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>> Home > Tags > action

action electronics
action mixer
Painting by MouldBuilder Admiral   Posted: 10 hours ago
I must admit that the painting process is not my favourite. It takes so long and time is always at a premium due to work commitments. I rush it a bit so that the build can continue. I fitted all of the windows into the deck structure and covered them with the low tack film. I then primed, two coats, painted, two coats followed by two coats of lacquer. I am quite pleased with the results even though it is not perfect. I decided not to fit the deck until all of the electronics, including the ESC, battery and receiver had been installed. This is because one of the big problems with this model is the lack of room to work in once the deck is in place. Another problem I encountered was the fitting of the tiller cranks onto the rudders. If the instructions are followed, it is almost impossible the adjust or remove them once the deck has been fitted. I solved the problem by reversing the cranks and bending the connecting wire to miss a bulkhead support. The screws can now be reached from the deck opening. I have now completed the majority of the painting and have started to assemble the remaining parts. Currently I am doing the wiring of the lighting and making a couple of circuit boards. There are a lot of wires involved so to reduce the amount I have decided to us e a common negative. (Cannot remember what this is called right now). There are still a lot of wires and they are mostly coming out from the cabin structure. I have decided to introduce some nine pin connectors to make cabin removal a lot easier. This is quite a big job and will take a little while. I really enjoy this bit. The results add that little bit of extra satisfaction when it all works as it should.🤓 The top search light assembly came as a bit of a surprise. It is manufactured from nickel silver plate and requires soldering together. Even though I am a precision engineer, I have not soldered a box since I was at school. Once I stopped burning my fingers with the heat, I quite enjoyed the assembly even though it would have been useful to have an extra hand and took the best part of today to complete.😤 I can honestly say that I have enjoyed most of this build and even though earlier on I was thinking to avoid Aero-naut models in the future, I have changed my mind. They are very cleverly designed. I expect to complete this model some time in March. That would be the first for me to complete in recent times even though I have two others on the go and one new one in its box ready for a Summer start.😊

Mtronics W-tail marine mixer connections. by JOHN Lieutenant   Posted: 5 days ago
hi ya Colin, sorry for the delay - but I am going to open up a can of worms here. Although a lot of people use the 'Y' tail or the 'W' tail mixer from MTroniks or other Companies to actually mix two speed controllers and a rudder movement in the marine environment, (personally) I don't think this is effective as a dedicated marine mixer. The reason for this, is, I built the Forceful tug a little while ago and I incorporated the 'W' tail mixer in it for independent control of the 2 paddles and the rudder and when this model did 'sea trials' 😊 on the lake & in the test tank (the bath) 👍I was never 100% happy with this. It didn't seem to perform quite right, especially in reverse. The model seemed to go better in one direction than the other. One motor always seemed to lead the other motor so therefore the model would steer off course and you were always correcting it. When I eventually checked the speed of each motor individually with a tachometer I found that one motor was indeed increasing in revs so - I took out the 'W' mixer and went for tank steering (using 2 individual sticks on the transmitter). This was a lot better and saved the day at the lake. Then I wend and had a look at what mixers are available and yes there is the ACTion P94 which in my eyes is extremely expensive - but - there are one or two on Ebay market but also there is a guy called Alan Bond he runs a company called Forge Electronics and they make an independent mixer which I use myself. I find it extremely good. 👍 the name of the game though is for yourself to try setting up the 'W' tail mixer and playing around with it or you could look at individual mixers that do not have the speed controllers built in with them i.e. there is one from ACTion as well, there is one from Forge and as I say there are 2 or 3 off the web market place. Have a look - here are a couple of pics of the Forceful and my set up. The speed controllers I am using in this tug are Electronize and it's Alan Bond's original mixer which used to be sold from Technobots - but he opened up business on his own and I will put a link on when I find it.

Mtronics W-tail marine mixer connections. by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 6 days ago
Hi Colin, Try this version, P94 for brushed motors, from Action Electronics at Component Shop. Only throttle and rudder inputs with automatic mixing. I have one of these I intend to use for my long thin destroyer, or maybe the Graf Spee. Or the P40 for Brushless, same operating principle. style='background-color:yellow;'>action-electronics/mixers-multifunction.html. I may get one of these for my PT109. heers, Doug 😎

Roof magnets by Joe727 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 10 days ago
Thanks for posting the jig with the cam action, nice simple and looks pretty effective. I will have to try that soon on some current work. Cheers, Joe

Fairmile D 1/24 Scale Build by reilly4 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 27 days ago
Sakibian, My friend Graham built his E-boat with a fibreglass hull but scratch-built everything else. He does magnificent detail work. For you to build this hull you first need to get the plans to the scale you want to build. 1/24 is good for these models. The cross sections are essential. You need to determine how many bulkhead frames you will require. You won't require as many as shown on their plan and photos - maybe less than half - as many as will enable you to support the stringers to give you a shape of the hull on to which you can fix the planking or skin. The frames you choose need to be at or very close to cross sections, so you can use them to mark and cut your frames. I use 5mm plywood. There is a photo of my Fairmile D frame earlier in this series of posts. One of my earliest posts on this website was a Youtube video with the E-boat and my Fairmile D in action with sound effects.

Fairmile D 1/24 Scale Build by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 27 days ago
Hi biker, Depends on whether you want to build true scale model and build it 'right', or just a near scale 'Runabout'. Rowen has learned (with a little help form his friends 😉) to build it right which is extremely satisfying and the correct detail underwater truly compliments his superb detailing above the waterline. To me the two are inseparable. Seems to me that that is what Andy wants as well. I applaud him. About time we gave him some constructive answers - but first we need to know something about his boat:- Length, beam, probable max weight? If all you want is a near scale quickbuild fast runabout John there are plenty of ARTR/RTR options on the market. But then; that's just my opinion - and whadda I know!😁 Look forward to at least some pics / vids of your boat in action Biker. Cheers, Doug 😎

Fairmile D 1/24 Scale Build by RHBaker Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 27 days ago
Unless you are determined to build to scale, the single motor/screw combination is probably the best. Have encountered several challenges with my triple motor/screw Brave Borderer (the predecessor to the Perkasa) layout. Now have the satisfaction though of setting off to build a scale model and have achieved it.

Holy SMOKE !! Video, Tin Can Madness by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 28 days ago
Hi Joe, When you click on the Media File icon have you ever noticed the [Download] button in the top left corner of the media window!!?? 😲 Click on that and you are given the choice to Open or Download the file 😉 BTW: to answer your question above - No scale railway at all! I intend to use the loco smokers in RC conversions of 1/350 scale plastic navy ships, such as; HMSs Ark Royal, Colossus, King George Fifth, Prince of Wales, Exeter, and KMSs Bismarck and Graf Zeppelin. As well as RMS Titanic and my 1/128 HMS Belfast and Graf Spee. Two more perhaps for my Southampton tug. Have used them in the dim and distant past for my 1/72 scale RN destroyer. Built a little RC pulse decoder using CMOS chips followed by a transistor driver to switch a relay supplying the smoker coil. See pics of self etched decoder board. The other three outputs are for various lighting effects and destroyer 'Whoop whoop' siren. 30 years old now and still going 😊 The smokers work pretty well just using the capillary action of the thin glass feeder tubes. So no wick to come into contact with a a hot wire coil 😊 They were mounted on a bridge across the cap of a large spray can which I used as the oil tank. Exhaust used the chimney effect of a 10mm alu tube running up the funnel. I'm also still pondering how to turn the usual white steam/smoke black! Cheers, Doug 😎

The bow blocks & outer keel by rolfman2000 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
This was the part I had been waiting for. As I was only 12 when I made mine, my Uncle Cyril was given the job of shaping, and he made a right pigs arse out of it. I had to do a lot of filling and sanding to correct it. I notice you had the "glad it's over" reaction. I reckon my reaction will be very similar. Thanks for sharing Robbob. 😊

Paint for Thames River Police Boat. by robbob Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Hi Mike. Yes I have seen the that site and also some interesting Pathe films on YouTube featuring the Thames Police in action, some in colour but you can't really identify the hull colour. See: I would like the hull to be an authentic colour for the period when these boats operated during the 50s' & 60's. The modern boats seem to have a much lighter blue colour on the hull. Thanks for your suggestion though. Rob.

Sea Queen Frames by DodgyGeezer Commander   Posted: 2 months ago
The seller doesn't care about that. And Ebay doesn't care about that. I have had this battle. Ebay deals in volume sales with some simple rules. So long as the seller is willing to refund unhappy customers they can continue trading. Ebay are not competent to determine what counts as 'not well drawn' for a set of model plans, and won't get into that argument. Ebay will go through a standard procedure if copyright breach is alleged. From their site: "EeBay has created the VeRO program to protect intellectual property owners from trademark, patent or copyright infringement. Property right owners register with the VeRO program by sending eBay legal documentation and proof that they own the specified intellectual property. Having registered with eBay’s VeRO program, these property right owners monitor listings on eBay, or they use third-party web monitoring agents that help warn them of infringement threats. When their rights are violated, the owner or a representative can file a complaint by filling out the NOCI (Notice of Claimed Infringement) form, complete with proof of the violation, and sending it to eBay by email or fax. eBay then investigates the issue and notifies the seller via email that a VeRO participant requested that their listing be removed. The listing will remain suspended unless and until a settlement is reached between the seller and the property rights owner." Unless the Aerokits copyright holder takes VeRO action there is nothing you can do to stop copyright breach. This makes me quite unhappy, because I would like to put the full set of Aerokits plans up on my Old Boat Plans website, but I will only do it with copyright holder approval. If you want to do anything about it you would be best advised to contact Lesro and encourage them to do something about it -

MK5 14" Skimmer Tinplate Clockwork Battleship by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
Worked very well Neil👍👍 Technique noted for future use 😁 Any vids of your marvellous creations in action available??? Cheers, Doug 😎

Aeronaut Pilot Boat by onetenor Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
Talking of glues for plastic I have a bottle of Plastic Magic (liquid) which you apply to the joint at one end using a brush. It runs by capillary action along the joint or press the joint together for those less accurate. I have not yet found a plastic it won't join. Be very very sparing using on any of the foams as it eats some of them. Test on scrap first. On E Bay/Amazon you can find Por type glues unbranded much cheaper but equally effective. Search for Depron glues. Happy sticking👍👍

Smoke generator by marlina2 Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 3 months ago
I have made a smoke generator using a piezo transducer and a P68s variable speed brush less fan controller from action electroncs. The transducers tend to be 24v dc and are relatively cheap (£2-£3 each). I am using S3 lipos so I only have 11.4 available but a very cheap variable output unit gives me 24v. The fan is connected in-between the receiver channel for the throttle and the speed controller. The fan speed increases with the throttle and follows the throttle speed regardless of direction. The net effect is quite pleasing for diesel exhaust simulation, with a steady stream when the stick is centralised and the fan just idling. On fwd/rev throttle movement you get an increasing amount of exhaust dependent on speed. I have this installed in my Forceful paddler with twin funnels. The effect is quite realistic but can be difficult to see. I am looking for a another transducer that will produce more vapour. in its present configuration it will run for around 3 hours before topping up is required.

aeronaut classic by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
Hi Sandgrounder, Good stuff from Canabus BUT- If you are going to parallel connect batteries there are some safety rules to observe to prevent potential fires on board - ESPECIALLY IF USING TWO LiPos!! The two batteries must be identical types with the same capacity and state of charge. Otherwise the one with higher voltage will try to charge the other. This can result in high currents which represent a high fire risk - most especially with LiPo Power 😡 To prevent this you need a pair of high current blocking diodes between the batteries - fast Schottky diodes. If you are electronically minded this is easy to do yourself. If not, Component Shop market an Action Electronics module to do the job. Spec attached as PDF. Link to purchase is below You can buy the board here (No I don't have shares in the company but have used several A.E. modules and they are well made good quality👍) I think 15 quid is a good price to protect the rest of your investment 😉 Have fun, cheers, Doug 😎