Thanks, I used to make top end model furniture for the Home Miniaturists. It's my way of finding a connection with my cabinet maker Granddad, who was a big model boat fan too, in fact he was a founder member of the Victoria Model Steamboat Club. She is 48x9x11 plus bowsprit. Height of rig is about 4 feet also. And yes the fitting on the keel is a piece of ally box section cut in half so it becomes U section, drilled through at equal spacing for the fin keel. Then the U section is screwed with brass screws and Marineflex sealer/adhesive to the keel, which is all solid hardwood. I did my sums and gave up, so once she was waterproof I put her in my son's fish pond and kept piling stuff in until she floated on her marks. Rigging won't be that heavy, but I made an allowance for it. Once it was floating right it turned out to need 14 1/2lbs. of ballast. BUT, that's inside. On the end of a 15" inch(ish) fin it will be less. I have 2 half bulbs cast by my other son in his back garden from my patterns. They will be bolted to the fin and faired in. Cheers, Martin
Now that the internal detail of the cabin has been finalised and fixing points made for each of the panels and floor pieces (all parts of the cabin detail are to be removable) I can now finally fit the cabin roof skins. Since the leading edge has an overhang which because of the lifting design hasn’t the same framework support I have decided to reinforce the joint with stainless steel pins.to ensure a perfect fit, I made a tiny jig out of brass angle that ensured all the holes in each piece lined up. I then placed pieces of silicon sheet on the parts I really didn’t want the skins to stick to the cabin framework. Fist all the pieces were position and pinned to ensure a good fit, they were then removed adhesive applied and the skins finally placed and pinned, most of the pins will be removed when it’s dry. The centre panel has an opening for the hatch so this was put in prior to fixing. After a day’s drying it’s time to see if the whole thing works as envisaged, thankfully it does. The roof will now have to be dismantled so further work can be carried out it, will also get a covering of glass matting to add overall strength.
Whilst waiting for the ice to melt, decided to make up the deck and transom flaps. The deck was made from styrene sheet, again for lightness. Made the deck beams out of square styrene sections to avoid traditional, heavy, full width bulkheads. Hoped the stiff MTBH hull would resist twisting without bulkheads. First impressions are that this is the case and when the deck is finally bonded to the hull, should be even better.. The transom flap was made from thin aluminium plate and added simulated stiffener ribs in styrene. Understand that about a 2 degree flap down inclination works best on this model. My original plan was to operate the flap using a servo with another radio channel, however once the best plane is achieved it is unlikely the flaps will need further adjustment. Unlike the real vessel, the operating weight will remain fairly constant. So, abandoned the servo idea to use adjustable bottle-screws instead. The flap angle can still be adjusted, but not in motion. These screws are much simpler, lighter and cheaper than a servo. One challenge was to make the very small hinges required for an adjustable flap. After much thinking and investigation, decided the simplest and neatest way would be to use thin, self adhesive aluminium tape, as used on forced air heating ducts. Would stick the self adhesive surface to the underside of the flap and then onto the inside face of another thin aluminium sheet, which could then be fitted to the transom using double sided tape and small screws. This seems to work so far, it also avoids drilling through holes into the transom .
The Mossie I understand but the all metal Spitty ? Gorilla Glue and a good exterior PVA I've got. It's really strong and weather proof .I use it for garden furniture making and repairs. Lost the label sorry so don't know the name.👍🤔 Any similar glue will be as good as long as it's an outdoor type. Used diluted it penetrates well and thicker has a good grab if spread thinly. I also use UHU hart,plain balsa cement,contact adhesive,a plastic glue and Plastic Magic which will glue any plastic I've tried it on, plus Cyano and lots of other odds and sods. They all have their uses if used correctly. Gorilla is good for gluing mixed materials. Their wood (PVA?👍) glue is excellent too.
Not received yet Steve, but had an email telling me it's on it's way along with tracking details. Looking forward to getting it though, yours looks brilliant, is the adhesive very sticky, or can you position it before making permanent ? Peter
I wanted to try and recreate the detail as per the available photos and drawings that I had so the first thing was to try and make the cabin have walls and a door, so previously I had cut away bulkhead B2 and extended CF2 to the bottom skin and put the door opening in. Now for the actual piece of cabin floor, the entry is slightly strange as there appears to be an inset step from the from the sick bay up into the cockpit but then it is relatively straight forward, it was made from 2mm ply. Planking was something I have never done so a lot of research was done prior to starting. I decided to use a lime wood plank with a black 0.3 black card divider (caulk) all glued with aliphatic adhesive. I found the process quite enjoyable and the results on the test piece for a first attempt were quite pleasing. I then wanted to reproduce the nailing of the planks so I devised a small tool to ensure a consistent pattern Its simply a piece of obeche with four holes, 4 brass pins and a black divider line, this is simply placed on the join line and then tapped with a light hammer and filled with the tip of a black pen. The first attempt looks slightly misaligned but proved the system worked, I have made a more accurate one for the real floor. After the planks were set it was sanded flat which unfortunately leaves the wood grain blackened by the black card dust, however using a plastic eraser it’s easily removed ready for sealing. I thought that the door opening needed some sort of finishing/dressing so I decided to manufacture a mahogany door frame and handrail around the cabin.
Glue by glyn44 Chief Petty Officer Posted: 3 months ago
Hi All, Any one suggest a glue that can be used for tacking assemblies together so I can test fit them, see how they look etc. And then remove and disassemble allowing adjustments to be made, allowing the glue to be easily removed when required and the permanent adhesive to be applied.Masking tape not always suitable. Thanks.
Always good to hear of different makes of adhesive that others use. In a warm room most of these types of wood glue set very quickly to a hold state, developing full strength over 12 hours. A far cry from the days of Cascamite! which I recall seemed to take 24hrs, a lifetime when you are 5 years old.
Hi Doug I agree the commercial stuff is not nice. I was suggesting the hobby plastic weld solvents freely available and used by fine scale modellers for joining plastic kits etc. It is sold under a variety of names, the SHG catalogue lists: PLAS1 Plasweld – Liquid Polystyrene solvent adhesive Plasweld special solvent weld will bond Styrene, ABS, Butyrate, Acrylic and other types of plastic materials. Easy to apply using a brush. Bonds in seconds. The Ultimate Plastic Building Tool , 50ml bottle 2.00 POLY3L Precision Poly cement 28ml with needle applicator 3.25 POLY4 Polystyrene Cement 12ml tube 2.00 POLY4L Mek Poly Liquid Polystyrene Cement 30ml Bottle 2.75 PLAS7 Plastic filler. Special filler for plastic modelling 2.50. There are many other suppliers in the UK and overseas. Like most glues it is recommended that you work in a well ventilated area and avoid breathing the vapours as far as possible. I do hope you weren't exposed to the substance for too long!
Spitfire With plasticard it helps to heat in warm water when forming curves. Make a wooden (Balsa) template heat the plasticard, bend to shape and hold in place until cool. I recommend you use MEK plastic adhesive with plasticard, the merest touch will allow capillary action to carry the liquid between the joints, I use a fine (old) paint brush. The glue is quick drying and actually welds the joint. Like superglue a little is best, too much and you risk melting the whole job.
I have to agree with Peter's comments. I would also suggest that you look at the coupling and fitment of your prop shaft. It could be that the whole unit is seizing together. You also need to check it is true and free running. You need a prop and locknut followed by a thrust washer then at the inboard end a thrust washer locknut and coupling. There should be a gap between the thrust washer and bearing of a few thou', we used to use a Rizla paper, Make sure all joint are tight and that the shaft turns freely and smoothly. The motor need to be securely mounted to a good solid base and 100% aligned with the coupling and prop shaft. Personal experience tells me you don't get a second chance with brushless, you have been fortunate if it is only the prop tube has suffered. Is your hull wood, plastic, fibreglass? Whilst Araldite is a fine adhesive you may need to use Stabliz Express or UHU Acrylit Plus which provide an exceptionally strong joint. E-bay have sellers of UHU in the UK. Good luck and please keep us posted
My friend bought a damaged Marblehead sailboat. He is not sailing it in competition, only as a fun R/C sailboat. He wants me to put a thin birch ply deck on it and make the repairs needed on the rudder post area. Does anyone recognize the material used for the deck? See the golden brown coloured photos. The boat originally had an iron shrink material used on aircraft models. After I know the material, then I can determine the adhesive to use for attaching the birch ply deck. Thanks!