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>> Home > Tags > advice

advice
good advice
advice
Help boat problems by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 hours ago
Hi Welcome to the site You haven't stated what ESC you have so it's a bit difficult to give advice. Most ESCs require some initial set up and it sounds like yours needs adjustment. If you can work one servo OK you presumably have a separate Rx battery? Many ESC's have a built in BEC and don't need a separate battery. There are 5 channels on the Planet so its important that you are using the correct channel for your rudder and ESC. You can use the rudder servo to select the channel you want to use for the ESC then plug the ESC into that channel and the servo into the rudder channel. We need to know what ESC you have to give further advice? Dave

3D printing by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 13 hours ago
Hi Wayne You will need ventilation holes to keep the temperature down. Hopefully this will help reduce the noise and smell! Mine isn't so bad temp wise if I don't use the heated base. It's great when it works, my advice is keep experimenting, it becomes easier the more you print. If you are using websites for help then you will know there are better software options than the basic supplied with the unit, unfortunately they come at a price. For hobby use you may decide the items you produce are OK, but for commercial use the cost may be justified. A useful first project is to make a cooling fan hood for the printhead. It helps keep the shape of long extrusions. Enjoy Dave

Aeronaut Pilot Boat by NickW Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 2 days ago
Some really good posts here, i'm also on the brink of purchasing the Pilot boat.....never built one before but if keep to the advice and tips given then I should be ok.....I hope --- Steve did you have a successful launch when you sailed it for the first time?

Norstar Wave Princess resurrected by AllenA Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 4 days ago
At last The Wave Princess sails again. She is not quite planing yet. She has a Speed 600, cheap '320' amp esc, Macgregor MR23A receiver and a Carson Reflex CS3 servo, 12" Graupner propshaft. Quite proud of the home made prop support, I will never throw out an aluminium cooking pan again. Rookie problems are: 1. slight bend in prop makes it a little noisy but improved with vaseline and WD40 mix. 2. Have a 50mm prop at the moment will reduce that to 30mm and work my way up until I get best result. Will change to Brass eventually. As you can see the front cabin has an incorrectly fitted visa lip which has taken me 30 years to realise, that will be rubbed down and flattened. Really pleased that my bootsale MacGregor transmitter works as if new with a few new connectors to fit the ESC. My first one of many and, hopefully, tidier boats. Any advice and guidance would be warmly welcomed

Brushless for 'Sea Scout'?? by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 5 days ago
Hi, as I have decided to use my refurbished, newly reversible Taycol Target in the Danish cutter restoration project I am considering going brushless for Sea Scout - 24". Weight empty 1.2kg. Any recommendations? Like Don't Do It !! Or In / Out, kV rating??? As a newbee to BL advice would be welcome. Ta in advance, Cheers Doug 😎

How do I resolve my varnish problem? by John Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 7 days ago
Thanks for all the advice. I am on with the sanding which will take some time.

Slowly does it. by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 7 days ago
I would say you've achieved your main objective magnificently 👍 The hull is looking really good. But the shaft angle is maybe 3 times the optimum, based on looking at my Aerokits Sea Scout layout and Sonar's advice! Looks like there is plenty of scope in the hull to mount the motor further forward and much deeper and still be able to fit a pretty large prop. But bigger isn't always better! Not really my expertise but would guess with 50mm you risk overloading the motor!? I'm sure the experts here can advise you better on that than I. You may also find the boat more responsive to the rudder if the prop thrust is directed at the rudder instead of more below it as it seems to be now? Cheers Doug 😎

Futaba Attack 2ER by Hugh Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 8 days ago
Thanks to all of you who gave me some advice. I found out that The crystal on the transmitter was missing. It was in the box, so plug in and great joy! Tears of happiness. I bought this set years ago in Dorchester, Dorset on a trip to see my parents. I think it is a bit cheaper to buy here, but I will compare next back in the UK. Cheers, and thanks again guys, much appreciated.Hughie😎

URLs /Email addresses by onetenor Commander   Posted: 9 days ago
Thanks for all the advice boys but it looks as though it is not going to be needed now

Hydrofoil by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 9 days ago
Hi Steve I do believe onetenor was having problems using the URL addresses posted in this blog and elsewhere on the site. Advice on copying and pasting has been given in another post, and even better Stephen (Fireboat) is altering the website coding to allow automatic recognition of URLs so the problem will disappear. Hopefully the very useful links suggested will help you decide how to proceed with your boat. A build blog would be welcome. Good luck Dave

Futaba Attack 2ER by Hugh Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 9 days ago
Hi Dave, No problem, I appreciate your advice. I will do as you suggest, and see how that works out. Cheers Hughie

Futaba Attack 2ER by Hugh Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 10 days ago
I have installed a Futaba Attack 2ER receiver plus 2 servos in my fireboat. Both lights are 'on' on the transmitter, and there is the correct voltage coming from the battery supply to the receiver. When I plug in the servo ,the servo moves a bit. However, the transmitter has no effect on the servos. I have checked and rechecked the connections. The aerial was cut, but I have joined the parts together temporarily. Can anyone give me any advice? Cheers Hughie

Er slight Problem by Pav403 Commander   Posted: 10 days ago
Hello Dave, Thank you for the advice, have you written a book as you are the oracle :) I was using 4mm balsa for the walls but I think when applying I've not had the frames back in a solid / secure support? Lesson learnt now, the frame is staying in their secure mounts until I am satisfied it's not warping. One thing I did notice with you models of Titanic and Olympic was the lack of stringers, I take it the frames were thick enough and the Balsa thin you did not need any lateral support? Again thank you for your advice on this one. Regards Dave

Couplings by BOATSHED Commander   Posted: 14 days ago
Hi Doug, Many thanks for your advice on the Taycol wiring.The ESC I am using is for reversing as well. I am not too good on the electrics and reading the electrical diagrams. But the centre diagram you have posted seems straight forward to me. I also have a Taycol Double Special that I will be using. Will your centre wiring diagram be the same for use with the Double Special. Also would it matter if a 10amp Bridge Rectifier was used and on a quick search all I can find is at Maplins is a Resin-Dipped Ceramic 100pF Capacitor would this be sufficient. Tom.

Possible Motors for Large Scale Tug by raginghalfasian Apprentice   Posted: 15 days ago
Im interested in building either a Mr Darby or a Pono tug. I saw some Flojet 74001 12V motors 0.8Amp (unloaded) 2600 rpm, they are 5 1/2" L X 3" Dia Would a pair of those work, my goal is some serious power? $40 doesnt seem so bad. Electronic Goldmine - Flojet 74001 Super Heavy Duty 12VDC Motor They are use in waste water RV pumping approx 12 gpm. Any advice?