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>> Home > Tags > boat show

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It's a sad day!. by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 6 days ago
Thanks for your support gents, but I'm too old to kick too much arse these days. The Sea otter I'm not completely sure of, but the Super Hunter 3 1/2 cc,. was indeed a boat only motor and had a throttle on the exhaust rather than the inlet and the result was that it never came off the 2 stroke, so sounded very strange. But it was incredibly responsive and was demonstrated to an appreciative crowd at one of the race course big shows nearish London. Can't say which as I don't do nags, but on the temporary pond in a typical -for -the -time flattie boat, it was VERY impressive for a diesel and started easily too.....Kempton Park, methinks. All ED engines look like they mean business and run really well. We'll be making our own fuel again for lack of supply. Always used to, but poncy chemists won't sell you anything stronger than cough mixture these days. I could always get my Uncle some amyl nitrate when he asked me to. Don't know where he got the ether from, but it always got his little ED Bee going and was ace in my Racer. BTW, the Mk 4 was the precursor to the Racer. Looked a little earlier by being spindly and taller. Martin (the Anarchists' Boat Club)

MODEL ENGINEERING and MODELLING EXHIBITION 2018 by mturpin013 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 8 days ago
A really well attended show over 3 days there were lots of stalls selling mostly tooling type products but a good few boat related parts as well. There were lots of steam related stalls serving the model traction engine and steam train community, however the show of boat clubs was very disappointing (only 3) anybody know why? Still I had a great day and spent loads of money.

Emma C Berry Fishing Smack by Ron Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 9 days ago
I was told by a boat yard, that the rudder placement was be far a stern with this type of rig. Where is it on this boat, your photos do not show the model out of the water.

Our boating water by aanside Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 11 days ago
Following up on previous questions: There are no restrictions on using IC or steam just don't collide with any of the regulars! The big problem here is the wind, last Sunday was glorious but the water was very choppy and even the big tugs shipped some water (try getting a boat back against the wind when the rudder has failed). Couple of photos to show the conditions. We have alternative boating available in Turriff (but the pond gets filled with weed in summer and ice in winter) and at Portsoy (Loch Soy). One of our stalwarts took his fishing vessel to Banff Harbour last Saturday to play with the rowing skiffs - mad, yes he is!

Our boating water by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 13 days ago
Sun shining, boat on the water, joystick in left hand, Bierkrug or wine glass in the right hand - can't beat it 😋😁 Need a third hand for the spare ribs 😉 Pics show my 'operating corner'.

Rudders and propeller by teejay Lieutenant   Posted: 20 days ago
Hi all for the second blog report on the schenllboot I am going to go over the rudder an propeller shaft assembly in more detail. The first stage was to make the rudders which were made of brass ,and having taken note of what has been said about the increase in size needed for the kit by other members I have increased the size of the rudders by 50% so that they have more effect and hopefully the boat will be more agile .I fitted 3mm treaded rod on to the rudder and in a 4mm flanged tube to reinforce the brass rod. The second stage was to make and fit 5mm flanged tube in the location for the rudders in the boat , these were made to be above the water line and will be sealed in place to reduce the possibility of leaks. These were fitted to a rudder platform inside the boat which was fitted to the kit moulding for the rubbing strip that runs the length on the boat and secured by making resin blocks which were fitted with computer extension nuts .which were then superglue in place to secure the rudder platform. The rudders were then fitted in place and held in position with the tiller collars which were made from 8mm rod and fitted the tiller arms and locked in place with 3mm computer screws and ni-lock nuts, a connecting plate was then fitted to connect the three tillers together, I also fitted rubberised washers to seal the rudder tubes. The third stage was to make the propeller supports. The centre support was a direct copy of the kit part made of brass and fitted to the kit with a plate and screws (this plate and the rudder plate were made from galvanised steel)and will sealed with resin after the I test the boat for leaks. The port and starboard supports were made by taking the kit parts and cutting them in have along the joint line or mould seam this gave me a template ,which I used to make cross-section segments but I did alter the template by increasing the boss diameter to 10mm and extending the support legs so that the finished support could be fitted through the hull (the picture of these show the mk1 version where I forgot to allow for the 4mm prop shaft which has a 6mm tube) any way the boss of these segments were drilled out with a 7mm drill and a length of 7mm brass tube fitted through the boss to assemble the segments, all of which were coated in soldering flux at this stage of the assembly which were riveted at both ends to hold it all together during soldering, after soldering the supports were then filed to the size and shape to resemble the kit parts as close as possible and fitted to the hull using a superglue and talcum power mix and then I cast resin around the extensions to secure the prop supports in place. The forth stage is the propeller shaft housing for the centre propeller housing I place a brass rod in a plastic straw and place in position in hull and using resin I sealed the hull with the rod in place this gave me a pilot hole for the centre prop shaft after I removed the brass rod. For the port and starboard shafts I used the kit parts which had hole place when assembled, this when I reinforced the housings ,the centre housing I glue 2mm of plasticard on each side and for the port and starboard I made a brass tube shroud which covered the housings which left gaps between the kit part and the brass which was filled by casting resin in the gap this increased the diameter to 10 mm so that there were little chance of breaking throw with the drill and finished these off by fill-in the outside with body filler and sanded to shape and finish . I then drilled through the pilot hole in the housings using very long extended drills and a wheel brace ( if I had use a power drill the heat would have melted the plastic of the kit and may have caused problems) I drill the shaft housings out 6mm them filed them out with 6mm file so that I could insert a length of 6mm brass tube. After all this was done I fitted a flanged bush made from 7mm tube and 2mm brass plate turned to 11mm to the ends or the propeller shaft housings. And now it is time I have to ask for some help could any one advise me on the length of propeller shafts , I know I can use a 300mm shaft for the centre shaft but port and starboard will have to be longer . and I also need advice on selecting the motors , I want to use 4mm prop shaft with 35mm propellers. Any opinions welcome.

Getting ready by Jerry Todd Commander   Posted: 23 days ago
The Chesapeake Bay Maritime Museum moved their Model Boat Expo back to May and I'm getting Constellation ready to sail. It's a tradition now that I have some progress to show each time she sails, so this time I want to set the courses. Since her last sail the aft bulwark was added and new winch drums made, and a wedge added to the cart to keep her from sliding back. Putting her on and off her ballast was a pain by myself, so I ground off the threads on the rods for about a centimeter so they act like pins and hold the boat in place while I thread in the other rod. That little hack was much simpler than figuring out some sort of cradle to fit on the cart. I looked at all sorts of ways to control the courses, and the simplest method was sort of a yard at the bottom, but one that wasn't obvious. I used a length of vinyl coated clothes hanger and sew pocket onto the clews on the backside of the sails. In the center of the foot, I sewed a sleeve. The rod goes through the sleeve and onto the pockets. If I need to reduce sail, I can easily pull out the rods and bunt up the sail. I also figured I'll set the two gaff-headed Spencer sails. So far I sewed hoops on the forward one. Their a line on it to brail it up if I need to lose it. The t'gallants and royals will get hooks on the halyards, and some sort of easy release on their sheets, so I can take them off, yard and all, if it's too windy. If need be, I should be able to brail up the spencers, bunt up the courses, and remove the t'gallants and royals all in just a few minutes, and have her down to just tops'ls, spanker, and jibs. If THAT's too much sail, well, then it's just too windy to sail. Hopefully I'll get to sail her with all 17 sails set! The other bit of "progress" for this sail will be to use both winches. Previously I used one winch to control the main corse yard, and the fore and mizzen were slaved to it. Last time I controlled the fore tops'l yard and slaved the main and mizzen to the fore. This time the main and mizzen tops'l yard will be controlled together on their own winch, and the fore tops'l yard will be controlled separately on it's own winch. This way, when I come-about or tack, I can back the fore against the wind to push the bow across. So, I was looking at images of the real ship to refresh my memory of how the main and mizzen brace were led when I noticed the main tops'l brace was anchored in the rig in one place when sail was set, and another place without sails. Looking around I found there was some sort of ring or band that slide up and down the mizzen topmast pushed by the tops'l yard parrel when it was raised and lowered to set or take in sail. I'd never noticed that sort of thing before, but looking at images of ship contemporary to Constellation, I found it was actually pretty common place, and I even saw it done on a few British ships of the 1850's and later. Always learning something new.

Northern Model Boat Show Doncaster 2018 by mturpin013 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Not sure why its done this, it show correct in the calendar as I typed it in but it is 2nd and 3rd but can't seem to alter it

Northern Model Boat Show Doncaster 2018 by dragon Captain   Posted: 1 month ago
Maybe your dates are a bit out cheers

Northern Model Boat Show Doncaster 2018 by mturpin013 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Hosted By CADMA Adults £5 Children under 16 £2

wooden ladders by Baggie Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Well done you. It certainly is worth persevering to get things right.... as I am finding building my first boat. All these things you guys show on the various’forums’ are so very useful and interesting. Thank you.

Bristol pilot cutter mascotte by kmbcsecretary Admiral   Posted: 1 month ago
ships boat continued hi all have spent today knocking up a simple jig to hold the keel and ribs of the ships boat while the glue goes off. pic 1 & 2 shows the jig set with the keel in place. pic 3 shows the dry fit test to insure all fits square and true. pic 4 is all the ribs glued to the keel. The rig is made up of pieces of ali angle which was a damaged length from when my greenhouse was delivered last year, all i have done is cut 12 pieces approx 10-15mm wide and drilled 1 hole for fixing to the board. I then marked out the board for where the ribs need to be and fixed two of the brackets for either side of the ribs and used a length of 6x2 beech long enough to be clamped to both angles which was for clamping the ribs too, 1 piece of angle was placed at the front and stern to hold the keel square to the board which is a scrap bit of OSB. Each rib was dry fitted to the keel for any fine tuning using a set square to insure square and true, once i was happy with the results i dismantled it and refitted glueing the ribs in place again double checking with the set square to check for any movement in the jig.

Leicester boating water. by glyn44 Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 1 month ago
Hi Colin, I’m in Leicester. I think that the boating like is only used for special model shows/occasions. I fairly certain that it is not used by any club, on a regular basis. Yes, the school is still on Melton Rd, now an academy of course. Certainly much larger than it used to be.

Help Needed new Builder Billings St Canute by Richard7 Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 2 months ago
Hello, thank you for your reply, l will endeavour to post a couple of pictures. There is no diagram in the instructions regarding positioning the motor which is typical of Billing Boats, all it does show is a picture of the propshaft. I will scan that picture tomorrow and attach the PDF. I took the advise on the Billing Boats UK regarding the motor size M500 (Mtroniks). Cheers Richard

1-35 scale S100 schennllboot blog by teejay Lieutenant   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi all this is my first blog, last year I post my intention to do a project about an RAF D boat that my Father served on and as a precursor to that build That I was going to do this S/E boat as the hull design is shared buy both, and as plastic kit modeller the kit great the first stage was to put together the decks and superstructure as normal, with the exception of all the bits that would be easily broken as most kit aircraft modellers aerials and guns tend to brake ,so long ago I got into the habit of making these out brass rod or bar using a mini drill and a set of needle files, holding the drill in my left hand and the files in my right, when started this I saw the number of stanches I needed so I came across this little beauty a mini bead lathe it is a great bit of kit and not expensive less than £50 and plenty of types and accessories available so all the stanches aerials hand rails, gun rails, horn, and some of the components for the rudder and tiller were made on this lathe. so good time being had in my first radio control boat . the next post will show all the parts for the rudder/tiller setup