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I also tend to use Sla batteries a model this size should easily be able to take a 12v 7ah battery, some of my models I have to use 2 batteries, 1for ballast or in parallel to give longer running time. The 660 motor should be fine, what size prop are you going to use. Cheers Colin.
HI Ron, I have a similar one, very useful in the colder months, stops the wind on your hands. As a by product it keeps the transmitter batteries warmer, so they last longer, got to workout how to keep my motor battery warm to get longer sailing times!!!
I couldn't find a way of ordering different colours, but Paypal playing up messed it all up for us anyway. I'm not a patient man so said to my wife, "sod em , get it from ebay" It'll turn up when it wants to. I don't do much on boats in the Winter, but I must remember to cycle my batteries somehow or they'll die. I hate working models! Martin
Hi, I'm in the process of building the same Dumas Cobra. How do you keep the motor cool? Is there any way I could get pictures of the motor, wiring set up and how you placed the batteries in the boat. I retired in 2004 and started the model at that time. I've been working on it since I retired.
As Westie said don't use a Forstner it will take out too much at once. Use the 8 mm evenly both sides. Go gently.👍👍 Also see if any ballast has been added inside. This was often done to reduce heeling . It defeated it's own object as reducing the freeboard still put the lee rail under when heeling. Also what batteries are you using? A change to lighter ones may help. Lipos maybe but they may reduce duration.Nimhs may be a compromise. Or the ABC types All this assuming you are using R/c.
Morning, Doug. What a gent and a Boy Scout you are, sir. This is all new to me. My old video camera was just that, a video camera as of old. Perfectly fine till the batteries died and then I could only use it on the power pack indoors. It looked like a cine camera! This is a Praktika Luxmedia WP240. It says it has HD video, 720p on the box lid, whatever that means! Thanks for any help, old chum. Martin
Hi John. Interested to know what kind of offers you have had. Boaty, yes Veron did an RTTL Rescue Target Towing Launch, they featured in the black and white film ' The sea shall not have them'. This though is their fast patrol boat. I believe it's called a 'Trinity class patrol boat and some were supplied to the Trinidad and Tobago navy. You will sometimes see the model bares the name Coureland Bay'. I have seen photos on this website of her. They were built by Vosper Thornycroft in Portsmouth. If I was building her I would put two meaty brushless motors n her which should bring a sprite lay planing performance. I have fitted two Graupner 900s in mine, which give her an excellent turn of speed. These are brushed motors but are not available any more. The hull space is vast so easily accommodates batteries with space for sound system working radar etc. Regards Kevin
Your more than welcome TJ. Re paragraphs etc; was a well meant 'Word to the Wise', just to make your interesting contributions easier to read. 😉 Keep up the good work👍 Which configuration did you decide on in the end? On my single screw boats, like my Sea Scout, I tend to just use the BEC from the ESC and no separate RX battery. On my multi screw ships, the majority actually, from two to four screws (PTB to HMS Belfast cruiser) I always use a separate RX battery. On the basis that I reckon that the drive battery already has enough to do 😉 So I use 4.8 or 6V NiMh batteries of around 1500 to 2000mAh. Always put a switch between the batt and the RX. Also a switch and a fuse, approx 5A lower than the ESC max current rating, between the drive battery and the ESC(s). All the best, Doug 😎
The TIO has a safety low battery voltage cut-off for LIPO batteries whereas the Viper 15 does not have this facility. If you are confident in not running down your LIPO battery to below a 'safe limit' then you should be OK to just use the ordinary Viper.
Hi martin, yeah stuff comming from places far and wide are a pain in the stern. Bullet connections (the type they use on cars) are ok not sure if used on greater current and amps they wont melt. I built more aeroplanes with electric power trains and l found that if l stayed with one or two types of connections it was much easier to keep a little collection of spares. EC3 and EC5 are the Blue coloured plastic/brass bullet plugs you can buy. have a look on Hobbyking web site at lipo batteries it will show you all the connections that are out there. jim dogge
Members might like to view my experimental solar powered "BOAT " More like an aircraft carrier !! No batteries carried even for the radio. Brushless motor running from 24 cells giving 12volts. Slightest shadow will stop it.The panel i made myself by buying individual solar cells from Ebay and soldering them up.The cells are sandwiched between glass which makes it quite heavy and next project will have no glass but the cells are VERY fragile.
Although have modeling experience, all my earlier vessels used brushed motors. This was my first brushless. The model is now running well, but thought, for the benefit of others considering this transition to summarize my experiences. Must stress the performance of a brushless motor is incredible when compared to a similar sized brushed; for a vessel such as this they are almost obligatory. They are worth the trouble! Had been advised that the best powertrain installation for a 37” Brave Borderer is either a single or twin screws, not three. This was good advice! Much heartache could have been avoided with a single screw installation. Unfortunately, that is not the correct layout for a scale builder. Tried three major powertrain iterations, with several variations within each group. All motors are 28mm O/D : 1) The original installation used 3 x 4600kV inrunner motors with 30 A ESCs. Had bought these items used. The motors were too fast and had little torque. The ESCs also did not have adequate capacity. The result was erratic performance, a high fuse failure rate and the eventual failure of an ESC and motor Picture #1. 2) First upgrade was to 2 x 2400kV inrunner motors, using 50A capacity ESCs. The centre shaft was fitted with a brushed motor. This combination did work, although suffered greatly from motor “squeal” and “stutter”. Eventually a motor burnt out and failed. Picture #2 3) Upgrade two: retained the 50 A ESCs, with 2 x 2600 kV outrunner motors, again with the brushed inner shaft motor. Reprogrammed the ESCs to soft start parameters. Much better, performance and reliability can now be considered acceptable. The squeal and stutter are largely corrected It has justified the challenges of getting here. Picture #3 Have tried both 2 and 3S Li-Po batteries, suggest use the minimum voltage needed to achieve the desired performance. Higher voltages translate into faster response and performance, but with less control modulation. The model can be easily overpowered. In summary, from my experience. For a marine application; chose low (under 2000kV) kV rating motors with an outrunner layout wherever possible (produce more torque than inrunners). Use ESCs with a ratings comfortably in excess of the motor ratings, fit fuses to supplement any ESC protections. Ensure the ESCs are programmed to “soft start” characteristics. Also, the obvious check of making sure shaft alignment is correct is even more important with the higher speed capability of brushless motors. In spite of the trails, cost and tribulations of getting here. Have enjoyed the challenge and the end result does justify the means. Also, do not finally fit the deck until you are satisfied with the performance. Making the changes described with limited access would have been very difficult and frustrating.
Building a scale plastic model like the Schnellboot does involve a lot of creativity and imagination mainly around how to convert it to a working model. Initial stage is how do you get the motors, radio e.s.c and batteries to fit in and to add to this which component of the superstructure is going to be removable for access to inside the hull. Further matters include access to the motor and other working parts should there ever be a failure and need to replace the faulty part. Desired outcome is that you manage it without causing any damage. Greatest reward is at the lakeside when onlookers admire your work of art and are even more surprised how well it sails. Boaty😎😁
Hi John, think somehow you've got the wrong end of the stick!🤔 All BECs are Battery Eliminator Circuits of one sort or another. The objective is to eliminate the separate receiver battery, sometimes necessary purely to save weight and/or space in small models. If you do that then the RX power must come from the main drive battery, which then has to supply all RX functions; servos, switched lights etc etc. Personally, if the boat / ship can carry it, I prefer to use drive batteries for just that and use separate battery for the RX and special functions. Some of which, like smokers for instance can be current gobblers. Cheers, Doug 😎 PS If you ever find a way of eliminating all batteries and still get the RX to work and the boat to move PATENT IT QUICK!! 😁 Cheers, Doug 😎 Hmmm! Maybe a raft towed behind with an array of hi-current solar panels!? 😁😁 Years ago in my work in NAVAL COMMS systems I once suggested to a shipbuilder, who was complaining about the number of antennas needed, to put some of them on a raft behind the ship 😉 Now they are doing just that with antenna buoys from submerged submarines! No credits 🤔 ... SIGH 😉
[Score: 8/10] 33"/3700g "Maureen Lee" Capable of 3mph and a runtime of 90mins Single Propellor (3 Blade 30mm) Direct Drive to a 550 type (3 Blade) Powered by NiMH (7.2v) 3Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through Unknown ESC - Comments: The “Maureen Lee” started out as a Bristol Bay ready-to-run semi-scale model of a typical European fishing cutter. Many modifications were made to her to make her look like an old, worn-out fishing boat. Factory-installed switchable work and navigation lighting means that she can even be operated at night. A 550-size electric motor and metal propeller allow for ample power. A Bristol Bay model is supplied practically fully assembled… you need only mount the two masts and install the batteries. Numerous robust details make this model look great at home or on the water! Technical specifications: Hull length: 850 mm Width: 220 mm Overall height: 737 mm Total weight: 3650 g