Batteries!, always a problem in the 50s on "paper round" money, used to cadge,"borrow" or steal batteries for our boats.Used to be able to buy a cheap kit and even a cheap Japanese motor (coupled to the prop shaft with bicycle valve tubing) but it would be unused for weeks until I could afford a battery, and then they did not last long.Used to borrow batts from my dads bike lamps,my grannies gas stove lighter and the door bell!.Also use to be able to remove cells from the "winner 120" batteries from my dads sky queen radio as the HV cells used to discharge first.This was the downfall of glowplug motors,we could start them at home but on getting to the pool the tall 1.5v battery would be flat.My dad showed me how to locate good cells on duff car batteries by putting a load on them and measuring the voltage across each cell,we then emptied the acid out into mums washing up bowl and sawed the good cells out,refilling them with acid filtered through a handkerchief!,this worked a treat for starting glow motors but my hankie and the pocket I kept it in suffered!I eventually sorted the power problem by using a clockwork motor removed from the family gramamphone to fit an autochanger.
[Score: 9/10] 17"/600g Tear into Single Propellor (2 Blade S Type 20mm) Direct Drive to a Turnigy 3800KV 2627 (2 Blade S Type) Powered by LiPoly (7.4v) 2Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through 40a ESC Sky Walker ESC - Comments: A modified toy boat from EBAY, the original electronics has been removed and a BL set-up and 2S LiPo battery has been installed. Quick, "cheap" and fun just like a "Kinder egg" 3 things in one packaged ;-). The set-up do allow it to run on 3S but it's more scream than more power. Short video https://youtu.be/rIzBSnTaxtA
Hi Doug I am impressed. There are also LiFe batteries around and are somewhat safer for Tx/Rx use, but require the same care as all Lixx batteries. I am confused by the CONRAD battery rated at 4amp and 30C. I would say this suggests a 120A max burst current. I can't see 60C marked on the battery. It may well be capable of being charged at 2C ie 8amps but like you I would never consider charging at this rate. The higher power and performance batteries are capable of taking higher charges and will withstand the heavy discharges demanded by those who race fast models. However such batteries are for the serious racers and do not come cheap. I do have one concern and that is your mention of overnight charging. I agree this may be OK for NiCad, NiMh and SLA's but LiXX batteries should never be left on charge unattended and certainly not overnight. My chargers have settings for Lixx batteries that adjust the charge current for the voltage and capacity and automatically give a varied charge current until the battery capacity is achieved, balancing the cells at the same time. Dave
Aha! interesting clue about freezing photos! Missed that 🤔 You can free up a lot of operating memory by stopping or deleting loads of Apps which otherwise run in the background, whether you need or want them or not! Go to the Applications Manager via Settings. Doing this on my Samsung (and previous Nokia E7) solved a similar problem with photos by MMS and prolonged the battery life enormously 😊 Many Apps regularly 'log in' and check for updates, or report where you are etc., without you noticing. This wastes lots of power 😲 Cheers Doug 😎
Here's a conundrum that I'd like your thoughts on. I recorded some data on one of my boats now running on a couple of the battery packs that were cycled as discussed earlier. They are 6V 5000mAh NiMH packs which, after their final charge, showed they received 5500mAh according to my charger. For the subsequent run I fitted a recorder which showed the current consumption, as on the attached chart; typically 2.55A, with a maximum of 2.9A. A rough consumption calculation based on the chart, of 2.55A for 70 minutes, is a little less than 3000mAh. When I recharged them after the run, the charger showed they'd taken 3850mAh. Why the difference between the 3000mAh consumption, and the replacement charge of 3850mAh? The charge and discharge efficiencies are obviously less than 100%, but this data suggests that the two combined are only 78%. So, for example, if the two efficiences are equal (89%), if the charger states a charged value of 5000mAh, the battery has only accepted 4450mAh (=5000*89/100). When delivering the power, it can only put out 3960mAh.(=4450*89/100). Or in other words, only 78% of a battery's stated capacity is usable. Or is there a different explanation? Roy
After a slight pause (6 months since last post 😱) have finally found some time between family and work commitments to push things forward a bit. A bit short on workspace at the moment as garage and office is chocca (Hi Dad - when we move house can you look after some stuff for us...?) so have spent some time practicing battery charging, and setting all the electrics and basic R/C controls up on a little test rig. The blue support for the prop drive shaft is a bit of a clip-on folder binder strip I stole. The shaft is held perfectly. I'll keep this in reserve as a possible means of mounting things in the hull, when the time comes. I have a 2000mAh Nimh battery powering a 10A Deans marine ESC. The receiver is a Devolution Devo RX1002, the servo an Align DS520 (both salvaged from my foray in to the lunacy that is R/C helicopters). The motor is a Deans marine KYTE. Just messing with the white metal prop for now, will obviously use the nice shiny brass one I bought on the proper build.
Glad to hear you have solved your problem. Overrunning any system will result in some interesting issues and you are fortunate that yours shut down or failed open circuit otherwise all the electronics could have cooked. If you are getting a separate on-board power source the best option is to go for a switched mode supply, most will give you lots of amps without the heat problems of an ESC and are designed to work with higher battery voltages. You must disconnect any +ve power lead from any ESC to your rx. If your ESC has an on/off switch do make sure it is switched on, preferable before you power up the switched mode unit. Be good to see some pics or on water video Dave
The accepted wisdom is that only one power source should be used to power a receiver from an ESC. I can see where using a separate battery and a BEC would be questionable, but what about using two BEC connectors when using two identical ESCs? The reason for my question is I am powering the Rx off the port motor ESC through its BEC in one of my models. The starboard ESC has the positive BEC wire disconnected. The port ESC failed "ON" today causing my model to go in uncontrollable circles as the failure caused the Rx to shut the starboard ECS down. If both ESC / BECs had been connected could I have retained control of the starboard motor as that ESC was fine?
Good result Just what I was about to suggest as it happened to me.Re testing through insulation Bang Good sell pairs of adaptors to fit over the tips of standard test probes. Sharp as needles but strong enough to pierce most insulation. Nicads NiMhs and others develop needles or dentricles inside which short out the anode to cathode internally These can be dissolved or blasted away by flashing them with a higher voltage .A/C or D/C. I use my welder. Hold one contact to one battery terminal and flash the other with the other welder terminal. Just a glancing blow DO NOT hold it in place.There is no real need to split the pack but can if you would rather treat individual cells.They can be done without unsoldering them just use some wire held in the earth clamp and stickholder or feed gun to reach the ends of each cell.You get the picture .I have done this with battery powered tools for years .I have a 24 volt drill that is still on original battery after more than 10yrs. Another way is connect the supplied charger and plug in and switch on waggle the plug in wall socket in such a way as to make and break contact about 16 or more times. Not as good as the flashing method but works. Wet cells can be improved by putting 2 or three teaspoons of Epson Salts in each cell. Many tops can be chiseled/prized off to access the interior and glued back on with plumbers solvent cement or similar............Gorilla glue would probably do it too. Here 's hoping I've saved a few quid for some of you. BTW I wouldn't know if this would work for Lipos.I wouldn't want to be the first to try 😆🤐Here is the page https://www.banggood.com/search/insulation-piercing-needles....
I have always embraced new technology and agree some of the older skillsets are fast disappearing as it is now possible to design and build almost anything from an electronic gizmo. I embrace these new techniques and have delved into 3d CAD and printers and can now make most of the bits I need. I started like many born just after the war with plastic kits followed by balsa and tissue planes, model trains, cars, boats then into electronics and early RC. I get great pleasure from the building either scratch or kit but I do worry that many prefer to just buy the finished product. I still have my IC engines and planes from my flying days but for all but the fast racers, brushless more than meets the power requirements for our scale models, but I don't deny or object to the many who still enjoy IC and have access to permitted venues. Battery power has improved over the years and Lithium batteries are capable of delivering massive power at little weight. Provided they are handled and treated correctly they are safe to use but rather like fireworks incorrect handling can be unpredictable and dangerous. This refurbishment really goes back to basics and will result in a model being restored and enjoyed for many years and Colin has certainly shown us some new techniques. I doubt if some of the off the shelf newer models will survive quite so long. Dave
Hello folks. Brand new here, so go easy! I have searched but not quite found what I am after. Apologies if I've missed the obvious. Having just finished a 36" Fireboat with my son, I am now thinking about the larger 46" version. The little boat is running a Radient Reaktor motor / ESC combo which is 3000kV with a matched ESC and 2S1P LiPo battery. Performance is pretty good, although we're still ironing out some cooling issues and vibration (old model resurrected). I am going to do the big boat 'properly' so am looking for recommendations for power, ESC and batteries. I am looking for overscale performance and tend to run on choppy water with currents (i.e. rivers😁). Thanks in advance, everyone!
I recently required a smoke generator (ultrasonic Type) it is not in working order but I have rigged it up to test and bypassed the circuit board powered by 2 X 12 volt batteries and managed to get the vapourising unit to function, and the 12 volt fan motor with a separate supply to also work. With some work to replace the 12v to 24v converter CN6009 it should satisfactory. This unit appears to be a DIY job but very similar to MMB Foggy Smoke Generator which is available. Note the component required CN6009 I have sourced on ebay. Soon as it arrives I will set it up and test its suitability for a 1/24 scale TID tug boat model I am building. Problem might be size of smoke generator and other components required to fit in the hull in addition to a 12 volt 9ah battery scooter battery, there aint much space. There are smaller smoke generators available which burn oil (fan powered) which I have in one of my other models (Blazer Tug Boat) which is OK with no wind and close up but at any distance hard to detect if any smoke is being produced. The Oil recommend for this unit is Baby Oil which smells OK but I have wondered if I could use another oil based fluid which would produce more smoke (Any suggestions)?
Hi Doug and Dave, very sorry for the radio silence, day job getting in the way! Really appreciate the input, interesting to hear about your experience with the progress of technology, I guess in using digital RX and TX setups there are different issues that arise! So, to your kind advice - I unplugged the servo Dave, and no difference, which made me think it was the motor. I disconnected the ESC (and hence the power), added a battery input to the RX and all was ok! That made me realise that the power section was the problem, confirmed by a suggestion a fellow model Boater made about checking the battery - instead of chucking out 7.2v, it was giving about 5.3v! Recharged and hey presto - problem solved! Flat battery giving out interference!! Here's the system now behaving as it it should; https://youtu.be/VbGxC0VIo3A Thanks again for all the help and advice - very much appreciated. Regards, Eric
The switch panel and wiring loom was made, tested and dry fitted a while ago and so it only needs securing to the bulkhead with four fixing screws, the two NiMh batteries were strapped down to the bearers with cable ties as close to the chines as possible and the XT60 connectors mated. I have read that placing the heavy batteries as far away from the keel as possible improves the handling, all other heavy items are centered along the keel for symmetry and should help the boat to sit evenly in the water. I’m not sure if I will need to do any ballasting, hopefully the maiden voyages should give me an indication. The prop shaft was greased and fitted, and with the prop, thrust washers and lock nuts in place, the clearance was adjusted and locked with some Loctite so the motor could then be installed. The initial motor alignment was made with a solid coupler which was then replaced with the universal joint, I took the precaution to grind a flat on the motor shaft so that the locking grub screw has better grip on the shaft. The grease tube was then fitted to the shaft clamp and secured to the side of the switch panel. The ESC was fixed to the back of the bulkhead with another couple of cable ties and the input cables, again XT60 types, and the three pole XT60 motor connectors mated. I have also fitted a Turnigy in-line volt, amp and watt meter in the circuit before the ESC so that I can log readings in case of spurious fuse blowing issues or unexpected battery life problems. The water cooling tubes were then run from the water pickup, through the ESC and then back to the transom ‘exhaust’ outlet, all water connections are fitted with spring clips to ensure water tight connections. I have used quite a large bore silicone tubing to ensure maximum water flow and made sure that all bends are kink and compression free. The R/C receiver is fixed to the rear cabin wall with some Velcro pads for easy removal, the two aerials were fitted in some plastic tubing at 90 degrees to each other as recommended for 2.4 gig systems and as high above the waterline as possible. The receiver is connected to a separate 4.8 volt NiMh battery via a changeover switch that also has a charging connection and LED power indicator, and I have also fitted a battery voltage indicator, just because they are cheap and convenient although the R/C system that I have has telemetry that reports RX voltage as standard. The battery charger I have chosen can handle the 16 cell series configuration of the drive batteries and so they can be charged in-situ when the main power switch is toggled over to the charge position. The RX and lighting batteries are charged separately. All of the servo and lighting switch cables are routed through the hull to the receiver through pre drilled holes in the bulkheads at high level for neatness and to retain the integrity of each compartment just in case 😲!!. The servo and cables and the water cooling tubes are strapped to a supporting bar between the bulkheads for neatness and security. With the TX switched on first, the RX is then powered up and the main power switch toggled to the ‘operate’ position, the ESC then gives a reassuring series of bleeps that confirm that all is well. The ESC was set up using a Turnigy programming card specifically for that model of controller and if required I can tweak the settings once the boat has had a few sailings. The last things to do now are to fit some strong magnets to hold the hatches and roofs down securely and then finally raise the RAF ensigns 😁
Hi Nick I am fairly certain your problems are mainly battery related. Do you use the Tamiya (white plug and socket) type battery connector? If so these can make a bad contact which then causes all kinds of unusual problems. We did get a good connection with the ESC working correctly. Subsequently the same set up had no power. This could be a flat battery or a bad connector not making contact. If you push and pull the connector and the set comes to life you have found the problem. Charging the flat battery should get you up and running again. Getting late now so perhaps we can have another attempt tomorrow Cheers dave