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Totally agree with all points mentioned👍, another way is to make a note of the things you need, now and in the future i.e. glue, fittings,paint etc, and then visit the model boat shows advertised around the UK, some are close, others not, for me I like Doncaster show, Haydock and Blackpool, going to shows allows you to choose from various traders and cherry pick the bits you want, it works for me along with the internet for items wanted NOW! cheers Peter😊
Hi Simon, Glad to help😊 I'm just one of many 'Bin there done that' guys on this site. I have no complaints about the Turnigy motors or ESCs. Not too expensive and seem to work 'as advertised' 👍 When you read the blog you will realise that I did not build the kit (and that I have a nutty sense of humour😁). My Dad built it in the early sixties. I 'simply😲' restored it and upgraded it. Attached pics show the Before and After 😊 The original motor was a Taycol Target field coil motor. I decided to convert that to work with a modern reversible ESC and fit it to an ancient Billing Boats fish cutter that I am slowly restoring and converting from static to working model. Last pic shows the initial 'trial fit' of the motor. The motor restoration / conversion is also described in the Sea Scout blog, as are the materials I used for the restoration. Looking forward to your clips, hope the weather holds up. Whatever you do, however you do it, have fun doing it😁 As my German friends like to say; 'I wish you always a hand's breadth of water under your keel' 😉 Cheers, Doug 😎
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/272480053426 They sell it in a number of sizes. Worked well but despite my calculations and buying extra I did not have quite enough. Beginning to wonder if the volume figure they advertise is a little short. I've thrown the pots away now so can't measure it. Held up well casting 6.5Kg of lead. I even did it twice because my first pore was a little slow so the finish keel was not pretty so I cut it up and did it again. Steve
I had a ride on it 2 years ago, 102 was the number on the boat. I think it might have been an HSL. Sorry for the confusion but it was advertised on TV as a fire boat rescue launch. I won the ride with a local radio station phone in quiz while on holiday in Somerset. Cheers Colin.
Trying to rig the main tops'l and mizzen tops'l braces, I found the winch servos seemed to rotate more than the 3.5 times I thought they did. Oddly, one rotated 4.5 times and the other 4.25 times. I plugged in other winch servos and got the same results, but my DX6 transmitter didn't have a servo-travel setting that I could find in the manual. So I made new winch drums - again - based on what the servos were doing. The fore tops'l brace was fine, but the main seemed to pull one side more than the other side. I mentioned this oddity on RCGroups and someone suggested the DX6 did have a servo travel setting, and I was sure I had looked for it years ago. My manual isn't where is usually is, so I found a PDF on line. Lo and behold, there's a Servo-Travel setting spelled out on page 42! So I set about adjusting my TX settings to the new drums and there you go, working as advertised! In the meantime I installed eyes in the mizzen for brace blocks to mount to, and made a brass wire ring for the main tops'l brace to tie to as noted on the original ship a few posts back in this thread. I apparently slopped some epoxy on the inside of one of the mizzen tops'l brace thru-deck fairleads and blocked it up. I need to pull it like a bad tooth, and replace it, so the mizzen braces are hooked up yet. Here's some exciting video of the separate bracing for the fore and main tops'ls. http://todd.mainecav.org/model/constellation/videos/con20180...
Wow! Hobby Engine’s tugs are nearly identical to the WYEFORCE. In fact, as you mentioned in one of your prior posts, the Southampton’s color scheme is very similar to the WYEFORCE as well. I measured the OAL of my Richardson & it comes up a little bit short of the “advertised” length of 22”. It actually measures 21-3/8” or 1.781’ [0.543m]. Using the inverse of 1:36 yields the OAL of the full-size boat: 1.781’ x 36 = 64.12’ [19.54m], which is 1.12’ [0.34m] longer than the 19.2m OAL stated for the WYEFORCE on marinetraffic.com. The length difference isn’t surprising because the “as-built” dimensions of fabricated steel ships, boats, barges, etc. can vary quite a bit from the original engineering design. The length stated for the WYEFORCE could be an estimate or events like ECOs (engineering change orders), field alterations & damage repairs could have affected the full-size tug’s OAL. In my 35 years as a mechanical/industrial designer I frequently dealt with machinery that varied from planned dimensions. I’m not a rivet counter & I doubt that most R/C boaters are either. It’s all about having fun, right? If the model looks right, it is right. Enough said.
Sorry the advertised Flash Gordon reel has gone 'walkies' so you'll have to make do with this boring description of how to occupy a day or three and stink out the house!😁 After the eventual success with the cabin roof I continued with the main deck using essentially the same process. First I had to extend the planking (engraving) from cabin leading edge back to the transom. Dad had only done the foredeck. Pic 1 shows starting point. AKA Square One! Pic 2 after initial staining, pseudo planking and sealing. Plank engraving was done with a fine hardened steel scriber / centre punch and a steel rule clamped at 7mm centres. Rule was aligned so that the wood grain pushed the scriber against it. Don't ask how I realised that that was the way to do it (minor Arrrgh!)😡 Anyway, worked out in the end. I had started with cherry wood stain but it came out too bright red so from Krick I obtained some Jotica mahogany stain (also some Oak stain for the decks of my Prince of Wales and Bismarck - but that's another pair of Sagas to be.) Using basically the same process as for the cabin roof: two sealing coats, two matt varnish primer coats, two gloss varnish coats, two protective lacquer coats, polishing with cutting polish and top gloss polish, and lots of patience and elbow grease (this time an Italian Lugana😉) pics 3 to 5 show the result. I'm 'appy with that 😊 Note: to remove build up of sanding residue from the 'planking caulking' I had to resort to an old toothbrush or nail-brush from time to time. The sponge couldn't hack it. The aft deck 'hatch' is still the temporary bodge-up I made 25 years ago to quickly get the boat going for my daughter. Think the ply (ca 4mm) came from the back of an old bureaux! Haven't decided yet whether to make the new one from the same mahogany as the roof or thin ply and stain like the main deck. Suggestions welcome please. After the deck time to turn my attention to the cabin walls, looking pretty shabby and full of over-spray - pic 6 😲 Step 0: masking off, pics 7 & 8 'All Dressed Up and Nowhere To Go'🤔 Step 1: mucho sanding starting with 180 grit and working through to 600 ensuring removal of all traces of blue as I wanted the final finish to be Arctic White (not Ice Blue!) Step 2: two sealing coats, flattening with 600 grit. Step 3: spraying with Revell white primer, not impressed, gave a rough dusty finish🤔 Step 4: sand off Revell muck, flat back with 1000 and 1500 grit sponges, respray with two coats of pro white primer, flattening with 1500 and 2000+ soap respectively. Much better 😊 like the proverbial baby's ...! Step 5: two coats of gloss white, same make as the primer!!!, flattening with 3000 grit sponge, wet + a drop of liquid soap. Step 6: two coats of protective lacquer as with the varnish. Flattening with 3000 and soap between coats only. Interesting effect with this lacquer and the paint (as opposed to the varnish); it seemed to 'melt and fuse' with the paint surface and smooth it out.😊 Just had to be careful not to apply too much at once in case it all ran down and took the paint with it! Step 7: finishing with cutting polish and anti-hologram polish. Results: pics 9 - 11. Final effect makes it look and feel like plastic or fibreglass, almost forgot that there is wood underneath😁 Next in this theatre "Hi Ho Silver Awaaaayyyy!" (Sponsored by KiOra!) or 'I'm gonna finish this hull if it kills me!' (sorry Flash reels got lost in the post😡) Cheers Doug 😎
Thanks fellas I knew someone would have information on this. I am still trying to figure out how to run the sheets. This was never set up like the way shown in the attachments. Sometimes I think it would be far easier to set it up using Servo Arms as shown in the second attachment. Last photo is not clear to indicate sailing set-up as the system had broken parts. This photo was used in the for sale advertisement.
Almost finished me WSPS47 now and find that I have the fire monitor pump here STR at this time. This item is totally unused and still in the sealed packing it arrived in. I have checked the (surprising) cost of this pump online and I am asking nowhere the advertised price, in fact, if anyone would like to purchase it or has any swaps I'd be glad to hear from them 73 de Bill
I have just seen an Msonic advertised on Ebay. Its a tempo11 version and designed for model cars. It is an early Mtronik and possibly has a max voltage of 7.2 to 8.4 volts and probably 10 amps (my guess). As its maybe for a car the reverse may just be a brake. If you plug it into a 7.2 battery or less, connect a motor and plug the ESC into a rx you should be able to test. Check that the rx plug is wired neg (black) pos (red) signal (white) incase it was being used with a differently wired rx ie the red then black then white. If so you will need to swop over the red and black wires. The small button is used to set up the ESC once you get it going.
Hi Welcome to the site. I suggest you buy a copy of the Model Boats Magazine to see what might appeal. You can then contact one of the advertisers to get more details. If you need a ready built model you can usually find one on e-bay or in a local auction. There are pitfalls and if you can find a local friendly Model Shop or Club they will guide you in the right direction. Good hunting