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>> Home > Tags > aluminium paint

aluminium paint
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Cabin detail part 3 (instrument panels) by mturpin013 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
After the Christmas break its back to the cabin to finish some of the instrument detail. You may recall I detailed the cockpit with some ply constructions to represent the general layout; I also intend to detail the compass, throttle controls, steering wheel, panel lighting, and instrument panel. The instrument panel was copied and scaled from various drawing and pictures and I came up with a three-panel unit where panels 1 & 3 are identical as they are for the two-engine managements system the centre panel deals with electrical things. I intend to make the panel out of 1.5 mm aluminium cut to size on the guillotine I then attached this to a hardwood block with some strong double sided tape this will be more than strong enough to hold the piece for the drilling/light milling operation. I worked out the hole positions using an absolute datum (same as CNC work, if only I was still working) This does take some time using my rather old milling machine making sure any backlash is taken out during the 28 linear movements. I used various sizes of centre drills to produce the holes as they give not only accurate size but also perfectly round holes on thin material and the only ones that needed to be a particular size (6mm dial holes) the others are for switches and LEDs which can all be a 3 mm location hole. Each hole was drilled and then chamfered to simulate a bezel on the dials. Finally, I milled a shallow groove (2mm x 0.3 deep) to simulate the separate panels. I have copied a number of different marine dials from the internet and using PowerPoint I aligned in a complete group and then printed and laminated them, this will be placed behind the aluminium plate using double-sided tape. Having fixed the dials in place I drilled through the holes where LEDSs will fit. The LEDs will be shortened and polished so they are flat to the face; these are then stuck in place. Next, I made all the switches from brass bar with a fine brass pin glued across its face to simulate the lever. These were painted gloss black and the centre pin picked out in red, they were then glued into the 3 mm location hole. The black knobs/pull switches were turned out of black Perspex and polished; they were then glued into the location holes. The whole instrument panel is then pinned on to the wooden framework which has been left in natural wood finish (ply) as it looks like the original boat was just a varnished ply finish.

Darby One Design hydro... by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 5 months ago
Dowty Turbocraft was smiled upon by Donald Campbell as a service vessel after he'd used Albatrosses. It's thought it was a bit of wash from the Dowty that caused his final crash. i I used to have a Mk 1 Albatross, Hull 137, but nI couldn't use it anywhere fast due to river speed limits, so I flogged it. It was all riveted aluminium, made by ex Spitfire makers. The countersunk rivets, after over 50 years were so well applied you just couldn't see them. Amazing craftsmanship, but when they were first on sale, they were the price of a small house! I paid rather less, rebuilt the engine, repainted it and flogged it for a lot more, then made a 1/6th scale model of it and sold that to a man who owns most of the boathouses round Windermere. A Ford 1172 sidevalve engined boat would tow 2 water skiers amazingly. There's a website called Old Speed Boats that deals with Dowty Turbocraft well. Cheers, Martin

Brass bashin' Chris Craft deck fittings... by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 6 months ago
Colin, these are to fit in with my Chris Craft, which is roughly 1/8th scale, so they just look right. I don't have any dimensions as there are no Chris Craft Special Race Boats in Britain. Not that anyone would dare to question you anyway as nobody gives a toss about classic speedboats over here. We never had those types of boats. The Thames had one or two nice Brookes and slipper launches, but our attempts at speed were never as elegant as the Yanks and were all a bit boxy and unembelished and generally sat upon by authorities who didn't like speed, except at Windermere and Oulton Broad and they were mainly outboard powered with one or two exceptions in aluminium, and paint. Mahogany was strictly for furniture for the English. I will get all these bits cast and will have spares, so if you need any that are among my bits, just holler and I'll see what I can do. May have to charge for metal weight, but that's about it, as I will have to pay for that, even if I can get the bits squeezed in other peoples' moulds. I reckon you could use these on a 1/12th scale model without any doubt being caused. Most boats used two of those vents. A couple of cleats, a light/cum staff holder and screen supports, which I'm also doing but haven't got a picture of. That will comprise left and right, short and central, longer. The glass will slide in cast in grooves. A filler and steering wheel and instruments finish it off. Can't do a bow piece as they are all different and must fit the boat exactly. That's down to you and you can only foil that for the chrome look. Just wait till I have to do some of these! Ain't they gorgeous? Cheers, Martin

Brass bashin' Chris Craft deck fittings... by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 6 months ago
Best for our purposes, Doug, would be Sellotape aluminium tape. It's self adhesive and very malleable so can be persuaded round all sorts of shapes. I am currently foiling a 1/48th scale Airfix Lightning jet, my favourite Cold War jet. Yes, even I make up the occasional kit and it IS a belter. But silver paint won't do, so I use all sorts of cooking foil, turkey foil, Kit Kat wrappers, etc. Martin

U-181 by reilly4 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 7 months ago
Hi Doug, I have used the floating periscope on my other submarine too. On that one there are two sets of two. If the periscope tubes slide easily and the float is big enough then it will work. I have used aluminium tubes on the HMS Triumph. The U boat scopes are both aluminium. They are loose so I can put one or both in before sailing. The floats are balsa wood and painted for sealing.

Tow hooks by AlanP Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 8 months ago
Dropping down aft from the boat deck are the tow hooks, why there are two hooks, I have no idea, but that's what is shown on the drawing. Taking the dimensions from the drawing the main part was made up of plasticard and bits of brass tube, the two hooks were made from brass sheet and soldered together, the hoop that these run on goes through the superstructure and is fastened with nuts on the inside. To the side of the tow hooks is an exhaust with silencer, this was made out of aluminium on the lathe with bits of brass tube, also on this platform are two coal hatches, again made out of plasticard and wood with painted staples as handles.

Funnel by AlanP Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 9 months ago
The funnel was made out of 40mm plastic waste pipe, let into a piece of 3mm plasticard, thin strips of plasticard super glued around to simulate the sections. The hatch at the back made with plasticard, hinges and handles again made out of plasticard. There are four stop cocks at the front, the bodies of these were made out of aluminium on the lathe, with 1mm rod and some hand wheels out of the scrap box. There are four stays to hold the funnel and one at the top that goes to the aft mast, small hand rail knobs were used for this job. The funnel was painted (no it isn't pink, its the flash from the camera that makes it look pink) small brass tube to the steam whistle and the whistle made out of a bigger dia tube, a ladder added out of the scrap box and the completed funnel ready for fitting

Stanchions a making! by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 year ago
You could always use aluminium and leave unpainted but difficult the add all the bits although you can get ali solder! Looking good. I turned some brass rod to cap my tubes but I like the idea of brass screws.

Priming the hull. by pmdevlin Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 years ago
I used grey card for the caulking, I was lucky with some light coloured strip I was given, unfortunately no idea what it was, then I think I stained with clear satin or matt ronseal varnish, the final effect was nice. The battery access, and the large central access in the rear well was just painted with aluminium paint, rivet detail on the towhook reinforcement and battery access panel was with dressmaker pins 😊

Monster Mersey by skegness Commander   Posted: 3 years ago
Because the original builder based it on Scarborough lifeboat,I decided that I would name it after Skegness lifeboat as it's my nearest station to me (52 miles away), so I set about taking all decals off and naming it Lincolnshire Poacher 12-008 (a name tag and ON number was changed inside cabin) even though it has an orange superstructure the bottom half of the boat was a different colour eg: Aluminium below waterline and blue above waterline,I found it difficult to get aluminium paint (some people said silver would be ok) so I looked around for Ali paint and found it in Halford,engine paint(enamel) so I have used that and I have got to get a couple more cans,the reason for the Ali paint was the first 10 Mersey lifeboats were Aluminium bottom and I did not want silver as there is always someone will say that's wrong ( I don't care) as soon as bottom half is finished I will take some more photos

my Veron Huntsman28 after a re-vamp by pmdevlin Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 years ago
Its called Chrome Illusion http://www.chromeillusion.com/ not the easiest website to navigate, the deal was I did the prep, all the metal parts look stunning, aluminium and brass. The plastics are lovely, but my prep just wasn't good enough, particularly the window frames. I have spoken to Anthony the director, he has agreed to do them again, later this year, but this time I will make them from aluminium, or speak to Stephen about having 3d ones made. If I had painted with primer first, I would have seen any imperfections, I just didn't think the finish would be that good, and of course, any reflective finish such as this shows any imperfections! I also damaged slightly the top of the windscreen, by messing around with tinting tape, of course, it stuck to the chrome paint as I was fitting it, and pulled a bit of chrome off, again, my error, but that's being very critical I suppose, you have to look pretty close for these faults

Making working work lights by AlanP Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 years ago
Next are the brackets for the lights, these I made out of 1.5 plasticard, 1.6 aluminium rivets are used to fasten the brackets to the lights, I also use these to fasten the brackets to the boat. Lights and brackets painted. to be continued 😀 Alan

RNLB TYNE CLASS by SandSerin Apprentice   Posted: 4 years ago
When I built mine I built the Platform from Evergreen Styrene angle and plastic card and used Carbody aluminium mesh for the floor, not correct I know but it looks ok. I made the shape from plasic card, put the angle round it , and the supports underneath that can be seen, then painted it all black and put on the mesh, if you can wait a week or so I will send a photo of it close up but heres a photo of mine half built ~What scale is yours?

fireboat update by AlanP Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 years ago
Todays effort was the loud speaker/hailer for the wheelhouse roof. The body was turned out of aluminium and painted white, the bracket Is made out of bits of plasticard and painted silver

fireboat update by AlanP Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 5 years ago
The lifebelts have been painted and brackets made out of plasticard. These have been painted silver and fastened with small aluminium rivets, held In place with a dab of superglue on the underside of the hatch. The hull Is now masked up so that the superstructure sides and any other grey bits can be painted, been putting this off for a while 😟 Alan