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>> Home > Tags > bow

bow
bow
Plating by hammer Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 day ago
The plating is going essayer with every plate, just a slow job. Finished the garboard strakes & the keel. A brass rod joins the bow. At the rudder post a tube for the rudder stock. No more on plating until it is complete. Unless someone has a question.

Beutiful Tug for sale in CA USA by Brightwork Admiral   Posted: 6 days ago
Tug for sale on CL in California. Love to have it but to far. Lead ballast is integral to the hull. Fire hoses, radar etc function. stem to stern:62 inches, bow: 17.5 inches, height 24 inches. Museum quality https://losangeles.craigslist.org/…/large-s…/6382171440....

Richards 48" Swordsman by olly49 Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 9 days ago
I bought and built my Huntsman back in the late 70's. Decided last year to refurbish her. She is powered by a T600 brushless motor, 2 11.1 v lipos these are positioned midships, x50mm prop, tends to start bow down but when on the plane she looks a beautiful sight. I must say of all the boats I have this is the favorite one.👍

Richards 48" Swordsman by pmdevlin Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 9 days ago
Hi Richard its in the thread titled motor problem, its not a big feature, but I think you are going to be tail heavy. The misconception is, sometimes people say, oh its planning, so must be fast, but in actual fact its not going fast at all, its actually the balancer, or more importantly the centre of gravity being off, making the bow rise. A good starting point will be with all deck clutter etc, and all fittings etc how does it sit in the water👍

CG-40564 by circle43nautical Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 10 days ago
[Score: 9/10] 35"/4500g CG-40564 Capable of 15mph and a runtime of 45mins Twin Propellors (4 Blade 50mm) Direct Drive to a 775 JOHNSON-TYPE 6-12V (4 Blade) Powered by NiMH (8.4v) 3Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through HOBBYWING (15Amps) ESC - Comments: DUMAS 1:14 USCG 40' UTB. REPRESENTING US COAST GUARD UTILITY BOAT CG-40564, WHICH CAPSIZED DURING A RESCUE ATTEMPT ON THE COLUMBIA RIVER BAR ON 17 JAN 1961. HER CREW WAS FORTUNATELY RESCUED. SHE WAS ASSISTING CG-52301, A 52' TYPE F WOODEN MLB, WHICH FOUNDERED WITH THE LOSS OF ALL HANDS. IT REMAINS THE WORST SMALL BOAT RESCUE DISASTER IN COAST GUARD HISTORY. THIS IS AN UNUSUAL SCALE BALSA PLANK-ON, COVERED BY 2 OZ FIBERGLASS. I USED MINWAX POLYURETHANE FOR AN ALTERNATE TO RESIN, WHICH TURNED OUT WELL, AND CAN BE DONE WITH MINIMAL VENTILATION. WITH BIRCH PLY DECK & CABINS, 1/8" SCRIBED SHEATHING COVERS THE DECK BOW TO STERN AND MAHOGANY TRIM LEFTOVER FROM ANOTHER DUMAS KIT IN MY SCALE SHIPYARD. STOCK D/C FITTINGS WITH SOME SUPPLEMENTAL PREMADE AND HANDMADE ITEMS. SHE FEATURES TWIN RABOESCH 4-BLADE WIDE FLUKE WHEELS AND MATCHING RUDDERS; WORKING HATCHES WITH STOWAGE AREA FOR ANCHOR & TOWLINE, LIGHTHOUSE 9V LED NAV LIGHTS AND FLASHING LED LAW ENFORCEMENT BLUE LIGHT (RC CONTROLLED). I'M ADDING A MOUNT FOR A SCALE BROWNING M2 50 CAL THAT I WAS ABLE TO PRODUCE ON MY 3D PRINTER. THAT'S AN ADVENTURE IN ITSELF. THIS WAS MY FIRST REAL PLANK ON BULKHEAD, AND BALSAWOOD CAN BE A LIL TRICKY, BUT WILL ALWAYS BE THE STANDARD OF WHICH I COMPARE ALL MY SUBSEQUENT BUILDS. MY FATHER BUILT RC AIRCRAFT, AND ALWAYS PREACHED THAT YOU SHOULD OVERBUILD IN ORDER TO SURVIVE A CRACK-UP AND FLY ANOTHER DAY! THAT'S MY CREED WITH BOATS. OVERBUILD!!! THANK YOU DAD!

WHITE CLOVER by circle43nautical Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 10 days ago
[Score: 8/10] 35"/3000g WHITE CLOVER Capable of 15mph and a runtime of 60mins Single Propellor (5 Blade 65mm) Direct Drive to a 775 JOHNSON-TYPE FAN-COOLED (5 Blade) Powered by NiMH (8.4v) 3Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through DIMART FAN-COOLED 320A 6-18V (15Amps) ESC - Comments: DUMAS 1:72 TUNA CLIPPER KIT; REDESIGNED & REFITTED TO A RESEARCH VESSEL. BEAUTIFUL MAHOGANY PLANK-ON (DOUBLE-PLANKED ABOVE PLIMSOL LINE & PROTECTED BY MULTIPLE COATS OF MINWAX POLYURETHANE), WITH 3/16" SCRIBED DECK SHEATHING (DECK CAN ACCOMMODATE A SMALL RC HELO, GOOD LUCK WITH THE LANDING) FEATURES RIVABO 5-BLADE WHEEL, HAND MADE RUDDER, BULBOUS BOW & TRAWLING GALLOWS.ONE 1.5V WORKING RADAR ARRAY, LIGHTHOUSE 9V LED NAV LIGHTS & AMBER DECK LIGHTS AND WORKING BRASS STOCKLESS ANCHOR.

ILLINI SPIRIT by circle43nautical Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 10 days ago
[Score: 8/10] 46"/4400g ILLINI SPIRIT Capable of 10mph and a runtime of 60mins Single Propellor (5 Blade 50mm) Direct Drive to a 775 JOHNSON-TYPE FAN-COOLED 6-12V (5 Blade) Powered by NiMH (8.4v) 3Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through DIMART FAN-COOLED 320A 6-18V (15Amps) ESC - Comments: DUMAS 1:96 GREAT LAKES FREIGHTER KIT; GIVEN THE ILLINIWEK MARINE PAINT SCHEME. MY THIRD BOAT TO JOIN THE ILLINIWEK MARINE RC FLEET. DECKED WITH 3/16" BASSWOOD SCRIBED SHEATHING, BOTTOM REINFORCED WITH A 3/8" LAM SPRUCE BOARD (ALSO PROTECTS THE PVC BOTTOM FROM ROCKS & ADDS BUOYANCY). FEATURES A RIVABO 5-BLADE BRASS WHEEL AND A RABOESCH 22MM 7.2V BOW THRUSTER FOR DOCKING/MANEUVERING. LIGHTHOUSE 9V LED NAV LIGHTS AND STATIC BRASS RADAR ARRAYS. NICE PVC SHEETING ON WOOD FRAME KIT, THE ONLY REAL CHALLENGE WAS THE STERN SECTION SHEER CONSTRUCTION, BUT THAT'S WHAT PUTTY'S FOR, RIGHT?

Motor problem by jarvo Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 10 days ago
Hi Richard, the angle is steep to allow the starting flywheel of an i/c motor to clear the keel. This angle was quite steep, but with the motor's power it allowed the hull to run quite fast. Electric motors are a lot smaller so a lower angle of about 15 degrees, will work well, this will give more forward thrust without forcing the bows down wasting power, lifting the stern upwards in the water. Mark

ILLINI NATIVE by circle43nautical Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 10 days ago
[Score: 8/10] 37"/3600g ILLINI NATIVE Capable of 10mph and a runtime of 45mins Twin Propellors (5 Blade 50mm) Direct Drive to a 775 JOHNSON TYPE (5 Blade) Powered by NiMH (8.4v) 3Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through DIMART FAN-COOLED 320A 6-18V (10Amps) ESC - Comments: DUMAS AMERICAN BEAUTY TOWBOAT KIT; GIVEN THE ILLINIWEK MARINE PAINT SCHEME, THE DECK IS COVERED BY 3/16" BASSWOOD SCRIBED SHEATHING PROTECTED BY MINWAX POLYURETHANE. SHE FEATURES FLANKING RUDDERS WITH RIVABO 5-BLADE BRASS WHEELS, TWIN 1.5V WORKING RADAR ARRAYS, TWIN 6V WORKING DECK CAPSTANS, 9V LED NAV LIGHTS WITH AMBER DECK STANDING LIGHTS AND DUAL BRUSHLESS VENT/COOLING FANS ON THE INBOARD SIDE OF THE FUNNELS (FOR THE FUN OF IT). SHE IS THE SECOND ADDITION TO THE ILLINIWEK MARINE RC FLEET SHE'S PUSHING AHEAD A SET OF DUMAS 1:48 RAKE BOW & BOX BARGES ACROSS THE WINDING CARPET RIVER

CHIEF by circle43nautical Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 10 days ago
[Score: 8/10] 22"/1400g CHIEF Capable of 5mph and a runtime of 45mins Twin Propellors (3 Blade 45mm) Direct Drive to a 540 (3 Blade) Powered by NiMH (8.4v) 3Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through HOBBYWING (10Amps) ESC - Comments: VAC-U-BOAT TW200 H.I.P.S. (HIGH IMPACT POLYSTYRENE); KIT CAME COMPLETE WITH ALL RUNNING HARDWARE AND ASSEMBLY COMPONENTS. GREAT KIT FOR BEGINNERS OR YOUNG MODELLERS. COMPLETED IN ABOUT A WEEK OR SO. 1:48 SCALE CONTROLLED BY FLYSKY 4CH XMIT/RCVR. THE FIRST R/C VESSEL IN THE "ILLINIWEK MARINE" FLEET. FEATURES FLANKING RUDDERS, WORKING RADAR ARRAY AND 9V LED NAV LIGHTS AND AMBER STANDING/DECK ILLUMINATION. BTW, THAT'S A DUMAS 1:48 RAKE BOW & BOX BARGE ON HER BOW.

Richards 48" Swordsman by pmdevlin Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 10 days ago
Hi Richard lovely neat clean installation there, makes things so much nicer to work on when it looks like that. I personally feel your batts will be better in the centre section, similar discussion going on with another thread regarding balance, that stern weigh will cause the bow to raise prematurely, no doubt testing will provide the correct answer Paul

Motor problem by pmdevlin Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 12 days ago
Hi Richard, that lead acid is way too big and heavy. I Remember going on hols as a kid, car was loaded up, all family, roofrack, deck chairs, tent and so on, and Dads old Moggie Traveller would barely climb the Welsh hills! Same here, its just dead weight, ideal for a tug etc, no speed required, and ballast needed. This boat wasn't any slouch in its day, As Havelock says, it was originally built as a ic powered model so could stand being heavy. To achieve balance, its a matter of moving things around, not adding, so just move things forward, you will be surprised how the weight increases once you start adding Deck clutter, fittings and so on. Lightweight, is good. Your comment, stood up in the water at half throttle isn't going fast, its just bad weight displacement causing the bow tyo be too high. That setup would never have been that fast, the motor/battery combo will never cause a heavy ply boat to be going that fast its standing on end Couple of things to consider. Your nimhs, how many times have these been cycled, and what sort of charger are you using? A reasonable charger will give the information, if I know what you are using, Ill advise accordingly as you might not be getting the best from these batteries what prop are you on Think of an rc plane (if you fly them its easier) If the cog is too far back, the nose is pitching up, and its almost impossible to control, it almost porpoises in the air, and is very bad. COG is vital on a rc plane, nose heavy is better, only because its more controllable. COG is equally important with a boat, but harder to see the implications, the hull will give us false info, such as if the bow is up its on the plane, no, not necessarily, its not planing due to speed, its just out of balance. Shifting the weight radically will let you see this, sorry for the ramble, Wish you where closer to me I would love to help hands on👍 Ive tried to find a suitable video of my Huntman to display what I'm rambling on about. This video is poor quality, but it displays that boat moving very fast (25mph with on board data logger) but look how flat it is, its planning, as the forward 1/3 of the hull is out of the water, but its not standing on its tail, this is because its balanced. You boat is pretty similar in design to this so whilst you wont want to go this fast, the picture should look the same. This Huntsman weighs 6kg with batteries (lipos, you will NEVER get a nimh or lead acid to do this) and is 4 foot long, so quite a heavy old girl first constructed as an IC model in the early 70's. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e5-YmmElIfk&t=34s and here is a picture of my 3 foot aerokits fireboat, bow up, is it planing, no, its way out of balance, it wasnt actaully going that fast Hope that helps Paul

Motor problem by RichardSReade Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 12 days ago
the first time I sailed the boat with the old motor she was fast and literally stood up in the water on half throttle with just the lead acid battery and no ballast, it was sitting with the back end about half an inch above the underside skins and the bow was well out of the water, I was advised by one of the club members that I needed to trim the boat so it was down at the front but keeping the stern approximately where it was, therfore the lead in the compartment forward of the motor and the battery in the compartment behind. However the 5000mAh and the 3300mAh batteries are not connect and are only held in place with a bit of velcro, also the lead in the front is just shaped to the hull and cannot move, but I can lift it out, so I will see how it runs next week

MV TEAKWOOD by RHBaker Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 13 days ago
There was considerable sanding required around the bow. Once complete, decided to continue and remove all the hull detail not appropriate to the Teakwood. Used an orbital sander for this and it turned out nicely. The detail seems to only be in the gell coat and the actual glass – fibre core was untouched. Suggest do this outside and wear a mask as it creates a lot of dust. Had originally thought of covering the bow with light glass – fibre cloth and stippling it down with resin. After looking at the bow area decided that a coat of glass – fibre resin, applied to the new portion and extending an inch or so into the original hull would be adequate. The wood filler / styrene / steel wire structure is quite rigid and robust. This has turned out nicely and the bow area is now complete. Retained the anchor hawse pipe detail as, much to my surprise, it is in the correct location for the Teakwood. Inspected the hull shell from all angles (this usually any reveals errors or inconsistencies), pertinent dimensions were also checked with a steel rule, protractor and a spirit level. Found nothing amiss. Whilst cannot be absolutely positive the bow entry lines are correct (do not have a lines plan), checked them against a number of similar vessels. These range from the Liberty, through SD 14 to the “City of Toronto” - which is of a similar vintage. They look quite close. Have now completed the major transformation of the Velarde hull into the Teakwood and can move onto the remainder of the build.

Twin Esc/Mixer by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 13 days ago
BTW Ed, I love the mop on the bow 👍 Does the missus use it to clean the bath? 😉😉