Hi Paul As I already have the Action sound unit (Whitby lifeboat engine sound, my model) and a 20w amp I sourced some resonators from Holland www.soundimports.eu/. They were out of stock for the initial order so I bought two lower power exciters to see what they were like. Attached to the back deck of my Trent and plenty of volume but the vibration was very visible. I have now received some 24Watt (Dayton Audio DAEX25FHE-4 Framed High Efficiency 25mm Exciter 24W 4 Ohm) similar to yours and they are attached to the hull sides above the waterline and sound great on the bench. Will be trying on our lake as soon as the weather improves but should be as good as the big 8" speaker I was using and several pounds lighter so the model will sit correctly on the waterline. Thanks for sharing this sound medium Mine are attached by 3M VHB (Very High Bond) adhesive so I am hoping if I need to move or replace I can buy some glue to re-attach Dave
The hoses, along with every other aspect of the build are really good. The boat is a credit to model making. It's wonderful that the asylum has these facilities, and modelling is such good therapy 😉. You must show the boat in action now. Well done bro.😊
Aha! 'Galloping Ghost' 😲 Throttle probably by 'blipping' between Full Power and Idle. Some sets had two throttle buttons; one for increase and one for decrease. Your rudder control was typical for the escapement type action; 'flapping' between full right and full left. After your full right command you needed one push to re-centre then another push for full left. To make two successive right turns you would have to quickly go through full left on the way! 🤔 Tap tap tap - Much like Smart-phoning today!! 😉 Servos with geared Mighty Midget motors!? Cheers Doug 😎
Thanks Dave,no the dinghy had no torque reaction on a steady throttle just when the engine was "blipped".I started with a butterfly flap in the nozzle which worked ok,replaced that with a steerable tube beyond the nozzle which also worked ok and finally with the nozzle itself steerable mounted on a flexible pipe which did not work (the flexible pipe was far from flexible when full of water at pressure!).The question was because I have built a three point hydro with a strimmer engine which becomes two point due to torque,lifting one sponson as the throttle is opened.
over the last few weeks we have had to witness extreme events with in our country and I fore one have spent a lot of time reflecting on these events . and after the last attack on our Muslim citizens in London and the reaction of the people at that attack in restraining the driver and handing him over to the police again there actions make me proud to be britsih
Recently constructed ballasted and tested radio controlled model boat with working searchlight, navigation lights and Ship's Bell. Needs finishing by repainting, weathering to suit and a few minor additions (e.g. Anchor - supplied). Includes: Graupner HOTT may-10 transmitter and receiver JP ENERG-PRO NiMH flat 7.5v battery NiMH Battery Charger 230 457RE5401 Electric Motor ESC Viper Marine 15 Action Electronics P43 relay switches Mylar 5m round speaker for bell Spare ballast £150:00 Ono Collection only, please, due to weight of ballast. Based in Weston-super-Mare, Somerset. Selling to fund purchase of another - fun is in the making!
Hi Joe Did some more research and found a video on the Deluxe Site https://www.deluxematerials.co.uk/en/scale-plastics/15-pin-f... This really is a very fine nozzle dispenser and uses capillary action to deliver just the right amount of solvent to produce an invisible joint. They also recommend using for superglue accelerator by applying after the joint is closed to assist the setting process. Much neater way than brush or spray and will not result in marks on the surrounding area. For anyone building fine scale models a really good aid. Cheers Dave
The esc stuff is all working now. So i have just hooked up a LM2577 Voltage Booster input 3.5 - 30V, output up to 30V adjustable The idea is to have 24 volts battery input and the output stays at 12 volts. Having just said that it has come from action electronics and does not work .....Again. So I will have to stick with 12 volts .... so far as electronize esc,s go there heavy duty and also used so I have been told on the robots used in robot wars..
Hi Doug Know it well and used to build my own from a published circuit using now discontinued chip. Misleading for a dual set up possibly. If there is no switch provided the two switch wires can confuse some, like my friend. His wouldn't work with the BEC disconnected. It was a dual set up connected to an Action mixer. Has to use a separate rx battery to set up the rx before the ESC. It's 2.4 and takes longer than the ESC so doesn't provide the correct mid point for the ESC to find. By switching rx on first all is OK. Both ESCs have the red lead disconnected so are dead as are the motors until the switch is thrown. There is built in suppression in the BEC circuit which is not enabled in one ESC with your set up. On switch on the motor runs for half a second and I assume takes a big chunk of current. Using the switch gives better control and allows for each motor to switch on one at a time. If one set of wires are shorted and both ESCs wired thro a Y lead both motors will arm at the same time and might produce some unpredictable results. I agree its good to see Sonar is up and running and happy. Dave