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>> Home > Tags > bearings

bearings
bearing
bearings
Propshaft Lubrication by onetenor Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 17 days ago
I used to use Liqui-Grease which was a clear liquid which solidified quickly leaving a grease filled whatever.I think it was silicone grease in a solvent which evaporated. No longer available as far as i can see but silicone grease diluted with meths might work. Great for chains and bearings on a bike so well enough for a little prop shaft. Very low drag too Seems to soften with movement.👍

Propshaft Lubrication by canabus Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 22 days ago
Hi All I use silicon tap grease as it's waterproof and add a bit more after each outing. Strip down, check for wear once a year and regrease. Started using Teflon bearings for the lower bearing which are holding up to the brushless motors. Canabus

steam water pump by GaryLCoupland Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi Rick, if you google TVR 1ABB steam engine, you will find a really neat and very good value for money steam engine. I'm afraid this is not cheap and around the £250 mark, mind it does have ball race bearings on the crankshaft. This comes as a kit of parts and you have to build it from scratch. when you have completed this task you will have a really good knowledge of exactly how a double acting slide valve engine works while putting this together, you can save up for a boiler to go with it, the instructions for building are very good almost idiot proof they must be as I have built several. Beautiful engine and powerful it will easily power a hull of one-meter length. Something to think about and Christmas is coming.

fuse holder by DodgyGeezer Lieutenant   Posted: 2 months ago
Depends how fast you want it to go! Electrical kit is either rated continuous or intermittent. Continuous ratings are usually conservative - you can exceed them somewhat - but they also assume decent cooling. The inside of a boat is usually sealed, and so is poor for cooling unless specific provision is made. Chinese ratings tend to be a bit unreliable - and watch out for cheap kit with phenomenal specs that are only achievable if you plunge them into liquid nitrogen! I typically run my 12v rated brushless motors at 7.2v. That way they just get a bit warm in a sealed boat and need no cooling. For brushed motors the brushes tend to be the weak spot if you put a lot of amps through them. Check your motors for heat after a run and you'll soon find out if you're mistreating them... If you're thinking about Taycols, the smaller ones were definitely brush-limited. Though the bigger ones are typically rated at 12v, the initial review for the Standard reckoned it could take 20v or more. Open frame motors are easier to cool. But I wouldn't like to guarantee the paxolin bearings if you did that...

Are these any good by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Mornin' John, (Well it is here!) I have something very similar and it works well, was using it tonight to make some test leads for Colins Taycol Supermarine, which is chuntering away behind me running in it's new bearings 😉 If you don't already have such a tool Go for it👍 Benefit of that one is that it has interchangeable heads for different sizes, Better 'n mine 😭 Cheers, Doug 😎

Wild Duck Sailboat article by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Mornin' John, Hows things 'Ol Mate'😉 Basically on a PC the 'Photos' App built into Windows 10 should do the job. Pic shows the opening window displaying the last photos I downloaded / Stored. i haven't experimented much with it yet but it should find any photos / pics on any drive, stick or memory card on your PC. If you are using a Smartphone I don't know, although most seem to have a 'Gallery' function built in! It will depend on which phone you have and which operating system it uses. Best thing to do there is look at the Apps already installed or in the Google or Microsoft App Stores. More later when I've fiddled with the 'Photos' App a bit more. Better shift to a new thread then as well, afore we're arrested for hijacking😲 (again😁)! At the moment I'm putting the finishing touches to Colin's Taycol Supermarine. Just reassembled it with new bearings and ran some tests using my prototype converter board. Runs fore and aft perfectly on a normal brushed ESC.😊 Will update the 'Supermarine Resurrection' blog shortly. All the best, Doug 😎

Wild Duck Sailboat article by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
Many thanks for the Snowberry tip John 👍 It's now your fault the Supermarine rebuild is delayed at least six months 😁😁😁 Actually although I have looked at several relevant build articles (without conversions to other navies configurations) I have done a bit on the rebuild. The new bearings have arrived and I've just arranged the fitting in one end plate. 😉 More soon, Cheers, Doug 😎

Neptun by Ron Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
[Score: 5/10] 36" Neptun Single Propellor (3 Blade) Geared Powered by NiMH (7.2v) Batteries - Comments: Under construction is this old kit recently given to me after sitting on the shelf for close to 15 years. No plans, no deck fittings, and other parts missing too. It needed a new speed control, motor with geared reduction, battery and the prop shaft bearings were seized requiring several hours of removal and replacement.

Rebuild starts by MouldBuilder Admiral   Posted: 3 months ago
Thanks Doug. Finally made a decision and bought the Raboesch RAB301-09 shaft with ball bearings. It comes in at 450mm but can be reduced to the required 350mm of tube length.😉

Rudders and Propellers by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
BTW; I copied your above massive text block into a document file and split it up into paragraphs so I could see where you're at! My conclusion: so far so good BUT! You made the one classic mistake of many model boat / ship builders 🤔 You continued the prop shaft tube right back to the propeller and hence you had to make oversize struts to support them. This is fundamental wrong and creates unnecessary work.😉 On real ships, including the Schnellboote, the so called 'stuffing tube' is JUST THAT, it 'stuffs' the shaft through the hull and includes stuffing glands to prevent the ingress of sea water. Outside the hull ONLY the rotating shaft itself continues on through the bearing in the support strut and to the prop. See attached pics of my HMS Belfast as an example. There was actually no reason for you to make oversize strut bearings, simply bushes to match your prop SHAFT not the tube would have been correct. Inside the real ship there is also NO TUBE, only bearings at suitable intervals. They look like gigantic versions of the big ends in your car. Imagine on really big ships, carriers, container ships, bulk tankers etc, with shaft diameters of 1metre or so how big the 'tube' would be, how much weight that would add and how difficult it would be to service and maintain! I've often noticed in posts here that folk confuse shaft and tube, often referring to the whole assembly as 'the shaft'. For convenience we modellers use prop tubes, who wants to fiddle about making a row of internal shaft bearings no one will ever see and will most likely never be really concentric? The downside is that continuing this 'convenience' outside the hull is wrong, adds weight and detracts from the scale appearance of the model. 😭 OK, it's 3am here now so - orf me 'obby 'orse and up (in my case down!) the wooden stairs to Bedfordshire, G'night all, cheers, Doug😎 Re shaft length: What fits fits, what don't don't! Such a question is like asking 'How long is a piece of string?'! If all three motors abreast won't fit you have to decide if the central motor should / will fit fore or aft of the outer motors. Then measure / adjust the shaft length accordingly. Before you start fitting the centre motor check what length shafts are commercially available and adjust your motor fit to suit. Otherwise make your own shafts and tubes to fit as required, as I've started doing cos I got fed up with 'standard sizes' wot don' wanna fit my ship. 🤔 G'night All, cheers, Doug 😎

Rebuild starts by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 months ago
I agree Colin, only I used a mini gas torch on it's smallest flame, with a damp cloth between the tube and boat and the flame angled away from the boat! twisted with mole grips and a sharp tap on the end with a tack hammer. Nothing too heavy!😲 Peter; take a butchers in the Raboesch catalogue for shaft tubes with real bearings. Sold by Cornwall Model boats and others. Otherwise knock the old bearings out using the old shaft and make / buy new bushes. Preferably sintered phosphor-bronze. The sintered metal absorbs and traps oil 😊 Cheers, Doug 😎

Rebuild starts by Colin H. Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 months ago
Is it possible to fit new bearings in the existing shaft tube, if not I have managed to get old shafts out by carefully heating the tube using a soldering iron inserted into the end and as it heats up applying rotational force gently back and forth until the the glue gives way. This has worked for me on wooden hulls. Cheers Colin.

Rebuild starts by MouldBuilder Admiral   Posted: 4 months ago
I was hoping to get some help. I am considering changing the prop shaft for a much stronger one. I am concerned that the existing 35 year old unit with plastic bearings might not stand up well to the new 1485 motor running at 22,000 rpm potentially, I think.🤓 Is there a method to removing old shafts without damaging the hull. If this is thought to be a viable proposition, please could I have recommendations for a 13" shaft with suitable bearings. Thanks. Peter.😉

BRAVE BORDERER by jbkiwi Commander   Posted: 4 months ago
I've used small brass shafts in brass bushed tubes with oilers in my MTB and they've lasted for 20yrs of average use, although they get a bit noisy when short of oil. Best would be brass shafts in brass tubes with Teflon/Nylon/ bronze etc bushes (a center bush as well if poss - have used these in ic power boats for years with hard steel shafts for the power). Brass is good as it's self lubricating to a degree and with a good quality oil can run quite smoothly and quietly, and is very simple, and when looked after won't corrode like steel or miniature ball or roller bearings (unless stainless).

Taycol Supemarine Resurrection by Colin H. Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 months ago
Look on ebay. Oilite bearings. Sorry for the mistake in the spelling, fingers bigger than the keys. Cheers Colin