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Model Boats Website Team
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I can,t help but I say that my thoughts are with the relatives and friends of the people young and old who are affected by last nights attack in Manchester, and the re-action of the people of Manchester make me proud to be British
Recently constructed ballasted and tested radio controlled model boat with working searchlight, navigation lights and Ship's Bell. Needs finishing by repainting, weathering to suit and a few minor additions (e.g. Anchor - supplied). Includes: Graupner HOTT may-10 transmitter and receiver JP ENERG-PRO NiMH flat 7.5v battery NiMH Battery Charger 230 457RE5401 Electric Motor ESC Viper Marine 15 Action Electronics P43 relay switches Mylar 5m round speaker for bell Spare ballast £150:00 Ono Collection only, please, due to weight of ballast. Based in Weston-super-Mare, Somerset. Selling to fund purchase of another - fun is in the making!
Hi Joe Did some more research and found a video on the Deluxe Site https://www.deluxematerials.co.uk/en/scale-plastics/15-pin-flow-applicator-5060243900456.html This really is a very fine nozzle dispenser and uses capillary action to deliver just the right amount of solvent to produce an invisible joint. They also recommend using for superglue accelerator by applying after the joint is closed to assist the setting process. Much neater way than brush or spray and will not result in marks on the surrounding area. For anyone building fine scale models a really good aid. Cheers Dave
The esc stuff is all working now. So i have just hooked up a LM2577 Voltage Booster input 3.5 - 30V, output up to 30V adjustable The idea is to have 24 volts battery input and the output stays at 12 volts. Having just said that it has come from action electronics and does not work .....Again. So I will have to stick with 12 volts .... so far as electronize esc,s go there heavy duty and also used so I have been told on the robots used in robot wars..
Hi Doug Know it well and used to build my own from a published circuit using now discontinued chip. Misleading for a dual set up possibly. If there is no switch provided the two switch wires can confuse some, like my friend. His wouldn't work with the BEC disconnected. It was a dual set up connected to an Action mixer. Has to use a separate rx battery to set up the rx before the ESC. It's 2.4 and takes longer than the ESC so doesn't provide the correct mid point for the ESC to find. By switching rx on first all is OK. Both ESCs have the red lead disconnected so are dead as are the motors until the switch is thrown. There is built in suppression in the BEC circuit which is not enabled in one ESC with your set up. On switch on the motor runs for half a second and I assume takes a big chunk of current. Using the switch gives better control and allows for each motor to switch on one at a time. If one set of wires are shorted and both ESCs wired thro a Y lead both motors will arm at the same time and might produce some unpredictable results. I agree its good to see Sonar is up and running and happy. Dave
Hallo Clifford, attached are some photos that might help. see also this You Tube link for a video of a Solent model in action. Neat 👍 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-6MiaXczDVY Goodnight from Munich (nearly midnight here!) Doug
There is a white metal ‘ring’ supplied in the kit for the Kent Clearview screen but it is too large and doesn’t look particularly ‘scale’. So after some research on the web and some help from other forum members I found enough information to make one from scratch. The outer ring was made from a narrow section of pvc pipe that I had to hand and this was cut to length in a mitre block and then sanded down to the right thickness on some abrasive paper and then sprayed matt black. I didn’t use the perspex screen supplied in the kit as the hole was too large but the small circular cut-out piece was the right diameter to fit into the ring that I made, the new screen was cut from a new piece of perspex sheet and a hole drilled through the centre to locate the rotating part of the screen. The parts were assembled onto the new screen using canopy glue applied very sparingly with a dressmaking pin. The motor drive assembly on the inside of the screen and the black triangular part that sits on the outside of the screen were made from some black plasticard and these parts were also fixed in place with canopy glue. I used a brass panel pin with the head filed down and painted black for the central bearing of the screen but when I applied a very small amount of canopy glue to fix it capillary action unexpectedly drew the glue between the two ‘panes’ of perspex 😡 Not what I wanted to happen but I decided to leave it to dry to it’s clear state and then assess the situation. Fortunately the glue is not too conspicuous to be much of a concern but it is nevertheless an unwanted blemish that I will have to accept 😭 The finished piece was then glued into the wheelhouse with a few dots of canopy glue and looks quite good as long as you don’t look too closely 😎
Hi Wayne Had a bit of a problem with fibreglass V plaster reaction so just altering the mould slightly and new hull being laid now Should be OK now and I am just about to commence the top/ deck mould but will do the mould in silicone and back it with plaster so I don't get the reaction I experienced first time round I have done a fair amount of sculpture before and always used silicone so I should have know better lol Will keep you posted and thanks for your interest
I am reminded of the response by my boss when the client asked for his modelled map of Cardiff to light up the bus routes...."I make models, sir, not bloody table lamps". He utterly refused to make anything noisy or lit up. The noise makers I've heard are rubbish, the smoke generators whispy little things and lights, well who runs at night. As for re-enacters of any type, at any time....saddos in extremis. To re-enact the horrors of war is, I believe, a bloody insult to those poor sods who were actually there. My Dad said he had, on the whole, a "good" War, but he didn't want models of rocket firing Hurricanes hanging around when he came home. "I hope you never have to watch a man die in his seat after he limped a kite back home safely", was one thing he did say. Maybe that stayed with me, but I have never yet made a military model by choice, nor would I. I once made a small tank, the Alvis reconnaissance type, but I hated every minute I was at the army camp measuring it. Oddly it was one of my best models. If the guy wanted it to go, "Bang!", I'd have shoved it up his fat ex-artillery officer's derriere! BTW, your 3/32" drills just made the express hot air balloon from the village green, which will connect with the Stadt donkey in a few days time. I have all sorts of goodies arriving, I hope. Plank-on-Frame-Models, Vols 1&2, because my originals have gone missing thanks to moving house too often, brass wires, because the miserable old bag in the local toyshop where they carry odd ends of K&S Metal Centre annoyed me so I bought from the internet for a fraction of the price and a mini-drill stand so I might make a small 'ole go where I want it to. Oh and today, finally, that Eberhard Weber CD came from Germany, but was delivered in a Royal Mail envelope! Trouble is we're near the end of the postie's round so we're lucky to see owt till 12-30ish. And having left my lower back somewhere in the front garden I am off outside to glue the last planks in my model of "Vanity". Cheers, Martin
Well, Luke wasn't happy when I got the Dremel out.... I mean who designs a kids action figure that can't sit down, well, he does now after the Lancashire Dremel massacre! The plan is to use Luke for 1/4 scale proportions to make my own lightweight blue foam figure from that will fit properly into the cockpit. I've also cut the sponson profiles, after cutting them I found out they Uhu Pore is an absolutely terrible foam safe glue, basically it doesn't stick owt to owt!! I'm going to have to split every seam & redo it with Gorilla glue.. Cheers Wayne
I agree John, can heartily recommend the small Bosch eccentric sanders with a collection of shaped pads (and dust extraction!!!!!👍) for the larger stuff, hulls etc, and the mini modeller sanders from Dremel and co for the fiddly stuff. 😎