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>> Home > Tags > advice

good advice
Twin Esc/Mixer by NPJ Captain   Posted: 14 hours ago
Your advice please.................... Would it be OK to position the Receiver Battery on top of the Esc/Mixer box? As you can see I have cut the holes as required for the Unit! All the best. NPJ

Predator (Aeromarine Laminates USA) by BOATSHED Commander   Posted: 3 days ago
Hi can you tell me how your Predator performs on the water with the brushless outboard please. What water surface is best with a tunnel hull like yours and brushless outboard. I have got a Graupner Rhode Island F1 Tunnel Hull with a similar outboard. I have not run her yet as unsure of what water conditions she would like plus too many other things have been going on during this summer. I am hoping to get to run her next spring. But would like some advice on this. I look forward to your help please.

46" Firefloat What Motor/Battery by moormedic Seaman   Posted: 4 days ago
Hiya Many thanks for taking the time to reply sir...very much appreciated. All useful stuff.....current battery weighs 2kg!! My props are three bladed 40mm dia contra rotating. Purchased with advice from "Prop-shop" Cheers 👍 J.J

46" Firefloat What Motor/Battery by moormedic Seaman   Posted: 5 days ago
Hello chaps. I'm very new to this but have just finished scratch building a 46" Vosper Firefloat in the old Aerokits fashion (ie all wood) to the point where I've primered it, fitted a radio and couple of motors (Graupner 600 chosen at random cos they looked adequate!) and a Lead Acid 6v 12Ahr battery. Tried it on the local canal today and two problems. 1: its underpowered...nearly gets on the plane with a fresh battery but not quite. 2: The battery only lasts about five minutes. I'm an old git and don't understand "Lipids" or the benefits of "Brushless Motors" etc and would appreciate any help or advice any of you experienced guys could offer me please on motor/battery choices to get the thing planing and running for more than five minutes. Many thanks in anticipation Cheers John

Palaform Griffon 600 - Police by Skydive130 Admiral   Posted: 7 days ago
I have just bought the Palaform Griffon 600 which arrived last week. I am considering 2 things: 1. Either copy all the depron parts onto 2mm light/medium balsa adding lightning holes to reduce the extra weight. This would make a far stronger model for not too much added weight. The instructions call for adding extra batteries to increase weight if using outdoors anyway. 2. second option would be to replace some parts with balsa, then glass cloth top deck depron, bottom of hull depron and either replace cabin sides/roof with a sandwich of 1mm balsa/1mm ply or glass cloth depron. In both options, the prop tunnel will be built as per kit. Any thoughts or advice would be appreciated.

Huntress - Rudder by AndyG009 Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 13 days ago
I have no problems, currently as I have not built the model. Just working on the plans. My concern was that one has to have effectively a hole in the hull for the tiller arm to enter. Just not sure how I am going to do it yet. Was looking for advice, if someone else had built this sort of setup.

Motor problem by RichardSReade Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 15 days ago
I have a brass tube and stainless shaft with no bearings fitted at the moment. I thought the advice was to fit a bigger motor and smaller prop, to keep the motor from running hot and to hopefully save the battery, you say an equivalent three blade prop, that is what is fitted (55mm 3 blade) so where does that come on the chart? as if it is still too big then I am no further forward

Motor problem by RichardSReade Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 15 days ago
I like Blunt, the guy a Howes model shop, who was into boats himself retired and only worked there a couple of mornings a week, also said to remove the complete shaft and replace it with a metric one much the same as yourself, it is just the thought of what damage I may do to the boat as I know I fixed it in really well, he also said to get a 4mm prop-shaft and to see if the shaft would fit into the existing tube, so I am going to take both your advice and at this time go for a 4mm but try the shaft first, however I do not think pulling it out with mole grips will work on this occasion. Watch this space😡 Thanks

Motor problem by RichardSReade Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 17 days ago
I looked at the Cornwall model site and saw that, what i have decided to do is to leave the two Ni cad batteries in situ and I have weighed the rear/mid section lead weight and it is just 56 grams heavier than the 12 volt 7 amp/h lead acid alarm battery so I will use the 12 volt battery and ditch the lead, the weight of the boat will be the same, I also trimmed the lead at the front end so the bow will come up a fraction more. I have taken the prop of and measured it to be a 55mm, so I am going to fit the water intake, hopefully with some advice from the forum "techys"as to the position, in the photos this is where I can fit it so it is out of the way of the rudder and prop.what do you reckon, I can then get a suitable motor with a water jacket which will be happy to run on 12 volt with enough power not to get hot turning a 45 to 50 mm two blade "x" prop, as suggested by pmdevlin, I may get the Lloydsman up and running as all that needs is dusting of and batteries charging up, (two 12 volt 7amp/h in parallel) and the receiver from the commander fitted although I have not floated it I bought it as a complete working model in 2015, so it is about time it came out of dry dock, also I can look to repairing the rigging and finishing the Odessy Yacht I bought at the same time as the Llyodsman also in dry dock.

Motor problem by pmdevlin Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 17 days ago
for the purpose of testing, don't go out and buy expensive props, just buy cheap plastic two blade ones, I always use "x" blade, they are a coarser pitch, "s" blade are less pitch. Get a few to test, 35mm, 40mm, 50mm. Fit, short run, see how hot things are. Whilst you don't want to go fast, don't forget this is a big heavy old girl, its better to be overpowered than under powered. If it was me, I would get a graupner 700, watercool with a cooling coil, probably settle with 45 to 50mm two blade "x" prop, run on 12v, this will give some speed and durability. Don't assume that just because the model shop suggested it, its the holy grail, many many times we have seen evidence of very poor advice given by so called experts😡

new brighton model boat lake by onetenor Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 17 days ago
Doug .Re which one (other tenor/s ) they were few and far between and came and went . I was always welcomed to any opera company or choir I went to. Hence ( THE ) ONE TENOR The Marine lake is like Rhyl's. Useable as long as no other users. Wadeable but watch out for debris and broken glass etc. Don't go in barefoot. In fact that is good advice on any water. People seem to delight in throwing rubbish into any stretch of water. Idiots.👍

Motor problem by RichardSReade Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 17 days ago
reading my previous post I got it wrong the heavier weight is noe in the compartment behind the motor with the lighter one forward of the motor compartment, The prop is a three bladed brass one so difficult to measure the diameter when on the boat, but each blade from the center is just 30mm, the power box is an Aquapower digital speed controller model AQP128. The prop shaft spins freely Will be retiring to bed now so will check any replies tomorrow, thank you all for the help and advice

Motor problem by RichardSReade Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 18 days ago
Hi All looking for some advice, A bit of background first, in the early sixties my late father and myself started to build a Sea Commander, when Mother and father separated, he took the model with him, it ended up in the loft of his new residence and stayed there untouched until he asked me to take it just before he passed away in 2000, it then sat in my workshop until I decided to finish it in 2015 after a hip operation, the first time I floated it was last weekend at Coate water in Swindon, I then spent a few hours in the bathroom when the wife was out to get it sorted with lead weights and a smaller battery than the big 12 volt alarm battery I had fitted, so with the 7.2 volt battery fitted I went back to Coate water and tried it out, I removed the weight from the stern and swapped the mid and Bow weights around and it sat just right and motored lovely with a nice Bow wave and a hollow wave at the stern with good rudder response. However after about 10 minutes the motor stopped, I still had rudder control and as it happened the boat was aiming for the jetty so had no problem recovering the boat, the motor however was smoking hot and burnt out. what is the best type of motor to use on one of these boats, photos of the boat and motor fitted and a photo of a spare working motor, thanks in advance. Sorry for writing a book😊

Fishingboat ARTUR by hecrowell Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 22 days ago
Thanks again Zdenek, and by all means, I would be very pleased to accept any information that you are able to. Being born and raised in a fishing community on the East Coast of Canada, the seawater is in my blood and there is just something about the clean lines of ARTUR that appeals to me. This looks like a complicated project for me, and one which I must be prepared to work slowly and carefully on and hope that I am not undertaking a project that is too ambituous for me. I really want to do a good job. I have not noticed any scale on the drawings so that I can tell my printer company how large to make them. Do you have any advice for me on having the drawings printed? Thanks

Impatient but hit away with it! by Skydive130 Admiral   Posted: 28 days ago
Good advice mark! I’ve had laquer reactions before and the mess it makes is horrendous! I shall let it harden until tomorrow night before doing anything else to it. In the meantime I can get on with making 30 brass stanchions!