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>> Home > Tags > auxiliary

auxiliary
auxiliaryman
auxiliary
Furled sails powered yacht with inboard motor by Joe727 Captain   Posted: 19 days ago
Ron, My gaff rigged cutter has a auxiliary motor and it works great. I can take some photos and get you some information motor and prop and on how I did it. What size is your Gypsy? Joe

Brixham trawler IBEX by sam Petty Officer   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi again, To remind you - I'm about to start a build of Cariad - about a meter long fiberglass hull made by Chris Wynn-Brown. Selecting the auxiliary motor I'm looking at a m500 but any thoughts about the prop used. Thinking 2 blade fairly small, 25mm. Not needed for speed, just to get to shore if the wind dies. And originally auxiliary motors/props would have been small. Does this sound right? Sam

HMS BRAVE BORDERER by RHBaker Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Finally the new brass propellers arrived, delayed about a month in one of Canada's regular postal disruptions. After minor modifications to the boss profile (the brass are more streamlined and thus longer than nylon) to give clearance with the rudder leading edges, they were easily installed. Could now refit the electrical equipment previously removed to get access to the shaft couplings. Inevitably took the opportunity to make “improvements”, so then could not get anything to work! After much frustration determined the problem was not from my improvements, but from the cheap and nasty slide switches provided with ESCs. These must have got damp during the test runs and corroded internally. Suggest when using these switches they be consigned to the garbage and replaced with proper toggle ones. Had decided to use the centre brushed motor/propeller for manoeuvring and low speed operation and then the outer brushless for high speed. Brushless ESCs do not modulate smoothly and motor operation is erratic. This was particularly evident when going from forward to reverse and vice versa. Using a lever control Tx, it was also easy to inadvertently operate the brushless control along with the brushed making the model response unpredictable. After some thinking, decided to insert a small relay into each of the white signal wires for the brushless motor ESCs. These relays would be controlled by a RC switch operated by another channel on the Rx. Hoping this way the brushless motors could be switched on and off whenever desired. The two relays would retain the ESCs as separate circuits and avoid any interference between them. The idea worked, can now operate the brushed motor confidently knowing the brushless will not be inadvertently triggered. This means low speed manoeuvers can be gently undertaken using the modulation and control ability of the brushless motors and, by selecting the auxiliary control, can add the high speed capability of the brushless. Am also hoping that when the Li-Pos trigger the low voltage cut-outs in the ESCs, this will retain a “get-home” facility on the brushed motor as that ESC operates independently. Much to look forward to when next on the water.

Gusty Cat by tomarack Commander   Posted: 2 months ago
[Score: 5/10] 39"/7000g Gusty Cat Single Propellor (3 Blade 35mm) Powered by Lead Acid (12v) 2Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through HK ESC - Comments: Gusty Cat is model of Thames sailing barge staysail class with auxiliary motor (no bowsprit)

Brixham trawler IBEX by sam Petty Officer   Posted: 2 months ago
Edward, I'm going to cast a bulb which gives me some tolerance in positioning it on the keel to help with the final trim. Probably make the keel from two sheets of balsa with a central threaded rod screwed and epoxied to the bulb. But that's for a later stage, right now I want to build the shaft into the hull before fitting the deck. Are you fitting an auxiliary motor? if so what sort of motor is most suitable? Quite looking forward to starting but likely to hafe to wait until after Christmas - work intervienes Thanks Sam

Sterling Yacht America by Mikep Commander   Posted: 5 months ago
Sterling Yacht America 51 1/2” long 8 1/2” beam 41” high. Model was built from kit has auxiliary electric power and Futaba sail wench servo. Model weighs 11 lbs and has a removable 2 lb. keel weight.

Emma C Berry Schooner by Mikep Commander   Posted: 5 months ago
Very nicely done l have built two Emma C Berry’s one free sail the other r/c with auxiliary electric motor the both sail nicely. Sterling also produced the Yacht America in the same scale size as the Emma C Berry. I have that as well set up with r/c and auxiliary power. I’ve raced them against each other about equal in speed. Both have removable keels.

upgrading Turnigy i6 to 10 channels by robbob Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 6 months ago
I finally got around to upgrading my Turnigy i6 system from 6 channels to 10 channels today.😁 Happily the firmware update went like a dream and I was able to install a new 10 channel rx in my RAF Crash Tender and then reprogramme the new auxiliary channels to the functions I need. And of course a long press on the exit button saves all the settings properly.....as we all know now 👍 😁 This has freed-up the previous six channel receiver which I now need for the new boat project which is now well under way. Robbob.

Lifeboat and Davit Completed! by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 6 months ago
With difficulty Ed, and lots of swearing in as many languages as I could remember 😡 They're made of a silvery metallic thread from the ladies dress making department! Got some funny looks (and some intriguing ones😁) while nosing around in there! They have a tendency to sag when the weather is hot, like now, they are pretty limp right now 🤔 At the top they are knotted and gluper sued to a ring of the same stuff around the stack. The eye bolts in the deck are just made of tinned copper wire glued into the deck. The eyes were formed around the nose of a small pair of circlip pliers. When the wires sag I can tighten them (up to a point!) by tilting the eye bolts further out. The little switches are rated 240V 5A or 10A and are for main power, auxiliary power and an ON/OFF/ON for Charge/OFF/Run. Got them from Radio Rim, the predecessor to Conrad, here in Munich. They're still around - the switches I mean 😉 At first I had them in a Ready Ammo Box on the Flak Gun Deck. But that needed a plugged connection under the removable deck. So I quickly changed that to under the engine room vent as in the pics. The box you can still see between the 20mm's. Shame about Radio Shack🤔, spent ages in their store in Garden City Mall Roosevelt Field (where Charlie Lindbergh took off from), on Long Island many years ago. Came home with boxes of 'Stuff' 😁 Cheers, Doug 😎

Sterling Emma C Berry by Mikep Commander   Posted: 6 months ago
Model is 49” long and with ballast keel added weighs 17 lbs. hull is covered with 2 layers of 2 oz. cloth fiberglass cloth and painted with Krylon spray can paint. Hitec sail winch servo for main sail and standard servo for jib. Model has auxiliary 6 volt electric power to compincate for my sailing ability’s and wind conditions. Sails are Mylar.

Emerald - "Round the Word" ocean racing yacht. by East-RN Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 6 months ago
Purchased new in kit form, from Robbe. 1998. Specifications:- Overall length: 1380mm. Overall beam: 360 mm. Draught: 300 mm. Mast height: 1800 mm. Overall height: 2200 mm. Standard sail area: 80 square dm. Sail area with Genoa: 94 square dm. Total displacement: 12 kg. Ballast: 8 kg. Scale: 1:10 Control Robbe Futaba F14 Marine transmitter / receiver. Channel 1 - Rudder servo. Channel 2 - Spare. Channel 3 - Genoa sail servo. Genoa switch module - fitted between the stick potentiometer and the transmitter channel 3 Socket. (Reverses the Genoa sail servo for Port or Starboard tack.) Channel 4 - Main sail servo. Channel 5 - Auxiliary 3 position switch - up position. Channel 6 - Auxiliary 3 position switch - down position. Receiver channel 5 - Mono Memory relay module. To drive the Blister motor out, to raise the Genoa Sail Clew. Receiver channel 6 - Mono Memory relay module. To drive the Blister motor in, to tighten the Genoa Sail Clew. Recently recovered from the back of the shed, where it has been in hibernation. Now I am retired and have some free time, it is under a review and refurbishment. New paint on the deck and upper hull (above the waterline). Solid state relay modules added, to replace the micro switches, operated from a cam on a servo (replacing analogue channel 2 with on/off channels 5 and 6). Pictures show the sea trials after the 10 year hibination. The Genoa Module had failed in the carbon potentiometers. No replacement available, so found a local electronics repairers, who changed the potentiometers for £10.00. The carrying cradle was designed to hold the sails, and secure the yacht while rigging at the waters edge. Also acts as a dry dock, while working inside the hull. When the repaired module is fitted, and the Genoa sail is operational, I will post detailed video of the Genoa sail winch and Blister motor and their operation while sailing. Genoa Sail Pictures added.

advise required by kmbcsecretary Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 8 months ago
Just to throw a little spanner in the works teejay if your thinking of adding auxiliary's to your boats later as you progress, I use the turnigy 9x radio from hobbyking now and for the money mate I can't fault the radio and the receiver's are cheap and 10 model memory . Ron

H.M.S. BRAVE BORDERER by RHBaker Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 9 months ago
Once the rudder, propeller and shafts were installed, the position of the motors could be established. A light aluminium bracket to hold all three was fabricated and bonded to the hull. Due to the high speed capability of the brushless motors, particular attention was paid to alignment. Also kept to the shortest prop. shafts that could be fitted to avoid whipping. Although the motor type might change, whatever is best will require a sound electrical installation as the current requirements for each brushless motor could reach 50 Amps. Wired each motor and ESC separately with its own dedicated fuse to give the maximum system protection. There is an extra fuse section allocated for auxiliary circuits, such as a cooling water pump and lights. Will try the original planned layout of 3 x 2835 motors with 30mm propellers and a 2S Li-Po battery first. Am hoping the reduced voltage will also make these motors more tractable. For the test program the three ESCs will be each controlled from an individual Rx channel. Once the final layout is determined, a more sophisticated and flexible control system can be installed. To minimize ballast, particularly around the stern, the battery will be housed as far into the bow as possible. After the test runs the final battery type, size and location can be established. To assess performance, hope to try both 2 and 3S Li-Po batteries. Planning to reduce heat build up by fitting cooling water jackets to the motors, these are easiest to instal at this stage so the wiring or mounts are not disturbed in the future. Have not decided the layout for the water circuit yet, but this easily can be added later. All that is needed now is the ice to melt off our local lakes so tests can commence.

MTB by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 year ago
Hi Rowen, we're not splitting hairs! Together we are getting to the roots👍 I had also noticed the slight differences in superstructure; especially the aft part and the bridge top/screen. But I noticed these variations also in the Danish and other variants. Didn't want to overload the post with these as I thought it was long enough already😲 Seems some variations were introduced depending on the base variant it was ordered as MTB or MGB (most of which still had at least two torpedoes!). Since the Brave class were apparently very expensive to produce (which is why only two were built not the planned six?) the later variants were based on a cheaper export version, 'Felicity' type I think they were called. They were a little smaller but with similar performance and firepower to the Braves, some with two Perseus turbines instead of two but most with three as in the Braves, and cheaper to build with wood on alu frames instead of all metal. Usually classed as FPBs or FACs depending on armament. Summary; The Perkasa was not a generic class but a specific four ship class for the RMN. Basis for the hulls and superstructure design was the same as the Braves and Felicity but some 'poetic license' was taken with subsequent export order with variations even within classes. Comparing available (to me) pics again I now tend to agree with you that the rounded bridge of the model is more like the Perkasa class than the box-like bridge of Swordsman. 😲 BTW: In 1971 the RMN Perkasas were upgraded with SS12 missiles so there's another interesting variant for the aficionados 😉 Credentials: was not in the RAF (but Dad was!), but I worked with the RMN and the Surabaya shipyard (and various other bidders) on the design of the COMMS systems for the replacements for the Perkasa class and then their replacements, up to the current NGPV-2 (New Generation Patrol Vessel-Batch 2). Interesting work and people. Also did some work on their new frigates and an auxiliary in the nineties. One thing I always did before embarking on such projects was to research the background of the navy involved, operational area and requirements and also the potential shipyard partners. Part of establishing confidence and rapport. 😉 Anyway - whatever; model-wise - if it looks right it probably is right! Main thing is fun planning, building and above all sailing, exchanges like this help us all a lot I believe. All the best Doug 😎

Working Radar for Many Scales by bilzin Commander   Posted: 1 year ago
Building a German Police launch right now and thought that the radar scanner components were a bit 'heath robinsonish', so decided to see if I could make an alternative unit. Photo 1 shows the Radar scanner parts obtained from MMB (ebay) for the princely sum of ONE POUND !!!!! plus 28p postage, and construction is of a medium soft resin that isn't prone to breaking or splitting when shaped or drilled, and a short length of 2mm brass rod becomes the drive shaft. This particular unit has a 44mm sweep bar but there are many other sizes available Photo 2 shows the drive motor which operates on voltages between 1.5 and 6v, ideal for the control driver which is the next item. Available from saih.tan on Ebay for under 7 pounds, and if the motor is mounted on a removable bracket as I have done, this unit can be used in several models without the need for major 'surgery', the motor and radar shaft being connected with a short piece of rubber tubing Photo 3 shows the receiver driven radar motor speed control which operates from an auxiliary receiver channel and takes the motor voltage from the main receiver supply, thus obviating the need for a separate supply and switch. This unit is available from www.mr-rcworld.co.uk and costs a staggering 14.50 post free sheesh ! I must add here that I am in NO way connected to any of the suppliers mentioned here, but just though some other modellers may be interested in 'home brew' accessories and suchlike.