Winter used to be model railways and slot cars. Now just slot cars and small scale static boats, 1/48th scale. I always promised myself a collection of 1/4"-the foot inshore craft. I really can't be doing with the over-pensioned old fools who spend a fortune on some very average kit and another on wheels and gearbox, motor, building, painting, lining, weathering, blah, blah and finally bragging about on forums. Kit snobbery is not only annoying, but to a scratchbuilder like me it is utterly stupid and pointless. And as a model railway club near me now charges 100 quid to join and still only turns out a glorified toy train set, it is, alas, no longer a hobby for me. We have a sign on our wall that says, "The more I learn of people, the more I love my dogs". QED. Martin
Oliver Tiger and Gannet? Oh be still my beating heart! I remember seeing a Gannet and a Channel Island Special at Victoria when I was a kid with my Dad. Even he was impressed. And Olive Cockman had a Westbury Seal she'd built herself and fitted in a large cruiser, which she used for straight running and steering, where you nominated a spot on the lake side and set off your model with a fixed rudder. The nearer you got to your nominated spot the more points you got. Never hear of it these days. R/C doesn't appeal to me apart from steering a yacht, although free-sailing is still appealing to me. I have engines, but I haven't got any in a boat as I could never get the things to start. I just like having them around and running them screwed to an outbuilding, when they'll run! I can't be doing with all the fuss of LiPos and charging them properly. Too expensive, so it's NiMhs for me, charged in a wall charger. but it's really building stuff I like to do. Martin
Yes I've decided to sell most of my I.C. Boats and engine, because of this "nanny state" that we live in now. Probably 95% of clubs and sailing waters in my area(Liverpool) stipulate No I.C.s, l'm not traveling 50 miles to sail when in reality I've got several clubs and lakes within 5 to 10 miles from my home. I started model boat building in the 50s with balsa models and on to "aerokits" sea urchin, scout, rover, commander, and the holy grail the sea queen all of which had diesel or petrol engines. Granted we have come a long long way since then with electric and brushless motors, I do use them in both planes and boats, but there is still something to be said for the sound smell and reality of an I.C.engine in a boat, aircraft aren't to bad at the present, until they ban them to. Sorry for the rant but that's the way I feel.😭
Gwylan by Nerys Chief Petty Officer Posted: 1 month ago
[Score: 8/10] 20"/1700g Gwylan Capable of 3mph and a runtime of 40mins Single Propellor (3 Blade 15mm) Direct Drive Powered by NiMH (6v) 2Amp/h Batteries - Comments: This was my first attempt at building a model boat, decided that model boat building would be a suitable hobby for a lady of 85, no longer fit enough to sail real boats.
Yikes Frodo, I have just measured my plank lengths and indeed they are shorter than the hull approx. 90-100cm!! Considering two kits are identical this must be the intention of billing boats. Has anyone got and advice on this? I was thinking that it might be best to split the plank in half, glue the bow and stern ends first, then glue a plank section in the middle area? "We could do with some help here chaps". Another thing Frodo, do not try and fit the M500 motor I have!! (please see photos), stick with the M400 its smaller. As you can see in the photos my battery will not fit....GULP. Does anyone know if there is a smaller battery out there? The one I have is a 4405385 (Cornwall model boats P/N) 7.2V 3300 H. One other thing Frodo "DO NOT" fit the metal rudder post & item 16, if you do you will not get your inner prop shaft into the tube. The only way to do this would be to remove the motor. Probably best to leave the rudder & item 16 until you have fitted the motor & battery. Also I am finding the space in the hull is very limited for radio control, choose your equipment wisely. I am now thinking I must ditch the M500 motor for the M400 and then look at alternative battery size. After building the Boulogne-Etaples this St Canute kit is extremely challenging. Anyone out there with some suggestions would be a great help....kind of sinking here a bit (a few photos attached) Frodo if you have any further questions please let us know. Cheers Richard.
Thinking of a future project and decided upon another launch type vessel. My earlier Daman 4207 project gave an interesting model with good performance. The Brave class of FPBs (Fast Patrol Boats) caught my attention. Can remember the incredible performance they offered when entering service. Only two of the class were used by the RN, although variants were used by other navies. Have decided to use proprietary Glass fibre hulls in future as they probably cost little more than building from scratch using wood and resin. They give a robust and watertight hull, but one which still requires thought to complete properly. There are several companies that offer a “Perkasa” hull, a Brave class derivative with an almost identical hull. From previous experience have decided to limit my models to 40” long, larger vessels become difficult to transport and handle. After much research considered the hull offered by MTB Hulls in Gibraltar met my requirements best. The inquiry to MTBHulls was well handled; the quotation acceptable, so placed an order. Was pleasantly surprised at the shipping costs. From the UK these often approach the cost of the hull, but from Gibraltar they are much more reasonable. Delivery only took 7 days.
I am a returner to boat building after 45 years and have always used marine ply for the construction of all parts of my models. I am currently building the 46" crash tender ( I have a current Build Blog) and whilst browsing this site I see many people using plasticard for their construction, can anybody list the pro's and cons of this material eg 1 cost 2 ease of cutting plasti V ply eg circular saw, filing, knife cutting, bending/forming 3 gluing issues 4 paint preparation 5 gluing to other materials 6 overall which do people prefer
Hello everyone, I am a new member I joined last week, I did write a post about my current model, the Billing Boats St Canute. However I am not sure if I posted this correctly, basically I am having a problem with fitting a M500 to this kit, did anyone see this? I have 3 other boats that I have completed Billing Boats, The Norden, Boulogne Etaples and the Aero-Naut Diva. I started boat building when I retired in 2016.....I look forward to hearing from you chaps....Richard7
Good to see a model of the Higgins PT Boat and a scratch built one at that. I had a Revell 1.72nd one back in 1961 when I was 9 but these became eclipsed the following year when the PT 109 film was released. Love the background music and your sailing water in Albert Park. The boat looks so realistic and you've now got me thinking of building one. Never yet seen a model of a Huckins P.T boat. Is there anyone out there who has built one? Long live the plywood dream. BOATY😁
I named my shed, The Boat Shed. Its a brick built building 13 ft x 10 ft. It was here when we moved here. And that's where I used my name from on here. So yes you are correct. The last 2 I bought were a RTR Proboat Miss Geeco and a Graupner Rhode Island F1 tunnel hull ARTR.
I still have a 34" Raf crash tender still unbuilt that I bought back in 1994 when they released a run of 50 on the 50th anniversary of the model in the Model Boats magazine. I also have a Vosper 46” RAF Crash Tender Kit By Vintage Model Works sitting in my shed. One day I will get around to building them Along with restoring my Sea Hornet, Sea Commander, Sea Queen and my Huntsman along with several other boats, including an MFA Spearfish and a Stratos Interceptor, Hydrofibre Pipedream both of which were the same company just that they had a change of name. Along with at least 3 others. I will do them sometime.
I Have just joined the Darlington & District Model Boat Club on Wednesday 14th March 2018. What a great bunch of lads. The club house is on the sites of a Victorian former reservoir which is about 88m x 85 m and about 2m deep. The water is accessible all the way round and has launching area on one side. The club house is a brick building with a meeting room, toilet, storage area and a building/repair area. Sailing/meetings are on: Wednesdays 9.00am -16.00 Sunday 8.00am - mid day. Membership fee is £50 Per year adult and £5 for a junior. This includes Third party public liability insurance very important and often overlooked. Location The Waterpark, Middleton St George, Darlington, Co. Durham DL2 1JG
Hi Skydive, agree, for your purposes on a scale displacement hull the struts aren't that structurally important. You shouldn't get significant whip if she's scale-powered. Re your A/C experience - might be calling on you soon wrt my Catalina and a Carson convertible Boat / Stub Wing / Delta Wing creation! 😉 Fancy a short break in Munich for Flying instruction???😁 Happy building, and sailing when spring finally comes, our spring was from Saturday until today, from Friday the forecast is freezing temps (-8°C😡) and more snow! Ciao Doug 😎
I'm with you there Skydive 👍What Boatshed means is the part of the rudder in front of the stock. Thinks: are you building an Offshore Power Boat or a scale Lifeboat? If the former then follow Boatshed's recommendation. If the latter and the rudder is 'scale' then leave it alone. Any braking effect, which usually is only significant in a fast racing boat model or other fast planing types, can be diminished by reducing the rudder servo throw at the TX. One should also consider how the original behaved, maybe they did 'dig in' maybe not. There has to be a reason why such rudders were developed, and surely not just to annoy modellers 😁 One more minor point that struck me - Ouch 😭 Your prop struts! "not that it provides a huge amount of support but adds to the scale appearance." Even in a model they can be important. To help reduce potential whipping of the propshaft, especially if the model is overpowered. Actually in the originals they were vital, especially in larger vessels. The purpose of these struts, in larger vessels 'A' frames, is to provide support to the end of the shaft which carries the prop weighing several tons and, more important, to carry the bearing for the outer end of the shaft! Actually in the originals the shaft tube, or 'Stuffing Box' would not extend significantly beyond the hull. Thus the strut or A frame was vital for the shaft end bearing, fitted immediately in front of the prop for maximum stability. Attached pics of my HMS Belfast (sorry don't 'ave nutt'n smaller with this feature🤔) show the arrangement. Have witnessed such construction in various shipyards around the world. Last one in UK was the first T45, quite an experience! 😲 In the end she's your boat, if it feels good do it! 😉 I would leave the rudder alone if it is 'as fitted'. 👍 I make my struts and A frames from brass sheet and tube. Cheers Doug 😎 PS Stick with the brass Donnie! 👍