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Hi, first thing I'd do is probably change the props! Looks like the starboard prop has lost a blade, 😭 hope the shaft wasn't bent in the process 🤔 More when we know more about the boat (dimensions etc) motors, available batteries, other working accessories, Your intentions with the boat! Cheers Doug 😎
Hi Nick, If you really have the R3FS RX then what you say above is wrong! The Bind channel slot is CH3. The Battery connector is the 4th slot. See pic from the so called User Manual. I would first try to Bind the RX without the ESC, then you can forget about BEC or not 😉 For this put the binding link into Ch3 slot and the battery in the fourth slot. Then- 1. Install a charged battery in the TX and switch it off. 2. Insert the Binding Link into the Ch3 channel „BIND“ port of the receiver. 3. Connect the receiver battery to any port of the receiver, (leave the ESC out for now) the red LED starts flashing indicating that the RX is starting the tuning process.. 4. Press and hold the „BIND“ button on the transmitter, and switch it on. 5. Watch the LED on the receiver. If the LED stops flashing, the binding process is successful. This process takes up to 5 sec. 6 Release the „BIND“ button on the transmitter, take out the „BIND“ link. 7. Install the servo for testing, in CH1 or 2. 8. If the test fails, repeat 1 to 7 above. 9. If the test succeeds, remove the RX battery, plug the ESC into slot 2, rudder servo into slot 1. As attached wiring diagram, which assumes an ESC with a BEC. All should now work assuming your batteries are OK and the ESC-BEC is working! If not Go back to step 7; No ESC, RX battery in slot 4, servo in slot 1 or 2. If this works then your ESC (or at least the BEC) is duff! 🤔 Hope this does the trick, at least to find out where the snag is - if any! 😉 Viel Glück! 👍 Doug 😎
Hi Nick If your ESC has a BEC you use the throttle channel and the other channel for the rudder. The ESC can not be plugged into the battery connector as there will be no signal on that connector but all the lights will work as you are providing the correct voltage. The ESC should settle to solid red green. If green is showing this suggests the ESC is not finding a signal. I assume the batteries in the Tx are all ok and all connected in the correct way. If you have another TX/Rx you could check The ESC and Rudder servo to make sure they work OK using that set. Hopefully Doug will decipher the bind process but I would check the above first. The Viper has an on off switch and I assume this is working as you are powering everything. Dave
Hi NickW What Tx/Rx have you bought? What is the ESC? Are you sure the original motors and ESC were working? As this is a new Tx/Rx are you sure they are working? Are you sure they are actually bound? If the lights were on the Rx and ESC the battery should have worked the rudder. NiCads are not good for holding their charge and are best charged just before using. NiMh batteries are much better in this respect. Dave
Here's mine I built as per plan about 4 years ago. Name: "Merlin" Specs NiMH (7.2v) 4 Amp/h MTronics Viper Marine 15A Constant Motor: High speed Low drain 545 Type: Brushed Drive: Direct Drive Props: Single Propellor Type: 2 Blade X Type Size: 35mm Built from a Traplet plan In 2013. All wood construction, 545 direct drive motor water cooled with 2 blade prop. 2x 3.7amp 7.2 volt NiMhd batteries and a Mtronics Viper Marine 15amp speed controller.
DJI Phantom 2 v2.2. Anyone fly one of these. Here are the specs of the one I am looking at. But seems due to all the bits it has to carry the total flying time is 16 mins .. Is this long enough for a general flight ? Any here are the specs DJI Phantom 2 v2.0 Fully kitted out with Live video feed to the controller, has the excellent Zenmuse H3-3D stabilised gimbal fitted and has the brilliant Gopro hero 3+ black edition included for excellent results. It has an immersion RC 600mw video transmitter fitted for long range transmission and this is fitted with a Fat shark omni directional higher gain antenna. The controller has a Flysight black pearl monitor fitted with the latest folding sunshade. As it has dual 5.8ghz recievers and 32 channels it has twin antenna mounts on top of monitor and there is a fat shark omni directional antenna to match the one on the video transmitter on the drone and also a 5 turn helical directional antenna for solid video at extended distances. The monitors inbuilt diversity reciever will auto switch between antennas to get the best signal. This comes with all original boxes and 2 sets of propellers one of which have never been out of the box. This drone has the heads up display module already fitted to give you live flight data and heading to find back to home if orientation is lost. As with all Phantoms this drone has auto return to home and land so if connection is lost it will fly back to land at its take off point. This drone includes all chargers etc so is all you need to get flying and capturing great aerial footage in a single kit. I have flown this out to 997m during testing and it is faultless in its reliability. Three flight batteries are included to keep you flying longer. This is a very capable machine that has done some epic flights. I am happy to demonstrate it flying etc as it has never been crashed or abused. So what would you think was a fair price to pay for this drone ????
No it as not fail safe,mine was just carrier wave so with contant signal gave full rudder one way and no signal gave the other.The whole system was a bit marginal and the Hill valve reciever needed two batteries and the servo another and any of them going flat meant trouble!After many crashes I returned to single channel and a rubber powered escapement!.Still remember the sparky as a quivering waste of time!.
Hi Guys, Cant agree more. the reliability etc was always suspect, sudden glitches were the death of several of my models, Just had our club guru convert my Macgregor IV to 2.4ghz using a Futaba module, he has done a Robbe F14 for me as well, I doff my cap to you electronics guys, i know its a basis of switching but changing batteries and a bit of soldering is my limit Mark
As this is a refurbishment chances are it was fitted with an IC engine in which case you need to remove all the gunge and heavy mounting blocks from inside the hull as well as checking the propshaft and bearings. If you can get the weight reduced then I would expect a speed 600 motor with a 30 to 40 mm prop should suffice. A 20/25 watt ESC powered by a NiMh would also be suitable and keep the weight down. If you use racing props the current will be greater than if you use brass 3 blade props, and the bigger the prop the greater the current. As a general rule the prop should have a diameter of no greater than that of the motor. The voltage of the NiMh must not exceed the max voltage the ESC can handle. A higher voltage will reduce the current draw so a 9.6v may be better than a 7.2v and give a longer run time. If you already have batteries for other models I would use those but SLA's are heavy and may hinder planing. If you already use LiPos then make sure your ESC can stand the voltage and has a built in cut off to protect the battery.
Hi guys, after reading all your advice including muddy's pm. I've fitted the suppressors and earthed the motor can to shaft tube, then run the motor for 6 hours starting on 1.5 volts And working up by 1.5 volts every 20 minutes, plus running in reverse at each voltage step. Finally up to 12volts. No arcing and no interference. But while doing this I found another problem, the prop shaft was bent, it took about half an hour to true it up, now super quiet. I used Mitchell Marine Grease in the shaft tube. (Available at all good fishing tackle shops). Tomorrow I will try to do a load test in water if my grandsons paddling pool will take it as I want to know the run time on my SLA and gell batteries. Well that's it for tonight I'm pooped. Good night. Colin.
Hi Joe I guess this is a follow on from your last request re charging batteries in the boat. Your tandem is usually referred to as parallel connected where the positive terminals on each battery are connected together as are the negative terminals. This will give you 12 volts but double the Amphr capacity in your case to 24Amphr. Is this to be used in the fishing boat with the working winch? As Doug advised the total expected current draw will determine the cable required and you should protect this with a fuse in the positive lead from the batteries. If you can run separate cables from the battery to the ESC and the winch control then they will only need to carry the current for that device. Again each cable should have an appropriate fuse. As regards the charging lead this will be less than 5 amps and your SLA will have suitable leads. I would not recommend charging SLA's in parallel as in my experience one always charges first and the charger goes into trickle mode leaving one battery undercharged. I thinke you will need to have the two positive battery connections accessible so you can charge each separately. Halfords have a range of cables which should cover your requirements and also have fuses. Cheers Dave
OK. Then you mean in parallel to double the capacity and therefore run time. Then you have to always make sure that both batteries are the same type, same age and same charge level! Otherwise the stronger one will always be charging the weaker one until they are both at the same state! I can still only point to my previous advice, have a look at the link to 'Electrical related', cos I don't know how much current you want to stuff through the cables. In the same forum you will also find some guidelines for fuses to protect; cables, motors, ESCs, other expensive equipment! For the record tandem to me means one behind the other like the bike! 😉 I.e. in series! Good luck, Doug 😎