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I placed the rudder servo forward of the gear box. The folks at dumas wanted it placed. Against the coaming that runs along the opening of the hull! I found this angle troubling! The servo would be on a 180 degree angle. Which would be hard to get to. What if I don't have a screw driver. that's small enough to get to the screws! So, the servo has been placed next to the gear box! On a 90 degree angle which makes it extremely accessible. I have also placed the receiver. On the coaming using double sided tape. I placed the aerial on a piece of wood. I placed on a 90 degree angle! On my last Tug I put the receiver. On the motor mount floor. And the aerial against the coaming!
Drawings I have give her five turrets, one forward of the bridge, one each side amidships, and two aft of the superstructure, and a small structure between the two aft turrets. My photos show a large structure and the forward of the two aft turrets possibly not there at all. Highly unlikely to get an aerial photo, as there would have been very few aircraft overflying any warships during her lifetime, but maybe someone has a view from astern? My photos show he in a very dark grey, looks even darker than Home Fleet grey.
the good news is, (I should have mentioned this earlier), the contributors here are generally experienced, and have done it themselves, so rest assured everything you get is proven, you just need to pick out what is best for you. Some other forums are not as lucky, as you get a lot of "do this, try this", you go out spending the dosh, and the "advisor" when challenged has not actually done it himself, its just a load of crap.😡 really annoys me that this happens, and sometimes people on model shops can be just as bad. A mate of mine took his sons "toy" boat to a local model shop last year. His son had outgrown it, my mate wanted to paint it, make it his own, and ditch the "toys r us" running gear. I didn't know he had done this, when I saw what had been done, the money charged, we marched back to the shop, I gave the "expert" the crap back, and got a refund. 2nd hand 27mg 2 channel rx with the aerial chopped to 6 inches, a 4x1.5 aa battery holder for main propulsion, and a really tired 2 channel acoms 27mg tx £75😡 I found out when he asked me why the lights don't work from the tx like my boats, he had asked for this, 2 channel set, hmm.... later that month, with a 7.2v nims and a dx6 with now 6 channels, less than £50, experts eh! I know there are good, but this shop or at least the guy working there wasn't one of them
Hi Seafarer, a few basic questions! Mast for what boat/ship? Dimensions / pic or sketch of the mast? Space for drive motors/gears/pulleys etc? Hint: for the radar on my 1:72 destroyer I used an old servo; disconnected the feedback, and removed the mechanical end stops so it rotated continuously and drove it with a single 1.5V dry cell (alkaline), lasts for years😉 But in my case the scanner aerial sat on the director tower on the bridge, not on a mast, so simple direct drive coupled to the servo (hidden in the ridge) output shaft with shrink sleeve. Does a sweep in a little under one second. What type of radar are you trying to simulate? Cheers Doug 😎
Hi Norm, have seen nothing like that in any photo I have? Don't believe it was like that anyway, very impractical 🤔 Maybe it's just a fuzzy pic of the DF aerial. I also note that the DF aerial is not there on some photos. So; another case of 'you pays yer money and yer tales yer choice'! Yes, wire antenna only on the last three masts. There was nothing strung between the forward masts and the aft masts for four reasons: 1) the span is too long, 2) they would not want to roast the Island crew when transmitting Hi power HF from the starboard antenna in particular, 3) neither would they want to irradiate the ammo for the flak guns! 4) the forward masts were reserved for the vertical antennas. This gave the system the so called polarisation diversity; vertical is better for short range ground wave and the horizontal for filling in the 'skip zone' of vertical antennas. That is the gap of a few hundred miles between the short range ground wave and the long range sky waves. Bet you really wanted to know that didn't you?😉 Naval ship antenna layout design was part of my job for 30 years. Cheers Doug 😎 PS there would have been no halyards on the tilt-able masts. These are on the two fixed island masts, on the Signal Deck.
I have just gone through all my pics. On one there is what looks like a 'mattress' style rotating aerial atop the stbd forward mast. I think I shall string wire along the rear three masts both sides. Does that sound likely to be accurate? My wife and friends tell me to forget total accuracy as no-one seeing the model will know any different. Trouble is, I shall know.
Hi Just had a conversation with Dave Wooley re your question. It is likely that there would have been dipole aerials permanently rigged between the masts on both sides. Any signal halyards would have been closer to the upright with the aerials nearer the outer edges. model looking good
Hi Norm, A horizontal 'long wire' antenna is strung between the 3 aft masts only. Feeder cables at the Island end. In the attached photo you can just see this. The little black 'blobs' are the ceramic insulators between the tensioning cables and the actual antenna wire. The forward masts were rigged as vertical whip antennas. Often the long wire was for transmitting and the forward whips for receiving to minimise co-location interference between them. The fact that one is horizontal and the other vertical gives an additional 20dB decoupling between them, making HF reception (e.g. orders broadcasts from shore stations) much more sensitive. The forward port mast also seems to have an 'H' shaped direction finding antenna on top! Formed by four dipole antennas in two H shapes joined in the middle. The so called Huff-Duff antenna, for HFDF. Cheers Doug 😎 Correction😲: Forward starboard mast has the DF antenna!!
Hi Tony You have not said if the model performs normally as soon as you are back on the surface, but if it doesn't I have the following suggestions. I like Mtronic and have used them in many of my models but they can (as do several other manufacturers), in the event of a power wipe out, go into reset mode and this can result in you losing the fwd/rev function. The ESC has reset to minimum throttle stick down and only one direction as a result. I guess its pot luck whether this is fwd or rev but rev seems to be the most common. If you replace the BEC with a battery to power the rx this may help. You do need to disconnect the red lead from the ESC to the rx and still need to switch on the esc after the rx. If it has reset you need to reset the controls whilst the two lights are flashing by pressing the ESC button and moving the sticks to their full extreems. You will need to have capacitors across the motor terminals and also between each motor terminal and the case. Your rx connecting wires and aerial should be as far away as possible from the high current battery wires and the wires from the motor to the ESC. Doug has already suggested re rerouting the aerial and as you have this suggests a weak signal. Have you done a range check with the Tx aerial down? You should be able to have control from at least 20' without any interference? Please let us know how you progress.
Thank you for the reply already running on 40Mhz skysport transmitter also aerial is running outside and E.S.C is a mtroniks viper marine plug in and play but still have the problems as previous stated Tony