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>> Home > Tags > brass prop

brass prop
prop
prop shaft
prop tube
propeller
propshaft
propshaft alignment
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racing prop
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brass tube
brass prop
Fittings & Detail Parts by pittsfieldpete Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 18 hours ago
Thanks, Doug. I’m glad I posted my erroneous method for calculating scale speeds, otherwise I wouldn’t have learned the correct way to do it. Looks like I’ll be eating crow for dinner tonight with humble pie for dessert. It just shows how much I have to learn. I never would have guessed that the prop tubes in our HE tugs are plastic. At first it struck me as a poor material for the job, but from another perspective I guess it’s not so bad. At least the shafts themselves are metal & there’s a nice set of brass counter-rotating props on the business end. By the way...what’s a moorhen?

Fire Boat (crash tender) colours... by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 days ago
Evenin' Martin, just a quick thought before I hit the hay! For the non slip deck paint why don't you cover the deck with a suitable wet and dry paper? 😉 With a bit of luck you might even find some wet n dry the right shade of grey!! Don't know the size / scale you are building but maybe around 120 / 240 would do! Cut to fit, glue it down with a spray glue, I found some in the 'Creative Corner' of a garden centre near me. Also a good source of fine gauge steel, brass, copper, gold and silver wire and nylon thread, and anchor chains😉😊 Then seal with a spray-on flat sealer or varnish, then spray a satin colour you want. Humbrol H129 might be a good substitute for 'Cerrux Deck Grey'. See Model Boat Mayhem for references to Cerrux Grey 😉 I agree the cabin sides are a much lighter shade of grey, almost white. Just ripped all the innards and deck fittings off my PTB. Just got the bare hull and shaft tubes left. Just havin' a wee dram then up the 'apples and pears to Bedfordshire' before I get tempted to sand and paint through the night. It happens sometimes 😲 G'night all, cheers Doug 😎 ZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZ

David Metcalfs Waveney - "The Scout" by Flack Admiral   Posted: 5 days ago
For sale is my 1/12th scale model of the Waveney Lifeboat - "The Scout" Kit produced by David Metcalf. Built to a good standard with an array of working features: Working radar controlled through a voltage reducer Navigation lights, mast lights, front and rear searchlights, flashing blue light and well lights all controlled by an Action Electronics P62 quad switcher. The flashing effect of the blue light is controlled by an Action ElectronicsP73 multi flasher. Powered by two Turnigy 3542/5 1250kv brushless outrunners controlled by two Fusion Hawk 60amp electronic speeed controllers. Fitted with Raboesch propshafts and 3 bladed brass left and right handed propellors. Batteries and radios are not included in the sale. The model is available for pick up only with cash on collection from Stafford ST16 which is approximately 1/2 mile from Junction 14 of the M6 motorway. Price £700 ovno

It's a sad day!. by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 29 days ago
Yep, built mine with my Dad, a 34" Crash Tender. We used the then new PVA glue and to be honest, 54 years later it still holds well and is waterproof. I really must finish it some day! I confess I never had an IC engine in a boat, but I've always had an ED Racer with water jacket and big brass flywheel. Still have it on my shelf with others, but I could never get the buggers to start! So Dad made sure the Crash Tender had a good electric motor when he spoiled me with it all for my 11th Christmas. I had REP single channel R/C and a Taycol Supermarine motor and Taycol coupling. That's what's in it and will stay in it. Alas the R/C gear was stolen. I could replicate the case, but there just ain't the time for all these things, so an old Mini Hex 1970s Propo set will go in it as a classic curio. I used it for years with the REP on the oyster ponds at Paglesham. Left, centre, right, centre, wiggle right, wiggle right and so on. The Taycol ate batteries! Martin

Rudders and propeller by teejay Lieutenant   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi all for the second blog report on the schenllboot I am going to go over the rudder an propeller shaft assembly in more detail. The first stage was to make the rudders which were made of brass ,and having taken note of what has been said about the increase in size needed for the kit by other members I have increased the size of the rudders by 50% so that they have more effect and hopefully the boat will be more agile .I fitted 3mm treaded rod on to the rudder and in a 4mm flanged tube to reinforce the brass rod. The second stage was to make and fit 5mm flanged tube in the location for the rudders in the boat , these were made to be above the water line and will be sealed in place to reduce the possibility of leaks. These were fitted to a rudder platform inside the boat which was fitted to the kit moulding for the rubbing strip that runs the length on the boat and secured by making resin blocks which were fitted with computer extension nuts .which were then superglue in place to secure the rudder platform. The rudders were then fitted in place and held in position with the tiller collars which were made from 8mm rod and fitted the tiller arms and locked in place with 3mm computer screws and ni-lock nuts, a connecting plate was then fitted to connect the three tillers together, I also fitted rubberised washers to seal the rudder tubes. The third stage was to make the propeller supports. The centre support was a direct copy of the kit part made of brass and fitted to the kit with a plate and screws (this plate and the rudder plate were made from galvanised steel)and will sealed with resin after the I test the boat for leaks. The port and starboard supports were made by taking the kit parts and cutting them in have along the joint line or mould seam this gave me a template ,which I used to make cross-section segments but I did alter the template by increasing the boss diameter to 10mm and extending the support legs so that the finished support could be fitted through the hull (the picture of these show the mk1 version where I forgot to allow for the 4mm prop shaft which has a 6mm tube) any way the boss of these segments were drilled out with a 7mm drill and a length of 7mm brass tube fitted through the boss to assemble the segments, all of which were coated in soldering flux at this stage of the assembly which were riveted at both ends to hold it all together during soldering, after soldering the supports were then filed to the size and shape to resemble the kit parts as close as possible and fitted to the hull using a superglue and talcum power mix and then I cast resin around the extensions to secure the prop supports in place. The forth stage is the propeller shaft housing for the centre propeller housing I place a brass rod in a plastic straw and place in position in hull and using resin I sealed the hull with the rod in place this gave me a pilot hole for the centre prop shaft after I removed the brass rod. For the port and starboard shafts I used the kit parts which had hole place when assembled, this when I reinforced the housings ,the centre housing I glue 2mm of plasticard on each side and for the port and starboard I made a brass tube shroud which covered the housings which left gaps between the kit part and the brass which was filled by casting resin in the gap this increased the diameter to 10 mm so that there were little chance of breaking throw with the drill and finished these off by fill-in the outside with body filler and sanded to shape and finish . I then drilled through the pilot hole in the housings using very long extended drills and a wheel brace ( if I had use a power drill the heat would have melted the plastic of the kit and may have caused problems) I drill the shaft housings out 6mm them filed them out with 6mm file so that I could insert a length of 6mm brass tube. After all this was done I fitted a flanged bush made from 7mm tube and 2mm brass plate turned to 11mm to the ends or the propeller shaft housings. And now it is time I have to ask for some help could any one advise me on the length of propeller shafts , I know I can use a 300mm shaft for the centre shaft but port and starboard will have to be longer . and I also need advice on selecting the motors , I want to use 4mm prop shaft with 35mm propellers. Any opinions welcome.

Bristol pilot cutter mascotte by kmbcsecretary Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
The rudder assembly was made using a 200mm prop shaft squared of on the lower 3/4 of the shaft to allow for secure fixing for the rudder made from three layers of 4mm ply. The rudder was fixed to the shaft using 2ton epoxy and held in place with three pieces of brass strip which are bolted through the rudder The prop tube bearings were cut of the ends and fixed into the hull for the rudder shaft , I have also installed rubber o rings to insure no water can come in through the rudder posts.

AL Khubar 2 by dragon Captain   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi As seen in my build blog list of items fitted. 2 MFA Geared 6-1 Motors. 2 Aqua power 128 FNR Speed controllers. Brass props. Bow thruster. Brass Korts. Sound unit. Horn. Lights. all in working order. Sailed very well yesterday at Owls pond. In good working order sold as seen with no returns too detailed to pack collection only please. £300 ovno. Any Question please ask. Plans and instructions also.

Smit Amsterdam by Donnieboy Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
[Score: 8/10] Twin Propellors (4 Blade) Direct Drive to a 2-550 motors (4 Blade) Powered by Lead Acid (6v) 10Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through 50amp ESC - Comments: This is a Graupner Premium Line.I wasn't happy with the universals and plastic 3 bladed props.Replaced the universals and changed props to 4 bladed brass.Also changed the prop shaft to a threaded 4mm shaft which I happened to have in my spares.She runs a lot better now with these changes.Still to come is lighting and sound.

1960S Taycol electric motor by CB90 Commander   Posted: 3 months ago
Could try general suppression capacitors arrangement, I have also seen the can or frame of a motor connected to earth via a wire soldered to the brass propshaft. You could shield the motor by enclosing it in a metal box, be careful not to short circuit anything, similar to Faraday cage .

Devil in the detail! by Skydive130 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
Hi Doug, Looking at my rudders comparing them to some pics I’ve found online, my rudders are too big and therefore I will reduce them in size, no biggie, 10 minutes work should see that done. Back to the struts. I would have made them from brass, however as my propshafts are in brass tubes for the whole length, I feel that the plastic versions I’ve made should be ok for aesthetics as the brass tubes seem rigid enough, hopefully no chance of any whip? I’m planning on running this on 2S lipo to give a scale speed, all depends what the watt meters says when I test the motors with props in water. Having the option to go to 3S if needed. I don’t plan on having a great deal of rudder throw and will programme in some expo to soften the rudders throw. Of course, if needed, I am more than happy to make adjustments and incorporate recommendations as given by the lovely people on this forum. It’s still a learning curve for me as I bring 45 years of aircraft experience over to the boat world! If anyone requires any aircraft advice, I’m your man!

Devil in the detail! by Skydive130 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
You done even get a sheet of brass in the kit, you have to buy their expensive geared running gear set to get the prop shafts, gears and struts etc, sod that, make own for pennies!

Wanted 4 bladed brass propeller by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
Hallo Lee, attached is the Raboesch prop catalogue for reference. There are several 4 blade series with differing blade shapes. Most are available from various UK sources, including Cornwall Model Boats. Cheers Doug 😎

Wanted 4 bladed brass propeller by dragon Captain   Posted: 3 months ago
Thanks Doug I was looking for that email address and couldn't find it. Lee I hope you get your propellers.

Wanted 4 bladed brass propeller by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
Hi Mark, I think you mean Simon! Protean Design Simon Higgins-Protean Design 01789 565228, 0797 7193759 simonhiggins@btinternet.com Cheers Doug 😎

Wanted 4 bladed brass propeller by jarvo Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
Propshop has gone but Stephen is producing his props from home, there is a link to his address but i can find it at the moment Mark