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>> Home > Tags > action

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Graupner Jumbo 540 motors by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 5 hours ago
Hi Will, Sounds good to me👍 I like the Action Electroncs stuff as well, have their dual ESC with rudder mixer which I want to try in my long thin destroyer to reduce the turning radius. Was misled about the SLA by a previous post🤔 Makes sense re the BEC which I believe is 5V 1.2A. I prefer a separate RX batt anyway😉 BUT: if you run a 6V NiMh down to 5.6V you are close to the Deep Discharge zone which will seriously damage the battery and drastically shorten it's life 😲 Threshold voltage is 1.0V per cell, so take erratic control as a warning that the battery is flat and come home soon! Look forward to your Sea Trials report. Cheers, Doug

Graupner Jumbo 540 motors by Will-I-Am Petty Officer   Posted: 6 hours ago
Doug, The 6volt battery is currently an NiMh battery not an SLA. The problem was that according to Mtroniks the minimum voltage to the ESC to adequately run the BEC connection is 6volts. That is why I was getting erratic control when the battery voltage was 5.6 volts. The action speed controller will work 2-12 volts and I am going to use a separate receiver battery as suggested by Dave Milbourn just to make sure. Regards Will

SA Valour Class Frigate by Glyn Seaman   Posted: 2 days ago
Sad to say, I'm not actually a member of the Centurion Model Boat Club, despite having lived here for a number of years. But I'm sure the guys at the club would love having your model sailing there. Perhaps one day I'll have the time to venture to Emmarentia Dam to see the Spioenkop and all the other boats of the GMBC in action. Best regards, Glyn

Park lakes by RHBaker Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 7 days ago
That was Peasholm Park and I remember them too. According to Google the naval battles still continue. Must be one of the longest actions in history!

Leaking Boat! by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 8 days ago
Hi Neville, Some intriguing suggestions here 😉 Good luck with the bicycle pump 😁 To be brutally frank! There are no short cuts to leak proofing an old wooden hull properly🤔 1 Internal deck / xyz mounting notwithstanding, if there's something wrong with the hull I want to know it so I can fix it - for good! If the probable source of the leak is hidden by some internal deck or mounting for xyz it has to come out! 2 To be honest, looking closely at your pics of the hull underside it's obvious she has had a few knocks. I would want to sand back, seal and repaint at least the red underside. Having so cleaned the hull off I would closely inspect all joints around the keel and chines and look for signs of previous water intrusion and soaking into to keel especially - potential delamination / capillary action through the keel or joints. When the hull is fully dried out and sanded back I would seal it with a couple of coats of Ezekote; the first coat you can thin with a little warm water so that it soaks into the wood better. Don't overdo it, about 10-20% water is enough. Second coat pure resin. If it looks 'patchy' give it another coat of pure resin. Dries so fast all this doesn't take long. Had to do all this on my fish cutter hull, Gina2 - see Blog! Was a sieve to begin with, afterwards she passed her ballast test with flying colours😊 See also my Sea Scout Jessica Blog. After that repeat your bath test, with ballasting to waterline, and KEEP AN EYE ON IT so you can see where any watter creeps in from!😉 If you take a short cut now you may well have to do it again (properly) some time😁 cheers, Doug 😎

Range Safety Launch? by NPJ Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 10 days ago
Post 2 Range Launch? The bath test has shown up a leak……………….. Have not tried to find where yet but it is hopefully in that small bay as it did not flow over the rib section. Strange I had not thought leaks to be much of a possibility in a boat! Wishful thinking again. Anyway it has put work back a bit. You will notice that the bath water was ‘used’ condition. I was not allowed to waste water due to the shortage so had to use the bath with Radox and herbal Oils in it. I trust it does not affect the paintwork…………… Any opinions on Leak Checking? I did check how it ‘sat’, and the waterline at its current weight. There is something in those images that RN Munich will pick up on! Have received some of the parts………….just like Christmas for me. ( I was a spoilt only child). Two issues strike me. a. It may be of interest if I give sources of the parts b. I think I have a problem with ‘scale’………….. Currently the purchases fall into two groups, electrical and deck fittings. The electrics are not posing a problem yet, but the size of deck fittings certainly is! Taking the larger ‘electricals’ first, I have gone for pre built units. Someone with more ability could build the units themselves. Kits are available. Also far fewer units could be used to start with and added later if needed. As a result of my previous, though small, experience with the Richardson Tug I used Action Electronics and Component Shop in Bangor, Wales for almost all of the electrical bits. They are helpful and efficient with good quality products. I am still using Mtroniks DigiSound for the sound unit, but Action Electronics now makes one as well. I have used a new source for the transducers/exciters. I have previously used Dayton Audio, sourced through SoundandVision Netherlands and costing around £35.00 for a pair of TT25’s plus mail. This time I used Mr RC for similar item, made by them for about £53.00 the pair mail free. They too came from the Netherlands! Not tried yet, but have noted that the Dayton Audio ones had a foam ring on the face which was self adhesive and easy to place. Mr RC require Gluing in place. Going to look for the leak. Next post should be on the electronics which I hope will have arrived by then. BTW, The 46 Firefloat Mk2 blogg by ‘Elsrickle and Fire Boat (Crash Tender) on our site are great sources of information. NPJ.

LED Tug Mast Navigation Lights by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 10 days ago
Hi, Put the original radio board, smoker and light wiring back in. Take out your new RX and ESCs and use them for something else. Then fit a P94 dual ESC and Rudder Mixer from Action Electronics, sold by Component shop. You will get the same effect when used in Mode 3 👍😁 You will only need the 10A version for the Richardson. https://www.componentshop.co.uk/p94l-dual-esc-and-mixer-2-x-... Only difference with the 20A version is chunks of ally on the power transistors as heat sinks! Easy enough to 'self fit' 😉 Have fun, cheers, Doug😎

Seat Trials and mods. by robbob Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 11 days ago
Hi Michael. I know what you mean about distractions, I'm building an Amati 'ship in a bottle' model of the American warship 'Hannah' for my 5 year old granddaughter, also called Hannah. It's a real challenge on the eyes and fingers...seemed like a good idea at the time...🤓 If you want to see the Crash Tender close-up and have a chat I'll be showing it at the St. Albans model club exhibition in September, details are on the 'events' page. Rob.

Seat Trials and mods. by robbob Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 11 days ago
It’s been a while since the boat had it’s maiden voyage on the lake at St. Albans and I’m pleased to report that it looks really good in the water and goes like stink if you open up the throttle. Sadly I still don’t have any decent video of the boat yet as I can’t film and drive the thing at the same time, but I do have some static wide shots from my GoPro. When I do the video I’ll ask a cameraman mate to do the honours, maybe I’ll put the GoPro on the bow and then the stern to get some low action shots…the storyboard is already building in my head!! These early runs were great as they showed up some minor problems that needed attending to. I found that it needed ballasting slightly as it was not sitting on the waterline evenly from side to side so I flattened out some old lead water pipe and cut it into small sections so that I could add ballast incrementally. I did this in the ‘domestic test tank’ and once I was happy the lead pieces were fixed in place inside the hull with some super strong double sided tape. The ESC needed a little programming adjustment because I had forgotten to set the low battery level point to ‘off’ as I am using NiMh batteries and not LiPo’s , that was the cause of the short initial run time on the first outing…..DOH !! The batteries are now held in place by Velcro straps on some bearers that I added, otherwise a battery change involved cutting cable ties and replacing them at the lakeside…not very practical. The volt/amp/watt meter is also now on a proper bracket so that the display is more readable. I have also changed the charging connection from the nasty Tamiya connector to a nice little panel mount XT 60 connector that HobbyKing sell, it comes with a handy blanking plug that I have drilled for a retaining cord. I have also finally got around to upgrading the firmware on my Turnigy i6 radio to the 10 channel version so that I can assign the lighting to the switches properly and have the rotation of the searchlight on one of the two rotary knobs. I can use the old 6 channel RX in the new boat….blog coming soon.

Twin screw by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 11 days ago
Hi George, Good setup for a tug, mighty meaty👍 With or without gearing? I had one in my Sea Scout but the performance was 'sedate'🤔 Pic shows the old and the new ! For a tug they should be ideal though, lots of pull😊 How big / heavy is your tug? I also have the P94 dual ESC from action. Was going to put it in my Southampton tug but now think it would be more useful in my 53" destroyer because of the rudder mixer! Hope some of the tips solve your snag, fingers crossed😉 Cheers Doug 😎

Twin screw by georgeo5664 Lieutenant   Posted: 11 days ago
Thanks Doug for your response I will try everything you mentioned I have decaperm motors and dual esc from action electronics. Cheers George

LED Tug Mast Navigation Lights by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 16 days ago
Hi I also have a collection of 1:350 kits; HMS Ark Royal (carrier), HMS Hood, USS Enterprise The Big 'E', Bismarck and Titanic. Reckon I'll probably have to use the tiny chip LEDs for those.😲🤓 Can't wait to see photos / vids of 'Curiosity' in action👍

RE ads90's Vosper Firefloat by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 23 days ago
Your answer even quicker 😲 OK, if you don't want to practice twin motor control using two sticks, like tank driver, then I suggest the Action Electronics mixer board (as discussed during your aborted tug conversion🤔). You'll probably need the 20A version with those motors. Cheers, Doug 😎

LED Tug Mast Navigation Lights by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 25 days ago
Mornin' Pete, Mon plaisir 😉 Yeah, those surface-mounted-devices are a bit fiddly. First thing is to clamp the board somehow so it can't slip. Second: PLENTY OF LIGHT!! Third: a small low power soldering iron, about 20W with a 1mm flat bit (chisel type). Temperature controlled if possible, set to about 200 - 250°C. Fourth: a solder sucker is very useful to suck the solder off the joints, and probably the little resistor as well 😉 Fifth: a pair of flat ended tweezers. The cross-over self-gripping type are very good for this task, also to put the wire link on afterwards. Finally: a large magnifying glass with stand, some have an area of extra strong magnification. Make sure it is very clean and the lighting does not cause shadows, reflections or refractions. Alternative: heat the resistor with a standard 25W iron until the joints melt and flick it off with a scalpel! 😲 Just make sure no solder lands anywhere else on the board and shorts something out!! Good luck👍 Cheers, Doug 😎 PS: my only concern with the mod is the current capacity of the switching chip / SMD transistors on the cct board. I hope they can cope with the increased current 😉 That's why I tried to optimise the resistors and layout to keep the total current on each output as low as possible while still turning the LEDs on! If something goes 'PoP' Don't call me - I'll call you! 😁

Clyde Puffer by figtree7nts Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 28 days ago
Nice idea, water pump filling the boiler. Can't wait to see it in action!