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>> Home > Tags > action

action electronics
action mixer
3D sanding discs. by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 days ago
Hi Colin, Shucks!! Found two versions of the 3D sander, XL for €79, Multi-Motion for €129. But both Sold Out, RATS! 😡 style='background-color:yellow;'>action=show&sessionID=87470065151878304987470065&lang=en&page=shop-produktliste.html&cat=33&subcat=3330&catname=grinding&arcode=x There is another version for € 84.30 but looks a bit boxy and not so ergonomic. 🤔 style='background-color:yellow;'>action=show&sessionID=87470065151878304987470065&lang=en&page=shop-produktliste.html&cat=32&subcat=3230&catname=grinding,%20planing&arcode=x Ciao, Doug

3D sanding discs. by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 days ago
Hi Colin, seems Bohler lost interest in the Minitool range about 9 years ago and it was taken over by a company called Kaleas! I think you'll find what you need down near the bottom of this page - style='background-color:yellow;'>action=show&sessionID=45094535151868298745094535&lang=en&page=shop-produktliste.html&cat=90#90&arcode=x&catname=ACCESSORIES Cheers Doug 😎

Shoreham life boat by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 5 days ago
Good action shots of the real thing in action. See how they raise the whip aerials and mast after launch. Must be interesting in a real blow. Thanks for sharing

happy hunter by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 6 days ago
Spitfire With plasticard it helps to heat in warm water when forming curves. Make a wooden (Balsa) template heat the plasticard, bend to shape and hold in place until cool. I recommend you use MEK plastic adhesive with plasticard, the merest touch will allow capillary action to carry the liquid between the joints, I use a fine (old) paint brush. The glue is quick drying and actually welds the joint. Like superglue a little is best, too much and you risk melting the whole job.

upgrading Turnigy i6 to 10 channels by octman Captain   Posted: 14 days ago
Hello again, sorry not been able to reply to the last few posts. I did the upgrade before I had ever done the binding. As I said, the display screen that shows bars moving in relation to the stick and switch movement shows all 10 channels, as opposed to it's original display of only 6, but using the switches, which I have allocated to the new channels, causes no reaction whatsoever. I bound the receiver(10 channel) and a servo plugged into each channel in turn only reacted to channels 1 to 6. I have followed the various YouTube videos, (some are better than others), and cannot see that I have done anything wrong, but I will have another go in a day or two. Fingers crossed, or stick with 6 channels. Chris

Bargain Tomkat by bilzin Lieutenant   Posted: 14 days ago
Somebody was either disillusioned with model boats or impecunious to the Nth degree because he let me have this BRAND NEW Ripmax Tomkat complete with Motor, ESC, brand new steering servo,action man driver,decals and instructions for a brownie with a bluey postage. Not my usual type of model but will make a fun change down at our 'postage stamp' lake (?)

upgrading Turnigy i6 to 10 channels by octman Captain   Posted: 15 days ago
Thanks folks. I have assigned the various switches to their own channels, which is where the problems start, as, although allocated, the new channels are all "dead". Everything in the upgrade seems to have worked, except the lack of action when the switches are thrown. I still only have the original 6 channels. The display screen, which shows bars moving left or right from a central point, has changed from 6 to 10, and as I mentioned above, the switches can all be assigned to channels, but on the display screen nothing happens when the switches are operated, and a servo connected to the receiver on any one of the new channels remains inactive.

New build by Gascoigne Commander   Posted: 16 days ago
A working board 24” x 16” in 1” medium density fibre would be about right for you Billings static model of a Thames barge, although a large tray would help in containing everything between building sessions. Some suggested tools in the photo including wood glues and sandpaper (rough and smooth). Always worth reading and understanding the kit instructions, and keeping to the building sequence given. Billings have a reputation for producing quality well equipped kits. I know you will derive much satisfaction from making your first model and I wish you well. Enjoy. Never be shy in asking advice.

HMS Sussex by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 16 days ago
Now attached to correct vid (I Hope 🤔) Simply brilliant 👍👍👍 Highly appropriate soundtrack too "Sound action stations Number One, Tally Ho"!!! 😉 Must get around to sticking my HMS Suffolk together!

LiPo Battery Monitor by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 16 days ago
Hi Both, so do I saga, and here's what they look like folks!😉 To answer your actual question Andy; you can only 'set up' the alarm voltage; range 2.7 to 3.8V depending on Lixx type, or OFF. As saga says they are preset to 3.3V. Setting up as such is done by repeatedly pressing the little (and I MEAN itsy bitsy teeny weeny😉!) button at the opposite end from the pins. With the display face up and the pins facing you ground (black) is on the far left; as in attached pics of the device in action. If I'm just doing a quick bench check I set the alarm to OFF to stop the ear splitting PEEEP 😡 For use in the boat I leave it on set at 3.3V for LiPos. Hope this helps, cheers Doug 😎

PS Waverley by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 17 days ago
Simply brilliant 👍👍👍 Highly appropriate soundtrack too "Sound action stations Number One, Tally Ho"!!! 😉 Something went wrong here? This applies to David's brilliant HMS Sussex video that I just watched !? 🤔 But this vid is neat as well, 'cool vibes' to go with it 👍

Chine stringers, cabin roof, chamfering and hull by Penfold63 Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 17 days ago
Ok, plans didn’t quite work out on hours on the boat over the last couple of weeks. I got the chine stringers fitted on 18 Jan, 30 mins soak and then about an hour’s work to get them properly in place pinned, on the inside lamination only, and glued. Deck supports fitted too. Spent the weekend helping my daughter move house so no boat action. On 22 January, Tom Foster, aka Boatshed, did me a massive favour by finding a copy of the Model Boat Magazine from June 2012, and scanning the pages with a review of the kit I’m building. You’re a legend Tom, thanks. I spent the next couple of days busy watching Bristol City, working and ordering the ESC, Mtronics Marine 25, some Eze Kote to seal the insides, once done, and ordering primer and paint having chosen my colour scheme. I did another 30 mins sorting out the cabin roof and rails on 24 January. Chamfered the rebates ready for fitting the hull bottom maybe an hour.

Richards 48" Swordsman by rmwall107 Lieutenant   Posted: 19 days ago
Hi, I have just posted a video of the boat in action (sorry about the thumbs in shot). See what you think. Richard

SRN 4 by Gascoigne Commander   Posted: 21 days ago
An old favourite from my hovercraft phase. Runs really well on land and especially water. Although no reverse, it will auto-rotate on the hover, so when pointing in the desired direction on with the propulsion with the brushless motor and away she flies. Realistic in operation. Looking a bit work worn now. Could do with up-dating with Lipo batteries which would make it even lighter. Seen here with lift motor running with skirt inflated. Steering interesting, with twin air rudders. Must get some videos of the action.

Marblehead Sailboat upgraded by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 25 days ago
Ron The switch is designed for internal usage. The rubber boot does provide some protection but at the end of the day you have an electrical switch that will be subjected to electrical reaction between the copper, metal case and water (saline will react very quickly). The slightest damp usually results in the copper in the black wire and whatever it is connected to going black. It no longer works as a conductor and has to be replaced in total. You could mount the switch in side the cabin and use a short length of wire to push pull from outside. Some slide switches have a hole in the switch knob for this purpose. We often used this with model aircraft and it works well with model boats. Doug's solution may help delay the process but the end result is inevitable and in my experience the black wire syndrome usually manifests itself when the model is sailing.