Evenin' George, any mid to dark green would do nicely. Suggest a satin / semi matt paint. Something like the Humbrol 131 or 195 in the attached chart. Of course it doesn't have to be the little Humbrol tins (unless you have an airbrush😉) but a similar colour in aerosol, maybe from Tamiya. Type depends on what was on it before!! To be on the safe side give it a couple of thin coats of grey primer first. Flat off with 600 wet & dry then apply the colour coats. E.g. acrylic. Where on earth, and when, can you sail up there in the frozen North!? 😲 Good luck, and have fun, cheers Doug 😎
Hi Steve, with the 'reservoir' I mentioned I meant a 'smoke reservoir' or a sort of collector, i.e. a wider section of the updraught tube, bulbous or upside-down funnel, to concentrate the smoke and then 'chuff' it out with the fan. Seems the modern versions of the Graupner gennys are very different from the one I bought 20 years ago! Mine has a narrow glass tube underneath which dips into the aerosol cap oil tank and feeds the genny by capillary action. Means it last for ages (well all afternoon anyway😉) on a 'tank' full. As I understand it the maximum fill (0.8ml) of the new one lasts about 8 minutes at 6V / 300mA. I have some of the new ones now and see what you mean by 'charging' from above. But, how do you propose to fit it? If it's a tight flush fit in the tube won't you lose the updraught chimney effect cos it can't draw cold air in around the genny tube? Yep, the 24V put me off as well. Rooky mentioned using a voltage 'booster' (i.e. doubler) but these are notoriously inefficient and if you're running on 7.2 or 7.4 main batt .....!? Just my thoughts, must experiment with the new versions. BTW: my static bench tests back then were also quite impressive, stunk the kitchen out 😡, but out in the open air with a bit of breeze or under way at speed it didn't look quite the same 🤔 Be interesting to compare notes when we both have them operational! Re 'Morse message': had hoped that an ex navy guy like Ed could decode it 👍 Cheers Doug 😎 BTW: your funnel construction and painting looks terrific 👍
Sorry for the digression Steve 🤔 Re your smoke generator - I hope you don't want to lay a smoke screen! Several years ago I fitted a Graupner smoke genny to my destroyer and hoped to feed both funnels with it. No way! 🤔 According to instructions I fitted it in a 10mm tube (alu) in the forward funnel, with the wick in a 'tank' made from a large aerosol cap, and fed it from the drive battery (12V SLA, 2 x 6V 7AH) via the Gear switch on the TX and a home made decoder / relay switch at the business end. First: it takes a little while to get 'steam up', second at best it produces whisps of smoke, and white so it looks more like steam. 🤔 Have experimented with 'additives', e.g. graphite, but have not yet achieved real black smoke. To increase volume when I refit the destroyer I have a second genny for the aft funnel and intend to build 'smoke reservoirs' under the funnel tube and drive it all with a 6v cooling fan from an old PC graphic card. The 'chimney effect' alone is not enough 🤔 I hope that in this way I can increase the volume so it looks a bit more realistic when 'getting steam up' or on 'Full Ahead Both'! (Give me all you've got Scotty!)😁 For various other 'mini model' projects, 1/350 Plastic Magic, I have acquired several mini smoke gennys from the model railway (1/87) department - experiments are on the To Do list😉 Cheers Doug 😎
Yes the answer is to use UPOL BARCOTE QUICK DRYING ISOLATOR. But costs about £26 a litre. But this will go over all types of paint and then allow you to paint without a reaction. It may be available in an aerosol. Please check it out as I find it saves hours of stropping on my old boats, my newest being about 1980, and oldest from 1918. Hope this helps, Colin.
Built an Italeri PT 109 about four years ago. Power is by a brushed 480 running on 2200 mha 7.4 Lipo. Drive is a single prop and it performs nicely at a scale speed but it can not be run flat out for too long as it will overheat and due to the excessive speed it can get slightly out of shape.. I used Humbrol Grass Green acrylic aerosol for the paint job with dull red from the waterline downwards. I built the model to its earlier spec with a life raft mounted on the bow in place of the later cannon which I believe was used for barge busting. Boaty
Hi Martin, Bin round the Talisker ? 😉 @stwdv; ignore what comes next, go to the last paragraph 😎 The scale effect (as I understand it) has nothing or little to do with shine! It refers to lightening / fading the colour to fool the brain into thinking an object is further away than it is, and therefore think it is larger. Look at any landscape photo or 'in real', hills or forests further away look lighter or more grey than the green ones in the foreground. There are pros and cons to both as Dave says. Cellulose is history, except from some nitrated cellulose solvents. In the car restoring days of my youth I remember getting crinkling if I used cellulose thinners from a different manufacturer than the paint 😡 @stwdv: if you do it veeeery carefully in very very thin misted layers (barely wet) you CAN put put a different paint on others BUT you need flat of and prime the old paint first. Pay a bit more for your primer (universal types) and ensure that the coating is absolutely complete and totally dry and hardened. Some combinations work better than others. But essentially it is better not to mix and match. It's essenentially the thinners that does the damage, less is more sometimes! Try to avoid cheap aerosols, paying a bit more avoids a lot of heartache and extra work, or throwing things in the bin 😡 They tend to have a fairly wide spread on the nozzles which wastes a lot of paint through over-spray. They also tend to be a bit thick and difficult to control the flow which can cause 'orange peeling or even runs and 'splodges' if the spray stutters. To counteract this one has to spray thinner; i.e. back off more from the object - which causes more over-spray. 🤔 The little spray cans made for modellers are much better than this in all respects than the cheap jumbo cans from the hardware store. Get a decent air brush for the big bits, then you can control the paint viscosity, flow and size and shape of the spray cone. takes a bit of practice but is worth it if you intend to build more models. But I suspect you wanted tips on the preparation! So let's cut to the chase😉 Sanding and filling are the buzz words. Checking the surface very lightly with your fingertips is much more sensitive and accurate than relying on your eyes. 🤓 When you think you got it right put on a THIN coat of primer (matched type to the finishing paint!) and you will soon see the spots you missed! So back to the filling and sanding. Use a very fine filler at this stage. Prime again and flat it off with 240 to 400 wet'ndry. Take off the residue with a damp sponge and dry!!! Go round this loop a few times and when eyes and finger tips agree you are ready for the finishing colour coats. Thin, let dry. Check for blemishes. Fix if necessary, flat off -> next coat. ALWAYS take note of paint can drying / hardening notes. Don't rush or you'll end up doing it again 😉 Hope this helps, bon chance mon ami 😎Doug PS my larger model (mostly warships!) I use resin based paints in half litre cans from the DIY shops and an airbrush. They are hard wearing, come in all colours (RAL codes) and finishes and are easy to mix and thin with turps or white spirit. They take the enamel for detailing with no problems. Snags: take longer to dry, but they are hard wearing and cheaper than millions of 14ml cans 👍
I thought I had better be the first to reply to my own post before you all realised what little research I had done beforehand! I have answered my own question. Searching the Halfords website I find that they do in fact make an aerosol "Sea Grey" which on further investigation has already been used on a Perkasa. They also supply a touch up bottle for detail on the deckhouse. As an old schoolfriend continually likes to remind me - "If all else fails, read the instructions!" How I rose to the dizzy heights of Commander I will never know. Steve
I have recently finished an Aeronaut Pilot Boat using a Halfords aerosol spray - VW Brilliant Orange, the colour recommended by a fellow modeller. It gave excellent results for a very modest price. I am now building a 49" Perkasa and am looking to use the same type of paint. Can anyone help with the corresponding shade of sea grey used on this type of boat please? Steve
After considering all the H&S aspects and conducting my own risk assessment (seriously !) and writing a method statement 😉 I am building myself a spray booth. The base for the spray booth is a steel framed folding trestle table that I already had in the workshop and is of ideal dimensions for the job. The framework for the booth is regular 25mm x 38mm softwood from my local DIY store. No elaborate joints here at all, just a few screws and plastic corner blocks and a few bracing fillets to keep the frames square and rigid. The idea is that I will be able to remove/discard the cardboard panels from the top and sides to de-construct it and pack it away until it's required again. The cardboard is just fixed to the frame with a heavy duty staple gun. An MDF panel with a suitable sized hole was made to hold the fan unit in the 'roof' and the flexible ducting routed to the workshop (garage) door (wooden) and connected to an exhaust vent mounted through the door. The fan unit is a brushless bathroom ventilator wired to a simple switch on the side of the frame, it can move more than sufficient air volume quite safely in the presence of propellants and solvents from the aerosols. I also fitted a 1metre LED strip-light to the same circuit to illuminate the interior. The finishing touch is an old shower curtain with a weighted hem that I had lying about to form the 'fourth wall'. It's suspended so that there's a 50mm air gap at the bottom for the air flow path. I bought a 3M 4521 Maintenance-Free Organic Vapour/Particulate Respirator for about £18 from Screwfix to wear whilst spraying. The mask filters are not replaceable so when I've finished all the painting it will be binned ! The mask is so exceptionally effective at filtering that I am able to stand at the booth and work INSIDE the booth with the curtain behind me to confine the vapours and dust and reduce the risk of dust etc. settling on the fresh paint. For those concerned for my health I can assure you that FOR ME this works perfectly safely and is very effective. So much so that there's no smell at all while spraying and I only get the slightest whiff of solvent smells in the workshop after removing the mask as all the nasty stuff is blasted out of the workshop from the enclosed booth. I expect some controversial opinions on this but in practice it is actually far safer than spraying paint in a confined area without any protection and ventilation at all, which is possibly what a lot of chaps (including me) have done or continue to do ! Now I can get some painting done...
The weather has turned colder and forstalled any temptations to spend valuable boat building time outdoors. Have now been able to focus on finishing the hull. This was done with the usual technique of rubbing down (both mechanical and manual) and then filling any depressions or defects with either wood filler or glaze putty. Then rubbing down again ' and again! After each completed rub sprayed the hull with aerosol paint, initially primer, then working up to colour and finally a clear matte to protect the decals and dull the earlier gloss finish. I prefer to use gloss for the intermediate coats as it reveals the surface defects clearly. The only problem encountered was with the opening stern gate, after much trial usage this began to get a 'chatter' during opeation. Dismantled and examined the micro servo and found that several small gear teeth had broken off. Attributed this to operating the gate by hand during the build. In future will only operate the gate under power. Whilst more time consuming this prevents any tendency for the linkage to go over centre and lock up, thus overloading and breaking the small gear teeth. The pictures show the hull finished up to deck level. There are no fittings installed. From now on anticipate the model completion will follow traditional lines, so will confine blog entries to those that either capture a milestone, or where something interesting or unusal has happened.
I have had my Paula III for quite a few years and she was beginning to look a bit jaded, so having just completed my Northlight Clyde Puffer and looking for something to do, thought that I might give Paula a makeover. Nearly all the additions I made to her were from spare parts left over from making other boats. A good strip and rub down and a couple of cans of aerosol (colours chosen by my wife when in Halfords) and 2 weeks later - makeover complete.
[Score: 5/10] 30" Sea Ranger from Aerokits plan Single Propellor Direct Drive to a 2855 Powered by LiPoly (11.1v) Batteries Controlled Through Turnigy ESC - Comments: Still very much work in progress This Sea Sea Ranger is built from an eBay "Aerokits plan" which has some subtle differences presumably to get around copyright. The cabin sides below cockpit window had a reverse curve to the original but it was not difficult to undo this modification Well the sea ranger if now complete finished I a Ford maroon colour Belco paint been on the shelf since the early 90s plus some more before I inherited it, the cabin sides are cream self mix into a Crown paints b/w sample pot. Cabin rooves sprayed with white aerosol. The original motor at 3100kv was far too powerful so a silly little out runner has replaced it.
See if any of these help you https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=Mail order aerosol paint supplies&oq=Mail order aerosol paint supplies&aqs=chrome..69i57.31367j0j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8 One a least should do good luck