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>> Home > Tags > batteries

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batteries
Hovercraft by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 day ago
Many thanks Dave and Brian, I guess Brian's craft is much bigger and heavier than mine; 56x30 cm. Spec says weight 1.3kg with motors fitted but without batteries and RC gear. It came with a 9cm diameter 3 blade ducted fan, 13x? two blade thrust prop and a pair of 400 size brushed motors, the mountings for which limit me to 28/30mm diameter brushless. When I hauled the kit box down from an upper shelf to investigate I found the packing list and spares price list in both Deutschmark and Euro, i.e. circa 1999/2000!! Planning well ahead for the retirement 😉😉 In mine there are no rudders! The whole motor/prop mount is turned. Will see how it goes with that and maybe mod it later with rudders depending on how easy it is to control - OR NOT😲 many thanks for the tips 👍 Doug

Dumas 1203 Coast Guard Lifeboat (RNLI Waveney conversion) by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 days ago
The 12v I used was small and didn't last long. I see from your next post that you have decided to go brushless and LiPo and you won't be disappointed. The battery warning devices are essential for LiPo type batteries and I am sorry if I lead you to believe they were required for SLAs.

Dumas 1203 Coast Guard Lifeboat (RNLI Waveney conversion) by figtree7nts Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 days ago
Remember the batteries back then were very heavy! You might be able to go lipo! But that's a subject I'm not familiar with! You'll have to ask around!

Too Powerful Brushless ? by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 days ago
Graham That sounds much better and will move your boat at a very fast speed. I must reiterate my previous advice repeated by BOATSHED regarding the extra support for the prop shaft at each end and adjacent to the bearing. Unlike brushed motors, brushless accelerate to their KV rating at a very fast rate and if your installation is not solid (as concrete) you will experience all kinds of problems, all costly, and often terminal (personal experience confirms this). Finally do get a wattmeter and check the amps and wattage whist holding the boat in the water. If either are above the rating for the motor, ESC or battery you need to reduce the prop size. I can't emphasize this enough as the consequence can be an explosion on the water and total loss of the boat and all its equipment. Asw you have mentioned 10000 mA I assume you will be using two 5000Ma batteries in parallel. This is OK providing you use and electronic coupler between the batteries to disconnect a discharged battery to ensure no one battery discharges below the recommended value. These are not cheap and personally I would use one battery and change to a new battery when the first was depleted. I accept that if you are in a racing situation this may not be possible, but I suspect as a newbie you are using for pleasure purposes. I hope you will now be able to proceed to install the new motor and prop shaft and supports as suggested. Please keep us posted and I look forward to seeing your model on the water

Dumas 1203 Coast Guard Lifeboat (RNLI Waveney conversion) by Skydive130 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 days ago
Any ideas on batteries any ideas on batteries at all?

Hovercraft by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 5 days ago
Not sure exactly but I believe 45xx or similar probably 1800 or higher KV. 100 +amp ESCs and 5000Ma batteries 14.4v. Prop is a 3 blade 10". I'll check with Brian and correct my mistakes later.

VALIANT by Colin H. Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 6 days ago
[Score: 8/10] 48" VALIANT Capable of 4mph and a runtime of 90mins Single Propellor (4 Blade 70mm) Geared to a 540 (4 Blade) Powered by Lead Acid (12v) 14Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through MTroniks Viper marine (25Amps) ESC - Comments: This tug was built by a modeler in Bristol during the early 1960's it was given to me at the Abergavenny Steam and vintage show in 2016 by the makers grandson who told me it had been on display in his mums house from 1970 when his grandad died till 1987 when she died then put in his parents attic till it was given to me. it had a couple of holes in the hull and the upper works had been broken so required fixing. not having any pictures I used all the original bits that came with it so I hope it looks as it should. It's made mostly from balsa with some wooden bits and replacement planking from coffee stirrers otherwise all original. It requires 2 x 12v 7ah lead acid batteries and about 5 kilograms of ballast. (Silver Sand in 500grm packs). On the only test run I've managed to tow a 16 foot fishing boat with three men on my local fishing lake.

Too Powerful Brushless ? by reilly4 Commander   Posted: 11 days ago
Thanks Dave, Eventually we will have put together a body of knowledge that model boat builders can use with some certainty. At present the information is sketchy, hard to find and sometimes ambiguous. The motor designers and manufacturers have not been very helpful. For my La Combattante iii missile boat I used two Hobbyking Keda 720kV motors rated at 215 Watts and 19.3amps max. They were the first brushless motors I tried. I was not sure how many amps they would draw, so I connected an ammeter and fitted my video camera so it read the amps whilst operating. At full speed they used only 8 amps each. Each of the batteries is from 12V made from 9 x NiMH 9Ah D Cells. I easily get over an hour run time at good speed. The boat is 1605mm long so not small. This information may help someone.

Too Powerful Brushless ? by canabus Admiral   Posted: 12 days ago
Hi All I am using Hobbyking 3639-1100 and 3648-1450kv motors in that size boats(Sea Commander, Precedent Huntsman and SG&K Gentleman's Runabout). 60 Amp ESC with either 3 or 4S Lipo batteries. Props 2 blade 40mm 1.4 or 1.6 pitch. The motors are a straight change over and the only change to the ESC is the low voltage setting for the 3S and 4S batteries. Canabus

Affinity racing jacht by watson220 Lieutenant   Posted: 14 days ago
SPECIFICATION: Total lenght:650mm Beam:150mm Mast height :915mm Overal height: 1338mm RTR total weigh:1290g (without 4pcs AA batteries) Hull material Plastic Sail material : Mylar INCLUDED: *Completed hull with pre applied graphics. *Two milar film sail sets *Carbon fiber masts and booms ]2Rigs] *Zinc alloy ballast and aluminium alloy fin *Powerful sail winch *Metal gear rudder servo *Battery box an On/Off switch for receiver *AA Nimh batteries 2200mAh for transmitter and *rc/radio FrskyTaranis 2.4Ghz

LiPo Battery Monitor by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 18 days ago
Hi Andy There are many variations on the market but they all work basically the same way. Most modern Lipo ( and all Lithium based batteries) come with a small white plug with multiple contacts as well as the main power plug, usually connected to some heavy duty wires. The plug is connected to the battery negative at one end and then each pin is connected to the negative on the next battery etc. This allows the individual cell voltages to be measured. The monitors do this automatically when connected to the plug the correct way, if it doesn't light up it's probably the wrong way round. In my experience the monitor connector is not marked so you may need to try different combinations to find the correct way. You will not damage anything if you get it wrong. When correctly connected the monitor will display each cell voltage then the total voltage. This usually repeats after a few secs until you disconnect If you have a charger they have a selection of different size sockets for the number of pins and can only be inserted the correct way. You will need the manual that came with the charger to select the correct screen to display the values, but most can be found if you Google. Glad to hear you have a monitor, LiPos can be damaged if not kept balanced, or discharged below 3v ( some are higher, usually the high power versions) Hope his helps

Richards 48" Swordsman by ads90 Commander   Posted: 19 days ago
It looks perfectly good to me - when going at full tilt the lift looks just right and you would expect the bow to dip as the speed is reduced. I wouldn't bother moving the batteries myself.

Richards 48" Swordsman by rmwall107 Lieutenant   Posted: 19 days ago
Hi I have finally put the boat on the water😁. i think it looks good and have uploaded three photos (sorry about the quality) the first shows the boat at rest (it had blown a fuse😭) the bow is slightly down, the second photo is the boat at full speed i think this is ok, the third is at about half throttle the boat seems flatter than at full speed. i remember a post earlier in this thread regarding putting the batteries further forward they are currently in the back. I think it is ok but do you think it is worth experimenting. Thanks Richard

SRN 4 by Gascoigne Commander   Posted: 21 days ago
An old favourite from my hovercraft phase. Runs really well on land and especially water. Although no reverse, it will auto-rotate on the hover, so when pointing in the desired direction on with the propulsion with the brushless motor and away she flies. Realistic in operation. Looking a bit work worn now. Could do with up-dating with Lipo batteries which would make it even lighter. Seen here with lift motor running with skirt inflated. Steering interesting, with twin air rudders. Must get some videos of the action.

46" Firefloat What Motor/Battery by pmdevlin Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 27 days ago
Hi John, you might now be scratching your head, and wishing you have not asked the original question! This seems to be a common issue, as the boating community is light years behind the other disciplines, rc cars, planes helis and so on, its probably due to the facts general boating doesnt really need the later generation technology, the average boater age is probably higher than the other disciplines so budgeting might be an issue, and there is less younger blood in the clubs to explain the lipo/brushless etc. We see posts with a load of numbers, specs, warnings etc, its enough to put people off. Im a big fan of brushless/lipo/ 2.4 etc, been doing it for years, its cheaper and more efficient (once you have the basics) but for the average guy, who just wants to spend an easy afternoon at the local lake gently cruising around, brushed motors, nimhs batteries, even lead acid, will do the job👍 Your 4 foot ply boat, once painted, with fittings, will be heavy, I know, I own one. Those 600 motors are not big enough, they are better suited to the smaller 3 foot boat, then, pushing them with a 6v lead acid, just cant do it. The battery will be screaming HELP!! I started 15 years back exactly the same, 600 motor, 6v battery, massive 50mm prop, I knew no better and took advise from people who didnt know what they were talking about😡, remember those gold hi tech speed controllers!! I had one, it melted, literally melted on the first use😭 Get 700 size motors, they will need to be water cooled, as mentioned by jarvo, the nominal voltage or below isnt good enough, power them at the max voltage. Brushed means you can use one apropriate esc, look out for electronize (are they still in existance?) or mtroniks, preferably use nimhs batteries over lead acid with a high mah. If after all this you want to venture into lipos and brushless motors, go to a club, spot a boat that is similar in size to yours, if you like the performance talk to the owner and gain experience and knowledge that way, it will save money, lost time and a lot of disappointment, I have been there so feel your pain. I say I would never go back to brushed motors and none lipo batteries, but I always want silly speed, not runtime, after 15 minutes Ive had enough and am bored. Rambling over! My 4 foot boat is twin brushless and uses 4 lipo 5000mah cells per motor, it will do 25mph for 15 mins, then I go home😁 Message is, you can get a "reasonable" performance from brushed motors, with the correct batteries, right props, but weight is the enemy. Looks lie you are at Biddulph, get onto Dave M a moderator on here, and arrange to go over to see the crewe and district boys on one of their sailing days, take your boat with you, they will help👍