull to see how it would sit in the water. Now I can separate the Hull from the Bridge completely which enables me to have a good look at potential layout and consider weight and its distribution. I did in the early days mark the waterline as it was with standard equipment and also the CoG point fore/aft, for later comparisons. Forgot about Lateral but I assume centre line....................... Maybe pointless, but I made a drawing of the Hull and also laid out some of the components that may be used in the Hull itself. Pics 14/15. Currently the weight of these ‘extras’ amounts to 562 grams 19.8 ozs, from which must be deducted the ‘standard’ battery weight 104 grams 3.6 ozs, when considering real differences, so 458 grams, 16.2 ozs and still below waterline So I now have all these bits, the boat in three pieces and I am considering putting up a banner in the garage which would read... All the gear and no idea! Next move will be trial runs on the new motor control set up and checking out the sound system using the Transducers. NPJ

3 x Brushless Motor control? by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 5 days ago
tomrack and Doug This thread is about brushless Motor Control. I suggest you start a new thread about brushed motor control as the systems you mention will not work with brushless motors. The Action P40e is suitable as it does not have the brushed ESCs

3 x Brushless Motor control? by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 5 days ago
I agree Tom, 👍 Much easier. That's the principle I will be using on my destroyer refit. I have a combined twin-ESC and mixer module from Action Electronics and will have speed and steering both on the right stick. Greetings Doug 😎

3 x Brushless Motor control? by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 7 days ago
Hi Slimnot Welcome to the site. It's possible the unit is the Action P40e marine motor mixer.

Hobby Engine Richardson Upgrade by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 18 days ago
Doug Mark is right.👍 I have fitted transducers in my 1:16 Trent on the hull sides above the waterline and they worked as well as the 8" mylar speaker I had previously using with the ACTION sound unit. This weighed a ton and the reduced weight made the model sail much better. This tug has little access inside and very little hull above the waterline. I'd stick to the bigger model in your fleet like the PT109 and do a build blog. I hope you are going to start a Sothhampton build blog so we can follow your progress.