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>> Home > Tags > batteries

battery life
battery mount
battery pack
battery power
battery voltage
Twin Esc/Mixer by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 days ago
Exactly Dave 👍 Several of us have extolled the virtues of separate Rx batteries. I feel I have more control over what happens when on start-up and testing. For testing I usually use a variable PSU anyway. I also prefer to use drive batteries for just that and not waste endurance supplying servos etc. Finally, for multi-channel setups and/or large servos, winches etc the BEC may simply not have sufficient current capacity. Cheers Doug (aka 'The red-lead snipper'😉)

Twin Esc/Mixer by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 days ago
Having looked at the P94 self build diagrams the two positive and negative leads are connected together on the circuit board. The positive leads are connected by a thin copper track which I suspect would suffer if two mismatched (voltage wise) batteries were connected to each positive lead. By using two sets of leads the wiring is kept to smaller diameter and matches the two power distribution boards by ACTION. The instructions do warn against using separate batteries and there is a wiring diagram showing both sets of leads joined and fed via one large fuse to the battery. However the diagram on the description page shows fuses on each red lead which should be ignored and probably accounts for any confusion regarding battery connections. There can be problems (some are incompatible systems) with 2.4 sets due to the delay in the signal establishing after the ESCs have self set and sometimes when the BEC voltage drops due to high current demands. This can be overcome by changing the chip to a non self setting version or disabling the onboard BEC and using a separate Rx battery. Personally I use a separate battery wherever possible.

Twin Esc/Mixer by saga32 Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 2 days ago
Mention was made earlier of the two sets of red and black wires being for separate batteries. The manual says "Do not under any circumstances connect a separate battery pack to each pair of red and black wires - it may seem logical but you will very probably do fatal damage to the P94" I would agree with the previous post from NPJ "slow down and read the manual" There's a lot in there. Hope your tug installation goes well

LiPo Batteries by rolfman2000 Admiral   Posted: 3 days ago
Thanks Dave M. That is a very useful webpage, which answers a lot of possible questions that most of us have from time to time. Thanks for sharing it. Best wishes, Dave W 😊

Twin motor control problem by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 days ago
Hi reilly, Possible, but I would only expect the motor load current to decrease the RX sensitivity if the battery is almost flat and the extra load pushes it below the failsafe voltage limit. John has already confirmed that the battery is/was fully charged. Cheers Doug 😎 PS testing without BEC is a good idea as it would confirm or eliminate the possibility that the RX supply voltage is collapsing and causing a Failsafe condition. I prefer separate RX batteries anyway, fewer surprises😲! Except in the smallest Plastic magic projects where weight is critical.

LiPo Batteries by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 days ago
Just found a very useful informative site that covers everything you need to know about LiPo batteries.

MFA TORPEDO 500 / BATTERY INFO by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 days ago
Hi al, jarvo's answer is more or less correct but not the whole story! Here is a reprint from my attempt to clarify various misunderstandings and misuse of terms related to batteries - usage and maintenance - posted to a thread "battery charging" you can find under 'General Sailing'. "Hi Both (and all other non-technical guys here!) (Dave_M please jump to the next post or topic!😉) To avoid further confusion amongst the non-technical members can we perhaps straighten out the technical terms involved in battery charging and use (strictly speaking the dimensions or quantities involved). mAh (milli-amphour) is a measure of the capacity of a battery: how many 1/1000 of an ampere (A) it can theoretically deliver in one hour, if in perfect fully charged condition and under perfect environmental conditions. (What you ain't never gonna get!) When the outside temperature drops so does the usable capacity 🤔 Charge and discharge rates are measured in ampere (A). under 1A the milliamp (1A/1000, unit mA) is usually used for convenience. Quality battery packs are marked on the case with maximum charge and discharge rates in A. Sometimes marked as xC/yC. xC is the MAX charge rate and means x times the nominal capacity/1000. yC is the MAX discharge rate (i.e. what your motors take) and often means y times the nominal capacity/1000. Sometimes the max discharge rate is given as a multiple of the max charge rate. See example in my photo. These are MAXIMUM warnings and NOT to be taken as the norm! See example in pic. Capacity 4000mAh = 4Ah, MAX charging current is 8A =2C, (4000/1000)x2. Half an hour charging gives then 8/2=4Ah. I would never ever charge at anywhere near this rate! Charging at 500mA (0.5A) for 8 hours (0.5Ax8h=4Ah) is perfectly adequate and much more gentle on the cells i.e. longer life 😉 MAX discharge current is given as 240A = 30 times max charge current or 60 times capacity in Ah.(4). If I used it at this rate it would probably be irreparably damaged (toasted) in just under a minute (0.9999r) 😡 If any Lixx pack gets HOT while charging or in use take it to recycling pronto, before it sets fire to your boat or workshop/house😡 ALWAYS MAKE CERTAIN THAT YOUR CHARGER IS SET FOR THE TYPE OF PACK YOU ARE USING, NicAD, NiMh, LiPo OR LiION etc (don't forget the balancer connection!). Sorry for teaching some 'grandmas' to suck eggs but having seen so many questions about battery charging and much misuse of the parameter units for batteries in the responses (as above) I felt it was time to clarify things for the non-technical among us, for their own safety and the health of their wallets!" Cheers Doug 😎

MFA TORPEDO 500 / BATTERY INFO by jarvo Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 days ago
The basic of C rating is charge and discharge. ie 2200 mah X 25 max discharge, dont charge above 1amp as it will shorten the battery life and if you are getting close to the 50amp discharge the cells wont last long. The watt meter is fitted in line from the batteries to check what power you are drawing when sailing so giving you an idea about run time. The voltage beepers are needed to protect the cells from being discharged to far, below 3.3 volts and the cells can die. They are fitted into the dallance lead of each battery. There is a deal on ebay for Flurion 3s 2200 lipos £12-99 each i have 4 in use in my RAF Fire Tender with twin 700BB turbo motors, get about 15 mins at full throttle Mark

MFA TORPEDO 500 / BATTERY INFO by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 days ago
Hi al, this is the sort of thing we mean - Not too expensive but can save a lot of expensive mistakes and misery! Used for checking before you get on the water as well as for testing batteries on charge and discharge. Cheers Doug 😎

MFA TORPEDO 500 / BATTERY INFO by Haverlock Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 days ago
put a watt meter on your shopping list please. They are not expensive and will give you an informed idea of the current drawn etc. Remember LIPO batteries should not be discharged below around 3.3V per cell else they DIE.

MFA TORPEDO 500 / BATTERY INFO by jarvo Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 days ago
Hi Mate, welcome it the forum, the motor and prop seem ok, a general rule of thumb is prop diameter less than the motor, so you should be ok with this. Your thoughts on batteries, a pair of 2s or 3s lipo's 2200mah in parallel should give you 30 - 40 mins runtime, more if you are kind with the throttle, remember that you must have access to remove the batteries for charging!!! you will also get a reasonable turn of speed but the hull design won't go fast, they are cruising hulls not deep V speed hulls, when testing check for heat either the motor or the ESC, show some pics and lets see how you are doing Mark

Twin motor control problem by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 days ago
Is the mixer connected to the rudder. When you test on the bench does it work OK if you move the rudder stick fully both ways?. I suspect the mixer is perhaps the culprit. What mixer unit are you using? What is your power set up re batteries? Are they all fully charged?

3 blades v 2 blades on air boat by Haverlock Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 5 days ago
get a watt meter they are cheap and you can read the current drawn at full revs ( although its not moving) this will give you an idea as to the run time of your battery and the capability of your ESC to handle the load. I think every one who uses electric motors and especially lipo batteries should have one!

First test run by jarvo Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 5 days ago
Hi Mate, allowing for the battery pack being slightly down, the boat is bows down, not allowing it to come up onto the plane, try moving the batteries back towards the stern Regards Mark

Huntsman 34 "John" by Novagsi0 Lieutenant   Posted: 5 days ago
First run on the water, was not pushing it just checking temps and drive. The batteries were at about 25% down on top speed when I decided to make a video. The Tornado 850 motor and 60A speed controller seem well suited to the job.