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>> Home > Tags > battery power

battery power
gas power
portland model power boat association
power block
power boat
power source
power supply
power unit
battery
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battery mount
battery pack
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batteries
battery power
Brushless motor(s) by Little-Charlie Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 20 days ago
Hi, I have recently purchased a Precedent KD Perkasa kit 37" and would like to power it with a brushless motor, but being an Old F**t I know nothing at all about Brushless Motors or their relevant speed controllers or battery power. So I would like your input on what exactly I need, obviously I would like the model to have a fair turn of speed. Thanking you in anticipation of your much needed assistance. Little Charlie

Voltage increasing via regulator by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 27 days ago
A somewhat confused question if I may say so Eric!😲 You can't 'regulate up' only down. The regulator's job is to produce a constant lower voltage from a range of higher voltages. I often use one to produce 5V for the RX and servos from a 12V SLA drive battery. A little 3 legged device (type LM7805) which looks just like the power FETs in a high current ESC. My version of a UBEC! 😉 What is this 'regulator' you have? Type number? Manufacturer? Photo? To get 12V from 7.2V you would need to use a Voltage converter (also known as an inverter). This works by converting the DC input from the battery to an AC voltage which can then be increased using a transformer. More elegant (and expensive!) versions use a transistor oscillator and amplifier. This uses hi-power transistors instead of the transformer. The AC output of the transformer (or amplifier) is then rectified back to DC. All this is very inefficient which is why it is normally only used for very light currents, where the losses are not so significant, and when there is no other alternative, not often the case! You can't beat the physics and you will never get the same power out that you put in. This leads to a basic design question:- What is the total current consumption of the load? I.e. the motors. A simple example:- Let's say that at 7.2V the motors draw 10Amps total, i.e. 72W (or VAmps). Assuming a utopian 100% efficiency at 12V this would equate to 6A. Due to the three stages of conversion; DC to AC, transformation / amplification of AC to 12V, AC back to DC, you'll probably be lucky to get an efficiency of around 60% to 70%. Thus if you stick 720W in you'll get around 430 to 504W out. Not much of a gain is it!🤔 Your battery would be exhausted in about 2/3 the time it is now 😡 If your motors draw more than 10A the problem just gets worse. So what is it you really want to do? If you just want to up the volts to your motors stick a 12V SLA or an 11.1V LiPo (3S) in and hope that you don't cook your motors! Frankly I don't really know why you're bothering, tugs aren't sprinters! If you want more pulling power with the existing setup try experimenting with prop sizes and pitch. Will probably achieve much more than fiddlin' about with voltage converters. BTW: All this assumes that the RX has it's own separate 5V battery supply or from a BEC in the ESC. Some clarification needed from your side. Cheers, Doug 😎

Sunset sailing by Gregg Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Our club recently held a sunset sailing session, its surprising how a cheap set of battery powered lights from a pound shop can add yet another world to r/c boat sailing, so why not have a go at your club too, great fun cheap to do and once finished, you can remove the lights ready for regular sailing.

Revell 1/72 Flower Class Corvett by Mikep Commander   Posted: 1 month ago
Revell model at stern you see a small servo with micro switch for the Ram whooper sound module. Pic with upper deck on side shows speaker and electronics with 9volt battery power. Moving forward Harbor Models small 6 volt smoker, 3000 nimh 6 volt battery with 2 connectors powers smoker fan and main motor from ESC.

Mtronics and Lipo's by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Basically ads is correct, but that's only half the story! The clue is to look for 'LiPo Safe' when buying ESCs. That tells you it has a programmable Cut Off voltage setting to prevent damage to your battery. Default is usually 3.2V per cell. Absolute minimum is 3.0V. Below that you risk irreversible damage to the battery due to chemical changes that can't be reversed. The alternative is to fit a battery monitor which can trigger an audio and/or visual alarm to warn you to 'make nearest port best speed' before your battery is deep discharged, from which it will not recover! Some ESCs have a programmable function which allows to preset a reduction of the max power to the motor (instead of a total shut down) to give you the chance to get home before disaster. PLEASE don't ask me which ones. Check the specs carefully before you buy. Many current TX/RX sets will tell you on the TX display when the battery volts are low. Cheers, Doug 😎

motor sizeing by canabus Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi Jim I used a Hobbyking D3548/4 1100kv , a car ESC (hk60A-SL)(electric fan on top for cooling), program card(HK PROG-CARD) and a 40mm 2blade prop(test out the one on the boat first). Battery a 3s 5800mah 30C Lipo. This is in my Sea Commander and gives a good turn of speed with a long run time. ESC set up:- 1 Cutoff Voltage for 3S=10.2 and 4S=13.6 2 Start Power Percent=5% 3 Advance Timing=4 4 Run Mode=2 5 Brake Force=1 6 Drag Brake Force=1 7 Neutral Range=1 8 Initial Brake Force=1 9 Reverse Force=1 Canabus

Nomenclature... by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi John, think somehow you've got the wrong end of the stick!🤔 All BECs are Battery Eliminator Circuits of one sort or another. The objective is to eliminate the separate receiver battery, sometimes necessary purely to save weight and/or space in small models. If you do that then the RX power must come from the main drive battery, which then has to supply all RX functions; servos, switched lights etc etc. Personally, if the boat / ship can carry it, I prefer to use drive batteries for just that and use separate battery for the RX and special functions. Some of which, like smokers for instance can be current gobblers. Cheers, Doug 😎 PS If you ever find a way of eliminating all batteries and still get the RX to work and the boat to move PATENT IT QUICK!! 😁 Cheers, Doug 😎 Hmmm! Maybe a raft towed behind with an array of hi-current solar panels!? 😁😁 Years ago in my work in NAVAL COMMS systems I once suggested to a shipbuilder, who was complaining about the number of antennas needed, to put some of them on a raft behind the ship 😉 Now they are doing just that with antenna buoys from submerged submarines! No credits 🤔 ... SIGH 😉

Nomenclature... by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi Martin, 'Linear' in this context just means more or less a passive analogue device, and when it's on it's ON full stop. Decades ago I made my own with a simple one chip circuit using a 3 legged voltage regulator L7805 5V 1A and they're still going strong😊 The SBEC uses a fast switching type of power circuit, similar to the pulsed DC outputs of the ESCs. The switched type is an active device and is more efficient, less battery power wasted as heat, but can cause interference with older 27 / 40Meg RC receivers. Shouldn't affect 2.4Gig sets though. Cheers, Doug. PS even in a blackout I think I would find my way to the wine cooler or my malt whisky! 😁😋

Nomenclature... by onetenor Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
I think WQ means if a BEC eliminates a battery and a UBEC and SBEC provide power where does the relevant /required power come from in each case. Also why eliminate a battery and if you do where does the power come from then? I think I've guessed right. If not I apologise Westquay. And what's a linear BEC etc. Regards John👍

Nomenclature... by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Thanks, Doug. Not sure what you mean by linear device. Sorry to be late answering, but at 7-30 this evening our power went off and it's just come back on! Boy was I after a cuppa! Sat and listened to battery powered DAB radio eating peanuts in the dark and drinking pineapple juice! Martin

Nomenclature... by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi Martin, BEC is the Battery Eliminator Circuit built into an Electronic Speed Controller. UBEC is a Universal BEC which takes power from the main (drive) battery and supplies 5V or 6v to the receiver. It can be a linear device. SBEC does the same job as a UBEC but is a so called Switched device which is more efficient than a linear. So functionally for our purposes there is no difference. Alles klar Herr Kommissar!? 😉 Cheers, Doug 😎

BRAVE BORDERER by jbkiwi Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 2 months ago
Starting a bit backwards here as have posted more recently with some ideas. If you are going to have a twin brushless system using 1 REC, you probably should have twin 2200Mah 2s lipos, a power lead (I use a JST plug set) taken from the input leads of ONE ESC (not the batt leads) (I break into them and solder the JST leads on ) run those to a UBEC and then to your REC switch then to your receiver. If your ESCs have a built in BEC, withdraw the red power wires from the BEC receiver plugs and tape them back as you now don't need the power from these. If your TX is 2 stick 4/6ch etc and is capable of being changed to 2 throttle sticks (provision for ratchet strip - copy if necessary - on opposite gimbal - ie using set up as mode 1&2 throttle) you can use the existing throttle and elevator stick to give full independent control with either rudder or aileron Ch for rudder. The Chinese ESCs I use have a power switch as well as BECs which is handy. I would keep the brushed system separate from the brushless altogether with its own battery (or try power from the other batt as described above) otherwise you may be trying to mix 3 phase and single phase at some point. If you are using 2.4 you could use another paired 3ch receiver (does work, as mentioned in my later post) to only run the brushless throttle from a rotary sw on your TX (if you have that )

EarlyVosper M.T.B by Simplas by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
"Maybe but ballast ,is ballast,is ballast. However it's achieved." Sure John, but at least a heavy battery is useful load and not 'just' ballast.😉 Have no idea what shaft power the Fuji produces (only know their excellent 35mm film😉) but the Taycol Supermarine is rated at 22.5mHP (22.5/1000HP) at 3.5A, 4000rpm. Efficiency 52% 🤔 so you have to stick twice as much electrical power in to achieve that! Sooo, given that 1HP = 745.7 Watts - And electrically P=IxV (Current x Volts) 22.5/1000HP = (745.7*22.5)/1000 = 16.778W so ~33.55W in. Thus if I = 3.5A they must have done that test / measurement at about 9.6V. The Supermarine also runs great at 12V but maybe not with max efficiency!? With a spec weight of 2&1/2 lb i don't even want to get into Power to Weight Ratio, although I measured Colin's motor at 947gm = 2.0877776229lb 😉 But then, some of the motor had corroded away As I'm currently renovating a Supermarine for Colin H. This makes me start thinking about rigging up a test jig so I can see what it actually produces!!! Always up for a challenge 😁 Got nowt else to do 😁😁 Would be useful for other motors as well if I can get it figured out😉 Happy fiddlin' folks, cheers, Doug 😎

lastest progress by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi TJ, that instruction is quite correct👍 It indicates that the ESCs have Battery eliminator Circuits (BEC) which means that there is an internal circuit which 'syphons' off 5V from the main drive battery to supply the receiver via the red wire in the ESC to RX cable. The ESC itself takes it's power from the drive battery. If all three red wires are left connected this will cross couple all three BEC circuits and may well damage the ESCs. The RX only needs one power supply! 😉 In my multiple shaft boats I usually disconnect all the red leads from ESC to RX and fit a separate RX battery. Cheers, Doug 😎

Italeri P.T 109 by boaty Admiral   Posted: 2 months ago
I bought an Italeri PT109 kit in 2011. It took 4 months to build as I had other projects on at the time. I notices the high quality of the parts, especially the hull and the actual paint finish was very easy due to it being plastic and got the nearest colour match by using Humbrol spray acrylic of Grass Green with Regency Red acrylic for the waterline and below. Difficult decision was as to build as a triple screw to maintain scale or go for the single screw. I eventually went for the latter with just one rudder. Power was by a 480 brushed flight motor with a 30 amp esc which was a bit over the top as power was by a 2200mAh 2S Lipo but the esc was the only one they had in the shop. Getting the motor installed was very straight forward as it was done before the deck was fitted but I had to make the aft cabin detachable for access to taking the battery in and out and also lubricating the propshaft .The boat performed well at scale speed but got slightly out of shape when full power was applied, appearing more as a fast electric. Overall the boat was ideal for smaller ponds (providing it was not running flat out). The outcome was a well detailed model that appeared like the real thing on the water but I would not recommend sailing it in rough conditions.. Boaty😁