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So here we go again! I have decided to give other projects a rest for a time in favour of this little gem. Pick up off eBay for less than £100 NIB posted, couldnt resist! Its the Dumas (kit no:1203) 44' Coast Guard Lifeboat. I dont know if this kit is still produced by Dumas and having looked at the Die cutting of the parts, certainly seems like an old kit? However, I love my building and the challenges, so I am sure it will turn out nice at the end. Finished length 33". I shall be converting this to a RNLI Waveney Class Lifeboat and will possibly go with 44-003 named "Khami" which was based in Great Yarmouth and Gorleston, which is local to me here in Suffolk. Sadly very little turns up on this boat via Google, but at some stage may pop out to the Great Yarmouth Lifeboat station and see if I can hunt anymore info on her. I shall not be using the recommended Dumas running gear for 2 reasons, 1st its a geared set-up (I am going with MFA540 brushed direct drive) and the cost of over £150! Photos show the box artwork, plans and the included wood. Last photo shows my electrics less propshafts and props that are on order. Note the Star Wars 3.75" figures that with poetic licence could be painted to represent crew. However, at this point the model is approx 1;16 scale and the figures would be 1:18 scale so maybe too small. There are 1:16 scale lifeboat figures available but pricey? My one issue at this point is going to battery choice? do I go with a small 6v lead acid or perhaps 2 Tamiya type 7.2v NIMH in series. anyone who has built anything like this may want to advise. LIPO not an option as the Mtroniks ESC do not support LIPO. Space inside the hull may also be an issue? Another issue is going to be fabricating some propshaft struts for the rear next to the props. There is quite a bit of prop shaft exposed outside the hull, so these would be integral to support and strength of the propshafts. Is there anything available off the shelf (they are included in the running gear set, but dont seem to be available on there own) of do I need to fabricate from brass tube and sheet/strip brass?
Tug Brooklyn comes with a temporary boat stand, included in the kit. It's OK for building the kit. but not for full time use! A wood stand should be created! oh, the Tug Jersey City didn't come with a boat stand! just the outline drawn on paper! Made mine out of form!
As to where you could get it from. Cornwall model boats sell a good selection of wood for building or decking. Including a lot of nice exotic timbers which will give lovely decking patterns. As to what. I would use 1/8th inch or 1/4 inch square for the stringers in spruce. Hope that helps. Kindest wishes, Dave W 😊
I really like your work done on this boat. How did you go about building it from scratch? By scratch, does this mean making all the parts? I built the 1/72 Airfix kit painting it like you have here. I like that you have also included the side hatch where the wounded could be transported on stretchers. I will send some photos of my kit, but I ‘d enjoy seeing more of this boat you made. Best regards, Ron
Ok, plans didn’t quite work out on hours on the boat over the last couple of weeks. I got the chine stringers fitted on 18 Jan, 30 mins soak and then about an hour’s work to get them properly in place pinned, on the inside lamination only, and glued. Deck supports fitted too. Spent the weekend helping my daughter move house so no boat action. On 22 January, Tom Foster, aka Boatshed, did me a massive favour by finding a copy of the Model Boat Magazine from June 2012, and scanning the pages with a review of the kit I’m building. You’re a legend Tom, thanks. I spent the next couple of days busy watching Bristol City, working and ordering the ESC, Mtronics Marine 25, some Eze Kote to seal the insides, once done, and ordering primer and paint having chosen my colour scheme. I did another 30 mins sorting out the cabin roof and rails on 24 January. Chamfered the rebates ready for fitting the hull bottom maybe an hour.
Laser cut kit from Barracuda RC Boats, N Carolina, USA. Baltic birch plywood false keel, ribs/frames, hull sheathing, deck and cabins. No formal plans; I was able to source a handful of B&W archival photos from the USCG website. Fortunately I was able to procure a motherload of archival photos and a few hard to read layout drawings from Mr. Timothy Dring, LCDR, USN (Ret.). He is co-author of "American Coastal Rescue Craft", which is the "bible" if you will, of such. I do sometimes thank the internet. I am certain that without his assistance, my efforts on this wouldn't have been as enjoyable. The kit was also void of fittings, which I was aware of prior to purchase, so I invested in a 3D printer. That I've used to a limited degree, due to searching for parts in the correct file format is mind-numbing! I have globally sourced fittings; USA, UK, ASIA. As a matter of fact, the searchlights I got from this Model Boat Shop were 3D printed, and I was able to fit 5mm LEDs into them. I'd like to get a couple more and put some superbright 12v LED drone lamps in them for use on my 35" towboat. Many deck fittings are handmade when possible, the cleats and fairleads are from Cornwall Boats, UK. (Very reasonable & diverse source, if you didn't already know.) I try to keep wood natural when detail allows it, as I never have enjoyed painting over natural grain. Her decks are covered with 1/16" scribed basswood sheathing from earthandtree.com, which is normally used for wainscoting dollhouse walls. All my boats that have wood decks are covered with scribed sheathing; I feel it makes 'em look "sexy". Believe it or not, the idea for wainscoting came from finding 3/16" at Hobby Lobby's dollhouse department. A couple of feet x 3.5" was about $16, so I found a less expensive source that also had more selections (earthandtree.com) The rail stanchions are 3/16" square dowels with 2 corners rounded over on the Dremel router table. Leaving their base square, I fit a square peg into a round hole with no glue to facilitate removal, and also for ease of replacing broken ones, which is inevitable. The rail is 1/16" brass rod that also is readily removable. The stern rail is stationary on the lower half, and the chain & wire stanchions are removable for towing ops. The deck coamings and knuckle are African mahogany strips, other mahogany accents came from leftovers of a prior build. I also try on all my boats, to incorporate vintage leftover scribed sheathing salvaged from my late Father's builds, so I know he's got a part in my builds. Note-the raised deck section between the aft ladder trunk and towing bit is actually a laminated deckhouse he made for the Frigate Essex. Unfortunately, he was unable to build that kit due to Alzheimer's disease in his latter years. (I blame that mostly on the hazardous fumes from the airplane "dope" & glue he used when building RC planes in the 60s & 70s.) I use polyurethane instead of resin due to COPD, 37 yrs of smoking, I quit 2.5 yrs ago. The driveline consists of: 775 Johnson DC main (3500 RPM@12V), Harbor Models 4mm x 14" shaft w/brass stuffing box, Raboesch 75mm 5-blade brass wheel (not OEM), 5mm U-joint couplers, Dimart 320A fan-cooled ESC. Handmade wooden teardrop rudder on a 3/8" sternpost, 1/4" tiller arm steered by a Halcion sail winch servo and cable system. Flysky 6 channel. The nav lights and other illumination are Lighthouse 9v LEDs, also a GoolRC Receiver controlled flashing blue Law Enforcement light. Obviously, I put the cart before the horse and completed the topsides and below deck before finishing the outer hull, but the Wx and season change dictated such. Can't wait for Spring!
Props by ChrisG Chief Petty Officer Posted: 2 months ago
Hello Doug I very rarely get my boats wet so the self righting will hopefully not be an issue and as I have had the bath taken out of my house the model when complete will not even get the old bath test. I have twin 540's linked to the 40mm three bladed props and as you rightly say experimenting with thee boat on the water will give me the most acceptable set up. Your recommendation of the Component Shop P94 would seem ideal and reading the spec. it answers several other questions, I am not particularly electrically or technically savvy you will have noticed. I must admit I prefer building with wood to plastic and P38, old fashioned, me, of course.😉 Regards Chris G
Props by ChrisG Chief Petty Officer Posted: 2 months ago
Hello Doug Thanks for all of the useful information and yes it is a 'Black Art' and I have been party to some heated debates regarding props on large passenger carrying boats. I was highly amused by the link to 'Raboesh' which if it wasn't a Chinese company should have been. The model I am building is a Rother class lifeboat which will have twin props and a single rudder and I have read that due to the limited swing of the rudder the turning circle of the boat is much improved by having independently powered motors. Not at that stage yet still early days of the build. Thanks again and best regards Chris G
Hi Roy, Happy New Year 😉 Twin screw rotation is case of 'Horses for courses'! It's a Black Art and much depends on the hull shape, especially at the stern and the orientation of the rudders to the shaft lines. What you write is correct for slow, short fat displacement hulls, like tugs and rig supply ships etc needing good slow speed manoeuvrability. Especially those with one rudder per shaft. For long thin hulls (naval ships) and deep V and planing hulls (Fast launches and power boats etc) inboard turning screws are preferred to concentrate the thrust behind the centreline of the hull instead of dissipating it out into the open water. It also concentrates the thrust onto the rudder when only one rudder is fitted on the centreline. Outboard turning screws tend to push the stern up and bow down. Inboard turning tends to suck the stern down and raise the bow. So making planing easier. You only made one mistake in your description: "when using the props to assist a turn, i.e one prop turning clockwise and the other anti-clockwise". The props turn in opposite directions when both are running ahead, or both astern. When turning, one ahead and one astern they then both turn the same way thus producing the combined side thrust. I was advised to use inboard turning props on my H class destroyer (twin screws single rudder) by an ex RN Captain I met at the local lake here in Munich about 30 years ago! @ Chris: What type of boat / ship are you building? Cheers Doug 😎
Colin - it's a difficult one as obviously it's a completely different matter working on a build compared with a completed boat i.e. you don't have anywhere to grip/attach to a completed hull etc. I was looking at a building board/jig for my builds (over a smaller range compared with your builds i.e. 23" to 33") but decided in the end that it was better to just use a good thick MDF board and temporarily fix the keel and a temporary spine along the top of the frames to it. But it sounds like you have already found what suits your needs but it needs making out of some stronger material? What about making it out of thick aluminium or even getting it cut out by an engineering company? Would be worth the cost if you are going to get a lot of use out of it? Chris
Is there a way to build an adjustable base board that would suit boats of sizes 24" to 60" ( not sailing boats). I have plenty of room to store it, but not sure how I go about building one. All suggestions gratefully received.
Hi Chris, Hi Mark, "the flatter the better" is absolutely right to get more forward thrust and less forward pitch which pushes the bow down. My concern is using the keel as the datum line! Is the keel line parallel with the actual waterline when the boat is at rest? I doubt it, maybe - maybe not. I try to measure against the waterline in order to obtain the maximum forward thrust from a standing start. Chris: I am also very interested to know where you got the digital angle device. I have something similar but it's for building fitted cupboards and such and much too big for model stuff🤔 Merry Christmas all, Doug 😎
BRAVO ZULU SIR! I CAN RELATE, AS I GOT THIS BILLING BOATS USCG 44' MLB KIT IN 1989 BEFORE MY DAUGHTER, AND AFTER A LONG FORCED HIATUS, RESUMED BUILDING IN 2015. I'M OVERHAULING, BASICALLY, NEW PAINT & ELECTRONICS. MY PERPETUAL WORK IN PROGRESS, LIKE MY KID I RECKON.