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>> Home > Tags > advice

good advice
advise required by teejay Lieutenant   Posted: 4 hours ago
Hi all sorry about the spanner I don't intent the same set for the other boat but I do want to progress later and my son as asked for the schenllboot after I get it finished so I will be buying another set anyway . Sorry for the spanner hope it did not hurt to much, still interested in all that you have to say , good work on the light flasher unit I have taken the url and it will be included in the D boat ,thanks to all for the advice all is much help. I don't mind about any hijacking (all is learning)

advise required by teejay Lieutenant   Posted: 1 day ago
Hi all and thanks to Ron and Doug I have not forgotten about the TGY-i6 set and have looked at the suggestions from Ron. I looked at a lot of stuff it can be a bit of mine field, I have fond this at Cornwall models Servo, Batteries, Charger & 15A ESC This pack provides the radio control unit and all items necessary to complete an RC boat kit. Certain models may need a motor Contents: 2-Channel transmitter Reflex Pro 3.1 2.4GHZ 5-Channel receiver, CS-3 steering servo (3kg/cm force) Transmitter batteries, 7.2v/2100mAh drive battery 15Amp Marine Electronic Speed Controller Plug charger Multi-lingual instructions Part No: CMBRCP15 I think this may be the way for me to go as it seem to have all the things I need to learn about in the one package, I know I may have to up grade some parts but for the first timer I think it would do your opinions would be much appreciated

Wherry hull in GRP by kmbcsecretary Admiral   Posted: 2 days ago
I didn't have any look finding one Martin was going to build one myself at 1/12 . I managed to find some interesting reading on these boats and I'm waiting for a book to arrive from the Norfolk wherry museum. I purchased copy's of model boats mags January 1985 which has the build article of the wherry and October 1985 which has a article on upgrades and advice on the original build. I found the book "wherries and waterways" by Robert malster a interesting read. Ron

Motor size advice by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 7 days ago
No sweat😉 Hope it all works out. BTW: Canabus got me started on brushless last year. He answered my plea for help upgrading my old Sea Scout. Everything he recommended is now fitted and works a treat, with power in reserve. 😊 All the best, Doug 😎

Rubbing stakes by mturpin013 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 7 days ago
Before I do the final coats of epoxy the rubbing stakes need to be fitted but then Robbob pointed out the vulnerability of the bow particularly when transporting through doorways. I decided to take that advice and make a brass bow bumper, this will not be visible when finished but will stop any structural damage if the bow is hit, it was screwed and epoxied in position. The design also incorporates a location for the rubbing strakes holding them in position when fitting. Thanks Robbob

Motor size advice by Morkullen Seaman   Posted: 7 days ago
Sorry Doug. Nice post. Many thanks. Morkullen

Motor size advice by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 8 days ago
Er, that was me 😉. Have fun and don't blow anything up! 😲 Cheers Doug 😎

Motor size advice by Morkullen Seaman   Posted: 8 days ago
Thanks again, Canabus. Well explained. Hopefully now I can find something that fits the bill. Best wishes Morkullen

Motor size advice by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 8 days ago
Hi Maorkullen, kv means rpm per volt applied. Thus the 1100kv motor does 1100rpm / Volt OFF LOAD! 3639: These 4 digit numbers generally mean diameter and length; i.e. 36mm diameter, 39mm length. xS means the number of cells, of nominal voltage 3.7V for LiPos. Thus 3S is a 3 cell battery of nominal 11.1V. 25C is a theoretical measure of maximum short term current the battery can deliver in terms of a multiple of it's nominal capacity in Amp hours. Thus in this case 5.8 x 25A = 137.5A. But not for long!! and afterwards the battery would most likely be wrecked and useless.🤔 So it's really only a marketing gimmick not to be taken very seriously. Hope this unravels some of the mystery, cheers Doug 😎

Motor size advice by Morkullen Seaman   Posted: 8 days ago
Hello Canabus. Just looked at the motor and battery info you supplied and neither of the specs are available or have been superceded. The problem for me is that I do not understand what all the figures mean. As an old electrical engineer, 1100kv means to me that it is 1100 kilo volts!! I dont think so! Other than being a part number, does 3639 mean anything? Similarly 3S? Lipo 5800mah OK, but 25C? Is there a site anywhere which will explain these number to me? Best regards, Maorkullen

Motor size advice by Morkullen Seaman   Posted: 8 days ago
Thank you Canabus. I will check it all out. Many thanks again. Morkullen

Motor size advice by canabus Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 8 days ago
Hi Morkullen I suggest a Hobbyking 3639-1100kv 35mm brushless motor with a 60 Amp ESC and a 2 blade 40mm prop. Battery a 3S Lipo 5800mah 25C will give you more than 1/2 hour. I had his setup in my 34" Sea commander with very good performance. Canabus

Motor size advice by Morkullen Seaman   Posted: 8 days ago
I am building the Thornicroft MTB MM337 (again) I last built one many years ago and put a small diesel engine in it at that time. However, I plan to go all electric R/C on this one and would appreciate advice as to what size, (Make /Model) type of motor could be used. Also which battery pack for the motor. Any and all suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Sea Queen prop shaft by AndyG009 Lieutenant   Posted: 11 days ago
Thanks for the advice M Turpin (don't know any more than that), I am with you on that, I worked out that I actually needed about 500 mm length. So will thread the one end (actually less thread than the one supplied) then fit - measure - measure then cut. Sidley70 - I think I would have been tempted to remove the old shaft (the outer tube) and fit a new one. I suppose it depends on how well the original is fitted. Having removed one many years ago from a boat. My method was to have a reasonable size piece of steel drill and tap to the size of the old prop shaft, fit to shaft - this holds the piece at the end of the shaft - the basically give it a bash with a hammer - now in my case it came loose and then by swapping round and bashing from the inside, I got the shaft free enough to clamp a mole wrench on and 'wiggle' it out. Not very scientific, but it worked for me - no guarantees though. Good Luck

Fibreglass the hull by mturpin013 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 13 days ago
That looks painful, I will take your advice and do the deck and superstructure reinforcement as well as the nose. I've already done the roof and its certainly strengthened it really well.