The best I can do is when I get a new battery put it in cross ways, the 3 sticks that I used for a test were already near the back, just length ways down the boat. I added some weights behind the rudder shaft that helped a little not these photographs. Some fettling needed next year when the season starts again. Cheers all
Having looked at the P94 self build diagrams the two positive and negative leads are connected together on the circuit board. The positive leads are connected by a thin copper track which I suspect would suffer if two mismatched (voltage wise) batteries were connected to each positive lead. By using two sets of leads the wiring is kept to smaller diameter and matches the two power distribution boards by ACTION. The instructions do warn against using separate batteries and there is a wiring diagram showing both sets of leads joined and fed via one large fuse to the battery. However the diagram on the description page shows fuses on each red lead which should be ignored and probably accounts for any confusion regarding battery connections. There can be problems (some are incompatible systems) with 2.4 sets due to the delay in the signal establishing after the ESCs have self set and sometimes when the BEC voltage drops due to high current demands. This can be overcome by changing the chip to a non self setting version or disabling the onboard BEC and using a separate Rx battery. Personally I use a separate battery wherever possible.
Yes you are quite right Saga32. I am an only child spoilt brat and want everything to happen NOW...........! My 'tutors' here spotted that a while back and are an invaluable help. By the way all, why are the battery cables with the Unit nice and thick and the original ones on the motors so so thin and frail looking? All the best. NPJ
Mention was made earlier of the two sets of red and black wires being for separate batteries. The manual says "Do not under any circumstances connect a separate battery pack to each pair of red and black wires - it may seem logical but you will very probably do fatal damage to the P94" I would agree with the previous post from NPJ "slow down and read the manual" There's a lot in there. Hope your tug installation goes well
John As you are using 2.4Ghz radios there is quite a long delay in the binding between Tx and Rx. The ESCs also perform a set up and I have noticed that this is often quicker than the radio. As a result the ESCs have no signal and can revert to a failsafe state. If you have correctly set up the ESC with the tx then it should retain this setting unless you press the set up button whilst the lights are flashing. I suspect this is at the root of the problem. To restore the settings to your set I suggest you use a separate rx battery, centre the throttle stick and trim and get the Tx/rx working together. Then switch on the ESC and whilst the lights are flashing press the set up button and move the throttle stick full forward (solid green) then full reverse (solid red) return to neutral solid red/green. If you now switch off the esc and rx battery and switch back on the ESC should have solid red/green light showing. Repeat with the other ESC and test. Switch off and connect both escs via the Y lead. You can use one ESC to provide the rx power but do disconnect one red lead. Centre the tx throttle and trim and make sure you switch on the ESC with the BEC connected first. Hopefully both ESCs will now have solid red/green leds. I use three Mtronic ESCs with my RMS Olympic and had a very similar problem. I suspect the change from bench to water is more to do with stick/trim alignment and longer binding time due to other 2.4 Tx working in close proximity at the sailing site. I look forward to hearing your efforts next wednesday - hopefully the next hurricane will have passed by then.
[Score: 9/10] 60"/7600g Schooner - Comments: Scratch built with mahogany planks on the club's mould. Glass cloth and fibreglass inside and protected with G4 polyurethane resin all over. Uses a sail winch (Hitec) and travelling dolly for the two main sails and a separate arm servo for the foresails. Standard servo for the rudder. Power is from a 6.6v 1000mA LiFe battery. Taranis Tx using two sticks with the sail servos connected via an internal mixer to one stick. Ballast is fixed to the keel with two studs which extend into the hull where a steel bar is attached between both and acts as a carrying handle.
Hi reilly, Possible, but I would only expect the motor load current to decrease the RX sensitivity if the battery is almost flat and the extra load pushes it below the failsafe voltage limit. John has already confirmed that the battery is/was fully charged. Cheers Doug 😎 PS testing without BEC is a good idea as it would confirm or eliminate the possibility that the RX supply voltage is collapsing and causing a Failsafe condition. I prefer separate RX batteries anyway, fewer surprises😲! Except in the smallest Plastic magic projects where weight is critical.
Hello folks. Exciters not wired yet. I cannot see any markings on them to indicate which way to do it. RN is coming to my aid............ Battery fits there OK and for getting in and out, but may be a little heavy. The Boat in the bath does not show the waterline than well. Yes I do hope to have the Radar rotating and such a power units should be on its way. Re circuit board, I will look at that with your prompts in my hand and see how I fair. As you indicate, I would like to retain such as the present lighting, but do away with the receiver part. Cheers NPJ
Same as mine from HobbyKing, this type comes in various colours under various names but they are all made by Husang in China😉 You can also connect it between charger and battery to measure the charge (capacity in mAh) you've poked into the battery. This you can then compare with what is taken out again when running or testing motors. 👍
Hi al, jarvo's answer is more or less correct but not the whole story! Here is a reprint from my attempt to clarify various misunderstandings and misuse of terms related to batteries - usage and maintenance - posted to a thread "battery charging" you can find under 'General Sailing'. "Hi Both (and all other non-technical guys here!) (Dave_M please jump to the next post or topic!😉) To avoid further confusion amongst the non-technical members can we perhaps straighten out the technical terms involved in battery charging and use (strictly speaking the dimensions or quantities involved). mAh (milli-amphour) is a measure of the capacity of a battery: how many 1/1000 of an ampere (A) it can theoretically deliver in one hour, if in perfect fully charged condition and under perfect environmental conditions. (What you ain't never gonna get!) When the outside temperature drops so does the usable capacity 🤔 Charge and discharge rates are measured in ampere (A). under 1A the milliamp (1A/1000, unit mA) is usually used for convenience. Quality battery packs are marked on the case with maximum charge and discharge rates in A. Sometimes marked as xC/yC. xC is the MAX charge rate and means x times the nominal capacity/1000. yC is the MAX discharge rate (i.e. what your motors take) and often means y times the nominal capacity/1000. Sometimes the max discharge rate is given as a multiple of the max charge rate. See example in my photo. These are MAXIMUM warnings and NOT to be taken as the norm! See example in pic. Capacity 4000mAh = 4Ah, MAX charging current is 8A =2C, (4000/1000)x2. Half an hour charging gives then 8/2=4Ah. I would never ever charge at anywhere near this rate! Charging at 500mA (0.5A) for 8 hours (0.5Ax8h=4Ah) is perfectly adequate and much more gentle on the cells i.e. longer life 😉 MAX discharge current is given as 240A = 30 times max charge current or 60 times capacity in Ah.(4). If I used it at this rate it would probably be irreparably damaged (toasted) in just under a minute (0.9999r) 😡 If any Lixx pack gets HOT while charging or in use take it to recycling pronto, before it sets fire to your boat or workshop/house😡 ALWAYS MAKE CERTAIN THAT YOUR CHARGER IS SET FOR THE TYPE OF PACK YOU ARE USING, NicAD, NiMh, LiPo OR LiION etc (don't forget the balancer connection!). Sorry for teaching some 'grandmas' to suck eggs but having seen so many questions about battery charging and much misuse of the parameter units for batteries in the responses (as above) I felt it was time to clarify things for the non-technical among us, for their own safety and the health of their wallets!" Cheers Doug 😎
The basic of C rating is charge and discharge. ie 2200 mah X 25 max discharge, dont charge above 1amp as it will shorten the battery life and if you are getting close to the 50amp discharge the cells wont last long. The watt meter is fitted in line from the batteries to check what power you are drawing when sailing so giving you an idea about run time. The voltage beepers are needed to protect the cells from being discharged to far, below 3.3 volts and the cells can die. They are fitted into the dallance lead of each battery. There is a deal on ebay for Flurion 3s 2200 lipos £12-99 each i have 4 in use in my RAF Fire Tender with twin 700BB turbo motors, get about 15 mins at full throttle Mark
Tx Doug - Looks like another piece of kit to put on the shopping list. Previously had just used a charger from Component Shop and when the lights stopped "blinking" to me that was it. Nothing is ever that simple 😉