Hi Dave_W, later versions of the Elcos, as depicted on the crew box, seem to have been MTB Green. Here some pics of one of the few preserved and restored Elcos. On the 'bow shot' the diagonal planking and reinforcing plate for the towing eye are clearly visible. Cheers Doug 😎
Now we're getting somewhere 👍 To fix your rudder 'guide' (stock shaft) use the same technique as for the prop shaft tube. cosmetics with 2 part filler paste. He he! It's only League Bowling (first match of new season today, I averaged 187 was happy with that😊) and GF's travel wishes that get in the way for me now 😊 Lot to be said for retirement😉 Plug on Neil, cheers Doug 😎
Brilliant idea 👍 Building instructions follow shortly! 😎 Have an idea, but can't do anything today as we have the first match in the new ten pin league bowling season today. Wish me luck, or Gut Holz as my teammates say! (Good Wood😉)
Looking around for next winter's project, found M.V. VELARDE. A nice looking small reefer used mainly on the U.K. - Mediterranean trade. Decided to build the vessel using a Deans Marine glass-fibre hull and ordered one, planning to bring it back to Canada after a September visit to the U.K. The Deans documentation is designed for a kit rather than a a scratch build, I prefer to build as much as possible myself as enjoy the challenge, so started to accumulate the necessary drawings and photos. Looking though reams of pictures and other information began to think this vessel was not quite as attractive as first thought. Too late though, the hull had been ordered and paid for. Encouraged by other modelers who have adapted proprietary glass-fibre hulls to build different models, began to explore the possibility of using the Velarde hull for another vessel. Reviewing a book on cargo liners noticed M.V. TEAKWOOD, built in Sunderland in 1962. She had an attractive and unusual flowing look to her superstructure and rear deck. A comparison of scales and dimensions showed that a 1:96 scale Velarde hull would closely resemble a 1:133 scale Teakwood. Intrigued by the similarities, started to examine the two vessels in more detail. The length/beam ratio is almost identical and, as the Velarde hull is slightly taller, it could be trimmed down into the Teakwood. The Teakwood bow is steeper, the LBP longer and the counter stern fuller. Not sure about the hull sections, but freighters tend to be similar to other type vessels of the same era. Thus felt encouraged enough to further investigate modifying a Velarde hull into the Teakwood. Continued to search for an elusive General Arrangement of the Teakwood to confirm my initial thoughts.
Hi Guys Well today is the day. CG of the boat at 410mm from the bow and it sits in the water on the waterline. Cruised of at a slow pace with camera man taking pics. Up to 1/3 throttle and up on the plane, nice smooth turns with the rudder. Water flying all over the place!! Up to 1/2 throttle and sitting up nice on the plane. The boat handling as smooth as butter, the spray of water from the boat is about the same as one with spray rails. Pop up to full throttle and well pass scale speed, but by this time the camera man was not keeping up to the job. Totally happy with the boat, but still requires a few bits to finish the job. Enjoy the pics and happy boating. Canabus
Had some time over the last couple of days to get the Solent moving along. So, have got all the stringers in which took some time to make sure everything was square at the end. some swearing and cussing did ensue at points trying to get clamps on, nails in whilst trying the aproach of wishing I was an octopus with 8 hands! spent 2-3 hours sanding, planeing and shaping said stringers and formers to get even curves to make life easier when the sheeting started. And so the sheeting starts! My logic says sheet from the keel upwards so that by the time I get to the bulwark and overlap can be sanded before sheeting the deck. Sheet 17 went in nicely requiring just a little balsa fillet on the curve at the bow to get a nice flowing finish. My approach on the prop tunnel was to sheet with 0.8mm ply first, I will then add strength from the inside with a 1/4 balsa layer before a final layer of 0.8mm ply, should be strong! once sheeting is complete, then will be the process of filler where required, sanding, glass clothing, and a whole lot of sanding and priming.
Batteries!, always a problem in the 50s on "paper round" money, used to cadge,"borrow" or steal batteries for our boats.Used to be able to buy a cheap kit and even a cheap Japanese motor (coupled to the prop shaft with bicycle valve tubing) but it would be unused for weeks until I could afford a battery, and then they did not last long.Used to borrow batts from my dads bike lamps,my grannies gas stove lighter and the door bell!.Also use to be able to remove cells from the "winner 120" batteries from my dads sky queen radio as the HV cells used to discharge first.This was the downfall of glowplug motors,we could start them at home but on getting to the pool the tall 1.5v battery would be flat.My dad showed me how to locate good cells on duff car batteries by putting a load on them and measuring the voltage across each cell,we then emptied the acid out into mums washing up bowl and sawed the good cells out,refilling them with acid filtered through a handkerchief!,this worked a treat for starting glow motors but my hankie and the pocket I kept it in suffered!I eventually sorted the power problem by using a clockwork motor removed from the family gramamphone to fit an autochanger.
HI Mate, I think you might be ambitious with the 1.5mm ply, could be too stiff to go round the corners, 1mm, would be better. As you are not planking, I would go for light glass cloth on the outer hull just for protection, small rocks or screws sticking out from a landing stage or bumps and bangs in the workshop, the glass would help to protect the hull. Lifeboats have a superb gloss, blemish free surface, so plenty of elbow grease and buckets of primer. For the topcoats, could i suggest a spray gun, not rattle cans, just for the quality of finnish, also by the time you have bought all the cans, a reasonable spray gun will work out far cheaper, particularly if you get your paint from a pro shop supplies, sandpaper, primer, filler and top colours are all far cheaper. Looking forward to the update on your build. Mark
Hi Skydive, welcome to the forum and the world of model boats, the saving grace of boats is they rarely crash and if the worst happens they are usually easy to recover, like your choice of model, the solent has been a popular model for many years, and with a little skill makes a sweet model. Carefull with the dining room table, war will breakout quickly. Your have made a great start with the keel, bow and stern section, are you looking to plank the hull or use the patterns for the ply panels? Regards Mark
[Score: 8/10] 47" HMS Nelson Capable of 2mph and a runtime of 60mins Twin Propellors (3 Blade 25mm) Direct Drive Powered by NiCad (7.2v) Batteries - Comments: Scratch built using Admiralty drawings from Greenwich and miscellaneous photos. to 1/192 scale Hull carved from basswood as are boats. Guns turned in brass in basswood turrets. Rigging steel guitar strings. Sails well. In rough seas tends to ship it green over bow.
About 10 years old, currently with a DC motor setup Hectoperm but complete base plate can be swapped for a 2 cylinder cheddar models Proteus boiler and steam plant. With ABC boiler control. Lovely detailed model, cruses well on 4 Lead acid batteries in parallel lots of power from the MARXX motor and 60 ~ 70mm I forget, 4 blade brass prop. Actually needs more weight in the back already 4 lumps of lead in the back and some plates of stainless steel. When it gets moving the bow wave is huge. 😁
Hi Norm, she had all sorts of planes at one time or another, including Swordfish, Fulmar, Barracuda, Seafire and Grumman Avengers. So whatever you give her it's right 👍 Attached some more pics, with detail of the foredeck, starboard quarter (stern), starboard midships and bow and aft deck starboard showing antenna mast, arrester cable pulley and much more. 😉 Happy building Doug 😎 PS The big 'bean can' forward of the antenna mast looks to me like your searchlight 😉
Hi Dave, forgot to mention that Marin tested the calculations and computer simulations with scale models in their 250m test tank, with good agreement. Later full size measurements in sea states 5 and 6, with variable winds and drift angles also gave good agreement. One important point though; I misread a paragraph🤔 The actual distance prop tips to rudder leading edge was 1 prop radius!! So for my Sea Scout with a 30 or 35mm prop my 17mm spacing is about right 😊 Most of the tests were actually to determine the rudder's lateral position relative to the prop shaft on multi-shaft designs and vertical position relative to hull and prop diameter. Vertical position was determined as; If possible close to the hull, in the lamina flow region and 'covering the upper 47% of the prop diameter'. In this position the effects of the drift angle in a fast turn (e.g. caused by wind at an angle to the bow and the turning of the ship itself, 'skidding') are reduced to practically zero. If the rudder covers the lower half of the prop diameter it is affected by transverse water flow across the stern, reducing manoeuvrability and increasing rudder torque and stock loading! So again Sea Scout is about right 😊 The Aerokits designers knew their stuff, or were just plain lucky! For the shaft alignment I use the balsa wedges for fine adjustments then epoxy everything in place when the ammeter tells me all is OK. Filler and cosmetic to finish off. Cheers Doug 😎
Thanks, yet again. I'll keep them as I have shown, but will extend the wire to the edge of the flight deck. Your pic showing them lifted on rising posts fits perfectly. She is actually nearing completion. Main job is all the rigging and aerials. Am making twin bofors to go in front of bridge. Now have searchlight on Port bow platform. Scale about four foot six diameter.
hi Richard, certainly a "Huntsman", just finished refurbishing one myself. Replanked the deck curving the planking around the bows was a real challenge, but three weeks later it was well worth it. Good luck with yours