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>> Home > Tags > aerosol

aerosol finished
Anteno 2 tug by Dick Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 1 month ago
Decided not to double plank as per kit instructions but skin the first planking with thin cloth 0.60 oz. Lot of rubbing down,now awaiting top coat Quick tip when using aerosol can or airbrush,use a large plastic storage container on its side as a spray booth.

U45 Tinplate Diving Clockwork Submarine by mactin Commander   Posted: 5 months ago
Ahoy Mateys, U45 11" long made from an old aerosol can,the donor clock for the motor was an old Westclox made in Scotland in the 60s, got it from Todmorden flea market for £2.00! This recycling lark can get expensive! mclaren clockwork submarines Cheers mactin.

Brass bashin' Chris Craft deck fittings... by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 5 months ago
Thanks Martin, I'll look out for that👍 Yeah, the Lightning is cool, I had the 1/72 version back then. I recently bought the 1/24th kit of the Mosquito, another cool kite! It's a MONSTER and I haven't had the guts to start it yet😉 I recently found on the Krick site some chrome "Racing Paint for Polycarbonate Body's" made by Ghiant Aerosols in Belgium, branded 'RC Car'. Comes in two 150ml cans; chrome spray and a lacquer / fixer. Haven't tried it yet, will report when I have. Cheers, Doug

20th Scale ELCO 80ft PT boat part 1 by Julio Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 6 months ago
Hi: I also use the aerosol (temporary bond) paper glue for plans...

20th Scale ELCO 80ft PT boat part 1 by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 6 months ago
Agree 'Steamgerd' 😉 I also find the aerosol paper glue very good. It doesn't soak and stretch the paper. Used it for the new cabin roof for my Sea Scout. The glue sticks can sometimes be a bit 'lumpy' if they are not absolutely brand new! 🤔 Above all, apply to the wood and not to the paper.👍 Cheers, Doug 😎

Painting by Falmouth1729 Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 8 months ago
Hi, do you guys use airbrush or aerosol cans for painting? Thinking in terms of a “plastic” grp hull etc. Thank you in advance.

Deck Colour by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 9 months ago
Evenin' George, any mid to dark green would do nicely. Suggest a satin / semi matt paint. Something like the Humbrol 131 or 195 in the attached chart. Of course it doesn't have to be the little Humbrol tins (unless you have an airbrush😉) but a similar colour in aerosol, maybe from Tamiya. Type depends on what was on it before!! To be on the safe side give it a couple of thin coats of grey primer first. Flat off with 600 wet & dry then apply the colour coats. E.g. acrylic. Where on earth, and when, can you sail up there in the frozen North!? 😲 Good luck, and have fun, cheers Doug 😎

HMS HOOD by Trumpeter by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 10 months ago
Hi Steve, with the 'reservoir' I mentioned I meant a 'smoke reservoir' or a sort of collector, i.e. a wider section of the updraught tube, bulbous or upside-down funnel, to concentrate the smoke and then 'chuff' it out with the fan. Seems the modern versions of the Graupner gennys are very different from the one I bought 20 years ago! Mine has a narrow glass tube underneath which dips into the aerosol cap oil tank and feeds the genny by capillary action. Means it last for ages (well all afternoon anyway😉) on a 'tank' full. As I understand it the maximum fill (0.8ml) of the new one lasts about 8 minutes at 6V / 300mA. I have some of the new ones now and see what you mean by 'charging' from above. But, how do you propose to fit it? If it's a tight flush fit in the tube won't you lose the updraught chimney effect cos it can't draw cold air in around the genny tube? Yep, the 24V put me off as well. Rooky mentioned using a voltage 'booster' (i.e. doubler) but these are notoriously inefficient and if you're running on 7.2 or 7.4 main batt .....!? Just my thoughts, must experiment with the new versions. BTW: my static bench tests back then were also quite impressive, stunk the kitchen out 😡, but out in the open air with a bit of breeze or under way at speed it didn't look quite the same 🤔 Be interesting to compare notes when we both have them operational! Re 'Morse message': had hoped that an ex navy guy like Ed could decode it 👍 Cheers Doug 😎 BTW: your funnel construction and painting looks terrific 👍

HMS HOOD by Trumpeter by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 10 months ago
Sorry for the digression Steve 🤔 Re your smoke generator - I hope you don't want to lay a smoke screen! Several years ago I fitted a Graupner smoke genny to my destroyer and hoped to feed both funnels with it. No way! 🤔 According to instructions I fitted it in a 10mm tube (alu) in the forward funnel, with the wick in a 'tank' made from a large aerosol cap, and fed it from the drive battery (12V SLA, 2 x 6V 7AH) via the Gear switch on the TX and a home made decoder / relay switch at the business end. First: it takes a little while to get 'steam up', second at best it produces whisps of smoke, and white so it looks more like steam. 🤔 Have experimented with 'additives', e.g. graphite, but have not yet achieved real black smoke. To increase volume when I refit the destroyer I have a second genny for the aft funnel and intend to build 'smoke reservoirs' under the funnel tube and drive it all with a 6v cooling fan from an old PC graphic card. The 'chimney effect' alone is not enough 🤔 I hope that in this way I can increase the volume so it looks a bit more realistic when 'getting steam up' or on 'Full Ahead Both'! (Give me all you've got Scotty!)😁 For various other 'mini model' projects, 1/350 Plastic Magic, I have acquired several mini smoke gennys from the model railway (1/87) department - experiments are on the To Do list😉 Cheers Doug 😎

Spraying/hand painting by jarvo Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 year ago
Hi Colin, Isolator is available in aerosol form, its about £10 from specialist paint suppliers, plus all the filler, paper, stopper, thinners and masking tape. Mark

Spraying/hand painting by Colin H. Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 year ago
Yes the answer is to use UPOL BARCOTE QUICK DRYING ISOLATOR. But costs about £26 a litre. But this will go over all types of paint and then allow you to paint without a reaction. It may be available in an aerosol. Please check it out as I find it saves hours of stropping on my old boats, my newest being about 1980, and oldest from 1918. Hope this helps, Colin.

PT109 Refit by boaty Admiral   Posted: 1 year ago
Built an Italeri PT 109 about four years ago. Power is by a brushed 480 running on 2200 mha 7.4 Lipo. Drive is a single prop and it performs nicely at a scale speed but it can not be run flat out for too long as it will overheat and due to the excessive speed it can get slightly out of shape.. I used Humbrol Grass Green acrylic aerosol for the paint job with dull red from the waterline downwards. I built the model to its earlier spec with a life raft mounted on the bow in place of the later cannon which I believe was used for barge busting. Boaty

Finishing by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 years ago
Hi Martin, Bin round the Talisker ? 😉 @stwdv; ignore what comes next, go to the last paragraph 😎 The scale effect (as I understand it) has nothing or little to do with shine! It refers to lightening / fading the colour to fool the brain into thinking an object is further away than it is, and therefore think it is larger. Look at any landscape photo or 'in real', hills or forests further away look lighter or more grey than the green ones in the foreground. There are pros and cons to both as Dave says. Cellulose is history, except from some nitrated cellulose solvents. In the car restoring days of my youth I remember getting crinkling if I used cellulose thinners from a different manufacturer than the paint 😡 @stwdv: if you do it veeeery carefully in very very thin misted layers (barely wet) you CAN put put a different paint on others BUT you need flat of and prime the old paint first. Pay a bit more for your primer (universal types) and ensure that the coating is absolutely complete and totally dry and hardened. Some combinations work better than others. But essentially it is better not to mix and match. It's essenentially the thinners that does the damage, less is more sometimes! Try to avoid cheap aerosols, paying a bit more avoids a lot of heartache and extra work, or throwing things in the bin 😡 They tend to have a fairly wide spread on the nozzles which wastes a lot of paint through over-spray. They also tend to be a bit thick and difficult to control the flow which can cause 'orange peeling or even runs and 'splodges' if the spray stutters. To counteract this one has to spray thinner; i.e. back off more from the object - which causes more over-spray. 🤔 The little spray cans made for modellers are much better than this in all respects than the cheap jumbo cans from the hardware store. Get a decent air brush for the big bits, then you can control the paint viscosity, flow and size and shape of the spray cone. takes a bit of practice but is worth it if you intend to build more models. But I suspect you wanted tips on the preparation! So let's cut to the chase😉 Sanding and filling are the buzz words. Checking the surface very lightly with your fingertips is much more sensitive and accurate than relying on your eyes. 🤓 When you think you got it right put on a THIN coat of primer (matched type to the finishing paint!) and you will soon see the spots you missed! So back to the filling and sanding. Use a very fine filler at this stage. Prime again and flat it off with 240 to 400 wet'ndry. Take off the residue with a damp sponge and dry!!! Go round this loop a few times and when eyes and finger tips agree you are ready for the finishing colour coats. Thin, let dry. Check for blemishes. Fix if necessary, flat off -> next coat. ALWAYS take note of paint can drying / hardening notes. Don't rush or you'll end up doing it again 😉 Hope this helps, bon chance mon ami 😎Doug PS my larger model (mostly warships!) I use resin based paints in half litre cans from the DIY shops and an airbrush. They are hard wearing, come in all colours (RAL codes) and finishes and are easy to mix and thin with turps or white spirit. They take the enamel for detailing with no problems. Snags: take longer to dry, but they are hard wearing and cheaper than millions of 14ml cans 👍

Aeronaut Pilot Boat by cormorant Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 years ago
Thanks Glyn. It is Halfords VW Brilliant Orange aerosol finished with Autoglym car polish. I used Halfors filler/primer to give a good base. Steve

What Colour? by cormorant Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 years ago
I thought I had better be the first to reply to my own post before you all realised what little research I had done beforehand! I have answered my own question. Searching the Halfords website I find that they do in fact make an aerosol "Sea Grey" which on further investigation has already been used on a Perkasa. They also supply a touch up bottle for detail on the deckhouse. As an old schoolfriend continually likes to remind me - "If all else fails, read the instructions!" How I rose to the dizzy heights of Commander I will never know. Steve