Hope this works as I can't figure out how to post a video! Click on the media file and then on the download button. The file should then appear at the bottom of your screen. Spioenkop is officially a MEKO 200SAN class Frigate. I duplicated the unusual drive used in these boats in that they have CODAG-WARP; COmbined Diesel And Gas turbine - Waterjet And Refined Propellers. I have the main props motors and the jet drive on separate channels. The video clip shows the first test of this layout with the jet drive coming in after about 4sec of video and is switched off just before the end of the video. I was just so delighted that my system worked that I unashamedly ran it madly over-scale speed on this first outing....sorry!!
Is it a boat; is it a 'plane? Having made a very simple hovercraft back in 1954 (I think!!), I am now thinking of making another but need some assistance from anyone who has gone into this fascinating aspect, in the form of drawings and whether or not a skirt is necessary. My first model was Baby Bee powered and free running - R/C wasn't as miniature then as it is now!! Pic shows the models I left with friends when we left Kenya in 1963 - the hovercraft is on the left next to the c/l flying saucer!
This thread has reminded me of times at a lake in Scarborough Park yorkshire. There used to be boats and aeroplanes with evening shows of battles. Aeroplanes on wires dropped bombs and ships fired guns etc. Great stuff. NPJ
Prompted by Onetenor's diligence in scouring the net for tools which may help us build our masterpieces! 'BRAVO ZULU that man'!👍 Last of John's discoveries, carried over from NPJ's 'Leaking Boat' 😲 "Would this be any good for RC wiring--https://www.banggood.com/Drillpro-Multifunctional-Ratchet-Cr... or this one--https://www.banggood.com/New-Multifunctional-Automatic-Wire-... If not any suggestions?" My first impressions- Link #1 Great, IF you do a lot of LAN cable stripping for RJ45 connectors and the like. Overkill for us? Link #2 OK, but still a little overkill but the price ain't bad. Pic shows the wire stripper I've been happily using for 30 odd years. (Some years were VERY odd😁) adjustable for all wire gauges; squeeze, twist & pull and you're good to go! The pic shows the four tools I use (plus soldering iron of course) for all my 'Lectrickery' and LED Magic etc. Not one is less than 38 years old (neither am I by a very long chalk🤔) Cheers, All, Doug 😎
Hi Astromorg, Hmm! Your assessment throws up some interesting questions! 1 If the 'teardrop' is a DF antenna what frequency band was it intended to detect? It's way too small to contain the multiple antenna elements necessary to detect, and determine the angle of incidence, of any frequency in common use at that time. I've also never seen a microwave waveguide that shape. If DF I would expect a rotating loop antenna in that era. 2 It's my conviction that the tear drop on the Vickers Wellington is a streamlined VHF antenna. Or just possibly a radar detector much later in the 'grand ruckus'. 3 Why would a Fireboat need a DF set anyway? 4 Some photos clearly show a forward facing lens (white disc) in the teardrop. 5 Such boats when tied up to a mooring buoy instead of the dock would require a 360° visible light. Hence mast-top is the favourite mounting place. 6 Visible angle is primarily a question of the lamp and lens construction and not necessarily the mounting position. 7 A stern light providing the 'fill in all round' is a contradiction of the purpose of running lights which are so constructed and mounted as to help the observer to determine which way the vessel is moving. Forward and aft lights visible 180°? red and green 90°. Which combination you can see helps indicate which way the vessel is moving; towards or away from you. Conversely the single anchor light should be visible from any angle. It can be yellow to distinguish it from a running light. Current regulations also recommend the use of deck lights while at anchor. 8 I agree re position halfway up the mast for the forward running light, BUT, as the masts on these vessels were often folded down the permanently fixed forward running light on the cabin roof would make sense. But then, that's only my opinion! And what do I know?😲 I only worked in communication engineering for 45 years, the last 32 of 'em in Integrated Naval Communication Systems, on all types of vessels from Fast Patrol Boats through FACs, OPVs, corvettes, frigates, conventional subs and up to Escort Aircraft Carrier. Cheers, Doug 😎
It’s been a while since the boat had it’s maiden voyage on the lake at St. Albans and I’m pleased to report that it looks really good in the water and goes like stink if you open up the throttle. Sadly I still don’t have any decent video of the boat yet as I can’t film and drive the thing at the same time, but I do have some static wide shots from my GoPro. When I do the video I’ll ask a cameraman mate to do the honours, maybe I’ll put the GoPro on the bow and then the stern to get some low action shots…the storyboard is already building in my head!! These early runs were great as they showed up some minor problems that needed attending to. I found that it needed ballasting slightly as it was not sitting on the waterline evenly from side to side so I flattened out some old lead water pipe and cut it into small sections so that I could add ballast incrementally. I did this in the ‘domestic test tank’ and once I was happy the lead pieces were fixed in place inside the hull with some super strong double sided tape. The ESC needed a little programming adjustment because I had forgotten to set the low battery level point to ‘off’ as I am using NiMh batteries and not LiPo’s , that was the cause of the short initial run time on the first outing…..DOH !! The batteries are now held in place by Velcro straps on some bearers that I added, otherwise a battery change involved cutting cable ties and replacing them at the lakeside…not very practical. The volt/amp/watt meter is also now on a proper bracket so that the display is more readable. I have also changed the charging connection from the nasty Tamiya connector to a nice little panel mount XT 60 connector that HobbyKing sell, it comes with a handy blanking plug that I have drilled for a retaining cord. I have also finally got around to upgrading the firmware on my Turnigy i6 radio to the 10 channel version so that I can assign the lighting to the switches properly and have the rotation of the searchlight on one of the two rotary knobs. I can use the old 6 channel RX in the new boat….blog coming soon.
Hi Canabus, #382 may well have been what you say! But this model has obviously been built as a THORNYCROFT 43ft RANGE SAFETY LAUNCH. The cabin structure and fittings are totally different. For me the 'give-aways' were the three side windows and the foreward bulge on the cabin. I had wondered about the number on the model from the outset. http://www.rafboats.co.uk/rsl43.html Pics show one example FoC #1640. On the above url you can see several more. Pic 7 is a MK1 40 foot Firefloat #55. Last 3 pics are 40foot MK1 Seaplane Tenders, #377 in a sad n sorry state😲 but apparently about to undergo restoration? Cheers, Doug 😎 PS: Attached also a pic of Firefloat #90, a MK1A. She was converted to a Seaplane Tender #467 in November 1949. FF91 was converted to ST382 in Feb 1950.
The ‘Range Safety Launch’…………. Intro. I am now the owner of this boat. Wooden, good hull lines and hull paint work but needing to be finished. I am told that it looks like it started life as a kit, but has had considerable modification to at least the above deck layout and detail. Advice is that it could be a rather simplified Range Safety Launch, but maybe I can use a little ‘artistic licence’ and just make it look interesting and capable. There are two main reasons for sharing this project. 1. I will undoubtedly need guidance 2. Maybe some of the information will assist others The hull is 44 inches ( 112cm ) long and 14 inches (36cm ) wide, it has two brushed MFA Torpedo 800 motors………. and weighs in currently at 15 lbs 4ozs (6.91 kgs). It is large enough for me to be able to work on reasonably comfortably and apart from the cabin/upper deck areas to be ‘improved’, I aim to introduce sound, lighting, active radar sweep, search light, together with maybe a deck hoist and water /fire monitor appliance. At my age it is difficult to tell the difference between wishful thinking and dementing…… However, the prime aim is to try and achieve at least some of this whilst having the boat usable during the current ‘season’. There is so much knowledge, good will and help available on this site that even before I touched a thing, information came pouring in. If anyone feels like making a contribution then please just ‘pile in’. Have ordered some parts so next time should have something to show. NPJ.
I don't intend using Lipos when I get back to actually boating and flying as I feel they are too much bother. Lion orABC or similar for me I think.I'll have to think more on it. I have Nimhs and A FEW Nicads .The Nimhs I know for certain are 13 yrs old at least and are showing 11.2v at 82% charge despite not being charged for 4 yrs. The Nicads 9.4v and 42% charge. Not as good; as we might expect but the others really surprised me when I metered them out.8 yrs lying in a blokes planes,boats and boxes and I got them 5 yrs ago.I charged them all and they've not been charged since.We'll have to see what happens under load etc. They might not last 5mins.🤔 John O/T👍 I know some of you won't believe me so tuff. J😎
This was actually done back in April, somehow it ended up in another thread and I forgot to put it here!🤓 After spraying the cabin white I used the windows 'oles to mark templates for the windows. Which I then transferred to 3mm tinted perspex / acrylglass and cut out on the table scroll saw. Despite careful marking and cutting still had to fiddle about with filing to get 'em to fit right 😡 Pics 1 to 3 show fitted windows still with protective film. Pics 4 to 6 film removed but still to be polished. 7th pic; Les pièces, 8th pic; ze glue 😉 I chose 3mm 'glass' a) to match the 3mm ply of the cabin walls - makes it easier to get a flush fit, b) could get it in green tint 😊 Think there was also grey and red !!!! Red for a 'Fun' Boat perhaps 😲 Glue used; Deluxe Materials Canopy Glue; "Thick, flexible glue. High grip. Dries clear. Fills gaps." Here endeth the advert😉 Last pic shows final result after polishing. Maybe sometime, when I haven't got more interesting things to solve and build, I'll make some alu or mahogany frames! 😉 Happy glazing folks😁 Cheers, Doug 😎
Hi All This year I bought an unstarted kit, but, sold it to a club member. A month later one of the club member wish to swap for a faster boat and as my Sea Commander required a repaint and fittings. I thought a swap for a very good working Hellen was a good deal. So are making a dingy and replacing the broken prop with a brass one I had my second Hellen for the year. Three weeks ago another Hellen pops up on Gumtree(aka EBAY), so it was to cheap not to buy it. While waiting for it to come, I made a new stand, a dingy with oars and a set of fenders. When it arrive the mast where laying on the deck broken, but , the posted pics show that. The motor is a 11 to 1 geared MFA Como 919 D which runs OK. A spare new plastic prop. Started on the repairs, like the keel and deck around the mast bases. The aft mast was broken in half, so I brass sleeved it. The aft sail was missing and the forward sail was all glued up, so I bin it. So this is the boat pics so far. Canabus
IN THE BEGINNING THERE WAS ....... Inherited from my Aunt Beryle a few years ago. Found it in her studio, no idea how she came by it! Despite being paralysed from the waist down in a motor bike accident at 16 she became a respected artist, National Academy exhibitions etc. As we all hail from Kent (mostly Folkestone) and Beryle often painted scenes of the south Kent coast, Dungeness, Rye etc, including the fishing boats, I long assumed that the boat, Reg. E714, was from a south coast port possibly in Kent. After much research I discovered that she is a Danish fish cutter based in Ebsjerg on the west coast of Denmark. https://www.google.de/maps/place/Esbjerg,+Denmarkfirstname.lastname@example.org... The kit was built (or better said thrown together!) as a static model. First four pics show what I started with! 😲 First job was to try to dismantle her without destroying too much. Next 6 pics show the sad results. 🤔 Everything is tinder dry, brittle and very fragile, and mostly smothered in thick layers of oil based paint. 😡 The deck is paper thin, obviously just printed, and fell apart in my hands. No great loss as I had already concluded that a new planked deck was required. Decided that first priority is to repair and stabilize the hull. See next Update! A messy business 😲
sidley70, you can use anything you like really. Subtle, rather than flash for a boat like a Sea Queen. We didn't have much flash in those days! Except for front wing ornaments for Mk 2 Consuls If you look at any period advertising it will probably have the original fittings shown on any pictures. Whilst Mersey Marine (THE period fittings company) are sadly no more, there are basic fittings available from Cornwall Models, etc. I also saw quite a few on ebay, but do yourself a favour and have a look on the Modelling Timbers website....http://www.modellingtimbers.co.uk/1.html The guy who runs it is an absolute gentleman and you will not find better quality or lower prices anywhere. Despite coming from the Isle of man his return postage is excellent. He is very friendly on the phone too. If he doesn't have it, you can also get excellent quality, service and prices from RBModels in Poland. I have bought very good model railway stuff from them, but I noticed that they also do model boat stuff. Being a tight wad I tend to make all mine that I can't get from Modelling timbers. Cheers, Martin
Hi Boaty, right on MOST counts👍 But some of us have 'The knowledge' 😉 Check out my 'Sea Scout Jessica - Renovation' build Blog. There's a section in it where I renovate the Taycol Target Dad put in the Sea Scout in the early sixties, with two wet cell lead-acid accumulators! I also converted it to run forwards and backwards with a normal brushed ESC. How is described in the Blog. A few pics attached, from dismantled to reassembled with new brushes. Pic 3 it the test set up with Servo tester to simulate RX, standard Graupner brushed ESC and my conversion board connected between ESC and motor. Then two pics of the input waveform to the motor; forward and then reverse. Last pic shows the 'unconverted' waveform, complete with whopping great sparks 😲 I've now upgraded the Sea Scout with a brushless and the Taycol will go into a Danish Fish Cutter I am currently renovating and converting from static to RC. The Taycol's sedate performance will be more suited to the cutter which only plodded along a 8 knots or so 😉 Complete process is described in the Blog. Otherwise you are right, with few exceptions the current young 'boaters' mostly belong to the 'instant fun chuck it when it stops working throw away' generation 🤔 Cheers, Doug 😎 Martin; for yonks I did my warships in RAF light camouflage grey which mysteriously used to turn up in Dad's office in the Electronics Bay, of which Dad was the CO. 😉 A bright yellow for my scooter also appeared one time!