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>> Home > Tags > air boat

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HMS Erebus by RNinMunich Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 17 hours ago
Hi Gdaynorm (Why does that name make me think 'strine'?) 😉 Yes you are absolutely right Duratrax seem to specialise in cars & buggies. The Sprint always seems to appear in the context of the Evader buggy series, also it is listed as discontinued on the Duratrax site! http://www.duratrax.com/downlo ads/discontinued.html Nothing lasts for ever!! Maybe it is not happy driving two motors? What is the total current drawn? Since it seems almost certainly to be an overheating problem is there sufficient cooling air flow through the boat? Recycled 5V DC PC processor fans can be useful to help here. Since you can test motors by feeding directly I assume they must be brushed. Are your batteries, LiPo or NiMH? In both cases the Sprint has a low voltage cut-out. 3.3V for LiPo, 5.0 V for NiMH. Maybe the cut-out circuit has a hysteresis effect. This means that if the battery recovers slightly when taken off load, and cools?, the boat runs again - until the cut-out point (thermal or volts) is reached again! I would expect the interval between cut outs to reduce slightly with each cycle until the battery is totally depleted. This effect is also noticeable with sealed lead acid accumulators. I would be tempted to bite the bullet and buy 2 ESCs designed for marine use (e.g Graupner Navy VR series or Viper Marine or US/Canada equivalents) and a 'Y' cable to run both in parallel from one RX port. Then each ESC only has to handle half the load. And ensure sufficient cooling air flow, or even water cooling!? How big and heavy is the boat, what type are the motors and what size & type are the props? Cheers from Munich, Doug 😎

Li-Poly batteries by rolfman2000 Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 5 days ago
My use of lipos involves drones (racing and camera), fpv fixed wing long range aircraft, and boats (mostly reasonably fast electrics). And my charging regime is to number all my similar cells, so all can be rotated, evenly used and charged. I normal charge twice, then balance charge the third. This has kept all my cells with even capacitance and in good condition. I say that, so far (touch wood) that I haven't managed to puff or blow any packs.

How many is to Many by RNinMunich Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 6 days ago
a REAL scary question 🤔 1 H class Destroyer and 1 Submarine KM IIA (1:72) in SLEP (Service Life Extension Programme!) 1 KM pocket Battleship Graf Spee & 1 HMS Belfast (1:128) in Fitting Out Dock. 1 Tug Southampton ca 1:50 ARTR 1 Kentish Fishing Boat ca 1:50 inherited restoration & motorisation project 1 Sea Scout restoration ARTR, built by my Dad 50 years ago! 1 flying boat ARTR 1 Hovercraft needing painting & RC gear fitting. Potential 'Plastic Magic' :- 1:350 Bismarck, USS Enterprise (The Big E), HMS Hood, HMS Ark Royal, Airfix HMS Illustrious (Invincible class) & T45 Daring 1:72 Revell Flower class corvette, German Lifeboat & S100 class E Boat, Airfix MTB, RAF Launch, KM E Boat 1:144 Revell Fletcher class destroyer. Have started collecting Micron Radio gear for the conversions. And JFF an Airship! Ready except for the Helium needed! Plus many 1:400 1:600 1:720WW2 navies plastic kits & etched parts JFF & to hone the skills I should live so long ! Help 🤔 Cheers from Munich Doug 😎

Recovery vessel by canabus Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 20 days ago
Hi All We tested one today using PVC conduct covered with pool noodles which is a high density foam. We used hair elastic bands to hold the recovery boat to the device which also handles different width boats. The other end is faired out to help capture the other boat also if only a push is required. The forward sections can be un pinned for transport. The test today worked well on the unrequired to be rescued tug. The PVC tubes are sealed in the T sections and the removal sections forward of the joint pins.

Using old motors by Westquay Lieutenant   Posted: 20 days ago
Hi Dave, many thanks for your answer. I wanted a scale speed of 25-40mh, so much slower than the real speed of that figure. As long as they just about plane I'll be happy. I've been trying to get a Bob's board for ages. My old friend has a few in his loft. He used to make all the display models, aircraft and boats, for Bob's models. My R/C gear at it's earliest is Mini Hex from 1971 or Digimac. I can't get the REP single channel I once had, but which was stolen. I should say that my old Crash Tender (which I really should finish some time 53 years later!) always ran a treat with it's Supermarine Special, using said REP sytem. The Basset-Lowke motor is a permanent magnet type so will probably be OK with an ESC, but I have no idea what sort to use as I don't understand them. All I read seems to suggest that they are either expensive or unreliable. And they need "programming", which totally puts me off! I have no model boat clubs near here, so would just use the local canalised river which has both sides accessible and is rarely used by full sized boats. But at least I don't have to worry about other R/C users. Looks like the world is much the same for old motors after all. Cheers, Martin

Recovery vessel by sandkb Admiral   Posted: 21 days ago
The last post should have read air boat ie. swamp boat.

Recovery vessel by sandkb Admiral   Posted: 21 days ago
Thanks for that.worth considering . I thought maybe an airport Boat would overcome the weed issue.

stripping hull for repair and repaint by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 21 days ago
If it's old chances are it has oil based paints and will need lots of elbow grease, paint strippers and if it's anything like my Sea Queen some careful use of a hot air stripper to get the final residue out of the wood. I did start with Flash oven cleaner but changed to Nitromors and a scraper. It will be a ply hull and if it had an ic engine fitted you will need to strip out much of the inside to get rid of any diesel impregnated wood. I would also consider replacing the prop shaft and re-positioning to a less acute angle as you will not need the height in the boat that an ic required. IC used prop shafts often have little or no bearing left and can also be badly bent or twisted. Eze-Kote was very popular to protect the engine bay in a model plane and I still have a bottle bought some 20 years ago. It will protect the wood but I suspect you will need some form of tissue or cloth to make the hull waterproof. Others seem to prefer this to lay-up resin but I have not seen any pictures posted to prove its suitability. Good luck and perhaps you will consider a build blog so others can see how you progress? Dave

Cockpit deck brass features. by robbob Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 23 days ago
The aft cockpit deck has two drain holes on the real boat that discharge through a pair of outlets on the transom if the boat takes on any water in the cockpit well. On my model the drains are not connected to the outlets, that’s taking the scale accuracy a bit too far 😜, nevertheless I don’t want a couple of holes in my deck letting in water so I need to fill them in with some drain gratings. I made these from some 10mm thick wall brass tubing and some 2mm brass rod. First I filed three narrow slots into the end of the brass tube about half the thickness of the brass rod and soft soldered them into the slots. The rod was then filed flush to the top of the tube to flatten the profile and form the grating slots, and the overhang filed flush with the tube sides. I used a pipe cutter to separate the finished piece from the brass tube and then repeated the process for the second fitting. The grating needs to be blocked so that It doesn’t let water through and I did this by forming a disc out of black plasticard the same diameter as the tube bore as a stopper and filling the base with epoxy to form the seal, the finished drains were then glued into the deck panel flush with the planking. I used some 1.5mm brass rod bent and fashioned to form the handles for the hatches and these were fixed with epoxy through holes in the panel. Another brass feature on the deck are the rivets around the battery hatch, these are actually some domed rivets with a 2mm head and 1mm shaft that I bought online from RB Models (Poland) along with some other excellent items from their range of ships fittings. www.rbmodel.com Finally the deck panel and main hatch cover were sprayed with several coats of satin lacquer. The panel will need some further work to incorporate the towing hook stays and I’ll cover that in another posting.

Orson lightning 72 by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi Good to see an ex ic model converted to electric power. Have you any on water shots? We have several air boats in our club, good for when the weed is a problem, Dave

Applying the waterline. by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi Mark Unless you are looking exactly at the side of the model with your eyes aligned to the level of the line it will look wrong because the spray rail is raised from the hull. If you remember the old type of analogue volt meter, the better ones used to have a mirror on the scale to ensure you were viewing from the correct angle. I suspect now that we have aired the matter many will notice this on model boats. I suppose we are all wishing to achieve the correct finish to our models and yes we are sometimes too exacting. Dave

Richards 48" Swordsman by colinhubbard Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
Go to the fairey owners club site, some great info and pictures. Also look up historic racing boats. You'll be pleasantly surprised by what's out there. Some boat yards have some nice examples for sale and the pictures are good for reference.

Got it so here goes... by manyboats Lieutenant   Posted: 4 months ago
I built the Fairey Huntsman by Precedent back in the ‘70s. It must have been a very different kit to the one being sold now. I had few resources back then but somehow managed a half decent job of it with a glow plug engine for power. Never could start it, and eventually sold it to someone prepared to persevere with it. It must have had a few fittings, and plans, unlike the current one, which is really poor quality. After some consideration and a timely article in Model Boats magazine, I ordered the plans from Myhobbystore.com. I still wanted to make it the size of the kit so had to get them enlarged to 11th scale.; not a problem. So this build blog is to encourage anyone wanting to build this delightful classic boat not to get a kit but to scratch build it. Better and much more satisfying. You’ll probably have to scratch build all the fittings and detailing anyway. I didn't manage to take detailed photos all the time but hopefully there will be enough to be useful. I got lucky with supplies of appropriate ply at my local Menshed, and got on with cutting out the frames on their scroll saw. I had plenty of materials accumulated over years and lots of cedar from venetian blinds, which is really good for planking etc. The plans are more accurate than the kit and have much nicer hull lines. Fitting the frames was straight forward, and double cedar chine strips were epoxied in.

San Pedro Push Boat by Peter47 Lieutenant   Posted: 4 months ago
Air bricks are best as they have holes already in to thread rope through. Works a treat at Ethrow Park once it is clear to open water, keep channel open by running you boats back to shore every so often. Funnily enough our lighter boats work best as they rode up the thinner ice and their weight distribution the rest. Brother 6' tanker was useless as it had a bulbous nose and just got jammed. :-)

POLARITY by tomarack Lieutenant   Posted: 4 months ago
Hi, because it is a ship model forum , I would like to add , that after a general agreement the frequency of 35MHz is primarily intended for model aircraft and for ship models this is 40 MHz. Modeler with his boat model to 35MHz in our country considers to be a reckless pirate. If by chance your transmitter operates on the same frequencies, and close air modeler accidentally tuned to your channel, you can cause air model disaster , which is several times more expensive than your ship model. Tom