I use a hood unit like you would find in your kitchen over your stove to exhaust fumes, soldering soot, fine particles too. It is vented to the outside. Two stagelight and variable speed van. I got this unit from a Recycle store in Canada they go various names. Other than this, there are dust extraction units such as found in wood shops. Festo has small units as do stores that sell Turning & Lathe equipment.
Brrrrrrrrilliant! 👍👍👍 Best 'tin bashing' I've ever seen. Would love to see video of them in action 😉 Type 21!? Navy or industry? I've seen the insides of many ships, from Colossus class carrier to Type 45, but never the 21. Keep up the good work. Cheers Doug 😎
This brings back memories to when I was a 7 year old in 1959. During the family holiday in Scarborough we visited Peas Holme Park and there was some action on the boating lake. It appeared to be an enactment of the Battle of the Atlantic with some very large models of ships of the era shooting it out. I recall that some of boats these sank and I have a vivid memory of a merchant vessel being shelled with flares being set off on the deck to simulate a direct hit. Does anyone have details, ie did the ships have a person on board or where they radio controlled and I also noted some wires above the lake which dive bombers ran along with imitation bombs Does this event still take place as I know that at one time persons wanted to stop it due to Germany now being one of our NATO allies. Boaty😎
Hi Doug, Your Ark Royal, what is the deck colouring on her boat decks? Of course the Brits invented all those mods. They have had the most actual action! Are the arrester wires on your model? If so, what is the spacing between them? As you will see in my pic, taken today, the flight deck is armoured. My problem is the decks of all the small gun platforms etc. Also the deck surrounding the funnel? That might well have been armour. I assume you are in the UK? I am in Ontario. Norm
Well there I was with the Kingfisher motoring along on the pond when it suddenly lost power, nothing??? No forward no reverse. I could give the motor forward and reverse but no reaction. Fortunately the breeze blew the boat into shore along with me using the rudder control. Upon landing and a cursory inspection I saw that the universal nylon had broken off at the metal connection. But, upon the workbench it was discovered the motor mount had come off the hull structure. It was just totally free, it lifted right out of the hull after removing the speed control connectors. Maybe, it is time to replace the geared motor to a direct drive. Any suggestions? I use brushed motors.
Hi All, This is not directly Model Boats related and more for members living in the US at the moment, but it does affect this website in some part and could become a more global issue in the longer term. For those living in the US I do urge you to visit the link below and sign the petition to stop your Internet Service Providers having the ability to control the speeds of websites you visit. Today is in an internet-wide day of action to save net neutrality. https://www.battleforthenet.com/july12 If Internet Service Providers get their way, websites like this could be censored, slowed down, blocked, or forced to charge extra fees. It would be the end of the open web. Please help stop them and keep the internet open, fast and equal for all. Vote for an open and fair internet. Check out the press coverage here: https://www.fightforthefuture.org/news/2017-07-10-largest-we...http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/blogs-trending-40494909 How does this affect me? * In the US, the FCC will begin to allow ISP's to control what you see & do online in the next 60 days. This includes creating fast lanes for websites who pay and slow lanes for the rest. * In the EU, rules still require that all internet traffic has to be treated equally, without blocking or slowing down certain data... for now... If you don't agree with ISPs blocking and slowing down websites, or you don't agree with paying more for faster connections to certain services, then please show your support and help spread the word. Although this is primarily affecting the FCC laws in the US, the petition is not limited to US residents and in time will come to affect us all. The internet should be fast and equal. Thank you for showing your support and helping small websites like this receive equal rights to a fast internet. Model Boats Website Team
Might have, but it was pinned with brass pins as well, so will be sealing inside with epoxy resin, then coating the hull with eezicote and extra fine glass cloth before painting and vanishing. Well at least she's stripped for action. It must have taken years off her. (Maybe I should get the wife dipped)? Don't tell her.
Having spent so much time adding fittings and detail to the removable cabin roofs and hatches the last thing I want is for them to be dislodged and see them sink without trace 😱! Having used some amazingly strong neodymium magnets to hold the foam tanks securely in the rear well I was confident that they would be more than powerful enough to hold the various roofs and hatches in place so I scoured eBay for some suitable sizes and shapes. I settled on two sizes, 25x6x3mm and 12x6x3mm and ordered 10 of each, more than I need but so useful to have in the bits box. A word of caution with these magnets, always slide them apart and avoid letting them crash together as the impact can easily break them into pieces, as I discovered. Thankfully I have some spares ! For the engine roof magnets I made a couple of small plywood brackets into which the larger magnets are fixed with epoxy and these were in turn epoxied onto the inside faces of the engine room walls. The mating magnets were let into the underside of the roof frame and firmly glued in place after double checking the mating polarity and orientation. An identical method was used for the forward cabin roof but using the smaller magnets. For the removable panel in the centre section over the motor I used a single pair of small magnets on the rear edge only as the front of this panel is held under the cabin door in a rebated part of the floor that forms the threshold of the door. I had to fit a small brass handle in the rear of this panel so that I could pull the panel up and away as there is no other means of doing so without, I made a ‘hook tool’ from some brass wire for this purpose. The floor panel in the rear cockpit is secured on it’s rear edge by a pair of the larger magnets, the forward edge being held down by the towing hook bracing stays. The removable hatch in the rear cockpit floor was also fitted with two pairs of the smaller magnets let into the underside of the hatch and the hatch framing of the floor. One of the brass handles that I that had previously set into the hatch was bent up slightly so that I could use my brass ‘hook tool’ to release it from the magnets hold. So now all the roofs and hatches are firmly secured by the concealed magnets and are easily removable without any fiddly catches or fixings and now there’s now very little chance of them coming adrift and disappearing! The final finishing detail are the two RAF ensigns, one on the mast and one on the stern flagstaff. The ensigns were made by Mike Allsop Scale Flags & Ensigns who was very helpful and advised me on the most suitable sizes for the 1:12 scale of my boat. His flags are extremely well made, excellent value for money and look very realistic when flying and fluttering !! Mike can be contacted at: email@example.com or by telephone on 01476 573331 They are hand made from a fine and flexible silk cloth that behaves like a real flag even in a slight breeze and are easy to fix with diluted PVA glue. The smaller flag was fitted to the lanyard on the mast as described in the supplied instruction sheet. The ensign on the stern flagstaff was very carefully formed and glued so that the flag was not fixed in one place and could rotate around the shaft of the flagstaff as this piece screws into a brass fitting on the rear deck and this will ensure that it will always find it’s own position. A small brass ring was formed and glued to the flagstaff below the ensign so it would always stay at the top and not slip down. So, all hatches battened down, flags raised and ready for action. That’s just about everything finished now barring any trimming and ballasting required and is ready for it’s maiden voyage. I hope that all of you that have been following my blog have had as much enjoyment reading about my build as I have had in the building and finishing process 😁 And a big thank you to all that have contributed so much with encouraging comments, suggestions and advice 👏 😍
Hi! I've borrowed with pride an idea from ballast who is doing a blog on his 12th scale Cygnus. I have recently purchased two action figures from eBay and with a bit of paint and some yellow marigold gloves will be making them some oilskins. Not sure what boat you want them for but action figures can be painted to suit. Total cost for my figures was just over £2 (marigolds acquired from the sink....) Graham
Hi robhenry Thank you for your complimentary remarks. I didn't really consider building the boat with twin motors and rudders as I wanted to build the kit 'out of the box' to a great extent and also because I was rediscovering the hobby and all of the new technology and techniques that it now benefits from. With the experience I and knowledge that I have now gained I would be not so hesitant to consider such things. I'm grateful for your contribution to Mike's data on the RAF boats as it will have no doubt filtered down to the benefit of my boat build. As I have discovered, surprisingly little information on these boats exists or has been made public despite their popularity with model builders and it would be a great thing if everyone were to pool their knowledge and resources to try and redress this situation. I will certainly try to photograph the boat in action if I can manage the controls and a camera at the same time 😁 Rob.
Doug: Yes, I was contemplating the idea of running the radar via small dc with a separate switch, that way I wouldn’t need to use a channel. I have been inspecting lots of different wiring diagrams to set up my electronics from Action Electronics. Looking at them I’m beginning to understand how to embrace the project and of course, you guys will give me the last word. By the way, I love your models, they look impeccable inside and out. Julian😎