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>> Home > Tags > aerial

Carry case. by Gregg Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
Hope you don't mind a suggestion. Make the stand as a separate item, so you can slide the stand and boat out as one. Just glue some guides for the stand to the base so it cant move about, otherwise it means you will have to lift the boat up a fair way to overcome the height of the stand sides, risking damage to the masts and aerials. ;) Or make the roof panel of the box, slide same as the side panel, but you have to slide the side panel out first, so they interlock.

1-35 Scale Schenllboot By TeeJay by teejay Commander   Posted: 3 months ago
Hi all this is my first blog, last year I post my intention to do a project about an RAF D boat that my Father served on and as a precursor to that build That I was going to do this S/E boat as the hull design is shared by both, and as plastic kit modeller the kit great the first stage was to put together the decks and superstructure as normal, with the exception of all the bits that would be easily broken as most kit aircraft modellers aerials and guns tend to brake ,so long ago I got into the habit of making these out brass rod or bar using a mini drill and a set of needle files, holding the drill in my left hand and the files in my right, when started this I saw the number of stanches I needed so I came across this little beauty a mini bead lathe it is a great bit of kit and not expensive less than £50 and plenty of types and accessories available so all the stanches aerials hand rails, gun rails, horn, and some of the components for the rudder and tiller were made on this lathe. so good time being had in my first radio control boat. the next post will show all the parts for the rudder/tiller setup ( I have reposted blog because I think I did not do it properly first time round)

BRAVE BORDERER by jbkiwi Commander   Posted: 4 months ago
Good to hear you are making progress with the noise. My ESCs are not programmable as far as I know (There may be a card somewhere). They were cheap Chinese waterproof car/Buggy ESCs with Fwd and Rev which I wanted for independent drives but for the price and how well they work, you can't beat them (about NZ $20 each) They have a very soft start (you can count the revs) programmed in as std, and the only problem I have found is that they sometimes won't go straight into reverse without quickly nudging forward and back, (just need to drive in a scale manner and it's fine.) I'll put a pic of the unit and motor in (also a brushed one I am using in the MTB (x2) which work perfectly only NZ $9.00) They have braking, FWD, FWD+REV and batt type adjustable by jumpers. Throttle set-up is simple with full FWD and partial Rev set by the sticks. Both types are 30A and never even get warm. I purchased some fans for them but have never used them. The brushless units have a fan plug on them. The squealing I have may just require a switching frequency change on the ESC (8kHz/16kHz -more RF noise on 16kHz but more efficient) but I don't think I have that option (do you have that option to try on your set-up ? might be worth a crack). The sound units muffle it a bit anyhow. Boat runs at 10mph (GPS) flat out (looks way off scale) but only needs about 1/4 - 3/4 throttle for normal cruising. Will try to put up an external vid soon. Transmitter is easily modded to twin throttles,- excellent cheap set for boats ( later model has internal aerial)

BRAVE BORDERER by jbkiwi Commander   Posted: 4 months ago
If you are using 2 ESCs/BEC/UBECs with 2 plugged into 1 receiver you should remove the red wire from one of the plugs and tape it back to the lead, as both plugged in will possibly supply too much voltage for the receiver (you are getting double the voltage from 2 different sources) and this can cause the ESC to stutter . You should have no problems with Brushless out-runner motors as with the correct match with the ESC they should be as smooth as brushed. I have dual 2000kv 28/45 in-runners (with water jackets) and twin ESCs and 2 sound units using 1 receiver in my 64ft ASR model with no problems regarding proportional control (fwd or rev). I had a 28mm O/R in a Maiami ASR and it would crawl along (but the high noise was ear wrecking so have changed it back to brushed for now. I do have a similar slight high pitched squeal at certain speeds on one motor and this may be caused by the particular motor not 'syncing'properly with the ESC (Chinese cheap ESCs and HobbyKing /made in china motors) but short of changing that motor and ESC I am just putting up with it for now. The high pitched sync noise is fairly common and sometimes not fixable, (a number of my larger planes do it and its audible from 100m away (also amplified by a hull,-nice sound box). It can depend on the way a particular motor is wound (no 2 are identical) or even magnet placement/timing, as the may be hand wound by 2 very nice Chinese ladies at different ends of a bench ( just read some of the Hobby King motor reviews ) You could try changing the frequency on the ESC if it has that option as a higher motor Kv sometimes requires a higher frequency. Also make sure your ESC is set to the correct battery cell count. If it has an auto setting that should usually work best for general applications unless you are running fancy motors. Regarding interference, make sure you keep your aerial as far as poss from the motors and ESCs (even on 2.4 - I put mine right up in the bow) and there should be no problems. I have had 2 twin engined boats (my MTB & ASR) 1 brushed and 1 brushless running side by side 10" apart using the same radio for both (same type of Rec in each boat) with no problems at all. The bow down is probably prop shaft angle (the shallower the better) but if you are using counter rotating props you could try swapping props (inward rotation to outward) and motor rotation to see if it makes a difference. Also with 2800Kv motors you should be using small props (around 28-30mm diam 3 blade) as these motors are made to rev) as on a 2s battery they will be turning at around 20,000 dry and perhaps 18,000 wet (depending on prop) and if you load them too much they will cook with no cooling (assuming they are around 28mm dia ?) Only other thought - silicone couplings will squeal real loud if they slip.

Launch ELAINE, by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 months ago
Hi John, I wouldn't attempt to replicate the old bottle TX. Who knows now what was in it anyway? The whole shebang sounds like a 'Homebrew' to me. (Nice drop o T-Triple-X anybody?😁) Once you've figured out the frequency band the RX is on making a transistorised CW TX on the same band is relatively easy. Tricky bit will be duplicating the 'modulation', i.e. how the control functions are actually triggered at the TX 😲 @ Colin; do you have any pics of the RX? Or any 'actuators'? Any sign of the aerial? Cheers, Doug 😎

Mahogany in Scale by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 5 months ago
Gents, just put the Sea Hornet in the build blog section, but whether it gets seen or not, I don't know. If the IC engine is an easy runner, Colin, run it on a water where the turds can't stop you. A navigable river or canal or just run the bugger till someone can prove (PROVE, mind) that you can't. Then just run it till the fuel runs out, reluctantly apologise and leave. BTW, I won't be showing video of this as I have no mobile phone beyond an emergency one that don't do pictures of any kind. I have a video camera somewhere that has dead batteries and a power pack, but where I sail there ain't no power! Doug, would the ED aerial be more like 27 meg if it was 6 foot long? I think it gets damned close to his ceiling if you try to put it up at home. So, chaps, Sea Hornet/Chris-Craft Special Runabout over on the Build blog section ifn you'm interested. Cheers, Martin

Mahogany in Scale by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 5 months ago
I can't wait to see it either Colin!😉 Martin: "plus a 22 1/2 volt, the same size as a PP3. Not sure what you'd do for that!" - 3 LiPo 2S (7.4V) in series should do the trick 👍 Or 2 x 3S (11.1V) or a 6S if you can find one! 8ft aerial! If a full wave antenna that puts the operating frequency at about 120MHz. If, as more likely, it's a 1/2 or 1/4 wave antenna it would be 60 or 30MHz. The latter being most probable. Cheers, Doug 😎

Mahogany in Scale by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 5 months ago
Oh PLEASE buy it, Colin. Sounds marvelous. Far too few diesel powered boats about and that RC sound s wonderful. I have an old chum who still has a 10 channel reed set of E.D. RC gear which still works. He says he had to fly with a plastic trimmer screwdriver in his hand to constantly retune the pots whilst flying! It has an 8 foot aerial and stands on the ground while he has a hand set wired to it. Doug could get that going. T They say you can't get the batteries, but a box of ten PP3s is a 90 volt battery. That's what my old REP set had, plus a 22 1/2 volt, the same size as a PP3. Not sure what you'd do for that! Cheers, Martin

Frozen TV screen by onetenor Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 6 months ago
Tried all those Doug. No set top box. Left off but heard a slight crackle after I switched back onwhich gave me the idea. Pulled aerial out and gave it a good wiggle putting it back in. Thanks anyway Mate Regards John👍

Frozen TV screen by onetenor Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 6 months ago
O.K. Fixed it. Waggled aerial connector

HMS HOOD by Trumpeter by cormorant Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 6 months ago
Almost at he end of what has been a long, sometimes frustrating, but very satisfying build. As the masts and spars are very thin, using my usual fishing line as rigging was going to cause problems with getting anything like the correct tension. What I ended up with was 0.45mm nickel silver rod. The fineness of the rod gave it a natural 'sag' for radio aerials and it is rigid enough for stays and supports. Hope someone finds this useful. Steve

Crash Tender davit info... by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 7 months ago
In your case Doug, I'm not sure even water is a strong enough diluant! Years ago I was living with my parents in Devon. They had a Radio & TV shop and I used to put the TV aerials up for my Dad. In those days I got bad hayfever and I was up on a roof with a 4 aerial and Amp. array when I started sneezing. I counted 27 sneezes whilst holding this aerial array. So bad was it that for the first time I also got a form of Asthma with it (they are connected), so there was I on somebody's ridge, a leg either side, sneezing loudly and wheezing worryingly just about hanging onto four bloody 18 element TV aerials. The home owner came out to see if I was OK and then her father-in-law came out looking hot and bothered. Neither realised what I'd seen on my way up the ladder! That's Plymouth Brethren for you! Cheers, Martin

Spektrum, new, useless... by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 7 months ago
Doug, if you have an Orange Rx. like mine, the bit where the plugs go is on the end face, so when you tip the battery wire on its side to plug in, the red wire is indeed uppermost, the black wire, bottommost. The Spektrum Rx. has the plug bit in the top face, so the uppermost, red lead goes through a right angle and goes downwards, but yes, in the middle. I made sure of the polarity first, but that bit you mentioned meant nothing to me, just symbols. I didn't want to trust them if I didn't understand them. The bind plug did indeed go in the slot marked bind. On the Orange Rx. it says BIND/BATT. I didn't plug any servos in as it isn't necessary and I didn't have them to hand without fishing them out of the restricted space in my Vanity model. I have now watched so many you-tubes and read so many instructions that I can assure you I got the order right. Bind plug has never been out of the Orange Rx, except to assure myself of good contact. Battery pack plugged into AUX> socket, flashing yellow light, Tx. tother side of workshop, pull on trainer switch and turn on power. Beedlyboop noise, light on right hand side of array, but NO flashing on Tx. Hold trainer switch till will to live starts to ebb, give up. The Spektrum you show, Doug is the same, albeit with different aerials, but the guy assures me it bound to his DX5e before he sent it to me for the trial. Your Orange however is very different from mine. Mine, as I said, has the pins poking out the end and the writing where your pins are. Yes, it has an S in the case, which I read meant signal, not that I knew what that was. It is a much smaller box than yours. Now you can see why I spoke of uppermost as my battery cable has to go on its side to plug into my Orange and in that position the red wire is indeed, uppermost. If you see the normal position for the Rx. to be flat on it's back with the pretty stuff on top. So, what else can it be? I will try what you suggested about the metal free garden, tomorrow and after that we will have to wait till the Fly Sky arrives, estimated E.T.A., early next month. Your PTB looks very bare. Had you always intended to strip the tubes and rudders too? Now, you have to paint the insides a nice neutral colour, like Spitfire Cockpit green, which is also Jaguar cockpit green, but Maseratis were silvery grey. Don't ask how I know...long story Cheers, Martin

Charging NiMhs, one for Doug?... by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 7 months ago
To save time, I have decided to treat myself to another Rx. This one claims to be compatible with my very type of Tx. so I have great hopes for it. It's cheap enough to take a punt, but it will be the last attempt. If this one don't work it's back to the 27meg and a wee green flag off the 6 foot aerial. Cheers, Martn

LED Tug Mast Navigation Lights by figtree7nts Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 7 months ago
Hi Pete, Glad you have learned! I too have learned as well. My Southampton didn't come with lights. So, your Richardson tug. must look awesome on the water at night. Oh, 2.4ghz is way better than 27mhz. This is why, I changed the reciever to my Southhampton! And the long aerial just doesn't look right! Ed