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>> Home > Tags > auxiliary

MTB by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi Rowen, we're not splitting hairs! Together we are getting to the roots👍 I had also noticed the slight differences in superstructure; especially the aft part and the bridge top/screen. But I noticed these variations also in the Danish and other variants. Didn't want to overload the post with these as I thought it was long enough already😲 Seems some variations were introduced depending on the base variant it was ordered as MTB or MGB (most of which still had at least two torpedoes!). Since the Brave class were apparently very expensive to produce (which is why only two were built not the planned six?) the later variants were based on a cheaper export version, 'Felicity' type I think they were called. They were a little smaller but with similar performance and firepower to the Braves, some with two Perseus turbines instead of two but most with three as in the Braves, and cheaper to build with wood on alu frames instead of all metal. Usually classed as FPBs or FACs depending on armament. Summary; The Perkasa was not a generic class but a specific four ship class for the RMN. Basis for the hulls and superstructure design was the same as the Braves and Felicity but some 'poetic license' was taken with subsequent export order with variations even within classes. Comparing available (to me) pics again I now tend to agree with you that the rounded bridge of the model is more like the Perkasa class than the box-like bridge of Swordsman. 😲 BTW: In 1971 the RMN Perkasas were upgraded with SS12 missiles so there's another interesting variant for the aficionados 😉 Credentials: was not in the RAF (but Dad was!), but I worked with the RMN and the Surabaya shipyard (and various other bidders) on the design of the COMMS systems for the replacements for the Perkasa class and then their replacements, up to the current NGPV-2 (New Generation Patrol Vessel-Batch 2). Interesting work and people. Also did some work on their new frigates and an auxiliary in the nineties. One thing I always did before embarking on such projects was to research the background of the navy involved, operational area and requirements and also the potential shipyard partners. Part of establishing confidence and rapport. 😉 Anyway - whatever; model-wise - if it looks right it probably is right! Main thing is fun planning, building and above all sailing, exchanges like this help us all a lot I believe. All the best Doug 😎

Working Radar for Many Scales by bilzin Commander   Posted: 3 months ago
Building a German Police launch right now and thought that the radar scanner components were a bit 'heath robinsonish', so decided to see if I could make an alternative unit. Photo 1 shows the Radar scanner parts obtained from MMB (ebay) for the princely sum of ONE POUND !!!!! plus 28p postage, and construction is of a medium soft resin that isn't prone to breaking or splitting when shaped or drilled, and a short length of 2mm brass rod becomes the drive shaft. This particular unit has a 44mm sweep bar but there are many other sizes available Photo 2 shows the drive motor which operates on voltages between 1.5 and 6v, ideal for the control driver which is the next item. Available from saih.tan on Ebay for under 7 pounds, and if the motor is mounted on a removable bracket as I have done, this unit can be used in several models without the need for major 'surgery', the motor and radar shaft being connected with a short piece of rubber tubing Photo 3 shows the receiver driven radar motor speed control which operates from an auxiliary receiver channel and takes the motor voltage from the main receiver supply, thus obviating the need for a separate supply and switch. This unit is available from and costs a staggering 14.50 post free sheesh ! I must add here that I am in NO way connected to any of the suppliers mentioned here, but just though some other modellers may be interested in 'home brew' accessories and suchlike.

MV TEAKWOOD by RHBaker Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 5 months ago
As the under deck access was now as good as it would ever be, it seem be an opportune time to add the major pieces of operating equipment. One item overlooked in my previous blog was the stern bulwarks. The attached picture reminded me that I had recessed the bulwarks to epoxy a piece of alloy strip onto them. This was another attempt to make sure the bulwark joints were strong enough so they would never pull apart. The alloy strip had been bent to follow the correct profile, which was thus imparted to the bulwarks. The rudder post had been fitted earlier and the rudder horn now installed. The servo location was chosen to fit it close to the rudder. Appreciate the rudder/servo sense is reversed, but this reflects all my models and retains Tx control consistency. Linking them was easy through the generous holes previously cut in the bulkheads. An auxiliary bulkhead was cut and installed to hold the motor. Once the correct spacing and location was achieved, this bulkhead was also epoxied into place. Readers might question my choice of “O” ring and pulley drive. Have used this arrangement on several models and have never had a problem. The “O” rings easily last a couple of seasons, but usually replaced as part of the winter PM program. The arrangement has advantages in that the motor orientation can be reversed to minimize space and alignment requirements are reduced. It is also quiet, easy to work on and a modicum of speed adjustment can be made with the pulley sizes. The black tube in the foreground, looped out of the way, is the shaft oiler feed. Seems to have become is increasingly difficult to buy new shafts with this feature. Not sure just how well they work as always pack the shafts with oil and grease annually, but they do appeal to my Engineering sensibilities. The ESC and will be added Rx later, they will easily fit easily into the remaining space.

Layout and Limitations (con) by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 5 months ago
I have just looked at mine and attach a photo. I suggest you mark with red tape the same connector on each exciter in the same way mine is marked. If neither work yours are wired differently so reverse the wires and mark with a dot of red paint. The circuit board is integrated with the rx so you will need to buy electronic switcher units for each auxiliary function. Have you decided what radio you intend to use? Ideally you need a spare channel for each auxiliary, but there are other options that work with lesser channels. Choose the radio and we can advise on the switcher units.

pictures by tomarack Commander   Posted: 5 months ago
Hi,I decided to use an auxiliary engine on my barge models too, (bargemen on the real barges called it "iron topsail"). It's an advantage when the wind stops blowing - and I do not have to swim for the model in cold water ... Tom

FRESH BATTERY RUNNING TIME by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 6 months ago
Hi Les, Sorry🤔 but this is another "How long is a piece of string?" question. It's a simple equation to work out the theoretical endurance, but no input = no output! Inputs required are- Battery type and nominal capacity; mAh as printed on the battery pack, Current drawn by all the electrics connected to it: RX, servos, sail winches etc, auxiliary motor if fitted. I'll leave that bit to the sailing buffs here. I have zilch yachting experience. Re: depletion: Battery should not be left connected when not in use! You should have an ON/OFF switch in the boat to disconnect it. If not in use for longer periods it should be removed from the boat and periodically charged, only to 50% capacity for a LiPo when stored. stored NiCads and NiMh should be periodically cycled; that means discharging to the safe minimum and then recharging SLOWLY. Good chargers have automatic programs for this. Depletion, even when not connected to anything, depends on the battery type. A NiCad looses approx. 1% per month, NiMh and LiPos considerably less but still some depending on the internal resistance of the pack. Better quality (higher price) should mean lower internal resistance and less/slower natural depletion. Avoid cheapo 'no names'. A pic of the battery would be more use than one of the RX😉 Cheers Doug 😎

JOINING BATTERY & RECEIVER CABLE by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 6 months ago
Hi Les, then I assume that you need something like this harness with JR/Hitec male & female plug/socket. This one also has a third plug for connecting the battery to a charger when the switch is in the off position. DON'T use this feature if you are using a LiPo battery!! There are several other versions without this third plug available here I guess the RX battery is a fairly small NiMH and also has the JR type plug. BTW: something to check before switching on- Does your speed controller have a BEC circuit? If so it supplies the RX as well so you don't need an RX battery at all. Or doesn't your yacht have any auxiliary motor and ESC? Happy sailing, Cheers Doug 😎 Looking forward to the video of the insulting tape 😁😉 or is that what I keep seeing on the news with Mr T??

2017 Regatta Report by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 7 months ago
Hi Dave, harsh? It just doesn't work! All you get is the Adobe logo! The site actually says "Upload photos / files"! pdf is a file, and yes you are correct - PORTABLE. QED. Several of us have fallen into this trap. It would have been so much easier for me to have given Marky the manual for the RC set I suggested to him as a rookie. Re THE PICS; I was also wondering about it being a liberty ship cos it's not quite right for an auxiliary dry goods supply ship or oiler. After a period of monsoon rain we now have around 30°, get a lot done outside until evening, then the infamous Bavarian thunderstorms start! 🤔 Just had another one 😡 I used to tell people in the office "I don't want to hear any more crap about English weather! While we have floods my mother has a garden hose ban and brown lawn"! (Ich will kein Scheiß mehr über Englisches Wetter hören! Während wir Überflutungen haben hat meine Mutter Gartenschlauchverbot und braune rasen!) 😭 Glue 'N Glaze and other goodies arrived today 😊 Busy days ahead 😉 Cheers Doug 😎

battery charging by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 7 months ago
Hi Roy, Like I already said in similar threads; pay a bit more for major producers, like Panasonic as you mentioned, and you are more likely to get what you paid for. No names are always a gamble. May be a super start-up, may be a 'let's cash in band wagon jumper! Whoever the 'supplier' is a relatively small number of manufactures are behind them. Yer pays yer money and yer takes yer choice! Personally, for the bigger, more expensive anyway, drive batteries I go for a supplier with reputation and known sources and reliable recourse without questions if you are not satisfied. For the little, cheaper, accus. for my Plastic Magic and auxiliary functions I am more inclined to experiment, log the results (manually!) and adjust future purchases accordingly. Regarding your super duper data logger; how has really it helped you? I used them often in my professional life, mostly as chief of the Rank Telecomm personal radio test department in the 70s and 80s, but now I don't need to sit in front of the PC analysing such data for hours. Time I could better spend building, sailing or solving other more interesting problems. Without appropriate analysis algorithms data loggers are useless. I have a thermocouple add-on for my multimeter which tells me if a particular cell is overheating compared to the rest. (The finger tip test usually agrees with the thermocouple!) This gives me a more useful indication than lots of abstruse graphs which you then have to interpret correctly. The money this cost you might have been better invested in a better charger as Dave M has already advised. I repeat what I said in the thread Dave mentioned: if I note that an accu. has a weak cell I degrade it to non-essential functions, nothing needed to bring the boat home! Each to his own; if you want to spend your time pondering over dubious statistics carry on and good luck! Personally I think Life's too short to waste on such things! If it woiks, don't fix it. If it don't woik fix or replace it, but don't waste time on bait digging when you could be fishing! Forgive me if I'm insulting your intelligence, for all I know you may also have 40 years professional experience in electronics. Let go! Cheers Doug 😎

Tank Steering by robbob Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 7 months ago
Hi All The Turnigy/Flysky iA6 are amazingly good value systems but did you know that they can be upgraded to full 10 channel operation! You will need to buy a new 10 channel RX for about £15: And a cable to go from your computer USB port to the connector on the back of the TX for less than £3: And then the firmware update from this site: There are also some YouTube videos to guide you through the upgrade process. This is one of a number of them on YouTube. I have bought the bits but not got round to doing the upgrade yet but apparently it is a very popular mod that allows you to assign a separate auxiliary channel to each of the switches and knobs. Robbob.

Experimemtal by tysonyoung Petty Officer   Posted: 9 months ago
[Score: 5/10] 72" Experimemtal Capable of 11mph and a runtime of 120mins Powered by Lead Acid (12v) 7Amp/h Batteries - Comments: Ebay Purchase. Originally a test tank model. Pumped water ballast no rudder or keel. Now fitted with lead fin ballast plus 2 7ah gel cells. and auxiliary motor. Sailing rig "A" class . 72in long 32 in beam .Hull strip wood deck fibre board. Sail winch and heavy duty rudder servo fitted. Design guess work !! Note picture of setting up rudder. 3 years work.

Shelduck by muddy Captain   Posted: 10 months ago
Continuing on - Grease up the prop shaft. Finalise the rigging. Another Radio check, with auxiliary motor, then disaster, Lost the hatch top, searched for 1 and 1/2 hours, no where to be found, Out came the saw and we has another cutting session and added some veneer, all was well.

Koh-i-Noor by ads90 Commander   Posted: 10 months ago
Purchased on well known auction site. Boat very dusty/dirty but sound. It is from a Robbe kit that was around about 10 years ago and has timber decking, built-in auxiliary motor, navigation lights, etc. A deep clean followed by a re-paint of the superstructure, rub the decking down and varnish, followed by a complete rub down and re-paint of the hull brought her back to a fine yacht. She is about 40 inches in length and sails beautifully and has great presence on the water.

Koh-i-Noor by ads90 Commander   Posted: 10 months ago
[Score: 9/10] 40"/4000g Koh-i-Noor Single Propellor (3 Blade 30mm) Geared to a Robbe (3 Blade) Powered by NiMH (7.2v) 3Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through Hitec Gold (10Amps) ESC - Comments: I bought this yacht via a well known auction website. It was owned by an old gent who had passed away and was covered in dust and the ABS white hull had yellowed with age. I cleaned the yacht up, rubbed the timber decks down and varnished them, re-painted the superstructure, rubbed down the hull and spayed the hull a grey/brown colour. It came complete with auxiliary motor, batteries, sail winch servo, ESC and navigation light switching unit. The yacht sails perfectly and looks great on the water. A real bargain buy.

Gusty Cat (ex Lady Daphne) by tomarack Commander   Posted: 10 months ago
I like Douglas Adams books. ..(and Terry Pratchett too) But I was most attracted to Gusty Cat ... So.. Model of thames barge , build according to modified plans of sb Lady Daphne in scale 1:28 (length cca 1 meter ). it will be again a model with an auxiliary motor, staysail class. I am currently grinding the laminate hull with several layers of putty. It is an ungrateful job.