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>> Home > Tags > brass prop

brass prop
prop shaft
prop tube
propshaft alignment
racing prop
brass sleeve
brass tube
brass prop
1960S Taycol electric motor by CB90 Lieutenant   Posted: 9 days ago
Could try general suppression capacitors arrangement, I have also seen the can or frame of a motor connected to earth via a wire soldered to the brass propshaft. You could shield the motor by enclosing it in a metal box, be careful not to short circuit anything, similar to Faraday cage .

Devil in the detail! by Skydive130 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 9 days ago
Hi Doug, Looking at my rudders comparing them to some pics I’ve found online, my rudders are too big and therefore I will reduce them in size, no biggie, 10 minutes work should see that done. Back to the struts. I would have made them from brass, however as my propshafts are in brass tubes for the whole length, I feel that the plastic versions I’ve made should be ok for aesthetics as the brass tubes seem rigid enough, hopefully no chance of any whip? I’m planning on running this on 2S lipo to give a scale speed, all depends what the watt meters says when I test the motors with props in water. Having the option to go to 3S if needed. I don’t plan on having a great deal of rudder throw and will programme in some expo to soften the rudders throw. Of course, if needed, I am more than happy to make adjustments and incorporate recommendations as given by the lovely people on this forum. It’s still a learning curve for me as I bring 45 years of aircraft experience over to the boat world! If anyone requires any aircraft advice, I’m your man!

Devil in the detail! by Skydive130 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 9 days ago
You done even get a sheet of brass in the kit, you have to buy their expensive geared running gear set to get the prop shafts, gears and struts etc, sod that, make own for pennies!

Wanted 4 bladed brass propeller by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 10 days ago
Hallo Lee, attached is the Raboesch prop catalogue for reference. There are several 4 blade series with differing blade shapes. Most are available from various UK sources, including Cornwall Model Boats. Cheers Doug 😎

Wanted 4 bladed brass propeller by dragon Commander   Posted: 11 days ago
Thanks Doug I was looking for that email address and couldn't find it. Lee I hope you get your propellers.

Wanted 4 bladed brass propeller by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 11 days ago
Hi Mark, I think you mean Simon! Protean Design Simon Higgins-Protean Design 01789 565228, 0797 7193759 Cheers Doug 😎

Wanted 4 bladed brass propeller by jarvo Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 12 days ago
Propshop has gone but Stephen is producing his props from home, there is a link to his address but i can find it at the moment Mark

Wanted 4 bladed brass propeller by Smiffy Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 12 days ago
Cornwall Model Boats have 55mm M4 four bladed brass by Raboesch in both right hand and left hand

Wanted 4 bladed brass propeller by Kipper Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 12 days ago
Have you tried 'Marks Model Boat Bits' ?

Wanted 4 bladed brass propeller by Vickers1979 Lieutenant   Posted: 13 days ago
Hi all am hoping someone might have a pair I’m after 4 bladed brass propeller 55m on a m4 thread seem to be hard to sauce in pairs now the prop shop gone. Lee

Amsterdam by jugge Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 14 days ago
Hi Jarvo and all guys , Thanks for all your response i have a 12 v Graupner 700 bb turbo and 2 lead acid 12 v battery and a 70 mm brass prop 4 blade

Amsterdam by jarvo Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 15 days ago
I see that you have modified her to her later state, no lifeboats and the large towing winch on the rear deck. What motor does yours have? Mine is running a 24v motor with a 90mm brass prop. Mark

Graupner Elke HF 408 by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 29 days ago
Hi Allen Mabuchi no longer list details of your motor and as it is from an ex flyer chances are it has been cooked at some time in its life. I agree it is not easy to check for shorts but a reasonable meter will show any major problems. Your battery sounds fine. Pitch is often marked on the props near the boss but an explanation I have seen on the web: Pitch: theoretical distance the prop travels on each rotation. This is theoretical because water is not a solid medium and the prop slips. 10 to 30% is normal, the lower numbers are found only on hi-performance props, specially prepared. Constant Pitch: the pitch is the same across the entire propeller's working surface, or blade face. Progressive Pitch: the pitch is lower at the leading edge and increases progressively along the trailing edge. Consider a prop that runs in a liquid media with a constant pitch, the tip of the prop rotates faster than the hub. Conversely, if the angle at the tip is lower, the water speed on all prop surfaces will be the same. In this case, the performance is far better. Progressive pitch props offer better planning performance. So if you were to get some graph paper or paper with 1mm markings and set the prop on a shaft over the paper and measure the start point then rotate thro 360deg and measure the finish point this will give you the theoretical pitch. Over the years I have amassed a fair number of props and usually try various before I decide on the best for the model. Try what you have with the 6v battery (looks just right for the model) and see how it sails. From experience I know that this type of model is difficult to get going and all our club models have coarse pitch brass props. Speed will depend on the motor but with a geared motor you should be able to reduce the revs to give scale speed. I look forward to hearing how you progress in a couple of weeks.

Graupner Elke HF 408 by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 29 days ago
Hi Allen I did wonder if it was an ex flyer type as it had the gearbox. The markings can help but not possibly in this case. The other major supplier was Johnson but I can't find your TD224. I suspect this will be a high current fast rev motor probably 12v max. To work with your model I think you will be well advised to follow Doug's suggestion and fit a 6v battery. If you can see the windings inside the motor case and they are thick and few then it is a fast and high current motor. The prop looks like a Graupner and is fine pitch and similar models in my club have a nice brass prop of fairly coarse pitch to give a good slow scale speed. The gearbox will allow you to fit a brass prop of similar dimensions to yours. Initially I agree with Doug though, just pop it in the water and see how it performs. With your luck you will probably source a suitable prop from the car boot sales! Finally As the motor is old it could have shorted windings, in which case it's going to get hot. If you have a good multimeter you can check for low resistance between the case and one of the motor connectors. Use the highest Ohms setting you have and rotate the motor shaft a full revolution, repeat with progressively lower Ohms settings. You should have good insulation between the windings and the case, if you are getting any ohm readings chances are there are shorted windings on the armature and the motor is terminal.

Test fit the Rudder! by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Hi Ed I notice that your prop shaft sticks out from the hull which may be why the prop is so near the rudder. I treat all plans as guidance notes and trial fit the parts before final fixing. I believe we have all been in your position at some time or another! I agree with the advice already given and believe a thin washer and thinned locknut would give you the clearance you need. This isn't a speed boat so there will not be much stress on the set up but my preference would be brass, its easy to file and won't rust. I have in the past reworked the propeller boss but its not really a good idea, and does tend to spoil the looks.