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>> Home > Tags > batteries

battery life
battery mount
battery pack
battery power
battery voltage
HMS HOOD by Trumpeter by octman Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 5 days ago
Glad I read this, must charge camera batteries! Chris

Longer run time by Haverlock Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 12 days ago
Your question does not have simple answers have you used a watt meter to see the current your motor is drawing at full throttle? With any installation its a good idea to do that test since its a good way to match motor and prop. LiPo batteries have a better current delivery than lead acid BUT you do need to be careful about end voltages so as not to damage the battery. Many ESC have a voltage cut off built in to protect LiPo batteries it may be your hitting that limit with your lead acid battery. The simplest solution to your problem is to look at the Amp/hour rating of your existing battery and get something with a higher rating. Going LiPo can give a much higher rating with a LOT less weight. The downside being the need for a special charger and the need to be careful about storage and end point voltages. As to putting 2 batteries in series to get a higher voltage yes you can BUT increasing the voltage to a brushless motor requires you match the prop to the new voltage running on the existing prop will probably cook the motor. How hot is your brushless running now? Outrunners generally can swing a bigger prop than inrunners.

Longer run time by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 13 days ago
Hi, Lead acid doesn't like delivering the high currents brushless motors want. They are more suited to long term low currents. Go for a LiPo, 3 or 4S, something 7AH plus should keep you going for a while. Don't put batteries in parallel as one will inevitably try to charge the other, unless you have a hi power diode board in between them to prevent that. Cheers, Doug 😎

Longer run time by randhbarker Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 13 days ago
I am using 1 12v lead acid battery in my sea queen with a brushless motor. It’s only giving me about 15 minutes on the water. The boat will get up and go for a few minutes but after that I can have the throttle wide open but the speed has gone. Can I link more than 1 battery together to give me a greater voltage which I believe a brushless motor can cope with. If so which batteries should I use and should I wire in series or parallel? I await your thoughts Thanks

BRAVE BORDERER by RHBaker Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 14 days ago
Whilst waiting for the new motors and ESCs, reviewed videos of the vessel under power and noted that as the speed increases, the bow lifts towards a plane. However, as she gathers speed the transom flaps become effective, forcing the bow down in a cloud of spray. At this point the plane has been lost and the model becomes almost uncontrollable. Decided to temporarily ballast the hull to simulate the new motors and ESCs, then try to establish the optimum flap angle using just the centre propeller and shaft. This is the original 2838 brushless motor installation with a 30 mm propeller. With this simulated drivetrain it would also be an opportunity to determine the best battery locations for both 2 and 3S Li-Po batteries. Made up an angle template with a spirit level to get the correct deck inclination with the vessel floating at rest. From this located each type of battery statically - somewhere close to the mid-point of the hull. Which also seemed as good a place to start as any! Somewhere in the research for this model found a reference to the transom flap angle. This was at a 2 degree -ve (pointing downwards) angle. Installed the 2S battery and tried the model. The bow dug in at speed. Adjusted the flap to a straight and level position and tried again. The bow still wanted to dig in, but to a reduced extent. Readjusted the angle to 2 + ve and repeated. The bow now lifted so the forefoot just cleared the water and then remained in that position. Replaced the 2S battery with the 3S. The extra power obviously increased speed and the bow lifted slightly further. The spray was deflected by the chine rails and a level plane established. The conclusion is that the transom flap angle is critical to the correct planing of this model and that it should not be negative. Until the new motors and ESCs are fitted will leave the transom flap and battery locations as is. Once these components are installed, intend to repeat the test. Am confident that with some fine tuning the model can be now made to plane properly at a scale speed. Interesting to note that the model will just about plane with only one propeller operating – wonder what it will be like with all three?

LED Tug Mast Navigation Lights by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 19 days ago
OK. Good, that's all I need to know 👍 Now to put new batteries in me calculator 😁 BTW: I know soccer isn't exactly THE game over there, BUT England are playing in the World Cup tonight, wish 'em luck - they might need it 😉 Ciao, Doug 😎

Bow wave suppression by FloatingVoter Seaman   Posted: 22 days ago
Aren't you supposed to be riding over that bow wave not wallowing in it? If you have Lipo batteries you probably have brushless motors (kV? how many cells?) - try a smaller prop - much smaller - let the motors run free and show what they are capable of.

After fibreglass and primer coat by Ron Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 23 days ago
So, the hull has been fibreglassed, and several coats of primer applied. What next? Mark the water line as seen on the PDF and photographs? OR Place model in water, load up with approximately the weight of servos, batteries, and other building materials? Paint exterior hull or wait till interior servos are mounted? Scratch building questions...

Charging NiMhs, one for Doug?... by onetenor Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 23 days ago
You guys might like to have one of these.I can really recommend it----- My tool was from Bang Good and cheaper but I can't find it again now.👍 Just come across some Lithium Thional Chloride batteries 3.6 v per cell.Doug I have a wall wart that has a burnt out resistor in the final output pos line.Voltage across the terminals 15 v. I need to drop the voltage to 7..v or a bit over to charge a 4 pack of AA Nimh cells any idea what value resistor I should replace The burnt one with as the value bands were burnt off. Someone shorted it out during a charge. That is the only damage. I don't want to lash it for the sake of a resistor if I can avoid it. I hope you can work it out . I'm guessing 20 Ohms but just a guess🤔🤔 Quite small so maybe 1/4 or 1/2 watt.

Bow wave suppression by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 23 days ago
Hi "He who needs more lift under wunwing"😁 What batteries are you using? And where are they mounted? Cheers, Doug 😎

Charging NiMhs, one for Doug?... by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 23 days ago
I thought they all had to be cycled to keep any charge in 'em. What do I know? All my batteries have died...Lead acids, Nimhs (except for the new ones for the testing of the Spektrum). I hate bloody batteries. I don't use my stuff often enough to keep them working. Such as all Winter. Basically from September to May all boating is on hold. So batteries get left. I now have a Digital radio which uses 4 AAs, but they get charged in a wall wart, no packs of them and no fancy connectors, so that still leaves out the NiMhs. I suppose all you can do is run a motor or something. Maybe a light bulb. Then recharge. What a faff. I wasn't cut out for working models. Cheers, Martin

Charging NiMhs, one for Doug?... by Haverlock Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 24 days ago
your IMAX charger will handle a single cell LiPO fine! so you can put the LiPO into its storage state if your not going to use the TX for an extended time. Some good data there on the care and feeding of LiPo batteries

Charging NiMhs, one for Doug?... by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 24 days ago
Evenin' Martin, OK- 1. Your NiMhs have Tamiya plugs. 2. Correct charge lead for those would be the one in your last pic. BUT; it puzzles me that it seems to have one 4mm plug, OK, and one 4mm socket?? If that IS the case; Why? Should have two plugs to go in the charger. Change it for one of your new 4mm plugs. 3. You can charge the LiPo with the lead second from right. The 'bricks' are 'T' or 'XT' connectors.They look like XT60. Common on LiPos. Select LiPo and 'Auto' on the charger and it will do the rest. Don't forget to plug in the little white Balancer plug so the charger knows what it is charging and can balance the cells. Guess the next question will be:- 'But the white plug is too big to fit the charger'! If so you need an adaptor! See pic. The adaptor is in the middle; 'XH Adaptor'. Plugs on batteries are XH, sockets on chargers the smaller EH. It's a conspiracy to force us to buy adaptor boards or cables 😡 However, if the LiPo hasn't been used or charged for years I don't hold out much hope for it 🤔 At the bottom of my pic you can see one of my capacity / cell voltage testers. Glad the FlySky package works. What does a Luddite learn from that? Buy TX and RX together as a so called 'Combo' and they come ready bound, saving a lot of F'ing and Blinding 😉 Was very surprised you bought a car pistol grip with trigger throttle. Might be OK for throttle (cars are usually 'digitally driven'; i.e. Flat Out or Stop!) But I wonder how you'll get on with that on a sail winch 😲 Bon chance mon ami 👍 Cheers, Doug 😎

Charging NiMhs, one for Doug?... by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 24 days ago
That's exactly what I would recommend Haverlock👍 I have such jigs for all the common plug / socket types I use. Also a small vice with rubber jaws 😉 Martin; surely you got at least one charging lead with the charger? Post a pic of it please, also of your batteries so we can see what plugs they have. Reason for the big 'ole in 4mm plugs; they are intended for high currents so you need a thick wire! I also thought of the screw plugs. Only snag is that they are usually nickel or silver plated and they corrode so the connection is not so reliable. 'Gold don't do nuffink wiv nuffink' 😉 Cheers, Doug 😎

Spektrum, new, useless... by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 26 days ago
Yes John, can happen but only at the battery terminal connections , if the batteries are left in and the unit not used for a long time. If that was the case here Martin wouldn't even get the one green light he sees. As I understand it until now the TX never came out of the box and never had batteries in it. Cheers, Doug 😎