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Ahoy Mateys, U48,this ones taken me ages due to a brief hiatus brought on by a touch of black death I caught. Anyway another bin salvaged effort made entirely from scrap tin and alarm clocks. No ballast tank in this one,the smaller boats don't need them and dynamic dive on planes alone,or just surface run. Cheers Neil www.mclarenclockworksubmarines.com
I have a hankering to build an LST and although I could probably build a reasonable representation from photos, I would like to get hold of some plans. There seem to be plans available for the smaller landing craft like LCTs and LCMs but nothing for LSTs, the only ocean going landing craft of WW2. Over a thousand were built, all in the USA, despite being a British conception, only 113 were actually built for the Royal Navy. They were 328 ft long with 50 ft beam and were fitted with ballast tanks, similar to submarine types to enable them to run well up onto a beach to unload their cargo of tanks and other vehicles. They only needed 3ft6ins water under the bow to beach. Doors opened and a ramp came down. Really they were the forerunners of the RoRo ferry. My interest in building one is because my late father, a Lieutenant Commander, RNR, captained LST 368. all through the North Africa, Sicily and Italian campaigns. Would be pleased to hear if anyone can help me locate plans. Cheers, Nerys.
It’s been a while since the boat had it’s maiden voyage on the lake at St. Albans and I’m pleased to report that it looks really good in the water and goes like stink if you open up the throttle. Sadly I still don’t have any decent video of the boat yet as I can’t film and drive the thing at the same time, but I do have some static wide shots from my GoPro. When I do the video I’ll ask a cameraman mate to do the honours, maybe I’ll put the GoPro on the bow and then the stern to get some low action shots…the storyboard is already building in my head!! These early runs were great as they showed up some minor problems that needed attending to. I found that it needed ballasting slightly as it was not sitting on the waterline evenly from side to side so I flattened out some old lead water pipe and cut it into small sections so that I could add ballast incrementally. I did this in the ‘domestic test tank’ and once I was happy the lead pieces were fixed in place inside the hull with some super strong double sided tape. The ESC needed a little programming adjustment because I had forgotten to set the low battery level point to ‘off’ as I am using NiMh batteries and not LiPo’s , that was the cause of the short initial run time on the first outing…..DOH !! The batteries are now held in place by Velcro straps on some bearers that I added, otherwise a battery change involved cutting cable ties and replacing them at the lakeside…not very practical. The volt/amp/watt meter is also now on a proper bracket so that the display is more readable. I have also changed the charging connection from the nasty Tamiya connector to a nice little panel mount XT 60 connector that HobbyKing sell, it comes with a handy blanking plug that I have drilled for a retaining cord. I have also finally got around to upgrading the firmware on my Turnigy i6 radio to the 10 channel version so that I can assign the lighting to the switches properly and have the rotation of the searchlight on one of the two rotary knobs. I can use the old 6 channel RX in the new boat….blog coming soon.
Hi Haig, you're right 👍 My Akula II is only half the size of your boat at about 35" x 4 1/2" beam. So only one 750ml ballast tank. Trimming could be tricky! Although I also bought the Engel Pitch Control module. The tube is going to be pretty well packed but sliding it out will make servicing and adjustment easier (I hope😁) With the Akula's typical USSR enclosed bridge there's not much scope for crew. Could put one lookout with his head stuck out of the top hatch I suppose. Hmm! Where to get 1/125 people? As for the 1/72 U26 crew; I've got a deck gun crew set, a CO and tower lookouts & Flak gunner set, and of course I can't resist the guy peeing overboard - must remember to keep him on the lee side 😲 Happy diving👍 Cheers, Doug 😎 BTW: I believe there is a mod kit for working periscopes, must look into that. Would add a little more interest.
There are 2 ballast tanks 750ml each - allowing nearly 1.5kg of ballast. I have only fixed half the crew to the boat, and only some key ones in the conning tower. You cannot see them when at a distance and certainly not underwater, so a calculated view. They do stand out on the photos so it looks more realistic. I think the newer tube internals allow for smaller subs but there is hardly any space left within this model.
Hi Steve Plenty of suggestions being made. I use waterjets and you should be aware of the max revs quoted by the manufacturer. You exceed this figure at your own risk. I agree with the previous comments regarding brushless delivering far more power if powered by Lipo. Ballast is a crucial part of the equation and the Sea Breacher has a large volume of air in its hull which makes it very buoyant. Like a sub perhaps some form of ballast tank that can be vented may be worth considering. You really need to speak with someone who is into submersibles as they have the experience and knowledge of how best to proceed. The Model Boat Convention is on next weekend and they sometimes have submariner modellers in attendance. Good luck Dave
No probs, its only a basic single ballast tank and motor setup some of my other stuff ends up looking like the engine room of a type 21. theres lots more detail on my site but heres a few internals of different boats ive done. cheers Neil
I have seen this done a few times online and figured it would be a quick turn around; I was wrong. Every time I think I have it licked, another problem arises. I am at two pumps, one motor, two micro switches and three servos. I do not have batteries or cooling for the motor figured out. But when I get tired of my scratch builds I go back to this. I did my math and six vessels await my attention plus these two fine examples. Then, I start looking at plans for another one. I may have a problem. Latest picture is the ballast tank sealed with fittings.
U35... Finally done! 2 Months this one took! 3 Ballast Tanks Clockwork Timer for the compressed air system clockwork motor for the coaxial contra rotating tandem props. Maximum time on the bottom 1 hour. clockwork tinplate submarines are great fun!
[Score: 9/10] 27"/4000g Nortlight Clyde Puffer Single Propellor (3 Blade 35mm) Geared to a MFA (3 Blade) Powered by Lead Acid (6v) 4Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through Viper Marine 15 (15Amps) ESC - Comments: The Clyde Puffer is a Caldercraft kit of 1:32 scale. It is a representative model of a typical small coaster from the Western Isles of Scotland, known to many ship lovers as a 'Clyde Puffer'. It has a GRP hull which has full external detail, riveting, strakes etc. and a plywood superstructure and decking plus over 200 white metal fittings. As usual for Caldercraft you need to have your thinking cap on as the A0 plan and the 'instruction book' do not match up but of course they do expect you to have a little bit of experience in model building. It has taken me about 6 months to build, but working on and off over this time. It has a large hull which is easy to house the motor, ESC, RC and batteries, etc. (I installed 2 lead acid 6 volt batteries, one on each side amidships) which gives stability and ballast. Being a large deep hull it needs a lot of ballast, even in its short length. I have only tested her in the big white test tank at home so do not know how it will perform on our lake. I have sailed her many times on our lake and she certainly sails well. I installed an electronic switch for the navigation lights which gives a good effect during the darker afternoons/evening and also fitted a steam whistle sound unit.
Finished the wiring, major ballasting and superstructure, but without finishing details. Will do final trim ballasting on open water; my indoor test tank is too small for a 48" long model! Have decided to work on the mast next. The second picture shows a joint at the rear of the deckhouse roof. Originally thought it would be ideal if the whole wheelhouse could be made removable, but could not hide the front joint very well and decided this would be a better approach. The wheelhouse is thus now fastened to the lower superstructure. Through the removable roof section access to the interior light and the radar scanner motor can be gained. The second picture also shows the motor driveshaft extending upwards through the roof. Plan is to extend the shaft up to the platform on which the scanner sits and then use gears from an old clock to offset the drive forward and position the scanner in the correct location.
HI xtramaths, thanks for your comments glad you are inspired. Several additions have been added since launch date.. one in particular is the ballast. Still adding all the time, latest, pump six gallons of water into tank to sink stern 2" open stern door and bring out two landing craft on separate controllers
It looks like a lovely model , pity the photo wasn't three times the size. There's no way this can be determined by a forum post. Every model Is different: Current waterline determined by materials used for construction and equipment on board. The only way to do this Is Install battery's, fuel etc., and place the model In a tank filled with water. Then place small ballast blocks In various places on the deck to bring the model to the correct heel and waterline. Take the model from the water and glue or secure the ballast blocks In the hull In exactly the same Internal position. To make this accurate, for models running on liquid fuel, the tanks should be at the balancing point, not to far forward or aft. This will allow the model to rise out of the water correctly as the tanks are drained.
Hi, I am about to build the Imara with a finished weight of 19kg. Your choice of water ballast Is of great Interest to me as I will not be capable of lifting mine when finished. If you are able to email me some details of how you constructed your ballast tanks, It would be greatly appreciated. kind regards Peter email: (PM Only - Admin)