Cookies used in this website are gluten free, wheat free and dairy free. By using this website you agree to our use of cookies. More Info
Guest
Login Below
Join Us On Social Media!
   
Get The Model Boats App!
Apple App Store
Android app on Google Play


Help Support This Website
£
or enter custom amount

(Non Contributor)

Help support this free
website and donate.



£285 a year is needed to keep the website and apps online. Please consider donating £5 or more to help towards these fees.
All donations are securely managed through PayPal. Amounts donated are not published online.

Many thanks for your kind support.

Model Boats Website Team


Donation History
December 2017: 2 people
November 2017: 13 people
October 2017: 9 people
September 2017: 15 people
August 2017: 10 people
July 2017: 16 people
June 2017: 8 people
May 2017: 8 people
April 2017: 19 people


Unique Visitors This Month

Website Members

Terms and Conditions
Privacy Policy
Advertising
Contact


Model Boats Website
Active Users (10)
Login or Register
To Remove This Ad

Login or Register
To Remove This Ad
>> Home > Tags > battery

battery
battery life
battery mount
battery pack
battery power
battery voltage
batteries
battery
Moving onwards by Skydive130 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 8 hours ago
Hull formers in and setting. Duct finished and primed ready to recieve VW brilliant orange from a Halfords rattle can. Im scrapping the Depron cabin and making the sides from 1mm ply/2mm balsa lamination for extra strength. Not worried about the extra weight as on Palaforms site you can get a liteply cabin conversion. Infact, Im not too worried about the extra weight that will be added in the build as the manual does state that it maybe required to add extra weight in the form of a battery or similar for on water use in a breeze to prevent the craft flipping over. I shall be saving weight with my motor, esc, lipo combo anyway.

850 Brushless by canabus Admiral   Posted: 7 days ago
Hi Andy Slightly more power with a brushless motor is a no go!!! Brushless motors the same size are far more powerful !!! But, the about same RPM a Turnigy L5055-700kv(500 rpm more on a 4S(14.8 volts) Lipo battery would be a good replacement. Mind you at 1600 watts( about 2 and 1/4 HP) these will used in a large boat like a 46" Vosper Crash Tender or a 46" Sea Queen!!! My move into brushless motors I have found that they are 7 to 10 times more powerful and equal to, if not better than the old IC motors!!! My Sea Hornet, Sea Commander and Huntsman run brushless motors . My Crash Tender is getting the 5055 motor, so it will be interesting to see what it will go like!!

Motor problem by RichardSReade Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 8 days ago
Well today was the first chance I had to take the boat to Coate Water in Swindon to use their small boating area, which is weed free and only about 3ft deep, Video 1 shows the boat with two 7.2 volt batteries at the rear of the boat, video 2 shows the boat with the two 7.2volt batteries mid section just behind the motor, video 3 shows the baot with the 12volt L/Acid battery with the two 7.2 volt batteries in the section in front of the motor as ballast, vidio 4 shows the bat with one 7.2 volt battery mid section with one 7.2 volt battery front section as ballast. Sorry about the quality of the video's but I was on my own so had my phone on a small tripod. The motor got quite hot, so maybe the 56 mm three bladed prop is too much still and I suspect the angle of the prop maybe too great, although with the present prop I would not be able to move it much as there is only about 5 mm between it and the hull. I seem to have trouble with downloading the video's it keeps coming up with a message saying download failed, I have tried downloading just one, that fails as well, any idea's?

Power Cabling by NPJ Captain   Posted: 10 days ago
RN and others .............I have changed the fuse to 20 yellow for the battery and found it difficult! Are all the spade fuse holders as tight as mine? It took considerable force to remove the fuse from the holder and I wonder whether that is normal. I understand that looseness is not good but the force needed seems excessive and a threat to the circuit board etc. NPJ

Planking complete! by Skydive130 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 13 days ago
Finished “Costa” planking today and have put in most of the edge strip (need more strip, model shop Friday!). Jobs to do before I start the superstructure, finish laying out the RC components, fit rudder parts, make battery tray etc. Put in a 1/4 square strip around deck opening to prevent water ingress. Couple of coats of resin inside radio bay, 1 more outside, sand and prime. Sand, stain and yacht varnish deck. One question on a water pick-up as using a water cooled ESC! Outlet will be in the transom, does it matter where the pick-up is located?

Power Cabling by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 14 days ago
Hi Neil, How many fuses do you need??? Remember, wherever you put them you need easy access to be able to change a dud fuse without taking the million screws out and removing the whole deck.🤔 I'm considering using the space next to the repositioned battery, just behind the port propshaft hull exit. Another consideration is on your mounting plate forward, but NOT at the edges as you show in your photo cos you'll never get at them when the deck is on 😉 I'm thinking of a 'bridge' across the middle (above where you have the receiver in your photo) so that the fuses protrude above the main deck. Then you can get at 'em easy 😉 I will also save space by using a UBEC to tap off the drive batt for the RX supply instead of a separate RX battery. Pics tomorrow - I hope! Cheers Doug 😎

Power Cabling by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 14 days ago
Hi Neil, So far so good👍 I assume that the third fuse is for the battery lead. If so it should be 20A not 10, as you have 2 x 10A ESCs for the motors. Then if only one motor stalls and the fuse blows you can come home on the second motor. If the battery fuse is also 10A and blows as well then you're 'dead in the water' 😲 Cheers Doug 😎

Happy hunter by jarvo Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 15 days ago
The motor units are Robbe EF76 with fitted gearboxes, rated at 6 - 8volts, superb units and very reliable, did you strip and clean the gearboxes as well???? were the photos taken before you cleaned the motors??? The battery space looks to have been fitted with 4 x 6v 4ah batteries, probably giving 6v drive power, might have been 12v. Is there an ESC fitted?? that would give us the final key, apart from the red and black wire in the 4th photo is there any other wiring??? Mark

Happy hunter by spitfiresooty Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 15 days ago
these are the motors and gearboxes in the boat .They look in rough condition but after cleaning ,greasing etc run ok .The sapce that has been used for the battery seems to havebeen divided int o4 for some reason.I am trying decide what battery I need for this

Power Cabling by NPJ Captain   Posted: 15 days ago
So following a long away week-end of Astronomy, now trying to get a bit further before going away for a couple of days. As I start to wire up the power circuit I realise how important it is to think things through first! Made up the link from the Battery to a ‘choc block’ distribution point which for space reasons is under the ‘control’ platform which will fill the bow area. (Pic 1) The fuse boards were obtained from Component – shop.co.uk Ltd in Bangor which is a good source of all sorts of electrical bits for us and is in Wales! (Pic2) The Dual Esc/Mixer, from the same place, a P94 9Lite), I have secured with Velcro (Pic 3) and I hope to keep the battery on top of this with a little air gap. It is at this point that I really came to appreciate the space limitations (Pic 4) and I do not have the motors wired in yet which will have fuse boards on the ‘platform’. (Pic 5). Next time hope to wire in Motors and Fuse Boards, Sound Generator and Receiver. Then see how it sits in the bath.....! NPJ

NimH advice by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 15 days ago
Hi Alex They will be connected in series with the positive connected to the negative. I suggest you carefully cut off the heat shrink covering, taking care not to cut into the cells. You can then check each cells voltage. The nominal is 1.2v rising to 1.4v when charged. Any around 1v or less will never hold a charge so mark them with a marker pen. Hopefully it will be one of the end cells that has failed. On your type of pack the bottom of the battery (negative) will be in a metal case attached to the top (positive) of the next cell. I use a flat blade screwdriver to separate the cells (they are spot welded) and sometimes you can get the case off the bottom of the dud cell, leaving it attached to the positive of the next cell. I suggest you then charge the remaining good cells to see if they all take a full charge. If they are OK you can get a new cell or just make a lower voltage pack. I use a piece of stranded wire to repair the joint. You will need a 40+watt iron and some solder paste, and may need to scratch the battery case and pin for the solder to take. If you were careful with removing the heat shrink you can use it to cover the pack with a bit of electrical tape to make good. Please ask if you need any guidance with the process. I have been doing this for many years and may not have explained in enough detail if it's new to you. Do remember if the battery is charged it can short in its unwrapped state so do make sure you bench is uncluttered and kept clear of any metal objects. Good luck

NimH advice by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 15 days ago
Hi Alex Yes sounds like one cell has gone. You can probably feel the heat from the faulty cell after charging and discharging. If you are competent you could split the pack and identify the failed cell. A meter across each cell whilst running a small motor will show up any low voltage cells. Chances are the rest will be ok and will take and deliver a full charge. If so and you can use a soldering iron and can purchase replacement cells of the same make and capacity you could make the pack OK. I'd even consider rescuing all the good cells and making a lower voltage battery, 5 amp batteries being the price they are.

happy Hunter by jarvo Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 16 days ago
HI mate, can you post a picture or two of the motors, so we can identify them, give you an idea of battery needs as well Mark

happy Hunter by spitfiresooty Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 17 days ago
work on renovating my Happy hunter is progressing but I need to decide on the battery and make location for it in the hull so that I can get the right amount of ballast in before proceeding any further .The question is what battery to use .The Hull has 2 motors fitted with gearboxes ,I think the motors are 540,s but there are no markings on them.I am thinking a 12volt SLA battery but would welcome some advice

Sea Queen Prop Shaft by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 17 days ago
Hi Andy What size is your Sea Queen? Is it from a kit or a published plan? What particular motor, ESC, battery and prop size are you intending to fit? If the supplied prop shaft is true it should be OK. I suggest you test it by removing the inner shaft and rolling it on a piece of glass. Any bend will easily show and that shaft will be unusable for your purpose. As Jarvo says you can perhaps shorten the length. I have just looked on the Cornwall Model Boats site and they have 5mm prop shafts which may be a better quality than those you have and are supplied with the common prop threads. Modern prop shafts are much better than were available a few years ago and yes I still have (unfitted) the original aluminium and mild steel prop shafts for my Aeorkits Solent 48" lifeboat and they were both bent!