As the hull glass matting is really dry and has had some minor filling done it’s time to fit the chine rubbing strakes. which have been in the jig now for some days and consisted of a two dimensional curvature jig. In order to make sure the strakes were equally balanced on each side I made a cardboard template that followed the Chine stringers line and rested on the Gunwhale rubbing strakes, having drawn a line on the port side I flipped the template over and drew a line on the starboard side giving a perfectly equal curve on each side So now to prepare them for fitting. The jig had made a curve that was a really good fit without much spring. I decided to use some very small brass pins (0.5dia x 10mm long) to hold them whilst the epoxy sets. I pre drilled the whole length of the strake and lightly inserted pins along its length, then applied the epoxy and started to fix from the bow and followed the pencil line back to the stern. This was repeated on the other side, when set there was some minor filling to be done/filling pin holes.
Hi mastman, I saw your comment that you wrote, I have copied and pasted it below. ******************************************** Your right about the madhouse cant see how people can run things down on here without seeing the actual goods any way thats another matter. ********************************************* I did write about the shape of the wherry hull was wrong. I am not into sailing boats, am more into MTB's and I power boat hulls. I know I hadn't seen the actual hull in the flesh so to speak. All I saw was the picture that had been posted for the Wherry hull that was for sale. I had just come home from Norfolk and just seen a Wherry moored in Potter Heigham. I commented that the shape was wrong because of the way the bow of the hull swept up so high. I have posted the picture I saw from which I commented on. I am sorry if I did offend you but it was just that I din't see the shape as being correct. Once again I am sorry to have offended you. I also said about other parts being made on a 3D printer. Onc e again I did think that resin ones I have seen on ebay were of a better finish quality than the 3D printed ones. It seems that I have put a cat amongst the pigeons with my remarks. I am sorry to have offended you. Regards BOATSHED.
thanks for the credit but it was octman's video of a working system and looking at it I would bow to his MUCH superior knowledge! As to your TX sorry I pass on that the only modern set I know anything about is the Taranis and that's complex enough for this old brain.
Hmmm, seems whatever I do I need to tie more knots to use either a ring (as per Havelock's video) or a bowsie. The knots are tied in the string on the winch drum and that was a pain to get the tension right, so I'm thinking just a piece of slit tube to get over the string, then crimp up with electrical contact pliers for a good crimp. Still waiting for the battery pack to arrive for the RC and servos. Then I have to bind the Orange Rx. to the Spektrum Tx....ugh! I got a biddliboop from the Tx. when I put the batteries in and turned it on and a light came on in a line of lights. Fancy, this modern stuff, innit? First time the Tx. has ever been right out of the box in about 5 years since I bought it, ostensibly for a model aircraft. But aircraft are too expensive to insure, join clubs, etc., hence my switch to yachts. Just as involving as aircraft (wind strength, direction, sail trim and all that jazz), but more interesting than watching a power boat trolling round endlessly. At least, that's the plan Martin
Haverlock, wouldn't bowsies run the risk of slipping? I was thinking of using brass tube (although they would have to be slit first now as I have done all the knot tying I want to)! I guess I should first find where the sail winch servo wants to centre itself, then I can mark the string and put crimps on for the rigging cord. Thanks, folks. Cheers, Martin
The Winch paper work makes various suggestions, but I chose to run a single sheet line, aft through the single block. The main is the first ring, then the jib attached forward followed by a thin elastic which provides constant tension. Use a Bowsie if needed in your set-up to get the adjustment just right. My winch is currently being replaced as it was installed in the early 1990’s. Hope this is helpful.
Long time since I saw shoe eyelets as portholes! No reason why it shouldn't sail. Let's face it some of the best sailing any of us have had is with a Star yacht from the seafront kiosk when Dad was feeling generous. Let the sails out a bit on the bowsies and off it went to the other side of the pond. I had one for years! Eventually, Mum had to make new sails as the originals rotted, so an old bedsheet or one of Dad's shirts would be run through the old Singer, ready for the next years holidays. Martin
I am truly sorry if I have thrown a spanner in the works. I saw the picture and was surprised on the height the bow went. I do spend a lot of time up on the Norfolk Broads. The Avatar I have is my boat that I have moored in Hebert Woods Boat yard in Potter Heigham. I have seen the Wherries on the river many times and just had to point the error out. Once again I'm sorry to have ruined your dream of getting the correct model.
Even single masted and sailed vessels sail well without digging in at the bow.Lateen or triangular sail pattern. Carvel or clinker seems to make no odds. However I believe round bottomed hulls get pulled lower in the water when moving through it. That seemed to be the case with a Jetex boat I made as a lad. The outrigger booms at deck level dragged in the water under power. I chined the hull and it planed with the booms clear which seems to prove the point👍
My Father made a Wherry see attached pictures. There is a lot of research required for an accurate model, note the sail winch has to swing out of the way for the mast to fold down, the real mast is counter balanced so it can be raised and lowered. Also note a Wherry is never painted green! The keel and weight distribution can help the forward mast position and a tendency for the bow to be low in the water on models. My Dad also made a large scale version which was displayed outside of the Norfolk Wherry Museum
we dont have our models as yet boatshed we have been searching the net and other forums looking for a grp mould supplier for the wherry model, it just turned out that me and martin have been looking for the same thing and have been comparing notes on here. i see from the pictures you have posted that you are correct about the bow and this is something that would need correcting in the build . cheers Ron
Have you got any single pictures of the model of your Wherry. I have seen them up on the Norfolk Broads, and the pictures you have posted seem to over accentuated the bow on the boat. I'm not being picky but I haven't seen one with a bow that slopes up that much. I have posted a couple of pictures and they don't seem to be that prominent.
Thank you for your replies! Low battery is not impossible; but it powers the motors fine direct, receiver lights come on, ESC lights come on, and the phone connects to the receiver fine via WiFi, so I assume it's OK. Peter - I will pop along to Bury, probably today, as it's a lovely Sunday morning. Thank you. RNinMunich - I don't have a compatible TX but will look into that at some point. I did consider the 1:350 version, but read that the dies were very old now, and that the Academy 1:400 was more recent and far more accurate. I'll show some pictures of the hull layout later. It was quite a struggle, and I've gone to quite a bit of effort to keep it balanced, with a heavy water pump towards the front to make it go 'down by the bow' (but not sink). Yes, quite ambitious. The hardest part was that the two outer props are incredibly close to the hull, so that only very small motors will fit. I didn't want to go for any sort of flexible coupling as I thought that would lose too much power, and larger motors probably wouldn't fit anyway. I don't really mind if it's slow and hard to manoevre, as that would be realistic. If it doesn't work I may rip the motors out and just pit one big one in the middle and steer by rudder.