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>> Home > Tags > brass prop

brass prop
prop shaft
prop tube
propshaft alignment
racing prop
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brass tube
brass prop
Rudders and Propellers by teejay Commander   Posted: 9 days ago
Hi all for the second blog report on the schnellboot I am going to go over the rudder a propeller shaft assembly in more detail. The first stage was to make the rudders which were made of brass ,and having taken note of what has been said about the increase in size needed for the kit by other members I have increased the size of the rudders by 50% so that they have more effect and hopefully the boat will be more agile .I fitted 3mm treaded rod on to the rudder and in a 4mm flanged tube to reinforce the brass rod. The second stage was to make and fit 5mm flanged tube in the location for the rudders in the boat, these were made to be above the water line and will be sealed in place to reduce the possibility of leaks. These were fitted to a rudder platform inside the boat which was fitted to the kit moulding for the rubbing strip that runs the length on the boat and secured by making resin blocks which were fitted with computer extension nuts. which were then superglue in place to secure the rudder platform. The rudders were then fitted in place and held in position with the tiller collars which were made from 8mm rod and fitted the tiller arms and locked in place with 3mm computer screws and ni-lock nuts, a connecting plate was then fitted to connect the three tillers together, I also fitted rubberised washers to seal the rudder tubes. The third stage was to make the propeller supports. The centre support was a direct copy of the kit part made of brass and fitted to the kit with a plate and screws (this plate and the rudder plate were made from galvanised steel) and will sealed with resin after the I test the boat for leaks. The port and starboard supports were made by taking the kit parts and cutting them in have along the joint line or mould seam this gave me a template ,which I used to make cross-section segments but I did alter the template by increasing the boss diameter to 10mm and extending the support legs so that the finished support could be fitted through the hull (the picture of these show the mk1 version where I forgot to allow for the 4mm prop shaft which has a 6mm tube) any way the boss of these segments were drilled out with a 7mm drill and a length of 7mm brass tube fitted through the boss to assemble the segments, all of which were coated in soldering flux at this stage of the assembly which were riveted at both ends to hold it all together during soldering, after soldering the supports were then filed to the size and shape to resemble the kit parts as close as possible and fitted to the hull using a superglue and talcum powder mix and then I cast resin around the extensions to secure the prop supports in place. The fourth stage is the propeller shaft housing for the centre propeller housing I place a brass rod in a plastic straw and place in position in hull and using resin I sealed the hull with the rod in place this gave me a pilot hole for the centre prop shaft after I removed the brass rod. For the port and starboard shafts I used the kit parts which had hole place when assembled, this when I reinforced the housings ,the centre housing I glue 2mm of plasticard on each side and for the port and starboard I made a brass tube shroud which covered the housings which left gaps between the kit part and the brass which was filled by casting resin in the gap this increased the diameter to 10 mm so that there were little chance of breaking throw with the drill and finished these off by fill-in the outside with body filler and sanded to shape and finish . I then drilled through the pilot hole in the housings using very long extended drills and a wheel brace ( if I had use a power drill the heat would have melted the plastic of the kit and may have caused problems) I drill the shaft housings out 6mm them filed them out with 6mm file so that I could insert a length of 6mm brass tube. After all this was done I fitted a flanged bush made from 7mm tube and 2mm brass plate turned to 11mm to the ends or the propeller shaft housings. And now it is time I must ask for some help could anyone advise me on the length of propeller shafts, I know I can use a 300mm shaft for the centre shaft, but port and starboard will have to be longer. and I also need advice on selecting the motors, I want to use 4mm prop shaft with 35mm propellers. Any opinions welcome.

1-35 Scale Schenllboot By TeeJay by teejay Commander   Posted: 9 days ago
Hi all this is my first blog, last year I post my intention to do a project about an RAF D boat that my Father served on and as a precursor to that build That I was going to do this S/E boat as the hull design is shared by both, and as plastic kit modeller the kit great the first stage was to put together the decks and superstructure as normal, with the exception of all the bits that would be easily broken as most kit aircraft modellers aerials and guns tend to brake ,so long ago I got into the habit of making these out brass rod or bar using a mini drill and a set of needle files, holding the drill in my left hand and the files in my right, when started this I saw the number of stanches I needed so I came across this little beauty a mini bead lathe it is a great bit of kit and not expensive less than £50 and plenty of types and accessories available so all the stanches aerials hand rails, gun rails, horn, and some of the components for the rudder and tiller were made on this lathe. so good time being had in my first radio control boat. the next post will show all the parts for the rudder/tiller setup ( I have reposted blog because I think I did not do it properly first time round)

Taycol Supemarine Resurrection by Colin H. Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 23 days ago
Well Doug, have been to Ludlow today and saw a Sea Queen on the River, it was powered by a Supermarine, driving a 50mm x 50mm brass prop. Power supply was 12v 7ah sla using a 30 amp. esc. It looked fantastic on the water, even against the current it was moving ahead with full power. If my sea commander goes that well I'll be as happy as a dog with 2 tails. Cheers Colin.

Taycol supermarine, to which prop. by Colin H. Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 29 days ago
As I intend to fit my supermarine, after Doug has finished his magic, into a vintage Aerokits Sea Commander, what prop would be best, if I am using a 12v 7ah sla battery. I have available 2.5 inch 4 blade brass prop, 2 inch 3 blade brass, and various plastic 2 or 3 bade, in 30-35-40&45mm. Which would be the correct one to use. Any thoughts would be much appreciated, cheers Colin.

Launch ELAINE, by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Keep you outta mischief won' it Colin! 😉 I like the fine adjustment of those burners. Found 'em great for soldering oiler pipes to brass prop tubes- WITHOUT setting fire to the boat 😲 Phew!! Reckon it'll cope with your motor no sweat - YOU might though😁😁 Have heard Santa's coming early this year 😉 He must have a new E-Sled 😁 Now back to the fish cutter gear box!! Cheers, Doug 😎

'The Stripper' by NPJ Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
It seems that the proper procedure for fixing the leak and then moving on to “the good stuff” is to strip all the paint off and see what we have. So the heat gun has been obtained ( I already had the fire extinguisher..) as amongst other reasons there would be less dust. Time for a few tentative steps. Now at this point I am not only well out of my comfort zone, but up to my knees in my “slough of despond”………………………. After all, I bought a boat to sail this month and so far I have drilled holes in it and am now about to set it alight! First image shows efforts with lower heat and using the tools supplied and the next two show temperature taken up to 450 degrees c and a ¾ inch chisel used to remove paint. A much better outcome. Now who suggested that would be the answer I wonder??? 45 minutes spent to get this far and although I did remove the plastic props ( being replaced by brass anyway) I wondered if I should remove prop shafts? I have used a bit of a deflector to reduce the heat anyway. On the final images, I wonder whether I am down far enough to start sanding or to go further. Now that I have started I hope to complete at least the general stripping tomorrow. TTFN. NPJ

Chinese props by figtree7nts Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
All of this over props! I'm glad I use scaled brass props. For my Tugs! I don't need sharp edges for them! If you know there's a possible danger in sharping the prop. You do so at your own risk! Stay away from beryllium props.... Cheers, Ed

Chinese props by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Quote from rcgroups forum- "Yep, beryllium-copper in many racing props, like Octura's. No problem for "scale" brass/bronze props. " Seems only to be a problem for the extreme racing performance guys! Conclusion: Buy European!👍

Chinese props by marky Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
dont know if this is a sales pitch to make them sound sexy as the element is used on things like the space shuttle and missile technology its also used in industrial spotwelder electrodes where it is alloyed with copper ,it is a carcinogenic and used to be called sweet metal due to the sweet taste if injected through taste ,personally I would just avoid it and purchase normal brass props .cheers Marky

Chinese props by CB90 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago "Downside to metal props is the fact they need to be balanced and sharpened, which is a lot of work and not without health issues due to the beryllium used in some brass alloys. Berillium is highly toxic, read up on the stuff and take the appropriate measures." and I know you cannot trust all you read on the internet, but better safe than sorry!

Chinese props by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi CB, Where on earth did you get that from? Can you give me a URL link? Brass is basically a copper - zinc alloy anyway. Agreed beryllium is toxic but over 45 years in electronics I've only ever run across it in various RF hi-power transistors types. Never in a brass alloy. Academic for me as I buy my brass props from Raboesch in Holland. They are already balanced and polished anyway!😊 'Chinese' manufacturers not subject to the much maligned EU regulations huh!? Cheers, Doug 😎 BTW People: IF by remote chance your props do contain beryllium DO NOT WORK ON THEM AT ALL. Dispose of them pronto at your local hazardous substances recycling depot. Above all do not sand or grind them. It's the beryllium oxide dust that's dangerous, that's why safe disposal of busted florescent lamps and the old first generation 'Energy saving bulbs' is also mandatory. YHBW!

Brass bashin' Chris Craft deck fittings... by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
I was just searching for a model car pattern I made months ago for some mods and I found all the lovely etchings I'd done years ago, pre computer, for Riva and Chris-Craft models. These two pics show two brass patterns for the Riva vents and two of the white metal cast vents, one polished about 20 years ago, one done just now, to show that a well burnished casting will stay looking chrome even without lacquer. Then the two Chris Craft tread plates I had the great, good forethought to draw when I found I had a bit of space on the Riva fret. They are perfect, as are the Chris-Craft side flashes and all the Riva badges, even though they were done from hand drawn artwork, proving that Vector images are NOT essential as the pootah people will tell you. I shall mount these two on the typically wedge shaped base and have them cast. I also found a FUEL engraved cap cover which will go on my Chris-Craft filler. It happens to be bang on size wise! I'm cock ahoop! I knew I had these, but had no idea where to start looking. Thanks Mel for getting me started on the search for your Tecno F2 car, but sorry, couldn't find that devil. I have made some more Vincent bits, been to son's to play on his new steering wheel and pedals racing game ( I managed a whole lap of the proper Silverstone in a Lotus 25!) and dined out with the lady wife. What a great day. Martin

Range Safety Launch? by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Evenin' Neville, Yes go for 3 blade cast (not soldered) brass props, one LH, one RH. Jury is still out on which should be port and which starboard😉 Size I'm not sure of, my 28" twin shaft PTB has 35mm props, which I may reduce depending on the sea trial results, so I'd guess your 44" boat may need something larger, perhaps 40-42mm? Hope the drivers of larger Fireboats and such pick this up and can advise! All the best, Doug 😎

Deans Robert E. Perry Libertyship by Mikep Commander   Posted: 2 months ago
Started building Deans Marine Libertyship Robert E. Perry finished Lenth 54 1/2” beam 7 1/2” weight 35 lbs. Power is Deans motor Falcon 3671 6 volt 1500rpm 3.19mm shaft and prop 147-18 brass propeller 50-L-4bl-M4. Kit is very nicely done all fittings and hardware are included with the kit. The hull is detailed and I have lined the inside of the hull with 2 x 2 oz. fiberglass cloth and resin to give it more rigidity. I have installed the motor and prop shaft along with the rudder which I replaced since the kit supplied rudder was cast resin and only had a 3/32 dia shaft, I’m sure it would work fine but felt better with something a little more substantial. Added 5 lbs of ballast I used shot and installed sub floor in hull. Equipment installation and deck fitting, added 1/8” plywood as deck and styrene on top.

Martin's Taycol Conversion Boards by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
Fantastic stuff, Doug. That gizmo on the right with 0.05 and 6.0. Is that Amps and volts? Is that really just 0.05 amps with the motor running?! Does that really mean just 0.3 watts? Would the model even move? Ah, but then that's off load, innit? Stick a 35mm 3 blader on it and what would it draw in the wet stuff, I wonder? OK, I'll get a bloomin watt meter. Least I can do I suppose Impressive on the videos, too. Ain't it quiet? My Taycols growl at me, but then so does the Mrs.! I'm gittin' excited now. You have to need some brass bashing, so I can thank you properly for all the work. Cheers, Martin