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>> Home > Tags > advice

advice
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advice
sound generators by mturpin013 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 days ago
Anybody any advice about sound generators I have seen then ranging from £21 - @ https://modelradioworkshop.co.uk/shop/specialised-items/soun... to £62 - @ http://deansmarine.co.uk/shop/product_info.php/cPath/5_91/pr... Im wanting it the Fire Crash Tender any thoughts would be welcome

Zyx drives v shottel!!!! by green72west Petty Officer   Posted: 6 days ago
Thanks for replying RNinmunich. I know the Difference between schottel and voith prop. I pointed out in post i wanted to use In your words "z drives" on my model iO am attempting to build. I am new to this so give me a chance to learn without some negative remarks!!! OK. I will take your advice and will leave hull alone. I could do with advice from Members of installation of "z drives" in Bow of the hull. Thanks GREEN.

Exciters/transducers by pmdevlin Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 7 days ago
Im not on here that much, so a little late picking this up. Are you talking about TT25 transducers like the ones Mrrcsound sell/ I suppose they all work the same, I've used these a lot, in planes mostly, and experimented with boats, so can offer some hands on advice. Firstly, you don't cut any holes to let sound out, as this isn't how they work. Its all about the vibrations. The centre ring is epoxied (that's the best way, they have to be permanent, but with some teasing they can be removed it required, rather than cyno) to the surface, which obviously needs to be flat. The thinner the material, the more sound, but its marginal, as the thinner you go, the less bass, or deeper tones. With planes, the best material by far is the epo foam, so when mounting into a ply or balsa plane they work best going to foam, then the ply, and the same will apply for a boat. 2-3mm is generally the optimum thickness. Remember, the area is going to vibrate, so use an area that can do this, the sides of a hull are ideal. The back of the transducers get hot, so don't cover the back, the heat has to dissipate and once secure, make sure the unit can move in and out, its easy to drip glue in the wrong place and the whole thing gets stuck, it wont vibrate now, so won't do the job. Also, its worth epoxying the transducer to 2mm foam, epo that the ready to fly planes works best, its close density, the stuff that packs white goods is poor as its a more open density and falls apart. Once you have this, you can move it around by just holding it against the hull to see where the best sound is. All this is relevant to the Mrrcsound transducers, I use a number of his sound units, so cant really comment on what you are using as I cant find that info on this thread (did a man read!) Here are a couple of my models to give you an idea👍 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jXFvrkDl7ow&t=207s https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_OITvPabFHY&t=165s so these are all Mrrcsound units, and both have two tt25 transducers either side ogf the hull and fuselage. With the Mrrcsound systems, you can use two tt25, if you want an additional two, then an aux amp is required hope that helps! Paul

BRAVE BORDERER by RHBaker Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 11 days ago
Been researching the squeal and stutter on other websites and conclude RFI is probably not the major contributor. Others attribute it to a mismatch in the ESC / motor timing, which seems more likely. Whatever caused it, resulted in the affected motor failing. Which came first, the failure causing squeal or squeal causing failure is open to conjecture. Much to my surprise the manufacturer has decided to replace the motor under warranty. In the meantime, the motors I had planned to use originally (2800kV Outrunners) came into stock, so purchased a couple. Until now have had to use the ESC default settings as did not have a programming card. This also arrived with the motors. Following advice from another contributor reprogrammed the motors with “softer” start and acceleration settings. Fitted and tried the new motors and settings. On the bench, the squeal and stutter have almost gone. The motors are also more tractable. As the brushless motors are now going to be used for high speed operation only, with slow on the centre brushed, thought could simplify the controls by putting the brushless ESCs on one control system using a “Y” lead. However, this introduced inconsistent and erratic motor responses. Reverted to the two previous separate controls, port and starboard. On the water the performance is fine, as is the reliability. The 2S battery gave almost half an hours operation. The bow lifts nicely with both 2 & 3 S Batteries; plenty of spray. Hopefully resembling a 50 knot vessel! Another adjustment is needed to the transom flaps to try to hold the bow down later as she accelerates. Feeling now to finally be making progress with this model. The squeal has not gone, nor has erratic motor operation. The squeal is high pitched screech, rather like treading on a budgie! When it happens, bringing the control back to neutral and advancing it again almost always overcomes it. The erratic operation happens also when starting and is rather like the motors are not getting a signal to react to the control. Again, returning through neutral briefly seems to correct it. The revised motors and ESCs have increased the weight to 6lbs for the hull including all running gear, excluding batteries and superstructure. Whilst still trying to control weight have concluded this figure is satisfactory as the performance certainly is.

Rebuild starts by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 13 days ago
Evening Peter, I can confirm that the Shapeways 50 cal sets are very brittle, at 1/35 very filigree and fragile. I haven't built them yet, just trial fitted the carriages in the gun tubs, whereby I discovered that they are a tick smaller diameter than the tubs😲 So they are on the back burner until I have the hull and propulsion finished. Which will itself have to wait while I finish the hull renovation / conversion of my ancient Billing Boats fish cutter. Re: Airbrush: why the hell waste over a hundred quid buying another? Just buy a selection of needles and jets for the one you have. Mine came with a range from 0.3 to 0.8mm. Seem to remember remarking that 0.5 is too small for hull spraying! I'll only charge 50 quid for the advice and you've still saved 50!! 😁😁😁 Re next project: I reserve judgement, until I see one of the current projects afloat! 😉 Whatever, have fun with it, Cheers, Doug 😎

1/16th scale Tamar by marlina2 Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 17 days ago
Your probably right about the motors i just thought why not try them, might be an expensive mistake for no real advantage apart from speed and maybe a little quieter. Thanks for the advice about bracing I'd not thought of that it may be a little flimsy.

Stern Light by Elsrickle Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 19 days ago
Always listen to any advice am trying the Halfords texture grey on the decks with sea grey roof tops and light grey sides.busy with the deck and roof fittings at the moment still looking for a tow hook and lift Davit might just try to make one but getting right dimensions is the problem. Hope you putting on some photos when complete

Motor size advice by onetenor Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 21 days ago
Very nice too.👍

Motor size advice by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 22 days ago
That was also my first thought Martin👍 So Jacko, that means that all of the above applies also to your boat!😊 Happy shopping and boating. Cheers Doug😎

Motor size advice by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 22 days ago
I do believe that's a Sea Commander, an Aerokits model. Martin

Motor size advice by jacko Lieutenant   Posted: 22 days ago
I to am looking for advice in motor and battery combo for this boat and anybody knows what this is 😊 its 34 inchs long

?? none ?? by jacko Lieutenant   Posted: 22 days ago
[Score: 5/10] 34" ?? none ?? Single Propellor (3 Blade 30mm) - Comments: needs motor and battery looking for advice

Leaking Boat! by NPJ Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 26 days ago
Well just in case anyone was wondering.............After the visitors left I was being taken away for a few days R&R so I had a morning to 'mess about' as it is referred to here. A quick cheap and cheerful job was the one for me so ignoring all advice so kindly given I took up on G. K. Chesterton's advice "If a job is worth doing it is worth doing badly".......or did I get that wrong? First thing to do with a leaking boat was to drill some holes in it...........! You see, I was careful and had a piece of wood underneath. After vacuuming out I then poured Eze-Kote through the holes and persuaded an assistant to use the boat as one would a cocktail shaker. Then, pleased I had done something,I went away for a few days and it would have time to dry. Well back now and placed boat into bath a few hours ago. Result was..........water in the bilges in the same quantity as previously! Lesson......Always listen to Doug! Now, rather than sailing, I have both the issue of this leak looking like 'amidships' and the business of that bow to deal with. So will move back to the main thread. What is the best proportion of liquid hardener to resin? I bought some whilst away. Came without instructions. They must have thought someone who knew what they were doing would be using it.................. TTFN. NPJ

Running Lights Completed! by figtree7nts Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 28 days ago
Thanks Doug, Thanks Donnieboy, She was a lot of fun assembling! I had a good time with the build! Donnieboy, Tell your friend to keep an eye on. Gluing the deck to the main cabin. Make sure it in it proper position. Before gluing it down! Or the ladder leading down from the main deck. will come out off center! That's my only advice! PS. Maiden Voyage Soon! Cheers, Ed

Brooklyn is almost Completed! by figtree7nts Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 30 days ago
After being recommended not to drill holes in the Captains cabin.👍 By Doug (RNinMunich) I decided not to damage my model. By drilling holes in the Captains cabin! Thanks, for the advice Doug much appreciated! So, will figure out a different way to put. My steam whistle.....