ships boat continued hi all have spent today knocking up a simple jig to hold the keel and ribs of the ships boat while the glue goes off. pic 1 & 2 shows the jig set with the keel in place. pic 3 shows the dry fit test to insure all fits square and true. pic 4 is all the ribs glued to the keel. The rig is made up of pieces of ali angle which was a damaged length from when my greenhouse was delivered last year, all i have done is cut 12 pieces approx 10-15mm wide and drilled 1 hole for fixing to the board. I then marked out the board for where the ribs need to be and fixed two of the brackets for either side of the ribs and used a length of 6x2 beech long enough to be clamped to both angles which was for clamping the ribs too, 1 piece of angle was placed at the front and stern to hold the keel square to the board which is a scrap bit of OSB. Each rib was dry fitted to the keel for any fine tuning using a set square to insure square and true, once i was happy with the results i dismantled it and refitted glueing the ribs in place again double checking with the set square to check for any movement in the jig.
Looking at your “helping hands”, which I think will be my next purchase, it occurred to me just how many “Labour saving” devices and techniques I have accumulated in some 40 years of building model boats. I don’t think there are many things that need fixing around the house that I wouldn’t have a go at thanks to the lessons learned with a hobby such as ours. I’ve gone all weepy now!
[Score: 5/10] 40"/5000g Grimmershorn II Capable of 7mph and a runtime of 60mins Single Propellor (3 Blade 70mm) Direct Drive to a 950 (3 Blade) Powered by Lead Acid (12v) 12Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through 15A 24v (5Amps) ESC - Comments: The Motor vessel 'Grimmershorn' was built in 1956/57 by Hansa Stahlund Schiffbau GmbH at Koln-Deutz for the Waterways and Shipping Administration at Cuxhaven.Her Daimler-Benz four stroke diesel engine had an output of 500hp. permitting a speed of 11.5 knots. The model hull and deck are vacuum formed ABS, timber work of precision cut ply, 2 full size plan sheets and a construction manual along with a fittings pack complete this kit. Technical Data Scale: 1:20 Length: 1038mm Beam 305mm The Grimmershorn was the second major kit I purchased from a model shop on the outskirts of Harlow in Essex back in the 1980s. The Krik kit is still produced and sold today. My build was a slow and lost enthusiasm so after completing the hull, deck, motor and bow thruster installation I gave the boat to my father in-law who completed the superstructure and sailed the boat for a while, eventually the boat was given back to me when the father in-law moved house. I then repaired the rudder, added a moving radar, a adjustable water cannon and pump also various extra fittings such as a detailed life raft and crane, buoys and captain figure. thus renamed the boat as Grimmershorn II a Search and rescue fire boat.
Hi Biggles. I am at a very similar level to you. I am seeking help from the kind members so that I can improve my skills. I built this boat in 1993, which by the way, I had no idea about until I removed one of the life rafts to find I had painted the completion date on the bottom. I am currently stripping the paint and trying to get advice on the painting method. At present I am tending to favour air brushing Revell aqua paint but I am open to other views. As for the spray rail, my boat has never gone fast enough to need them. To be clear, is this the rail around the joint between the hull and deck which my boat has. Told you I was a beginner as well. With the more powerful motor, anything that keeps water from the electrics must be good. The gun was supplied by Battlecraft in Bideford. It is in 1:24 scale. I have just purchased a 40mm Bofors for the stern. Nothing like a lot of weapons. Perhaps I should have some torpedoes one day.😁 I have just bought a 3648 1450kv motor from Hobbyking for mine. I am advised that this will sort out my slow speed problem. I have also been advised to fit Lipo batteries. I probably will once I get over the thought of a large fireball on the river or in my house during charging.😉 Would love to hear how the renovation goes. I am considering starting a build blog as it might be a good source of gaining extra knowledge. I am not sure if a restoration will be ok on the build blog so I would appreciate if a member in the know could comment on this. Work keeps getting in the way of my plans but one day!! Peter.😊
great job so far! really well done, I had a similar thought regarding cabin detail, and the somewhat difficult access, and then, how can it be seen after all that hard work? My 3 foot aerokits boat has a removeable roof, it just drops on top, and is held in position by one m3 bolt ina central position under the hatch, its a "loose" interference fit. One convern following this, is water entry, it does splash up. With my 4 foot boat, I decided against a removable roof, as I knew this boat will work hard, and my clumsly hands might be prone to knocking things off, so I opened up the rear wall of the wheelhouse to gain access, with a removable panel which encompasses the rear sliding windows. I gave the cabin some dash detail, and always promised to return to the floor, and drivers seat etc, but never have. I like it when we see builders individual takes on things, whilst the boats are essentially all the same, it makes them individual, and we all put our own stamp on things. Your engineering skilss are magnificent!👍
Plasticard! 😲 That's cheating 😁 but I can more than appreciate why, being in the middle of renovating a 60s built wooden boat! I also separated the bridge and deck houses on my destroyer to hide various switches and sockets👍 BTW: if you're using LiPos DON'T CHARGE THEM IN THE BOAT PLEASE!!!😡 Charge 'em in a LiPo Safe bag! Cheers Doug 😎
I Have just joined the Darlington & District Model Boat Club on Wednesday 14th March 2018. What a great bunch of lads. The club house is on the sites of a Victorian former reservoir which is about 88m x 85 m and about 2m deep. The water is accessible all the way round and has launching area on one side. The club house is a brick building with a meeting room, toilet, storage area and a building/repair area. Sailing/meetings are on: Wednesdays 9.00am -16.00 Sunday 8.00am - mid day. Membership fee is £50 Per year adult and £5 for a junior. This includes Third party public liability insurance very important and often overlooked. Location The Waterpark, Middleton St George, Darlington, Co. Durham DL2 1JG
"But I ran out of elbow grease!" Where do I send the bottle??😉 I'm just taking a break too. with a glass of Spanish white 'elbow grease' from Mederano. Castilla 😋 Pics soon of finish on my boat; just removing masking tape to get an impression of her before I finish off the hull. Which made me think about your greenhouse / pilot house! Dumas must be nuts making the cladding out of one transparent chunk instead of with separate window inserts! Suppose it means you have to use something like liquid masking tape for the windows 🤔 I use Revell Color Stop when I have no other choice, usually only needed on smaller plastic kits. Looking forward to the pics & vids of 'Brooklyn' 👍 Long time since I was there🤔. Cheers Doug 😎
This is another scratch build fishing boat. The hull is a models by design Cygnus GM33. 16th scale. This one will be a pure trawler. I am going for an aft wheelhouse this time! The prop shaft and rudder have been purchased but all other running gear will be shared with Emily P III.
Just started this re-furb 😭, I forgot about this boat, it was built in 1966 by my dad👍. Been in my sisters loft since 1975 and was only found a few weeks ago when she moved house. so hope to add to my harbour as soon as its seaworthy.👍 Biggest problem is the amount of fiberglass on the outside of the joints, old heavy duty stuff but seems to be coming away okay, will be coating hull in Ezicote and fine glass cloth. At least it makes up for the loss of dads old Sea Queen.😊
Ok, plans didn’t quite work out on hours on the boat over the last couple of weeks. I got the chine stringers fitted on 18 Jan, 30 mins soak and then about an hour’s work to get them properly in place pinned, on the inside lamination only, and glued. Deck supports fitted too. Spent the weekend helping my daughter move house so no boat action. On 22 January, Tom Foster, aka Boatshed, did me a massive favour by finding a copy of the Model Boat Magazine from June 2012, and scanning the pages with a review of the kit I’m building. You’re a legend Tom, thanks. I spent the next couple of days busy watching Bristol City, working and ordering the ESC, Mtronics Marine 25, some Eze Kote to seal the insides, once done, and ordering primer and paint having chosen my colour scheme. I did another 30 mins sorting out the cabin roof and rails on 24 January. Chamfered the rebates ready for fitting the hull bottom maybe an hour.
Laser cut kit from Barracuda RC Boats, N Carolina, USA. Baltic birch plywood false keel, ribs/frames, hull sheathing, deck and cabins. No formal plans; I was able to source a handful of B&W archival photos from the USCG website. Fortunately I was able to procure a motherload of archival photos and a few hard to read layout drawings from Mr. Timothy Dring, LCDR, USN (Ret.). He is co-author of "American Coastal Rescue Craft", which is the "bible" if you will, of such. I do sometimes thank the internet. I am certain that without his assistance, my efforts on this wouldn't have been as enjoyable. The kit was also void of fittings, which I was aware of prior to purchase, so I invested in a 3D printer. That I've used to a limited degree, due to searching for parts in the correct file format is mind-numbing! I have globally sourced fittings; USA, UK, ASIA. As a matter of fact, the searchlights I got from this Model Boat Shop were 3D printed, and I was able to fit 5mm LEDs into them. I'd like to get a couple more and put some superbright 12v LED drone lamps in them for use on my 35" towboat. Many deck fittings are handmade when possible, the cleats and fairleads are from Cornwall Boats, UK. (Very reasonable & diverse source, if you didn't already know.) I try to keep wood natural when detail allows it, as I never have enjoyed painting over natural grain. Her decks are covered with 1/16" scribed basswood sheathing from earthandtree.com, which is normally used for wainscoting dollhouse walls. All my boats that have wood decks are covered with scribed sheathing; I feel it makes 'em look "sexy". Believe it or not, the idea for wainscoting came from finding 3/16" at Hobby Lobby's dollhouse department. A couple of feet x 3.5" was about $16, so I found a less expensive source that also had more selections (earthandtree.com) The rail stanchions are 3/16" square dowels with 2 corners rounded over on the Dremel router table. Leaving their base square, I fit a square peg into a round hole with no glue to facilitate removal, and also for ease of replacing broken ones, which is inevitable. The rail is 1/16" brass rod that also is readily removable. The stern rail is stationary on the lower half, and the chain & wire stanchions are removable for towing ops. The deck coamings and knuckle are African mahogany strips, other mahogany accents came from leftovers of a prior build. I also try on all my boats, to incorporate vintage leftover scribed sheathing salvaged from my late Father's builds, so I know he's got a part in my builds. Note-the raised deck section between the aft ladder trunk and towing bit is actually a laminated deckhouse he made for the Frigate Essex. Unfortunately, he was unable to build that kit due to Alzheimer's disease in his latter years. (I blame that mostly on the hazardous fumes from the airplane "dope" & glue he used when building RC planes in the 60s & 70s.) I use polyurethane instead of resin due to COPD, 37 yrs of smoking, I quit 2.5 yrs ago. The driveline consists of: 775 Johnson DC main (3500 RPM@12V), Harbor Models 4mm x 14" shaft w/brass stuffing box, Raboesch 75mm 5-blade brass wheel (not OEM), 5mm U-joint couplers, Dimart 320A fan-cooled ESC. Handmade wooden teardrop rudder on a 3/8" sternpost, 1/4" tiller arm steered by a Halcion sail winch servo and cable system. Flysky 6 channel. The nav lights and other illumination are Lighthouse 9v LEDs, also a GoolRC Receiver controlled flashing blue Law Enforcement light. Obviously, I put the cart before the horse and completed the topsides and below deck before finishing the outer hull, but the Wx and season change dictated such. Can't wait for Spring!
That is avery nice pusher, sir. I have built one VAC-U-BOAT 22" HIPS kit and a 35" Dumas American Beauty. Both were given my boat shop's paint scheme (ILLINIWEK MARINE). I am multitasking on a couple boats, and one is another US Western river towboat, scratchbuilt up from a salvaged Dumas Am. Beauty hull. (That hull was temp scrapped when my xacto knife got away from me trimming the deck knuckle.) My plan is to fit a telescoping pilothouse which is common to upper Mississippi, Illinois, Ohio rivers. My dilemma is the method of operating the pilothouse lift; can you advise with any info please? I thought of a linear servo w/worm gear maybe. HAVE A SAFE RC BOATING DAY
Props by ChrisG Chief Petty Officer Posted: 4 months ago
Hello Doug I very rarely get my boats wet so the self righting will hopefully not be an issue and as I have had the bath taken out of my house the model when complete will not even get the old bath test. I have twin 540's linked to the 40mm three bladed props and as you rightly say experimenting with thee boat on the water will give me the most acceptable set up. Your recommendation of the Component Shop P94 would seem ideal and reading the spec. it answers several other questions, I am not particularly electrically or technically savvy you will have noticed. I must admit I prefer building with wood to plastic and P38, old fashioned, me, of course.😉 Regards Chris G