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>> Home > Tags > boat house

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Julieth 4 French fishing boat by canabus Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 6 days ago
Hi All As the owner of two Hellen fishing boats, I was looking for something with better access, but, about the same size. I found the French version of the Hellen. Larger hatch and a raised section forward of the wheelhouse. Also this is my first strip planked boat, I picked up an IKEA wooden blind for $5au with a 100 strips of 3mm by 25mm and 1100mm long. Canabus

Darby One Design hydro... by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 23 days ago
Dowty Turbocraft was smiled upon by Donald Campbell as a service vessel after he'd used Albatrosses. It's thought it was a bit of wash from the Dowty that caused his final crash. i I used to have a Mk 1 Albatross, Hull 137, but nI couldn't use it anywhere fast due to river speed limits, so I flogged it. It was all riveted aluminium, made by ex Spitfire makers. The countersunk rivets, after over 50 years were so well applied you just couldn't see them. Amazing craftsmanship, but when they were first on sale, they were the price of a small house! I paid rather less, rebuilt the engine, repainted it and flogged it for a lot more, then made a 1/6th scale model of it and sold that to a man who owns most of the boathouses round Windermere. A Ford 1172 sidevalve engined boat would tow 2 water skiers amazingly. There's a website called Old Speed Boats that deals with Dowty Turbocraft well. Cheers, Martin

ASR 64ft R/C VID 2 by jbkiwi Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 27 days ago
Boat is Scratch built 36" British Power Boat 64ft High Speed ASR Launch which belonged to the RNZAF. The launch was one of the 22 built and was shipped to NZ in 1940. It was the only one of its type in the Southern Hemisphere. Model has twin motors, ESCs, sound units etc. Has remotely switched water pump for water cooled brushless 2000kv in runner motors and remotely switched lighting. Uses 2x 2200mah 2s LiPos for drive and 1 1800mah LiPo for the pump (also a separate battery for the LED lights. Boat is built with strip planked balsa on ply frame and fiber glassed. Deck is ply, wheelhouse is varnished balsa. The colour is as it was for most of its time in the RNZAF . Took about 5 years on and off to build and finished it last year. (please ignore the time date - can't get rid of it .

LED Tug Mast Navigation Lights by pittsfieldpete Lieutenant   Posted: 1 month ago
Doug: I feel like a dunce for not noticing that anchor before. It sticks out like a sore thumb if you know where to look. That’s another thing that I’m surprised hobby engine didn’t add to the boat. I guess in the long run it was easier for moldmaking purposes to omit that particular detail. That’s another thing, however, that wouldn’t be all that hard to scratchbuild. All that’s needed is to cut an opening in the bulwark & build a sheet styrene box for the housing. It’s not exactly a high priority item, but I think it would go a long way toward adding realism. So far none of the photos of the Wyforce I’ve seen show what the anchor enclosure looks like on the inside of the bulwark. Then again maybe some of them did & I missed that, too. I assume there’s an anchor winch, possibly below deck near the chain locker. I expect there’s a “drop/raise” button inside the pilot house. I’ll browse for a photo of the anchor & post it if I succeed. Thanks

LED Tug Mast Navigation Lights by pittsfieldpete Lieutenant   Posted: 1 month ago
Hi, Doug: I hope all is well. FYI, I’ve received all but one of my parts orders needed for the LED Mast Light project. The flat top LEDs arrived today & will be perfect for Nav lights. I don’t know if I mentioned this before, but a while ago I decided that instead of starting work right away it would be best to wait until everything I need for the project is on hand. While waiting for parts to arrive (& mysterious eye infections to clear up) I looked the boat’s Cabin & Pilot House over & made a list of details I want to add, changes or replace, not least of which is the conspicuous absence of a towing winch. Other things like adding a life raft canister, better looking life rings, fire extinguishers, etc. will come later, after completing the Mast LED Nav lights & wiring changes per your design. This brings me back around to a wiring question. Some time ago we discussed using a common ground bus inside the Mast & soldering each of the six “-“ leads to it rather than using six wires to do the same job. I plan to put a plastic divider piece up the middle of the Mast & run the six “+” LED wires on one side. The other side will have the bare ground bus onto which the “-“ leads of each LED will be soldered. The question is: what gauge should the bus be? I was thinking of using a length of brass rod but I don’t know what diameter to use. What do you think? Thanks, Pete

PBR - Patrol Boat Riverine by SGray Petty Officer   Posted: 1 month ago
Proboat Alpha - ready to run, model of PBR, Patrol Boat Riverine, used by US Navy during Vietnam conflict, served 1967 -1972. Images show basic detail, 1/18 scale, with crew. Bow gunner servo is linked to rudder. Comes with Navlights, looking forward to a night sail.....some painting added to weather craft, as well as painting radar housing a lighter grey....and the canvas roof over wheel house....a little artistic licence with vessel numbers......Brown Navy did'nt always have numbered vessels....but could'nt help myself. Bravo Zulu Chaps😉

Not permitted by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
[Score: 5/10] 27"/500g Not permitted - Comments: 2nd Riva Aquarama Special in 1/12th scale built entirely from scratch for private customer (owner of real boat). OK I bought the left and right hand props from the Prop Shop and the glasses on the cocktail tray from a doll house supplier. Made in Venice! Each Riva took just over 700 hours to make from stolen works drawings!

Spektrum, new, useless... by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
Yep, he done good, did the Naval man in Munchen. I'm in his debt and if I use the TX to fly I promise I'll insure myself, but I ain't joinin' a club unless the local one is as cheap as someone recently suggested. And the only decal on my wings will be the SMAE, if I have to hand paint it! Now...back to boats. Tis my birthday and my dear bride bought me a set of the old Yeoman white metal fittings for my Crash Tender, so now the kids have departed I will have a wee clean up of them. Then, a Chicken Achar from the new Indian restaurant. A bonus is that she also bought me a pack of 20 beautifully made turned brass portholes, glazed, that I've just realised will fit the Crash Tender wheelhouse. Result...I HATE glazing portholes. I did 9 on a scratchbuilt canal boat and it drove me nuts. 4 down, 16 to put back in storage, the last of Modelling Timbers' stock of them and the manufacturer no longer does em. Martin

LED Tug Mast Navigation Lights by pittsfieldpete Lieutenant   Posted: 3 months ago
Hi, Doug: Thank you once again for answering my questions. I especially like your response & comments about HE tug’s factory-installed motors. I think the “heart of the machine” for my tug is perfectly fine. I’d rather add detail to the model, over time & within reason, to make the boat look as realistic as possible without becoming so delicate that I’d be afraid to put it in the car for a drive to the lake. Continuing on, I’d like to get your comments about my latest idea for adding connectors to the wiring that runs from my tug’s circuit board to the various lights & components in the deck house & pilot house. This is something I can do with or without my proposed new LED Mast Navigation Lights to add the convenience of being able to completely disconnect & separate the Deck House/Pilot House from the circuit board/Deck House bottom cover assembly. This will make detailing the upper works much easier because it won’t be tethered to the circuit board by (16) wires. The circuit board holes where the (10) Search Light, Port & Starboard Sidelight & Aft Deck Light wires are soldered are equally spaced at 0.10” (2.5mm). I can tag & desolder the wires, insert a 10-pin HS male socket & solder it to the board. Then I can connect the wires to the male plug. I can do the same thing with the (6) wires that run to the Pilot House Light, Smoke Generator & Smoke Pump. What do you think? If you find that powering & controlling the new LED Navigation Lights on the Mast the way I’d like to can’t be done, the circuit board connectors still make sense. Or am I AWOL from reality...again? Thanks, Pete

Vinyl lettering by Manofkent Petty Officer   Posted: 3 months ago
With the demise of Barry's Model Lettering, where can one get lettering for RNLI lifeboats? Whilst BECC do the Bliss Yellow for the stern lettering and also the Bliss shadow to make up name plates their lettering packs are still in the old font of Arial and for the bow and Wheelhouse roof legend it needs to be in Bliss Bold. Any ideas. I have contacted Dawson signs and Stickylettering but neither can/will do in Bliss font.

Cabin roofs by mturpin013 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
Theoretically this should be a very straight forward process and a change from rubbing down the hull so let’s look at the instructions – what instructions! First of all fit some thin card to the sides of the cabin walls to allow for a clearance fit (cornflakes packet) then some minor trimming of the spars to give an exact ,(not tight) fit across the side supports, I decided to pin each of the parts together as well as epoxy in the joints. I always find the best approach is to use a jig to drill pilot holes for the pins ensuring that the pins do not split the wood and the construction is accurate. The frame is then glued up and placed back in the boat and left to dry next job is to fit the corner strengthening pieces, the easiest way I found was to put a card support for the corners to rest on whilst they set still in the cabin structure. Looking forward I had decided to retain the cabin lids with Neodymium magnets so I machined a slot in the corner pieces underside to house the magnets, to be fitted at a later date. Next job is to fit the roof skins which again will be pinned using the 0.7mm brass pins. The roof skins are now epoxied in place so I need to mark out the position of the secondary panels. Looking at the pieces and the instructions the spacer frames seem to be the same size but I was sure I’d read somewhere that these overhung by 2-3mm, reading Robs blog conformed this to be the case. So some trimming required before fitting and marking out the appropriate position then being glued into position. The mid cabin was assembled in exactly the same way

LED Tug Mast Navigation Lights by pittsfieldpete Lieutenant   Posted: 4 months ago
Hey Doug! I’ve finally finished the long-awaited sketch! I’m sorry it took me so long but I had to work under very adverse conditions. Nearly every time I sat down to work on it one of my wife’s friends would drop in for a visit & there isn’t enough light in the closet to sketch by. Anyway, the sketch is attached. I verified that all four of the boat’s exterior lights are LEDs. The pilot house interior light is a light bulb as I’ve said before. You asked before if it’d be possible to replace the bulb with an LED. It can be done so I noted the bulb’s supply voltage on the sketch, too. Both wires running to the bulb are white (labelled “WHT” on the sketch). The Aft Deck light LEDs look crystal-clear when they’re turned off, but when they’re turned on they light up yellow! I didn’t expect that because the Port & Starboard Sidelight LEDs are red & green respectively when they’re turned off. The Search Light LED is clear when it’s off & white when it’s on. I hope the sketch is helpful. As I said in my last post I couldn’t get the voltage readings on the SMD resistor inputs, but I wrote their 3-digit numbers & my stab at their values in my last post, too. I hope the nomenclature I used on the sketch is somewhat like what you’re used to. Being a mechanical guy I never did any electrical or electronics drawings so I just took a stab at it for the sketch. If you have questions or need anything else just ask. Thanks again, Pete

Spektrum, new, useless... by onetenor Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 months ago
In view of the age of the Tx has corrosion of terminals or wiring been considered. So called "black wire " corrosion can creep under insulation and cause breaks. I would open the case and check continuity of wires and everything else I could and clean the terminals. Could be that simple.Maybe spot of switch cleaner or just WD40 on switches and contacts. OR all over. It worked for my two Futaba T6 x's One of which is the 5oth Rip Max anniversary one. They had been in a nice dry ,clean garage, for 8 yrs, but there was still a little corrosion present on the terminals I have yet to test the Rx's and servo's as a few days after obtaining the models I became unable to get int my workshop.I was given such a lot by this lovely widow and her lovely .daughter. They wanted nothing for all the kit and models they gave me and I felt very guilty as I had only taken a tenner with me.Mum wanted them just to a good home and wanted nothing for them. End result she said she would put the cash to a charity of her choice.There was so much stuff and models and unused kitsI could barely close the back of the car. Oh yes there was a boat amongst them. That lives in the house on it's display stand. It is a customs launch made from a plastic kit by all appearances nicely finished in Royal blue and white. Small brushed motor with two 7.4 Nimh batteries packs.One in either bilge for balance. In contrast all the electrics in this "Futaba,"3 Channel, were clean and all worked perfectly. A bit odd but the Tx was kept in it's box so maybe that made the difference? Sorry to hi-jack the thread but it was to illustrate the point about potential corrosion. Oops a pun😁 Apols mods😊

Sea Scout 'Jessica' Sea Trial - at last! by MouldBuilder Captain   Posted: 4 months ago
So, that is where the 50Cal guns are supposed to be😁 Looks like a similar project to mine. I could sail close by but I would be alone. The local club closed years ago and the pond they used is now a no go zone for boats. The river at my house has no flow as such. It is a tributory of the Danube which has a barrier at each end. The total length, about 15 miles, is a nature reserve and the water level is adjusted to keep it constant.The ripples are caused by the wind. The flip was caused by a bad Captain......probably.😊

54 year old Crash Tender by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 months ago
Boaty, it's amazing how many people HAD Taycol motors, but don't anymore, apart from our chum Doug in Munich. And I'll pick his brains later maybe for info on controlling the Taycol Supermarine in the Crash Tender. Then again, I might just set it off on one pack for slowish and switch in another for faster. I ain't into reverse. Boats don't go backuds. I've had enough real ones to know that! Two of those didn't have any gears. One had a clutch and the other didn't even have that. It starts, it goes, quickish! Always had a paddle handy in the Albatross! I'm not really into the boat club festivals of steering round stuff or backing into docks, so why trouble myself with ESCs which seem to fail often still and weren't around when I had the boat originally. I have gel cells, but the damned things have all gone dead on me, so I might see about Nimh packs when the time comes. I went to get some one shot cellulose putty to fill the cracks and grain bits and the old nail head dips. But my favourite auto paint shop said they hadn't sold it in ages and offered me some acrylic crap in a tube. Not a bloody chance!!! "Gimme the thickest brushing primer you got and it better be cellulose". Yeah, got that, he said. "So why ain't you got stopper?" No answer. Anyway I get this stuff home and it's thick, cellulose (skin forming after 3 minutes) and bang on the right shade of light grey for a Crash Tender. I shall experiment with my Chinchila dust next for the non-slip areas and mix a pot of the primer with a bit of white to do the cabin sides, when I finish spray. For the moment, I very quickly slapped it on with a brush and will leave it for today to harden then start a very big, dusty, rub down session tomorrow. OK a litre of primer ain't cheap, but it's cheaper from a car paint suppliers and it's bang on colour. It'll also do a LOT of boats! I have a black primer in enamel for Vanity, which will also go on the sides of the Crash tender, followed by black gloss enamel, but's a way down the road yet. Talking of old stuff boaty, the white enamel my dad insisted on painting the boat back in the early 60s is hard as rock! He used to get it by the 20 gallon can from a "mate on the docks". We had docks in those days. Dad called it ship enamel. We all knew what he meant. Our entire house was shades of pastel tinted ship enamel! Tints courtesy of another mate on the docks. He had a lot of mates on the docks. It was difficult to be a Cockney family and not have mates on the docks! Pics later of the slapped on grey primer, which, I should say, argued a bit with the sanding sealer. Nuffin' a good rub down won't sort out. Martin