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November 2018: 9 people October 2018: 9 people September 2018: 13 people August 2018: 5 people July 2018: 8 people June 2018: 8 people May 2018: 7 people April 2018: 24 people March 2018: 13 people February 2018: 4 people
I would appreciate some input as to the type of battery. My inclination is to go for a lead-acid, as I would like the additional weight. I feel that most models look too light on the water. The motor is a mtroniks 660 with a Viper Marine 25A ESC. Any advice would be appreciated!
Hi everyone, just hoping someone still reads this blog. I am just about to start building Cariad and have decided to take advice from this blog, and fit a detachable keel. This is my second build and first fiberglass hull so being careful thinking it through. it makes sense to design in the detachable keel before fitting the deck but clearly I can only measure the ballast - weight and position - once the boat is nearly complete. So id welcome some idea of the position of the false keel so that I can fit a tube now, and build the keel itself later. Anyone able to advise?🤔
I am currently working on a few projects at a time. One boat, a Police Launch, has several working lights that I have aded as extras. I have quite a bit of available room so I have used 7/0.2 equipment wire for all of the LED`s. For my Pilot Boat, I have very little room to run the wires and so will have to reduce drastically. I cannot seem to find smaller wire which leads me to believe that I am looking in the wrong places. Please can I ask for advice as to which wire size I should be looking for and where to look for it. I like to colour code the wires also to make fault tracing easier, so multiple colours would be an added bonus. Thanks. Peter.😊
May be too late, but have you thought about real planking? This was my first attempt following advice on various youtube videos and studying pictures of the full sized boat. Planks supplied by Jotika. They have various sizes and woods and worked out to quantity when I gave them the deck measurements. I used cyano to glue to a plastic deck and sealed with a proprietory outdoor satin varnish. I found it very satisfying and was pleased with the end result. Ps. Please excuse the black dots of fly sht. on the deck in the first picture. Steve
[Score: 5/10] 36"/1000g Tarpon Single Propellor Direct Drive to a Graupner Speed 600 8.4 Volts Controlled Through Mtroniks TIO Marine 30 ESC - Comments: Scatch built in 1959 from MM 494 plan, laid up till 1985 and now, 2018 being given a new lease of life (I hope)!. Some details are void as I need advice on what prop and battery to select.
Thanks for the advice. I have changed to a smaller battery and moved it fwrd (it is R/C). I have also tried to see if there is any internal ballast but that's not easy without removing the deck. I think its time to drill the lead keel as suggested. I have found a local expert who says he will do the job! Will report on progress. Many thanks. John
Just a further update on my MEKO Frigate. Thanks to the patience and advice from Doug together with a local boff friend, JohnO' with advice on electronics, I have now ventured into the realm of YouTube for the first time and am able to provide the short video suggested by Reilly4 some while ago. This sequence is returning the heli back into the hangar. The "Out"sequence is the reverse. Both "Out" and "In"are sequential on one channel of the TX. I have been told that the address below must be pasted into your browser. Hope it works. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=04qHrO96lS0
Many thanks for your helpful reply. The line between the wooden hull and the lead part of the keel is very clear so knowing where to drill will not be a problem. Do you think a fostner drill bit in a hand drill (slow speed) will be best for drilling lead. Its something I've not done before so any advice would be much appreciated. I will put some more pictures up hopefully tomorrow.
Evening all, I have a voltage regulator I’d like to fit to my Southport tug (currently running on 7.2v Ni-MHs) in order to get it up to 12v. I’m after more speed/power and would particularly like the bow thruster running a bit faster than it does on 7.2v. So, the questions are, where to fit it in the wiring loom, and what will the effect be on the battery life? Advice please! Thank you in advance...
This is a old model I purchased to renovate after few months here is the completed build. Must give many thanks for all the advice and help given to me by the members of Model Boats, and thanks to all the other builds I gathered a lot of the information to the build. Tried to get a near original model but a few discrepancies as not all to scale. We’d more practice and experience this is my third build so am still learning.
I made this from a 54" long piece of Melamine shelving. shallow cut a centre ine down the middle 1/16" wide. The board was then marked into 2" squares using a laundry marker. The design concept was from a fuselage jig I had made by SLEC. The holes required for the brackets are M5 with captive ( T nuts) underneath pulled up into the bottom of the board. The red tape down the centre is masking tape ( the high quality stuff) this was to stop the boat glueing itself to the board. As the the keel has a skeg we needed to raise the keel to ensure parallelism I used an Enginerers Marking out block and two doorstops on this.The angles can slide and you then clamp the Bulwarks on I used thirty minute epoxy for this although I would like a longer working time epoxy. Bulwarks 3 and 4 with the motor base was also epoxied together. This was then located on the keey ( Dryfit along with the other bulkheads. A word of advice here use the cabin sides to ensure alignment. Check with a rule and squares before gluing anything.
Hi all for the second blog report on the schnellboot I am going to go over the rudder a propeller shaft assembly in more detail. The first stage was to make the rudders which were made of brass ,and having taken note of what has been said about the increase in size needed for the kit by other members I have increased the size of the rudders by 50% so that they have more effect and hopefully the boat will be more agile .I fitted 3mm treaded rod on to the rudder and in a 4mm flanged tube to reinforce the brass rod. The second stage was to make and fit 5mm flanged tube in the location for the rudders in the boat, these were made to be above the water line and will be sealed in place to reduce the possibility of leaks. These were fitted to a rudder platform inside the boat which was fitted to the kit moulding for the rubbing strip that runs the length on the boat and secured by making resin blocks which were fitted with computer extension nuts. which were then superglue in place to secure the rudder platform. The rudders were then fitted in place and held in position with the tiller collars which were made from 8mm rod and fitted the tiller arms and locked in place with 3mm computer screws and ni-lock nuts, a connecting plate was then fitted to connect the three tillers together, I also fitted rubberised washers to seal the rudder tubes. The third stage was to make the propeller supports. The centre support was a direct copy of the kit part made of brass and fitted to the kit with a plate and screws (this plate and the rudder plate were made from galvanised steel) and will sealed with resin after the I test the boat for leaks. The port and starboard supports were made by taking the kit parts and cutting them in have along the joint line or mould seam this gave me a template ,which I used to make cross-section segments but I did alter the template by increasing the boss diameter to 10mm and extending the support legs so that the finished support could be fitted through the hull (the picture of these show the mk1 version where I forgot to allow for the 4mm prop shaft which has a 6mm tube) any way the boss of these segments were drilled out with a 7mm drill and a length of 7mm brass tube fitted through the boss to assemble the segments, all of which were coated in soldering flux at this stage of the assembly which were riveted at both ends to hold it all together during soldering, after soldering the supports were then filed to the size and shape to resemble the kit parts as close as possible and fitted to the hull using a superglue and talcum powder mix and then I cast resin around the extensions to secure the prop supports in place. The fourth stage is the propeller shaft housing for the centre propeller housing I place a brass rod in a plastic straw and place in position in hull and using resin I sealed the hull with the rod in place this gave me a pilot hole for the centre prop shaft after I removed the brass rod. For the port and starboard shafts I used the kit parts which had hole place when assembled, this when I reinforced the housings ,the centre housing I glue 2mm of plasticard on each side and for the port and starboard I made a brass tube shroud which covered the housings which left gaps between the kit part and the brass which was filled by casting resin in the gap this increased the diameter to 10 mm so that there were little chance of breaking throw with the drill and finished these off by fill-in the outside with body filler and sanded to shape and finish . I then drilled through the pilot hole in the housings using very long extended drills and a wheel brace ( if I had use a power drill the heat would have melted the plastic of the kit and may have caused problems) I drill the shaft housings out 6mm them filed them out with 6mm file so that I could insert a length of 6mm brass tube. After all this was done I fitted a flanged bush made from 7mm tube and 2mm brass plate turned to 11mm to the ends or the propeller shaft housings. And now it is time I must ask for some help could anyone advise me on the length of propeller shafts, I know I can use a 300mm shaft for the centre shaft, but port and starboard will have to be longer. and I also need advice on selecting the motors, I want to use 4mm prop shaft with 35mm propellers. Any opinions welcome.
Thanks for the information. Following Doug’s lead I came up with an idea for a scale fluorescent light fixture to install on the pilot house ceiling. I have odds & ends in my spare parts boxes that I can use to make the fixture, complete with a reflector & transparent pebble-surface scale diffuser. Even though the fixture won’t be visible I still want to achieve nice, even light in the pilot house with minimal shadows. The fixture design is still on the mental drawing board at this point but I’m reasonably sure it’ll work in the tug’s pilot house. If it doesn’t, however, I’ll definitely look into your suggestion. Thanks for reading my post & for your helpful advice, too. Pete
I started this post hoping to get advice on allergic reaction to modelling with styrene but it seems to have turned into soldering problems. I'd really like to know if anybody else has had any trouble with styrene and how they coped with it. Fair winds, Nerys