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>> Home > Tags > bow

bow
bow
tvr steam engine by GaryLC Lieutenant   Posted: 6 days ago
Hi Rick, and I am hoping this helps, the inlet and exhaust manifolds on the engine have no fittings included for you to screw onto, the connecting end is just a plain 1/8" brass pipe, so you need to silver-solder your fitting to suit. I have included a photo which hopefully will help. you are going to need some elbows (90* bends) and maybe a Tee piece or two, globe valves and the pipe fittings to put it all together, plus a condenser to collect and separate the exhaust waste steam. My condenser is simply a piece of 2" brass pipe, I can do you some piping diagrams for you if this helps, or send me a plan of how you are going to connect it all together. The end result will be worth it I promise. Regards, Gary. Hang on in there I have every confidence.

PS Iona - ballast by Harvey Kitten Lieutenant   Posted: 8 days ago
Well I said in blog 1 this was a mixed media ship... I forgot to mention the concrete. The bathtub test showed that the ship sailed ON the water rather than in it, so some serious ballast weight needed to be added. As I don't have any spare lead, and buying the amount needed would be expensive, I discovered an old bag of cement in the shed. Excellent! I roughly calculated how much to use to infill the base of the tug - about 1 inch depth distributed bows to stern, up to the level of the frames, so I could fit a wooden floor to mount the motors / electronics onto. Luckily this came out about right, and the paddles would sit in the water correctly🤓

Clamp Chaos by Joe727 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 9 days ago
Steve, You are quite right, I intend to flip it over, build some jigs, when it's time to do the hull "planking". My methods are to experiment along the way on a Build, try different ideas along the way. Decided that I first wanted to build a very straight, rigid keel with stern and bow ribs first. That's why the build board is just a lightweight flat straight surface, I figure out how to clamp it best as I go. Your interest and comments are appreciated, it made me think more about the planking, thanks! Joe

Build Finalized by Joe727 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 10 days ago
Hello, Finally put some finishing touches on my Rescue Vessel BUILD. Added rubber bumpers to assist in rescuing at bow and stern. Removed the smoker unit as these was complicating the build and was against one of my original objectives....Keep it Simple! Overal all I am pleased with is build, it was fun, quick and built mostly with scraps and parts on hand. The Springer Tug design is a great starter design and can be easily modified to personal tastes. I recommend this to those out there to get some initial or just more experience at building. It's fun! Joe

San Pedro by Harbor Models! by figtree7nts Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 11 days ago
Thanks Joe, I have thought of building a sail boat. Or even a sail barge. like what your currently working on. But, I don't have the tools or the space required! As a matter of fact. My next build will have to be my last! As I only have space in my hobby room. For one last model! Maybe two if I squeeze thing's! And I have elected the Tug San Pedro to be the last build! I'm also interested to see how she works. Using a Z Drive at her bow. Should prove to be very maneuverable! When I worked on tugs in New York harbor. I never got the chance to use a Z Drive! It should be a lot of fun! Cheers, Ed

PS Enterprise by rcmodelboats Commander   Posted: 12 days ago
The bow section of the top deck is made and is now Varnished, some pins as rivets on the bow, the Rudder shaft supports with pins as rivets and now the top deck stern section needs to.be made. The stern section has gaps in the wood.

Determine Scale / Ribs / HELP with building board ideas? by Joe727 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 18 days ago
To clarify this build, it will be a RC Sailing Boat with full functioning rudder and sails. I say this as I am using the PEARL for its design overall, but as to detailed historical details it will have some, but be simplified. Boat's Dimnsions were shown in Imperial, 21' width x 85'-6" length. The bowsprit adds about another 25% in length. To determine what scale I wanted to build in I thought most about storage, weight to lift and how to transport to the pond. I like to keep things simple, I prefer to rig it and transport while assembled, with the topsail mast dropping and the bowsprit retracted. Have done this before and it has worked well for me. Looking at potential scales and finished sizes. * 3/4" or 1/18 scale would be 16" x 64" * 1/2" or 1/24 scale equals 10.5" x 42.75" * 3/8" equals 8" x 32" I prefer a larger bout in length as it is easier to get to sail correctly, at least in my experience. Anything under 32" get tricky. I like the 64" size, but with bowsprit will be about 88" LOA. This will be a little too large for my vehicle. I decided to go with 1/2" scale as it will still be a good length hull. Ribs - I took the hull line drawings from the book, which were very small, just about an inch wide. I scanned the image and using the app "paint" on my laptop. I cropped it close around the hull rib drawing, I then enlarged it to 1/2" scale. Then I printed on standard letter sized paper, then mirrored the image cut them in two, pasted up as seen in the photos to show the completed rib sections. Next I will put together a building board / hull jig. I want to build bottom up for planking. DO any of you have any good ideas for the best one to build? I have never done this except for tiny boats. Ideas, Help would be appreciated. Joe

Rubbing fenders, more epoxy & hatch coamings. by mturpin013 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 22 days ago
You cant beat elbow grease, there aren't any shortcuts to achieving a perfect paint finish. I thought it may be useful to other builders to mention something we discussed at AP and that is the fact that it wasn't good practice to use any filler after glassing as this filling however thin or small will over time shrink at a different rate to that of the paint, making it visible as a "shrink line" albeit small. If you do find yourself in the position of requiring some minor filling you should try to use a material that is the same chemical make up as your paint eg if using cellulose then use cellulose putty for minor filling but do allow it to harden for a couple of weeks before final coat. Also the disc sander from Lidl is brilliant for the price, I did make a small modification by taking out some of the end float by fitting an additional washer/spacer

Rubbing fenders, more epoxy & hatch coamings. by robbob Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 22 days ago
With all of the deck planking fitted I can now fix the rubbing fenders to the hull where the deck meets the hull sides. These are made from 6.5mm x 5mm obeche strip steamed and bent to shape and fixed with 30 minute epoxy, unfortunately the strips are not quite long enough to do this in one piece even with the rear rubbing fender in place at the stern so a join has to be made which I hope won’t be too conspicuous. The fender tapers in height from bow to stern and the piece that runs across the stern was made from 5mm x 5mm obeche. All the fenders were ‘pilot drilled’ for the pins that held them in place while the glue set. The complete hull was then given a further two coats of epoxy resin with a rub down between coats and a final ‘polish’ with 240 grit paper used wet. The resulting finish is perfectly smooth and ready for paint. The front and rear hatches were fitted with the coamings that will hold the hatches in place. The rotary disk sander that I bought from Lidl is certainly proving to be very useful in shaping small parts at this stage of the construction. I note that it’s back on sale now (Feb 2019) so if you have the opportunity and £30 ….go buy yourself one! The next stage will be to assemble the cabin.

Boston Typhoon by GeoffA Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 23 days ago
👍My build of Frank Hinchcliffes model of Boston Typhoon powered by a cheddar Proteus run by ABS boiler control. A copper feed tank in built into the bows and it will carry enough water to last a good 1 hr in steam. Very heavy needs two people to launch.

The deck planking. by robbob Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 27 days ago
The kit I’m constructing is a pre-production prototype and consequently it does not have the ‘laser etched planking’ feature that has been subsequently introduced in the final production kits on the ‘upper’ deck and the ‘well’ deck. This is of no concern to me because I think I prefer to do my own planking anyway but I do have to do a bit of preparatory ‘laying out’ of the deck pattern to ensure that it’s symmetrical and laid in a pleasing fashion. I have chosen to use 1.6 mm x 9.5 mm obeche hardwood strip-wood (from SLEC) for this with a thin black plasticard caulking between the planks. This is what I did when I constructed the VMW Fire Tender and the result was very effective and visually pleasing. Obeche has a pleasing grain, takes stain very easily and is also considerably cheaper than mahogany which I feel would be far too ‘dark red’ when finally lacquered. Because I wanted an outer curved plank around the hull edge I had to cut this from 1.6mm obeche sheet to the correct shape and width as it would be impossible to bend a strip to this extreme curve. These also needed a section trimmed out to allow the bow gunwales to be positioned correctly. Once both sides were cut and shaped I could then form the ply gunwales to the correct curve by my heating and bending process and glued them down to the deck. I understand that on the production kits these gunwales are now incorporated into the side skins which will make the construction a bit easier. The remaining outer planks on the hull edges were made from straight lengths of obeche but required some easing cuts so that they could be bent to the curve of the hull. Hopefully these cuts will not be too noticeable in the finished deck. When all the edge planks were glued in place I temporarily laid out the obeche planking strips with a thin strip of black plasticard as caulking and all held in place with masking tape. The centre plank was arranged to lie over the centre line from bow to stern. The setting out of the planks in this manner confirmed that the layout worked as intended and so I began fixing down the planking from the centre plank of the hull outwards with a fast bonding superglue and the process proved to be quite quick to complete. The side deck planks were equally straightforward but did require some to be carefully shaped in a tapered fashion at each end to fill the remaining gaps. The rear deck was also planked by working out from the centre plank and thankfully the planking layout matched and followed the bow deck planking perfectly. The surplus plasticard ‘caulking’ was then trimmed flush to the planks with a very sharp chisel and the entire deck rubbed down with my sanding plate until it was all perfectly smooth. For those building this model that don’t feel confident enough to do ‘real planking’ will probably want to make use of the laser etched planking on the ply deck panels to achieve a similar result with very minimal effort, but I quite like the challenge of doing it the hard way and the benefit of a slightly better finish.

Fairmount Alpine by DannyZ Petty Officer   Posted: 29 days ago
[Score: 8/10] 42" Fairmount Alpine Twin Propellors (3 Blade 40mm) Direct Drive Powered by LiPoly (11.1v) 3Amp/h Batteries - Comments: Tug. Twin contra rotating props. Bow Thruster.

Yacht Suppliers by unknowndna Seaman   Posted: 30 days ago
Bowsies are easy to make. I've had DF65 ones break so I 3d print my own. I've also made them out of servo horns for other boats and one guy at our club uses buttons. Not sure how race legal they are, but since I don't race it doesn't matter to me.

Yacht Suppliers by Ianh Lieutenant   Posted: 30 days ago
It is amazing that companies that supply almost RTR Yachts don't think. What comes to mind on Joysway, Thunder Tiger and Kyosho is that it needs 12 Bowsies that's all you get! They should add a few extra screws and Bowsies it literally cents to them. I dropped a bowsie off the bench when I rigged the DF 95 black bowsie, black tiled floor don't go together, found it after about 10 minutes of cussing. One thing Joysway did on the DF 95 was give you about an extra metre of Dyneema. TT and Kyosho I think they must supply it to the exact mm! And no spare Stainless Self Tappers if the yacht needs 12 you get 12.

Billings Smith Rotterdam - bow thruster by theshipscat Seaman   Posted: 1 month ago
Hi, Anybody ever added a working bow thruster to the Billings Smit Rotterdam kit? - decision time is looming!😭